1. Berlinday day BY 1st Edition by Kerry Walker

2. Berlinday day BY 1st Edition by Kerry Walker 3. Contents 15 Favorite Moments 1 1 The Best Full-Day Tours 5 The Best of Berlin in One Day 6 The Best of Berlin in Two Days 10 The Best of Berlin in Three Days 14 2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 17 Something Brewing 18 Kinder Surprise 24 Dark Past, Bright Future 30 New Dimensions 36 Roaring Twenties 40 City Highs 44 Brick in the Wall 50 3 The Best Neighborhood Walks 57 Tiergarten & Potsdamer Platz 58 Nikolaiviertel & Surrounds 62 Museum Island 66 Kreuzberg 70 Kurfrstendamm & Around 74 Unter den Linden & Around 78 4 The Best Shopping 83 Shopping Best Bets 84 Berlin Shopping A to Z 88 5 The Great Outdoors 95 Tiergarten 96 Wannsee & Around 98 Marzahn Gardens 102 4. 6 The Best Dining105 Dining Best Bets 106 Berlin Dining A to Z 111 7 The Best Nightlife117 Nightlife Best Bets 118 Berlin Nightlife A to Z 124 8 The Best Arts & Entertainment131 Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 132 Arts & Entertainment A to Z 135 9 The Best Lodging 139 Lodging Best Bets 140 Berlin Lodging A to Z 14510 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 151 Schloss Charlottenburg & Around152 Potsdam 156 Tropical Islands 160 The Savvy Traveler 163 Before You Go 164 Getting There 166 Getting Around 168 Fast Facts 169 Berlin: A Brief History 172 Useful Phrases & Menu Terms174 Index177 5. Copyright 2008 John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate,Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England Telephone (+44) 1243 779777.Email (for orders and customer service enquiries): cs-books@wiley.co.uk.Visit our Home Page on www.wiley.comAll Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means,electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise,except under the terms of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988or under the terms of a licence issued by the Copyright Licensing AgencyLtd, 90 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 4LP, UK, without the permis-sion in writing of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher should beaddressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons Ltd, TheAtrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England, oremailed to permreq@wiley.co.uk, or faxed to (+44) 1243 770620.Designations used by companies to distinguish their products are oftenclaimed as trademarks. All brand names and product names used in thisbook are trade names, service marks, trademarks or registered trade-marks of their respective owners. The Publisher is not associated withany product or vendor mentioned in this book.This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative infor-mation in regard to the subject matter covered. It is sold on the under-standing that the Publisher is not engaged in rendering professionalservices. If professional advice or other expert assistance is required, theservices of a competent professional should be sought.UK Publisher: Sally SmithExecutive Project Editor: Daniel Mersey (Frommers UK)Commissioning Editor: Mark Henshall (Frommers UK)Development Editor: Donald Strachan (Frommers UK)Content Editor: Hannah Clement (Frommers UK)Cartographer: Tim LohnesPhoto Research: Jill Emeny (Frommers UK)Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Somecontent that appears in print may not be available in electronic books.British Library Cataloguing in Publication DataA catalogue record for this book is available from the British LibraryISBN: 978-0-470-51980-6Typeset by Wiley Indianapolis Composition ServicesPrinted and bound in China by SNP Leefung Printers Ltd.5 4 3 2 1 6. A Note from the PublisherOrganizing your time. Thats what this guide is all about.Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and thenexpect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides aredifferent. These guides tell you the best of everything, and thenthey show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficientway. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized bytime, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes witha bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.Hoping to view the city from Reichstag, watch the Brandenburg gatelit up at night or see some art on a stretch of the Berlin Wall? Plan-ning to roam the cobbled lanes of medieval Nikolaivertel, stridethrough the green Tiergarten, jump in an iconic Trabi or just munchon currywurst and take in the scene? Whatever your interest orschedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow.Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restau-rants, but we also help you access those special moments that localsget to experiencethose finds that turn tourists into travelers.The Day by Days are also your top choice if youre looking for onecomplete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels andrestaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, thewildest nightlifeits all here.Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personallyvisit each place they write about. Theyre an independent lot whosay what they think and would never include places they wouldntrecommend to their best friends. Theyre also open to suggestionsfrom readers. If youd like to contact them, please send your com-ments my way at mspring@wiley.com, and Ill pass them on.Enjoy your Day by Day guidethe most helpful travel companionyou can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.Warm regards,Michael SpringPublisherFrommers Travel Guides 7. vi About the Author Born and raised in Essex, Kerry Walkers itchy feet have taken her to more than 40 countries, inspiring numerous articles, online guides and around 15 travel books. After completing an MA in languages, she turned towards freelance travel writing and settled in the Black Forest, Germany. Kerry jumped at the chance to write this guide to Berlin, a city that never ceases to excite her with its creative edge, electric nightlife and outspoken locals. About the Photographer Andy Christiani is a freelance photographer who lives in the Black Forest, Germany. His photography often appears online and has illustrated numer- ous travel guidebooks. Acknowledgements This book is dedicated to Jay Bashir, my friend and former colleague at Whatsonwhen, who suddenly passed away in 2008. He is sorely missed. Heartfelt thanks to my fianc and travel companion Andy Christiani for his support and inspiring photography. A great big thank you to Colin and Deb- orah Herman for helping to arrange our stay in Berlin. Enormous thanks to Michel Henri for the generous loan of his apartment, which made the road to research silky smooth. Special thanks also to Hans Christiani for sharing his childhood memories of Berlin. An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a = icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet P. The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:AE American Express DISC Discover V VisaDC Diners ClubMC MasterCard 8. viiFrommers.comNow that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our web-site at www.frommers.com for additional travel information on more than3,500 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant accessto the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com,youll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains.You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel bookingpartners. Other popular features include:A Note on PricesIn the Take a Break and Best Bets sections of this book, we have used asystem of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (theprice of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entre (main meal) ata restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs:Cost Hotels Restaurants$under $100 under $10$$ $100$200$10$20$$$$200$300$20$30$$$$ $300$400$30$40$$$$$over $400over $40An Invitation to the ReaderIn researching this book, we discovered many wonderful placeshotels,restaurants, shops, and more. Were sure youll find others. Please tell usabout them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers inupcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, wedlove to know that, too. Please write to:Frommers Berlin Day by Day, 1st Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 9. 15 FavoriteMoments 10. 2 15 Favorite Moments str. e InvalidenHe DaeeC Ros 0 1/2 miideha All u in nzig entFritz- Rat Tor Sstr.o tdrichsha er str.r.e Putlitzstr.tr.sse u r MOABITAm Friee Gauss Schloss-Alle hen enshale laue erSt r. tr. st ralidergow ParkInv Tor S Volkspark r St00.50 km dsb enzer r. Lan PreTurmstr. Friedrichshain . Frie tr. Humboldt- Oran Str.nS Kl TiergarteTiergarten ienbuPetebit tr.hafenrger r ru oaensBraSpr Alt MoaStr. e alidrsbu e Alt M bit drichstr.Inv tt tororoMollstr. rge OtStromstr....L4r Sttr. evetPaliFr re re holtzs r. tr tr sadiedzow tr.str.Helm Ale e en en Spreer. tS tr... Paulstr str.. restr Wintersteinstr.kknch. strxanrsteesLuisenstr.Sp . nkli vene n ne1bk r Str10under D DoFra Alt HANSA- eGGGr on Lie MITTE tr. D K. str.ergeen Karl Marxaer VIERTAL r.ss r. S Alleemmers Unter Den Lind 9 hstTIERGARTENn tr.dda Ott3hhst en b rc tr. t nd oS17 Junirs Cau Strasse DesBehrenstr.Werde Mahh hleuhr BacHol zm L LichAlle JuniFRIEDRICHSHAIN M eStrasse Des 17 Tiergartenark Wilh -13tr.tsteJuni r.Ebertstr.Strasse Des 1711 . . . Neuer a a ke ke s14 tra lmstrckentr.t et . en.erer Str.Str udeSee Speer nstrr Ge 15CHARLOTTEN- Kp ree rezsnnne hauerenic . .BLeipziger Str. Tiergartenstr.Friedrichstr.BURG ker S Wind-Str.S ua Berlin Zootr. Fasa2 Reva Waldeck-Warsc ler Str.WilhM ein eineKochstr.Hein OraStr.hle Leib Leib Leibnitzstr.nien Park elm tr. sterns Kantstr. Sch str. apeicic 7tr.scheid- rich.. nebee ens Buderger Ufertr.Tau5Rud Str.e St tr. olfsHein Lind ntz tr.str.ffeffels resr St ien uffe Stra sstr. str. la em me inu ia damm nn n te OraueranGerv rsten a an a dam nien AlleKurf ens Kurf Ma 12 UrEinemst Kleisrstestr. tr. osr. andstr. andstr. tstr. Str.Pot nstr . Skalitzer tr.Uhlandstr.StStr. Nelly-Gitschiner Str.nnsern damm Blo rstent ich nzer Stwstr Sachs- 15 Favorite MomentsKurf . Park8 S S Sp Joachimstalerstr.WILMERSDORF Blcherstr. ns ns 6KREUZBERG Konstamm Pallasstr. UrbanMckernstr.ndaHohenstaufenstr. Goebenstr.st r. llertr. Gneis Lan nzo Heinrich- Yorckscksenaustr.dw Hohe tr. Yor ehrVon-kleist- kanUrbal aamm ald Str. Park1Reichstag 611 Tiergarten Grunew Bundesallee Kott t t tr.Curry 36nstr. . Viktoriapark ViktoriaparHasenh Uhlandstr. unewaldstrpts eide busuu. Gr2 Cemetery Trabi Safari7Parfum nach Gewicht 12 Jewish Museumer Str serHauMartin Luther Str. BerlinMehringdammVolksparkSo Friesenstr. Friesenstr. Friesenstr.Badensche Str. Brandenburg GateBadeschiffnn Le Lamian Dam Information Dudenstr.38 Hasenheid Hasenheide en 13 mStr.Blissestr.SCHNEBERG Columbiadamm Post Office4Pergamon Museum 9Nikolaiviertel Karl M 14 Simon-Dach-Strasse Colu Fernsehturmarx FriedhofTEMPELHOF5East Side Gallery 10 mb Str 15.Strandbad Wannsee mmCemetery iadamm Flughafenstr. er Sat r.Wexstr. c hsHe man h eSen gis daGotenstr. ur m nstr. m elhofer Dammnb 11. 3 15 Favorite Moments Berlin thrives on contrasts: from Museum Islands star-studdedart to Friedrichshains turbo-charged nightlife, Kreuzbergs 24- hour buzz to Tiergartens serene gardens. All at once the German capital is nostalgic and innovative, decadent and down-at-heel. If Berlin were a movie, it would be a thriller; these special moments have me on the edge of my seat. 1 Zooming up to the Reichstags futuristic cupola. Be among the first to ascend the spiral ramp, as . morning light streams through Sir Norman Fosters glass dome. The platform affords far-reaching vistas over Berlin, from the Brandenburg Gate to the Siegessule. See p 7. 2 Getting wild behind the wheel of a Trabi. Go, Trabi, go! Pick your dream machine, pull the choke, and feel your two-stroke splutter past landmarks from the Fernsehturm to the monumental Karl-Marx-Allee.Gazing upon the Brandenburg Gate by These cult GDR cars are the coolestnight. Temp way to enjoy the sights of Berlins Wild East. See p 53. The open-air gallery offers an insight 3 Gazing on the Brandenburginto a once-divided city, and a brush Gate by night. The Gate is alwayswith its creative side. See p 54. mesmerizing, but all the more so 6 Munching Currywurst at Curry when light bathes its Doric columns36. No trip to Berlin would be com- and chariot Quadriga in gold. Dusk isplete without a bite of the legendary the best time to snap the triumphalCurrywurst (curried sausage). Join the arch and soak up the style of Pariserqueue in Kreuzberg to sink your teeth m Platz, with its dancing fountains andminto this spicy delicacy, dripping in street entertainers. See p 7.ketchup. Just the smell of it makes me 4 Going back to Babylon at the hungry. See p 16. Pergamon Museum. Get up early7 Breathing nostalgia at Parfum and beat the crowds to Berlins treas- nach Gewicht. For unique gifts, ure-trove of antiquities. Admire friezes drop into this enchanting perfumery, of burly Greek gods as you scale the filled with the heady scent of French marble steps to the Pergamon Altar.lavender and jasmine. A perfumer by Then step over to Babylon to pick outpassion, Harry Lehmann still weighs mythical unicorns on the Ishtar Gate.fragrances by the gram on his shiny See p 9. obrass scales. See p 88.ors stkSwe 5 Walking the Wall at the East 8 Chilling on Badeschiff. On hot Side Gallery. Vibrant graffiti works,summer days, few things beat hang- from spacemen to the politically-ing out with Kreuzbergs ber-cool charged Bruderkuss (Brotherly Kiss), crowd at this floating container ship always capture my imagination at lenon the River Spree. Hipsters gather ckMe this unique stretch of Berlin Wall.to crunch sand between their toes, 12. 415 Favorite Momentstake a dip in the pool, and sip lightning-bolt creation takes you ondaiquiris as DJs spin RnB tunes tilla journey through Jewish-Germanlate. See p 126.life. From walking the eerie MemoryVoid to the isolation of the Holo-9 Roaming the medieval Niko-caust Tower, this museum unleasheslaiviertel. A warren of courtyardsemotions that stretch from horror toand cobbled lanes, Nikolaiviertel isadmiration. See p 38.where Berlin sprung up in the 13thcentury. I love to ramble along Prop- # Slurping noodles at Le Lamian.ststrasse for handmade goodies, Marvel at Qiu Bao skillfully twistingpausing at Zum Nussbaum for crispynoodles in the show kitchen at thisEisbein (pork knuckles). Come in late Friedrichshain Chinese. The signa-afternoon to see the Nikolaikircheture dish is fresh noodle soup thatsblush. See p 9. light, aromatic, and delicious. Tackleit with both chopsticks. See p 113.0 Orbiting above the city atFernsehturm. Catch a birds-eye view$ Partying on Simon-Dach-of the city from its most visible land- Strasse. The pulsating heart ofmark. Rising above Alexanderplatz isFriedrichshain offers non-stop enter-this enormous silver bauble, skewered tainment till the wee hours along itson a needle-thin spike. Its timely wink bar mile. Sip a mojito as DJs playbeckons you to the platform for disco at Kunstliche BEATmung,sweeping views over Berlin. See p 49. before nipping across to Dachkam-mer for a loft party or Astro Bar for! Striding through Tiergarten.a cosmic encounter. See p 124.Berlins green center is bestexplored on foot. When the suns% Building sandcastles atout, I join locals to recline under the Wannsee. Theres no sea for miles,willows, picnic on the banks of the but Berlin does have its own sandySpree, or quench my thirst in a leafy beach on the banks of Wannsee.beer garden. Take a minute to The citys bustle fades as you kickadmire Schloss Bellevue or meet back in a Strandkorb (wickercuddly Knut at the zoo. See p 96. lounger), devour ice cream, andwatch the yachts bob. On clear@ Revisiting the past at the Jew-days, the sunsets are bewitching.ish Museum. Daniel LibeskindsSee p 100. Partying on Simon-Dach-Strasse. 13. 1 The Best Full-DayTours 14. .t S tr chne Me mbk6str.Monbijou-hardS LiemannZiegelstr.The BestenFull-Day Tours ircks strtr.Schu Pl D.K. .KAle m.Kapetr. xan ustr. St l.pr Albrlluardtsr.ALEXANDER- o der ZirkPro s itr.Reinh S ijo u Pl ferBode PLATZee Am sInformation ech r SWashington- d. -Weiden- Spreennb ueHACKESCHERgePlatza rienstr.Berliner Dammer-MuseumGoNeMourMARKTtstr.bPost OfficeMoKarlpl MEnsemble Br nt Sne ltkar SchiLesds 7 S S-Bahn tr. Frst Pergamon-FRIEDRICH- FREIDRICH- Nationalgalerie tr.rm eBismarckSTRASSE Fleming- am Museumppd Sufe ffbaue Str. UU-BahnS Str. au er UStr.ffen ree r r. rdaSchiffbhof Luisenstr.efmm ufe Sp hli lten Paul Lbe Str. ag Georgen - Bau tr. . S tr MITTE hausst anSc D. Ze llee hst8. tReic Cllara Zetkin S Radaa Marshall-rrI.Lust-t Str erue r KongresshallePlatz der Reichstag Br HumboldtGarten ch Rotes ne Marx Engelstt. Str .. strRepublikbkRathaus se u Dorotheen Str Universitt Forum e e er 1 tsstr. CarillonStr.Lie Charlottenstr. o seq Universit-K.uuun Mittel- r. 10Friedrichstr. GrossScheidemannstr. UNTER DENstGrSchloss-usNeustdt KirchstrJohn Foster Dulles Allee .LINDENPlatz tha9 S denSpRar 4 Unter Den LineeKLOSTER- Brandenburg ufeSTRASSE U TIERGARTEN Gate25Komische OperarBr r. Strala uer Str.i FRANZSISCHErderst m17 JunWe es Strasse DesBehrenstr.U STRRolandufer am ghe Str. Franzdd ndBremer WeFranzsisc e ellleKurseit BrdFriedrichstGlinkastr. htr. BellCathedralMtr. erstr3 Wilhevu .F Otto-nagel Entlaseall Tiergarten Jgerstr. 6iscee U HAUSVOGTEIPLh MRK. Haus elms erMUSEUM Ebe Ebe Ebertstr. tr.Ku tungs nstr.Nie ins Taube de rstelr.U ... 1 Reichstagrwstr. . Insstr allsInsel-llstren MOHRENSTRASSE elsMohrenstr.tr. Wa tddd 2 Brandenburg GateUBrr.N. osser Weg e str. r. a auGr ob RLennU tra Vossst Kronenstr. akos 3 Holocaust MemorialerMarkgrstr. Jerusalemer Str SPITTELMARKTNeue JG. str. ss arten STADTMITTE U tr. Kollon 4 Unter den LindenTiergLeipziger Str.a rSeyd.An De de 5 Caf LebensartKunstgew-Philharmonie Krausenstr. elstr.str ob Museum Leipziger Str.Jak Sta S Post-Kom Wilh 6 GendarmenmarktKammer-mantellsc MuseumSchtzenstr.Friedrichstr.dan Al tr trttteMusikaal hre tr. POTSDAMER U ten elms Gadenksttte7 Pergamon Museum ers PLATZStr.rgstr. ibe tr.eutscher Widerstandderstand Sigis r munamZimmerstr.The Best of Berlin in One Day St 8 Berliner Domnn Dretsd dstr. Staats-Zimmerstr. r.e enbeBibliothek Po rstr.se New 0 1/4 mi sde Eichhornstr.r..Orar. Niederkirchnema nienMarkgrafenstrMartin Kochstr. .n er Rei 9 Nikolaiviertel NationalWaldeck- S S Stauff str.nnchp n st10 ieZum NussbaumGallery Gropius- Charlottenstr.Str KOCHSTRASSE ULiink . 0Park km0.25strtschufer . Bau richtt tr. ferSchR B er.Str. nebSchn StrStr.ens nburHein erger Ufer ebe eichpiet rge ger S Str.r sch tr. alterLindAnhUufe 15. 7 The Best of Berlin in One DayT his whirlwind tour takes in Berlins blockbusters from theReichstags crystalline bubble, rising high above the city, to aclassic stroll down Unter den Linden boulevard. Then its over to theNikolaiviertel to tread the cobbles and see the sun plop daintily intothe River Spree, rounding out with a cool Berliner Kindl in Zum Nuss-baum. Wunderbar. START: S-Bahn Unter den Linden.1 Reichstag. Head to theReichstag (Germanys Parliament) fora knockout view over the city as itwakes up. A lift rises to architect Nor-man Fosters striking glass cupola,which revamped Berlins architec-tural landscape in 1999. Theres noth-ing like the moment you step insidethe kaleidoscopic shell, where a mir-rored funnel creates an optical illu-sion; its like being trapped inside agiant glass spiders web. The 360panorama of Berlin from the platformis ideal for getting your bearings.@ 45 min.; best before 10am. Platzder Republik 1. y 030-22-73-21-52.Admission free. Daily 8am10pm. The Doric columns of the BrandenburgS-Bahn: Unter den Linden.Gate soar above Platz des 18 Mrz.2 Brandenburg Gate. In1987, Ronald Reagan stood at thishe did. Just a few paces from thespot and cried: Mr Gorbachev, Reichstag, the Doric columns of theopen this gate! Mr Gorbachev, tear Brandenburg Gate stop you dead indown this wall! And two years later,your tracks. Crane your neck to tr. rS glimpse Victoria, goddess of victory, e erg A close-up view of Sir Norman Fosterscharging forth on her two-wheeledebrsauenDesglass cupola at Reichstag.chariot, Quadriga. Conqueringch S ner French Emperor Napoleon took a e r Kthfancy to this feisty beauty in 1804ufeand whisked her off to the Louvre in Paris; she now stands triumphant rUfeabove Pariser Platz (Paris Square). Nip back after dark to see the city lights soften the edges of this neo- classical landmark. @ 20 min. Pariser Platz 1. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.tr.er S damPot s 3 Holocaust Memorial. This life-sized jigsaw puzzle pieces together Berlins troubled past. Peter Eisenman, born in New Jersey in 1932, completed the walkable monument to commemorate the murdered Jews of Europe in 2005. 16. 8The Best Full-Day ToursA field of grey stelae at Peter Eisenmans labyrinthine Holocaust Memorial.Enter the concrete labyrinth at any6 Gendarmenmarkt. Takepoint and you soon feel lost: rowa right off Unter den Linden ontoupon row of wavy stelae (upright Berlins grandest square and try tostone slabs) appear to ripple off to figure out whats unusual. Yep,infinity. It is chilling yet quite beauti- youre seeing double. Gendarmen-ful in its austerity. Be sure to visit markt is dwarfed by the baroquethe Ort der Information (Infor-Deutscher Dom and Franzsischermation Center), particularly roomDom, two churches that are the spit-3 that reveals the identity of manyting image of each other. Both wereHolocaust victims. @ 30 min. Cora- built in 1705. At the center of theBerliner-Strasse 1. y 030-26-39-43-square, German poet Friedrich36. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.Schiller (17591805) rises proudly inAdmission free; donations welcome. front of the columned Konzerthaus.S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.The square is fringed by cafs and4 = Unter den Lin- glorious Art Nouveau townhouses (number 38 is a fine example). Whenden. Watch daily life unfold as you the evening sun hits the cobbledsaunter down this sublime boule- streets its as if they are, quite liter-vard. Its easy to fall for this grand ally, paved with gold. @ 45 min.avenue flanked by linden trees, Gendarmenmarkt. U-Bahn: Franz-which Germans nickname Bume sische Strasse.der Liebe (trees of love) because oftheir heart-shaped leaves. The clip- Airbrush paintings grace the walls atclop of horses hooves recalls the Caf Lebensart.days when it was a bridle path forPrussian kings. Look out for the mar-ble faade of the Russian Embassy,the vine-clad courtyard of theStaatsbibliothek zu Berlin (BerlinState Library), and Humboldt Univer-sity, where Einstein taught. @ 45min. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.5 Caf Lebensart. Pause atthis gallery-style caf near theBrandenburg Gate for moist poppysponge and hot chocolate on the ter-race. An airbrush painting of 1920scabaret diva Valeska Gert graces thepepper-red walls. Unter den Linden69. y 030-44-72-19-30. $. 17. 97 Pergamon Museum. The Best of Berlin in One DayThis cavernous treasure-trove pres-ents a romp through AncientGreece, Rome, and Babylon. Thoughits scale is overwhelming, the starexhibits cluster in one area. Youstart in the Antiquities Collection,harboring the original-sized, recon-structed Pergamon Altar, which cat-apults you back to 160 BC Greecewith its frieze of burly gods doingbattle with the Titans. Steep marblesteps lead to the Altar Court, wheresacrificial rituals took place in the2nd century BC. If you can tearyourself away from Athens, popnext door to Babylon to marvel at agate fit for an Assyrian goddessher name is Ishtar. A close-up of the The Hohenzollern coat of arms in theglazed tiles reveals prancing uni- crypt of the Berliner Dom.corns and a mythical creature, thesymbol of Babylonian god Marduk,with a snakes head, lions legs, and 9 =Nikolaiviertel. Edg- ing south, the laid-back Nikolaiviertelscorpions tail. Step back to appreci- quarter is a great escape from theate the gates magnitude. Time per-central bustle. Its cobbled lanes andmitting, venture upstairs for some hidden courtyards time-warp youelaborate oriental carpets. @ 112 hr. back to the Middle Ages. Allow atAm Kupfergraben 5. y 030-20-90-least an hour to explore its cafs and55-77. www.smb.spk-berlin.de.boutiques. For unique teas, visitAdmission 8 adults, 4 students,Teeladen (p 92); young kids wontfree for children under 16. Dailywant to miss the cuddly critters and10am6pm, Thurs until 10pm.dolls in Die Puppenstube (p 94).U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.Note the enamel signs above many8 Berliner Dom. This neo-shops: a pipe for the tobacconist, aRenaissance cathedral built in 1895pretzel for the baker. Dominating thegrabs your attention; its voluptuous square is the twin-spired, 13th-cen-cupolas contrast with the needle-thintury Nikolaikirche (p 157, bullet 2);Fernsehsturm (Television Tower) in come in late afternoon to see itsthe background. Its centerpiece is a bricks blush. @ 1 hr. U-Bahn:70m dome. Each of its intricateAlexanderplatz.mosaics depicting Biblical scenes isinlaid with 500,000 stones in myriadcolors. For a different perspective, 0 Zum Nussbaum. Once the sun starts dropping, kick backclimb 267 steps to the upper gallery.with a beer on the terrace at oneThe view stretches across Museum-of Berlins oldest watering holes.sinsel to the Reichstag and flame-redRight opposite Nikolaikirche, thisRotes Rathaus (Red Town Hall). @ 45bar oozes musty charm in roomsmin. Am Lustgarten 1. y 030-20-26- filled with the hum of chatter and91-36. Admission 5 adults, 3 stu- whiffs of Berliner Eisbein (porkdents, free for children under 16. knuckles). Am Nussbaum 3.MonSat 9am8pm, Sun 12pm8pm. y 030-242-30-95. $.U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse. 18. Wilsn Zeh . deStr.Borer- nicssiel- rd ker wa Birk 10 acker Sleg sigsThe Best Full-Day ToursHe Str. ensStr annstrsch .Sch Weg tr. ch str. Sch Str. rz e Str.ieckBremere tr.T rTor Sr. tr. GormHamburgerLinienstr. RanstNovnhagenstr.Fritz-Kl 01/4 miBanhof validet InFriedhofent Dreysestr.Schloss- 6 r. . Ham Koppen- aliss Tor S Ros Str. Sandkrug- bu Platz nowtr. ParkStr rg.hale R. Koch Pl Haer Giper Brnr.r Bandelstr.. Str.omstr. Leh00.25 kmtr. novers Che Stsstr. nstr Walke p Phiilipp Ststr. rte Gr. H Humboldt- Linie Str.r. ORANIEN-the Pritzr StAugusORANIEN- So WEINMEISTER- rS str. tzsUr y Turm ihafenBURGER TOR U Ora phi STRASSEtrtr ambBURGERtr.ydl ser nienS ens Str. uUInformation Kl TiergarteSeS Deutsches burg STRASSEtr. U Tiergartentr.HpitalLes Weger5TURMSTRASSE ix S LEHRTERTheaterLuisenstr.r.Charitrger oD Str.Post Office nst4 y y OttSTADBAHNHOFJohannisstr.kyal idestr.Str. st str.Alexanderufer Alt Moussuss .Invmanntr SS-Bahnabit 3 rom romsiusstr SchuDircksenstr.AlbrKl.pZiegelstr.ustr. rcc ls .Kape Stromstr. r.Kirchstr Str.tstr.r.r.llu e iijoC-v- StTucho Washington-ech Friedrichstr. Am Zirk inhardsir.sene Ne Ustr. Weiden-Srrm Es U-BahnRenbfer Lessingbrd. -tr. Bode Pro eueBochumer Str. usOssielzky S Platz Moltkebrr. Th Th Thoma tstr. Dammer-MoDParker 9 Moarienst Museum HACKESCHER.rgKarlpl MCaCaCalvinst Moabiter- ltk FRIEDRICH- FREIDRICH-Brtr.tr. Mu ort- Sp Sp Spenernbu es Pergamon-MARKTWerftstr.Br nerr Str der Ltr.a mm STRASSE.prepreufe erdr. Museum Nationalgalerie Paulstr S St Ho Spree UeFlensburger Str. e fen ff g tr. lst bau ree re fngsLuisenstr.Sp Schi Sp ufer einBELLEVUE S Paul Lbe Str. Georgen - tr..ssi Sp chlieag tetkaner Hansabr Shs t Cllara Zetkin SLust-St rLesllee Marshall- da Uf Reic ertningau r7Kongresshalle Platz derPlatzGarten echt HANSAPLATZ BaHumboldtMarx Engels er 11 AkademieReichstag Brn Str. b knU Carillon Republik DorotheenStr.UniversittForumStrDer KnsteCastleLie Schloss- .tsstr.8 Mittel- Str.Universit-Scheidemannstr.K.Platz Charlottenstr. Friedrichstr.Bellevue .Alt Englischer HANSA-John Foster Dulles Allee Neustdt Kirchstr. on GartenLutherbrcke Sdenstrtr. ksUnter Den Lin ss Sp aer rBrandenburg 1 Gemldegalerieoau StrVIERTAL eg ee toc.w GateUNTER DEN Komische Opera LINDENathufe psFRANZSISCHE2 Potsdamer Platzrstr. R r loptr. s 17 JunierdeKK eit WKaiser-fr Schlosspark ree TIERGARTENHn delallee Gedchtnisk Bellevue SpStrasse De Behrenstr. STR B U chs 3 Hackesche Hfe tr. Br rd Kurs Ba10 e Franz tr. Bremer Weg WilhTIERGARTENJunies rstr4 Anatre . Entlas Strasse Des 17GrosserBell Jgerstr.FriedrichstHAUSVOGTEIPLStern evu elms tr.e Cathedral U Ni Ebertst Ebertst Ebertstr. Bremer Weg ns Tiergartentr.alle ed5 Neue Synagoge Kurs tungseTaubenstr. e e e e e eerw tr. u udstr.au Grosser Weg a llsaaalle MOHRENSTRASSEMohrenstr.6 Hamburger Bahnhoftr. rW rtrU e einNeuerGrosse eg estr. U G G Ge ste Lennr.7 Haus der Kulturen der Weltnnn SeeKronenstr. Markgrstr.str.Vossst SPITTELMARKTHofjger-Alle artenhhhte TiergartenSTADTMITTE USeJerusalemer Stre Kollon . Tierg 8 Carillona yde . r Lic lstr.str Philharmonie Leipziger Str.An De destrstr Kammer-POTSDAMER9 Krausenstr.ob Th. Dehler Str. Zollpackhof Komrgstr.Tiergartenstr. Musikaal S 2 PLATZJak tr.man The Best of Berlin in Two DaysPost- str.Schtzenstr.danteCo Rauch-Str.Gadenksttte Gedenksttte1 Staats-ers U 10 SiegessuleAl en en enbe Museumten Berlin ZoornFriedrichstr. amt rKb Deutscher Widerstandmerstr.KlingelhofeLt SigisZim Stle zow elius isstr.munBibliothektsd11 Schloss Bellevue ufePo Zimmerstr. Str dstr. Eichhornstr. S S Stauff r.rstr.Kaiser-r..R ei Kochstr.Ora r. Str. dt StNew Rtchp nienWilhelm ster Hey ietsc National eichpietstr. apeV.D.hufer schinksGedchtniskBud Galleryu 19. 11The Best of Berlin in Two Days On your second day, make a date with Rembrandt first thing,and then discover the heart of 21st-century Berlin in Potsdamer Platz. Squeeze in a boutique shop at Hackesche Hfe and a spin around the Scheunenviertel, pausing to ogle the simply Moorish Neue Synagogue. Detour for Warhol at Hamburger Bahnhof before a cruisy afternoon in Tiergarten, taking in landmarks such as Siegessule and Schloss Bellevue that recall when Berlin was the epicenter of the King- dom of Prussia (17011918). START: S-Bahn Potsdamer Platz. 1 Gemldegalerie. Raphael, Caravaggio, Vermeer, Rubens, etc., the Old Masters come thick and fast at this vast repository of European art. Get here early and target the biggies, such as Jan Ver- meers emotive The Glass of Wine (1658) or Jan van Eycks Madonna in a Church (143739). At the gallerys core is an octagonal room dedi- cated to the handsome brushwork of Dutch Golden Age master Rem- brandt van Rijn (160669). AmongLi his 16 paintings is Susanna and therElders (1647), which took 10 years ufe to complete. @ 1 hr. Matthikirch- h platz 4/6. y 030-266-29-51. Admis- sion 8 adults, 4 students, free for children under 16. TuesSun 10am 6pm, Thurs until 10pm. S-Bahn: Pots- tr. er SdamPots damer Platz. The high-rises looming above Potsdamer 2 = Potsdamer Platz. Platz reflect 21st-century Berlin. Potsdamer Platz is Berlins miniature Manhattan, the citys commercial3 Hackesche Hfe. A snip- hub with a round-the-clock buzz and pet of turn-of-the-century Berlin, futuristic skyscrapers. Pick your way these interlinked courtyards are through this crystal maze to spy theideal for strolling, boutique shop- redbrick Kollhoff (boasting Europesping, and people-watching. Art fastest elevator), the crescent-Nouveau-style Hof I is the most shaped Deutsche Bank building, andattractive, with ornamental mosaic the spinning Mercedes-Benz sign.walls and curvaceous windows. The biggest head-turner, though, is Roam the other courtyards to bag the 103m Sony Center (p 89), shelter- unique gifts from handmade soaps ing restaurants and a cinemato original 1960s sunglasses. By beneath a tent-like glass roof. For a night, the illuminated courtyards taste of how the square looked when come alive in effervescent bars and divided (before 1989), check out thetheaters such as Chamleon cabaret graffitied fragments of the Berlin Wall (p 135). @ 1 hr. Hackesche Hfe. in front of the S-Bahn station. @ 1 hr. www.hackesche-hoefe.com. S-Bahn: S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.Hackescher Markt.Gedchtnisk 20. 12The Best Full-Day Tours4 Anatre. Grab an espressoand snack at this caf, with a patiofacing the prettiest courtyard inHackesche Hfe. The ciabatta sand-wiches and antipasti are delicious.Hof I. y 030-28-38-99-15. $.5 Neue Synagoge. Thisneo-Byzantine synagoge, originallybuilt in 1866, was inspired by Andalu-sias Alhambra Palace. Bombed inWorld War II, it emerged like a Henry Moores Big Butterfly sculpture inphoenix from the ashes in 1995. Its front of the Haus der Kulturen der Welt.trio of bulbous domes feature intri-cate gold ribbing and appear to glowLichtenstein. Keep an eye out forin the dusk light. The Star of David is Warhols silk-screen of smirkinga reminder that the now hip Sche- Chairman Mao (1975), Josephunenviertel neighborhood was tradi- Beuys classic Tram Stop (1976), andtionally Berlins Jewish quarter. Today Damien Hirsts pharmaceuticalits on the up, with a growing crop offrenzy The Void (2,000), exhibitingkooky bars and boutiques. @ 20 min. hundreds of pills in kaleidoscopicOranienburger Strasse 2830. y 030- shades of color. @ 1 hr. Invaliden-88-02-84-51. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse 5051. y 030-39-78-34-11.Strasse.www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Admis-sion 5 adults, free for children6 Hamburger Bahnhof. under 16. TuesFri 10am6pm, SatWith its twin clock towers, graceful11am8pm, Sun 11am6pm. S-Bahn:arches, and echoing halls, theres no Hauptbahnhof.hiding the fact that this gallery wasonce a train station. Hamburger 7 Haus der Kulturen derBahnhof now makes tracks with its Welt. Whether or not you agreepeerless collection of contemporary with locals that this contemporaryart, including works by 20th-centuryarts center resembles a schwangerePop Art stars Andy Warhol and Roy Auster (pregnant oyster), therescertainly something shell-like aboutSee the curvaceous domes of the Neueit. Its best surveyed from the front,Synagoge blush at dusk. where the Spiegelteich pond mirrorsthe edifice; the rippled reflectiongives you the sense of being under-water. Have your camera handy forthe shimmering centerpieceBritHenry Moores bronze sculpture, BigButterfly (1984). @ 30 min. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. S-Bahn:Hauptbahnhof.8 = Carillon. The oysterslesser-known neighbor is this 42mcarillon (free-standing bell tower) ofsmooth black granite, whose soaringlines force your gaze up. Containing68 bells, the glockenspiel (a chiming 21. 13The Best of Berlin in Two Days On the BusesSave your spending money with a self-guided city tour onpublic double-decker bus route 100, running every seven minutesbetween Zoologische Garten and Alexanderplatz. For the price of asingle ticket (2.10 adults, 1.40 children under 13), you can take inmany of Berlins most iconic sights including Tiergartens Siegessule(p 13), Bundesprsidialamt (p 38), and Schloss Bellevue (p 13). Keep aneye out for landmarks such as the Reichstag (p 7), Brandenburg Gate(p 7), and Fernsehturm (p 49) as you trundle through Mitte district.Grab a seat at the front of the upper deck for the best views. For moreticket information on Berlins buses, see p 168.percussion instrument) is theway. Its most eye-catching feature isworlds fourth largest. Continuethe angelic Victoria, the same figureyour stroll through crowning the Brandenburg Gatethe adjacent(p 7), whose golden wings framesculpture gar- the sky and give the impressionden. This serene that shes about topark is a greattake flight. Berlinersapproach to thenickname her GoldenReichstag (p 7, Else because she shinesbullet 1), as the open gold in the sunlight. Thesurroundings amplify its memorial commemorates vic-dimensions. @ 15 min. tory in the 1864 PrussianConcerts MaySep Sun 3pm. Danish war, with reliefs depictingy 030-851-28-28. Free scenes of this battle and twopublic access. S-Bahn: others: the 19th-centuryHauptbahnhof.Franco-Prussian and Aus- tro-Prussian wars. PuffVictoria stands proud atopup 285 steps to the plat-Siegessule - Berliners call herform for far-reaching views overGolden Else. Berlin. @ 30 min. Grosser Stern 1. y 030-391-29-61. Admission 2.20 adults, 1.50 students, free for9 Zollpackhof. Cold beer, a children under 6. AprOct MonFrichestnut-shaded garden, and someof the finest views of Haus der Kul- 9:30am6:30pm, SatSun 9:30amturen der Welt this side of the Spree7pm; NovMar MonFri 10am-5pm.keep locals and tourists coming back S-Bahn: Bellevue.to this beer garden. Elizabeth-Abegg-! = Schloss Bellevue.Strasse 1. y 030-33-09-97-20. $. Try a gentle amble to Schloss Belle- vue. Manicured lawns guide the0 = Siegessule. The eye to this Prussian palace built inSiegessule (Victory Column) pops1786, where the German and EUup like a gigantic telescope, and hits flags flutter. @ 30 min. Spreeweg. S-Bahn: Bellevue.you in a wow-Im-in-Berlin kind of 22. tr.ksg toceSa ps r.ew lzurelis Klo Ein hstSpstr.fer 14 Str. che The Best Full-Day Tours steEng rch BacGlinkastr. inu Bremer Weg MaferBell e Des 17 JuniTiergartenevu 1 KurfrstendammTechnischeStrass Bremer Weg e EntlaseTaubenstr.M alle e lllllleUniversitt ller Grosser WegCharlie MOHRENSTRASSEnn rWMohrenstr. iiina 2 Checkpoint BreUEbertstEbertstEbertstr. tungsslau Neuer Grosse egestr.ssste S Lennr.Kronenstr.Hofjger-Alle 3 Sale e Tabbachi tr.Seestr.enMarkgrstr.Vosssttt e str.Kollon 2 ht a artentt.rTiergartenLic 4East Side Gallery Wilh An De denstr Leipziger Str.3 Krausenstr.Tierg Philharmonie POTSDAMERnnne s s str. Th. Dehler St Ha r. Tiergartenstr.r. S PLATZ elmsrg 5 rd Jewish MuseumtSchtzenstr.en GadenksttteGedenkstttetr. FasaRauch- St. be Co r. K ers U SBerlin Zooam s str 6 Riehmers Hofgartenrgse eLtStr Klingelhofebiss Deutscher Widerstand Sigism erstr.ffeffenbzow rneli tr.tsd r. Friedrichstr. esZOOLOG. unds 4 tr.Porstr. Zimmerstrm ufe us Uhlandstr. 7 Curry 36r r. Eichhornstr. rstr.emGARTENU Strdt StNiederkirchner.R ei CaStauffr. .Kochstr.an Hey chpstr. r St . . Kaiser-V.D. Reichnsietsc U . .Savigny- este - hufer piet KOCHSTRASSE tr.aptr. Str.Wilhelm LiinkschBersstr.Charlottenstr . Platz Kantstr.Markgrafenstrowufer Sc nbur n n nS . Bud Burgen-fLtzensStr.ufeGedchtnisk Kur hneger S rberger Ufertr.itith-frs Gra tr.Ltzow- Ltzowalterrrrafestr.U KURFRSTEN- Anh Lindtens SStr.Puttkamer Besselstr. Am Pl Keit UHLANDSTRASSEDAMM Tau tr.Bis r r S S . tr.Str.tr. sin Ka . n n ndgent r Str gzer St rls . . tr tr.U mmssstr.zie JakobileBerlinStr ndaStr S tr. er bate annstr.gg rsnst dme h h ll r. rg ngerfrs edemMuseum tr tr.e H tr.chi Ku AuWITTENBERGPL th thiner.eb ANHALTER AltegsbssdaaaSlulu s D DHollm 1 n BHF.niiia rUee ffli...AUGS- Kluck - - Surg hGenth Einemst r r r.anns a r a a DerAn tr.Potr.erst Sc Str n nkeBURGER Ur Der LaStr . Hallesche. 5elel Str. Str. Franz Klhs Strk n Raner Meinekestr. Meinekestr. Meinekestr. U STR ncker Fasanenstr.ggKleis NOLLENDORF-Krtstr.nst KURFRSTENnseergPLATZ eLucker Str.Mc b Pohlstr MCKERNBRCKE St Fr.ack STRASSE .Flottwellll Wald en- ampfernburger Str. U Joachimstalerstr.r ner Str. U M Str.NLietzenburgU Kurfrs GLEISDREIECK U er Str.Halle HALLESCHES TORWelser tenstr. . Mckern-scher StrBr s UfeU. Me. BLOWSTR Uiner tr U TempelhWaterloo- s s striertzsn dorf- Str. Nelly-bbMCKERNBRCKE ofer Mehring-br r r. Geisberg Tre Brernot Str. Mo BloUfer Nolle er Str. towstr. Sachs-cc iiichstr VIKTORIAWinteObentr . Parkseneautstr. S S Sp Parise Str. rfeldts r Str. LUISE PLATZFeldt-tr. ABlcherstr.Maass ZosSPICHERSTRASSE U Regensburger Str.U Winter- lvensle str.benstr . Warte MEHRINGDAMM U nburg Luitpold str. enstr. Nachodstr. str. LuitpoldUhlandstr.Mckernstr. Str. Martin Luther Str. U YORCKSTRASSEHorser Strser Str.Pallasstr.Rathaus Baruther tr. Hohenstaufenstr.nst r. Str. HOHENZOLLERNPLATZ tzs Goebenstr. 7sstr.sstr.Heinrich-nnnstr. UInformationMo Str. Str. Von-kleist- GROSSGR- tr. Kyffhauser Str 6 GneismmSolmsstr.Post Office ParkSCHENSTR Scks enauBeere Eisenacher Str.GNTZELSTRASSE Barbarossastr.YorckYorstr. Potsdamer Str.str.tschstr.tschstr.cherstr.HagelbergerStr. GNEISENAUSTR- g mS S-Bahn U 01/4 miS YORCKSTRASSE ngdaGrobgrschen- Str. Riema Gleditschstr. Goltz- U KLEISTPARKElssholzstr.U EISENACHER nnstr. UThe Best of Berlin in Three DaysU-BahnGGGrossNassauische Str.NassauischeNassauischeSTRASSEStr. Holsteinische Str.Landahausstr..BundesalleeBundesalleeBundesalleeMehrin0 0.25 kmgstrBergman nstr. Jenaer Str. Jenaer Str. Jenaer Str. FenewaldKreuzber Viktoriapar Viktoriapark Schle S hl iermachU Gru ne Str. AkrstGrun ewaldstr.Monumentenstr.a-r.lstr. - Paulus- Zie bergstr. sseAposteln 23. 15 The Best of Berlin in Three DaysF or a more intimate look at the spirit underpinning Berlin, gowest to Kurfrstendamm. Shop the boutiques before experiencingthe edgy east: Checkpoint Charlie and the East Side Gallery deserveyour undivided attention, as does the emotive Jewish Museum. Finishwith spicy Currywurst (curried sausage) in Kreuzberg. START: U-BahnKurfrstendamm.1 Kurfrstendamm.Symbol of a Cold War city divided, aDubbed Kudamm for short, Berlinsreplica hut and a soldiers post nowfamous shopping street tests your mark the former U.S. army check- thfe Me retail stamina with 312 km of chic point. Theres a sense of history atboutiques, high-street stores, andthe open-air exhibition, which givescafs. This boulevard has a split per-insightful background on the Wallsonality: head west towards well- and its impact. The adjacent Mauer-heeled Charlottenburg for designermuseum (p 52) tells Berliners per-labels from Gucci to Louis Vuitton; sonal stories of separation andeast to Tauentzienstrasse for afford- reunification. @ 1 hr. Friedrich-able fashion and department storesstrasse 4345. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse.including KaDeWe (dont miss the6th-floor food court; p 89). Forquirkier designs, root around side3 Sale e Tabacchi. Fling openthe door of this trattoria and yourestreets such as Fasanenstrasse andmet with the lively din of Italian HohenfriedUhlandstrasse. Get here early, aschatter. Dark wood paneling andcrowds swell by midday. @ 112 hr.old-fashioned service create aU-Bahn: Kurfrstendamm.charming setting for a cappuccino2 Checkpoint Charlie. or light lunch. Kochstrasse 18.From 1961 until the fall of the Wall in y 030-252-11-55. $$.str .1989, Checkpoint Charlie was theenFriedrichstrasse border crossingbetween East and West Berlin. 4 East Side Gallery. Thething that amazes me when I seeThe soldiers post and replica hut at the Berlin Wall is that its not thatCheckpoint Charlie. high: It didnt have to be. To call it awall is a misnomer: In fact it com-prised two walls and a corridor, ordeath strip, where GDR (East Ger-man) guards patrolled. Where grayconcrete and razor wire once bredAfear, people now admire the worldslargest open-air gallery. Stretching1,300m shadowing the Spree, itscolorful artworks range from politi-cally provocative to fun; look for thecrashed Communist-era Trabant car.Most visitors just take a few snap-shots, but to appreciate the awfulwonder of the Wall, I recommendyou walk every last inch. @ 1 hr.www.eastsidegallery.com. Admis-sion free. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. 24. 16The Best Full-Day ToursChip off the Old BlocFrom 1961 to 1989, the 155km Berlin Wall was a potent symbolof the Cold War, an impenetrable physical and psychological barrierbetween East and West Germany. On November 9, 1989, the Com-munist East German government announced the opening of the bor-der to West Berlin. Thousands of jubilant Berliners flocked to theWall and began chipping away at it with hammers, eager to keep achunk of history; they were nicknamed Mauerspechte (wall wood-peckers). Today, wherever you go in Berlin you encounter souvenirshops where you can purchase your own bit of Wall to treasure orsend home on a postcard for as little as 2. If youve been wonder-ing where the Wall went when it crumbled, now you know. Genuine?Maybe. Lucrative? Most definitely.5 Jewish Museum. This Upstairs traces German-Jewish lifezinc-clad building, brainchild of Polish- from the Middle Ages to the present.American architect Daniel Libeskind,@ 112 hr. Lindenstrasse 914. y 030-resembles a bolt of lightning. Zigzag-259-93-300. www.juedisches-museum-ging tunnels bring you to the Axis of berlin.de. Admission 5 adults, 2.50Holocaust, where the spotlight is onstudents, free for children under 6.individuals; particularly moving is the Mon 10am10pm, TuesSun 10amtoy monkey of a boy whose parents 8pm. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor.were murdered at Auschwitz. Its6 Riehmers Hofgarten.hard, too, not to feel a lump in yourPass through a wrought-iron gatethroat when the iron door closes,into this Art Nouveau courtyard,trapping you inside the Holocaustan oasis of calm in the heart ofTower. Other poignant creationsKreuzberg. I love to amble throughinclude Menashe Kadishmansthe chestnut-shaded square to gazeShalechet (Fallen Leaves), a triangularupon townhouses draped in vines,void filled with 10,000 screaming ironso perfect they resemble overgrownfaces that clank as you cross them.dolls houses. Its particularly magicalMenashe Kadishmans Shalechet (Fallenas night falls, when lanterns caressLeaves) at the Jewish Museum. the cobblestoned courtyard withsubtle light. @ 30 min. Yorkstrasse,Hagelberger, and Grossbeeren-strasse. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.7= Curry 36. The hum-ble Currywurst (curried sausage) isking at this sidewalk joint markedwith a red sign. Chow down on yourclassic Berlin dish with fries or cab-bage salad. Be prepared to queuewith hungry locals. Mehringdamm36. No phone. $. 25. 2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 26. 18The Best Special-Interest Tours Something Brewing1 Caf am Neuen SeeWEDDING U2 Schleusenkrugtr. S S Sty3 ars .Brewbaker S tr lll Lyn REINICKENDORFER- e e er tr.e d er chullzendorfrStr. StrSTRASSEU Stt.es 4 hreZollpackhof Norduferufer SchWEDDING tr.Se ns FNord S. iffahrts str se5 MommsenecknnLieM Friedricfer kanFe h Krause Ulle aleer6Utr.strHeinz MinkiWESTHAFENcke nsrr.Heye .. ide lerstr str Putlitzstr. Putlitzbr r SBoAn De7 Bier-Spezialitten-Laden str. Wh ertr. llKieSerS Sc Str.Wilhelmsha Vener Str.gelllerstr. U e e h h ha8 Zur Letzten Instanz Quitzowr bernh Havelberger Str. t tnstr. rle SCHWARTZKOPFF- orsEUSSELSTRASSE BEUSSELSTRASSE Bru 9 GeorgStephaPeLbecker Str.STRASSE s sts r ge tr.rr Oldenbur Siemensstr.LLLeh 10BIRKENSTRASSEBerliner-Kindl-Schultheiss-Brewery tr.tr. Waldstr. He ppsthsrU Kru tersaa ideididee Str.Str. 11 Prater ber str. Str. 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ReicUKott Str.rstr.Br Waterloo- Koh hen MCKERNBRCKE Mehring-brttttbuber .r Str.Bckler-Bckler-lfurStrzenTer Sg er S SBrParktr.Str. sserer PrinObentra sene lauutstr.eeBlcherstr.Baerwald-r.He mpel-Ohnst Zos MEHRINGDAMM U Brrre Lan yMaKottInformation Te o o Str.dbachwe U Baruther bus Urban Dieff hrkerfstr.enb Post Office s s . Frbringan str ser erstr. ach alorck KREUZBERG str. U Bl Str. YGneis c SS-Bahn mmenauKOTTBUSSERSanderstr.he e er str. GNEISENAUSTR DAMM strgdatt. Dam UU-Bahn er Str.Eichtestr.aa mer Pflg U . n tr.strZossen Mehrir.efes r te nstK tr. tr.nse GraJahnstr.r. lstr. Bergmannstr.Nasse thfe Me 28. 20The Best Special-Interest ToursB erlin is no exception in this beer-crazy country, where ahunger for the humble sausage is matched only by a thirst foramber nectar. An outing to the capitals lively beer gardens and brew-pubs is a great way to slip under Berlins skin and meet the locals. So,brace yourself for an intoxicating tour of the top drinking holes: fromquaffing under the fruit trees in Kreuzberg to slurping homebrew bythe meter in the Nikolaiviertel. START: S-Bahn to Tiergarten.1 = Caf am NeuenSee. Quench your thirst on warmweekends at Berlins biggest beergarden, seating 1,000. A narrowwoodland trail weaves through Tier-garten to emerge at Neuen See. Joinbeer-guzzling locals on the benchesbeside this tranquil lake for coollagers and giant pretzels. A sandpit,table tennis, and rowing boats (5for 30 minutes) will keep kidsamused, for a while anyway. Its evena bit romantic at night, when can-dles illuminate the lush green sur-rounds. Lichtensteinallee 2. y 030-254-49-30. Maymid-Oct daily10am11pm; mid-OctApr SatSun10am11pm. S-Bahn: Tiergarten.2 Schleusenkrug. Enjoy aleisurely saunter along theLandwehrkanal (p 97, bullet 1) to Under the railway arches, Brewbakerthis canal-front beer garden. The excels in unusual beers and breads.name is a fusion of Schleuse (lock)and Krug (beer mug). With its wil- balmy evenings. From 4pm, the grilllows and creeping roses, the garden rustles up a selection of tastyprovides respite from the citys bus- snackstry the spicy Mergueztle and is packed to the gunnels on sausages. Mller-Breslau-Strasse,Hire a boat at Caf am Neuen See for a different perspective of Tiergarten. 29. 21Something BrewingBerliner Weisse mit SchussLove it or hate it, when in Berlin you cant avoid the ubiquitousBerliner Weisse mit Schuss. This summertime tipple takes BerlinerWeisse, a tangy top-fermented beer, and adds a shot of syrup.Choose between raspberry-flavored Himbeere or Waldmeister witha woodruff (a fragrant herb) kick. Served in a chunky goblet with astraw, the drink is a playful interpretation of one of Berlins favoritebrews, and extremely refreshing if you can cope with the traffic-lightshades and strong whiff of syrup. Impress the locals by simply order-ing a Berliner Weisse rot (red) or grn (green).Tiergarten. y 030-313-99-09. Dailyto reach your target: a10amlate. S-Bahn: Tiergarten.chestnut-shaded gar- den with fabulous views3 Brew-of the Haus der Kulturenbaker. Brew- der Welt (p 12) and Bun-baker excels indeskanzleramt (p 38).the two things Its a great spot to whileclosest to away happy hours sip-Berlins heart:ping Berliner Weisse andbeer and bread.listening to boats chugDont be fooledpast, or warming upby the unassum-beside an open fire oning exterior. chilly days. TheirUnder the red-Berliner Weisse mitbrick railway Berliner Weisse with Himbeere (rasp-Schuss (see below)arches, the laid- berry syrup) is refreshing in summer. is probably the bestback watering in town. Elizabeth-hole brews excellentAbegg-Strasse 1. y 030-33-09-97-20.Pilsner and cloudy wheat beers. www.zollpackhof.de. Daily 10amOwner Michael Schwab experimentsmidnight. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.with new ales and, depending on theseason, you can sample everything 5 Mommseneck: Haus derfrom malty dark beers (in winter) to100 Biere. This gallery-style gas-unusual tipples such as pumpkin tropub on Potsdamer Platz is ideallager and potato stout (in autumn). for fickle beer lovers, with 100Dont forget to try the homemadebrews to pick from. The sleek, mod-bread, too. S-Bahn Bogen 415. ern bar tempts true hopheads withy 030-39-90-51-56. MonFribrews from Europe, America, Asia,2pm11pm, SatSun 4pm11pm. and Australasia, including 12 on tap.S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten.The mind-boggling array includesBerliner Kindl, Jamaican Red Stripe,4= Zollpackhof. This Guinness, and Japanese Kirin. Theseeffervescent beer garden makes aare accompanied by old-fashionedpopular pitstop on the Sunday after- Berlin dishes such as pea soupnoon trail along tree-fringed Helgo-with Bockwurst (veal sausage) andlnder Ufer (p 59, bullet 4). Trace pork knuckles with sauerkraut. Thethe meandering River Spree 30. 22The Best Special-Interest Toursterrace is a magnet to urbanites,Sun 12pmlate. U-Bahn: Schlesischeswho come here to chill after work in Tor.summer. Alte Potsdamer Strasse. 7 Bier-Spezialitten-Laden.y 030-25-29-66-35. Daily 11am This hole-in-the wall store inmidnight. S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Friedrichshain stocks 500 beers6 Heinz Minki. Over thefrom all over the world, includingOberbaumbrcke, and down German Rauchbier (smoked beer)Schlesische Strasse, stands Heinzand Belgian Kriekbier (cherryMinki (p 130), opening onto abeer). Its also where Berliners comegarden enveloped in vines andfor take-away local brews such asstrung with lanterns. This relaxed top-fermented Berliner Weisse. YouKreuzberg hangout is Berlins last can even buy the glasses to match.remaining tollgate, dating fromKarl-Marx-Allee 56. y 030-249-1859. Today its enchanting garden, 21-46. MonFri 10am7:30pm, Satshaded by 100-year-old apple and 10am2:30pm. U-Bahn: Straus-pear trees, exudes a come-as-you-berger Platz.are feel. Grab a chair to savor crisp 8 = Zur Letztenpizza with grapefruit-infused wheat Instanz. Just a 10-minute strollbeer. During the warmer months, from Alexanderplatz, this creakinglocals cruise over here after a dip in haunt is hidden down a cobbledBadeschiff just around the corner. backstreet near the original cityYear-round, the 1970s-style bar walls (p 65, bullet @). Berlins oldestattracts a lively crowd with regular inn, dating back to 1621, Zur Letztenevents from DJs to table football Instanz (To the Last Instance) stilltournaments. Vor dem Schlesischen solemnly swears to provide puntersTor 3. y 030-69-53-37-66. www. with a cozy atmosphere, heartyheinzminki.de. MonSat 2pmlate, local fare, and fine brews in wood- paneled surrounds. NapoleonRocket pizza at Heinz Minki. Bonaparte once supped beside the tiled stove, now graced with a bust of the French emperor. Squeeze inside to hear the chef pounding schnitzel and soak up the atmos- phere of old Berlin. Sharp-witted waiters serve classics from pickled pork knuckles to meatballs, but if youre feeling adventurous I recom- mend the Anwalts Frhstck (Lawyers Breakfast)a pair of blood sausages with creamed sauerkraut and parsley. Waisen- strasse 1416. y 030-242-55-28. MonSat 12pm1am. U-Bahn: Alexandarplatz. 9 Georgbru. After boutique shopping in the Nikolaiviertel (p 64), put your feet up at this congenial microbrewery. The shady terrace by the Spree overlooks August Kiss 31. 230 Berliner-Kindl-Schultheiss- Something BrewingBrewery. Little has changed atBerlins most famous brewery sinceJobst Schultheiss founded it in 1853.It still brews classic tipples such asBerliner Pilsner, Kindl, and lightlyspicy Schultheiss. Join a 112 hourtour (available in English) to tastethe beer and take a behind-the-scenes look at the different brewingprocesses. Indira-Gandhi-Strasse6669. y 030-960-90. 4 tour, 7with tasting. Tours MonThurs 10am,12pm, 2pm, and 5:30pm. S-Bahn:Landsberger Allee.! = Prater. Bang in theheart of up-and-coming PrenzlauerPull up a chair for beer and hearty Ger-Berg, the lively Prater beer gardenman fare at Zur Letzten Instanz, Berlins has a brewing tradition stretchingoldest inn. back to 1837. Theres nothing betteron a hot day than pulling up a benchbronze of St George slaying the under the chestnut trees to slurpdragon (1856). Inside shining cop-draught Prater Pils (light lager) orper vats and dark wood create a Schwarzbier (dark beer). Peoplewarm ambiance for serious beerfrom all walks of life gather to drinkdrinking. If youre thirsty, order abeer, chomp on Bavarian-style whitepitcher of the home-brewed Georgsausages with sweet mustard, andPils or go the whole hog with a people-watch. The vibe is relaxedmeter of beer (roughly 12 glasses). and theres even a playground forPork is big on the menu withkids to let off steam. Kastanienalleefavorites such as salted ribs, knuck- 79. y 030-448-56-88. www.praterles, and sausage salad. Spreeufer 4.garten.de. AprSep MonSat 6pmy 030-242-58-70. www.georgbraeu.late, Sun 12pmlate. U-Bahn: Eber-de. MonSat 2pmlate, Sun swalder Strasse.12pmlate. S-Bahn: AlexanderplatzRoll out the BarrelIf your appetite has been whetted, time your visit for the freeBerlin Beer Festival (y 030-65-76-35-60; www.bierfestival-berlin.de). On the first weekend in August, monumental Karl-Marx-Alleemorphs into the worlds largest beer garden, tempting ale loverswith 1,750 different brews from 80 countries. Drink in the partyatmosphere on the 2.2km route with steins a-swinging and folkmusic on 18 stages from Frankfurter Tor to Strausberger Platz. 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Zimmerstr. k MicHeinbbasChChCharlottenstraMarkgrafenstr.eJAn Sta . rst r. t nen S S Str Niederkirchne Al Melctianllscstr.mOra hiorKochstr. h hre h nien Waldeck-str. Dam ner amm Str. r.KOCHSTRASSE Ustr.iiibe r r rich Park tr. tr. r rSr DS Heinenstr.tr..ttt . r Stral t e str. Puttkamer Besselstr.Wr Lind Anh UanLeu nJakobWaldenStr.ge sch Legieem lst drinS nstr. Ritt MORITZPLATZ arstr.deman . lstrerst Naur. ANHALTER He xanOra AlteHollm r.nien nyn Mariannen-uffe str. tr.BHF.Aleanns str.ckstr.Plnte.Franz Klhs Str Nee MaLobuenb ReicMCKERNBRCKE urge hen 1 LEGOLAND Discovery Centre r St PRINZENSTR ber UHalle HALLESCHES TOR r. Was gerUscheU Berlin Zoo S r. KOTTBUSSER TOR tU 2 sertoSkalitzer Str.Wie s UfeU Zoss. GitschinerStr.rstr.Kott Str.Reicner Ur str. Br Waterloo-3 Captn hen Str. MCKERNBRCKE Mehring-br Bckler-ohlfur Schillow K tb tbusberStr.b sBckler- zen St StTer SgerBr. Str. StrPark 4 Puppentheater Berlin tr. enerPrinObentrererer autstr. rPaerBlcherstr. Baerwald- elufe Kottbusserl LLan u r. sitz Fraenkrre -sHe mpel nst 5 Museum fr Naturkundeinck ZosMEHRINGDAMM U BrBr M dweh e Uf Lau lanufer K K Kott TeP Bcayb rk erStr. 6 Bonbonmacherei ach an BarutherUrban Diefkheim Ufe al busstr. erstu seu .fenb rstr7 Kinderbad Monbijouachr.Hobrecht-rckGneis KREUZBERG str.U r Str.Yo enau str.8 AquaDOMKOTTBUSSER Berlin & SeaLife Sanderstr. Brcke tr. HagelbergerGNEISENAUSTRDAMM ldsDamStr. 9 sKinder Citytr. S Pflger Str.EichEichEichtestr.erU rwa r te r. Zossen m tKmmmefes 10 Deutsches Technikmuseumavstr.Bae MehringdamBergman Len Friederelstr.nstr. Urb ans GraBergmannstr.UJahnstr.Viktoria-11 IMAX 3D tr. par park Arndtstr. SDSTERNHasenhe Wil Alexis Str.12 Strandbad Wannsee Hermann- ideHobrechstr.hstr. Platz HERMANNPLATZtr.er Str.erSZllich Aulben Go 34. 26The Best Special-Interest ToursBerlin is tailor-made for tots, with cuddly Knut at the zoo, dancing marionettes, picnics in Tiergarten, or the short hop toWannsee to build sandcastles on the beach. Whether they want tospot the worlds biggest Brachiosaurus or try homemade bonbons,there are indoor attractions for when the weather turns dreary. Evensimple things will spark little imaginations, from munching sausagesat a roadside stall to riding high in a double-decker bus. START: U-Bahnto Potsdamer Platz.1 = LEGOLAND Discov-ery Center. A 7m giraffe, builtfrom 375,000 Lego bricks, greetsyou at this interactive attractioninside the Sony Center. Young chil-dren will have a whale of a time get-ting creative building skyscrapers orracing cars. Big draws include theHall of Fame, where Lego celebritiessuch as Marilyn Monroe make anappearance, and Miniland Berlinwhere kids can pick out models ofthe citys famous landmarks such asthe 3,000-brick Berliner Dom. @ 1hr. Sony Center. y 030-30-10-40-0.www.legolanddiscoverycentre.comAdmission 12.50 adults, 9 chil-dren under 16. Daily 10am5pm. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. A pink flamingo enjoys the shade at Berlin Zoo.2 = Berlin Zoo. BerlinZoos spacious, animal-friendly2006. He has his very own pad, andenclosures are exemplary. Top of theres a special viewpoint wherethe must-do list is, of course, visiting children under 12 can get close toKnutthe cute polar bear who won the cub. Other critters the kids willthe worlds affection when born in love include zebras, elephants,The mirror image of the giraffe outside LEGOLAND Discovery Center. 35. 27 Kinder Surprisealpacas, hippos, and the resident Natural History Museum. Its amaz-giant panda. Make the most of youring to see kids wide-eyed as theytrip to the zoo by scheduling one ofcatch their first glimpse of the pre-these feeding times: polar bears andhistoric giant (13m tall and 15.5mseals (10:30am); giant pandalong) in the central hall. Although(11am); monkeys (12pm); penguinsdino may be the star of the show,(1:45pm). @ 112 hr. Hardenbergplatzthe rest of the collection is also8. y 030-25-40-10. www.zoo- impressive, spanning everythingberlin.de. Admission 12 adults, 9 from fossilized sea urchins to miner-students, 6 children under 16. Mid-als and meteorites. Intriguing crea-Marmid-Oct daily 9:30am6:30pm;tures on display include the pudmid-Octmid-Mar 9am5pm. S-Bahn:(the worlds smallest deer), theZoologischer Garten.musk ox, and elusive kirk dik-dik.Keep an eye out for the jaws of agreat white shark near the exit.3 Captn Schillow. Treat your@ 1 hr. Invalidenstrasse 43. y 030-kids to a fun lunch on this house-20-93-85-91. www.naturkundeboat moored on the Landwehrkanal.museum-berlin.de. Admission 5When the suns out, sit on deck toadults, 3 children under 16. TuesFristudy the fishy menu of dishes such9:30am5pm, SatSun 10am6pm.as Labskaus (fish stew) and pike-S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.perch with horseradish. Thehouseboat is easy to miss: from 6 = Bonbonmacherei.Charlottenburger Tor follow a nar-Entering this old-fashioned sweetrow tree-fringed path to Lichten- shop in the Heckmann Hfe is likesteinbrcke. Strasse des 17 Juni. stepping onto the film set for Charliey 030-31-50-50-15. $$$.and the Chocolate Factory. Theresno Willy Wonka, but there is a candyman and kids love to watch him4 = Puppentheater Berlin. make bonbons by hand in the showThe traditional puppets and mari- kitchen. Whiffs of licorice and pep-onettes that play to crowds at this permint fill the air; scoop yourselvessmall theater near Schloss Charlot-tenburg captivate kids. Perfor- Marionettes perform at Puppentheatermances ranging from Noahs Ark to Berlin.classic German fairytales such asHansel and Gretel, are bound to puta smile on their faces. The talentedpuppeteers often encourage chil-dren to take part in hands-on activi-ties after the show. Full programdetails are published on the web-site. @ 1 hr. Gierkeplatz 2. y 030-342-19-50. www.puppentheater-berlin.de. Admission 5. S-Bahn:Westend.5 = Museum frNaturkunde. Whats 150 millionyears old, as tall as a four-storeybuilding, and as heavy as 10 ele-phants? Answer: the worlds largestBrachiosaurus skeleton at Berlins 36. 28The Best Special-Interest Tours Playtime in Berlin With the gigantic Tiergarten (p 96) at its heart, Berlin is one of Europes greenest cities. Its also dotted with adventure playgrounds where tots can burn off excess energy. One of the most central is the play area on John-Foster-Dulles-Allee near the Haus der Kulturen der Welt, with tire swings, ropes, and a sandpit. Edging farther east you reach the Volkspark in Friedrichshain with equipment including a pirate ship, a lighthouse, water pumps, and wobbly bridges. Another top choice is Lausitzer Platz close to Grlitzer Bahnhof, where children can have fun squirting water and digging in the sand. See map, p 96.hardboiled sweets from zesty lime7 = Kinderbad Monbijou.drops and raspberry bonbons to On balmy summer days, take yourleaf-shaped Maibltter (May leaves), children to this family-friendly lido.made with woodruff. Spin the signs While grownups relax on the lawns,to find their names in English and kids can splash in the shallow poolsGerman. @ 15 min. Heckmann Hfe. or test out the whizzy slides. Kinder-y 030-44-05-52-43. www.bonbonbad Monbijou is among the mostmacherei.de. WedSat 12:05pm8pm,central of Berlins public outdoorclosed SunTues. S-Bahn: Oranien-pools, but for a complete list seeburgerstrasse. www.berlinerbaederbetriebe.de. Oranienburger Strasse 78. y 030-Sample hard-boiled sweets made the 282-86-52. Admission 4 adults,old-fashioned way at Bonbonmacherei. 2.50 concessions, 7 family. Mid-MayJun MonFri 11am7pm, SatSun 10am7pm; JulAug daily 10am7pm. S-Bahn: Oranien- burgerstrasse. 8 = AquaDom & Sea Life Berlin. Kids can find answers to the mystery of the ocean and trace Berlins waterways from the River Spree to Wannsee at this marine center. Rays and hound sharks glide past in the tanks, and tots can han- dle starfish in the touch pools. A highlight is the Giant Pacific Octo- pus, the master of camouflage with a two-meter arm span. An elevator whisks you through the 25m AquaDom, the worlds largest free- standing aquarium. Get here early to beat the queues. @ 1 hr. Span- dauer Strasse 3. y 030-992-800. www.sealifeeurope.com. Admission 37. 29 Kinder Surprise15.50 adults, 11.50 childrenunder 14. Daily 10am7pm. S-Bahn:Hackescher Markt.9 = Kinder City. This inter-active kids city in Alexa shoppingcenter is a winner with under-12s.Here they can race behind thewheel of a mini Skoda at the drivingschool, play virtual football, or evenproduce their own TV show. Theresa separate area for babies with astarry sky and croaking frogs. Fab-rikatelier workshops offer 90-minutesessions (also in English), where chil-dren can bake their own bread orget chocolatey fingers making theirown pralines to take home. @ 1 hr.Alexa, Alexanderplatz. y 030-30-The Dutch windmill in the gardens at87-43-90. www.kindercity.de. Admis- Deutsches Technikmuseum.sion 9.90 adults, 7.40 childrenunder 12; workshops 8.60; drivingStrasse 9. y 030-90-25-40. www.school 3. SunThurs 10am6pm,dtmb.de. Admission 4.50 adults,FriSat 10am7pm. U-Bahn: 2.50 concessions. TuesFriAlexanderplatz. 9am5:30pm, SatSun 10am6pm.0 = Deutsches Tech-U-Bahn: Mckernbrcke.nikmuseum. Discover the techni- != IMAX 3D. Entertain kidscal wizardry of the past and future after dark with a trip to the worldsat this cavernous museum in biggest 3D cinema, forming part ofKreuzberg. The entrance is crownedthe spacey Sony Center (p 89) onby a DC-3 plane, nicknamed thePotsdamer Platz. The mammoth cin-candy bomber during the ema screens documentaries and194849 Berlin Airlift (p 54),animated films: from underwaterbecause pilots threw gum andvoyages to dinosaur encounters.chocolate to children below. Kids Slip on your special 3D glasses andlove to peek into the compartmentsthe effects on the screen becomeof early 20th-century steam trains, incredibly lifelike. Book ahead. Pots-marvel at bizarre homemade flying damer Strasse 4. y 030-26-06-64-00.contraptions, and wander the gar- www.cinestar-imax.de. U-Bahn: Pots-dens to glimpse Dutch windmills.damer Platz.Little uns can pull and prod to theirhearts content at the adjacent@ = StrandbadSpectrum science center. Here Wannsee. On warm summer day,hands-on exhibits are arranged the- kids can dig in the sand, splash inmatically from optical illusions to the lake, and play freely at Wannsee.flow dynamics. @ 1 hr. TrebbinerPack a bucket and spade. See p 100. 38. 30The Best Special-Interest Tours Dark Past, Bright Future Fri 8Saatwinkler NorduOlb edric Damm ferufer Sch WEDDING . Nord iffa Sstr Da richt h hrts nnmmFriedric rause Uferkan FehK alUWESTHAFENcke He.ide str Putlitzstr. Putlitzbr r SAn Destr.ll er Se str.Quitzow.nstr. r Str Havelberger Str.BerlinS He StephaeeMarket BEUSSELSTRASSErgeid ebessstr. 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