Color Theory

Color Theory For Hair

Law of ColorContrasting Colors

Warm, Cool, & Contributing PigmentLevels

Action of Hair ColorEvery Day Problems

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Law of Color: Primary Colors

Primary Colors: Red, Yellow, Blue: Colors that cannot be made by mixing.



Law of Color: Secondary Colors

Secondary Colors: Green, Violet, Orange: Colors thatare created by mixing equal portions of 2 primary colors.



Law of Color: Tertiary Colors

Tertiary Colors: Red Orange, Yellow Orange, Blue Violet, Olive, Red Violet, Orange Red, Gold. Colors created by mixing equal amounts of primary and secondary colors.

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Complimentary & Contrasting or Neutralizing (same meaning)

Complimentary Colors are the colors that are directly across each other on the color wheel.

Red/Green



Complimentary Colors mixed together equally will always produce a very drab brown color.

Yellow/Violet




Complimentary Colors are used to neutralize unwanted brassy tones.

Blue/Orange


Color Levels & Tone

Warm or CoolAll natural hair color has an underlying pigment of red, yellow, and orange. As a cosmetologist you will need to familiarize yourself with the warm colors of each hair levelto determine the correct formula for correcting unwantedbrassiness and yellow tones.

Each hair color pigment needs a specific cool color to Neutralize or enhance the underlying warm pigment.

Warm Warm = Red, Orange, YellowCool Cool = Green, Violet, Blue



Levels

Level from 1 to 11, 1 being Black and 11 being pale Blonde.



Chemical Action of Hair Color



Every Day Problems w/Color

PROBLEM: Red Problem 1: Red colors go to purple or mahogany. CAUSE: This is usually caused by the reaction of the patron’s hair to the

color used. SOLUTION: Add a small amount of a gold color into the formula

(approximately ½ ounce gold tone 1 ½ of the red)

PROBLEM: Red Problem 2: Red colors are not holding on the ends. CAUSE: Ends are too porous due to permanent waving, over bleaching, or

sun bleaching. SOLUTION: Apply a red or red-gold *FILLER to the ends for 5 to 10

minutes. Blot off filler. If the color is not sufficient then reapply. When the desired shade is reached, apply the red formula you selected in the usual manner.

A FILLER SHOULD ALWAYS BE USED ON PREVIOUS COLORED HAIR TO PREVENT COLOR DEMARCATION. A filler helps to even out porosity so the color covers more evenly along the shaft.


Every Day Problems w/Color PROBLEM: Blonding Problem: One process blonding take on a silvery Grey color on shaft. CAUSE: The over-porous areas absorbed too much of the base color. SOLUTION: Select a light blond tint with a gold base and add in a pale gold

filler. The formula would be 1 oz color, 1 oz developer, and 1 oz color filler. Leave on shaft for 10 to 15 minutes, but always do a *STRAND TEST.

PROBLEM: Gray Problem: Patron has gray mixed into her brown hair and there wasn’t any coverage.

CAUSE: 1: Tint selected was not dark enough, or 2: improper timing of tint, or 3: the patron waited too long between retouches.

SOLUTION: Select a shade slightly deeper (darker) or *PRE-SOFTEN with a light blond tint using 2 parts of peroxide and 1 part tine. Apply to resistant area for 10-15 minutes, gently blot excess off with towel, then apply your tint formula in the usual manner.

**IF IN DOUBT ALWAYS DO A STRAND TEST: Take a slight hair section in the crown area and apply the color like you would: mid shaft, roots, ends. Spray with bottle, blot w/ towel, dry. Never assume the hair is going to accept color. Every line is different.

**The color will look more polished if you pre-soften. A rule of thumb is if it more that 30% gray use a deeper shade or presoften.


Education

Color Theory