Download pdf - tlm-the travel & leisure magazine spring 2011

tlm!

the travel & leisure magazine

Spring 2011

TURKEY SIZZLERSWheres hot to trot around the Turkish coast

ROCK STEADYBritains seaside resorts fight back

THRILLERSThe magic of theme parks

wina golf and spa break,a Kodak camera inour spring photocontest & morewww.tlm-magazine.co.uk

ORIENTAL PEARLChina's hidden

delights

PLUSConstable Country

Golf in Dom RepLuxury spas

Royal London

tlmthe travel & leisure magazine

Spring 2011 3.50

LOVE IS IN THE AIR10 of the best romantic escapes

4 in the frame winter photo competition winners6 getting to know Turkeys Mediterranean coast15 escape to Tallinn 21 lets try theme parks27 competitions

WIN a 1,000 family theme park break to Germanys Europa-Park WIN a 335 golf and spa break to Heythrop Park Resort + READER OFFER

28 uk uncovered Britains beach resorts36 off the beaten track hidden China and Tibet42 a touch of class UK spas47 in your flightbag what to take on the flight

WIN one of five pairs of Rollasoles shoes, worth up to 9.95 eachREADER OFFER get 20% off Rollasoles shoes onlineWIN one of three Fulton Minilite-2 Photo Rose Pink umbrellas, worth 14 each

48 in your suitcase what to pack for your holiday WIN one of four pairs of Brasher shoes and boots, worth up to 110 each

50 travel tech gizmos and gadgets to take away53 on your doorstep Constable Country: Dedham Vale59 photo competition

WIN a Kodak EasyShare Max digital camera and a Pulse digital photo frame, worth 47061 pack your clubs Dominican Republic + golf news

WIN a Z1 Push golf trolley, worth 179 67 travel update travel news70 10 of the best romantic escapes74 checking out focus on pubs with rooms + reviews78 london life royal London + London news82 out & about whats on outside London

READER OFFER buy one SpaFinders voucher and get 25% off a second one90 coming next whats in store in the next issue

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EDITORIAL TEAM: Editor Peter Ellegard Editorial assistant Julie Thompson Writers Peter Ellegard, Julie Thompson, Howard Carr, JeannineWilliamson, John Law, Jane Anderson and Clare Mann Design Nick Blaxill Production June Barnard PublisherTerry Stafford

Digital Publisher Peter Lewsey Published quarterly by TLM Media Limited Castle Court, 41 London Road, Reigate, Surrey RH2 9RJTel: 01737 735575 Fax: 01737 735233 Email: [email protected] Printed by BGP TLM Media Limited

The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Whilst every care is taken, all material submitted to TLM Media Limited is done so atits owners risk and neither TLM Media Limited nor its agents can accept any liability for loss or damage. TLM Media Limited is a completely independent

company and can hold no responsibility for the actions of outside agents. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written consent. Allprivate advertisers are totally responsible for their own wording within their advertisement, and TLM Media Limited can therefore take no responsibility as

to their content. Please seek legal advice and thereafter verify all the details of your purchase in writing before proceeding.Front cover photo: Lizard Island, on Australias Great Barrier Reef Lizard Island

The year is barely threemonths old, yet alreadywe have witnessed globaldisasters and tragedies on anunimaginable scale and othermomentous events. Australia,New Zealand, Japan our TVscreens have been filled withscenes of devastation almostimpossible to comprehend,while people across NorthAfrica and the Middle East havestood up against oppressiveregimes.

Such is the human spirit, theaffected areas are attempting torebuild their shatteredcommunities, through their ownresolve and with national andinternational help. And while itmay seem frivolous to bethinking about holidays at such atime, we can help to make adifference as holidaymakers, too.

Tourism dollars are thelifeblood of many destinations,and when visitors stop goingthose dollars dry up. Very oftenpeople cancel or switch holidaysin the belief that their chosendestination is affected, when inreality it can be well away fromtrouble hotspots. So beforereconsidering travel plans, do in-depth research and then makean informed decision.

On a lighter note, we hopeyou find the latest issue of tlminteresting, thought-provokingand an enjoyable read. Inside,theres a wide cross-section oftopics, and the chance to winmany fantastic prizes.

And if you are unsure of yourtravel plans, you can always visittlms website and ask the editor.

Spring 2011 tlm ! the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 3

from theeditor

the travel and leisure magazine

Peter Ellegard! Ethnic minority girls,Yangshuo, China

Pete

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4 tlm ! the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Spring 2011

in the frame ! winter photo competition results

IceonesJames and Bex take the winterhonours with their cool photos

Other topreaderspicks

We asked you to send in your favourite ice,snow and frost photos for our winterphotographic competition and we wereliterally snowed under with entries!

The competition was run in two parts over Januaryand February, with winners for both receiving a copyof the Insight Guide to Travel Photography, worth14.99, courtesy of Insight Guides.

The hundreds of entrieswere narrowed down to 12finalists each month, whichwere then posted on tlmsFacebook page for thepublic to vote. ForFebruarys vote, we rolledall the unsuccessfulJanuary entries togetherwith those that came infor the Februarycompetition.

And the results wereoverwhelming. Januarys winning picture was of asnowy promenade scene on Southsea seafront, inPortsmouth, taken by James Murphy, a student atPortsmouth University who is a keen amateurphotographer. Februarys vote went to Bex Saunders,another student, from Romsey in Hampshire, for heratmospheric close-up of icicles. Well done both ofthem."WIN a Kodak camera in our summer photocompetition. See page 59.

! James Murphys photo of asnowy Southsea promenade

! Bex Saunders photo of icicles

! Winter in Swaledale byCaroline Brookes-Leyland

! Form an OrderlyQueue by Alan Roberts

! Madelineand Barleyby JodieForbes

Hasan was tinkering with the engine of hislittle boat before taking us for a triparound the bay. He assured us that he onlydid this for friends. We didnt like to tellhim that it seemed everyone was a friendin Gumusluk.

In the space of just a couple of days in this idyllicvillage on the tip of the Bodrum peninsula, the staff ofone of the restaurants had taken us swimming and thelocal baker had shared yoghurt and freshly-pickedalmonds with us. Now the owner of the village antiquesshop was about to take us for a late-afternoon jaunt onhis boat.

Turkey is famous for its hospitality. It doesnt comeany warmer than in Gumusluk, which has largelyavoided the tourism trappings of Bodrum just 40minutes away.

We had intended to spend only a few days in thisvillage, where the road ends literally. The settlementsposition on the site of ancient Myndos means that devel-opment is severely restricted. Accommodation is limitedto village houses, a few apartments and a couple ofpensions.

Many of the houses and most of Gumusluks handfulof shops and restaurants are accessed directly from thebeach, which acts as the villages main thoroughfare.And with very little passing traffic save for a fewBodrum visitors to Gumusluks renowned fish restau-rants each day the beach is more country lane thanhigh street.

Our few days in Gumusluk turned into two weeks.Apart from a trip to the market in Bodrum, we rarelyventured out of the village such is its halcyon-like grip.With the garden gate of our stone cottage opening


Turkey has soared in popularity as a holiday destination, thanks to its excellent value and therange of resorts it offers all round its coast. Howard Carr gives a guided tour

getting to know ! Turkeys Mediterranean resorts

Med to make your mouth water! The stunning beachand lagoon at Oludeniz

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directly onto the beach, days began with an early-morn-ing swim. Then it was a few strides along the beach tobuy fresh bread, yoghurt and apricots for breakfast.

The rest of the day was distinctly lazy and hazy, withthe odd break for kayaking in the bay or walking overthe headland to explore meadows, cliff-top paths andremote coves. It was a rare walk when we didnt stumbleacross tiny patches of ancient mosaics in the fieldsaround the village.

We could have headed for bigger and busier resortsalong the coast. We could have swapped weed-coveredmosaics for more impressive historic sites such asEphesus. Turkeys popularity has boomed in the lastcouple of years as holidaymakers look for good valueoutside the eurozone.

But Gumusluk is proof that Turkey is big enough tocater for all types of traveller on and off the beatentrack. The country covers an area three times the size ofthe UK and has more than 2,700 miles of Aegean andMediterranean coastline.

Beach resorts are served by the four main gatewayairports at Izmir, Bodrum, Dalaman and Antalya.



! Antalya yacht harbour

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izmir areaIzmir is the most northerly of the coastal gateways. Theareas biggest and best-known resort is Kusadasi, wheremass-market tourism in Turkey began in earnest.

Today its a cosmopolitan resort, with lots of shopsand a bright and busy nightlife. The main town beachcan get crowded in summer but theres a good choice ofother beaches a short distance out of the centre that arejust as sandy but offer more space.

The resort has a large range of hotels to suit all budg-ets but accommodation should be chosen carefully.While Kusadasi has done much to spruce itself up overthe last few years, some hotels remain a little jaded.

Kusadasis main advantage is its proximity toEphesus, Turkeys most famous and best-preservedancient city. The historic site is just 30 minutes from theresort.

The short transfer to Ephesus also makes Kusadasi afavourite call with cruise ships.

The areas other main resorts are Cesme, a charmingtown dominated by a 14th century castle, and Altinkum,where the large sweep of golden sand makes it popularwith families. Quieter options include Foca and Ayvalik.

At first sight, the sprawling city of Izmir appears tohave little to offer tourists mainly because of its lack ofa decent beach. But its hectic bazaar is a fun place tohaggle for Turkish souvenirs and there are some goodrestaurants along its seafront.

bodrum areaBodrum boasts a beautiful marina overlooked by aCrusader castle and backed by a warren of narrowstreets. It gets crowded in the height of summer mainly due to its clever approach to satisfying a widevariety of visitors.

A popular base for sailing holidays, the busy harbourgives the waterfront a jet-set atmosphere. Clubbers areattracted by one of the largest open-air nightclubs on theMediterranean, while families come for shopping, thecastle and the waterside cafes.

Bodrum has a fair selection of chic, boutique-stylehotels, while on the edge of town, Gumbet is a kiss-me-quick-type resort with budget accommodation and brashbars and clubs that are a big hit with the 18-30 crowd.

The 26-mile long Bodrum peninsula offers a quieteralternative among its lush countryside dotted with olivegroves and whitewashed villages. Resorts such asTurgutreis and Ortakent have developed considerablyover the last few years but still retain an authentic Turk-ish atmosphere. They offer a good balance forholidaymakers keen to avoid the big resorts but who stillwant a reasonable selection of restaurants and bars anddont wish to be too off the beaten track.

Bitez has a mature, upmarket following, while



gulet cruisingTraditional wooden sailing boats known asgulets are a great way of exploring tinyfishing villages and secluded coves. Most ofthe coast remains undeveloped, with manybays and beaches only accessible by water.

Trips can range from a day to a week ormore. Each vessel has its own crew, includinga cook, and usually up to eight cabins.Facilities vary from basic to luxury but mostboats have a sunbathing deck to the foreand a sitting and dining area at the back.

Potential passengers should bear in mindthat unless they are hiring the whole boat,they will be holidaying with strangers in afairly confined space. Cabins are often tiny,with little room for luggage.

Major bases for gulet cruises includeMarmaris, Bodrum, Kusadasi and Fethiye.Boats sail during the day, with plenty of timefor swimming and snorkelling, and moor ata different town or village each night.

Thecountry hasmore than2,700 miles ofAegean andMediterraneancoastline

! Explore the coast on a gulet

! Bodrun Castle

! Gumbet beach

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Gumusluk and Yalikavak are among the quietest placeson the peninsula.

dalaman areaDalaman is the gateway to many of Turkeys most popu-lar resorts. They include the Brits favourite, Marmaris.Bustling, neon-lit and with a busy harbour, this is defi-nitely not a resort for those in search of a quiet holiday.

Nearby Icmeler is popular with families because ofits sandy beach and shallow waters. It has a wide rangeof hotels and apartments but has more of a relaxing, laid-

back atmosphere than Marmaris.Small, family-run hotels make up most of the

accommodation in Turunc, reached by a steep,winding road.

The beautiful Datca peninsula remains relativelyundiscovered despite its proximity to Marmaris.

Few tourists venture off the main coast road toexplore the pretty countryside and traditional villages.Further south, Oludeniz near the attractive town of

Fethiye boasts one of the countrys best beaches

cradled by a stunning lagoon. Most of the area immedi-ately bordering the lagoon is protected, meaning thatmost accommodation is set back from the beach.

Because development at Oludeniz is heavilyrestricted, nearby Hisaronu has grown into a lively resort.A more relaxed option for families and older couples is

Beautifully restored stone houses, full ofcharacter and history, make a refreshingalternative to modern hotels forholidaymakers who want to immersethemselves in village life.

The rural Kaya Valley in the hills aboveFethiye offers lots of options. Strictconservation rules mean there are nolarge hotels. Accommodation is limitedto renovated houses in tiny villages.

The biggest nod to tourism is thedeserted village of Kayakoy, whichattracts day-trippers from the coast.The settlement was abandoned afterthe Greco-Turkish war in the 1920s.

The valley offers many scenic walks.

Among the most scenic is a hikethrough pine forest to Afkule, anancient monastery carved into a cliffoverlooking the sea.

Should the bright lights beckon,Fethiye is just five miles from the KayaValley and Oludeniz, seven miles.

Other areas with a good selection ofvillage houses for rent include theBodrum and Datca peninsulas.

Most houses are well-equipped, withfacilities often including washingmachines, dishwashers and air-conditioning. Maid service is usuallyprovided at least every few days to tidyup and change linen.



magical history toursTurkey claims to have more Greek ruins thanGreece and more ancient Roman sites than Italy.There are so many historic attractions thatwherever you choose to stay, you are bound tostumble across mosaics, tombs, statues or the oddamphitheatre or two.But the size of the country means its unlikely youwill be able to pack all the main ancient sites intoone holiday. If youre keen to combine a beach staywith a visit to a particular attraction, choose yourresort carefully to ensure its within easy reach.Top sites are:Ephesus: The best-preserved classical city in thewhole of the Mediterranean covers a large area, soditch the flip-flops in favour of comfortable shoes.Troy: Not even Brad Pitt could make the ancient siteof Troy as popular as Ephesus with holidaymakers butthat is largely due to the legendary citys position onthe northern Aegean coast a lengthy drive from anyresort south of Izmir.Hierapolis: The ruins of the ancient spa town sitalongside Pamukkale, a spectacular series of whiteterraces that are a popular attraction for day-trippers from Kusadasi, Altinkum and Bodrum. Didyma: One of the ancient worlds most sacredplaces, near Altinkum, was built in the 7th centuryBC and restored by Alexander the Great.Aspendos: Thirty miles east of Antalya, thisimpressive Roman site boasts a beautifully-preserved amphitheatre and aqueduct.Perge: One of Turkeys best-preservedarchaeological sites, 10 miles from Antalya, this wasa major city of ancient Pamphylia. It was used byAlexander as a base but most ruins date from laterRoman times and include a theatre.

village stays

! Village life in Alacati, near Izmir

! Didyma, near Altinkum

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Calis Beach, the nearest stretch of sand to Fethiye.Further west, Patara has the longest beach in Turkey

14 miles of white sand backed by dunes and mimosabushes. The harbour towns of Kas and Kalkan havegrown into upmarket resorts with swanky boutiquehotels and luxury villas.

antalya areaOodles of winter sun make Antalya Turkeys only majoryear-round beach holiday destination.The Turkish government has invested heavily in theregions tourism infrastructure over the last few years. Afocus on four and five-star hotels is designed to rid the



! Ephesus is the Mediterraneansbest-preserved classical city

! Perge ruins ! Temple of Apollo at Side, near Antalya

! Antalyas harbour

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country of its reputation as a bargain-basement destina-tion and show that its a match for more establishedrivals around the Mediterranean.

Some of the new hotels are jaw-droppingly ostenta-tious. They include the vast Mardan Palace, reputed to bethe most expensive hotel in Europe when it opened inAntalya two years ago.

Much development has been focused on the purpose-built resort of Belek. With luxury spas and more than 12golf courses, its out to prove that Turkish beach holidayscan offer more than just sunbathing. Other resorts with aspate of new upmarket hotels include Side and Alanya.

There is plenty of nature to explore in this region. Thebeaches around Belek are a nesting ground for Caretacareta (loggerhead) turtles, and hotels have to turn offbeach lights during the nesting season.

The Taurus mountains, snow-capped in winter, formthe backdrop to the beach resorts. Inland, there are manybeautiful pine forests, lakes and rivers. The ManagvatWaterfall, just north of Side, is one of the most popularnatural attractions, and has tourist shops and cafes. Youcan also take a boat trip along the river.



turkeys mediterranean facts

local foodIf its your first visit to Turkey, dont worryabout the food. Turkish cuisine is among thebest in the world. It relies heavily on freshingredients. Herbs and mild spices arewidely used, meaning that dishes areflavourful without being too hot.

Main meals normally start with meze aselection of appetisers traditionallyaccompanied by raki, an aniseed-flavouredbrandy similar to ouzo.

Lamb and chicken are staple ingredients

for main dishes. Kebab comes in lots ofregional varieties. Among the best is Bursakebab, served with a savoury tomato sauce.There is also, of course, plenty of excellentseafood along the coast.

Turks love their desserts and pastries the sweeter, the better. Best known isbaklava, flaky pastry soaked in honey.

Despite Turkeys reputation for strongcoffee, the national drink is tea served insmall glasses. Local beer is good, as aremany Turkish wines.

! Alanya

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when to goEarly and late summer is best,particularly if travelling with youngchildren. July and August are stiflinglyhot; temperatures often top 35C.Winter-sun holidays are mainlyrestricted to the Antalya region.

getting thereCharter flights operate to all four maincoastal gateways. Low-cost options includeeasyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Pegasus(www.flypgs.com). Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com) serves Bodrum,Dalaman and Antalya.

getting aroundTurkish driving is erratic, so car hire is not for the faint-hearted. Dolmus usually a minibus is the typical form of public transport in Turkey. Servicesconnect villages with local towns. Fares are cheap and its a great way tomeet the locals, although the vehicles can get hot and stuffy in summer.

tour operatorsA wide variety of operators features Turkey.

Cosmos (www.comos-holidays.co.uk)offers a one-week all-inclusive deal in

Belek from 499. Specialists includeWings Abroad (www.wingsabroad.co.uk),with a one-week all-inclusive stay inAltinkum from 497, and AnatolianSky (www.anatoliansky.co.uk), with

a one-week gulet cruise from Marmarisfrom 599. Upmarket operator Exclusive

Escapes (www.exclusiveescapes.co.uk)specialises in villas and small hotels. Two weeks

in a two-bedroom villa in Kordere, near Kalkan costs from 5,100 for a familyof four, with flights and car hire. Alternative Turkey(www.alternativeturkey.com) has a weeks golf holiday with three roundsfrom 599. Co-op Holidays (www.co-opholidays.co.uk) and Prestige(www.prestigeholidays.co.uk) also feature Turkey.

tourist informationTurkish Culture and Tourism Office: 020 7839 7778;www.gototurkey.co.uk

! Mardan Palace

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Howard Carr has been a frequent visitor to Turkey for thelast 25 years. He loves the warm hospitality including theodd glass of raki.


Boasting the classificationof "Special Class Hotel",Tuvana Hotel is an oasisof relaxation andquiescence, ensconced inthe heart of the historicalMediterranean metropolisof Antalya, Turkey.

The Tuvana Hotel,chosen the most romantichotel of the world in2011, was once the houseof a successful Ottomanofficer, Abdi Efendi, andthe centre of prestigiousimperial visits during theearly 18th century.

Now it has beentransformed into adistinguished boutiquehotel, surrounded byorange, plum, tangerine

and pomegranate trees,creating a fragrantlyunequalled atmosphereand managed by ancestorsof Abdi Efendi, withwhom you can meetduring your stay in thehotel and enjoy theirhospitality.

The timeless splendorof this hotels yesteryearshas been impeccablyconserved and heightenedby a refined andcontemporary philosophyin dcor. Ottomantradition is still highlypresent throughout theTuvana, with its statelyambiance and classicfurnishings.

The rooms of the hotel

are spacious and comewith all of the moderncommodities to beexpected from a hotel of itsclass.

There's a choice of fourrestaurants on site; twoindoor, one lovely onesituated in the garden, allthree of them servetraditional Turkish cuisineand famous with theirbarbecue parties.

The fourth really issomething special: SeraserFine Dining Restaurant isheaded by the mosttalented chefs of Turkey,and is a sophisticateddining affair with globalinfluences and is the bestrestaurant in the area.

Themost romantichotel in the world...

Tuvana Hotel, 07100 Tuzcular mah. Karanlik sok. No: 18 Kaleii/ AntalyaTel: +90 242.247.6015 Fax: +90 [email protected] www.tuvanahotel.comSeraser Restaurant: [email protected] www.seraserrestaurant.com

Advertisement Feature

With its perfectly preserved medievalOld Town, towering church spires andcharming cobbled streets, Tallinn hasevery reason to bask in the limelightas European Capital of Culture 2011.What I hadnt banked on was actually

becoming one of the many head-turning sights.As our guide Kristina urged us to pedal faster, and the

conference bike gathered speed, curious Estonian driv-ers slowed down to take a look and bemused touriststurned their cameras from architectural gems tofocus on our novel mode of transport. While walk-ing is the best way to discover Tallinn at leisure, the

circular bikes made for seven illustrate that this is no citystuck in a time-warp and its easy to combine historywith a decidedly different experience.

After cycling past the wood-boarded houses of theKalamaja neighbourhood to the coastline that was out ofbounds to citizens under Soviet occupation, we reluc-tantly turned for home, wishing wed signed up for the32 euro one-hour tour. Wed opted for 30 minutes basedon pre-ride nerves that were quickly dispelled withKristina firmly in charge of the steering and brakes.

Tallinns focal point is the Old Town square, a greatplace to start a city tour. The town hall is a Gothicmasterpiece and the main sights are within walking


With a host of special events to celebrate its status as European Capital of Culture, this is the yearto visit historic Tallinn. Jeannine Williamson gets on a bicycle made for seven to take a tour

escape to ! tallinn

! Tallinn old townVisit Estonia/Jaak Kadak

Balticsculture club

distance, including the fortified city walls, soaringchurches and unique attractions such as the Town HallPharmacy with ancient lotions and potions on display.

After stopping for coffee in one of the many cafeslining the square, we set off to Toompea, once thepreserve of the citys aristocracy and home to the presi-dents residence and parliament building. Its well worththe walk to the Patkuli viewing platform overlooking thestunning UNESCO-listed OldTown and we stopped for abreather at the Cathedral ofSt Mary, where countlesscoats of arms adorn thewhite walls.

festivalsSpring is the start of themain tourist season andmidsummer, with up to 18hours of daylight in June, isanother popular time to visit and also a good time toenjoy some of Tallinns many festivals.

One of the biggest celebrations takes place at thebeginning of June. Old Town Days is a week-long streetparty packed with medieval characters, musicians,dancers and entertainers. In July theres Beer Summer(www.ollesummer.ee), the largest outdoor festival in theBaltics. Despite its name it actually incorporates a hugemusic festival, albeit with plenty of beer on the side.

By the end of October things quieten down. But if


10 things to do in tallinn" Head up Toompea hill for panoramic views of the Old Town. " Visit ornate Alexander Nevksy Cathedral, an onion-domed reminder of

Estonias Russian links." Stroll along quaint St Catherines Passage with its colourful craft shops." Discover medieval remedies in the Town Hall Pharmacy, Europes

oldest chemist shop." Explore the revitalised Rotermann Quarter with its modern cafes, shops and

bars." Take to the streets for an unforgettable sightseeing tour on a bicycle made for

seven (www.citybike.ee)." See classical and modern art in the striking Kumu building, Estonias first

purpose-built museum (www.ekm.ee)." Admire beautiful interiors at 18th century Kadriorg Palace, built by Peter the

Great (also www.ekm.ee). " Visit landmark St Olavs Church which was once the worlds tallest building." Relax with a beer or two in one of Tallinns many bars.

escape to ! tallinn

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! Tallinn city walls

! Tallinn Medieval market! Olde Hansa

! Festival time

you dont mind cold weather then winter is a magicaltime to visit, especially during Tallinns Christmasmarket that starts in the last week of November.

After the cycling and walking, we had worked up anappetite and the next stop was Cafe Moon(www.kohvikmoon.ee) in the Vorgu district. Farremoved from your average cafe, talented Tallinn chefRoman Zashterinski has teamed up with two fellowchefs to serve fantastic food worthy of a designer restau-rant but in an informal setting. Although Estonia wavedgoodbye to its kroon and joined the eurozone at thebeginning of the year, its still an inexpensive destinationfor UK visitors.

My borscht soup with beef was three euros and themain course of duck in a honey lemon sauce wasunder 10 euros, a fraction of what youd pay for simi-lar food at home.

shoppingWhen its time for shopping check out the Rotermannquarter (www.rotermannikaubamaja.ee), whereold industrial buildings have gained a sophisticatednew lease of life and rub shoulders with strikingmodern architecture. Loovala is an open-plan craftstudio and the place to find unusual gifts, accessories,art and jewellery although getting a rocking chairmade of bricks back on the plane is probably a souvenirtoo far! Bright hand-made knitwear and butter knivesand bowls made from sweetly-scented juniper woodmake excellent and more portable gifts.


escape to ! tallinn

beyond tallinnTallinn may be the undeniable jewel in Estonias crown, but the city is surroundedby beautiful countryside leading to the western islands, famous for their spas. Twin-centre holidays are available or day excursions can be booked in Tallinn.

A popular trip combines Lahemaa National Park, 30 miles east of Tallinn, and oldfishing villages on the northern coast. The eight-hour excursion costs around 50euros per person. Alternatively a 12-hour day trip, from 125 euros, takes visitors tothe beautiful western isles of Muhu and Saaremaa.

A two-hour drive through densely-forested countryside leads to the resort town ofHaapsalu, lined with quaint wooden houses. An hour from there

is Virtsu, gateway for the 30-minute ferry ride to tiny Muhu,which is connected by causeway to neighbouring Saaremaa.

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! Rooftop architecture

! The Old Town

Round the corner, and part of Rotermann, we discov-ered the equally fascinating Soviet TechnologyExhibition, which reinvents itself each spring and is onlyopen during the summer. Housed in a cavernous formergrain store, household appliances, motorbikes, foodpackaging, clothes, leisure items and industrial equip-ment are among the eclectic exhibits.

Teenagers will love things such as the conferencebike and these more off-beat attractions. However,Tallinn is not an obvious destination for younger chil-dren and is best suited to couples and groups of friends.

A big draw is its good value nightlife, much of itcentred in the Old Town, and we spent an entertainingevening at Olde Hansa (www.oldehansa.ee). Thecandlelit restaurant serves hearty medieval-style dishesincluding wild boar, elk and even bear, although someBrits might be reluctant to try the latter. Huge plates offood were interspersed with beer, wine and rather ques-tionable medieval shots served up by jovial staff inperiod attire. Set menus start at 35 euros a head, which ispricey for Tallinn but its a fun night out.

The many nearby watering holes include everythingfrom atmospheric wine vaults and cellars to karaoke,sports and 70s-style retro bars. Try Viru beer, whichcomes in distinctive tall bottles, and other local brews.

This year is a particularly exciting time to visit thesmallest Baltic state and one of northern Europes oldestcapitals. To celebrate its European title, Tallinn is hostingone of the biggest cultural events in Estonias history witha host of special exhibitions, festivals and attractions onthe theme, Stories of the Seashore, highlighting thelegends and inspiration the sea has given to generations ofEstonians. That said, theres always plenty to see wheneveryou decide to visit and if you set off on a conference bikeyoull probably end up being the centre of attention.


escape to ! tallinn

tallinn facts

From canoeing along part of the Mississippi to rounding upsheep in Iceland, Jeannine Williamsons work as a freelance journalist takes her to well-known and remotedestinations around the globe.

when to goThe main season runs from April to October andsummer is pleasantly warm with long hours ofdaylight. Snow-covered Tallinn is beautiful inwintertime but it gets very cold.

getting thereEstonian Air (www.estonian-air.ee),easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair(www.ryanair.com) fly from London toTallinn.

accommodationFor a luxury hotel near the Old Town try historic Hotel Schlssle(www.schloesslehotel.com) or Swissotel Tallinn(www.swissotel.com/tallinn), which has a spa. On Saaremaa, themodern Go Spa hotel is by the sea (www.gospa.ee).

tour operatorsBaltic Holidays (www.balticholidays.com) features Tallinn shortbreaks, Estonia tours and spa holidays and Regent Holidays(www.regent-holidays.co.uk) offers city breaks and a Tallinn and

islands tour.

getting aroundThe best way to enjoy Tallinn is on foot.The Tallinn Card, available at the TouristInformation Centre and starting at 12for six hours, offers unlimited free public

transport.

tourist informationTallinn City Tourist Office: www.tourism.tallinn.eeVisit Estonia: www.visitestonia.com

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! Kadriorg Palace ! Medieval theme at the Olde Hansa restaurant

! St Catherines Passage

! Tallinn festival

tlm ! the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Spring 201120

lets try ! theme parks

Themeparks

appeal toeveryoneand

many of us nowtake holidaysbased around

them

With everything from high-octane thrill rides to family-friendly attractions, we are a nationhooked on theme parks, as Peter Ellegard reports

Walt Disney is often credited withinventing the theme park, when heopened Disneyland in California backin July 1955 and followed it with WaltDisney World in Florida in 1971.However, the worlds oldest amuse-

ment park dates back over 400 years; Danish parkDyrehavsbakken opened north of Copenhagen in 1583and is still operating today. There is conjecture aboutwhen the worlds first themed amusement park, ortheme park, first opened but the UKs oldest themepark, Blackgang Chine on the Isle of Wight, has beengoing strong since 1843. Wikipedia even claims it to bethe worlds oldest.

Whatever the history, theme parks appeal to every-one, young and old, and many of us now take holidaysbased around them.

New rides and attractions are continually being addedto entice visitors back and parks try and outdo eachother with the scariest, highest or fastest rides. Manyalso have hotels alongside so that visitors can enjoy

longer stays instead of cramming everything into aday trip. Heres where you can go for those thrills:

usa

Walt Disney World alone attracts nearly 50 million visi-tors a year to its four Florida parks, with Orlandoknown as the theme park capital of the world for itsprofusion of parks and attractions attracting morethan one million UK visitors a year. A holiday hereneeds serious planning to maximise both your time andbudget, as it is expensive for families who want a weekor two of theme-park hopping.

Disneys original Magic Kingdom park remains a bigfavourite, with its iconic Cinderella Castle and characterparades along Main Street. Major expansion in 2012will almost double the size of Fantasyland, adding a newcoaster.

The sprawling Walt Disney World Resort alsocomprises sister theme parks Epcot, with is futuristicpavilions, Disneys Hollywood Studios, which has a newPixar Pals parade, and Animal Kingdom, where the new

Ticket to ride


! TH13TEEN, theworlds first freefall drop coasterat Alton TowersResortAlton Towers

Wild Africa Trek soft adventure experiences includes avehicle safari and a guided bushwalk. There are alsotwo water parks, nightlife at Disney Downtown includ-ing a Cirque du Soleil show and four golf courses.

Universal Orlando opened its new Wizarding Worldof Harry Potter last year in the Islands of Adventurepark. It features a giant Hogwarts Castle, through whichvisitors take a tour, as well as three rides including Flightof the Hippogrif. Among rides at Islands are the Incredi-ble Hulk and Spiderman, while the Universal Studiospark has recent openings The Simpsons Ride and theHollywood Rip, Ride, Rockit coaster as well as oldfavourites Jaws and ET Adventure. Nearby Wet n Wildis a sister water park.

The SeaWorld family of parks includes SeaWorldOrlando, where Shamu the orca (killer whale) stars in ashow and where the new Manta coaster adds aquaticthrills. Alongside it are Discovery Cove, where visitorscan swim with dolphins and will be able to explore newunderwater attraction The Grand Reef from June, plusthe new Aquatica theme park, offering wave pools, waterrides and flume tubes through a dolphin pool. BuschGardens Tampa, another member of the SeaWorldfamily, opens the Cheetah Hunt high-speed, twistingcoaster ride this spring to add to its collection of thrillrides and animal attractions.

Also in Florida is the Kennedy Space Centre, dedi-cated to Americas space programme and including theShuttle Launch Experience, IMAX movies and thechance to meet an astronaut. LEGOLAND Florida isdue to open in October on the old Cypress Gardens sitein Central Florida.

California also offers a world of fun in its manytheme and amusement parks.

Mickey Mouse and friends have been welcomingvisitors to Disneyland in Anaheim for 55 years. Disney-land Resort augmented the original Disneyland Park,which has eight themed lands and the famous SleepingBeauty Castle, with Disneys California Adventure park,in 2001. The Little Mermaid Ariels Undersea Adven-ture is a new attraction opening there this summer.

Former fruit farm Knotts Berry Farm opened its firstattraction Ghost Town in 1940, to entertain queuingdiners at its adjacent chicken restaurant. It became thefirst of six themed areas, making it what it claims isAmericas oldest theme park. Camp Snoopy is the homeof the Peanuts characters.

Universal Studios Hollywood offers a mix of studiobacklot tours with shows and rides based on movie andTV blockbusters. It opened King Kong 360 3D last yearto replace the original destroyed in a fire in 2008.

Animal magnetism is a major draw at SeaWorld SanDiego, which has shows including one starring its ownShamu plus rides such as Journey to Atlantis and WildArctic.

LEGOLAND California Resort is geared for under-12s and features 50 family rides, attractions and shows.But for hard-core adrenalin-seekers, Six Flags MagicMountain features 100 rides and attractions including 16roller coasters, the fastest of which Superman: TheEscape was the worlds first ride to reach 100mph.



did you know?" More than twice as many people visit Disneyland Paris each year as the Eiffel

Tower." The worlds tallest roller coaster is Kingda Ka, at Six Flags Great Adventure in

Jackson, New Jersey. It stands 456 feet (139m) high." Europes highest coaster is Silver Star, at Europa-Park in Germany. It is 239

feet (73m) high." Cedar Point in Sandusky, Ohio, has 17 roller coasters, more than any other

park." The Ultimate coaster at Lightwater Valley in Ripon, Yorkshire, is the worlds

second longest steel roller coaster, at more than 1.4 miles long." Since it opened in 1955, Disneyland Resort in California has welcomed an

estimated 600 million guests.

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! Mickey and Minnieat Disneyland Paris

! The PerilousPlunge at

Knotts BerryFarm

! Spaceman encounterat Kennedy Space Centre

! Manatee atSeaWorld, Orlando

There are other great amusement parks across theUSA, although away from the warmth of Florida andCalifornia they are generally seasonal.

Canada does have a year-round theme park. AlbertasWest Edmonton Mall is not only North Americas largestshopping mall, it also contains the worlds second-largest amusement park as well as the worlds largestwater park and an indoor salt-water lake with a replicaof Christopher Columbuss Santa Maria ship.

europe

Europe also has a plethora of theme parks; oldfavourites LEGOLAND in Denmark, Efteling inHolland and Germanys Europa-Park have been joinedmore recently by Futuroscope and Disneyland Paris inFrance, mainland Spains PortAventura and Siam Parkon Tenerife.

Disneyland Paris is Europes leading tourist destina-tion and has had over 200 million visitors since itopened in 1992. It has two parks, with Walt DisneyStudios opening in 2002, plus seven themed hotels. Lastyear saw the opening of Toy Story Playland, featuringthemed rides and attractions inspired by the Pixar films.

Also near Paris is Parc Asterix, based on the cartoonhero, Asterix the Gaul. A Gallic village is at the heartof the park, which also has areas themed around theRoman Empire, ancient Greece and theVikings.

Still in France, Futuroscope is a futur-istic educational theme park nearPoitiers. A new ride called 8thContinent is based on the vast massof plastic waste found floating in thePacific in 1997, in which riders sit onscooters and use laser pistols to eradicatewaste polluting the sea. Another new attrac-tion, Sea Monsters, is a 3D experience that


brings you face to face with gigantic creatures from theage of the dinosaurs.

History forms the basis for the Puy du Fou themepark near Nantes, while volcanoes are the theme behindVulcania, set amid dormant cones in the Auvergne.

But if its fantasy you want, it is dished up in spadesat Hollands enchanting Efteling park, while Copen-hagens Tivoli Park has been an institution since 1843for its gardens and theatre. Denmark is also home to theoriginal LEGOLAND theme park, at Billund.

Fantasy is also the theme this year at Europa-Park,Germanys biggest theme park and second only inpopularity in Europe behind Disneyland Paris with fourmillion visitors a year. An enchanted forest, nestlingbetween the England and Austria areas and new for2011, is all about fairy tales. The park, located near theborder with France and Switzerland and featuring 100-plus attractions and shows in 13 European-themedareas, also sees the addition of the interactive Volo daVinci ride, in which riders hover above the Italian areain a recreation of Leonardo da Vincis flying machine.The resort has four themed hotels.

Spain has several parks which you can combinewith a holiday by the beach. Close to Benidorm on theCosta Blanca, Terra Mitica has Mediterranean-themedareas filled with thrill rides including Magnus Colossus the longest wooden roller coaster in Europe.

PortAventura, near Salou on the Costa Dorada, isSpains largest theme park and was its first, opening in1995. A sixth themed zoned, Sesamo Aventura, opensin April based on childrens TV series Sesame Street.The existing zones encompass 30 attractions, includingthe Hurakan Condor freefall ride in its Mexico area andeight-loop Dragon Khan coaster in China, 75 restau-rants and over 100 live shows a day. It also offers theadjacent PortAventura Aquatic Park, four themed hotelsand two Greg Norman-designed golf courses.

Europes biggest water park, Siam Park, opened in


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! The Nemesis Infernoat Thorpe Park

! Hurakan Condorat PortAventura

! Wizarding Worldof Harry Potter

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Tenerife in 2008 with 25 Thai-themed buildings, thrillrides including a flume tube through an alligator pooland a Wave Palace with artificial surfing waves.

uk

Spurred on by the growing interest in family parks andwhite-knuckle rides, the British theme parks scene hasseen heavy investment. Making its debut on April 9,Peppa Pig World is a new park for young ones based onthe popular childrens TV show at Paultons FamilyTheme Park in Hampshire.

Alton Towers Resort, the UKs leading theme park,opened TH13TEEN the worlds first vertical freefalldrop roller coaster last year. Other major attractionsinclude the Nemesis inverted coaster, the Oblivion verti-cal drop coaster and the high-speed Rita coaster. TheStaffordshire park also offers two hotels and theCaribbean-themed Alton Towers Waterpark.

Surreys Thorpe Park has added a new attraction in2011, in the shape of the Storm Surge spiralling wild-water raft ride. Extreme thrills are offered by rides suchas the inverted, corkscrewing Nemesis Inferno rollercoaster, the multi-looping Colossus coaster, SAW: TheRide, and Stealth, a launched coaster which reaches80mph in just 1.7 seconds.

Drayton Manor opens its new Ben 10 UltimateMission coaster, based on the Ben 10 cartoon series,on April 23. Its other rides include Shockwave, Apoca-lypse and G-Force. The on-site Drayton Manor Hotelopens in July.

New for 2011 at Chessington World of Adventuresare the Azteca ruins at its Sea Life centre. It also featuresthrill rides including Kobra, Vampire, Dragons Fury andRameses Revenge and it has a safari-themed hotel.

LEGOLAND Windsor celebrates its 15th birthdaythis year with a new 8 million LEGO-themed underwa-ter attraction, the Atlantis Submarine Voyage, withsubmarines taking 14 people through an ocean tank fullof sharks, rays and fish.

middle east/far east/australia

Abu Dhabi took the crown for the worlds largest indoortheme park with the opening last October of FerrariWorld, featuring 20 Ferrari-inspired rides and attrac-tions and the worlds fastest roller coaster Formula



theme park facts

Rossa, which reaches 150mph in under five seconds.In the Far East, parks worth making a detour for

include Hong Kongs impressive Ocean Park and HongKong Disneyland, while Down Under you should tryAustralian-themed Dreamworld, on the Gold Coast.

"WIN a family theme park break to Europa-Park inGermany. See page 59.

usa parksWalt Disney World Resort: http://disneyworld.disney.go.comUniversal Florida: www.universalorlando.comSeaWorld Theme Parks: www.seaworld.comKennedy Space Centre: www.ksc.nasa.govDisneyland Resort: http://disneyworld.disney.go.comUniversal Studios Hollywood: www.universalstudioshollywood.comKnotts Berry Farm: www.knotts.comSix Flags Magic Mountain: www.sixflags.comLEGOLAND California: http://california.legoland.comWest Edmonton Mall: www.wem.ca

european parksDisneyland Paris:www.disneylandparis.co.ukParc Asterix: www.parcasterix.frFuturoscope:http://uk.futuroscope.comEfteling: www.efteling.comLEGOLAND: www.legoland.dkEuropa-Park: www.europapark.dePortAventura: www.portaventura.co.ukTerra Mitica: www.terramiticapark.comSiam Park: www.siampark.net

uk parksAlton Towers: www.altontowers.comThorpe Park: www.thorpepark.comDrayton Manor: www.draytonmanor.co.ukLEGOLAND Windsor: www.legoland.co.ukPaultons Family Park: www.paultonspark.co.ukChessington World of Adventures: www.chessington.com

middle eastFerrari World:www.ferrariworldabudhabi.com

tour operators & ticketsNAR (UK):www.orlandoattractions.comVirgin Holidays: www.virginholidays.co.ukAttractions Tickets Direct: www.attraction-tickets-direct.co.ukOrlando Flex Ticket: www.orlandoflexticket.co.ukCosmos: www.cosmos-holidays.co.ukTravel City Direct: www.travelcitydirect.comFirst Choice: www.firstchoice.co.ukSuperbreak: www.superbreak.comLeger Holidays: http://tothemagic.co.ukDFDS Seaways: www.dfdsseaways.co.uk

! The original LEGOLAND

! Blackgang Chine

! The 8thContinent atFuturoscope

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! Meeting Euromaus

Fancy taking the kids to southern Germany fora fun-filled, two-day break at one of Europestop theme parks? You can do just that if youwin this easy-to-enter competition, thanks toEuropa-Park and easyJet. One lucky family

will win an unforgettable stay at Europa-Park, includingan overnight stay for two adults and two children in one

of the resorts four themed hotels with breakfast, twodays admission to the park and return flights witheasyJet to nearby EuroAirport in Basel, Switzerland. Itis a prize worth 1,000.

Europa-Park is Germanys biggest theme park, situ-ated at Rust/Baden close to the border with France andSwitzerland, and offers fairytale adventures and fun forthe whole family. Open from April 9 to November 6,2011, it offers over 100 attractions and internationalshows in 13 European-themed areas covering 210 acres.

Enjoy the thrill of rollercoast rides such as Silver Starand Eurosat in France, Matterhorn-Blitz in Switzerlandand Euro-Mir in Russia, plus water fun on SuperSplashin Portugal and Poseidon in Greece, as well as showsincluding knights contests, vaudeville performances,ice-skating and childrens theatre.

Visit www.europa-park.co.uk for more information.


Live like a lord for a weekend atHeythrop Park Resort aformer stately home in the heartof the Cotswolds if you winthis fantastic competition.

One lucky reader and a guesthave the chance to stay at thebrand new, contemporaryCrowne Plaza hotel adjoining thehistoric, 18th century, Grade IIHeythrop Park Hotel, built as thehome of the 1st Duke ofShrewsbury and now also a hotel.

The winner will enjoy twonights accommodation for twoin a chic executive room. Theprize also includes a full Englishbreakfast on both mornings anda three-course dinner on thefirst night at the four-star resort,opened last October by PrimeMinister David Cameron. Oneround of golf for two plus twospa treatments at Heythrops

fabulous spa and health club isalso included.

Heythrop Park Resort is set in440 acres of glorious, woodedestate grounds, with its 18-hole,par-72 course finishing on a greenright in front of the grand hall(see page 65 for resort review).

For more information, go to

www.heythropparkresort.co.ukor call 01608 673333.

how to enterTo WIN a weekend golf and spastay at Heythrop Park Resort,simply answer this question:

Question: Who officiallyopened Heythrop Park Resort inOctober, 2010?

To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click onthe Competitions button.Closing date is May 23, 2011. Seewebsite for terms & conditions.

READER OFFERSave 75 on a stay Dont worry if you dont win thecompetition, as we have afabulous offer for tlm readers.Enjoy a nights stay in the four-star Crowne Plaza at HeythropPark Resort, including dinner, bed& breakfast in an executive roomfor just 149 saving over 75on the normal price.

The offer is valid for bookingsuntil December 31, 2011, and issubject to availability. For detailsand terms and conditions, visitwww.tlm-magazine.co.uk andclick on Travel Offers.

Europa-Park

how to enterTo WIN a two-day family break to Europa-Park Resortfor two adults and two children with flights by easyJet,simply answer this question:

Question: How many themed European areas arethere at Europa-Park?

To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and clickon the Competitions button. Closing date is May 15,2011. See website for terms & conditions.

competitions ! theme park break + golf and spa stay

WIN a 1,000 family theme park break to

WIN a golf and spa stay at Heythrop Park, worth 335

! Comfy beds, but you sleep inside!

! The Crowne Plaza hotel

Its enough to make you drop your ice-cream orchoke on your candy-floss. Few summer after-noons start in a more stimulating fashion thanwith the sudden deafening roar of the Red Arrowsscorching over your head. Not so long ago a kiss-me-quick hat and a quick dip in the briny were

about as much excitement as you could expect at aBritish seaside resort. These days, families are morelikely to be thrilled by a screeching Typhoon fighter,wartime Spitfire or the RAFs display team being putthrough their paces.

Air shows have become a star attraction at top resortsaround the country. Theyre fascinating and theyrefree.

At Eastbourne, you can treat yourself to a spectacularhelicopter flight along the coast from Beachy Headbefore watching fantastic air acrobatics over the seawhich dont cost a penny.

What else can you do at resorts around the coast thissummer?

south coastWithin a few years of thePrince Regents ornate palacethe Royal Pavilion beingcompleted in 1823, Brighton hadbecome the countrys favouriteseaside bolthole. Today, this EastSussex town is one of the busiestand buzziest of resorts, with athriving arts and cultural life aswell as traditional holiday attrac-tions.

It has a pebble beach and one of the best piers. Thereare also attractive gardens, water sports, horse-racing,


We do liketo be besidetheseaside

uk uncovered ! britains beach resorts

Forget the kiss-me-quick hats and sticks of rock. These days,Britains seaside resorts are still pulling in the crowds but nowthey are doing it with the wow factor, as John Law reports.

! Camber Sands Brita

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Sea Life Centre, live entertainment at theBrighton Dome, marvellous shopping and

restaurants and this year a newRegency fashion exhibition at the

elegant Royal Pavilion.Eastbournes established

attractions include award-winning beaches, a uniqueseafront bandstand withsummer concerts, a Victorianpier, Beachy Head and thestart of the South DownsNational Park.

This years Interna-tional Airshow (August11-14) is among severalspecial events. Newones include a CyclingFestival (May 21-22)

and Eastbourne Fiesta(May 28-29) featuring

food from around theglobe, live music and dance.

Seeking somewherequieter? Bexhill-on-Sea is

undergoing a 5 millionredesign of its

seafront, givingit new sheltersand seating,and a new-look

MetropoleLawn. The refur-

bished Colonnade isopening a new restau-

rant and kiosks, while the iconic De La Warr Pavillionarts centre is again staging a full programme of eventsand exhibitions.

In neighbouring West Sussex, Littlehampton andBognor Regis have award-winning beaches and promise



plenty of traditional family fun. You can jump on a water-chute or walzer at Littlehamptons Harbour Park andcatch your breath afterwards enjoying views across theChannel from the resorts surprising new Long Bench,made from reclaimed driftwood and claimed to be thelongest in the world. An Armed Forces Day (June 25)features a vintage vehicle show, land and air displaysincluding a pipe and drum band.

For something a bit different, Bognors annual Inter-national Birdman competition (July 16-17) offers theintriguing spectacle of would-be fliers leaping off thepier. If you miss that one, Worthing stages a similarmadcap event on August 13-14. Another peak-seasonWorthing draw is the Festival (July 22-August 2), whereholiday crowds gather for the fireworks, bus rally andAmerican Rod and Custom Car Show.

In Dorset, Bournemouth is a once genteel resort thatsgetting trendier by the minute. Here youll find sevenmiles of golden sands, surfing and other water sports, alively nightlife and good range of accommodation andclassy restaurants.

New this summer is the 3 million Pavilion Dance,where boppers can join 48 different classes from hip hopto samba. The award-winning gardens and anOceanarium stocked with sharks and stingrays are popu-lar, while special events include Carnival Week (August1-7) and the Air Festival (August 18-21).

south eastThe opening of the railway line from London in 1843placed Folkestone and its neighbouring Kent coastaltowns firmly on the Victorian holiday map. Today, itsattractions include the award-winning Lower LeasCoastal Park, with its sheltered bays for swimming, asandpit and adventure playground. For somewherequieter, try Folkestone Warren, which has a sandy beachwith rock pools and fossils.

Deal has been a resort since Victorian times but was aflourishing port before that. It has many B&Bs and holi-day cottages, and its winding streets house many

! Wingwalkers at Bournemouths Air Festival

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! Broadstairs, Botany Bay



speciality food shops. Nearby Ramsgate is a harbourtown but has an award-winning sandy beach. FromPegwell Bay round to Reculver, which takes in Rams-gate as well as Broadstairs and Margate, there are 15sandy beaches and bays, of which nine have beenawarded Blue Flag status.

Margates Old Town is undergoing a transformationand a new Turner Contemporary gallery is due to openthis spring. Besides the beaches, visitors can go waterskiing or play bowls, golf or tennis at Westbrook Bay, orstroll along the prom and hitch a donkey ride along theMain Sands.

Adding to the appeal of Herne Bays Victorian architec-ture are events including Continental markets and carnivals,while Whitstable is noted for its oysters. You can tuck intothem overlooking its north-facing beaches, followed by apint at the Old Neptune pub right on the beach

Just across the Thames estuary in Essex, Southend-on-Sea offers seven miles of seafront and the worldslongest pier. Theres plenty of family fun and somecracking free festivals lined up for summer. These rangefrom the Air Festival (May 28-29) to the Carnival(August 12-20), a Grand Puppet Festival and Old LeighRegatta (both dates to be confirmed) where eventsinclude Morris dancing and a cockle-eating contest inaddition to sailing.

splashing outGrand by name, grand by nature Eastbournes leading hotel of that title remains,surprisingly, Britains only five-star seaside hotel.

The elegant and traditional Victorian Eastbourne Grand(www.grandeastbourne.com) has 152 rooms and enjoys an enviable seafrontposition with views across the Channel and up to Beachy Head. Manyholidaymakers prefer the more informal surroundings of smaller, contemporaryboutique hotels springing up around the coast. Bournemouth, for example, has twoaward-winning boutique properties, the Urban Beach (www.urbanbeach.co.uk)and the eco-friendly Green House (www.thegreenhousehotel.co.uk).

Others where style comes with sea breezes include The Vincent(www.thevincenthotel.com) in Southport, whose penthouse has a rooftop hot-tub, and Babbacombes Cary Arms (www.caryarms.co.uk), described as an inn onthe beach gastro-pub.

! Brighton Pier ! Ramsgate

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Kent

east angliaStill in Essex is Clacton, long popular with Londonerswanting to escape to the sea. This area of England boaststhe lowest rainfall in the UK, so the chances of your holi-day being spoilt are lower. Clacton has sandy beaches, aVictorian pier, themed gardens and factory outlet shop-ping. It also holds an annual air show over August BankHoliday and stages an annual carnival and jazz festival.

Frinton is Clactons more refined neighbour and hassome fascinating Art Deco buildings.

On the Suffolk coast, charming and unspoilt Alde-burgh has a great musical heritage, started by composerBenjamin Britten, whose Aldeburgh Festival (June 10-26) remains an annual highlight. The town began as aport and fishing village and visitors can still buy thedaily catch from fishermen on the beach. Southwold is asleepy little resort with a pier, brewery and lighthouse.

Great Yarmouth is set on a 15-mile stretch of softNorfolk sand perfect for families who can also enjoy aGolden Mile of amusement arcades in the town, alongwith theme parks. Six museums include the Potteries andSmoke House and the award-winning Time and Tide.Sports fans enjoy the golf and regular summer horse-racing. Nearby Caister stages an annual Weekender soulmusic beach party over the May Day bank holiday.

Cromer visitors can swim or surf from the sand andshingle beach, delve in rock pools and enjoy a clifftopwalk to the old lighthouse. Attractive Victorian buildingsrise up from the beach chalets and crab boats and there aremuseums tracing the history of this historic fishing town.

Norfolk has several small, charming resorts includingone-time fishing village Sheringham and Wells next theSea, popular for its holiday caravan sites, as well asHunstanton, which faces west towards The Wash on theso-called Sunset Coast. It offers pristine beaches,cliffs, nature reserves and sport on land and sea.

east coastYorkshire offers a good choice of popular resorts withlots of family entertainment. Among them, Scarboroughhas two beaches, including North Bays Blue Flag sandybeach set against hills and cliffs and dominated by Scar-borough Castle.


Choice of hotel rooms or 2 & 3 bedroom self catering houses 2 night staysavailable in self catering Watermark Brasserie and Bar Health Club with fitness arena Swimming Pool Hot tub Sauna Steam Room Free Parking

Overlooking Porth beach and the stunning North Cornish coastline, GlendorgalHotel and Self Catering is set in a secluded coastal position within 17 acres ofprivate headland, yet only a short stroll from Newquay town centre.

Lusty Glaze Road, Porth, Newquay, Cornwall, TR7 3AD | Call now on 01637 874937E-mail: [email protected] | www.glendorgalhotel.co.uk | www.glendorgalselfcatering.co.uk

10% off all bookingsmade before 1 June 2011 and 15% off allnew bookings for 2012made before 1 February 2012 Please quotereference TLM

tlm ! the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Spring 201132

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Hallmark Hotel BournemouthDurley Chine Road, Bournemouth, BH2 5JS

01202 751 000 bournemouth.reservations@hallmarkhotels.co.ukwww.hallmarkhotels.co.uk

The Hotel Collingwood is one of Bournemouth's finest hotels, ideally situated weare only a short walk to the beach, Bournemouth International Centre andcosmopolitan town centre. A family run establishment ensures you of anexceptionally high standardof service at all times. Thehotel has 53 modern ensuite bedrooms, whichhave their own distinctivestyle and are all furnishedand equipped withindividual heating controls,direct dial telephone, digitalfreeview TV, tea / coffeefacilities. Lift access to allfloors, as well as ample freeparking for 70 cars.We provide an exceptional and exciting array of entertainment most eveningsthroughout the year, Each live cabaret is unique, whether you want to dance thenight away or just listen, all tastes of music are catered for.

Hotel Collingwood11 Priory Road, Bournemouth BH2 5DF

Tel: 01202 557575 Email: [email protected]

The best of the Britishseaside with great value

coach holidays from Alfa TravelAlfa Travel is the fastest growing coach holiday company in the UK. In addition to coachholidays throughout the UK & Western Europe, Alfa also own 19 AA 2 star hotels manyof which are listed buildings of great character and all are situated in prime seasidelocations. From the strikingly picturesque town of St Ives to Scarborough, arguablyBritains oldest seaside resort.With prices starting from 144 for a five day Spring break including return travel,hotel accommodation, excursions, traditional British breakfasts and four course eveningmeals youll struggle to find better value elsewhere!

Call us now on 08451 305666 or visit www.alfatravel.co.ukThe first drawn entrant to correctly answer this will receive a 100 Alfa Travel Holiday voucher. Closing date 31/08/11*Discount valid on holidays of 5 days or more, new bookings only, booking must be made before 31/08/11 offer valid on alldepartures until 30/11/11 cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer, offer can be withdrawn at any time, for full termsand conditions see main holiday brochure

Win a 100 holidayvoucher!Answer the following question: How manyhotels are in the Leisureplex group?Still a winner!Quote TLM* on any Alfa holiday and receive

a 10 discount per person!Send your answer to [email protected]

Set on a sweeping bay, Filey offers a wide stretch ofgolden sand protected by the rocky grandeur of FileyBrigg, a haven for birds and wildlife. This elegantEdwardian resort has an attractive old promenade.

south westDorset resorts Weymouth and Lyme Regis are majorgateways to the Jurassic Coast, a 95-mile stretch ofcoast encompassing glorious beaches and fossil-strewncliffs stretching into Devon. Devon and Cornwallsmarvellous beaches and countryside attract many longer-stay visitors from the South East.

The English Riviera in South Devon incorporatesTorquay, Paignton and Brixham; Torquay alone has ninebeaches. Lovers of crime fiction enjoy following thetowns Agatha Christie Trail. The writer lived there formuch of her life and fans can track down Hercule Poirotat the Museum and for the first time this summer take a vintage bus tour to Christies splendid house,Greenway, now owned by the National Trust.

A fun event for youngsters is the Brixham PirateFestival (April 30-May 1). Last year, to an accompani-ment of sea shanties and folk music, 1,744 buddingBluebeards and Captain Hooks set the record for themost pirates in a single gathering.

Cornwall scooped top honours in the 2010 BritishTravel Awards, being named Best UK Holiday Countyand having St Ives voted Best UK Seaside Town.

St Ives also collared the Best Family Holiday Desti-nation title in the Coast Awards. The town is home toTate St Ives and famed for its arts scene, superb beaches,scenic harbour and its warren of lanes with stylish cafesand working artist studios and galleries.

Newquay is Cornwalls liveliest resort, offering someof the countrys best surfing and plenty of nightlife anddecent restaurants. Relentless Boardmasters, Europesbiggest surf, skate and music festival, celebrates its 30thanniversary from August 10-14. Due to open thissummer is a new four-screen digital cinema capable ofscreening 3D films.

Weston-Super-Mare in Somerset is famous for thedonkeys that trek along its wide stretch of sand and thiswill be the first summer for Westons newly re-openedGrand Pier. Between July and September 13 sculptorswill use 500 tonnes of sand to create masterpieces up to13ft (4m) high in the annual Sand Sculpture Festival.

walesThe neighbouring North Wales resorts of Rhyl andPrestatyn are traditional seaside towns with miles ofsandy beaches and lots going on. Rhyl has plenty offamily attractions, plus a theatre, marine lake, miniaturerailway, botanical gardens, and an airshow (August 6-7).The Seaquarium will even boast its very own residentmermaid this summer after advertising the post!

In Prestatyn you can splash around the Nova Centre,with its pools, slides and waterchutes, or get the familyrolling at the North Wales Indoor Bowls Centre.

For a more sedate holiday, Tenby in Pembrokeshire isbest known for its three Blue Flag beaches and prettyharbour.

north westBoring it aint. Resorts dont come any bigger orbrasher than Blackpool, where iconic attrac-tions and round-the-clock action continue topull in the summer crowds.

There are miles of golden sand and thrillsgalore on the Pleasure Beach Resort white-knuckle rides and Sandcastle Waterparks hugerollercoaster. A new Nickelodeon-themed attractionis due to open at Pleasure Beach, while the towns othertop crowd pleasers include the famous Tower, the zoo,Sea Life Centre and autumns Blackpool Illuminations.

Less boisterous is Morecambe, which has a widestretch of sand on the edge of Morecambe Bay. Here you


Britains seaside piers were much lovedby the Victorians and enjoyed a secondheyday in the 1950s. Sadly, many havesince crumbled into the sea or beendevastated by fire, but others arestaging a further revival.1. Weston-Super-Mare (built 1904):

Wrecked by fire three years ago, thestriking new-look Grand Pier re-opened last autumn to feature theUKs first laser maze, go-karts andmini-rollercoaster among itsattractions.

2. Cromer (1901): An unspoilt gemwhose Pavilion Theatre presents theonly surviving end-of-the-pier varietyshow.

3. Southend-on-Sea (1890): The worldslongest pleasure pier, measuring 1.3miles, has suffered several fires butstill has a railway and was theNational Piers Society Pier of theYear in 2007.

4. Brighton West Pier (1866): Onceregarded as an architecturalmasterpiece, it now needs rebuildingafter two serious blazes.

5. Brighton Palace Pier (1899):

Thankfully Brightons other pier isthriving and offers amusements, thrillrides and a new food court.

6. Eastbourne (1870): A handsomeconstruction featuring restaurants,bars and gift shops beneath itsturrets, domes and gables.

7. Lowestoft South Pier (1846): Majorrefurbishment in 2008 has turnedthe pier into a family entertainmentcomplex with a bar, restaurant,gaming and live music.

8. Southwold (1900): A popular localattraction with shops, restaurant,caf and arcade. Plans for a luxuryhotel to replace the pavilion haverecently been shelved.

9. Deal (1957): The first structure waswashed away shortly after opening in1838 and the current pier is built ofreinforced concrete. The recently-added caf has won a design award.

10.Southport (1860): The countryssecond-longest pier. A carousel andamusement hall welcome visitorsand a tram takes them to thepavilion at the end for the arcadesand other attractions.

10 peerless piers

! Grand Pier, Weston-Super-Mare

! Donkeys atWeston-Super-Mare


Gran

d Pi

er

North Somerset Council

can enjoy magnificent sunsets or spot the seabirds on aCross Bay Walk. Architectural gems include the Victo-rian Winter Gardens and recently-restored art decoMidland Hotel, while a stroll along the prom reveals acheery bronze statue of the towns most famous son comedian Eric Morecambe.

scotland and northern irelandIf youd rather avoid the tourist masses and sizzlingnightlife to enjoy glorious sandy beaches and spectac-ular scenery, Northern Irelands Causeway Coast has


uk resor t facts

family holiday centresFor those seeking plenty of entertainment and activitiesfor everyone without breaking the bank, family holidaycentres are like mini-resorts in themselves.

Butlins (www.butlins.com) celebrates its 75thbirthday this year at its three seafront centres atBognor Regis (West Sussex), Minehead (Somerset) andSkegness (Lincolnshire). There are live shows for all from dance, music and drama for toddlers to cabaretfor parents. Active types can try Splash Waterworld,beach sports, improve their rugby and cricket skills, ortackle the High Ropes or Climbing Wall.

Haven (www.haven.com) has 35 holiday parksand Safari Tents are a new glamping option at PerranSands (Cornwall) and Burnham-on-Sea (Somerset). Inaddition to super pools and plenty of sports, Haventempts youngsters with Kids Clubs, cookery lessons,year-round pantos and Wildlife Detective trails.

Along with tribute acts, this summers stars at some ofthe 39 Park Resorts (www.park-resorts.com) centresinclude Joe Pasquale, Chico and Shaun Williamson.Outdoor summer festivals are planned at resorts such asBideford Bay (Devon) and Kessingland Beach, betweenthe Suffolk resorts of Lowestoft and Southwold.


! Butlins

Butli

ns

resortsBrighton: www.visitbrighton.comEastbourne: www.visiteastbourne.comBexhill-on-Sea:www.visit1066country.comLittlehampton/Bognor Regis:www.sussexbythesea.comWorthing: www.visitworthing.co.ukBournemouth: www.bournemouth.co.ukFolkestone: www.discoverfolkestone.co.ukMargate: www.visitthanet.co.ukSouthend-on-Sea: www.visitsouthend.co.ukGreat Yarmouth: www.great-yarmouth.co.ukCromer: www.visitnorthnorfolk.comAldeburgh: www.suffolkcoastal.gov.ukScarborough/Filey: www.discoveryorkshirecoast.comWeston-Super-Mare:www.visitsomerset.co.ukEnglish Riviera: www.englishriviera.co.ukSt Ives: www.stives-cornwall.co.ukNewquay: www.visitnewquay.orgRhyl/Prestatyn: www.rhyl-prestatyn.co.ukTenby: www.visittenby.co.ukBlackpool: www.visitblackpool.comMorecambe: www.visitmorecambe.co.ukPortrush/Portstewart: www.northcoastni.comAyr: www.ayrshire-arran.com

piersNational Piers Society: www.piers.org.ukWeston-Super-Mare:www.grandpier.co.ukCromer: www.cromer-pier.comSouthend-on-Sea: www.southend.gov.ukBrighton West: www.westpier.co.ukBrighton Palace:www.brightonpier.co.ukEastbourne: www.eastbournepier.comLowestoft: www.thesouthpier.co.ukSouthwold: www.southwoldpier.co.ukDeal: www.dealpier.comSouthport: www.visitsouthport.com

John Law remembershappy holidays as a smallchild spent beachcombingand paddling in Devon andthe Isle of Wight. A traveljournalist for the past 35years, he still enjoys visitsto the English seaside.

! Birdmen at Worthing

! St Ives

! Beach sculptureat Aldeburgh

much to commend it. Northern Ireland has eight Blue Flag beaches where

families take to the water to swim, sail, windsurf andcanoe. The neighbouring resorts of Portrush and Port-stewart both have superb beaches and highly-ratedrestaurants. Portrush also has a golf course and anamusement park with thrill rides and childrens entertain-ment, while Portstewart is handy for Barmouth natureand wildlife reserve.

The Ayrshire Coast has some of Scotlands best sandybeaches, with the town of Ayr offering the most seasideentertainment. It has a decent beach with a childrensplaypark nearby and a wealth of history and otherattractions. Su

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! Surfing at Newquay

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off the beaten track ! hidden china and tibet


A taste ofChina

For many visitors, a trip to China is a whistlestop tour of its famous highlights. But, asPeter Ellegard explains, if you can stomach some of the exotic delicacies, there aremany wonders to savour around the country

How hungry are you? my inter-preter and friend, Lillian, askedas the minibus headed backtowards the city of Guilin, inChinas south-western Guangxiprovince.

It was post-SARS and I was in China for threemonths as presenter for a TV series being filmed by anall-Chinese crew for national TV channel CCTV-9. Wehad spent a gruelling day up in the mountain riceterraces of Longsheng, a couple of hours drive away,and I was starving. Without thinking, I replied: I couldeat a horse.

They nodded understandinglyand that evening, wewere tucking into horse flesh at one of the citys horse-meat restaurants. Be careful what you wish for in China they literally take you at your word.

Such food may not appeal to animal-loving, squeamish Westerners like me, butin many parts of China it is the norm.Throughout that and later trips aroundChina, I was offered (and it was rude not toaccept) various other exotic dishes.Camel hump, chickens feet, sparrows,snakes, fried scorpions and silk worms ona stick even a decapitated chickens headwhich, as guest of honour at an officialreception hosted by the local CommunistParty chief, I had to tackle while theylooked on. After biting some skin off itsface and quickly swallowing it withoutchewing, I smiled politely and pushedthe plate away, saying: Wo chi bao la,or I am full. At which point the camera-man grabbed the bird by its cockscomband dug out its eyes, slurping them down.They are a prized delicacy, apparently.

Another time, I and the male film crewmembers were served a special whiskywhile the women were given tea. Lillian

refused my attempts to share some, eventually admittingit contained a special aphrodisiac ingredient meant onlyfor men dogs testicles! Liquid Viagra, in other words.On a different trip, I misheard a menu translation at atraditional restaurant in Kunming, Yunnan province, andordered what I thought were honeyed beansonly to beserved a plate of fried honey bees!

All of which demonstrates that, for the adventurousprepared to escape the well-trodden Golden Triangleitineraries Beijing, Shanghai and Xian when visitingChina and explore off the beaten track, the experience isa world away from what we are used to.

regional cuisinesThe Chinese love their food. They live to eat rather thaneat to live, and the phrase Chi fan le ma? meaningHave you eaten? is used as a form of greeting.

China has many different regionalcuisines. Some, like in Sichuan, are

very spicy. In the north, Mongo-lian hotpot helps fortify against

the cold winters. The people of Cantonese

capital Guangzhou, nearHong Kong, are renownedfor their unusual tastes, as

its Quingping Marketunderlines. Starfish, dried

ants, bottled deer fawns youwill see all that and more.

Even in Beijing, you can findbizarre foods. At Wangfujing Streetsnight market, a short stroll from the

Forbidden City, you can try the fried scor-pions and silkworms. Beware the scorpionsstingers, though. They hurt if you prick yourlip on them, as happened to me. Thankfully,they are not venomous!

Most visitors to Beijing only see the mostfamous sights, which also include the



All p

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Elle

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! Karst scenery, Yangshuo,Guangxi province

! Samye Monastery, Tibet

! Ethnic minority girl, Yangshuo

Temple of Heaven and Great Wall. Explore beyond thoseand you can find many hidden delights, such as BeihaiPark, where locals practice tai-chi in front of ornamentalarches, or some of the few remaining traditional hutongneighbourhoods, through which you can take a pedicabtour. In the grounds around key monuments, you can seepeople playing traditional instruments or ancient boardgames, or practising calligraphy with giant paintbrusheson paving slabs.

At the Great Wall, you can escape the throngs byplanning your trip in winter. It may be frigid, but you canwalk the impressive ramparts in peace and often withclear-blue skies, even in normally-polluted Beijing.

Combine it with a visit to Harbin, in Heilongjiangprovince. Chinas most northerly city, on the Russianborder, every January it hosts the Harbin Ice and SnowFestival one of the worlds foremost winter festivals,with stunning ice and snow carvings illuminated bydazzling colours at night. Attractions include the onion-domed Church of St Sophia, now a museum, and aSiberian tiger park.

Shanghai, famed for its space-age Oriental Pearl TVTower and skyscrapers, has its hidden corners, too.Behind its famous waterfront area of colonial Europeanarchitecture, The Bund, you will find glories including

the historic, wooden Huxingting teahouse, on a lake in apretty park. At Chinese New Year, it is decorated withtraditional paper lanterns.

Visitors going to Xian for the Terracotta Warriorsshould venture around the city to see its impressive citywalls, Big and Small Wild Goose Pagodas and theMuslim Quarter, with its Great Mosque. Chinas capitalfor centuries, it was the starting point for the Silk Road.

water townsJust inland from Shanghai are a number of historicwater towns often missed by visitors. They includehistoric Suzhou on the 1,500-year-old Grand Canal,famed for its many beautiful gardens, and quaint townssuch as Tongli where a former primary school nowhouses a tasteful sex museum! plus Wuxi andHangzhou, regarded as the queen of them all.

In south-west China, the jagged limestone karst peakscenery around Guilin is a must-see. This area also hasmany caves with breathtaking rock formations, includingGuilins famed Reed Flute Cave. The karsts are bestviewed on a half-day cruise along the Li River to formerhippy hang-out, Yangshuo.

Take a side trip from Guilin to visit the mountain-topDragons Backbone rice terraces in Longsheng. You canstay overnight in guest houses operated by the localZhuang people in mountain villages such as PingAnafter a climb or sedan chair ride up precipitous paths.The area is also home to the Red Yao women, who boastthe longest hair in China.

Chinas most famous ambassador, the giant panda, isbest seen in Chengdu in Sichuan province, which has abreeding and research centre. The devastating 2008earthquake decimated parts of Sichuan including themountain preserve at Wolong, where I viewed 16 playfullittle cubs in their natural environment. The survivingpandas have been moved to other centres.

Chengdu is Chinas snack food capital and has moreteahouses than anywhere else in China. It is the home ofthe wonderfully-colourful Sichuan Opera, with its ornatecostumes and mask-changers, and the bizarre trade ofear-cleaning. There are nearly 400 professional earcleaners, who use a selection of instruments to dig outaccumulated wax even while you watch opera. Ticklishrather than unpleasant, it costs around 3.50.



China tips" China is vast, so if you are planning to

travel around the country, allow enoughtime for travel and dont try to cram intoo much.

" To the Chinese, drinking is sociable, soconstant toasts punctuate meals. You mustalso knock it back in one go, afterexchanging Gambay salutations.

" Never wear a green hat in China it is apublic statement that you are cheating onyour partner.

" Avoid travel during Chinas Golden

Weeks Chinese New Year, also calledSpring Festival, and after National Day inearly October. Also around May 1.Everyone travels during those periods.

" Children will often stare at Westerners,especially in rural areas. Foreigners arealso often referred to as Big Nose,because theirs are generally much larger.

" Do not sit until invited to by your host atmeals, who will generally choose who toinvite to sit either side.

" Never eat your plates clean. Your hosts orthe restaurant will think you are stillhungry and serve more.

Be carefulwhat youwish for inChina

! Mosuo girl rowing on LuguLake in Yunnan province

! Old manin Shanghai

! Dragons Backbonerice terraces in Guangxi

Days out from Chengdu can take in the giant carvedstone Buddha at Leshan, nearby holy Buddhist mountainEmeishan and the worlds first irrigation scheme atDujiangyan.

In northern Sichuan, another panda reserve areaencompasses Jiuzhaigou Valley, sometimes called NineVillages Valley, for the traditional Tibetan villages whichdot the exquisitely-beautiful World Heritage Site land-scape. Vivid greens contrast azure-blue lakes andmilky-white waterfalls.

elephantsNeighbouring Yunnan is a province of amazing naturaland cultural contrasts, with 26 of Chinas 55 minoritygroups and settings from elephants and tropical rainfor-est in the southern Xishuangbanna region to toweringsnow-capped mountains in the Tibetan-influenced north.The town of Zhongdian has been renamed Shangri-Laand is claimed to be the setting for the fabled paradise inJames Hiltons book, Lost Horizons. Nearby is theimposing gold-roofed Songzanlin Monastery.

Locals dance in circles around a bonfire in Zhong-dians main square, close to a giant bronze prayer wheel.Similar dances are performed by the matriarchal Mosuominority people at Lugu Lake, which borders Sichuanand on which men and girls in traditional costume rowvisitors in dugout boats. It could almost be Peru.

It is a five-hour drive from Lijiang, where the OldTown is full of winding, cobbled alleyways lined byquaint wooden houses and streams. At night, lanternsreflect in the streams and candles float along the swiftly-flowing water. You can also listen to lo