Transcript
Page 1: tlm - the travel & leisure magazine summer 2012

tlmthe travel & leisure magazine

summer 2012 £3.50

www.tlm-magazine.co.uk

WONDERFULWORLD

IN FROM THE COLDHot and happening Berlin

SANGRIA ISLANDSSpain’s Balearics

HIGH AND MIGHTYBritain’s castles

ASIAN BEAUTYVietnam opens up

SAFARIS IN STYLESvelte on the veldt

ONE IN, ALL INThe rise of all-inclusive holidays

CLEAR WATER, SOFT SANDFlorida's Gulf Coast twins

PLUSSouth Wales golfThe ChilternsOlympic LondonAutumn getaways

WIN

over £4,000

worth of prizes!

Nature’s awesome marvels

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4 in the frame picture perfect WIN – a £300 Olympus camera in our summer photo competition

6 getting to know Balearics 14 escape to Berlin 19 uk uncovered Britain’s castles26 competition

WIN – a £1,200 three-night break in Ibiza with British Airways27 hit the road Highlands of Scotland31 events focus Festival No 632 resort report St Petersburg/Clearwater37 competitions

WIN – a £740 Cornish rail getaway and a £400 three-night Shropshire stay 39 travel fare a taste of Spain – Seville favourite, tapas40 seasonal focus autumn getaways48 a touch of class luxury safaris 55 in your flightbag what to take on the flight

WIN – one of two YUU bags worth £43 each 56 in your suitcase what to pack for your holiday

WIN – a £265 Adam suitcase and one of three Ingenue dresses worth £93 each58 10 of the best natural wonders67 let’s try all-inclusives73 off the beaten track Vietnam78 pack your clubs South Wales + golf news

WIN – a Druh golf belt worth £7983 travel update travel news 86 on your doorstep Chilterns92 travel tech gizmos and gadgets to take away

WIN – a £495 pair of Swarovski binoculars and BRAVEN speakers worth £13094 checking out focus on airport hotels, self-catering, news + reviews

WIN – an airport hotel stay, eight days’ parking and airport lounge access worth £250102 london life Olympic London + London news 106 out & about what’s on outside London110 coming next what’s in store in the next issue

subscribe to tlm – and get an Insight Step by Step guide FREE

tlmc o n t e n t s

EDITORIAL: Editor Peter Ellegard Editorial assistant Julie ThompsonWritersWriters Peter Ellegard, Julie Thompson, Dave Richardson, John Butler, JeannineWilliamson, Rob Gill, Debbie Ward and Amy Watkins Design Nick Blaxill Production June Barnard PublisherTerry Stafford Advertising sales Elaine Smith

Digital Publisher Peter Lewsey Published quarterly byTLM Media Limited, Langdale House, 11 Marshalsea Road, London SE1 1EN Tel: 020 3176 2570 Fax: 020 3176 2572 Email: [email protected] Printed byAcorn Web Offset Limited ©TLM Media Limited

Front cover photo: Spectacular Northern Lights display over Finland © Visit FinlandThe publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Whilst every care is taken, all material submitted to TLM Media

Limited is done so at its owner’s risk and neither TLM Media Limited nor its agents can accept any liability for loss or damage.

TLM Media Limited is a completely independent company and can hold no responsibility for the actions of outside agents.

Is it really summer? Recentweather might havepersuaded us otherwise, with

floods, record rainfall and chillwinds, but we hope our jam-packed summer issue will bringa little sunshine into your life.Florida is often known as the

Sunshine State and our ResortReport heads to the twinresorts of St Petersburg andClearwater to check out someof America’s best beaches. Wealso take a look at the growingtrend of all-inclusive holidays inour popular Let’s Try feature,while one of South-East Asia’sfastest-growing tourism hotspots,Vietnam, is the focus for our Offthe Beaten Track pages. Fancy taking off on safari in

style? Our Touch of Classfeature gives the lowdown onluxury safaris. And if you thinkyou may need a little tonic forthose post-summer blues, ourseasonal focus looks at somegreat autumn getaways. Also in this issue, be awe-

inspired by 10 of the world’s bestnatural wonders, peek insideBritain’s castles or take to theroad in the Highlands of Scotland.We tee off on the fairways ofSouth Wales, scene of Europe’s2010 Ryder Cup victory, plus wehighlight the lasting legacy thissummer’s Olympic Games willleave for London.With over £4,000 worth of

prizes to be won too, including athree-night break in Ibiza withBritish Airways and a Cornishrail getaway, get out that sun-lounger and soak it all up,whatever the weather...

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from theeditor

the travel and leisure magazine

Peter Ellegard

n Natural wonder Uluru in Australia. See page 58

Intrepid Travel

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Part of the Traveller range of cameras fromrenowned manufacturer Olympus designed withtravel in mind, the SZ-31MR is a compact digital

camera that boasts an amazing 24x super-resolutionzoom to get you up close and personal with your sub-jects with minimal loss of image quality.Other features of this mini marvel include:

l New Olympus iHS technologies for capturing exactlythe shots you want irrespective of shootingconditions.

l Three-inch touch-sensitive colour LCD viewer withTouch Shutter and Touch AF.

l Multi Recording with Dual Engine TruePic V imageprocessor for recording movies and photos simultane-ously, or two movies in different modes or fromdifferent angles.

l Multi-motion Movie IS for recording full HD movieswith reduced blur while walking.The SZ-31MR has an RRP of £299.99 and now you

have a chance to win one for yourself in our summerphoto competition, courtesy of Olympus.

The theme for entries is travel, and all you have to dois send us up to two pictures that fit the theme. Theycould be pictures you have taken on a trip of a lifetime tosome exotic destination, a Spanish sojourn, a weekendaway in Paris, a camping trip in Wales or a day trip to theseaside. We’ll leave it to you.

how to enter

For details of how to enter the competition, go towww.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on Competitions.Entries will consist of a portfolio of a maximum twophotographs. You must be a UK resident. Only oneentry is allowed per person and professional photogra-phers are excluded. Closing date is midnight onSeptember 22, 2012, whereupon the final 12 photos willbe selected for a vote on the tlm website. See the tlmwebsite for more terms and conditions.

For more information on the range of Olympuscameras, go to www.olympus.co.uk.

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in the frame n summer photo competition

Travellers’

joy

Snap your travels and you can WIN afabulous Olympus SZ-31MR cameraworth £300 in our great newsummer photo competition

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n Inuit mother andbaby in Arctic

Nunavut, Canada

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getting to know n balearics

quartet

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When I ask Martin Xamena how hishotel guests have changed over thelast half century, he raises his eye-brows. “When I stay at a hotel I like tobe served, I like a pleasant ambienceand I like to meet civilised fellow

guests,” he says. “That’s what I try to achieve, but tofind civilised people these days isn’t easy. Just look athow even famous people behave.”

Civilised people? In Majorca? The Spanish island,largest of the Balearics group, is synonymous with massmarket package holidays. Like neighbouring Ibiza, it’salso very popular with young clubbers, but Martin’s BonSol hotel in Illetas, Majorca, offers a rather differentexperience. The family home became a guest house in1953 and has since been transformed withfacilities including a major spa. The BonSol is a haven of tranquillity, excellentfood and, yes, civilisation. No wondersome guests have been comingevery year for 50 years, and adozen of the waiting staff havebeen there since the 1980s.

Mass market, high-rise resortssuch as Magalluf and Palma Novain Majorca, and San Antonio in Ibiza,are still going strong, and both islandssuffer unfairly from the image theseresorts project. The second largest Balearic

island, Menorca, has largely avoided the mass marketdespite having some large hotels, and is a favourite offamilies. As for tiny Formentera, the fourth Balearicisland, mass tourism has virtually passed it by.

The islands have been favourite holiday destinationssince long before the package holiday age. Polishcomposer Frederic Chopin was a notable visitor toMajorca in 1838 and King Juan Carlos of Spain consid-ers Majorca attractive enough for his summer holidayretreat. But with cheap flights from all over Britaintaking just two hours and extensive development alongthe coast, you have to pick your spot to enjoy the tran-quillity of the Balearics. This summer could beespecially busy, with the pound gaining strength againstthe euro and uncertainty hanging over other popular

holiday spots.

family-friendlyDespite being the most developedisland, Majorca has been able towithstand the annual influx of overaround two million tourists simplybecause of its size – over 2,500square kilometres (1,000 squaremiles). Mass market development is

concentrated around the Bay of Palmain the south, with the north and east

coasts having many smaller and morefamily-friendly resorts, such as Alcudia, Puerto

Spain’s Balearic Islands have been the favourite stamping groundof tourists since composer Frederic Chopin. But, as long-timeconvert Dave Richardson points out, there is far more to thispopular archipelago than high-rise resorts, bustling beaches andfoam-party nightclubs

Turespana

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n Font de SaCala, Majorca

n Binibeca, Menorca

n Market shoppingin Formentera

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Pollensa and Cala d’Or. The west coast is little-devel-oped, courtesy of the Sierra Tramuntana mountains, andpicturesque coastal towns such as Banyalbufar and Deiaperch on the cliffs. The north-west coast is flatter; hereyou’ll find perhaps the prettiest coastal resort, and theone with most “local” character, Puerto Soller.

Away from the mountains in the west, inland Majorcais less interesting, being mainly a plain, but with high-lights including Manacor where Majorca’s famouscultivated pearls are produced. A “must” away from theresorts is the city of Palma, a city break in its own right

especially off-season, when it is cooler and considerablyless crowded.

Palma is a bustling seaside city with the long PaseoMaritimo boulevard running beside the sea, past amarina brimming with luxurious yachts and a busycruise terminal. The nearest beaches are a few milesaway either on the west side, where Palma Nova andMagalluf are favoured by the British; or on the east side,near the airport, where C’an Pastilla and Arenal aredistant outposts of Berlin and Frankfurt. But it’s the oldcity of Palma which is most worthy of attention, and thatis just behind the huge Gothic cathedral which towersover the eastern end of the Paseo Maritimo.

The cathedral was built between the 14th and 16thcenturies, but the rose windows were created by theCatalan architect Gaudi, best known for his lavishmodernist architecture in Barcelona. The maze of narrowstreets behind the cathedral is a delight to wander in, andstill home to thousands of people as well as bars, restau-rants, boutiques and historical attractions. Don’t miss theArab Baths, Convent of St Francis and art museum,housed in an ancient building once used by merchants.Almudaina Palace, by the cathedral, was the seat ofMoorish and Catholic kings.

british linksPalma can easily be reached for a day trip from mostMajorcan resorts, but consider staying longer if you’reinto history, culture, shopping, gastronomy andnightlife. It has a lovely old Plaza Major or main square,

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l See Palma’s cathedral and old town.l Take a taxi to admire the view from Bellver Castle in Palma, then

walk down.l Take the antiquated electric train from Palma to Soller, then ride

a tram to Puerto Soller through the orange groves.l Children will enjoy Palma Aquarium, near the airport.l The Caves of Drach, on Majorca’s east coast, are highly impressive.

l Discover the prehistoric stone tombs of Menorca.l Stroll the character-filled streets of Ciudadela, Menorca's

former capital.l Spend a day in Ibiza Town’s old quarter, including lunch at a top

restaurant such as El Olivo.l See the island’s wetlands, Ses Salines.l Walk or cycle around Formentera.

10 things to do in the balearicsTu

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“You have topick yourspot to enjoythetranquillityof theBalearics”

n Palma's toweringGothic cathedral

n The streets of Palma

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with historic buildings on every side and cafes andshops dotted around, although anything

bought here comes at a premium. Olivermarket is well worth a browse to stock upon typical Majorcan snacks or simply

admire the displays of fruit,vegetables and fish, while themain areas for fashion shop-ping are Paseo de Born andAvenida Jaime III. The cityhas lots of bars and restau-

rants and plenty of clubs too,mainly in the small streets near

Paseo Maritimo.You might think the many large resort

hotels, and big city hotels in Palma, arethe only accommodation choices. But thatis not so, as there are many historic,boutique and character hotels scatteredaround the island plus a few in Palma oldtown, including the Dalt Murada, closer tothe cathedral. Over 20 of these belong to

the Reis de Mallorca marketing group. Menorca is the least visited of the three main Balearic

islands by British visitors, yet we have a long historyhere. Britain ruled Menorca three times between 1708and 1802, with periods of French and Spanish rule inbetween. An unlikely link between Menorca and a food-stuff used throughout the Western world is mayonnaise,named after the main town of Mahon by the French,after they wrested control of it from Britain in 1756.

The island has some excellent sandy beaches thathave seen plenty of development, but nothing on thescale of the Bay of Palma in Majorca. Resorts are mainlyon the south coast and include Santo Tomas, Son Bou,Cala Blanca and Cala Galdana, plus Arenal d’en Castellon the north coast. Many of the beaches are on small,fairly secluded bays, popular with families. There areplenty of villas here, too, for large families or groups offriends.

palaces and churchesMenorca is essentially a place to chill out, but a trip toMahon or the other main town, Ciudadela, may be

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walking in the balearicsStrolling along a coastal track near Banyalbufar, on the west coast of Majorca, was aheavenly experience even as early in the season as March. The sun shone strongly,the calm sea glistened and the pine woods were fragrant, yet I was less than anhour away from the big resorts near Palma. Winding up an easy two-hour walk in a village tapas bar, I took my time before

taking a different route back to the welcoming Hotel Mar I Vent, run by the samefamily for generations.Much stiffer walks are on offer in Majorca’s mountains, with the book Walk and

Eat in Mallorca (www.sunflowerbooks.co.uk) offering 10 itineraries of varyinglevels from Palma to Soller. All the other islands have walking tracks too, withguided walks operating in Ibiza, where the emphasis is mainly on coastal routes.

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n No high-rise blocks atMajorca's Cala Truent

n Copia de San-LuisBenibequer, , Menorca

n Local fare, Majorca

n Formenteraculture

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rewarding. Mahon, on the east coast, is less interesting,although it’s good for shopping and has a colourful port.Ciudadela, on the west coast, has more of a historic feelas befits the island’s former capital. In the old town, youcan enjoy 17th and 18th century palaces and churches,while the harbour is a delight and close to most of thenightlife. Some of Menorca’s finest and least-developedbeaches are nearby, including Son Saura and Macarella,but access can be difficult.

Inland Menorca is mainly farmland with plenty ofcattle, the highest point reaching only 350 metres(1,150ft).

If you are keen on ancient history, the interior isworth exploring in depth as it has over 1,000 megalithicmonuments, mainly ancient T-shaped tombs calledtaulas. There are also some signs of Roman settlement.

If Menorca’s image is one of peace and relaxation,the opposite could be said of Ibiza, due to its long-estab-lished clubbing scene. Huge pleasure palaces of insistentbeat (and the infamous foam parties), such as Privilegeand Pacha, can be found in the resort of San Antonio,capital Ibiza Town, and along the road in between. San

Antonio is a huge clubbing resort and you’re ill-advisedto go there if you’re over 30 – or even over 25.Fortunately, however, Ibiza has never attracted the worstand cheapest end of the clubbing market as in Greeceand Cyprus. The reason is simple – it’s expensive.

But the foam party image has put off the older visitor,despite the existence of much quieter resorts appealingto couples and families, such as Santa Eulalia, Es Canaand Playa d’en Bossa, which has the island’s longestbeach. Some older people return to Ibiza yearafter year and see nothing of its lurid image,but as the island is fairly small – about570 sq km (220 square miles) – it’s impor-tant to choose your resort carefully.

isolated beachesIbiza is worth exploring, with a largePhoenician archaeological site at Puig desMolins and the wetlands of Ses Salines, butmost of the sightseeing is in Ibiza Town. Byday – before the nightlife cranks up – it’s a charm-ing place, with a fortified old town surrounded by

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getting to know n balearics

eating anddrinkingThis being Spain, it’s nosurprise that eating out is highon the list of priorities, withexcellent but pricey seafoodthroughout the islands. If youchoose self-catering, don’t beafraid to cook it yourself,buying from Oliver or SantaCatalina markets in Palma, orthe main markets in IbizaTown, Mahon and Ciudadela.

Majorca has really developedits foodie reputation, with manyrenowned restaurants not onlyin Palma, but throughout theisland. Other specialitiesinclude roast suckling pig,sobrasada (sausage flavouredwith paprika) and ensaimada, awheel-shaped sweet pastrywhich many visitors take homein cardboard boxes.

Food trails in Majorcaintroduce you to local produceincluding olive oil and cheese.

Also look out for fish, meatand vegetable stews in Ibiza,and specialities of Menorcaincluding partridge and cheese.Majorca has a developing wineindustry, while Menorca isfamous for gin.

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n Terrace bar inthe Port of Ibiza

n Ibiza Town

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Medieval walls dating from Phoenician times but rebuiltin the 16th century. There are many character restaurantshere, but it can also be very crowded in peak season. And what of Formentera, smallest of the Balearic

islands? It can only be reached by boat from Ibiza, andhas similar wetlands. Isolated beaches and a handful ofvillages dot the island, the main one being the port of LaSavina. It is one of the best “away from it all” experi-ences in Spain despite having a few large hotels, and isgood for walking and cycling. The arty Spanish film,Sex and Lucia, is set here, with Formentera portrayed ashaving magical qualities.I must find out why one day, as my only visit so far

was a day trip from Ibiza. But it will take a lot to wrenchme away from my very “civilised” special places inMajorca, such as the sun terrace at the Bon Sol, walkingalong the west coast, or Palma’s old town. When you consider how many “new” holiday desti-

nations have sprung up over the last 20 years but howmany people still regard these islands as their favourites,the Balearics really are the great holiday survivors.

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balearics facts

Dave Richardson discovered Majorca as a young man in the1970s, and first came to Ibiza before the clubbing crazestarted. He moved on to sedate Menorca and, being youngat heart, he now regularly re-visits Majorca as it appeals toall tastes.

when to goThe tourist season in Menorca, Ibiza andFormentera is strictly from May toOctober, with only Majorca being openyear-round. Spring and autumn are idealtimes to visit as high summer can bevery hot, with cool temperatures andrain in winter, and occasional snow inMajorca’s mountains. Palma hotels are openyear-round but many Majorcan resort hotelsclose in winter.

getting thereYou can fly to Majorca from all major airports in Britain, with Ibiza alsohaving good coverage and Menorca less so. Main airlines include easyJet(www.easyjet.com), Ryanair (www.ryanair.com), Monarch(www.monarch.co.uk), Thomson (www.thomson.co.uk), ThomasCook (www.thomascook.com) and Jet2 (www.jet2.com).

getting aroundCar hire and buses are the way to go, with Majorca having somemotorways and rail routes. Inter-island ferries are available.

tour operatorsThese include Thomson, Thomas Cook and Cosmos(www.cosmos.co.uk). Classic Collection (www.classic-collection.co.uk) also offers many boutique hotels. MallorcaFarmhouses (www.mallorca.com) offers what it says on the tin.

accommodationThe Bon Sol in Illetas, Dalt Murada inPalma and Mar I Sol in Banyalbufar allbelong to the Reis de Mallorcamarketing group(www.reisdemallorca.com). Theislands have many other accommodation

options, from self-catering apartments upto five-star hotels.

tourist informationSpanish Tourist Office: www.spain.info/en; 020 7317 2011

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n Formentera's harbour

n Soller tram,Majorca

n Hotel complex,Formentera

n Dalt Vila Cathedral, Ibiza

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Once, having landed in Berlin for the firsttime late on a Friday night, a friendcabbed her way from the airport straightto Berghain (http://berghain.de), an infamous industrial nightclub, to meet upwith friends.

Still in work clothes, she had a wheelie suitcase withher and, emerging from the taxi, she was dismayed to seegrim bouncers massed at the Friedricshain exterior. Nochance. She was about to call it a night when a bouncercalled her over, lifting the velvet rope and pointing at herweekend bag.

“DJ! All DJs must come this way.”

Brooking no argument, the enormous bouncer led herthrough a labyrinthine tunnel and into a service elevatorwhich rose and opened directly onto a raised DJ boothabove the heaving dance floor. Terrified, my friendturned to him, ready to be thrown out.

“Okay, okay, I’m really sorry. Thing is, I’m not reallya DJ.”

After the briefest of pauses, the huge bouncer beganto chuckle. “Yes, we know that. It’s okay. We are justbeing stupid with you.”

First impressions of Berlin can be intimidating; thename alone carrying with it the weight of terriblehistory; the terror of the Nazi regime, the 40-odd-year

Wall’s cometumblingdown

Berlin’s stern façade and grim history can be daunting to visitors, but Germany’s reborn capitalhas a soft centre that belies its Teutonic appearance. John Butler finds this once-divided city aforward-looking cultural gem with a lively nightlife and restaurant scene where even stylecouncillors can find solace in unsung boutiques

escape to n berlin

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division of it through the construction of a wall whichcame to embody the Cold War. But cities are a livingbreathing organism, constantly regenerating, and throughits art, public buildings, the people and the eclecticculture, at every turn Berlin offers a chance to lookforward as well as back. It is best experienced as a whole, as one walks or

cycles through it, or by bus; hop-on, hop-off tours cost15 euros (about £12.50) with City Sightseeing(www.city-sightseeing.com/tours/germany/berlin.htm).Orient yourself by starting under the huge needle-like

TV tower – you can rent bikes here with Fat Tire BikeTours (http://fattirebiketours.com/berlin), at the

very heart of the old East, in Alexanderplatz. From here, the galleries of Mitte are five minutes

away, not to mention the boutiques – although shoppingis not considered a past-time in this proudly anti-consumerist city (shops are even closed on Sunday).

berlin wallIn the opposite direction, a stroll down the historic maindrag of Unter Den Linden brings you past St Hedwig’sCathedral, the Zeughaus (German Historical Museum:www.dhm.de), and the Altes Palais, the Berlin palaceof Kaiser Wilhelm I. Do not miss the beautiful and free-to-view Neue Wache, originally a guard house and nowthe “Memorial to the Victims of Fascism andMilitarism”. You also pass the Berlin State Opera

(www.staatsoperberlin.de), where the acoustics areconsidered to have achieved such fragile perfection thatthe chandeliers remain un-dusted. Shows cost from 16euros (around £13), although it is closed throughoutmost of July and all of August. En route, you pass along the River Spree. If you

fancy a riverside stroll, be sure to take in the PergamonMuseum (www.smb.museum) which houses the recon-structed Ishtar Gate – one of the gates to the ancient cityof Babylon – or take a river cruise. A one-hour cruisecosts from 11 euros (about £9) per person with BerlinCity Tours (www.berlincitytours.com). Continue on Unter Den Linden to reach the Branden-

burg Gate, beyond which lies the stunning Tiergarden,Berlin’s largest and oldest public park. Directly beyond,behind the famous Berlin Victory column immortalisedby Wim Wenders in the film, Wings of Desire, lies theaffluent borough of Charlottenberg, and the heart of oldWest Berlin. Adjacent to the Brandenburg Gate, a few minutes

away, lies the Peter Eisenmann-designed HolocaustMemorial. It’s not without its critics, but walking amidstthe undulating slabs of concrete is a very unsettling

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“Shopping is notconsidered apast-time inthis proudlyanti-consumeristcity”

n Neptune fountain infront of The Red TownHall on Alexanderplatz

n Unter denLinden streetfestival

n Organ-grinder at theBrandenburgGate

n IshtarGate inthePergamonMuseum

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experience. Obliquely and ingeniously, it calls to mindthe unfathomable horror of the Holocaust.

Nearby, too, are Checkpoint Charlie, the most famouscrossing point between East and West Berlin during theCold War, the Jewish Museum (www.jmberlin.de) andthe Topography of Terror (www.topographie.de),where the Gestapo, SS and Reich security offices werelocated, and where the longest untouched stretch of theold Berlin Wall remains. Incidentally, stretches of thewall do remain and are preserved, but it’s best encoun-tered as you move through the city.

terrific foodGermany is not renowned for its food, but Berlin is notGermany, as they say, and there’s a dizzying array ofterrific food options. Schwarzwald Stuben(www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com) is a greattraditional German restaurant in Mitte. Try theFlammkuchen; a savoury tarte flambé.

House speciality is the schnitzel – and believe me, itis divine. A bottle of Riesling should help it along, or alarge tankard of the Berliner pils. Ambience is low-lightand casual.

Did you know that doner kebabs are a German inven-tion? The first kebab was made by a genius calledMahmut Aygun in Hasir in Kreuzberg(www.hasir.de/eng/index.html), in 1971. And you canforget about the post-pub connotations. These kebabs areperfectly flavoured and served with homemade bread.There are a few Hasir restaurants across Berlin now;each and every one of them leaves the English kebabshop in the shade.

There’s also a profound Vietnamese influence inBerlin. Back in the Cold war, Communist East Germanywas one of the few destinations to which a North Viet-namese family could emigrate, and the Vietnamese foodat Hoai Nam (www.hoainam.de), on Skalitzer Strasse,is wonderful.

Torstrasse, in Mitte, is emerging as Berlin’s restaurantmile. Book ahead for any of the following; Noto

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beyond berlinBleak, dark Berlin winters tumble headlong into a glorious summer that you canbank on. If you’re lucky enough to be here during the summer, and you fancy someexploration, these day trips are easy. l Grunewald – a massive expanse of beautiful parkland, a 30-minute train ride

from the city (S-Bahn S7). Take your bike on the train and explore, or bring apicnic and enjoy the sylvan quiet.

l Wannsee – 40 minutes by train from Berlin (S-Bahn S1), the lake here is greatfor swimming or boating, and a few little restaurants are dotted around itsbanks. Berlin comes here to sunbathe, or jog/cycle the perimeter.

l Potsdam – a short 45-minute train ride away (S-7), and home to Sanssouci(www.spsg.de), Frederick the Great’s summer palace. Inside, a series of rooms takethe over-stuffed and gilded style to its furthest extremes. A guided tour costs 12euros (about £9.60) from April to October and 8 euros (£6.40) from November toMarch. After visiting, one comes to understand why the marriage of this flamboyant,rococo-loving prince-with-Daddy-issues might have failed to produce an heir.

getting arty in berlinPre-book a visit to two rather special galleries in the Mitte district. Since 1997,guided tours through a converted sewing factory housing the Zammlung HoffmanCollection (www.sammlung-hoffmann.de), on Sophienstrasse, have taken placeevery Saturday from 11am-4pm and admission is 10 euros (about £7.80). See worksby the Gruppe Zero, Bruce Nauman, Basquiat, Nan Goldin and Andy Warhol. Also book in advance, online only, for a visit to the Boros Bunker

(www.sammlung-boros.de). This excellent collection of contemporary art issituated in a converted bunker in Mitte; and the story of the space is at least asinteresting as the work. Initially built as a shelter for civilians in World War II, theBoros Bunker has since been used as a prison, fetish club and nightclub, and nowhouses work by artists including Olafur Eliasson. Admission to the Mies van der Rohe-designed Neue National Galerie

(www.neue-nationalgalerie.de), on Potsdamer Strasse, is 10 euros. Thepermanent collection includes works by Paul Klee, Francis Bacon and Picasso. Alsonearby is the ornate Martin-Gropius-Bau building, a former museum across onNiederkirchner Strasse, now an exhibition hall.

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(http://noto-berlin.com), Tartane (www.tartane.de),Alpenstueck (www.alpenstueck.de), and Themroc(http://themroc-berlin.de). 3 minutes sur mer, inTorstrasse, is an off-shoot of Bandol-sur-mer next door,both of which serve excellent French cuisine to theMitte/Prenzlauer Berg gentry. This place is too hip for aweb site, but the telephone number is +49 (0) 30 67302053. You’ll need a booking to rub shoulders with thehip and trendy clientele, but the food is terrific, as is thewine list.

bars and clubsAfter all that, you’ll be ready for a nightcap. Ping pongis big in Berlin – tables are to be found in most parks,and the ping-pong-themed Prenzlauer Berg dive bar DrPong (www.drpong.net), on Eberswalder Strasse, is afun place to meet younger, hip locals. Tell the owner,Oliver, that John sent you over, and demand a freedrink. Good luck! If you’re near West Berlin, Diener

(www.diener-tattersall.de), on Grolmanstrasse, was aCold War haunt of Ian Fleming’s and is worth a visit.Lastly, Samuel Beckett is honoured by Becketts Kopf(www.becketts-kopf.de), in Pappelallee.And where to lay your head at the end of a long day?

Hotel options abound at all price ranges, but I’m anevangelist for www.airbnb.com, a secure and easy-to-use website where you can rent apartments in alllocations, securely, and with no fuss. Best of all, it meansyou can stay in some residential neighbourhoods thattend not to have hotels. Pick a place in Prenzlauer Berg, a 10-minute walk

north from the centre and a haven for brunch, with manyparks and great restaurants. If you’re looking for a buzz, Kreuzberg and

Neukölln, to the south-east, boast a hip, younger crowddrawn by a high concentration of great bars and clubs. Quieter, but equally interesting, is Schoeneberg,

where historic Tempelhof Airport has now beenconverted into a huge, dramatic park.

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escape to n berlin

Author John Butler has been eating and drinking his wayaround Berlin on weekend breaks for 10 years and has yet

to tire of the place. Having had his debut novel, TheTenderloin, published by Picador, he is currently writing hissecond novel and loafing around Europe.

berlin facts

when to go Each season has something to recommendit. A winter walk through the snowyTiergarden brings the sight of ice-skaters,and couples drinking gluhwein underblankets at the frozen canal side. Insummer, the same park offersrollerbladers, kite fliers, and chilled wine.What’s your preference?

getting thereBerlin’s a two-hour flight from London’s airports. British Airways(www.ba.com) flies from Heathrow, easyJet (www.easyjet.com)from Luton and Gatwick, and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) fromStansted. There are two main airports in Berlin, Tegel and Schonefeld,both connected to the city via train. Brandenburg Airport is underconstruction and was due to have opened by now, but the opening hasbeen delayed until March 2013.

getting aroundBerlin has an excellent transport system. Taxis are all beige Mercedes, alldrivers speak English, and fares are reasonable (cheaper than a Londoncab). U-Bahn and S-Bahn tickets cost from 1.30 euros (about £1) andcan be bought on the platform. Transport maps are clearly laid out. Geta 72-hour WelcomeCard for unlimited use on tram, U-Bahn and S-Bahnnetworks. It costs 23.90 euros, just over £19, for adults and covers theA-B zones, while the ABC-zone version which includes Potsdam costs25.90 euros (about £20.75) but up to three children under 15 travelfree so it is ideal for families. Shorter and longer duration cards areavailable. Buy from train stations, newsagents, or online atwww.visitberlin.de/en/welcomecard.

tours Berlin Tours offered by Sandeman’s New Europe(www.newberlintours.com) include a Third Reich Tour, a bike tour,an alternative city tour and many more variations. Tours start at 12euros, around the £10 mark, but they even offer a free guided tour.Those are very popular, so book in advance.

tour operatorsPackaged stays in Berlin are offered by companies including CrestaHolidays (www.crestaholidays.co.uk), DERtour(www.dertravel.co.uk), Kirker (www.kirkerholidays.com) andGerman Travel Centre (www.germantravelcentre.co.uk). Book

hotels with companies including Superbreak(www.superbreak.com).

tourist information Visit Berlin: www.visitberlin.deGerman National Tourist Office:www.germany.travel

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The greatsurvivors

uk uncovered n britain’s castles

By definition a castle is a private fortifiedresidence; as well as providing a home fortheir owners and families, castles werebuilt as defensive structures. While mostfortifications that we acknowledge as prop-er castles were built in the 500 years after

the Norman Conquest, many pre-date this.The first fortifications appeared in Britain from the

5th century BC; Maiden Castle (www.maidencastle.com)in Dorchester is one of the finest examples of an IronAge hill-fort. However, these earthworks were easilyovercome by the Romans, who replaced them with struc-tures made of wood, brick or stone.

Fine examples of these Roman structures still existtoday including Portchester Castle and Pevensey Castle(see www.english-heritage.org.uk for both), two-thirds of the towered walls of which still stand.Pevensey was the landing place of William the

Conqueror’s army in 1066 and his first defensive struc-ture was built within the walls of the old Roman fort.

He continued to build castles across Britain to defendhis line of retreat and within two weeks of landing, had

built castles at Hastings and Dover.On his ascendency to king, hegave his most loyalknights grants of landand permission tobuild castles; by thetime of his death in 1087 there were 86Norman castles in England.

The early motte and baileycastles – primarily anearthen mound andwooden tower – werelater rebuilt in stone, thefocus of which wasusually a large stonetower, such as the WhiteTower at the Tower ofLondon and that ofColchester Castle.

As society changedand the nobility wantedmore comfortable

They were built as a show of power and strength or to defend against the enemy beyond. Today,the remains of some 800 castles and fortresses dot the British countryside, more than 300 stillstanding tall and proud and defining many of our towns and landscapes. Julie Thompsondelves into their fascinating past

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dwellings, the functions fulfilled by castles becamebetter served by other buildings. The fate of manycastles was sealed during the Civil War when they wereattacked and either refortified by the opposing forces orleft in ruins. Some simply fell into disrepair, their stonesrecycled in churches or grand buildings.Today, many of Britain’s remaining castles offer an

entertaining insight into our history through historicalre-enactments and family-themed events.

london and the southThe home of British kings and queens for almost 1,000 years, Windsor Castle(www.royalcollection.org.uk/visit/windsorcastle) isthe oldest and largest inhabited castle in the world. Builtby William the Conqueror to secure the westernapproach to London, its easy access to the city andproximity to a royal hunting forest quickly identified itas a popular royal residence. The original Norman keep was rebuilt as the Round

Tower in 1170; today you can take the Conquer theTower tour to the top of one of the nation’s most iconiclandmarks. One of the capital's most iconic landmarks, the Tower

of London (www.hrp.org.uk/TowerofLondon) wasalso built by William I, not primarily as a royal residencebut as a fortress-stronghold, with the White Towerproclaiming the physical power and prowess of the newNorman monarch.It was latterly used as a prison as well as the infamous

place of execution of no less than three English queens –Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard and Lady Jane Grey –and, today, houses the Crown Jewels as well as offering afascinating insight into royal history. Royal connections abound in the south’s castles.

Hadleigh Castle, overlooking the Thames Estuary inEssex (see www.english-heritage.org.uk), was afavourite residence of Edward III following the HundredYears War and was the subject of a painting by Consta-ble. Little of it remains save for one tower; a sight thatwill become familiar to TV viewers watching theOlympic mountain biking finals on the adjacent circuit. The stunningly-beautiful Leeds Castle

(www.leeds-castle.com) in Kent was inhabited by six ofEngland’s Medieval queens as well as by Henry VIII andhis first wife, Catherine of Aragon. Kent’s equally-alluringHever Castle (www.hevercastle.co.uk) was the child-hood home of Anne Boleyn, passing in ownership toHenry VIII’s fourth wife, Anne of Cleves, and later Amer-ica-born Viscount Astor and his socialite wife, LadyAstor. A trip to the Medway towns should include the

imposing fortress of Rochester Castle as well as theElizabethan artillery fort at Upnor Castle (seewww.english-heritage.org.uk for both).One of the finest Tudor artillery castles in England,

built by the order of Henry VIII, Deal Castle can becombined with a visit to Dover Castle (bothwww.english-heritage.org.uk), spectacularly-locatedabove the White Cliffs of Dover. Its secret wartimetunnels and vivid recreation of the Dunkirk evacuation

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make for a great family day out. Set on the Kent/Sussex border, Bodiam Castle

(www.nationaltrust.org.uk/bodiam-castle) is theperfect example of a 14th century Medieval moatedcastle, with its impressive towers providing wonderfulviews of the Rother Valley.

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In the gatehouse is the original wooden portcullis,probably England’s oldest and a rare example of its kind. Arundel Castle (www.arundelcastle.org) overlooks

the River Arun in West Sussex and features an originalmotte, an artificial mound, over 100 feet (30 metres)high from the dry moat.

south westThe sweeping south west coastline is the perfect settingfor striking fortresses, and Dartmouth Castle (seewww.english-heritage.org.uk) occupies one of themost stunning settings in England. For more than 600years, the castle has guarded the narrow mouth of theRiver Dart; it was designed to protect Dartmouthharbour from attack by foreign vessels. Portland Castle, (see www.english-heritage.org.uk)

one of Henry VIII’s finest coastal forts, offers spectacularsea views from its vantage point overlooking PortlandHarbour in Dorset. The castle reopens on weekdays afterAugust 12. Corfe Castle (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/corfe-castle),

partially demolished in 1646 by the Parliamentarians, isone of England’s most evocative survivors of the EnglishCivil War. Explore the ruins and visit the pretty village,with its Medieval church tower. A ferry to the Isle of Wight takes you to Carisbrooke

Castle, where King Charles I was imprisoned, andYarmouth Castle (both www.english-heritage.org.uk),the last and most sophisticated addition to Henry VIII’scoastal defences, with the first arrowhead artillerybastion built in England.Separated from the mainland by a causeway covered by

the sea at high water, St Michael’s Mount(www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk) has religious and histori-cal significance. An apparition of the Archangel St Michaelis said to have been witnessed by fishermen in 495BCwhile, in 1588, it was on St Michael’s Mount that the firstbeacon was lit to warn of the arrival of the Spanish Armada. Other fine Cornish castles include St Mawes (see

www.english-heritage.org.uk), one of the best-preserved of Henry VIII’s coast artillery fortresses whereyou can still see the Latin inscriptions in praise of Henryand his son Edward VI on its walls, and the magicalTintagel Castle (also www.english-heritage.org.uk),said to be the birthplace of King Arthur and where youcan visit the nearby Merlin’s Cave.

midlands and central/eastern england One of Suffolk’s finest bastions, Framlingham Castle(see www.english-heritage.org.uk), was once therefuge of Mary Tudor before she became queen in 1553.The magnificent wall walk offers splendid views overthe mere. Warwick Castle (www.warwick-castle.com) is one

of England’s most famous tourist attractions, with ahistory going back almost 11 centuries. A walled build-ing in Warwick can be traced back to Saxon days,although William the Conqueror constructed a woodenmotte and bailey here in 1068. Today the owners, Merlin Entertainments Group,

offer an array of entertaining activities which recall thecastle’s historic roots.

Its quieter neighbour, Kenilworth Castle (seewww.english-heritage.org.uk), is best known as thehome of Robert Dudley, the great love of Queen Eliza-beth 1. As well as the ornate palace he created, Dudleydeveloped the famous gardens to impress his queen andyou can follow in her footsteps today in the

castles with accommodationAs well as serving as defensive structures, castles were built to provide accommodationfor their owners. These days, there are a number of castles where you can stay. George III set the tradition of allowing loyal servants to live at Hampton

Court (www.hrp.org.uk/HamptonCourtPalace) by grace and favour and,nowadays, self-catering apartments are available to stay in; Fish Court, situated inthe service wing of the old Tudor palace, sleeps up to six people while theGeorgian House, originally a kitchen, sleeps up to eight. At the foot of the South Downs, privately owned 900-year-old Amberley

Castle (www.amberleycastle.co.uk), is enclosed by a 60-foot (18m) curtainwall and working portcullis behind which is a luxurious country house hotel,while the 64 individually-designed bedrooms at Bovey Castle

(www.boveycastle.com), now a golf resort on DartmoorNational Park, are located in the original manor house

and private mews. Sudeley Castle (www.sudeleycastle.co.uk), inCheltenham, has country cottages midway betweenthe castle and the historic town of Winchcombe,while Kent’s lovely Hever Castle(www.hevercastle.co.uk) offers luxury bed andbreakfast within its Astor Wing. Ruthin Castle (www.ruthincastle.co.uk), in North

Wales and just 20 miles from Chester, is a romantic hotelsteeped in history, with notable owners of the castle including

monarchs Edward I, Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. Scotland’s Dalhousie Castle Hotel (www.dalhousiecastle.co.uk) is a

magnificent 13th century fortress set within acres of wooded parkland on thebanks of the River Esk. Madonna famously married Guy Ritchie in 2000 in exclusive Skibo Castle

(www.carnegieclub.co.uk), which is only open to members of the CarnegieClub and their guests. The club is currently considering applicationsfor new members for acceptance in 2012. Buying your owncastle might be easier....

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n Live like royaltyin Hever Castle

n Stay in 13th centuryDalhousie Castle

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authentically-recreated Elizabethan Garden. The impressive Lincoln Castle

(www.lincolnshire.gov.uk/visiting/historic-buildings/lincoln-castle)is home to the Lincoln Magna Carta, dating back to1215, as well as the Charter of the Forest, while Stoke-say Castle (see www.english-heritage.org.uk), set inpeaceful countryside near the Welsh border, is the oldestfortified manor house in England. The timber-framedgatehouse, stone tower and parish church are some of thebest-preserved examples of Medieval building in the UK.

northern englandHeading north, Conisbrough Castle(www.conisbroughcastle.org.uk), boasts the finestcircular Norman keep tower still surviving in England,while the splendid Richmond Castle (see www.english-heritage.org.uk), originally built tosubdue the unruly north of England, is now one of themost popular tourist attractions in North Yorkshire.Northumberland offers more than its fair share of

splendid castles, from Alnwick Castle (www.alnwickcastle.com), home of Hogwarts in thefirst two films in the Harry Potter series and one of thelargest inhabited castles in the UK, to the ruins of one ofEngland’s less famous castles, Dunstanburgh Castle

(www.nationaltrust.org.uk/dunstanburgh-castle);its rocky approach from Embleton beach makes it astriking walking destination. Bamburgh Castle (www.bamburghcastle.com) has

one of the most gorgeous settings, spanning nine acres ofland atop an outcrop of volcanic dolerite and sittingalmost 150ft (45m) above sea level. It is also one of theworld's most important Anglo Saxon archaeologicalsites.Further south, Prudhoe Castle

(see www.english-heritage.org.uk) was the onlycastle in Northumberland to resist the Scots, and itstowered walls enclose a fine Georgian mansion.Romantically-situated Lindisfarne Castle

(www.nationaltrust.org.uk/lindisfarne-castle), onHoly Island, is only accessible via a three-mile causewayand its dramatic perch on a rocky crag has spectacularviews. Originally a Tudor fort, it was converted into aprivate house in 1903 by Edwin Lutyens and it also haswell-preserved 19th century lime kilns which are amongthe largest in the country.You can walk the entire circuit of the impressive

remains of Berwick-upon-Tweed Castle and Ramparts(see www.english-heritage.org.uk), once one of themost important of all the border castles; over thecenturies that England and Scotland were in conflict, thecastle was a key objective for the armies of both nations.

scotland and northern ireland Scotland’s most famous and instantly recognisable castle,Edinburgh Castle (www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk) isperched on an extinct volcano and has been a strongholdfor over 3,000 years. In 1995, the Old and New Towns ofEdinburgh were inscribed as a World Heritage Site, andthe castle remains the city’s most important building. Stirling Castle (www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk) is a

great symbol of Scottish independence and the castle’s

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did you know?l No two castles are the same. This is due

to topography, taste, available materials,and the ability of the designer.

l The spiral stairs in castle towers weredesigned to ascend clockwise so as tomake the attackers expose more of theirbody and allow the defenders to use thesword in their right hand.

l The keep at Bridgnorth Castle inShropshire leans at 15 degrees, threetimes further than the Leaning Tower ofPisa, following an attempt to blow it upduring the Civil War.

l For a Christmas feast in 1206 atWinchester Castle, King John’s orders tothe sheriff included 1,500 chickens, 5,000eggs, 20 oxen, 100 pigs, and 100 sheep.

l The world’s oldest surviving football wasdiscovered at Stirling Castle; it was found

lodged in the rafters of the Palace. Madearound 1540, from a pig’s bladder and aleather skin, it is now held by Stirling’sSmith Art Gallery and Museum.

l A knight’s wages were 8d per day and hewas expected to serve for 40 days.

l 166 houses were pulled down in order tobuild Lincoln Castle.

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long, turbulent history is associated with great figuresfrom Scotland’s past such as William Wallace & MaryQueen of Scots. Balvenie Castle (www.historic-scotland.gov.uk)

has a vast, impressive curtain wall and the iron yett, thetwo-barred iron crossed-gate behind the main entrance,is unique in Scotland.Spectacular locations for castles are a given in Scot-

land; the dramatic cliff-top position of Dunnottar Castle(www.dunnottarcastle.co.uk) is one of the most stun-ning locations of any castle, while Eilean Donan Castle(www.eileandonancastle.com) is situated on an islandat the point where three great sea lochs meet,surrounded by amazing scenery. It also featured in theJames Bond film, The World is Not Enough. Glamis Castle (www.glamis-castle.co.uk), the

ancestral home of the Earls of Strathmore for over 600years and the setting for Shakespeare’s Macbeth, makesa magnificent wedding venue and was the childhoodhome of the Queen Mother. Carrickfergus Castle (www.doeni.gov.uk/niea)

has been an imposing monument on the NorthernIreland landscape for more than 800 years; don’t miss its17th century cannons. Situated beside CountyFermanagh's River Erne, Enniskillen Castle(www.enniskillencastle.co.uk), was built almost 600 years ago to guard one of the few passes into Ulster, while Dunluce Castle(www.northantrim.com/dunlucecastle.html), sitting on the north coast along the causeway coastalroute, is rumoured to house a castle ghost.

wales The castles of Wales vary in style, age and tradition andCardiff Castle (www.cardiffcastle.com) evokes its historyin many ways. In its 2,000 years, the castle has been aRoman garrison, a Norman stronghold and, in Victoriantimes, was transformed into a Gothic fairytale fantasy. Caernarfon Castle (www.caernarfon.com) is

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castle facts

possibly Wales’s most famous castle, built in 1283 byEdward I as not only a military stronghold but also as aseat of government and royal palace. The dark-stoned fortress that is Conwy Castle

(www.conwy.com) has a commanding position abovethe Conwy estuary in the pretty, walled town of Conwy.Constructed by Edward I between 1283 and 1289 as akey fortress in his iron ring of castles to contain theWelsh, the intimidating presence of this magnificentstructure is undimmed by time. Other Welsh Edwardian castles include: Harlech

Castle (www.harlech.com), which almost appears as ifkeeping a watchful eye over Snowdonia; PembrokeCastle (http://pembroke-castle.co.uk), noteworthy asthe only castle in Britain to be built over a natural cavernand also the birthplace of Henry VII in 1457; andDenbigh Castle (www.denbigh.com/castle.html), withits striking, triple-towered Great Gatehouse. Beaumaris Castle (www.beaumaris.com), on the

island of Anglesey, is the great unfinished masterpiece ofthe iron ring; money and supplies ran out before thefortifications reached their full height.

“Manycastles offeranentertaininginsight intoour historythrough re-enactmentsand family-themedevents”

organisationsMany of the castles featured are owned oroperated by English Heritage (www.english-heritage.org.uk) andannual membership – £47 per adult withstudent, couple and senior discountsavailable – gives free access to all thecastles and properties mentioned. Fordetails of individual castles mentioned, seethe listings detailed on the English Heritagewebsite: www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties. TheNational Trust (www.nationaltrust.org.uk) also looks after a numberof key castles; annual membership is £53 but family and child discountsare available.

castle holidaysAs well as booking directly with individual properties offeringaccommodation, several companies can put together castle stays. StatelyEscapes (www.statelyescapes.co.uk) organises group stays in luxurycastles, as well as castle weddings. The Landmark Trust(www.landmarktrust.org.uk) has a vast range of castles and forts, aswell as towers and follies for short breaks or special occasions. ScottsCastle Holidays (www.scottscastles.com) is a holiday lettings agencywhich offers the chance to rent castles throughout Scotland as part of

its inventory, as does Cottages and Castles (http://cottages-and-castles.co.uk).

interesting informationIf you are a true castle buff and want toknow more about the castlesmentioned and many that we haven’t,check out Castle Xplorer(www.castlexplorer.co.uk), which has

castle listings for England, Scotland andWales with history and general information.

n Dunnottar Castle'sspectacular setting

n Caerphilly Castle

n King's bedroomat Dover Castle

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British Airways is extending its popularLondon City to Ibiza flights and will nowbe operating all year round. To celebrate,tlm has teamed up with British Airways togive you the opportunity to win a shortbreak to Spain’s beautiful White Island,

Ibiza, to escape those winter blues in this fabulous andeasy-to-enter competition.

You can WIN a three-night break for two peopleflying from London City Airport with British Airwaysand staying at the retro-styled Hotel Ocean Drive,located in Ibiza Town’s trendy marina.

A member of Design Hotels, Hotel Ocean Drive isunlike most hotels, with breakfast served until 4pm –perfect for those lazy mornings. Each of the 40 elegantguest rooms is fitted out in mellow tones of lavender andchocolate, with views of either the sparkling Mediter-ranean Sea or Ibiza’s mountain vistas.

During your stay, you can take advantage of theworld-famous Pacha nightclub located just a short walk

away from the hotel or take it easy with lunch at oneof the marina’s restaurant before working it offwith a leisurely cycle along the marina.

The prize is a short break (Thursday toSunday) to Ibiza, flying with British Airwaysfrom London City Airport with three nights’accommodation on a bed and breakfast basis atHotel Ocean Drive. It is worth approximately£1,200. The short break must be taken between

November 1, 2012, and March 31, 2013, and issubject to availability. A minimum 21 days’ notice is

required to book the prize trip.

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competition n british airways ibiza break

WIN a three-night Ibiza break with British Airways and the retro Hotel Ocean Drive – worth £1,200

how to enterFor a chance to WIN this fabulous three-night breakto Ibiza for two people worth £1,200, simply answerthe following question:

Question:Ibiza is part of which group of islands?a) The Canary Islandsb) The Balearic Islandsc) The Shetland Islands

To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and clickon Competitions. Closing date is September 30, 2012.Terms & conditions apply; see website for details.

For more information on British Airways, go towww.ba.com, and for further details on HotelOcean Drive, go to www.oceandrive.es.

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With so much to see and do in the ScottishHighlands, you don’t want to rush a tour.It is possible to take in the main sights ina week-long circuit, but our suggestedtour is a more leisurely 12 days.Beginning and ending in Edinburgh, you

can either fly there and rent a car for the trip or take yourown car, adding a day or two for the drive each way.

day 1 edinburgh

Distance: 0 milesExplore: Spend a day visiting Edinburgh’s sights.

Towering over the city is its world-famous icon, Edin-burgh Castle (www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk), and itmakes a great city tour starting point with its wonderfulrampart views, atmospheric dungeons and Great Hallamong highlights. The nearby Camera Obscura (www.camera-obscura.co.uk) is worth a visit,particularly for children, as is the National Museum ofScotland (www.nms.ac.uk). Stroll along the RoyalMile to Holyrood Palace(www.royalcollection.org.uk) – or the Palace of Holy-roodhouse, to give the official name.Take in the sweeping vistas of the city from Arthur’s Seat.

Overnight: Stay in a city-centre hotel and leave the car

there to explore Edinburgh on foot.

day 2 edinburgh-pitlochry

Distance: 70 milesDriving time: 1 hour 30 minutes plus stops

The drive:A short drive today takes you via Perth toPitlochry, perhaps stopping off en route to visit historicDunkeld. The Highland Perthshire area aroundPitlochry is beautiful, with lochs, rivers, waterfalls,glens and rugged hills. Pitlochry has many walks starting and ending in the

town centre, including one to the dam on Loch Faskallyto see the salmon ladder and hydro station. Go in autumnand you can catch the Enchanted Forest (www.enchantedforest.org.uk) sound and light show inFaskally Wood, which runs from October 5-27 this year.North of Pitlochry is Blair Castle

(www.blair-castle.co.uk), Scotland’s most-visitedhistoric house. You can also tour Edradour Distillery(www.edradour.co.uk) – Scotland’s smallest.Highlight: Close to Dunkeld, Loch of the Lowes(http://scottishwildlifetrust.org.uk) offers the chanceto watch nesting ospreys from the visitor centre hideand see cute red squirrels. Overnight: Pitlochry has several hotels, guest housesand B&Bs.

Summer 2012 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 27

With its stirring scenery of rugged mountains, deep lochs, forests and islands, not to mention its manyhistoric castles, the Highlands of Scotland make an evocative touring route. Join us for the ride…

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day 3 pitlochry-aviemore

Distance: 100 milesDriving time: 3 hours plus stops

The drive: Head north-west through Deeside via Brae-mar and past Scotland’s largest ski centre, Glenshee,through the Cairngorms National Park. This mountain-ous area was chosen by Queen Victoria as her holidayhang-out north of the border, and the Queen and othermembers of the Royal Family still spend several weeksof the year at Balmoral Castle. You can tour bothBalmoral (www.balmoralcastle.com) and Braemar(www.braemarcastle.co.uk) castles, which are onScotland’s Castle Trail.Visit the Braemar Highland Heritage Centre for a

taste of the Highlands and stop off at the village ofTomintoul, one of Britain’s highest, to visit its fascinat-ing museum about life on the edge of the CairngormMountains.Highlight:Visit Braemar on the first Saturday inSeptember to see the annual Braemar Gathering andHighland Games (www.braemargathering.org),featuring pipe bands, Highland dancers and sportsincluding caber tossing.Overnight:Aviemore has a range of accommodationoptions.

day 4 aviemore

Distance: Local drivingExplore: Spend the day exploring scenic Speyside.Take a ride on the Strathspey Steam Railway(www.strathspeyrailway.co.uk) and visit area attrac-tions such as the Highland Folk Museum(www.highlandfolk.com), the Loch Garten OspreyCentre (www.rspb.org.uk/lochgarten), for anotherchance to see these magnificent birds, and GlenmoreVisitor Centre (www.forestry.gov.uk), set in a nativepine forest at the foot of Cairn Gorm mountain. Closeby is the Cairngorm Reindeer Centre(www.cairngormreindeer.co.uk), where visitors canstroke and feed the resident reindeer.The Aviemore area offers lots of adventure activities,

among them dog sledding trips on purpose-built drylandtrails at the Cairngorm Sleddog Centre (www.sled-dogs.co.uk). There is also extensive walk-ing terrain, including on Cairn Gorm. Take theCairngorm Mountain Railway funicular (www.cairngormmountain.org) for a guided walk tothe summit or down to the base station. Overnight:Aviemore.

Distance: 100 milesDriving time: 3 hours plus stops

The drive: Follow the Malt Whiskey Trail and visitfamous distilleries such as The Glenlivet Distillery(www.theglenlivet.com), which offers a free guided

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tour and tasting. See whiskey barrels being made atBritain’s only cooperage with a visitor centre, SpeysideCooperage (www.speysidecooperage.co.uk).Follow the tourist route skirting the Moray Firth to

Inverness, capital of the Highlands, which passes byCawdor Castle (www.cawdorcastle.com), of Macbethfame, and the Culloden Battlefield(www.nts.org.uk/culloden), where there is a visitorcentre and exhibition which details the bloody 1746battle and how it led to the breakdown of the Highlandclan system.Highlight: If you reach Inverness early enough, take anafternoon dolphin cruise to spot the world’s mostnortherly group of bottlenose dolphins. Alternatively,drive on around to the Black Isle for a close-up viewfrom the shore at Chanonry Point, the best time beingjust before high tide.Overnight: Stay in the centre of Inverness. Hotelsinclude the five-star Rocpool Reserve(http://rocpool.com).

day 6 inverness-ullapool

Distance: 200 milesDriving time: 5 hours 30 minutes plus stops

The drive: Head south to Loch Ness after stopping offto visit the Scottish Kiltmaker Visitor Centre(www.highlandhouseoffraser.com) in Inverness,where you can see exhibitions, watch kiltmakers at workand even buy your own made-to-measure kilt.Take a Loch Ness cruise to try and spot Nessie and to

visit the impressive ruins of Urquart Castle(www.historic-scotland.gov.uk). If you want to take inthe full majesty of the loch, do a circular drive, withviews on high from the rugged southern side.You can take the direct cross-country route to Ullapool,

stopping off to visit the Highland Museum of Childhood(www.highlandmuseumofchildhood.org.uk) in theold Strathpeffer station building. Or you can take theBeauly-Dingwall-Moray Firth tourist route which loopsround to Loch Fleet Nature Reserve, near Skibo Castle,before heading to west coast fishing communityUllapool – laid out by engineer Thomas Telford. Highlight: The Falls of Shin (www.fallsofshin.co.uk)are spectacular waterfalls and one of the best places inScotland to see salmon leaping. Late summer is primetime, although they can be seen between May andNovember. Overnight: Stay in a hotel or B&B in Ullapool.

day 7 ullapool-skye

Distance: 190 miles Driving time: 5 hours 30 minutes plus stops

The drive: Follow the coast south via Gairloch,where you can take a cruise for the chance to see resi-dent killer whales and seals, otters and migratinghumpback and minke whales. The stretch of roadbetween Dundonnell and Poolewe is one of Scotland’s

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day 5 aviemore-inverness

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most spectacular coastal routes.Carry on round to the Applecross Peninsula, driving

the stunning Bealach na Ba mountain pass, for a pit stopor optional overnight in Applecross village with viewsover the sea to Skye. Book ahead if you want a meal atthe award-winning Applecross Inn(www.applecross.uk.com/inn). Then tackle the passagain on your way to Skye via its road bridge. Highlight: Bealach na Ba, or Bealach nam Bo as it isalso known, is Britain’s only true alpine road. Zig-zagging to over 2,050ft (625m) from sea level in fivemiles, it is all single track and is not for the faint-hearted – as warning signs at the start point out.Overnight: Stay in Portree on the Isle of Skye; other-wise stop for the night at the Applecross Inn, which hasseven B&B rooms.

day 8 skye-fort william

Distance: 150 miles Driving time: 4 hours plus stops

The drive: Explore Skye’s Trotternish Peninsula firstthing, then hit the road back to the mainland. On theway, stop off to take a guided tour of Eilean DonanCastle (www.eileandonancastle.com) – one of Scot-land’s most iconic and beautiful castles, situated on anisland in Loch Duich and reached via a causeway.Fort William, at the southern end of the Great Glen, is

a major tourist centre with plenty of things to do and see.If you have the time, take the Jacobite Steam Train(www.westcoastrailways.co.uk/jacobite/Jacobite_Steam_Train.html)on the spectacular six-hour round trip to Mallaig. The

train will be familiar to Harry Potter fans, as it was usedas the Hogwarts Express.Highlight: Ben Nevis looms over Fort William and youcan take the Nevis Range Mountain Resort gondola2,130ft (650m) up for panoramic views and mountainwalks or to dine on high in its restaurant. www.nevisrange.co.ukOvernight: Fort William has a wide range of hotels,including the luxury Inverlochy Castle Hotel(www.inverlochycastlehotel.com), as well as manyB&Bs.

day 9 fort william-tobermory

Distance: 140 milesDriving time: 5 hours 30 minutes plus stops (includingferry to Mull)

The drive: Instead of heading straight down the coastto Oban, take a detour at Loch Leven through Glencoeon the A82, looping back to the coast on the A85. Glen-coe not only has some of the most dramatic scenery inScotland, particularly if there are dark clouds above it,but it is also the scene of one of Scotland’s darkestmoments – the infamous massacre of MacDonald clans-men by British soldiers in 1692. Much of Glencoe is owned by the National Trust

for Scotland (www.glencoe-nts.org.uk) and a visitorcentre tells the story of the valley’s landscape andhistory. Take the chairlift up 2,200ft (670m) to the topof Glencoe Mountain Resort(www.glencoemountain.com) for stunning views ofGlencoe and desolate Rannoch Moor.

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You could head up the Loch Linnhe coast to visit theScottish Sea Life Sanctuary(www.sealsanctuary.co.uk/oban1.html), which hasan aquarium and rehabilitates seal pups, before takingthe ferry from Oban to Mull.Highlight:Mull’s main town, Tobermory, is the mostpicturesque on Scotland’s west coast, with its brightly-coloured houses lining the harbour. Mull is a wildlifehaven and home to both golden eagles and white-tailedsea eagles.Overnight: Tobermory: accommodation ranges fromself-catering and B&Bs to hotels.

day 10 tobermory-loch lomond

Distance: 140 milesDriving time: 4 hours 30 minutes plus stops (includingferry from Mull)

The drive: Explore some of Mull’s heritage and sights,then board the ferry at Craignure for the 45-minutecrossing back to Oban. From there, follow the sceniccoast tourist route south to Loch Fynne, Scotland’slongest sea loch, and the beautiful and historic town ofInveraray. Among its attractions are the fascinatingInveraray Jail & County Court(www.inverarayjail.co.uk) and the magnificent Inver-aray Castle (www.inveraray-castle.com), home to theDuke of Argyll.Head on to Loch Lomond, skirting the Argyll Forest.

Highlight: Take a cruise on Loch Lomond fromseveral points. The largest lake in the UK, it measures27 miles (43km) long by up to five miles (8km) wideand has nearly 40 islands. Overnight: Balloch, at the southern end, is LochLomond’s main tourism centre and has most accommo-dation options.

day 11 loch lomond-stirling

Distance: 80 miles (including Trossachs loop)Driving time: 2 hours 30 minutes plus stops

The drive: The landscape of the Trossachs andLomond is among the most scenic and iconic in Scot-land, recognised by the creation of the Loch Lomond &The Trossachs National Park (www.lochlomond-trossachs.org) 10 years ago to

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scottish highlands driving facts

conserve its 720 square miles (1,865 sq km). The heather-covered hills and mountains are as typically Scottish ascene as the Highland cattle you encounter here.Take a leisurely exploration of the area, visiting places

including the Trossachs Discovery Centre and LochKatrine (www.lochkatrine.com), where you can cruiseon the steamship Sir Walter Scott. It is named after theauthor who romanticised the region and turned a local18th century outlaw, Rob Roy, into a global hero throughhis books. You can see Rob Roy’s grave in a churchyard atthe village of Balquhidder and learn more about him inthe Rob Roy & Trossachs Visitor Centre in Callander. Head on to Stirling via Dunblane.

Highlight:An imposing edifice, Stirling Castle(www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk) is a must-visit and itsposition atop an extinct volcano even rivals mightyEdinburgh Castle.Overnight: Take your pick from Stirling’s vast array ofplaces to stay.

day 12 stirling-edinburgh

Distance: 40 milesDriving time: 1 hour plus stops

The drive: Head back to Edinburgh on the A9 touristroute, passing the site of the Battle of Bannockburn,fought in 1314, en route.

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when to goSnow is possible in the Highlands right upuntil late spring and from autumn, butyou can also get very settled periods ofweather outside the main summertourist season.

driving distanceThe suggested circular driving route fromEdinburgh through the Highlands totals around1,250 miles (just over 2,000km), not including local driving. Getting toand from Edinburgh by car from London will add another 800 miles(about 1,290km) to the total. Or you can fly to Edinburgh and rent a car.

driving toursDriving in the Highlands is generally on good quality roads but major routescan be busy. Several companies put together personalised self-drive Highlandtours. They include Scotland Made Easy (www.scotlandmadeeasy.co.uk),Absolute Escapes (www.absoluteescapes.com) and Secret Scotland(www.secret-scotland.com).

InformationGet more information from sites including Undiscovered Scotland(www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk) and Scotland in a Week(www.scotlandinaweek.com), who also provide guide services.Tourism information sites include VisitScotland(www.visitscotland.com) and the official VisitScotland Highlands site(www.visithighlands.com).

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What: Festival No 6Where: Portmeirion, North WalesWhen: September 14-16, 2012

Festival No 6 is a unique event –a music, arts and cultural festivalunlike any other and in anextraordinary setting.

It is situated in Port-meirion, anelaborate inter-pretation of aMediterraneanvillage in NorthWales and theformer home ofSixties cult TVseries The Prisoner,starring Patrick McGoohan, fromwhich the festival takes its name.

The festival is taking placeover the weekend of September14-16 with musical highlights

including headliningacts such as NewOrder, PrimalScream and Spiritu-alized. They will bejoined by, among

others, British SeaPower, Richard Hawley,

Everything Everything andBeth Jeans Houghton.

This diverse boutique festivalnot only features an eclectic rangeof music to suit all tastes but alsoencompasses cinema screenings,

street theatre, prose and poetryreadings, midnight masquerades,cliff-top comedy stages, secretparties, impromptu interactivemoments and even the opportu-nity to participate in culturallectures and debates.

The wide range of accommoda-tion covers everything from thepalatial rooms within historic CastellDeudraeth to individual gatehouses,towers and cottages in the village, allwith their own unique character, aswell as luxury yurts, tipis and bell

tents. Or, if you prefer, you cansimply bring your own tent. Wher-ever you sleep, you’ll wake tostunning views of Snowdonia andthe River Dwyryd estuary.

This innovative event seeks tooffer an alternative to the often clut-tered and repetitive UK festivalcircuit by combining cutting edgeand iconic musical acts with a rangeof unique alternative activities.

For more information and tickets go online to www.festivalnumber6.com.

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events focus n festival no 6

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resort report n st petersburg/clearwater

Clearwaterrevival

The thrill of Orlando’s theme parks is the mainattraction for many of the 1.3 million UK visi-tors that flock to Florida annually. Yet there’smuch more than Mickey Mouse in one of theworld’s most popular holiday destinations. Just90 minutes away from cartoon characters and

white-knuckle rides, a very different corner of Florida iswaiting to be explored. The neighbouring resorts of StPetersburg and Clearwater overlooking the Gulf of Mexicooffer wonderful beaches for those in search of rest andrelaxation and a surprisingly-diverse range of attractionsthat are the perfect antidote to the busy theme parks.

On the doorstep to the east is Tampa, one of the mainairline gateways. Home to top sports teams, festivals andcultural charms, it’s another reason for visitors to warmto the west coast of Florida.

on the beachThe 35 miles of white sands are a playground for sunworshippers and water sports enthusiasts alike. LivelyClearwater beach, with its playground, free surf wheel-chairs for the disabled and plenty of nearby restaurants,has something for everyone.

This year, St Pete Beach, one of the few surfingspots along the Gulf of Mexico, was voted TripAdvi-sor’s top American beach and number five in the world.Nature lovers should head for Indian Shores, wheresand grasses and sea grapes grow on the dunes and thefree-admission Suncoast Seabird Sanctuary(www.seabirdsanctuary.com) is the world’s largestbird hospital.

Idyllic outlying barrier islands include Honeymoon,reached by a causeway, and Caladesi, accessible by an

For those wanting to escape the high-octane thrill rides and razzmatazz of Orlando’s themeparks, Gulf of Mexico twin resorts St Petersburg and Clearwater will help recharge your batterieswhether you want to kick back on some of America’s best beaches or soak up some culture.Jeannine Williamson highlights some options

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hourly ferry service costing $14 for adults and $7 forchildren. Caladesi and Fort De Soto Park’s beach haveboth been named in the annual America’s Top 10Beaches list produced by coastal expert Dr StephenLeatherman, aka Dr Beach.

family funYoungsters will love meet-ing Winter the dolphin,star of last year’s filmDolphin Tale, at Clear-water Marine Aquarium(www.seewinter.com),along with rays, sea turtlesand otters. There are moreface to face encounters withmarine life on the 90-minute Sea Life Safari naturecruise (www.sealifesafaricruise.com) from Clearwa-ter Beach Marina. And for a swashbuckling adventure,Captain Memo’s Original Pirate Cruise (www.captainmemo.com) includes treasure hunts,storytelling and water-gun battles.Back on dry land, Clearwater’s Pier 60 is a popular

destination with its giant inflatable slides and each nightthere’s a fantastic atmosphere at the free family-friendlysunset celebration (www.sunsetsatpier60.com) withstreet entertainers and colourful craft stalls.Great Explorations: The Children’s Museum

(www.greatexplorations.org) is packed with fun-filledexperiences including a giant tree house and robot-makingworkshop, while science comes to life through more than450 engaging hands-on exhibits at MOSI(www.mosi.org), the largest science centre in the south-eastern United States with a planetarium, ropes course andFlorida’s only IMAX Dome theatre.

cultureSt Petersburg/Clearwaterhas plenty of interest forculture vultures. Theflagship Dali Museum(www.thedali.org), withits striking architecturalfeatures, houses America’slargest collection of theSpanish artist’s work.Meanwhile, art from around theworld is showcased at the Museum of Fine Arts(www.fine-arts.org), including paintings by Monet,Renoir and Cezanne.Uncover fascinating local history at Fort De Soto Park

(www.fortdesoto.com), with its QuartermasterMuseum and last surviving cannons dating back to the1898 Spanish-American War. Largo’s open-air HeritageVillage (www.pinellascounty.org/heritage) provides aglimpse into the past with a collection of restored build-ings, including a school, church and homes, and carenthusiasts will want to make tracks to Tampa Bay Auto-mobile Museum (www.tbauto.org), with its finevintage cars and a replica of the world’s first self-propelled vehicle.

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shoppingThere’s nothing like a little retail therapy to help youunwind, and Florida’s Gulf Coast has shopping optionsto suit everyone from ardent shopaholics to windowshoppers; there are many craft shops if you want to takeback local art or a memento of your visit.

Serious shoppers are spoilt for choice, with some-thing like a dozen shopping malls in the area. Theyinclude Westfield Countryside Mall in Clearwater(www.westfield.com/countryside) plus several in andaround Tampa, among them Westfield Citrus Park(www.westfield.com/citruspark), International Plazaand Bay Street (www.shopinternationalplaza.com),which combines a covered mall with an open-air villageof restaurants and boutiques, WestShore Plaza(www.westshoreplaza.com) and discount shopping inthe 130 outlet stores at Ellenton Premium Outlets(www.premiumoutlets.com).

And if it’s curios or something arty you are lookingfor, downtown St Petersburg has a collection of boutiqueshops and galleries to browse while Dunedin offers fash-ion, jewellery, antique and speciality stores as well as artgalleries.

nightlife and diningClearwater’s nightlife scene offers everything fromoutdoor patio bars to New York-style nightclubs whileSt Petersburg has appeal for the younger, trendier crowdwith options from tapas bars to upscale wine bars andlounges and nightclubs.

Chic venue Vintage Ultra Lounge (http://vintageultralounge.com) in downtown StPetersburg is a combination of nightclub, lounge, bar andconcert venue, with the best DJs and local live bandswhile the newly-reopened V Tampa Bay (http://thevtampabay.com) in Clearwater offersthemed disco nights alongside the best of today’s musicscene.A variety of restaurants for all tastes can be found,

and, unsurprisingly, great seafood is top of the list. The

speciality of the area is grouper – succulent white fish,most commonly grilled, blackened or fried. Try it beach-side in a sandwich at Frenchy’s Rockaway Grill(http://frenchysonline.com) or head to the Salt RockGrill (www.saltrockgrill.com) overlooking the Intra-coastal Waterway at Indian Shores for the best in allseafood as well as wood-fired steaks.

Elsewhere, Latin and Spanish influences abound andnowhere more so than at the Columbia restaurants(www.columbiarestaurant.com) – family owned andoperated for over 100 years – with their old-world charmand award-winning Spanish/Cuban cuisine. Located atthe Pier in St Petersburg and on the Intracoastal Water-way in Sand Key, Clearwater Beach. The originallocation is in Ybor City, Tampa.

days outYou don’t need to travelfar to explore St Peters-burg and Clearwater’s26 enchanting neigh-bourhood communities,all located within Pinel-las County. A wee corner ofScotland, albeit much sunnier,five miles north of Clearwater is the quaint town ofDunedin, the Gaelic name for Edinburgh; it is packedwith small galleries, pubs and attractive individualshops.

Home to the largest number of Greek settlers outsideGreece, riverside Tarpon Springs is lined with spongediving boats and baklava shops and has a Byzantine-style cathedral. Historic Largo boasts traditional Floridashops while pretty Gulfport, on St Petersburg/Clearwa-ter’s southern tip, has a vibrant art and crafts community.For outdoor enthusiasts, all these destinations, and more,can be reached on the Pinellas Trail, a tranquil 40-milecycle and walking path.

Alternatively, for a more adventurous outing in acompletely natural setting you can paddle your owncanoe or go on a guided expedition with Canoe Escape(www.canoeescape.com) along the Hillsborough River,which winds its way through to Tampa Bay. Excursionslast from two hours to a full day, and you can expect tosee a host of wildlife, including ibis, herons, egrets andalligators – just 15 miles from downtown Tampa!

Tampa has plenty of other attractions to keep visitorshappy on full-day or half-day outings. Busch Gardens(http://seaworldparks.com/en/buschgardens-tampa)combines thrill rides – the newest one being CheetahHunt – and shows with animals at attractions such asEdge of Africa and experiences including SerengetiSafari. There are more animals at Tampa’s Lowry ParkZoo (www.lowryparkzoo.com) and marine creaturesgalore at the Florida Aquarium (www.flaquarium.org)with exhibits including a coral reef, wetlands and abeach. The aquarium operates dolphin-spotting cruisesinto Tampa Bay. Spanish-flavoured heritage is on offer inTampa’s historic Ybor City neighbourhood.

Several of Florida’s crystal clear inland springs arealso an easy day trip away. Among them are Weeki

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Wachi Springs State Park (http://weekiwachee.com),with a “mermaid show”, boat tours, swimming,snorkelling and diving, and Homosassa Springs WildlifeState Park, where you can see manatees.

sporting chanceThere’s plenty of opportunity to catch a slice of thesporting action as this corner of Florida is home to threenational teams that are all in the major US leagues.American football team the Tampa Bay Buccaneers(www.buccaneers.com), or “Bucs” as they are known,play their home games at Tampa’s Raymond JamesStadium, where a pirate ship “fires” cannons when theyscore a touchdown. The Tampa Bay Rays (http://tampabay.rays.mlb.com)

baseball team play at Tropicana Field, St Petersburg,unique as being the world’s only professional sportsvenue with a tank of rays that fans can touch and feed. Ifa player hits a home run into the 10,000 gallon tank, theclub donates $5,000 to charity. Completing the trio is the ice hockey team Tampa

Bay Lightning (http://lightning.nhl.com) at the TampaBay Times Forum. Visitors will find it easy to buy tick-ets for all three venues, although if the Rays are playinghigh-profile teams such as the New York Yankees orBoston Red Sox, they should be booked well in advance.Away from spectator sports, there are excellent golf

facilities with more than 40 courses ranging fromrolling hills to waterside views. Among the historicclubs are the scenic Belleview Biltmore (www.belleviewbiltmoregolf.com) and Dunedin(www.dunedingolfclub.com), both designed by Scots-man Donald Ross, who laid the foundations of Americangolfing. Innisbrook (www.innisbrookgolfresort.com)boasts four championship courses and a school and hoststhe PGA Tour’s Transitions Championship.

stayAccommodation ranges from self-catering apartmentsand cosy B&Bs to luxurious resort-style properties. Oneof the most historic properties is the landmark DonCeSar Beach Resort (www.loewshotels.com) thatopened in 1928 a few miles west of St Petersburg; it isdubbed the “pink palace”. Ideal for families is Clearwa-ter’s Sandpearl Resort (www.sandpearl.com), wherethe Camp Ridley children’s activity programme isthemed around Florida’s animals and ecosystems.

Pier Hotel (www.thepierhotel.com), dating back to1921, is an atmospheric boutique property and St Peters-burg’s oldest continuously-operating hotel. A goodchoice for a romantic escape for couples is Hotel Isis(www.isisbeachhotel.com), in a quiet beachside spotmidway between St Petersburg’s and Clearwater’sbeaches. Rooms are only a few steps from the sand,where there are hammocks and beachside tables forsunset dining.

36 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 2012

resort report n st petersburg/clearwater

st petersburg/clearwater facts

Freelance travel writerJeannine Williamsonfirst discovered the “otherside” of Florida when shecompleted the Walt DisneyWorld Marathon inOrlando and then moveddown a gear to relax bythe Gulf Coast.

when to goThis part of Florida’s Gulf Coast holds theGuinness World Record for the longestrun of consecutive sunny days – 768 –and enjoys an annual average of 361days of sunshine. With temperaturesreaching 32°C in July and August andhovering around 15°C in winter, it’s ayear-round destination.

getting thereBritish Airways (www.ba.com) flies direct to Tampa from Gatwick. BAand Virgin Atlantic (www.virgin-atlantic.com) fly direct from Gatwickto Orlando and Virgin also flies non-stop from Manchester and Glasgow.St Petersburg/Clearwater is 25 miles and around a 30-minute drivefrom Tampa and 107 miles from Orlando, a journey time of about 90minutes.

getting aroundThere is an airport to hotel shuttle service and, for visitors who don’t wantto hire a car, it’s easy to get around on local transport including theSuncoast Beach Trolley and St Petersburg Trolley that stop at all the mainattractions. Airport car hire, pre-bookable through Alamo, Budget, Hertz,Dollar and other companies, is best for those who want to explore furtherafield and the interstate highway 1-275 connects St Petersburg/Clearwaterwith the 1-75 running the length of Florida’s west coast.

pricesEating out is cheaper than the UK withmany fixed-price “all you can eat” buffetsthat are great for families. You can pickup a take-away burger for a couple ofdollars and pay around $10-15 for a sit-down burger meal and drink. Maincourses cost $20 upwards in gourmet

restaurants.

tour operatorsHolidays are offered by companies including British Airways Holidays(www.britishairways.com/holidays), Virgin Holidays(www.virginholidays.co.uk), Cosmos (www.cosmos.co.uk), TravelCity Direct (www.travelcitydirect.com), Thomson Holidays(www.thomson.co.uk) and Jetsave (www.jetsave.com).

tourist informationVisit Florida: www.visitflorida.comVisit St Petersburg/Clearwater: www.visitstpeteclearwater.com

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Fancy getting away from it all to savour apampered stay in one of the most beauti-ful bays in the world after a relaxing,

first-class train journey? Win our fantastic competition and you

could be doing just that, as tlm has teamed upwith Cornwall’s Carbis Bay Hotel and traincompany First Great Western to offer onelucky reader a two-night break for two in thestunning surroundings of Carbis Bay, near StIves.

The Carbis Bay Hotel is the perfect place tounwind and enjoy the best that Cornwall has tooffer, with its individually-furnished hotelrooms and sea-view holiday apartments, fine-dining restaurant and outdoor heatedswimming pool. It is also the only hotel in theUK to boast its own private Blue Flag beach,with direct access to 25 acres of golden sand.

Paradise is closer than you think with one ofCornwall’s finest beach destinations just a relax-ing train journey away from London. You cantravel in comfort and avoid the traffic jams withFirst Great Western’s direct service to Cornwall,

which includes power points in all coaches andPullman silver service dining on selected depar-tures for a luxurious treat to start your break.

The prize includes two nights’ dinner, bedand breakfast for two people, sharing a doubleor twin room, and a pair of first-class returnrail tickets from London Paddington to CarbisBay. It is worth up to £740. The break can betaken any time between November 1, 2012 andMarch 23, 2013, subject to availability.

For more information on The Carbis BayHotel, go to www.carbisbayhotel.co.uk.

Summer 2012 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 37

WIN a luxury Cornish rail and stay getaway, worth up to £740

competitions n luxury cornish break + shropshire cottage stay

Surrounded by natural beautywith stunning gardens andgrounds, the 12th centuryCombermere Abbey estate inShropshire includes formalwalled gardens, woodlands,parkland and an expansive lake.

At its heart are Combermere’saward-winning, five-star cottages,converted into stylish self-catering accommodation fromthe Abbey’s stables, coach houseand Gothic stone gatehouse. The10 cottages sleep between fourand 10 guests and were designedand decorated by Abbey ownerSarah Callander Beckett.

The cottages are popular withcouples, families and groups offriends; dogs are welcome, too.Activities guests can enjoy

include tranquil walks throughthe woods and parkland,swimming in the lake, tennis,cycling and exploring the walledgarden, with its glasshouse,pavilion and fruit tree maze.

Stays are even more relaxingwith extras such as dinner onarrival, wine in the fridge, organicspa treatments, local food

hampers and frozen meals, usinglocally-sourced produce fromthe local farm shop.

A new flat-rate pricingstructure means that guests paythe same for a three-night,midweek stay all year, other thanover the festive period, with ratesfrom £360 (sleeping up to four)to £900 (cottages sleeping 10).

You can win a three-night,midweek stay in a cottagesleeping up to four guests in thisgreat competition. Your stay willalso include a welcome tea trayand a hamper crammed full ofbreakfast goodies including farm-fresh bacon, eggs and juices, withpreserves made from theAbbey’s own fruits.

The prize is worth £400, issubject to availability and mustbe taken by the end of March,2013, subject to availability,arriving Monday and departingThursday.

For more information onCombermere’s cottages, visitwww.combermereabbey.co.uk.

how to enter

To WIN a two-night stay for two at theCarbis Bay Hotel, including return first-classrail tickets from London, simply answer thisquestion:

Question: What hasCarbis Bay Beachbeen awarded?a) Green Flagb) Blue Flagc) Red Flag

To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click onthe Competitions button. Closing date isSeptember 25, 2012. See website for terms& conditions.

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WIN a £400 three-night, midweek stay in a five-star cottage set in a private Shropshire estate

how to enterTo WIN a three-night, midweekstay in a cottage atCombermere Abbey, simplyanswer this question:

Question: How many cottagesdoes Combermere Abbey have?

To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.ukand click on the Competitionsbutton. Closing date isSeptember 25, 2012. Seewebsite for terms & conditions.

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39 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 2012

travel fare n tapas & seville, spain

Boasting more than 4,000 tapasbars, Spain’s fourth-largest cityand the capital of southernprovince Andalucia is the epicen-tre for the country’s traditionalsharing snack food. You’ll find

them cheek by jowl throughout the city, andlocals often hop from one bar to the next tograze appetisers before lunch or dinner.Friends sometimes make a complete meal ofthem, trying a few dishes in each bar withone person paying for the meal at each stop.

originsTapas literally means lid, and the term is said tohave derived from the practice of puttingchunks of bread or slices of salty ham overglasses of sherry to deter fruit flies. Over timethe bread became embellished with other localingredients and became more elaborate sidedishes of appetising snacks to eat with thedrinks. Bars and restaurants will generally offera selection of tapas, served in small dishes.

the dishThe appetisers encompassed by the term tapascome from all over Spain with each regionhaving its own specialities. Popular tapassnacks include olives, calamari, patatas bravasand tortilla (Spanish omelette), while Sevillespecials include cured ham, tortillitas decamarones (shrimp fritters) and cold soupssuch as gazpacho, ajo blanco and salmorejo.Wash them down with a local fino sherry

or a beer.

the cityWith influences from occupiers including theRomans, Moors, Phoenicians and Carthagini-ans as well as the New World (Christopher

Columbus is buried in its ornate cathedral)Seville is an intoxicating blend of eleganthistory, Andalucian tradition (bullfighting,flamenco and sherry all originate from thearea) and modern (Seville hosted Expo ’92and several of the futuristic buildings remain).

where to eat tapas in seville

l El Rinconcillo (+34 954 223 183): Seville’soldest bar dates back to 1670 and, while atourist magnet, is a must visit with its greatatmosphere and cheap tapas.

l Las Columnas (+34 954 388 106): Good-value tapas bar near the cathedral withgreat food (try the ensaladilla potato salad),but seats are at a premium and it getscrowded.

l Bar Eslava (+34 954 906 568): Often stand-ing room only in this favourite in SanLorenzo, the tapas is worth it; solomillo alwhisky (sirloin in whisky sauce) anyone?

where to eat tapas in london

l Barrafina in Soho(www.barrafina.co.uk): Sourcing notsaucing is the motto of this always-busySpanish tapas restaurant, where seafood is aspeciality.

l Barcelona Tapas Bar & Restaurant(www.barcelona-tapas.com): Stylingitself the “authentic taste of Spain inLondon”, this mini-chain has been aroundfor over 20 years and has two City locationsplus one in Dulwich. Good portions andambience.

For some tapas recipes, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk/s/recipes

LightbitesThe latest in our series onfamous dishes and their originfocuses on Spain’s ubiquitoustapas and Seville, regarded asits heartland

seville facts

getting there: easyJet(www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair(www.ryanair.com) fly directfrom GatwickandStansted;otherairlinesfly viaMadridandBarcelona.

when to go: Enjoy tapas any timeof year but, for a week during theannual Feria de Abril (Spring Fair),the city’s Los Remedios area is ahuge party of flamenco dancing,drinking, bullfights and tapas eating.It takes place from April 16-21 in2013.

gourmet trip: A seven-daygourmet holiday with Tasting Places(www.tastingplaces.com) costsfrom £1,795 per person staying ina historic city-centre hotel andincludes cookery classes, a markettrip, visits to local wine, ham andolive oil producers with tastings,plus some meals.

information: Spanish NationalTourist Office www.spain.info

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When the lazy, hazy days of summerdraw to a close and a chill returns tothe air at night, most people’s holidaythoughts are either fast-fadingmemories or involvemaking plans for the

following year.But for those not tied to taking

their annual sojourn during thesummer school break, autumnrepresents a great time to go onholiday.

Mainland Europe often basksin warm sun well into October,with the Mediterranean’s sunshineresorts still pleasantly warm. Notonly can you escape the crowdedbeaches of high season, but there are usually

some terrific deals to be had as well with airlines keen tofill seats before the flying season ends and hotels want-ing to boost occupancy rates.

For one type of holiday, autumn is high season,however. Leaf peeping, autumn colours or fall

foliage tours – whatever you call them,they are the holidays which celebrate

nature’s annual spectacle when leavesturn to glorious hues from dazzlingyellows and rich oranges to fieryreds.

Traditionally associated with thechocolate-box villages of New

England, they have become so popularthere that tours fill up months in

advance and accommodation has to bebooked way ahead in many areas.

While few areas outside of New England

40 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 2012

Foreverautumn

Don’t pack away your suntan lotion, swimming costumes or flip flops when summer ends. Thereare lots of holiday options available throughout the autumn, from Mediterranean sunshine escapesto cruises or short breaks on temperate Guernsey. It is also the time to see spectacular foliagedisplays and when you can enjoy nature’s bountiful harvest, as Peter Ellegard reports

seasonal focus n autumn getaways

Visit Guernsey

n Guernsey's SaumarezPark in autumn

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seasonal focus n autumn getaways

are sold specifically for leaf-viewing tours, the phenom-enon is not just confined to the region. Autumn colourdisplays can be seen in many areas of North Amer-ica, from Eastern Canada right down the EasternUS as well as in the Mid-West. Even the RockyMountains and parts of the West Coast get in onthe act, too. Here, you can enjoy just as stunninga show but without the crowded roads andbooked-out accommodation.

foliage seasonCanada is a great option for leaf peeping with itsprofusion of forests, and days are still mild. The colourscan be seen throughout Atlantic Canada, Quebec andOntario in the east, and in the mountains of Alberta andBritish Columbia in the west.Atlantic Canada has many festivals that a tour can tie

in with, among them Prince Edward Island’s FallFlavours cuisine festival (www.fallflavours.ca), fromSeptember 7-30, and the Celtic Colours InternationalFestival (www.celtic-colours.com), a music and dancecelebration from October 5-13 across Nova Scotia’sCape Breton Island. Ontario’s Algonquin Park has superb autumn colours,

as does southern Quebec, where they are celebrated in

the Symphony of Colours festival at mountain resortTremblant (www.tremblant.ca), from September 8-October 14. Tour operators highlighting autumn colours inCanada include Frontier Canada (www.frontier-canada.co.uk) and Prestige Holidays(www.prestigeholidays.co.uk).North America’s foliage season runs from early

September to as late as November, the more north-ern areas seeing the leaves turn first.Several tourist offices track colour changes with

weekly reports online. They include PennsylvaniaTourism, which has a special section on its website(www.visitpa.com) during the season. New York Stateis another good option for leaf peeping, which can bedone on a Wine, Waters and Wonders tour combiningNiagara Falls, Rochester and the wineries and country-side of the Finger Lakes.The Capital Region is also good for viewing autumn

colours, particularly Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains.You can view them from on high in a hot air balloon, ona zipline in the Shenandoah Valley, on chairlifts atWintergreen Resort, on horseback, hiking through theShenandoah National Park and driving along the BlueRidge Parkway. Michigan, Ohio and Oregon’s stunning

Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

n Sunset at Menemsha, onMartha's Vineyard, Massachusetts

n Oxen at OldSturbridge Village

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Columbia River Highway, with its towering 620-footMultnomah Falls, also put on superb shows.

cranberries and pumpkinsBut it is New England that draws most visitors for itsspectacular foliage displays. Tours often take in severalof the six states, with the pretty mountain villages alongVermont’s Route 100 in the Green Mountains, Maine’sWhite Mountains and New Hampshire’s KancamagusHighway always popular. New England gateway state Massachusetts serves up

its own foliage delights with the rolling hills of the Berk-shires among the best places to enjoy the annualspectacle. The Jacob’s Ladder Scenic Byway(www.jacobsladderscenicbyway.org) weaves for 35miles between Lee and Russell, parallel to the Massa-chusetts Turnpike freeway but taking drivers back to a

timeless era through sleepy villages such as Hunt-ington. Stop off at the bright yellowHuntington Country Store (www.huntingtoncountrystore.com) tostock up with local goodies and souvenirsand try its famous wrapples, apple andcinnamon-filled pastries – the perfectlunch snack on an autumn day. Even citiessuch as Boston put on colourful shows.Autumn is far more than falling leaves,

though; it is a time of mellow days andharvests, and many places celebrate nature’s

bountiful gifts, even on the coast.Massachusetts’s Nantucket Island has been farming

cranberries for over 150 years, and October 6 will markthe harvest with the Nantucket Conservation Founda-tion’s 10th Annual Cranberry Festival(www.nantucketconservation.org) at MilestoneCranberry Bog with music, family activities and, ofcourse, fresh cranberries.Pumpkins abound in autumn across North America

and they feature strongly at events such as the YankeeCandle Village Fall Festival in South Deerfield, Massa-chusetts, in October, which includes pumpkindecorating.Autumn is a great time to explore the coastline of

Massachusetts’ Plymouth, Cape Cod and Islands region,with tour operator America As You Like It (www.americaasyoulikeit.com) featuring it on a nine-day tour that takes in Boston, Plymouth, with its PlimothPlantation living history museum depicting a pilgrimvillage and featuring a replica of the Mayflower, CapeCod’s bohemian Provincetown and the pristine Cape CodNational Seashore, Martha’s Vineyard and NantucketIsland. The tour operator also offers a 10-day SouthernNew England tour, much of it in Massachusetts and withmany outdoor activities to enjoy the changing seasons.

wine festivalsIn Vermont, the annual Killington Hay Festival(www.discoverkillington.com) runs for five weeksfrom September 3-October 8 and includes a collectionof over 40 giant hay animal sculptures throughout thetown plus daily and weekly family-friendly events andactivities.

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seasonal focus n autumn getaways

autumn colours – did you know?l The timing of autumn colour displays can vary as

the weather dictates when and how brilliant theyare. Late September and early October are gener-ally best for New England.

l The most intense colours are usually in easternareas of the US and Canada.

l Autumn colours are more brilliant in North Amer-ica because it has more deciduous tree speciesthan in Europe.

l Trees responsible for vibrant shades include maple,oak, hickory, dogwood, poplar, birch and aspen.

l The colours are produced by different pigments.Some create yellows and oranges, others reds andpurples.

l The onset of cooler weather after warm summerdays is the trigger.

l Higher elevations change colour earlier than lowerareas.

l Websites with up to date information and mapsduring the US leaf-viewing season from Septem-ber-November include the Foliage Network(www.foliagenetwork.com) and the WeatherChannel (www.weather.com).

“Autumn isfar morethan fallingleaves; it is atime ofmellow daysandharvests”

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Summer 2012 tlm � the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 47

and Canadaand Canada

Experience the Cultural Coast ofMassachusetts with our new ‘Best ofPlymouth, Cape Cod & The Islands’ itinerary.9 Nights from £1450 per person including flights, car hire & accommodation.Contact America As You Like It on 020 8742 8299, [email protected] visit www.americaasyoulikeit.com

047TLMsummer 18/7/12 15:07 Page 1

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Autumn is wine harvesting time and a good time tovisit wineries for a tour and tastings. You can go onbiking tours through vineyards in places such as Solvangin California’s Santa Barbara wine country and Sonomaand Napa Valley further north. There are also wine harvest festivals, such as the

Paso Robles Harvest Wine Weekend(www.pasowine.com/events/harvest.php) in CentralCalifornia, from October 19-21.The wineries of France, Spain and other European

countries are also busy harvesting and there are festivalsin Spain’s sherry capital, Jerez de la Frontera, and acrossTuscany in Italy among wine-growing centres.You can take autumn wine tours across Europe with

specialist companies including Arblaster & Clarke (www.winetours.co.uk) and Grape Escapes(www.grapeescapes.net) while, on the home front,English wineries such as Biddenden Vineyards(www.biddendenvineyards.com) in Kent offer freeguided tours during harvest time.Britain can still enjoy surprisingly-warm days during

autumn, as last year’s record-breaking October demon-strated. But if you want to be sure of basking in warmer

temperatures without reaching for your passport, head tothe Channel Islands. Guernsey’s Autumn Walking Week,from September 8-16, has a whole programme of guidedwalks from short walks around the harbour town of StPeter Port to longer coastal rambles, while the AutumnFloral Guernsey Festival (for both, visitwww.floralguernsey.gg/events), from September 29-

Summer 2012 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 45

seasonal focus n autumn getaways

autumn afloatOne of the best ways to enjoy the change ofseasons and scenery in autumn is on a cruise. Cultural cruise specialist Swan Hellenic

(www.swanhellenic.com) offers thechance to explore historic cities andancient ruins on its 15-day TheMediterranean World cruise departingNaples on October 24 aboard recently-refurbished Minerva, with highlightsincluding visits to Pompeii and Pisa in Italy,Tunisia’s Sousse and Malta’s Valetta. Pricesare from £1,695 per person.The week-long Autumn in the Inner

Hebrides cruise aboard Hebridean Princessfrom Hebridean Island Cruises(www.hebridean.co.uk) sails from Obanon October 23 through Scotland’s westernisles with prices from £2,000 per person.Tall ship sailing company Star Clippers

(www.starclippers.co.uk) has added new,shorter “taster cruises” with a five-nightmini-cruise from Athens to Malta in Octobercosting just £999 per person, including flightsand transfers. Departing on October 20, thecruise visits Greek ports Monemvasia and

Pilos, plus Syracuse in Sicily.Holland America Line

(www.hollandamerica.co.uk) hasexpanded its South America programmefrom autumn, with three ships cruising theregion on itineraries from 13 to 68 days. Itincludes a 14 or 18-day cruise to Valparaisoin Chile from Boston or Fort Lauderdale on

October 20 or 24 respectively.Some Europe river cruises still operate

during autumn, among them a seven-daycruise between Amsterdam and Basel whichis part of the 13-day Enchanting Rhineitinerary from AMA Waterways(www.amawaterways.com). Departurescontinue until November 10.

October 7, also includes walks as well as talks, lecturesand workshops.

great valueGuernsey is great value in autumn, helped by the six-week Tennerfest (www.tennerfest.com), from October1-November 11 this year, when menus at over 160participating establishments start from just £10. Takeboat trips to the neighbouring, car-free islands of Herm

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or Sark for the day, explore Guernsey’s many attractionsand museums – many indoors if the weather isinclement – or just stroll around St Peter Port. Stay at five-star The Old Government House Hotel and

Spa (www.theoghhotel.com), in the heart of the town,and round the day off with a soothing spa treatment orrelaxing in the garden and around the outdoor heated pool,which is open until the end of October, weather permit-ting. You can also take traditional afternoon tea completewith scones served with jam and Guernsey cream in thehotel’s Sir John Coward Lounge.Around the Mediterranean, many sunshine resorts are

still open right through autumn,with the pace of life

winding down afterthe hecticsummermonths. Youcan oftenfind holi-days atbargainpricescompared withthose in peak

season, and fami-lies can find escapes

during the October half termat better value than in summer.Cosmos Holidays (www.cosmos.co.uk) offers great-

value autumn breaks to destinations including Greece,Spain, Portugal and Turkey. October also sees the launchof holidays to Atlantic island Madeira, criss-crossed byits levada walking trails, with new Monarch flights fromGatwick and Birmingham offering stays from shortbreaks to 14 nights or longer.Cooler autumn temperatures also make it more

comfortable to explore destinations such as Malta’shistoric capital, Valletta (www.cityofvalletta.org). Thecity is a UNESCO World Heritage Site full of 16thcentury Baroque architecture, a legacy of the Knights ofSt Johns, streets dotted with cafes and wine bars, impos-ing city walls and its beautiful Grand Harbour. A goodbase for exploring Valletta is the 136-room, five-starPhoenicia Hotel (www.phoeniciamalta.com), located

at the city gates. It has recently been awarded both theTripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence 2012 and theExpedia Insiders’ Select status 2012, ranking it as one ofMalta’s most popular hotels.

46 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 2012

seasonal focus n autumn getaways

autumn getaways facts

packagesThese are some of the autumn holidayson offer:

Cosmos Holidays offers a seven-nightcouples’ holiday in Rhodes staying atthe five-diamond Rodos Palladium inKalithea from £546 per person half-board, departing Gatwick on October 3,and including flights but not transfers. The sameholiday departing August 22 costs from £822. www.cosmos.co.uk

For families, Cosmos offers the five-diamond, all-inclusive Hotel PapillonZeugma in Turkey’s Belek resort, featuring two children’s swimmingpools and waterslides, playroom, playground and family rooms. A seven-night autumn half-term stay departing October 21 costs £633 per adultand £289 per child, including flights, compared with £1,101 and £441respectively for an August 15 departure.

America As You Like It’s 10-night Southern New England tour, costingfrom £1,072 per person, starts and ends in Boston and takes in placessuch as Salem, location of the famous witchcraft trials, Martha’s Vineyardand Nantucket. The prices includes flights, car hire and room-onlyaccommodation. www.americaasyoulikeit.com

Let the train take the strain on a seasonal 10-day Falls Colours & ScenicTrains tour with Holidays By Rail that incorporates scenic tourist trains,lake cruises and some coach travel through five of the six New Englandstates. Prices start at £1,379 per person, excluding flights, withdepartures from Boston on September 27 and October 4.www.holidaysbyrail.com

Guernsey’s five-star Old Government House Hotel and Spa, in centralSt Peter Port, offers a two-night Discover Guernsey Autumn package,which includes a hire car, a three-course dinner and a special picnichamper, from £246 per person. www.theoghhotel.com

An autumn break staying in the PhoeniciaHotel, Malta, costs from just £62 perperson, based on two adults sharing forthree nights, based on a City BreaksAdvance Purchase rate.www.phoeniciamalta.com

Hebridean Island Cruises’ Autumn in theInner Hebrides round-trip voyage from

Oban starts on October 23 and includes a fullday tour of Islay, morning visits to Lismore and Eigg and an afternoon onMull, for shopping and strolls in picturesque Tobermory. Prices foravailable cabins range from £2,000-£4,190 per person.www.hebridean.co.uk

Visit

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There can be few more memorable holidayexperiences than watching some of theworld’s most magnificent creatures in theirnatural habitats, and these days you canenjoy the best safari experiences without hav-ing to “rough it” – in fact, safari holidays

offer some of the most luxurious and intimate accom-modation to be found anywhere on the planet.

africa

Although safari holidays are now available across theworld and generally relate to any trip which features asignificant amount of wildlife activities, Africa was thebirthplace of the safari and continues to offer thebiggest range of destinations and options for this uniquetype of holiday.

Safaris began life in East Africa more than a centuryago when visitors from Europe andthe United States, famouslyincluding US presidentTheodore Roosevelt,came to the plains

of Kenya and Tanzania to go big game hunting andattempted to “bag” one of the Big Five game creatures –lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo.

Thankfully, now, safaris are linked to conservationrather than the slaughter of these animals, although thereis still an element of competition between tourists overgetting to see all of these five species during their holiday.

Another major evolution in the safari holiday is thevast improvement in the quality of the accommodation;guests can now unwind in luxurious lodges and tentedcamps offering modern conveniences and top-notchservice just a few yards from the wildlife.

While the idea of staying under canvas may notappeal initially to anybody who has been camping in therain-soaked UK, these tents would put most hotel suitesto shame with their impressive size and plush furnish-ings, often including outdoor showers or plunge pools.But probably best of all are the views of the surroundingsavannah and you may even get to observe a few animalsfrom the comfort of your private veranda.

The advantage of top-notch safari accommodation isthat each camp or lodge is small with only a handful ofrooms, cottages or tents – normally less than 10 andfrequently only five or six rooms – so there is a feeling ofexclusivity. This also allows them to offer a more intimatestyle of service, with many providing personal butlerswho can arrange private alfresco dinners, individual gamedrives or spa treatments.

While safaris havetraditionally involvedgetting down to basicsin order to experiencenature in the raw, thesedays you can enjoyclose encounters incomfort without havingto slum it. Rob Gilllooks at how you canbe king of the jungle onsafari holidays in Africaand beyond

a touch of class n luxury safaris

LION KINGS

Singita

n Wildebeest at sunset

n A Serengetilion

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The choice of safari destinations within Africa ishuge and growing all the time as new upmarket campsopen across the continent. The most famous safariregion remains Kenya’s Masai Mara, which is one of thebest places to see the “great migration” of wildebeestfrom Tanzania’s Serengeti plains every autumn. Touroperator Abercrombie & Kent(www.abercrombiekent.co.uk) has been one of thepioneers of East African luxury safaris since the 1960sand still offers a comprehensive range of trips and prop-erties in the region.Opening at the end of July in the Serengeti National

Park, luxurious retreat Singita Serengeti House accom-modates just eight guests and offers exclusive-use staysand safari activities with access to 350,000 acres ofprivate land including its own watering hole.Another major area for upmarket safari lodges is

South Africa’s Sabi Sands (www.sabisand.co.za), acollection of private game reserves on the edge of theiconic Kruger National Park. Some of the best andmost established luxury lodges such as Singita(http://singita.com), Mala Mala(www.malamala.com) and Sabi Sabi (www.sabisabi.com) can be found here, as can SirRichard Branson’s exclusive Ulusaba(www.ulusaba.virgin.com).For families looking for a safari experience without

having to worry about taking malaria medication, the

private reserves of South Africa’s Eastern Cape are agood option. Shamwari (www.shamwari.com) is themost well known, with seven lodges all offering five-staraccommodation and service.Tailor-made, luxury safari tour operator Pure Safari

(www.puresafari.co.uk) offers family safaris at malaria-free, high-altitude camps in Kenya and at Tanzania’sAmara Selous lodge, where the Amaradillos Club offerseducational and interactive activities including scavengerhunts and footprint track casting, as well as in Botswana,where families can book exclusive use of the six-beddedFootsteps Camp with activities tailored to children’s ages.Honeymoon safaris and a new rhino-tracking safari expe-rience in Malawi are among other options, while a stayat a suite at the Royal Malewane resort in SouthAfrica includes your own private butler andoptional arrival by helicopter or executive jet.The Okavango Delta and Botswana’s

Chobe National Park have some of thebest game viewing in Africa, and thewilderness has been brought even closerto guests staying at Orient-ExpressHotels’ (www.orient-express.com)luxurious Savute Elephant Camp, in theheart of Chobe, with the introduction ofglass sliding doors to its 12 thatched tentedresidences. It is one of three Orient-Expresscamps in Botswana, and holidays can involve a six-

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a touch of class n luxury safaris

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n Rhinos and cocktails atKenya's Solio Lodge

n Tented suite at BanjaarTola, in India’s KanhaNational Park

n Botswana in style

n Coffee break inBaghvan PenchNational Park

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night stay at one or a combination of all three with inter-camp transfers by light aircraft. Game-viewing vehiclesalso now carry a maximum of just six guests, so every-one is guaranteed a window seat.

Namibia’s Etosha has seen the opening of several newupmarket lodges in recent years, including Little Ongava(www.ongava.com), which is regarded as one of thecountry’s finest properties with just three suites, all withviews of a nearby waterhole and plains as well as indi-vidual infinity plunge pools.

Further north, both Uganda and Rwanda have becomeknown for their gorilla-tracking safaris where visitors can

see these great apes in their natural jungle habitat whilestaying in eco-lodges. Lodge operator Wilderness

Safaris (www.wilderness-safaris.com) is alsodue to open two new camps this summer inthe Odzala area of the Republic of Congo.

While Africa will always be king of thesafari jungle, the Indian sub-continent isthe one region that can give it a run for its

money – thanks to the huge range of diverselandscapes that are home to a variety of fasci-

nating wildlife.

The star turn of the Indian jungle is undoubtedly theBengal tiger, which has been threatened with extinctiondue to hunting. But they can still be seen in some of thecountry’s national parks such as Bandhavgarh, Panna andKaziranga, as well as Chitwan in neighbouring Nepal.Kaziranga is also home to India’s one-horned rhino.

Luxury accommodation in these areas tends torevolve around stylish kutiyas, which are traditionallybuilt jungle suites with mod cons and large verandas.Upmarket Indian hotel group Taj(www.tajsafaris.com) has four of these propertiesspread across four national parks in the central state ofMadhya Pradesh.

Sri Lanka has also developed a reputation for itswildlife, which includes elephants, bison, macaques andtracking the rosette-spotted leopard in Yala NationalPark. The country has undergone a luxury makeover inrecent years, bringing its properties up to the levelexpected by upmarket travellers with sumptuous lodgessuch as Aditya (www.aditya-resort.com) offeringguests proper pampering.

Further east, Malaysian Borneo is famed for itsorang-utans and proboscis monkeys. Seeing theseanimals in the jungle forms a major part of toursaround the island offered by luxury operators such asAudley Travel (www.audleytravel.com), while the

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a touch of class n luxury safaris

flying safarisOne way to elevate your safari holiday toanother level is to get an aerial view of thewildlife and scenery from a small aircraft,hot-air balloon or even a helicopter.

Kenya’s Masai Mara is one of the bestplaces to do this, with operators such asEscape Worldwide(www.escapeworldwide.co.uk) offeringa range of different itineraries flying aroundthe area in light aircraft.

These air safaris also have anotheradvantage of allowing holidaymakers tocombine several game reserves and lodgesin one trip by saving time on what can be

arduous and lengthy transfers by road. Kuoni (www.kuoni.co.uk) offers fly-in

safaris between Kenya’s Lake Naivasha andMasai Mara wildlife areas, as well as to theGovernors’ Camp, also to Kenya.

Scenic hot-air balloon excursions arealso offered around the region while guestsstaying at the Safari Collection’s(www.thesafaricollection.com) SolioLodge can take a helicopter day trip whichincludes trout fishing on Mount Kenya andtrying to spot the area’s most famousinhabitants – black and white rhino.

Further south, Namibia is known for itsspectacular desert landscapes which arebest appreciated from a light aircraft.Abercrombie & Kent offers a flying safari

along the eerie Skeleton Coast wherewildlife vies for attention with the wrecksof numerous ships.

If you really want to push the boat out,the East African Extravaganza safari fromluxury tour operator Brown + Hudson(www.brownandhudson.com) involvestravelling for 14 days exclusively byhelicopter through Kenya, Uganda andTanzania, tracking the Big Five as well astaking in a gorilla trek through the BwindiImpenetrable Forest, home to half theworld’s mountain gorilla population. It costsfrom £225,000 for two, but that includesyour own bespoke documentary producedwildlife film-making legend Alan Root, whoalso acts as your personal guide.

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n Arriving in style in Uganda with Brown + Hudson

nNew campsoffer gorillatracking

asia-pacific

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Shangri-La Rasa Ria (www.shangri-la.com) offersan upmarket resort experience.

americas

Costa Rica in Central America has fast developed areputation for the diversity of its animal experiencespacked into a relatively small country. Sights includeturtles laying their eggs at Tortuguero National Park,howler monkeys flying through the jungle, brightly-coloured toucans and parrots, plus a range of residentwildcats such as jaguars and pumas.

The destination is also well known for its high-qual-ity eco lodges, particularly around Arenal VolcanoNational Park; it features some of the most stylish prop-erties such as Arenal Nayara(http://arenalnayara.com), where guests can enjoyviews of the volcano from their private outdoor plungepools and balconies.

Another iconic wildlife destination is Ecuador’sGalapagos Islands, which have been traditionally visitedon small cruise ships. However, the Galapagos SafariCamp (www.galapagossafaricamp.com), on theisland of Santa Cruz, has tried to recreate an upmarketAfrican-style safari experience with nine spacious tentsbuilt on wooden platforms.

In North America, some of the best luxury wildlifeexperiences can be found on the coast of British Colum-bia, where bears and whales can be seen from resortssuch as Clayoquot Wilderness Resort(www.wildretreat.com) and King Pacific Lodge(www.kingpacificlodge.com) or you can enjoy variedeco-adventure wildlife tours at the Relais & ChateauxSonora Resort (www.sonoraresort.com).

Further east, polar bears are the iconic inhabitants ofChurchill in northern Manitoba. Head for Seal RiverHeritage Lodge (www.churchillwild.com) on theHudson Bay – a 30-minute flight from Churchill –where these huge beasts can be spotted as well as thesimilarly-white beluga whales.

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a touch of class n luxury safaris

Rob Gill has been writing about travel for over a decade,with regular trips to see some of the world’s most fascinat-ing creatures. Highlights include the lions of southern Africa,Sri Lanka’s elephants and the jungle-dwelling orang-utans inIndonesia.

luxury safari facts

sample packages:kenyaFour nights staying in a luxury tent at theMara Bushtops camp is priced from£2,598 per person with Kuoni. Thisprice includes all meals, internationaland domestic flights, plus game drives.www.kuoni.co.uk

tanzaniaAfrica Odyssey is offering a four-night stay at the brand-new SingitaSerengeti House in the Serengeti from £6,200 per person, includinginternational and internal flights, exclusive-use of the property on a full-board basis, game-viewing drives and park entrance fees.www.africaodyssey.com

south africaAudley Travel has a 12-day trip combining the Kruger National Park inSouth Africa with the beaches of Mozambique. It is priced from £3,260per person including flights.www.audleytravel.com

congoRainbow Tours offers a six-night package to Wilderness Safaris’ two newOdzala camps in the Republic of Congo for £4,695 per person includingall flights, full-board accommodation, plus daily guided walks, game drivesand gorilla-tracking groups.www.rainbowtours.co.uk

namibiaAn Abercrombie & Kent 12-day tailor-made safari holiday to Namibia ispriced from £5,898 per person, based on two adults sharing with flightsfrom the UK.www.abercrombiekent.co.uk

indiaA 13-day safari tour with Cox & Kings visiting the Bandhavgarh andKanha national parks is priced from £3,445 per person, including flights,safari drives with tiger tracking, and all meals at the safari lodges.www.coxandkings.co.uk

other safari operators:Africa Collection: www.africacollection.co.ukBridge & Wickers: www.bridgeandwickers.co.ukBrown + Hudson: www.brownandhudson.comCarrier: www.carrier.co.ukCedarberg Travel: www.cedarberg-travel.comElegant Resorts:www.elegantresorts.co.ukExpert Africa: www.expertafrica.comITC Classics: www.itcclassics.co.ukKirker: www.kirkerholidays.comPure Safari: www.puresafari.co.ukScott Dunn: www.scottdunn.comSunvil: www.sunvil.co.ukTransindus: www.transindus.co.uk

Chur

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n Furry visitor at Manitoba’sSeal River Lodge

n MaraBuhtops, Kenya

n Serengeti

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Keeping kids amused on a flight isa challenge for any parent, butYUUbags activity rucksacks are

perfect for keeping them entertainedwhile travelling.

The rucksacks have fold-down desks,colouring pads, pencils and a magneticgame board which all come in a freeYUUfun pack chosen by the kids them-selves.

There is also room inside the bag foran iPod and a Nintendo DS. Not onlythat, but they have ergonomic backpanels to help protect growing spines.

Three new designs – JUUMP, RUUNand MUUV – have just been introducedand the full range of YUUbags is available from £43 online fromwww.YUUworld.com.l For a chance to WIN one of twoYUUbags, worth £43 each, go towww.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click onCompetitions. Terms and conditionsapply. Closing date September 12, 2012.

Anew travel feedingset introduced byVital Baby is per-

fect for keeping your littleones well-fed on your

flight and beyond. The travel kit bundle

includes a two-handledtrainer cup, the Trap-a-snack container, ideal for

small snacks, and the inno-vative Unbelievabowl,which sticks onto any flat,smooth surface so littlehands can’t knock it over.

A weaning bowl withbuilt-in spoon and a packof fruity face wipescomplete the set, which isavailable for £16.50 fromwww.vitalbaby.com.

Summer 2012 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 55

in your n flightbag

It’s Vital, Baby

High and dry no moreWith humidity as lowas 5% in many airlinecabins, long-haul flightscan have a dehydratingeffect not only on yourskin, but also on youreyes, especially if youwear contact lenses orare using electronicequipment. Clinitas Soothe eye

drops offer a soothing,effective relief from dryeyes and are available in small, resealable 0.5ml vialswith an RRP of £6.62 for 20. Clinitas Soothe has a high concentration of sodium

hyaluronate and can provide long periods of helpagainst sore, dry eyes. The drops are available onprescription or from opticians and pharmacistsincluding Boots.

Bee preparedCrowded airports can be a breedingground for bugs and infections sothe new Bee Prepared max-strengthcapsules from health specialistUnBEElieveable Health are perfectto pop in your bag to help ward offthose unwelcome germs. With natural immune-boosting ingredients

including bee propolis, black elderberry and olive leaf,the max-strength tablets also contain reishimushroom, renowned for its antiviral, antibacterialand antifungal properties, giving a vital boost to yourimmune system. Twenty capsules are available for £11.99; go to

www.unbeelievablehealth.co.uk for a full list ofstockists.

Clean and GreenOrganic skincare company Green People hasadded to its range by introducing the newSticky Hand sanitiser, which is ideal for poppingin your bag when travelling with your kids. Its anti-bacterial ingredients include tea tree

extract as well as larch tree extract to protectthe skin and aloe vera to soften.

Essential oils of sweet orange, lemon and mandaringive it a fresh, fruity smell and, with 96% certifiedorganic ingredients, it is safe to use on even the mostsensitive of skins. With up to 200 squirts per 100ml bottle for just

£9.45, it is great value for families on holiday. Green People products are available from selected

John Lewis stores, independent health stores andonline at www.greenpeople.co.uk.

YUU and your bags

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in your n suitcase

50+ shades awayA key factor to a successful trip with an infant issleep and the new SnoozeShade for travel cots is agreat aid when travelling with babies.

This breathable, lightweight blackout blind easilyattaches to a travel cot to aid sleep. It has sunprotection of SPF 50+ and can also act as a mosquitonet.

The latest in the SnoozeShade range, which alsoincludes shades for buggies and car seats, prices startfrom £19.99, with the travel cot shade costing £69.99. For more details, go to www.snoozeshade.co.uk.

Hair conditioningThe sun can play havocwith your hair, buttaking too manyproducts onholiday can becumbersome. Macadamia’stravel collectionfeatures five travel-sized products as well as a uniqueoil-infused comb, all in a stylish travel case.

The set, costing £29.99 and including shampoo andleave-in conditioning cream, is available in leadingsalons and online from www.amazon.co.uk.

Release your inner goddessNamed after the Greek goddess of natural beauty, theThea Skincare range of natural, organic products hasa new four-piece travel set with products containingnatural fruit enzymes that renew and brightencomplexions by removing dead skin cells to repair

and hydrate your skin andgive you a healthy, holidayglow.

The carry bag costs £32.95and is available online fromwww.theaskincare.com.

Adam joinsthe familyInspired by MillicanDalton, a self-sufficient1900s Lakeland mountainguide, the Millican range oftravel and outdoor bags ismade from organic canvas,recycled polyester, veg-etable-tanned leather andLakeland wool. Notonly that, but eachproduct in the range isnamed after local friendsof the company. The latest is Adam the

Suitcase, a soft hand luggage sizecase with two big internal compartmentsand three external pockets. An internaldivider and combined shoe/laundry bagmake Adam a valuable addition to thecurrent range of travel accessories andbags. Other new products include Keith the

Writer’s Bag, Ryan the Dome Pack and Robthe Traveller, as well as Ian the CameraCase, which is padded with local Herdwick

wool. Millican products are available onlineat www.homeofmillican.com, at Tonicand Farlows in London and at selected inde-pendent stores. Prices range from £12 to £95for accessories and £75 to £265 for bags.l For your chance to WIN an Adam theSuitcase worth £265, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click onCompetitions. Terms and conditionsapply. Closing date September 12, 2012.

For any holiday, adress that worksfrom day to evening

is the ultimate suitcaseitem and the spring/sum-mer collection fromIngenue London is ideal. Set up two years ago

by creative director MenaRyan, Ingenue’s range ofmachine-washable daydresses in vibrant graphicprints, jewel blockcolours and subtle ombreprints, as well as theglamorous full-lengthdresses, makes perfectholiday wear, as do thenewly-added tops andwide palazzo pants.

While still a relativenewcomer to the fashionscene, Ingenue already hasa celebrity following withfans including actressesEmilia Fox and HelenMirren and presenterEmma Bunton. Pricesstart from £65 for ablouse; for full details ofthe range go towww.ingenuelondon.com.lYou can WIN one ofthree pink Ava dressesworth £93 each; go towww.tlm-magazine.co.ukand click onCompetitions. Terms andconditions apply. Closingdate September 12, 2012.

Ingenius fashion

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When travelling abroad, the local food, drink and climate can all have an effect on the balance of bacteria in your digestive system.

Bimuno® TRAVELAID is a unique and convenient new formulation that has been specially developed for business and holiday travellers, to be taken in preparation for and during your time abroad.

Published scientific studies* have shown that some prebiotic Galacto-oligosaccharides, such as provided by Bimuno TRAVELAID, can help encourage and sustain a healthy level of your ‘good’ gut bacteria, helping to keep your tummy happy on its travels.

Next time you’re going away try Bimuno TRAVELAID soft chewy pastilles to experience the benefits for yourself.

*S tudies on file. Bimuno TRAVELAID is the result of nine years of intensive scientific research with the University of Reading. Bimuno is a food supplement. Food supplements are intended to supplement your diet and should notbe regarded as a substitute for a varied diet and a healthy lifestyle. Bimuno® is a registered trademark which is the property of Clasado Inc for a Prebiotic Transgalactooligosaccharide.

Now available from and Bimuno.com

Support your Tummywhile abroad!

TESTED IN PUBLISHEDSCIENTIFIC STUDIES

NEW

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1. Northern Lights The wow factor: The Aurora Borealis is a shim-mering display of brilliant lights generally seen inpolar regions. Solar wind and magnetosphereparticles colliding with atoms in the upperatmosphere produce “curtains” or swirlingclouds of greens, blues and reds which appear todance in the sky. They are at their most

pronounced during solar maximums which happenon roughly 11-year cycles, when sunspots, solar

flares and solar storms occur more frequently.According to NASA, the current solarcycle, the 24th since 1755, will peak inearly or mid 2013.Did you know? The NorthernLights are usually best seen inwinter but can occur at any timeof year. The most spectacularauroras in recorded historyoccurred on August 28 andSeptember 2, 1859, the latterproducing such intense light that itwas reportedly possible to read by thelight at 1am in Boston, Massachusetts.

Experience: Specialised Tours offers a three-nightbreak to Tromso, Norway, with activities includingNorthern Lights trips and snowmobile and huskysafaris, from £895. The Aurora Zone has a new range ofAutumn Lights aurora adventures in Finland fromSeptember-November. Quark Expeditions has an ArcticNorthern Lights cruise up the East Greenland coastfrom September 16-29, while Hurtigruten’s Norwegiancoast cruises, including the Arctic Highlights Voyagebetween Tromso and Kirkenes from November-March,

also offer aurora spotting. Relax in an open-air hottub watching the Northern Lights with

Inntravel or in comfort from your ownheated glass igloo with Taber Holidays,both in Finnish Lapland. Iceland’sluxurious Hotel Ranga also offersaurora viewing from outdoor hottubs. www.specialisedtours.com,www.theaurorazone.com,www.quarkexpeditions.com,www.hurtigruten.co.uk,

www.inntravel.co.uk,www.taberhols.co.uk,

www.ghotw.com/hotel-ranga

From the dazzling Northern Lights and the Grand Canyon to cascading waterfalls and thunderinghooves, these 10 wonders of the natural world will leave you awe-struck

of the best:naturalwonders

10

Andy Keen/www.aurorahunters.com

10 of the best n natural wonders

n Viewing the lightsfrom a cruise ship

Hurtigruten

World wonders

n Aurora Borealis over Norway

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10 of the best n natural wonders

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2. Grand Canyon, USAThe wow factor: One of nature’s geological marvels,the Grand Canyon is vast – stretching along 277 miles(446 kilometres) of the Colorado River in Arizona, up to18 miles (29km) wide and over a mile deep (6,000ft,1,829m) from rim to river. The Grand Canyon NationalPark covers an area of 1.2 million acres (493,077hectares), more than 1,900 square miles (4,931 sq km).www.nps.gov/grcaDid you know? A trip to the bottom of the canyon andback, either on foot or by mule, takes two days, whilehikers take three days to get from the North Rim to theSouth Rim, one way. A Colorado River raft trip throughthe Grand Canyon takes at least two weeks. Experience: Step out onto the U-shaped glass walkwayof the Grand Canyon Skywalk which juts out from therim at the Hualapai Nation’sGrand Canyon West andlook down 4,000ft(1,219m) to thecanyon floor. GrandCanyon Westentrance tours cost$29.95 plus feesand tax and aSkywalk add-oncosts $29.95. Stayovernight in a cabinfacing the canyon rimfor $129.95 plus taxes. AGrand Canyon OvernightGetaway add-on from Las Vegas, flying in a Heli USAhelicopter below the canyon rim and over Hoover Damand Lake Mead, to stay in a log cabin at Grand CanyonRanch Resort after a post-dinner campfire singalong,costs £389 plus $50 fees with Trailfinders.www.grandcanyonwest.com, www.heliusa.com,www.trailfinders.com

3. Uluru, AustraliaThe wow factor: Formerly known as Ayers Rock, thisUNESCO World Heritage Site is a landmark almost inthe geographical centre of Australia and is sacred to thelocal Aboriginal people. It rises 1,260ft (384m) from theflat Outback of Northern Territory and measures 2.2miles (3.6km) long by 1.2 miles (2km) wide. Through-out the day, and especially at sunset, it changes colour toa multitude of hues.www.environment.gov.au/parks/uluruDid you know? Uluru is like a giant iceberg; most ofits bulk is below the surface – around 3.7 miles (6km)deep!Experience: Travelbag offers a five-day Discover theRed Centre self-drive tour, including Alice Springs andKings Canyon as well as Uluru, from £2,199 per personincluding return international flights into Darwin, carhire and accommodation. Intrepid Travel’s three-dayCentral Rock & Canyon tour also visits Kata Tjuta (TheOlgas) and Kings Canyon and costs from £370ppincluding two nights’ camping. www.travelbag.co.uk, www.intrepidtravel.com

n Helicopter overthe Grand Canyon

n Family outing inthe Grand Canyon

n Dizzyingheights: the

Grand CanyonSkywalk

n Australia’sUluru at sunset

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4. Niagara Falls, Canada/USAThe wow factor: Straddling the border betweenCanada’s Ontario province and America’s New YorkState, Niagara Falls comprises three waterfalls – Horse-shoe Falls, the American Falls and the Bridal Veil Falls –over which the Niagara River plunges up to 188ft(57m). Although not the world’s highest falls (there areabout 500 taller waterfalls in the world), Niagara’scascades have the highest flow rate of any waterfall.Around six million cubic feet (168,000 cubic metres) ofwater thunders over the falls every minute in highseason, with the flow reaching up to 68mph (109kmh)at the crestline. www.niagaraparks.com,

www.niagarafallsstatepark.comDid you know? Niagara Falls is eroding at the rate ofone foot (0.3m) per year and has moved back sevenmiles (11km) in 12,500 years – making it the world’sfastest-moving waterfall. At the present rate, HorseshoeFalls will erode back about four miles over the next15,000 years, after which it will hit soft shale and thefalls could be replaced by a series of rapids. Experience: A four-night package from FrontierCanada, with two nights’ deluxe accommodation inboth Toronto and Niagara Falls, includes returnToronto/Niagara Falls transfers, sightseeing tour ofNiagara Falls and Niagara-on-the-Lake and a Maid ofthe Mist boat trip to the base of Horseshoe Falls. Pricesstart from £385pp. A falls helicopter trip is £85 extra.www.frontier-canada.co.uk

5. Amazon rainforest, South AmericaThe wow factor: Covering 2.5 million square miles(6.5 million sq km), including half of Brazil and 40% ofSouth America, the Amazon rainforest is vast – and if itwas a country it would be the ninth largest in the world.Beginning in the Peruvian Andes, the Amazon Riverand its rainforest stretch across nine countries. Did you know? Roughly 20% of the earth’s oxygen isproduced by the Amazon rainforest, earning it the nick-name “the lungs of the planet”, while 16% of all theworld’s river water flows through the Amazon delta. TheAmazon rainforest watershed also has the world’s high-est level of biodiversity.

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10 of the best n natural wonders

Ont

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Tour

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Wex

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n Niagara Falls’ dramaticHorseshoe Falls

n The Amazon River and rainforest

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tlm � the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 201262

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Experience:While most people go to Brazil, Peruoffers a far less travelled way to see it. Journey to theAmazon’s source with Wexas Travel on a 14-day tailor-made itinerary costing from £6,750, including flights.Besides Lima, Cuzco and Machu Picchu, it featuresfour nights on a guided Amazon tour with Aqua Expedi-tions, visiting Peru’s remote Pacaya Samiria Reserve. Orvisit the UNESCO-listed Manu Biosphere Reserve inthe Amazon on a tour with Crees Expeditions, whichoperates two lodges including the Manu LearningCentre, where jaguars can be seen. www.wexas.com,www.aquaexpeditions.com, www.crees-expeditions.com

6. Victoria Falls,Zambia/ZimbabweThe wow factor: VictoriaFalls borders Zambia andZimbabwe and is knownlocally as Mosi-oa-Tunya,or the Smoke that Thunders– an apt name, as thecascading waters of theZambezi River create a mistyplume that hangs over the fallsand often catches the sunlight toproduce rainbows. The UNESCO-listedwaterfall, protected by national parks in each country,has the largest curtain of water in the world when theZambezi is in full flood, usually February or March, atover a mile wide (1.7km) and dropping 325ft (99m) atRainbow Falls in Zambia. Did you know? Scottish explorer David Livingstonewas the first European to see Victoria Falls, in 1855, andnamed the mighty waterfall after Britain’s reigning queen.Experience: Stay at romantic hideaway TongabeziLodge, just upstream of Victoria Falls on the banks ofthe Zambezi, and take a thrilling boat trip toLivingstone Island, where Dr Livingstone first made hisdiscovery where you can even swim right up to the falls’edge in the Devil’s Pool. A two-night package atTongabezi with two nights at Sindabezi Lodge, also onthe Zambezi, costs from $415, with national park andfalls fees plus Livingstone Island tour ($70) extra. Youcan also stay at the five-star Royal Livingstone Hotel onthe Zambezi and take a microlight or helicopter tripover the falls. www.tongabezi.com, www.suninternational.com

7. Great Barrier Reef, AustraliaThe wow factor: Another UNESCO World HeritageSite, the Great Barrier Reef stretches for 1,430 miles(2,300km) off Queensland’s coast and is the longestcoral reef system in the world. The largest structurebuilt by living creatures, it is the only living thing thatcan be seen from space. It is home to over 1,500 fishspecies, one-third of the world’s soft corals, over 400types of hard coral, over 30 marine mammal speciesincluding the endangered dugong, and six of the world’sseven turtle species.Did you know? The Great Barrier Reef Marine Park is

133, 200 square miles (345,000 sq km) in size – largerthan the UK and Ireland combined. The reef systemactually comprises around 2,900 individual reefs.Experience: A four-night package staying on HeronIsland, a coral cay on the Great Barrier Reef, with TailorMade Travel costs from £549, with return flights from£1,175. A 12-night stay with Black Tomato on exclusiveWilson Island, just off Heron Island and only accessibleby helicopter, costs £4,599 with flights. Or stay onHamilton Island, in the Whitsunday Islands, and spend afull day exploring the reef as part of a four-day GreatBarrier Reef Adventure costing from £1,050, excludingflights. www.tailor-made.co.uk, www.blacktomato.com,www.hamiltonisland.com.au

8. Iguazu Falls, Brazil/ArgentinaThe wow factor: Not just one waterfall, but a chain ofsome 270-plus individual cascades make up the glori-ously-beautiful Iguazu Falls, which lies on the borderbetween Brazil and Argentina and is surrounded by twosubtropical rainforest national parks designated as

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10 of the best n natural wonders

Tong

abez

i Lod

ge

Tong

abez

i Lod

ge

Her

on Is

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Ham

ilton

Isla

nd

n Victoria Falls from the air

n On the edge inthe Devil's Pool

n Heron Island, Great Barrier Reef

n Snorkelling on theGreat Barrier Reef

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World Heritage Sites. Iguazu spans almost two miles(3km), with many of the falls punctuated by islands,and the highest cascade plunges over 260ft (80m).Did you know? Iguazu Falls has featured in moviesincluding Moonraker (1979), The Mission (1986),Miami Vice (2006) and Indiana Jones and the King-dom of the Crystal Skull (2008). Experience: Wexas Travel offers a 13-night itineraryfrom £4,995 which includes a two night stay at IguazuFalls, tours of both the Argentine and Brazilian sides,excursions with English-speaking guides, flights andadditional stays in Rio, Salvador, Ouro Preto and theAmazon. An 11-day trip from Buenos Aires to Rio deJaneiro with G Adventures, costing from from £949,includes two full days at Iguazu Falls.www.wexas.com, www.gadventures.com

9.Wildebeest Migration,Kenya/TanzaniaThe wow factor: July to October is when the annualwildebeest migration takes place, with as many as 1.5million of the mammals and hundreds of thousands ofzebra making their way from Tanzania’s Serengeti toKenya’s Masai Mara. One of the obstacles they face isthe mighty Mara River, and the sight of hordes ofwildebeest leaping off the river’s high banks and swim-ming across while predators including crocodiles andlions lie in wait is one of the natural world’s greatestspectacles. Did you know?Also known as gnu, both male andfemale wildebeest have horns. Calves can walk withinminutes of birth.Experience: ToEscapeTo.com features five-night staysin the Mara Porini Camp & Porini Lion Camp in Kenyafrom £1,525 up to mid-October. Flights to Nairobi areextra and cost from £650 return. Africa Odyssey is offer-ing four nights for the price of three at Alex Walker’sSerian Camp in Tanzania throughout September from£3,300, including flights, internal transfers and game-viewing drives.www.toescapeto.com, www.africaodyssey.com

10. Limestone caves and karstmountains, ChinaThe wow factor: Guilin in China is famous for itsstunning karst mountain scenery, which was used as abackdrop in the HSBC TV advertisement featuring acormorant fisherman. But below ground is equallystunning, with a number of show caves open to thepublic, all brightly illuminated by neon lights. Among

them are Reed Flute Cave in Guilin and SilverCave in Yangshuo.

Did you know? The karst mountain sceneryon the Li River between Guilin and Yang-shuo is depicted on the back of China’s 20yuan note. Experience: A three-night extension fromGuilin to Yangshuo and back with Wendy

Wu Tours, including a Li River trip, overnightin Yangshuo and visit to Guilin’s Reed Flute

Cave, costs from £390. www.wendywutours.co.uk

64 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 2012

10 of the best n natural wonders

Do you know of better natural wonders? Tell us on tlm’s Facebook page:http://bit.ly/tlm_facebook – and see our suggestionsfor 10 of the rest.

Wex

asM

agica

lken

ya.c

omPe

ter

Elle

gard

Peter Ellegard

n Seeing the Iguazu Falls in Argentina

n Wildebeest crossingthe Mara River

n Guilin’s Reed Flute Cave

n Karstscenery

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tlm � the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 201266

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“You’re not seriously going to haveafternoon tea?” asked my partner onday three of our holiday at Grenada’sSpice Island Beach Resort. It was afair point: on one hand the scones andcakes were free, on the other I’d

already practically danced a jig of delight before the fivecourse evening menu posted outside the restaurant – agourmet feast also included in our room-rate.

I considered my strategy over a complimentary cocktailand decided I’d just have to work up an appetite in the pool.

Summer 2012 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 67

let’s try n all-inclusive holidays

All-inclusive holidays have beenaround for over 60 years, but with theeconomic crunch squeezing pursesever tighter they are becoming anincreasingly popular option, offeringvalue for money and allowingholidaymakers to budget for theirentire stay. Debbie Ward looks atwhat’s on offer

All out for all-in value

Rex

Reso

rts

Spice

Isla

nd B

each

Res

ort

Sandals

n Diving iseven includedat some all-inclusiveresorts

n Tuck in – thefood is free

n Antigua resort Hawksbillin all-inclusive only

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All-inclusives vary from little more than a full-boardhotel with a buffet to upmarket affairs with a choice ofrestaurants and water sports thrown in.

Some, like foodie Spice Island, cater for special inter-ests. The common theme is that you pay for virtuallyeverything you’ll spend on your holiday up front.

Since we’ve been in recession, the concept hasboomed. Cash–strapped couples and, especially, parentslike the idea of controlling their budget. First Choice,part of Britain’s largest tour operator TUI, announced itwas selling only all-inclusives from 2012, sayingdemand for this holiday type had grown by around one-third over five years.

A typical family could save more than £500 a weekchoosing all-inclusive over a standard holiday, FirstChoice claims. While some have quibbled over themaths, there’s no doubting that for the right kind of holi-daymaker the savings can add up.

local v premium alcoholSo what’s typically included? A key difference is acrossthe food and drinks. Some resorts have all meals in thesame buffet restaurant; others have a choice of al lacarte venues.

Soft drinks are usually limitless – but the complimen-tary alcohol in your package will vary from local wineor beer with dinner to an open bar with a choice of local-brand booze or premium-brand spirits.

Kids clubs and sports facilities – from tennis courts toa range of non-motorised water craft – are othercommon inclusions.

Some of the more upmarket resorts take things a stepfurther. In the Caribbean, the dominant adult-onlySandals and Couples brands (which also have sister

hotels aimed at friends and families) not only throwin all meals and snacks, premium drinks and

sports tuition, but also provide free boat trips,water skiing, diving and, at some resorts,unlimited golf. Couples also includes selectedexcursions and Sandals has complimentarybutler service with some suites.

SuperClubs offers what it calls Super-Inclu-sive at its Breezes properties on Jamaica, the

Bahamas and in Brazil, which includes all mealsand drinks, land and water sports with professional

instruction – and no tipping is allowed.

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let’s try n all-inclusive holidays

sustainable travelAll-inclusives have come in for some criticism because the nature of an all-in tariffdiscourages guests to spend money out in the community they’re visiting. Consider taking excursions during your holiday or choosing hotels that offer

dine-around schemes where you can eat in local restaurants some nights for noextra cost. Also check out the hotel’s sustainability credentials; some have won Green

Globe awards and similar.

all-inclusive tipsl Think what you really spend on holiday. There’s no point paying for all-inclusive

sports, kids clubs and premium drinks if you’re child-free teetotallers who liketo laze by the pool. But families will appreciate water sports.

l Some all-inclusive properties fall down on the food. In largerresorts, look for a good choice of restaurants rather than onebuffet.

l f you’re considering an all-inclusive wedding, ask how manythe resort handles a day and in how many venues, to avoidthe “conveyer belt” effect.

l If you like variety, look for chains that let you use facilitiesat their sister resorts during your stay.

l Check the resort’s location if you like to explore. Some all-inclusives are quite isolated and you could be reliant on taxisto get around.

Sand

als

Club

Med

Nei

lson

Spice Island Beach Resort

nPrivate island at Green Globerecipient Sandals Royal Caribbean

n Free water sportsappeals to families

n Check resorts’food choices

n Flying highwith Club Med

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Rex Resorts has seven properties on five Caribbeanislands – Antigua, Barbados, Grenada, St Lucia andTobago – as well as an all-inclusive beach resort plus aluxury safari lodge in Kenya. Most of its Caribbeanresorts offer all-inclusive stays as an option, althoughHawksbill in Antigua is all-inclusive only.

Another group with Caribbean all-inclusive offeringsis Spanish company Barcelo. It offers its Club Premiumall-inclusive product at five hotels on Mexico’s RivieraMaya and two on the Dominican Replublic.

These and other Caribbean all-inclusive resorts proveparticularly popular for weddings, offering a basic cere-mony and trimmings for free, or the opportunity toupgrade for additional cost.

One of the biggest draws of all-inclusives can becomplimentary childcare. Mark Warner and Club Medare particularly known for this. Club Med’s children’sclubs are free from four years up; Mark Warner’s are freefrom two years, as is its evening babysitting service.

These brands also major on sports and activities, withtuition from tennis to sailing and windsurfing to circusskills. Club Med even has a flying trapeze academy atsome resorts!

coloured beadsClub Med, a French brand, claims the first all-inclusive– a sports camp on Majorca in 1950. A few years later itintroduced bungalows in Tahiti – reached by boat forthose who could afford to take a four-month holiday.More accessible resorts followed, with guests wearing

coloured beads to let the bar staff know they were on anall-in tariff.

One of the early successes of the all-inclusive conceptwas to entice nervous travellers to exotic climes at a timewhen travel was still all a bit, well, foreign. Worriesabout unfamiliar food or personal safety were allayedbecause guests didn’t have to leave the resort.

All-inclusives helped open the Caribbean up to masstourism and the islands are still one of the big strong-holds for this style of holiday.

The Mediterranean also has a proliferation of all-inclusives, with some resorts such as Belek and Antalyaon Turkey’s southern coast having most accommodationon this system, and most of them four or five-star. Popu-lar all-inclusive hotels in Belek include thefamily-friendly Cornelia De Luxe, adult-only CorneliaDiamond and the Rixos Premium, which features theTroyaqua water park and a dolphinarium.

Other all-in hotspots include: Egypt’s Sharm ElSheikh, with hotels including the Sultan Gardens ResortSharm, Hilton Sharks Bay Resort and Royal GrandAzure; Mexico’s Caribbean coast, where the ElDorado Royale and El Dorado Casitas Royals inPlaya del Carmen and Cancun’s Riu Caribe andBarcelo Costa Cancun are among all-inclusiveofferings; and Bulgaria, at beach resorts such asSunny Beach and Elenite, where the Elenite HolidayVillage is among hotels featured by several UK touroperators.

They have also recently become established in luxury

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let’s try n all-inclusive holidays

Club

Med

Elen

ite H

oldi

ay V

illage

“A typicalfamily couldsave morethan £500 aweekchoosing all-inclusiveover astandardholiday”

n All-inclusive ispopular in Bulgaria

n Cooking up somefun in the kitchen

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Indian Ocean haven, the Maldives, where you can stay atmany of its resort islands on an all-inclusive basis.Mauritius is another destination in the region where theconcept is now popular, with Beachcomber Hotels offer-ing it as an option at several properties on the island aswell as at its Seychelles spa resort.

The odd all-inclusive is also found in destinations lessknown for fly-and-flop holidays. Brazil, China, Japanand Senegal in Africa are all featured by Club Med, forinstance, while in Vietnam, Fusion Maia in Da Nangclaims to be Asia’s first all-inclusive spa resort with twospa treatments a day included and all villas featuring aprivate pool and garden.

skiing and divingEven if you think all-inclusives are not for you, it’sworth checking out the special interests catered for bysome resorts on this tariff. Skiing is the most obviousexample. Club Med and Mark Warner specialise in thissector as well as beach breaks, while some ski touroperators including Crystal and Neilson offer selectedall-inclusive hotels. Inclusions vary, but along with youraccommodation and meals you may get some combina-tion of ski passes, ski hire, lessons and free day orevening childcare.

Sandals and Couples can work out very cost-effectivefor daily diving; you can even learn to dive at theirresorts.

Some diving is also included at wellness-focused LeSport and Le Source resorts, in St Lucia and Grenadarespectively. These resorts also throw in daily spa treat-ments plus a host of exercise classes and sports fromarchery to fencing to water skiing. Golfers, meanwhile,can tee off on an all-in tariff at 45 Club Meds.

And if the words “clothing optional” light yourcandle, you’ll find an all-inclusive for you. Jamaica’sHedonism II resort (part of SuperClubs) boasts “openbars and open minds”. Accommodation is split into Nudeand Prude parts of the resort and by night you can dress,or undress, to impress at fetish and mask parties.

let’s try n all-inclusive holidays

all-inclusive facts

Debbie Ward spent her first week as a travel journalist ata Caribbean all-inclusive hotel, reeling at the concept of aswim-up bar with free cocktails. She warns that whenreturning home from an all-inclusive holiday remember youcan no longer leave restaurants without paying.

all-inclusive specialists include:Club Med: www.clubmed.co.ukMark Warner: www.markwarner.co.ukSandals: www.sandals.co.ukCouples: www.couplesresorts.co.ukSuperClubs: www.superclubs.comAM Resorts: www.amresorts.comAlmond Resorts: www.almondresorts.comBeachcomber: www.beachcomber-hotels.comRex Resorts: www.rexresorts.comBarcelo: www.barcelo.com

individual resorts include:Spice Island Beach Resort, Grenada:www.spiceislandbeachresort.comFusion Maia, Vietnam: www.fusionmaiadanang.comHalf Moon, Jamaica: www.halfmoon.rockresorts.comPestana Porto Santo: www.pestana.com/en/pestana-porto-santo-hotelLeSport, St Lucia: www.thebodyholiday.comLaSource, Grenada: www.theamazingholiday.comJumby Bay, Antigua: www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/jumbybay

tour operators offering all-inclusive holidays include:Thomson: www.thomson.co.ukFirst Choice: www.firstchoice.co.ukThomas Cook: www.thomascook.comCosmos: www.cosmos.co.ukCrystal: www.crystalholidays.co.ukNeilson: www.neilson.co.ukVirgin Holidays: www.virginholidays.co.ukKuoni: www.kuoni.co.ukFunway: www.funwayholidays.co.ukHayes & Jarvis: www.hayesandjarvis.comClassic Collection: www.classic-collection.co.uk ITC Classics: www.agents.itcclassics.co.ukSunshine.co.uk: www.sunshine.co.ukGolden Holidays: www.golden-holidays.co.uk

sample packagesKuoni offers seven nights on all-inclusive basis at LaSource, Grenada ina luxury room, from £1,989 per person, including flights based on twosharing with Virgin Atlantic from Gatwick and transfers in resort. Theprice is for September/October, 2012. www.kuoni.co.uk

Funway Holidays offers seven nights staying at Sandals Carlyle, Jamaica,including return flights with Virgin Atlantic from £,1245 per person basedon two sharing between August 20 and September 15, 2012.www.funwayholidays.co.uk

Hayes & Jarvis has a twin-centre break to Vietnam with three nightsat the four-star Halong Plaza, Hanoi, and then four nights at the five-starFusion Maia Da Nang, with inclusive spa treatments. A September 11departure costs from £1,499 per person, and includes flights fromGatwick, internal flights and transfers. www.hayesandjarvis.com

Club Med’s new Pragelato family Italian Alps resort opens inDecember. A seven-day all-inclusive package starts from £1,060 peradult, £954 per child, including flights, all meals, drinks and snacks,ski/snowboard tuitir to 17 inclusive. www.clubmed.co.uk

Crys

tal

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Isla

nd B

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Fusio

n M

aia

n Vietnam'sFusion Maia

n Spice IslandBeach Resort

n Enjoy all-in tariffs on the slopes

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As my kayak quietly glided through the lime-stone formations of Vietnam’s Halong Bay,only monkey calls from amongst the pinkginger trees broke the silence. My oarbrushed through crystal-clear water, skim-ming fans of colourful coral under the sur-

face, as we explored the ancient UNESCO WorldHeritage-listed site.

This peaceful kayak cruise was a direct contrast to thebuzzing sea of motorbikes and chattering crowds thathad greeted me on arrival at frenetic, fragrant and fasci-nating Ho Chi Minh City.

Vietnam, once shorthand for war, is fast-becomingone of Asia’s rising stars and a new direct air servicefrom Vietnam Airlines is making it more accessible forUK tourists. While Thailand charms with its popularbeaches and neighbouring Laos and Cambodia attractintrepid backpackers, Vietnam offers a taste of Commu-nist South East Asia with a touch of comfort.

Vietnam’s troubled and varied past has left a uniquelegacy of architecture, culture and cuisine.

Summer 2012 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 73

Rising starSynonymous with conflict until relatively recently, Vietnam is undergoing rapid modernisation andis now one of South-East Asia’s fastest-growing tourism hotspots. But, as Amy Watkinsdiscovered, visitors can still easily find timeless echoes of its distant past besides vestiges of war,frenetic cities and unspoilt natural beauty

off the beaten track n vietnam

Summer 2012 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 73

Emer

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Cru

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Viet

nam

Airl

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AMAWaterways

n Halong Bay

n Kayakingoff Emeraude

n Ho Chi Minh City

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off the beaten track n vietnam

From French baguettes on café menus to a maze ofunderground tunnels once used by the Viet Cong; every-where you look there’s a dent made by history. Vietnamis modernising at break-neck speed, but deep in thecountryside you’ll see women in conical hats tendingrice paddies and traditional snapshots of a bygone age.Times have changed for Vietnam and the emerging

destination has thrown off the shackles of its conflict-ridden past. Vietnam is celebrating its heritage this yearby focusing on the positive legacies that have been leftbehind. Designer shops and upmarket hotels now line the

Dong Khoi area of Ho Chi Minh City, once Saigon’snotorious red light district during the Vietnam War,and timeless wonders such as ancient rocks and beau-tiful beaches remain untouched.

rice paddiesA fortnight is an ideal amount of time to see thecountry’s highlights. It’s possible to make yourown way around Vietnam, but an escorted tourhandles many of the logistical issues such astransportation and language barriers so touristscan enjoy the sights. You can even follow theroute of the legendary Ho Chi Minh Trail ongolf tours, playing half a dozen courses alongthe route from Hanoi to the area aroundformer Saigon that comprise the Ho Chi MinhGolf Trail.

Travelling overland between cities is a fantastic wayto see the scenery of rice paddies and thick forests, butflying between Hanoi in the north and Ho Chi Minh Cityin the south means that both can be included on a shorterholiday. Ho Chi Minh, remembered by most visitors as

Saigon, is an energetic introduction to bustling Vietnam.Colourful lanterns in Chinatown, smoky incense emanat-ing from jade-encrusted temples and the sight of streettraders with piles of bright purple dragon fruit in BenThanh night market let you know you’re in Asia. Among the exotic sights and smells there are

reminders of the Vietnam War, or the American War, asyou’ll hear it referred to. On April 30, 1975, the impos-ing Independence Palace (now called Reunification Hall)was breached by Viet Cong tanks and this led to the fallof Saigon and the end of the war. The present buildingdates to 1966, but has remained in a 1970s time warpwith government rooms left as they were. An hour outside of the city are the 120-mile long

networks of Cu Chi Tunnels, which included kitchens,hospitals, schools and sleeping quarters. They were orig-inally built in the 1940s during Vietnam’s conflictwith the French, but were used by the Viet Cong tohouse around 16,000 people during the Vietnam War.Capital Hanoi, over 1,000 miles north of Ho Chi

Minh City, is a charmingly-chaotic blend of old andnew. Here, the wide mansion-lined boulevards, lake-filled parks and the smell of freshly-cooked

vietnam’s best beachesVietnam’s beaches might not get the positive pressthat neighbouring Thailand enjoys – but with over2,000 miles of coastline and some truly incrediblebeaches that are reminiscent of Thailand’s finestbefore mass tourism took over, Vietnam has plentyto boast about. Nha Trang is Vietnam’s most famous beach

destination and while the town can now be a littleloud and brash at times, the beautiful beach has

retained its charm andcontinues to attract

holidaymakerslooking for a well-establishedresort. For those

looking for amore picturesque

introduction toVietnam’s beaches, the

white sand beaches andthick jungle covering the island of Phu Quoc makesit one of Vietnam’s most beautiful places to spend aholiday. For near-complete isolation away from the crowds,

head to the Con Dao islands for uninterruptedjungle hiking, as well as diving and snorkelling thecoral reefs; look out for resident sea turtles.

Bam

boo

Trav

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World Expeditions UK

AMAW

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n Market traders plytheir goods by water

n Vietnam hasstunning beaches

n Pagoda

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baguettes recall 19th and early 20th century colonial rule.One of its most notable icons of the period is the SofitelLegend Metropole Hanoi, which was built in 1901 andretains the green shutters so reminiscent of French colo-nial rule. Guests have included Charlie Chaplin,Somerset Maugham and, latterly, Angelina Jolie. A

recently-rediscovered bomb shelter in the hotel’s backgarden which was used in the Vietnam War has beenopened as a memorial and is the main attraction in a Pathof History tour open to guests. Singer Joan Baez recordedpart of her Where Are You Now, My Son? album in thebunker in 1972, during an American air raid.

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off the beaten track n vietnam

mekong river cruisesCruising the Mekong is one of the best waysto see remote corners of Vietnam; frommajor cities to tiny villages that can only bereached by boat. Most itineraries, includingPandaw’s (www.pandaw.com), leave fromKampong Cham on the Tonle Sap River –after an overnight in Cambodia’s Siem Reapto visit Angkor Wat – and sail to My Tho forHo Chi Minh City, or vice versa.

The cruises call at the floating villages ofKampong Chhnang, the Cambodian capital ofPhnom Penh and then sail through Vietnam.Cruises visit traditional village such as ChauDoc, canal-crossed Sa Dec and the floatingmarket at Cai Be.

River cruise company AMAWaterways(www.amawaterways.com) has twoMekong ships, which additionally stop atVietnam’s rapidly-industrialising Tan Chau.

Earlier this year, CroisiEurope

(www.croisieurope.travel) beganchartering river cruise vessel RV Indochineto offer nine-night cruises through Vietnam

and Cambodia, while Noble Caledonia(www.noble-caledonia.co.uk) partnerswith Pandaw on Mekong and land itineraries.

AMAW

ater

way

sTu

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Tour

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n Cruise the Mekong throughVietnam and Cambodia

n Floating fruit stall

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continental flavourOnce part of France’s Cochinchina Empire, Vietnam hasretained a Continental flavour that still exists amongHanoi’s busy streets. Visit the State Bank or GrandOpera House to see the best examples of French-influ-enced architecture or stroll around the Old Quarter,where original Hanoi architecture is still standing andstreet names reflect the work of the artisans, such assilk-traders and jewellery-makers, who once lived here.

If you happen to be in Hanoi during the wet season,there are plenty of museums and art galleries, such as theNational Museum of Vietnamese History and theContemporary Arts Centre, to while away a rainy after-noon and see how Communist Vietnam presents itselftoday. At the other end of the scale of “attractions” is theeerie Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, where the Chairman’sembalmed body lies in state.

Less than 100 miles from Hanoi is the sereneUNESCO World Heritage Site of Halong Bay, named asone of the New 7 Wonders of Nature last year. Over3,000 craggy limestone monoliths topped with verdantforest rise out of the sea up to 100 metres (300ft) high.

There are many ways to explore the area but mosttourists opt for a tour on a traditional junk boat.Overnight and multi-day tours are available, with vary-ing levels of comfort from very basic to semi-luxurious,or day trips can be taken to explore the beaches andfloating fishing villages in the area. You can also exploreon cruise ships such as the Emeraude, a modern replicaof a vintage paddle-wheel steamer that first sailed thebay 105 years ago.

It’s possible to stay on some of the islands, with CatBa being the most developed and popular place. InHalong Bay, cavers can explore the stalactites hanginglike stone icicles from the overhanging rocks or take akayak trip to quietly enjoy the dramatic landscape andsecret lagoons away from the crowds.

As I made my way through these timeless formationsit felt a world away from the beeping bikes and bustlingmarkets of Vietnam’s cities. But it’s this contrast thatmakes Vietnam so exciting to explore.

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off the beaten track n vietnam

Amy Watkins loves South East Asia; from Filipino beachesand buzzing Vietnam, to Borneo’s jungles and the gentlepeople of Cambodia and Thailand. Eating a thousand-year-oldegg in Hong Kong has been her only exception.

vietnam facts

when to goAvoid busy Tet (New Year) in late January.October-March is winter monsoonseason in the north, but is warm anddry in the south. April-October bringshot and humid weather outside ofmountain regions.

getting thereNational flag carrier Vietnam Airlines(www.vietnamairlines.com) recently introduced direct flights fromthe UK, or you can fly via other counties with Thai Air, Emirates, QatarAirways, Qantas, Lufthansa, British Airways or Air France. Arrange a visabefore you leave.

getting around Travelling by public buses can be uncomfortable, making domestic flyingwith Vietnam Airlines and Jetstar Pacific (www.jetstar.com) anattractive option. Other methods include air-conditioned “backpacker”buses or a train between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Cars withdrivers can be hired and “cyclo” rickshaws are used in towns.

sportPlay golf on the Ho Chi Minh Golf Trail(www.hochiminhgolftrail.com), with courses from the far northaround Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City in the far south.

accommodation Budget places cater for backpackers, but luxury hotel chains such asSofitel, Six Senses, Intercontinental, Le Meridien and Park Hyatt havehotels in cities and resorts; prices are cheap compared to Europe.Among iconic hotels are colonial French veteran, Sofitel LegendMetropole Hanoi (www.sofitel.com), in the capital and Ho Chi MinhCity landmark, The Caravelle (www.caravellehotel.com). Spa resorthotels include the Nam Hai (www.ghmluxuryhotels.com) in Hoi An.

tour operators Audley Travel (www.audleytravel.com) and Cox & Kings(www.coxandkings.co.uk) offer escorted tours, as do Kuoni(www.kuoni.co.uk), Ampersand Travel(www.ampersandtravel.com), Bamboo Travel(www.bambootravel.co.uk), Tropical Sky (www.tropicalsky.co.uk)and Tucan Tours (www.tucantravel.com), while W&O(www.wandotravel.com) features the luxury Victoria Express Trainfrom Hanoi with stays at a mountain resort. Or you can self-builditineraries through Vietnam Travel Plan

(www.vietnamtravelplan.co.uk).

tourist informationVisit the Vietnam NationalAdministration of Tourism’s website,www.vietnamtourism.com, forofficial information, or go towww.vietnamtourism.org.vn for

informative features.

Kuon

i

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ical S

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AMAW

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n Khai Dinh statues

n Wooden bridgein Hanoi

n Fishmarket

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Almost two years ago the golfing world washeld spellbound when Europe’s heroes tookon the might of the USA at Celtic Manorand snatched the Ryder Cup from theirgrasp. The duel produced many memorablemoments and a nail-biting climax on the

first-ever Monday final day, yet perhaps the enduringvision is of the torrential rain and ensuing mudfestwhich took it into the extra day.

That’s a shame, because Celtic Manor’s Twenty TenGolf Course not only provided the perfect stage for theclash, but it should have also been a showcase for thewonderful golf available throughout South Wales.

I was lucky enough to have been there on “MagicMonday” – albeit in a wheelchair after a knee operationa few days earlier – and when I bumped into a seniorofficial from Visit Wales, the country’s tourist office, hequipped that they might take out full-page adverts in thenational papers proclaiming “It pours, we reign”. Theydidn’t, but the rain association remained, even though thefinal day was played in glorious sunshine.

A frequent golfing visitor to the region in recentyears, and in all seasons, I have to say the weather godshave always smiled on me there – even if those watchingover my golf haven’t.

Named European Golf Resort of the Year for 2011 inthe golf industry’s prestigious IAGTO Awards, CelticManor is one of my favourite places to stay and play golf.

The first view of the Newport resort’s luxury, 330-roomhotel from the M4 shortly after crossing the SevernBridge may be more akin to Colditz, but the welcome isas warm as you get in the hillsides of the former miningvalleys this part of Wales is also famous for. The impres-sive carved dragons that wind broodily around the lobby’shuge pillars leave no doubt as to where you are, either.

imposing clubhouseThe golf is also impressive. The Twenty Ten Course wascreated for the Ryder Cup, with several new holesblended with existing ones taken from other courses.The resulting course meanders through the pretty UskValley, running alongside the snaking river at one point,before traversing a hillside to culminate on the grand-stand 18th green, beyond a lake and below the imposingclubhouse.

Celtic Manor’s other courses – the Robert Trent JonesSr-designed Roman Road Course and the MontgomerieCourse, designed by victorious Ryder Cup captain ColinMontgomerie – are every bit as enjoyable to play andhave their own clubhouse. Golfers keen on improving,even in the rain, have an all-weather, short game practicearea, indoor putting green and covered driving range,while a new Adventure Golf Course emulates some ofgolf’s most famous holes in miniature for all the family.

Besides its courses and main hotel, Celtic Manor’s1,400 acres also encompass the 19th century Manor

The 2010 Ryder Cup put southern Wales in the global spotlight like never before. Yet the weatherand high drama it produced overshadowed the quality of golf this land of dragons and castles hasto offer, as Peter Ellegard reports

Enter the dragon

Visit Wales

pack your clubs n south wales

n Celtic Manor Resort – Twenty Ten Course and River Usk

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pack your clubs n south wales

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House hotel, two spas, two health clubs, fishing, ashooting school, tennis, mountain biking, walking trailsand a Treetop Adventure featuring high and low ropewire walkways and bridges.South Wales has other golf resorts boasting excellent

courses for golfers who like to combine a stay with play-ing on their doorstep.St Pierre, A Marriott Hotel & Country Club offers

two golf courses as part of a resort spanning 400 acresof rolling parkland with a converted 14th century manorhouse at its heart. Standout course is the 7,000-yard Old Course; it

opened in 1962 and has hosted 14 European Tour eventsincluding the Dunlop Masters as well as the Curtis Cupand Solheim Cup. The par-3 18th hole, which has a lakeand a green directly in front of the resort, makes for astirring finish. The par 68 Mathern Course, which meas-ures 5,730 yards, was remodelled in 2008 by EuropeanGolf Design.

diversityJust six miles from Cardiff city centre, the Vale Resorthas a 143-room hotel, spa and two championshipgolf courses set in 650 acres of parkland. LikeCeltic Manor, it is a Ryder Cup Wales Centre ofExcellence – one of just five in Wales.The Lake Course has staged a number of

PGA professional championships and is domi-nated by a 20-acre lake, with water coming intoplay on 12 holes and its signature hole, the 12th,on an island green. The 8th hole overlooks thelargest heronry in Wales. Its sibling, the par 73Wales National, opened in 2003 and is one of the

off course attractionsSouth Wales has plenty to do away from the fairwaysbut still within easy reach. Nature lovers can takewalks in the woods through the forested Wye Valley, adesignated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, orexplore the wilds of the Brecon Beacons NationalPark (www.breconbeacons.org), taking a side tripon the Brecon Mountain Railway(www.breconmountainrailway.co.uk).

You can also take in the splendour of the cliffsalong the Glamorgan Heritage Coast(www.glamorganheritagecoast.com) or venturefurther west for the Pembrokeshire Coast NationalPark (www.pcnpa.org.uk).

Reminders of the South Wales valleys’ industrialheritage live on with Pontypridd’s Rhondda HeritagePark (www.rhonddaheritagepark.com) and theimpressive Big Pit National Coal Museum(www.museumwales.ac.uk/en/bigpit) in theBlaenavon World Heritage Site, where you can takean underground tour of the former coalmine.

Go back in time to discover the remains of theRoman fortress and amphitheatre in Caerleon(www.caerleon.net), close to Celtic Manor. SouthWales also has a number of castles to visit, includingCaerphilly (www.caerphillycastle.com), one of thelargest in the UK, and the ornate Gothic fantasy ofCardiff Castle (www.cardiffcastle.com).Cardiff also has a host of other attractions,entertainment and nightlife.

“The breadthof golfmatches theregion’sscenic andtopographicdiversity”

Visit

Wal

es

Visit

Brita

in/B

ritai

n on

Vie

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ter

Elle

gard

Pete

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n 3rd hole on Celtic Manor'sTwenty Ten Course

n Roman fortress at Caerleon

n Caerphilly is one of severalcastles in South Walesn Vale Resort’s long

Wales National Course

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longest courses outside America at 7,433 yards. A Euro-pean Tour tournament course, it is a true test of golf withmature trees and water features that is as striking inwinter as in summer.Bryn Meadows is 20 minutes from the centre of

Cardiff and features a tree-lined, par 71 parkland coursewith an on-site, 42-room boutique hotel, a spa andleisure facilities.With everything from historic links to heathland and

parkland course, the breadth of golf in South Wales matchesthe region’s scenic and topographic diversity, which incor-porates such delights as the high cliffs of the GlamorganHeritage Coast, the forested Wye Valley and the BreconBeacons as well as the once-industrialised valleys. Venerable Royal Porthcawl enjoys a magnificent

setting right on the Rest Bay seashore between Cardiffand Swansea and is rated one of the UK’s top linkscourses. But mind its cavernous pot bunkers; once theysnare errant balls they often hold them to ransom.

high teeAnother two noteworthy coastal veterans are Southern-down, a links-style downland course with stunning vistasover sea and countryside and where grazing sheep formmobile hazards, and Pyle & Kenfig, a traditional linkscourse originally designed by Harry Colt and remodelledamidst dunes by Mackenzie Ross after much of thecourse had been requisitioned in World War II.The south-western corner of Wales has more golfing

delights, including Tenby Golf Club, a classic linkslayout set in dunes behind a sweeping arc of beach andsaid to be the oldest club in Wales, plus another classiclinks in the shape of Ashburnham and the first NicklausDesign course in Wales, Machynys Peninsula Golf &Country Club, both near Llanelli.Cardiff alone has 18 courses in and around it, with

Swansea having over a dozen and Newport havingseveral besides Celtic Manor, among them St Mellons.You can also enjoy golf on high inland; Morlais Castleand centenarian West Monmouthshire – Britain’s highestgolf course, with its 14th tee 1,500 above sea level –both offer views across the Brecon Beacons.Or motor on down to the Rolls of Monmouth course,

set within the 600-acre Rolls Estate in the Wye Valley,former home of Charles Stuart Rolls, co-founder ofRolls-Royce. The mansion’s one-time workshop is nowthe golf course clubhouse. Play there, or indeed anywhere in South Wales, and

you will be positively purring.

80 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 2012

south wales golf factswhen to goPlay all year, but be prepared for changeableconditions. Inland courses may getoccasional snow in winter.

getting thereCourses around Newport can bereached via the M4 in two hours fromLondon.

packages and informationThe Greens of Southern Wales (0870 600 6088;www.greensofsouthernwales.com) has details of golf courses in theregion as well as accommodation and packages information. Themedpackages include golf and spa breaks.

golf resortsCeltic Manor: www.celtic-manor.comVale Resort: www.vale-hotel.comSt Pierre, A Marriott Hotel & Country Club: www.marriott.co.ukBryn Meadows Golf, Hotel & Spa: www.brynmeadows.com

other golf coursesRoyal Porthcawl Golf Club: www.royalporthcawl.comSoutherndown Golf Course: www.southerndowngolfclub.co.ukCottrell Park Golf Resort: www.golfwithus.comPyle & Kenfig: www.pandkgolfclub.co.uk

West Monmouthshire Golf Club:www.westmongolfclub.co.uk

other accommodationLlansanffraed Court Hotel, nearAbergavenny: www.llch.co.ukRadisson Blu, Cardiff:www.radissonblu.co.uk/cardiffCeltic Haven, Saundersfoot:

www.celtichaven.co.uk

Visit

Wal

es

Visit

Wal

es

Visit

Wal

es

pack your clubs n south wales

n Watch out for RoyalPorthcawl's deep pot bunkers

n Mind the sheep at Southerndown

n St Pierre’shistoric manor

n Celtic ManorResort

Mar

riott

Hot

els

& R

esor

ts.

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golf n news

Fans watching recent golftournaments may havenoticed a fashion link

between three of Europe’s topstars. England’s Lee Westwood,Irishman Paul McGinley andDane Thomas Bjorn are amongthe golfing elite to sport the lat-est in stylish belts and buckles.

All three are brand ambassa-dors for Druh Belts and Bucklesand wear the company’s distinc-tive “db” buckles that combineclassic yet fun designs when theycompete.

There are 15 leathers in differ-ent embossed styles, fromcrocodile to ostrich effect, as wellas 10 water snakeskins to choosefrom that come in traditionalblacks and browns but also inunusual pastels and metallics fromturquoise to hot pink. The stylishbelts are matched with the recog-nisable logo buckles made ofbrushed nickel, polished silver orgold, while others featurediamante and enamel infills.

The buckles areinterchangeable,allowing numer-ouscombinations so

you can customise your own indi-vidual Druh Belt to ensure that youlook smart on the course andcasual off it.

Available online at www.druhbeltsandbuckles.com,Druh belts retail from £125 forsnakeskin and £79 for leather.lFor your chance to WIN a white orblack Player’s Collection belt fromDruh Belts, worth £79, go towww.tlm-magazine.co.uk andclick on Competitions. Terms andconditions apply. Closing dateSeptember 15, 2012.

GOLF CLIPSNew, year-round weekly flights toTurkey’s Antalya from Stansted Airportare a boon for golfers heading to thenearby resort of Belek, with its 14golf courses. Atlasjet carries golfclubs free of charge, with no needto pre-book, while passengers alsoget an extra 20kg hold and 8kghand luggage allowance. EkonomiPlusfares on the Saturday flights start from£88. Book online at www.atlasjet.com.

Skibo Castle’s private Carnegie Club has opened its golf courseto non-resident golfers for the first time since it became private in2007. Limited public tee times are available on special request forits championship Carnegie Links course, located near Dornoch innorth-east Scotland, for play until October. This exclusive golfingexperience costs £300 per head, including lunch. To book, call thepro shop on 01862 894 660 or send an email [email protected].

n Cornelia GolfClub, Belek

n Win aDruh Belt

Buckle upn Lee Westwood

in action

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travel update n news

SafetyfirstArecent survey by health and safety

experts CheckSafetyFirst.com hasfound that seven in 10 holidaymakers

have fallen ill while on holiday, with more thanhalf of respondents getting food poisoning. Diseases including salmonella and listeria

are often to blame, frequently picked up inhotels and restaurants that do not followcorrect hygiene regulations. With one third ofpeople claiming that between three and fivedays of their holiday are affected by illness and25% of people returning home with theirillness, CheckSafetyFirst.com offers precau-

tionary advice about how to avoid sickness onholiday. Top tips include researching where you eat,

checking out the cleanliness of the establish-ment and checking your food is hot and cookedthoroughly. In hotels, take care when eating

from buffets and check to ensure that food isfresh and served at the correct temperature.To see if your holiday hotel has met Check

Safety First’s stringent criteria, or for moreadvice and information, visit the website at www.checksafetyfirst.com.

Booked a summer holiday but havenot yet decided what to do duringyour stay? New ticketing website

GoSeeDo is ideal to find, research andbook the best travel experiences, both inthe UK and around the world. Founded by Attraction World, the UK’s

leading attractions supplier to the traveltrade, GoSeeDo can help arrangeanything from Disneyland Paris tickets tohot air balloon rides in Orlando and fromafternoon tea at Harrods to footballstadium tours and children’s Ferrari driv-ing experiences.The website is designed to make it

easier for families to plan and pre-bookwhere to go and on what days, avoiding

long queues at major attractions. Even better, by pre-booking tickets

online in advance with GoSeeDo,customers can save money comparedwith buying at the gate. For more infor-mation or to book tickets, go towww.goseedo.com or call 0800 9805551.

Just the ticket

Salt sellerLatin America specialist airline Air Europa, which hasan extensive list of destinations accessible from theUK via its Gatwick-Madrid service, launches a newroute to Bolivia in November as it continuesexpanding its long-haul flights programme.Destinations currently include Buenos Aires

(Argentina), Caracas (Venezuela), Havana (Cuba),Santo Domingo (Dominican Republic) and Lima(Peru). The new twice-weekly Santa Cruz route willopen up access to the Amazon rainforest and theworld’s largest salt plains of Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia. The Spanish airline has also boosted its Gatwick-

Madrid link by switching from Embraer 195 to Boeing737 aircraft, adding an extra 120 seats a day. A new partnership with holidaycars.com allows Air

Europa customers to easily book a vehicle on itsglobal car rental network at the same time asbooking flights. For more information, go towww.aireuropa.com or call 0871 423 0717 tospeak with a UK-based reservation agent.

If you are heading to New York thissummer, a show on Broadway is amust-do. The Broadway Collection offers a

selection of 24 top-selling Broadwaytheatre shows including classics such asPhantom of the Opera, Lion King,Mamma Mia and Mary Poppins andnew shows such as Newsies, Chaplinand Cirque du Soleil’s Zarkana. Tickets are available through UK

suppliers and tour operators includingGoSeeDo, Attractions Tickets Direct,Virgin Holidays, TUI andLastminute.com. For a full list of avail-able shows, go online towww.broadwaycollection.com or visitwww.facebook.com/TheBroadwayCollection.

On Broadway

Mel

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GoS

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oTh

e Br

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Guy

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n Egypt's Melia Sharmresort meets Check

Safety First's standards

n GoSeeDo makesholiday outings easyfor families

n Pre-book Broadwayshows such as Newsies

n Driving acrossBolivia's salt plains

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travel update n news

Back to AlaskaFollowing a year’s absence, Oceania Cruises returnsto Alaskan waters from May to mid-August, 2013,with a choice of seven itineraries and optional shoreexcursions including bear watching, sea-kayaking anda rainforest zip wire. The Alaska cruises, featuringhighlights such as the Hubbard Glacier and the TracyArm Fjord, are on the 684-guest Regatta. Seven-nightsailings cost from £1,584 per person.www.oceaniacruises.com.

GoodbyeRubycruise daysSaga Ruby, the last cruiseship built in the UK, will beretired from the Saga Cruisesfleet at the beginning of 2014. The ship will celebrateits ruby anniversary – it was built in 1973 at JarrowShipyard on Tyneside – with one final Round theWorld Cruise, as well as cruising to many of theports visited during its 40-year service.http://travel.saga.co.uk/holidays

All around the worldTo mark its 20th World

Cruise and its 25thanniversary, luxurycruise line CrystalCruises has unveiled anew route – acompletecircumnavigation of the

globe in 2015. The 108-night voyage by Crystal

Serenity will consist of sixsegments: Miami to Callao/Lima (16 nights),Callao/Lima to Auckland (19 nights), Auckland toPerth (21 nights), Perth to Cape Town (21 nights),Cape Town to Rio de Janeiro (15 nights) and Rio deJaneiro to Miami (16 nights). www.crystalcruises.co.uk

Holidaymakers planning to visitAmerica this year risk beingrefused permission to travel – if

they forget to check everything is inorder beforehand. The Electronic System for Travel

Authorisation (ESTA), which assesses aperson’s eligibility to enter the USA underthe rules of its Visa Waiver Programme,was introduced on a voluntary basis inAugust, 2008. It became compulsory fornon-visa-issued travellers from the UK inJanuary, 2009. The service was initially free, but a

charge for the two-year ESTA introducedin September, 2010, means that manypeople will have ESTAs that are due toexpire and may not realise it.

Natasha-Rachel Smith, consumer affairseditor with TopCashBack (www.topcashback.co.uk), a free cash-back website with 1.5 million members, haswarned that travellers heading across theAtlantic should check the validity of theirESTA, as airlines are instructed to refusepassengers boarding without a valid one. While ESTA approval doesn’t guaran-

tee entry into the US, it authorises travelto the country and costs just $14 (£9);applications can only be made online withpayment by credit card. Smith alsoadvises avoiding copycat sites chargingextra, unnecessary fees with ESTA appli-cations and to only use the officialDepartment for Homeland Security site:https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta/esta.html.

With more grandparents takingon childcare, Silver TravelAdvisor, a website offering

travel reviews and advice for over-50s,has come up with the top 10 tips fromits forum for grandparents travellingwith young children during the schoolsummer holidays. Suggestions include practice runs such

as days out before a longer trip, gettingfamiliar with their routines, offeringtreats, making frequent stops and beingpatient with teenagers using electronicdevices. For more information on Silver Travel

Advisor, visit the website atwww.silvertraveladvisor.com.

Silver tips for toddler trips

ESTA la visa – and pronto

Pete

r El

lega

rd

Oce

ania

Cru

ises

Saga

Cru

ises

Crys

tal C

ruise

s

Silve

r Tra

vel A

dviso

r

n An expired ESTA may well putthe brakes on a USA holiday

n Travelling withgrandchildren needs

planning

n Crystal Serenity:global voyage

n CelebrateSaga Ruby’sfinal cruises

n Cruising backto Alaska

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Stretching from the Thames in Oxfordshirethrough Buckinghamshire and up intoHertfordshire and Bedfordshire, theChiltern Hills epitomise the idyllic imageof unspoilt English countryside. Sleepyhamlets of picture-postcard cottages framed

by wisteria and rambling roses and set within perfectgardens, quaint village pubs alongside ancient churches,a rolling landscape of grassland, woods and wind-swirled crops – they are quintessentially English scenesthat should be set to stirring music such as Elgar’sNimrod or Tudor folk song Greensleeves.

Kent may be known as the Garden of England, but

the Chilterns landscape truly embodies a classicalEnglish Country Garden; if viewed from above, thefields, chalk downland and meadows would resemble agiant patchwork lawn draped over gentle uplands withmagnificent beechwoods and tree-filled valleys asborders, pretty villages like random flower beds, wind-ing country lanes as paths and the snaking Thames awater feature forming its southern boundary.

The Chiltern Hills have been designated an Area ofOutstanding Natural Beauty, one of 33 in England.Bounded by the M25 to the east, it is the closest AONBto London and covers 650 square miles of the HomeCounties that just beg to be explored.

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Englishcountry garden

The chalk downlands of the Chiltern Hills span some of the country’s prettiest and most pristinecountryside – scenery that, according to Peter Ellegard, evokes the true spirit of rural England

on your doorstep n chilterns

“If there is a corner ofthe land thatis foreverEngland, this is it”

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on your doorstep n chilterns

The pristine scenery is interrupted by only two largetowns, Luton and High Wycombe. Mostly, the landscapeis dotted by villages and delightful small towns such asAmersham, Tring and Marlow.

The Chilterns are a joy to visit at any time of year, withwoodlands carpeted in bluebells in spring, meadowserupting in wild flowers in summer, autumnal yellows andgolds contrasting the greenery and the frosts and snow ofwinter. And, all the while, the glorious sight of red kitesperforming spectacular aerobatics as they wheel overhead.Re-introduced only just over 20 years ago, they are now afamiliar and welcome feature of the Chiltern skies.

footpathsWalking is one of the best ways to explore the area andenjoy its scenery. A network of around 1,250 miles(over 2,000km) of footpaths and bridleways criss-crossthe Chilterns, among them two National Trails.

The Ridgeway (www.nationaltrail.co.uk/ridgeway)is an ancient path linking Avebury in Wiltshire with Iving-hoe Beacon in Buckinghamshire, along which peoplehave travelled for 5,000 years or more. It takeswalkers through woodlands and naturereserves in the Chilterns, offering uppanoramic vistas as it traverses the chalkridge. Shorter, circular walks can beundertaken along the route.

The Thames Path National Trail (www.nationaltrail.co.uk/thamespath),which follows the river from its source to

London, skirts the southern edge of the Chilternsbetween Wallingford and Taplow. Along the way

it takes in the genteel rowing mecca ofHenley-on-Thames and the Grade I-listedformal gardens and parkland of Cliveden (www.clivedenhouse.co.uk), the formercountry house where one of the greatestpolitical scandals – the Profumo Affair,involving Government minister JohnProfumo and prostitute Christine Keeler, the

n Watlington Hill, Oxfordshire

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n Henley Regatta

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mistress of an alleged Russian spy – happened in theearly 1960s. Owned by the National Trust, Cliveden hasbeen a luxury hotel since 1985, and you can even book aProfumo Affair Break, which includes a guided touroutlining the events.

A circular walking route of the Chilterns AONB isoffered by the signposted Chiltern Way, set up ChilternSociety (www.chilternsociety.org.uk) volunteers aspart of its millennium project. The original 134-mile(214km) route goes from Hemel Hempstead throughplaces including Marlow, Hambleden, Stokenchurch andthe Dunstable Downs, taking in part of the Ridgeway. Itnow has optional extensions at the northern and southernends, adding 27 miles (43km) and 31 miles (50km)respectively, with a new Berkshire Loop adding a further28 miles (45km) established in October 2010 to mark the10th anniversary of the Chiltern Way. That now takes theroute to a maximum of 221 miles (352km).

There are many short and medium walks to do in theChilterns, too; some are stile-free and easy for the lessable, and a number of them start from railway stations.

watercress bedsAmong the many available walks are a series wonder-fully-called Walk Like the Clappers. These three walks,which range from a gentle 1.5-mile stroll to a seven-mile hike and take in some of the most scenic areas ofthe northern Chilterns, are not named because you haveto speed-walk the routes, but because they go throughthe National Trust-owned Sharpenhoe Clappers(www.nationaltrust.org.uk/sharpenhoe-clappers),a woodland and ancient chalk escarpment offeringsuperb views.

The Chiltern Society organises year-round walks opento non-members. Sunday and weekday walks take abouttwo and a half hours while regular day walks cover 10-12miles. More than 40 free walks leaflets are available on itswebsite, and its online shop also sells a range of footpathmaps covering the region. Detailed Ordnance Survey(www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk) maps are well worth buying.

Cycling is another great way to see the countryside.Adventurous cyclists can cover all 170 miles of the

Chilterns Cycleway, a circular route through the fourcounties that is signposted throughout and mainlyfollows roads. To do it all would need a week, if done atleisure and allowing plenty of stops to take in pubs,villages and historic places of interest en route. Sectionsof it can be done as day trips, and there are many cycle

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on your doorstep n chilterns

chilterns commonsAn iconic feature of the Chilterns since the Medieval period,commons are areas of public land ranging from small grass verges towoodlands and expanses of grassland. There are still around 200commons in the Chilterns and they provide an important wildlifehabitat as well as space for people to enjoy.With commons under increasing threat from development, a new

four-year initiative called the Chilterns Commons Project waslaunched in September, 2011, with a £400,000 Heritage Lottery Fundgrant. Coordinated by the Chilterns Conservation Board and with

volunteers helping from the Chiltern Society, the scheme aims toresearch their history, study how they are faring and encouragepeople to make the most of them for recreation.For more information and to find out about volunteer opportunities,go to www.chilternsociety.org.uk/commons-project.php.

red kites in the chilternsOne of the most common sights in the skiesabove the Chilterns, particularly in the south andeast, is of flocks of soaring and tumbling red kites.Yet these beautiful raptors, distinguishable bytheir forked tails, had been persecuted toextinction in England in the 19th century and wereonly reintroduced in a RSPB project in 1989.The Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty was

one of the first reintroduction sites and over a five-year period more than 90 birdswere brought from Spain and released. The first successful breeding happened in1992, since when numbers have increased steadily. Today, there are up to 600resident pairs in the Chilterns and the birds have full legal protection.One of the best places to see them is around Watlington, on the Icknield Way

trail, as they glide and swoop over the chalk escarpments. Some chicks are taggedand ringed for identification, the tag on the left wing being yellow for the Chilternswith a second colour denoting the year born. For more information, visitwww.redkites.net.

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shops located throughout the AONB or just beyondwhere you can rent bikes for the day or longer.

There are many fascinating places where you canlose yourself for an hour or two, or even a day. TheChiltern Society runs three places worth a visit. LaceyGreen Windmill, near Princes Risborough in Bucking-hamshire, is the oldest smock windmill in England,dating from 1650, and is open on Sundays and BankHolidays from the first Sunday in May to the lastSunday in September. The Ewelme Watercress Beds, onthe western edge of the Chilterns AONB in Oxfordshire,extend the entire length of the village and cover 6.5acres (2.5 hectares), with produce still going to CoventGarden Market. It is owned as well as managed by thesociety, as is 36-acre (14.5ha) Bottom Wood, a naturereserve comprising mostly ancient woodland nearStokenchurch in Buckhinghamshire.

model villageBuckinghamshire’s Chiltern Open Air Museum(www.coam.org.uk) is a collection of over 30 recon-structed traditional buildings from the area tracing2,000 years of history, with its information centre inwhat was reputed to be one of Henry VIII’s huntinglodges. Themed events are held from the end of Marchto late October and the museum has also had starringroles in TV and movie productions, including DowntonAbbey and Midsomer Murders. The timeless village ofTurville is another favourite TV and film location.

On a smaller scale, the Bekonscot Model Village &Railway (www.bekonscot.co.uk) is the world’s oldestoriginal model village and has enjoyed many royal visitsduring its 80-plus year history. Enid Blyton’s book,Enchanted Village, is based on Bekonscot.

The National Trust (www.nationaltrust.org.uk)maintains a number of attractions in the region. Theyencompass several scenic beauty spots such as WatlingtonHill, Dunstable Downs, Pulpit Hill and Coombe Hill, thehighest point in the Chilterns, as well as pretty villagesincluding West Wycombe and Bradenham and statelyhomes such as West Wycombe Park and Greys Court.

Nature lovers will also love exploring Chilterns woods,among them the Forestry Commission’s Wendover Woods(www.forestry.gov.uk/wendoverwoods), on the edgeof an escarpment near Tring which is notable for its exten-sive spring bluebell displays and as the habitat of Europe’ssmallest bird, the firecrest. If you want to get active, thereis a family cycle trail as well as horse riding, a nearby

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on your doorstep n chilterns

chiltern facts

mountain downhill bike track and the Go Ape forest adven-ture course (http://goape.co.uk/days-out/wendover),with tree-top high wires, crossings and zip wires.

One attraction definitely worth a family visit is theaward-winning Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre(www.roalddahlmuseum.org) in the picturesque Buck-inghamshire village of Great Missenden. The author livedin the village for 36 years and the museum, which isaimed at six to 12-year-olds, features two fun galleriesincluding his original writing hut, as well as the interac-tive Story Centre. You can grab a meal, including a sliceof Bogtrotter cake, at the on-site Café Twit.

One dark cloud hangs over the Chilterns – the threatof the HS2 high-speed rail line carving its way throughthe landscape. Campaigners have already taken the battleto Westminster and they have promised to fight to thebitter end. Who can blame them? If there is a corner ofthe land that is forever England, this is it.

getting thereBy car, the M25 skirts the eastern edge ofthe Chilterns region, while the M40 andM1 bisect it. Chiltern Trains(www.chilternrailways.co.uk)operates through the Chilterns fromLondon’s Marylebone station. LondonMidland (www.londonmidland.com)trains from Euston stop at Berkhamsted andTring, First Capital Connect(www.firstcapitalconnect.co.uk) serves Hitchin from Kings Crossand First Great Western (www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk) trains stopat Henley-on-Thames from Paddington.

getting aroundSeveral bus operators run services in the Chilterns. For information, goto http://traveline.info. There are 20 Chiltern rail stations on fourlines, so getting around by train is also feasible.

accommodationThe Chilterns offers a host of options for stays in the region, includingcampsites, holiday cottages, B&Bs, pubs and luxury hotels. Find B&Bsonline at the Chiltern Accommodation Association website,www.chilternsaccommodation.co.uk. Notable hotels includeCliveden (www.clivedenhouse.co.uk) and the Crown

(www.thecrownamersham.com), inAmersham, where movie Four Weddings and

a Funeral was partly filmed.

more informationThe Chilterns Area of OutstandingNatural Beauty:www.chilternsaonb.org

The Chiltern Society:www.chilternsociety.org.uk

Visit Buckinghamshire:www.visitbuckinghamshire.orgTourism South East: www.visitsoutheastengland.com

n Pitstone Windmillin Buckinghamshire

n The RoaldDahl Museum

n WaddesdonManor

n Queen’s HeadPub, Little Marlow

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travel n tech

For travellers packing for a memorableholiday, the latest marvel from Austrianprecision optical specialist Swarovski

Optik can truly bring the world into sharpfocus.Edge-to-edge focus, in fact, thanks to

field flattener lenses on the new EL 32Swarovision binoculars that produce avirtually flat image to give perfect sharp-ness right across the lenses and anunrestricted field of view, even for peoplewearing glasses. The high-definition optics reduce colour

fringing and so create maximum colourcontrast, while optimised coatings make fortruer-to-life, brighter images.The ultimate in luxury, high-end viewing,

the EL 32 binoculars have been designed withthe needs of the discerning traveller in mindand to be simple to use on the go. Weighingjust 580 grams, they are lighter than theprevious model and feature a wrap-aroundgrip to give maximum stability in use evenwith one hand. The large focusing wheel can

also be operated whilewearing gloves.There are two models, 8x32

and 10x32, and they come in either green orsand-brown. As standard, they even comewith an adaptor for compact digital camerasto capture the amazing clarity of chosensubjects, as well as a field bag, lens protectorsand strap. The 8x32 binoculars cost £1,540and the 10x32 ones cost £1,570.

For more details on theEL 32 Swarovision binocu-

lars and other models, go towww.swarovskioptik.com.

lYou can WIN a pair of Pocket 8x20 binocu-lars, also from Swarovski Optik. Light, ruggedand compact, folding to a width of just 2.2inches, they are worth £495. Just go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click onCompetitions. Terms and conditions apply.Closing date September 22, 2012.

Camping out this sum-mer? Worry no moreabout leaving your

tent unoccupied at nightthanks to a new motion-activated LED night light.The Mr Beams UniversalLight detects movementand will turn on in thedark as soon as a tent dooris unzipped, warning awaypotential intruders.The light detects

motion up to 10 feet (threemetres) away and automat-ically shuts off 30 secondsafter the last movement isdetected.It can also be used to

provide internal light whenthe tent is occupied and ismore practical than a torchas its flat base will sit onany surface. Its weather-proof design also means itcan be used outdoors,

either to find your way toand from the tent or foruse in campsite toilets.Using the latest low-

power LED technology, itproduces a bright whitelight powered by four AAbatteries that last a year onaverage.The Mr Beams Univer-

sal Light retails for £12.95and is available fromwww.mrbeams.co.uk.

Easy readerA versatile new Ebook reader, the TrekStor Pyrus notonly puts thousands of books into the palm of yourhand, but its compatibility with a wide range offormats including PDF and EPUB also allows you toread your own document files wherever you are.The Pyrus incorporates TrekStor eReader Suitesoftware, which provides an intuitive way for users tobrowse, preview, download and read content. It usesdigital ink technology on its six-inch screen for paper-like clarity and has portrait/landscape switching foreasy reading. The 4GB internal storage holds about 4,000 booksand there is also a slot for microSD and microSDHCmemory cards. The Pyrus eBook Reader has an RRP of just £59.99and is available from www.trekstor-reader.com.

Intent on security

Perfect vision

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Lifestyle Thailand is TourismThailand’s first-ever mobile travelapp. Available free in the iTunesApp Store and Android Market, ithighlights 20%-50% discounts in300 selected restaurants, touristattractions and accommodation.The app features eight travelexperiences – Chic, Romantic,Breezy, Thainess, Adventure,Wellness, Easy n' Slow and Family

– and tourists can create their own trips.www.tourismthailand.co.uk

iPad users cannow enjoy fast andeasy access toKuoni’s completerange of brochures,videos, travel articlesfeed and websitewith the touroperator’s new app. Free to download from Apple’sApp Store, it is automatically kept up to date withKuoni’s brochures, which, once downloaded, can beread any time, even offline. www.kuoni.co.uk

Keep safe on UK beachesthis summer with the new, freeRNLI beach finder Android andApple app. It locates the user’sposition and lists the nearestlifeguarded beaches, providinginformation on water qualityand real-time weather, detailsof the beaches and any specifichazards, and lifeguard patroldates and times. The app alsoincludes fun elements.www.rnli.org/beach

Fred Olsen CruiseLines has launched afree app for the iPhoneand iPad to enable gueststo find their ideal cruiseholiday. Main featuresinclude the ability tosearch for cruisedepartures throughout2012 and 2013 up untilearly 2014, view fullcruise details, referencereal-time cabin pricing and availability, and check outfeatured destination highlights.www.fredolsencruises.com

APPS CORNER

travel n tech

Listening to yourmusic while on holi-day or enjoying a

summer picnic has sud-denly got a whole lot easi-er, thanks to clever, newgo-anywhere speakers.The BRAVEN Six

Series speakers connectwirelessly with any Blue-tooth-compatible gadgetsuch as smartphones,iPads and laptops to makeyour music, movies orgames sound bigger andbetter. What’s more, theycharge any smartphone,via USB cable, even whilethe music plays on. Theycan also act as a hands-free speakerphone and bedaisy-chained together forparties.The rugged, shock-

resistant 625s sportsmodel comes with awaterproof bag anda USB LED torch –great for entertain-ment off thebeaten track.The BRAVEN

600 model, avail-

able in red or dark grey,gives up to 12 hours’ playtime and costs £129.99.The sporty BRAVEN625s, coming inblack/grey or green/grey,plays for up to 16 hoursand costs £149.99 includ-ing waterproof bag andLED torch. The BRAVEN650 model is made fromaircraft-grade aluminium,has a luxury silver finish,supports higher-qualityaptX Bluetooth and playsfor up to 20 hours. It costs£159.99.The BRAVEN Six

Series is exclusivelydistributed in the UK byComputers Unlimited andis available direct fromwww.BRAVEN.eu plusretailers includingAmazon,

Selfridges and The ConranShop.lYou can WIN aBRAVEN 600 model,worth £129.99. Go towww.tlm-magazine.co.ukand click on Competitions.Terms and conditionsapply. Closing dateSeptember 22, 2012.

Cool sounds

Look and keep cool listening to yourmusic or while you take calls thissummer with the new Midland

SUBZERO Sun headphones.These snazzy headphones not only

look great but they are lined with cottonand have fabric on the outside, to helpkeep your ears cool if you are out in thehot sun.They also have a built-in microphone

compatible with iPhone, Blackberry andAndroid phones as well as MP3 players,so you can make and take calls whilewearing them.Costing £34.95, they are available in

black or orange, online from www.nevadaradio.co.uk.

BRAVEN smart

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There is nothing like a holiday to recharge thebatteries and revive our spirits. But some-times they can create even more stress thanthey are meant to cure. Traffic jams, roadclosures, train delays – all can make gettingto the airport a panic-stricken nightmare, and

an expensive exercise or even an aborted trip if youmiss your flight.

Stay at an airport hotel the night before and it notonly removes the worry of getting to the terminal inplenty of time, even more important in these days ofincreased security checks and earlier check-in times, butit can also be part of the holiday experience.

It is often cheaper to book an overnight airport hotelstay combined with parking for the duration of your holi-day than it is to just park at the airport.

Value doesn’t have to mean cheap and cheerfulaccommodation, either. Top-quality airport hotels can besurprisingly affordable, particularly as part of a packagewith parking, and the earlier you book the greater thesavings you can make.

HolidayExtras.com (www.holidayextras.com)offers London area airport hotels with holiday parkingfrom only £85 in early September, with a night’s stay atan “Undercover” four-star hotel – you find out the iden-tity of the hotel after you have booked – at StanstedAirport and eight days’ parking.

If you prefer to know where you are staying, it has anight at the four-star Sheraton Skyline at Heathrow Airportwith a week’s parking for just £87, or you can choose aroom at the Sofitel Gatwick plus eight days’ personal park-ing – where you hand over the car keys for someone else topark it, then have it delivered to the airport on your return –for £163, both based on a September 2 stay.

Should you just want an overnight room prior toflying, the four-star Stansted Hilton at the same timecosts from just £49, a quad room at the three-star BestWestern Moat House at Gatwick is £53.10 or a nightin an Undercover four-star Heathrow hotel costs under£2 more, at £55. All prices are based on a searchcarried out on July 18.HolidayExtras.com offers airport hotel savings of up

to 40%. Advance bookings on parking can save up to

60%, with options including parking at the hotel,secured parking at the airport or nearby with transfers toand from the terminal, and meet and greet parking. Italso offers access to 38 lounges at 22 UK airports.

APH (www.aph.com) offers parking at hotels fromHeathrow’s Premier Travel Inn and Gatwick’s Worth andSkylane hotels at the budget end to luxury propertiessuch as the Crowne Plaza Hotel at Gatwick and theRenaissance at Heathrow, where Club level guest roomshave access to a Club Lounge giving views across therunways. Some hotels, including Gatwick’s Sofitel, arepackaged with parking at APH-owned car parks andoffer flexible durations.

Parking specialist BCP (www.parkbcp.co.uk) alsooffers airport hotels besides on and off-airport parking,through preferred partner HolidayExtras.com, whileSuperbreak (www.superbreak.com) offers rail travel inaddition to airport hotels and parking packages. Othercompanies offering airport hotels include Expedia(www.expedia.co.uk) and Lastminute.com (www.lastminute.com).

One thing to consider when booking a pre-flight stayis just how close the hotel is to the airport or terminal.Some, like the new £10million Holiday Inn SouthendAirport (www.holidayinn.com) which opens in Augustahead of the Paralympics or the 500-room Radisson BluStansted Airport (www.radissonblu.co.uk) whichboasts a Wine Tower Bar staffed by “angels” who soarup the glass tower suspended on wires to get bottles, arejust a short walk from the terminal. Hotels may be on an

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Flop and fly

focus: airport hotels

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airport shuttle bus route, while others can be severalmiles from both the airport and where you have to park.

Facilities are another factor to bear in mind. Somehotels, including the Radisson Blu Stansted and theRadisson Blu East Midlands which opened last October,offer free Wi-Fi but many others charge for it.

If creature comforts are not essential, you can opt fora minimalist family room at low-cost hotels such as theEtap Birmingham Airport (www.accorhotels.com).And if you want a touch of luxury, some hotels havepools and spas – so you can really get the holiday off toa relaxing start.

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checking out n hotel accommodation

HOTEL NEWSMarch 2013 will see thetransformation of an 18thcentury Hampshire manorhouse and estate into anintimate hotel with 60rooms set around stables, a

walled garden and in the manor house. Less than anhour from London, Heckfield Place is set in 400 acresof garden, woodland and rolling countryside with aworking farm that includes rare-breed AberdeenAngus cows. It will feature an underground cinema.www.heckfieldplace.com

Lucknam ParkHotel & Spanear Bath islaunching a newcookery school inautumn. Locatedin a small house on the estate, the school will beheaded up by Lucknam’s 2010 National Chef of theYear, Hrishikesh Desai. Classes will comprise up to 12participants and six cooking stations. Each participantwill receive a folder of menus and a certificate. Theweekday courses will cost from £175 per personincluding breakfast, lunch and refreshments. www.lucknampark.co.uk

Pride of Britain Hotelshas two new, historicmember hotels. Located inthe Surrey countryside andsurrounded by a moat,Elizabethan manor houseLangshott Manor is a

rambling 22-bedroom boutique hotel. One-night stayscost from £99 per room on a room-only basis. TheDial House Hotel (above), in Cotswold villageBourton-on-the Water, has 14 individually-designedbedrooms, a walled garden and an award-winningrestaurant. Rooms cost £155 per night including fullEnglish breakfast.www.prideofbritainhotels.com

DoubleTree by Hiltonnow has its sixth hotel inLondon with therebranding of the formerRamada London Heathrowhotel as the DoubleTree byHilton Heathrow Airport. The 200-room hotel joinstwo existing Hilton properties at the airport.Facilities include wireless high-speed internet inguestrooms and public areas, with free access in thebar and restaurant, and the brand’s signaturewelcome of a warm chocolate chip cookie given toevery guest at check-in. www.doubletree.com

WIN a luxury UK airport hotel stay,with eight days’ parking and airportlounge access worth over £250HolidayExtras.com is offering one lucky tlmreader the chance to get their summer break offto a hassle-free start with this great prize –an overnight stay at a luxury airporthotel, with eight days parking andentrance to a luxury airport lounge fortwo at a UK airport. The prize is worth over£250 and is valid for one year. Just go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click onCompetitions. Terms and conditions apply. Closing date September 22, 2012.

“Top-qualityairport hotelscan besurprisinglyaffordable”

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checking out n hotel reviews

What more could you ask for whenvisiting Dublin than to have oneof its major attractions, the 1,000-

year-old Christ Church Cathedral, literallyacross the road from your hotel?

That is what makes the Jurys InnChristchurch such a great base for a stay in thecity. It is also within easy walking distance ofother key sights including the Guinness Store-house and the lively Temple Bar district’s pubsand bars, and is on sightseeing tour bus routes.

For guests in front-facing rooms, the cathe-dral is perhaps a little too close. With no airconditioning, you have to leave the double-

glazed window open – and the regular peel ofits loud bells could disturb light sleepers.Thankfully I can sleep through anything, andthe girl who checked me in had mentioned thebells and asked whether I would prefer aquieter room at the back without the view,which I declined.

The mid-market hotel’s public areas arevery welcoming and airy, while the excellentbuffet breakfast is just the start you need tofortify you for exploring Dublin. The lobbyand restaurant areas also have free Wi-Fi,something sadly lacking in the rooms, whereyou can only get online with paid-for wired

access – no good for smartphones or iPads.While comfortable, the room looked a bit

tired, as did the corridors. That is beingaddressed from January, when all rooms arescheduled to be refurbished. Public areas arebeing spruced up at the end of this year.

Hopefully the interior will then match itsgrand location. Until then, the jury’s out.

Peter Ellegard

Location, location

With its bright yellow furnitureand lime green shutters, there’sno mistaking who the beachfrontDream Inn hotel in California’sSanta Cruz is aimed at. Guestsstaying here are in town to havefun, fun, fun and the vivid retro-chic decor reflects the bohemianatmosphere of the place wheresurfing first started on theAmerican mainland and is still a

strong part of the culture today.The surfing links with the

hotel are very strong, underlinedby the surfboards mounted onthe bar ceiling. It is the onlyhotel right on the beachfront, ,and you can watch surfers catchwaves out on Monterey Bayfrom your balcony (all roomshave a balcony or patio) or, as Idid, walk down to Cowell’s

Beach and get a surfing lessonright in front of the hotel if youdon’t have your own board.The Dream Inn is also

conveniently near the historicSanta Cruz Beach Boardwalk.At night, the soothing sound

of the lapping waves isaugmented by the distant barkingof sealions at the end of thenearby wharf.A popular place to relax and

soak up the California sun is thehotel’s spacious pool deck, whichhas a children’s wading pool anda pool bar. There is also a spa, tohelp untangle muscles knottedby your surfing exploits. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are

served in the Aquariusrestaurant, where local seafoodand regional wine are specialities.It is located next to the pooldeck, with floor-to ceilingwindows giving panoramic viewsof the beach and bay.Just the place for a board

meeting.Peter Ellegard

factboxJurys Inn Dublin HotelChristchurchChristchurch Place, Dublin, 8Tel: +353 1 454 0000http://dublinhotels.jurysinns.comDouble room from 87 euros, room-only

best forl Great locationl City breaksl Fillingbreakfast

could dobetterl No in-roomWi-Fi

factboxDream InnSanta Cruz, CaliforniaTel: +1 831 426 4330www.dreaminnsantacruz.comThree-night packages fromaround $300, room only

best forl Surfing funl Romantic sunsetsl Funky decor

could do betterl Noisy exteriorcorridors

Surf ’s up

Pict

ures

: Jur

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s

Pict

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: : JD

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n Jurys InnChristchurchexterior

n Lobby bar

n Comfortablebedroom

n Surfboardsat the bar

n The DreamInn pool deck

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checking out n self catering news + review

Sitting in the luxurioussurroundings of the new Stokeby Nayland lodges it’s hard tobelieve that during World War IIthe site was the home of aWomen’s Land Army hostel.Nestled in 300 acres of beautiful,rolling Constable Country onthe Suffolk-Essex border, thelodges provide an idyllic escapewhich can be shared with familyand friends.They make an ideal base for

exploring this idyllic area,offering opportunities for walksor sightseeing, or just relaxing.The inspiration for the elegant,

simple interior design is alsotaken from the 1940s and it is ofthe highest standard, combiningclassic simplicity with state-of-the-art technology and

appliances, including surround-sound systems, 42” TVs, Blu-rayplayers, free DVDs, iPod docking

stations and free Wi-Fi.The unique design

incorporates the hostel’srenovated original tower, whichprovides a communal space.Located close to the Stoke-by-

Nayland Hotel, the lodges offerguests the freedom of self-catering with the flexibility ofpersonal chef and waiter service,or the opportunity to be spoiltand experience fine dining in thehotel’s AA rosette-ratedrestaurant. Guests have 24/7access to a lodge porter and ashuttle service to the hotel.

A championship golf course ison site and guests have free useof the hotel’s swimming pool,Technogym gymansium andindoor spa, which offers manytreatments.Lodges can be rented either as

one large unit, accommodatingup to 10, or as two separateunits each including kitchen,lounges and double bedrooms.With such stunning surrounding

scenery, it’s not hard to see whyConstable took such inspirationfrom the local landscape.

Peter Lewsey

Mod con lodgingfactboxStoke by NaylandCountry LodgesLeavenheath, Colchester,Essex CO64PZTel: 01206 262836www.stokebynaylandlodges.comLodges from £295for a two-nightbreak

best forl Romantic breakor family gathering

l Golfing or spa breakl Stunning views

could do betterl Some tea towels please

Stoke by NaylandCountry Lodges, Essex

n Lodge exterior. Below: spacious loungeSt

oke

by N

ayla

nd C

ount

ry L

odge

s

Stuck for somewhere to take the childrenon holiday this summer? If you haven’tyet found that elusive last-minute pack-

age holiday, a family self-catering staycationin Norfolk could be the perfect answer.

Kett Country Cottages has a portfolio ofnearly 190 cottages and holiday homes acrossNorth Norfolk, and there is still availability atseveral. With prices far cheaper than overseasholidays, money saved could be put intofamily treats and days out.

Larger families will feel at home in HomeFarm House; a detached period property closeto the Norfolk Broads and a 10-minute drivefrom beaches, it sleeps up to 10 and costs fromonly £950 per week – £95 per person.

Alternatively, Mill House sleeps eight andis set in 1.5 acres of secluded garden, and oncethe little ones are tucked up for the night, mumand dad can grab a little togetherness time inthe large outdoor hot tub. Prices are from £785per week.

For details on those and other properties, goto www.kettcountrycottages.co.uk.

Family getawaysself-catering news

SELF-CATERING CLIPSA minimalistNorth Norfolkholiday homedesigned byOlympicVelodromedesignersHopkins Architectshas August lateavailability. The Long House, near Wells,sleeps 10 and has five bedrooms, a circularstaircase, large communal living spaces andMorning and Evening Yards as well asupstairs views over saltmarshes and thesea. Short summer breaks start at £1,590.www.living-architecture.co.uk

A new website offers the UK’s first one-stop-shop for last-minute self-cateringholidays. Booking specialist Latelettings.comallows guests to search, book and pay forbreaks instantly, and covers cottages,apartments, yurts and otheraccommodation. The price displayed isguaranteed, with no booking fees or creditcharges added. www.latelettings.com

Kett

Coun

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Livin

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n HomeFarmHouse

n MillHouselounge

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tlm � the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 2012100

� SEASONAL BREAKS

Overlooking Porth beach and the stunning North Cornish coastline, GlendorgalHotel and Self Catering is set in a secluded coastal position within 17 acres ofprivate headland, yet only a short stroll from Newquay town centre.

♦ Choice of hotel rooms or 2 & 3 bedroom self catering houses ♦ 2 night staysavailable in self catering ♦ Watermark Brasserie and Bar ♦ Health Club with fitnessarena ♦ Swimming Pool ♦ Hot tub ♦ Sauna ♦ Steam Room ♦ Free Parking

Lusty Glaze Road, Porth, Newquay, Cornwall, TR7 3ADCall now on 01637 874937E-mail: info@glendorgal.co.ukwww.glendorgalhotel.co.ukwww.glendorgalselfcatering.co.uk

Hotel and Self Catering Newquay

The Hotel Collingwood is one of Bournemouth's finest hotels, ideally situated weare only a short walk to the beach, Bournemouth International Centre andcosmopolitan town centre.A family run establishmentensures you of anexceptionally high standardof service at all times. Thehotel has 53 modern en-suite bedrooms, whichhave their own distinctivestyle and are all furnishedand equipped withindividual heating controls,direct dial telephone, digitalfreeview TV, tea & coffeefacilities. Lift access to all floors, as well as ample free parking for 70 cars.We provide an exceptional and exciting array of entertainment most eveningsthroughout the year, Each live cabaret is unique, whether you want to dance thenight away or just listen, all tastes of music are catered for.

Hotel Collingwood11 Priory Road, Bournemouth BH2 5DF

Tel: 01202 557575 Email: [email protected]

5%discountoffered whenquoting this

advertisement

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SEASONAL BREAKS �

Penventon Park Hotel Redruth, Cornwall, TR15 1TE T: 01209 203000 E: [email protected]

Visit us at: www.penventon.co.uk

Explore CornwallCentral for Lands End, Eden and St Ives

Summer Break 3 nights for £350 for 2 peopleIndulgence Break 1 night for £169 for 2 people

Accomodation and lots of special extras at an extra special rate.

Lansdowne Place Hotel & Spa

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• Luxury 4� hotel just steps away from Hoveseafront

• Stunning bedrooms• Function rooms up to 250 delegates

• Cocktail bar and Restaurant• ESPA

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“We make your stay the best experience”

� � � �BRIGHTON & HOVE

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As the first city tohave held theOlympic Games

three times – previouslyin 1908 and 1948 –London has been centrestage once more as hostof the Games of the XXXOlympiad. While the citycontinues to celebrate itssummer to remember, wegive you an insight of lifeafter the Games and thelegacy the Olympics willleave for the capital.

olympic park One of the main focusesof the London 2012Games, with up to180,000 spectators a daytaking in the multitude ofevents, the Olympic Parkwill be transformed froman Olympic site into a

new piece of the city, inthe heart of London’s EastEnd.

By spring 2014, the

560-acre Queen ElizabethOlympic Park in Stratfordwill be like no other in theUK. As well as its iconic

venues, the park will havetwo distinct areas – thelandscaped river valley inthe north and a 50-acre

urban landscape in thesouth.

The North Park willopen first, in 2013, and

no tickets? no problem!If you missed out on Olympics tickets, there areseveral events in the latter stages and in theParalympics that you can enjoy for free:l August 4, 11: Race Walk – taking place on the streets

of central London, finishing at The Mall, this is aseries of speed-walk events including a men’s andwomen’s 20-kilometre race and a men’s 50k race.

l August 4, 7: Triathlon – watch athletes compete in ademanding triathlon schedule, which includesswimming, cycling and running, in London’s HydePark. The competition is made up of a 1,500mswim, 40k cycle ride and a 10k run.

l August 5, 12: Marathon – the Olympic Marathonwill pass landmarks such as the Tower of London, StPaul’s Cathedral, Houses of Parliament, BuckinghamPalace and Trafalgar Square. Unlike the London

Marathon, with 35,000runners, theOlympic Marathononly has around80 competitors.

l August 9-10:Swimmingmarathon – theworld’s bestmarathon swimmerswill take to the Serpentine inHyde Park to compete in the Olympic 10kMarathon Swim, completing six laps of the lake. Thesouth side of the lake will be open to spectatorswithout tickets.

l September 9: Paralympic marathons – watch themen’s and women’s marathons. Large parts of thecourse are free to watch, with access to The Mallby ticket only.

With the Olympic Games and Paralympics following hard on the heels of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee,the whole world is watching London this summer. Julie Thompson looks at the venues, how you canstill join in the action and how the Games will benefit the city long after the athletes have returned home

London calling

london life n olympic london

London 2012

Dav

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n Marathon Swimming,Hyde Park.

n Five-ringcircus: the

Olympics arefinally here

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will include a nature-themed community huband playground and a7,500-capacity indoorentertainment venue witha yearly programme ofhigh-profile sporting andmusic events.

The South Plaza willsit between the Stadium,Aquatics Centre and theArcelorMittal Orbit. Thetree-lined promenade willconnect spaces to be usedfor events and attractionsincluding culturalprogrammes, pop-upstreet food stalls andcommunity events.

As well as the green,open spaces and tranquilwaterways, the park willbe a place to live andwork, with five newneighbourhoods and itsown commercial district.

With Europe’s largesturban shopping centre righton its doorstep and thou-sands of hotel rooms just ashort walk away, amongthem the newly-openedHoliday Inn and StaybridgeSuites, Queen ElizabethOlympic Park is set tobecome a leading leisureand business destination.

park venuesThe Stadium: Thecentrepiece of the London2012 Games, the Stadiumwill retain athletics at itscore after the Games andwill host a range of sport-ing, entertainment andcultural events. It will alsobe the host venue for the2017 World AthleticsChampionships.VeloPark: The VeloParkwill be owned andmanaged by Lee Valley

Regional Park Authorityafter the Games and willbe known as the LeeValley VeloPark. The6,000-seat velodrome willbe used by high-perfor-mance athletes who willtrain alongside the localand regional community.Aquatics Centre: Situ-ated on the main gatewayinto the Park, the AquaticsCentre, with two 50-metrepools, will provide animportant legacy forLondon, which only hastwo of this size currently.Following its transforma-tion after the Games, thecentre will cater for alllevels of swimming abil-

ity and aquaticdisciplines, offering arange of programmes. Thecentre will be open to thelocal community andschools.

the arcelormittalorbitThe ArcelorMittal Orbit,Britain’s largest piece ofpublic art at just over 377feet high, commissionedto provide a lasting legacyof the 2012 Games, wasdesigned by Turner Prizewinner Anish Kapoor andone of the world’s leadingstructural designers, CecilBalmond. While theGames are on, visitorswith tickets for the Orbitcan take the glass lift tothe top in just 30 secondsfor stunning views overthe Olympic Stadium,Olympic Park and thewhole of London.

When it reopens in2014, the ArcelorMittalOrbit will operate as avisitor attraction with tick-eted viewing from theobservation decks. It willbe able to accommodatearound 5,000 visitors aday, with an estimated onemillion people visiting theattraction in the first year.Visitors will be able totake the lift to the top, andthen descend via the 455steps of the spiral staircaseto view the 2,000 tonnesof steel used to make thisincredible structure.

With its featured light-ing made up of 250coloured spotlights, theOrbit is set to become abeacon of East Londonboth day and night in theyears to come.

Summer 2012 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 103

london life n olympic london

did you know?l London 2012 is the first Summer Games tocalculate its complete carbon footprint. It alsoaims to set a world record for the largest numberof people neutralising their travel carbon to asingle event.

l The Olympic Park is the first and largest newparkland in Europe for more than 150 years.Wetlands and river habitats have been restoredfrom contaminated land.

l The first marathon run over 26 miles and 385yards was at the 1908 London Olympics; it waslengthened so that the Royal Family could see thestart and end (it started at Windsor Castle andfinished in front of the Royal Box at the stadium).

l The first time athletes paraded under theirnational flags at the start of the Olympics was atthe 1908 Games in London.

suits youFor families: Enjoya family picnic atone of the Live Siteslocated in the heartof London andbeyond, taking placethroughout the Games.Entry is free and some havelarge screens to view events:www.london2012.com/join-in/live-sites. For couples: Enjoy a Showtime event together; fromdance to theatre or bandstand performances, there issomething for all tastes as part of London’s “summerlike no other”. For details, go to:www.visitlondon.com/events.For value: On September 10, Team GB andParalympics GB athletes parade through the capital’scentre to celebrate competing in London 2012. Taketo the streets for a great free day out and to enjoythe end of the Games.For luxury: If you have Olympic tickets, why nottake an exclusive, private water taxi to your event?With an onboard steward/stewardess offering drinksand canapés, and entertainment on board, it’s the VIPway to travel. Details online at:www.watertaxitotheolympicpark.co.uk.

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n Beach Volleyball test eventahead of London 2012

n The ArcelorMittal Orbit

n Park Live CGI

n Mark Cavendish won the London2012 road race test event

n The Olympic Stadium

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london n news

Up on the roofThe O2 in Greenwich is

one of London’s mosticonic landmarks and

is now home to one of thecapital’s newest and mostexciting attractions, Up atthe O2.

This 90-minute exhilarat-ing outdoor challenge allowsvisitors to walk across theroof of the domed structurevia a stretchable fabric walk-way suspended 170 feet above

ground level, between theO2’s distinctive yellow masts.

The observation platformat the summit offers spectac-ular 360-degree views of thecapital and its many land-marks including the OlympicPark, Thames Barrier, theShard and Canary Wharf.

Suitable for all ages from10 onwards (and at least fourfeet – 1.2 metres – tall), thejourney begins at Base

Camp, where visitors arekitted out in specially-madeclimbsuits, shoes and safetyharnesses and are taken bytrained guides to the base ofthe tent to start their climb.

Climbs take place every30 minutes and you willneed at least 90 minutes tocomplete your climb. Formore details on openingtimes and ticket prices, go towww.UpatTheO2.co.uk.

Experience Britain’s first vertical townand Western Europe’s tallest buildingwhen The View from The Shard view-

ing platform opens on February 1, 2013. At 1,016 feet (310m), The Shard features

two high-speed kaleidoscopic lifts that takejust 30 seconds to reach Level 68, offering acloudscape above London. From here, visitorswill make their way to Level 69 for 360-degreeviews across 40 miles of the city, with multi-media displays bringing the past, present andfuture of London to life.

The very best view in town is from Level72, at 800ft (244m), the highest public level ofThe Shard and almost twice the height of anyother London viewpoint. Here, exposed to theelements and the sights and sounds of the citybelow, you can see the shards of glass thatform the top of this amazing new tower.

The View from The Shard will be openfrom 9am to 10pm daily; for more informationand to book tickets, go towww.theviewfromtheshard.com.

104 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 2012

Curtain call fornew theatre London’s first newly-built theatre complexin 30 years will open in the heart ofVictoria in September. St James Theatre, developed on the site

of the former Westminster Theatre, willinclude a 312-seat theatre, a 100-seatstudio theatre for one-night and short runcomedy and live music events, brasserie andbar, and will be one of the most luxurioustheatre venues in the city. The first performance of Sandy Toksvig’s

Bully Boy starring Anthony Andrews andJoshua Miles will be on September 18; theshow runs until the end of October. Formore details of upcoming performancesand ticket prices, go towww.stjamestheatre.co.uk.

Putting on the RitzQuintessentiallyBritish institutionsThe Ritz andThomas Pink havelaunched thedefinitive Londonshoppingexperience. The Tickled

Pink programme,priced from £640

per night, includes overnightaccommodation in a Louis XVI-inspiredguestroom with fruit, flowers and a bottleof Champagne in-room on arrival, a two-hour shopping excursion in Thomas Pink’sclassic Morgan, starting with a glass ofChampagne at their flagship boutique, asignature treatment in the Ritz Salon oryour room, Champagne Afternoon Tea inthe Palm Court and full English breakfastthe next morning.For details or to make a reservation, call

020 7493 8181, [email protected] orvisit www.theritzlondon.com.

View to a thrill

The

O2

Sella

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n Hit the roof onthe new O2 climb

n Centre stage: thenew St James Theatre

n The Shard willoffer amazing views

n In the pink: Ritzy stay

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Einstein aGo Go

Treemendous fun

English Heritage has more than 400historic sites nationwide, with 11million visitors a year, many of

whom are families. The events club for children, Time

Travellers Go, is designed to help themexplore and enjoy history in a brand newway. Time Travellers Go events runthroughout the year, and this summer seessome of England’s most auspicious siteshosting further fun events.

From August 6-10, Kenilworth Castleand Elizabethan Garden in Warwickshirehas the Time Travellers Go...Gruesome

event while Down House in Downe, Kent,home of Charles Darwin, has the TimeTravellers Go...Discoveries and Inventionsexperience for all budding Einsteins.

Time Travellers Go...Through theAges takes place at Framlingham Castlein Suffolk, while, from August 12-15, youcan break out the best Medieval attire forTime Travellers Go...Knights andPrincesses at Carisbrooke Castle on theIsle of Wight.

For details of all Time Travellers Goevents this summer, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk.

Athree-day Treefest will take placeat the National Arboretum atWestonbirt in the Cotswolds over

the August Bank Holiday weekend. As well as demonstrations of wood-

craft and traditional skills, familyactivities, guided walks and woodland-inspired arts and crafts for sale, visitorswill be able to watch carvers create threelarge wooden sculptures that will formpart of a new play trail.

One is inspired by the Vincent van Goghquote “if you love nature, you will findbeauty everywhere”, another is an ornatechair based on the children’s game “what’s

the time, Mr Wolf?”, while the third oneexplores the knock-on-wood superstition.

Treefest 2012 is on from August 25-27; for ticket details go towww.forestry.gov.uk/westonbirt-treefest.

Jurassic peekThe new £3.5 millionWeymouth SEA LIFETower is 174 feet (53m)high and offers amazing360-degree panoramicviews of Weymouth Bay,Portland and theJurassic Coast. Theobservation deck slowlyrevolves as it rises fromground level to fullheight and its floor-to-ceiling windows provideviews, on a clear day,right down the coast toLulworth Cove and the

iconic Durdle Door arch. The 2012 Olympic sailing events are taking place in

Weymouth and Portland Bays and any flights taken onrace days will provide a perfect vantage spot forthese events.

The tower is open seven days a week from 10am,with last entry at 7.15pm. Tickets for either thetower only or dual tickets combining the tower andSEA LIFE Adventure Park are available online fromwww.weymouth-tower.com.

Head off to HeverHever Castle,childhood home ofAnne Boleyn, hasanother packedsummer of events forall the family, includingthe Knights of RoyalEngland jousting touron the weekends ofAugust 10-12, 17-19and 24-25.

You can experiencea taste of theMediterranean onSeptember 1-2, whenthe castle’s ItalianGarden provides the perfect backdrop for theMediterranean Weekend. As well as the Italianstatuary, topiary and colourful planting, exotic plantssuch as fiery chillies, olives and zesty citrus fruitsabound.

September 14-16 sees craftspeople demonstratingcountry crafts ranging from wood carving and turningto guitar making and basket weaving in the CountryLife at the Castle weekend.

For more details of Hever’s events, go towww.hevercastle.co.uk.

out & about n what’s on and where

Engl

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n Travel backthrough time

n Towertakes off

n Knight rider

n Watchwoodcarvers

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The BristolInternationalBalloon Fiesta was

founded in 1978 and thisyear’s event takes place onAugust 9-12 in the rollinghills of Ashton Court on

the edge of the city. This free, world-class

hot air ballooning festival,which attracts half a millionpeople, has more than 100balloons of all shapes andsizes taking to the sky each

morning and evening aswell as the fiesta’s famousnight glows, fireworkdisplays and family enter-tainment. For moreinformation, go to www.bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk.

Summer 2012 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 107

out & about n what’s on and where

While Britain may not be seen as top of theculinary chart, we not only love our food buthave some of the best local produce in theworld. Celebrate some of Britain’s finestfoods and wines during a series of foodfestivals this summer. Here is our round-upof some of the best:

Feast for foodiesFoodies Festivals takeplace across theUK throughoutthe year andupcomingeventsincludeBatterseaPark inLondon fromAugust 17-19 andOxford from August 25-27. Top Michelin-star and TV chefs will beoffering cooking demonstrations alongsidetasting and sampling sessions, restauranttents, produce markets and a cooking forkids theatre. www.foodiesfestival.com

Meat and drink

The historic town of Ludlow has held anannual food festival since 1995 and this year’sevent on September 7-9 will once againshowcase excellent local suppliers andproduce, from rare breeds of meat to real

ale, in and around the stunning location ofLudlow Castle. www.foodfestival.co.uk

Brighton cheesy

The Brighton & Hove Food and DrinkFestival is the largest of its kind, running for10 days, twice a year, with the second eventof 2012 taking place from September 7-16.The festival includes the Big Sussex Market,the largest free food event in the south ofEngland, plus supper clubs and twointernational Chef Exchange Dinners. Thefestival finale weekend features the free-entry Sussex and the World Market on HoveLawns, with entertainment, a Live Food Showand the quirky Sussex Cheese BowlingChampionship.www.brightonfoodfestival.com

Seafood – and eat itThe seventh annual Hastings Seafood and WineFestival takes place onSeptember 15-16,when morethan 40,000food loversare expectedto helpcelebrateHastings’sustainablefishery, its vineyardsand its excellent local food producers.

Events include a jazz breakfast on the Sundaymorning as well as walks and talks on the1,000-year history of the Hastings’s fishingfleet, with local fisherman doing net-makingdemonstrations.www.visit1066country.com

Baker’s dozenOne of the UK’s biggest events in the foodcalendar celebrates its13th year onSeptember 15-16; theAbergavennyFood Festivalchampionsthe craft infood-making, aswell as thediversity of food andtraditions throughout Wales and beyond. A stroller ticket gives access to over 200stalls across five market venues throughoutthe town as well as the rolling programme ofchef demonstrations, live music andentertainment.www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com

More cheese, pleaseCardiff Castle provides the backdrop for theGreat British Cheese Festival with Britain’slargest cheese market plus an array of artisanwines and ciders. Taking place on September22-23, the festival also has a best of Britishmarket, a taste of Wales market and liveentertainment.www.greatbritishcheesefestival.co.uk

Up, up and away

Food, glorious food

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n Cookery demo

n Cheese tasting

n Taking tothe skies

n Pan-tasticBrighton

n Hot stuff

n Local produceon view

n Hug afoodie

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� GREAT DAYS OUT

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GREAT DAYS OUT �

Visit the City Mill and ShopA working mill in the city ofWinchester -Flour milling demonstrations every weekendCall 01962 870057www.nationaltrust.org.uk/winchestercitymill

Free tea or coffee for each party member with this advert!

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110 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 2012

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CLASSIFIED �

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� CLASSIFIED

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To advertise in tlm – the travel & leisure magazineplease call 0203 176 2570

112TLMsummer 20/7/12 16:16 Page 1

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To advertise in tlmthe travel & leisure magazine

please call 0203 176 2570

To advertise in tlmthe travel & leisure magazine

please call 0203 176 2570

113TLMsummer 20/7/12 16:17 Page 1

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Eating Out Travel Insurance

FreeTickets

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OFFER OF THE MONTH:4 day Rwanda Tour including

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www.hilton.com/towerbridgeLondon Tower Bridge

To advertise in tlmthe travel & leisure magazine

please call 0203 176 2570

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