Napped FabricsPage 1

The term “with nap” is used on sewingpatterns and instructions; it affects theamount of yardage you need, how thepattern is cut, how the item is sewn andpressed, and even how the final garment islaundered. This guideline will help youunderstand napped fabrics. For sewing tipsand garment care information, seeGuideline 4.218.

A fabric with “nap”has gone through afinishing process that raises the fiber endsto the surface where they are clipped,brushed or left upright. This creates surfacetexture that in turn creates a soft hand, aheavier fabric and, usually, a warmer fabric.

The raised fibers of napped fabrics all lie inone direction; this makes the fabric lookand feel different when touched or viewedfrom different directions. If you rub yourhand from cut end to cut end, one directionfeels smooth and the other doesn’t. It’s veryimportant to lay out pattern pieces so thenap runs in the same direction on eachgarment piece or you’ll end up with oddcolor shading as well as other problems.

Pile fabrics are woven or knit with an extrayarn to create their raised surfaces and arenot true napped fabrics because they donot undergo a finishing process. They do,however, have “nap” and are usuallygrouped with napped fabrics. For the mostpart, pile fabrics require the same fabricpreparation and sewing techniques asnapped fabrics.

Napped fabrics include melton, flannel,serge, camel’s hair, sweatshirt fleece,brushed denim, mohair, lamb’s wool andsynthetic suedes, just to name a few.

Pile fabrics, which require a “with-naplayout,” include velvet, velveteen, corduroy,fleece, terry cloth, fake fur and boucléamongst others.

To determine if a fabric has nap, fold it rightsides together matching the cut ends, thenturn one corner back (1). Check that thelayers look and feel exactly the same. If theydon’t, the fabric has nap. If you still aren’tsure, use the cutting layout and sewingsuggestions for nap fabric, just in case.

Pattern Selection

The beauty of garments made with nappedfabric is the texture and hand of the clothand the way the surface reflects light.Simple designs are most suitable fornapped fabrics.

Avoid garments or items that have moredecorative details; let the fabric create theinterest. Simple designs showcase thefabric better and are easier to sew. Sincenapped fabrics tend to be bulky andrequire special sewing techniques, thefewer details, the better.

In general, avoid excessive topstitching andlimit the number of buttonholes, which candistort the fabric. Snaps and button-and-loop closures are better choices, as arezippers that are hand stitched in place. Ifthe garment has facings and the fabric isheavy, cut the facings from lighter weightfabric, or line the garment to the edge.

As always, make any fitting and lengthadjustments to the pattern before laying itout on the fabric.

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Velvets, flannel, corduroy and satin are all examples of napped fabrics. The rich hand andsurface texture of napped fabrics make them ideal candidates for luxury garments anddesign interest.

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Napped Fabrics

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Fabric Preparation

When laying out the pattern pieces for cutting, all thepieces must run in the same direction. Position theupper edges of all the garment pieces at one end, withall the lower edges toward the opposite end (2). Extrafabric is generally required in order to lay out the piecesthis way. If the fabric is expensive, layout the patternpieces on muslin or the floor to determine the exactyardage, or check the pattern envelope for a nappedfabric layout and yardage requirements.

To preshrink the fabric, follow the manufacturer’s careinstructions on the end of the fabric bolt. Consider thefiber content as well as the fabric structure. Syntheticsuede, wool melton, camel’s hair, velvet, velveteen, fakefur, etc. usually require dry-cleaning. If the garment willbe dry-cleaned, you must dry-clean the fabric beforecutting it because the fabric could shrink.

If the fabric must be stored for an extended period oftime, pin it to a hanger to avoid fold marks. Try to avoid

excessive handling, which could crush the pile or distortthe nap.

Tip: To revitalize fabric that has been stored, hang it in abathroom and fill the roomwith steam. Do not touch thefabric while it is damp, or you could leave a mark.

How To Use the Nap

Napped fabrics are normally cut so that the nap runsdown the garment, from the top down toward thelower hem. This feels softer, and the fabric tends to pillless and wear better. However, when the nap runs up,the color is richer.

Short-nap fabrics, such as corduroy and velour, can becut with the nap running up to achieve a richer, deepercolor and a more interesting texture.

Outerwear fabrics with heavy and longer surface fibers,such as fleece and camel’s hair, should be cut with thenap running down, so the pile is smooth and thegarment repels moisture better.

Before laying out the pattern pieces, test for napdirection. You can choose to lay out the pattern piecesin either direction, as long as you are consistent. If youare looking for design interest, cut certain pieces, likepatch pockets and yokes, in different directions tocreate shading.

See Guideline 4.218 for tips on working with nappedfabrics.

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