Pruning cherriesYoung cherry trees need pruning to develop the correct shape, and mature plants will produce a better crop if pruned to encourage fruiting wood

Which? works for you

There are three groups of cherries, based on

different species, and it is important to know

which you have, as established trees are

pruned differently. The great majority of

varieties are sweet cherries, derived from the

European wild cherry Prunus avium.

‘Bigarreau Napoleon’, ‘Celeste’, ‘Early Rivers’,

‘Lapins’ (‘Cherokee’), ‘Merton Glory’, ‘Stella,

June 2012For the full selection of Which? Gardening factsheets, see www.which.co.uk/wgfactsheets

Fruit, veg and nutsexpert advice

All cherry pruning should be carried out in

the growing season. This reduces the risk of

silver leaf disease which is most widespread

in winter. Initial pruning and training of young

trees is best carried out in spring, just as the

buds are breaking. Other pruning to correct

problems and encourage fruiting should be

carried out in summer – more details below.

Initial pruning and training is the same for

all types of cherry. You can train them either

as a free-standing small tree (usually known

as a bush), or as a fan tied on to wires spaced

30cm or less apart. The wires can be

supported on a wall – which has the added

benefits of providing shelter plus storing and

radiating warmth – or on a fence or between

free-standing posts.

‘Summer Sun’, ‘Sunburst’ and ‘Sweetheart’ are

all sweet cherries. The small group of varieties

known as duke cherries, such as ‘May Duke’,

derived from P. x gondouinii, are pruned in the

same way. Acid cherries such as ‘Morello’ have

been developed from the dwarf cherry from

south-east Asia, Prunus cerasus, and are

pruned quite differently once mature.

1. First spring after planting: Firmly attach a cane to the

wires on either side of the plant at an angle of 45º. If there

are no side-shoots, cut the main stem back to 35-45cm.

Cut just above a bud, ensuring there are four healthy buds

below the cut to form new branches. As the new shoots

grow, tie in the two best, removing the others. If the plant

has side-shoots when planted, tie two well-placed shoots

to the canes, then go to step 2.

Training a fan: sweet and acid cherries

2. Second spring after planting: Shorten the two main

branches by two-thirds, cutting just above an upward-

facing bud. Remove any other shoots. As the new shoots

grow, secure three more canes on each side to create a

symmetrical fan, and tie two strong shoots above each

main branch and one below on to these new canes.

3. Third spring after planting: Cut back the eight main

branches by a third. As the shoots grow, cut off any

growing towards the wall, or directly away from it. Tie in

others, adding more canes if necessary, to fill out the fan

in a well-spaced and symmetrical way. Once you have the

fan the size and shape you want, remove the canes and

tie the branches directly to the wires.

1. First spring after planting: A year old cherry tree will normally have several side-branches. Select a group of four that are evenly spaced, the lowest at least 50cm above the

ground. Then remove any branches below these back to the trunk, shorten the main shoot to just above the top branch and shorten the four chosen branches by two-thirds. Cut back to a bud pointing in the way you want the new branch to develop.

Training a bush: sweet and acid cherries

2. Second spring: Remove any shoots growing into the centre, and cut back to the trunk any shoots below the lowest main branch. Shorten all the main branches by about a third. Choose one or two side-shoots on each main branch and shorten these by about a third. Remove any spindly or badly placed side-shoots, and shorten any that remain to about four buds.

3. Third spring: Shorten new growth on all major shoots by about two-thirds. Remove any spindly, badly placed or damaged shoots. Leave any remaining shoots of 23cm or less unpruned, and shorten remaining longer shoots to about four buds.

Sweet cherries fruit on one- and two-year old

wood, and on spurs of older wood, so pruning

concentrates on shortening new shoots to

encourage new spur production.

In early summer, select new side-shoots to

fill in any gaps in the fan and tie them in.

Shorten all other side-shoots to five or six

leaves (pictured). After the fruit has been picked, remove any unhealthy, damaged or

badly placed shoots back to a lower branch. This includes any shoots growing directly

towards or directly away from the wall. Prune back all the side-shoots you have already

shortened to three leaves, or one leaf at the top of the fan.

Pruning a mature sweet cherry fan

Acid cherries fruit predominantly on the

previous year’s growth, so you prune to

remove whole shoots to reduce

overcrowding and encourage growth.

In early summer, work along each rib

of the fan, cutting out crowded and

crossing shoots so that the remaining

ones are spaced 5-10cm apart.

Concentrate on retaining those new

shoots that are developing at the base of

shoots carrying this year’s fruit.

Loosely tie in the shoots you have

retained onto nearby canes or wires.

After the fruit has been picked, cut

back any unhealthy, damaged or badly

placed shoots back to a lower branch. .

Cut all the shoots that have fruited

back to one of the new side-shoots.

Re-tie the new shoots you have retained

to fill the space evenly.

Pruning a mature acid cherry fan

Sweet cherries fruit on one- and two-year old wood, and on spurs of older wood. Overall, they require only light pruning once established. Prune once the fruit has been picked.

First, remove any dead, damaged or diseased branches. Then remove any that are very weak, badly placed, crossing through the centre of the bush or rubbing on other branches.

Shorten the tips of the remaining branches by about a third of their new growth to help encourage the development of fruit buds.

Cut out any side-shoots that are over 30cm long, and thin out very crowded shoots. Leave side-shoots that are less than 15cm long, and shorten others to five or six buds.

Pruning a mature sweet cherry bush

Acid cherries fruit

predominantly on the

previous year’s

growth, so pruning

needs to be much heavier than for sweet

cherries in order to encourage lots of new

growth. Prune once fruit has been picked.

First, remove any dead, damaged or

diseased branches. Then remove anythat

are very weak, badly placed, crossing

through the centre of the bush or rubbing

on other branches.

Remove about a quarter of the

remaining older wood, cutting back to a

main branch or younger side-shoot.

Leave young shoots that are less than

30cm long unpruned. Shorten longer

ones, plus any vigorous new extension

growth on main branches, by about a

third to encourage branching.

Pruning a mature acid cherry bush