CONTENTS
Introduction
ABriefHistoryoftheAmericanCocktail
ToolsandTechniques
Light,Bright,andRefreshing
BigandBoozy
Sweet,Creamy,andDesserty
MetricConversionsandEquivalents
Acknowledgments
Index
INTRODUCTION
WhenIsetouttowriteabookonTexascocktailsandspirits,itwasnotimmediatelyapparentwhereIshouldbegin.UnlikeKentucky,wedonthaveanindigenousspiritthatdefinesus.UnlikeNewYork,wedonthaveanyancienttavernswheretheFoundingFathersmighthavewateredtheirtroops.Wedonthaveanuninterruptedtietothecocktailspast,likeNewOrleans,andourmoderncocktailbarsarestilltoonewtohaveestablishedaregionalstyleoftheirown.Tragically,ournationalbeerLoneStarisheadquarteredinCaliforniaandourfavoritecocktail,theMargarita,mostlikelywasntinventedhere.
So,wheredowestart?
Regionallyspeaking,Texasisamelting-potstate.WeareSouthern,butnotdeeplyso.Itisasouthwesternstate,butnotallchile-peppers-and-Navajo-rugslikeNewMexico.AllofthoseLouisianaexpatsslippingacrosstheSabineRiverhavelefttheirmarkonourcuisineandourdrinkinghabits,especiallyaroundHoustonandpartseast.Mostimportant,werehugelyinfluencedbyourneighborstothesouth.TexascuisineisinextricablylinkedtothetraditionsofthemillionsofMexicans,MexicanAmericans,andTejanoswhopopulatethestate,whohavealwayspopulatedthestate.(Recallthattheborderusedtobelocatedseveralhundredmilestothenorth,andthatoneoftheproverbialsixflagsthatflewoverTexasisthatofMexico.)Wehaveaveryvisibleandreveredruralheritage,andyetourmoderncities(includingsixofthelargesttwentyintheUnitedStates)attractpeoplefromacrossthecountry,andfromaroundtheworld.
Ihavetriedtohonorallofthoseinfluenceshere.
Imabigbelieverinthelocalfoodcommunity.Althoughwehavetheluxuryasmodernhumanstoforceouragendaonthefoodsupplyandobtainanythingwewantatanytimeofyear,Idontrecommendit.AlocalwatermelonatthepeakofseasonisathingofincomparablebeautyintheheatofanAugustsun,nothingismorerefreshing,especiallyinaWatermelonMojito.Texasgrapefruits,eruptingwithjuicysweetness,willputtoshameanyout-of-stategrapefruit.Weshouldrejoiceinthat,andwhentheyregone,theyregoneuntilnextseason,givingussomethingtolookforwardto.
Texasisfortunatetohavevirtuallyyear-roundgrowingseasons,andwithafewexceptionswecangrowjustaboutanythinghere.ThroughoutthebookIhavehighlightedagriculturalproductsthatthriveinTexas,especiallythosethatarenativeoradaptive.Naturetellsuswhatshewantsustoeat(ordrink!)andwhen,ifweonlylisten.
ThankstothetrailblazingeffortsofTitoBeveridgeandthosewhohavefollowedinhisfootsteps,wehavealocalspiritsindustrytorallyaround.InthisbookyouwillmeetTito;goonapicnicwiththefirstladydistillerinTexas,PaulaAngerstein;andbeholdthemajesticbeardofWacowhiskeydistillerChipTate.
Therecipesinthisbookaremeanttobesimpleenoughthatmostpeoplecanmakethemwitharelativelybasichomebarandafewtools.TherearerecipesfromanumberofprominentTexasbartenders,suchasAustinsBillNorris,andHoustonsBobbyHeugel.Someofthesearesimple,andsomearemoremixological,buttheyallrepresentwhatTexasbartendersaremakingatthisjunctureintime.Ihavealsoincludedanumberofmyfavoriteclassiccocktails;formanyoftheseIoffersimplevariationsthatincludelocalproduceorflavors,suchastheFigDaiquiri.
Inmanyfamilies,culinaryindoctrinationofthenextgenerationstartsatayoungage.Irecallmakingfriedpiesandstampingcookiesinmygrandmotherskitchenasachild.Theever-presentFryDaddyonhercounternodoubtcontributedtomypresent-dayobsessionwithchickenwings.UnfortunatelyshedidnotteachmehowtomakeaMartini.Likemostyoungpeople,Ilearnedhowtoimbibefrompeoplewhodidntknowwhattheyweredoing.IrememberthefirstdrinkIlearnedhowtoorderinabaritwasaCapeCod.Beforethat,thefirstcocktailIeverlearnedtomakeincludedtheF-wordinitsnameandacanoffrozengrapejuiceinitsrecipe.(Forallofoursake,neitherofthesetreasuresisincludedinthisbook.)
Theprocessoflearninghowtodrinklikeanadultissooftenaself-guidedone.Thisbookisbynomeansacompleteeducation.ButIhopeyouwillapproachitwiththesamecuriosityandsenseofhumorwithwhichweapproachmixinganddrinkingdrinksatTipsyManor.
OntheOrganizationoftheRecipes
Somecocktailbooksareorganizedalphabetically,andsomeareorganizedbythebasespiritofthecocktail.Itwasmygoaltoorganizetherecipesbythewaypeopleactuallydrinkthinkingthatmostpeopledontgetacravingjustforaspecificspirit,butforacocktailthatiscoolandrefreshing,orpotentandbold,beitmadefromgin,whiskey,ortequila.Therecipesinthisbookareorganizedbythestyleandpersonalityofthedrink.TheLight,Bright,andRefreshingdrinksarethethirst-quenchersforourhot
summerseason.Big&Boozyrecipesareforspirit-driven,higher-octanecocktailstobeenjoyedwhentheheatrecedesandthesungoesdown.Sweet,Creamy&Dessertydrinkswillsatisfyyoursweettooth.Aswithallrecipes,thesearemeanttobeguidelinesandnotetched-in-stonerules.Everypalateisdifferent,andeveryingredientisdifferentespeciallywhenyouredealingwithfreshseasonalproduce.Irecommendthatyoufollowtherecipefirst,tastethecocktail,andadjusttoyourliking.Eachrecipemakesonecocktailunlessotherwisenoted.
Wheretheoriginofadrinkisknown,orifthereisaparticularinspirationorinfluenceforadrink,Ihaveattemptedtostateit.Thehistoryofcocktailsandspiritsisbyitsnatureafuzzyone,andanyomissionormisinterpretationisunintentional.
ABriefHistory
oftheAmericanCocktail
Themixingofdrinksdatesbacktotimeimmemorial,withrecipesinallmannerofancienttextsfordrinkstocurewhatailsyou.Thehistoryofthecocktail,bycontrast,iscomparativelymodern,anddistinctlyAmerican.Ourcolonialforebearscametotheseshoreswithplentyofintoxicatingcargo,butonlyrudimentaryideasformixeddrinkslightlyalcoholicdrinkssuchassyllabubs,caudles,andflipsthatwererichincaloriesfromeggsandmilk.Punchwasanoteworthyexceptionandreignedsupremeoverthepre-cocktails.Withinonehundredyearsofthenationsfounding,however,awildlyinnovative,distinctlyAmericancocktailcuisinewouldemergeandbegintobeexportedtopointsfarandwideanalcoholicambassadorfromthefledglingUnitedStates.
Weareonceagaininagoldenageofthecocktail,withTexascitiesfinallycatchingupwithourcoastalcounterpartsinthemixologicalartseventhepunchbowlhasbeendislodgedfromthetopshelf,dustedoff,andreturnedtoitsrightfulplaceonthebar.Aswepayhomagetothecontemporaryrenaissanceofartisanalbeverages,letusfirsttakeasurveyofthecocktailsmodernhistory.
IncolonialAmerica,theideaoftheindividualdrinkhadnotyettakenhold.Communaldrinkingwasthenorm,punchwasoftendrunkstraightfromthebowl,andtoastingtohealthwaswidespread.Thosewerebibuloustimes,withpercapitaconsumptionmanytimeshigherthanitistoday.Notonlywasituncommon(evenunhealthy)todrinkstraightwater,itwasconsideredpitiablebysomecommentators.Muchcommunityactivitycenteredaroundthetavern,andthetaverncenteredaroundthepunchbowl.Tothemoderneye,oneofthefirstthingswenoticewhenlookingatengravingsoftheseoldbarsisthatthereisnobarcustomerssataroundtables,facingoneanother.Theydidnotsitatalongcounterfacingthebartender,becausethatpersonhadnotyetemergedasaprofessionaldistinctfromthemultifacetedtavernkeeperofyore.
Astheyoungnationbegantoindustrializeandurbanizeinthenineteenthcentury,drinkinghabitslikewiseevolved.Itwasnotunusualforapprenticesandmastersworkinginsmallshopstogothroughmuchoftheirdayundersomekindofmildinebriation.Alcoholwasagoodsourceofcaloriesfermentationanddistillationareaboveallelseameansofpreservinggrainandfruit.Likewise,beforetheadventofmodernpurificationtechniques,alcoholwasaddedtowaterforitsantibacterialqualities.Thisallchangedasthefactorysystemdeveloped.Whereasafewmencansafelysitinaworkshopmakingsaddlesundertheinfluence,thegamechangeswhenhundredsorthousandsofpeoplehavetoworkincloseproximity,aroundexpensive(anddangerous)manufacturingequipment.ItisnocoincidencethatitwasnotjustreligionistswhowerethemostvocalproponentsofProhibition,butalsoindustrialistssuchasJohnD.Rockefeller.
Theevolutionofthecommercialicetradewasalsoamajorcontributortotheemergenceofcocktailsandprofessionalbartenders.Whereasicehadpreviouslybeenavailableasaluxuryforthewealthy,thedevelopmentofsophisticatedharvesting,storage,andtransportationtechniquesbyFredericktheIceKingTudorenabledthedemocratizationandspreadofice.Cutinwinterfromnorthernponds,lakes,andrivers,hugeblocksoficewereshippedininsulatedcargovesselstoportsasfarawayasNewOrleans,Havana,andCalcutta.Newtoolsandtechniquesweredevelopedtoincorporateiceintodrinks,andwiththemcountlessrecipes,manyofwhichwerecollectedinthefirstknowndrinksbooktobepublishedintheUnitedStates,TheBar-TendersGuide(1862),byJerryThomas.Theageofthecocktailbartenderwasborn,andmanyofthemoderntoolsandmajorrecipesthatareinusetodayweredevelopedbytheclosingdecadesofthenineteenthcentury.
However,thecocktailpartydidntlastlongastheWomensChristianTemperanceUnion(WCTU),thelargestandmostpowerfulwomensorganizationofitstime,advocatedfortemperance,notcompleteabstinencemoderation,notabolition.Buttemperanceevolvedintoafull-onprohibitionmovementwiththeemergenceofsuchsingle-issuepartiesastheAnti-SaloonLeague.TheASLwassoeffectiveatmakingituntenableforapoliticiantobepubliclywetthatbothmajorpoliticalpartiesaddedProhibitiontotheirrespectiveplatformsby1918.TheEighteenthAmendmentwasratifiedbythestatesonJanuary16,1919,andwentintoeffectthefollowingyear,thusbeginningthethirteen-yeardroughtknowneuphemisticallyastheNobleExperiment.
Prohibitionlargelyfailedatitsmainobjectiveofdryingoutthenation.Itgaveamammothboosttoorganizedcrimeandmadecriminalsoutofordinarycitizens.WhereasProhibitionwasamonolithic,completeeffortthatwasnationalinscope,repealwastheopposite:piecemeal,fractional,andhyperlocalizedinscope.TheTwenty-firstAmendmentthrewthedecisiontothestates,manyofwhichinturnpassedtheresponsibilityontocounties,cities,andevenjustice-of-the-peaceprecinctshencetheincrediblepatchworkquiltofliquorregulationsthatresultindifferentdegreesofwetvirtuallyeveryplaceyougo.TheentirestateofMississippiwasbonedryuntil1966.ManyreaderswillrememberwhenyoucouldntbuyliquorbythedrinkinTexas,andasof2012thedenizensofTylerstillhavetoleavethecitylimitstobuyabottleoneofthemanylingeringeffectsofProhibition.
ThemiddledecadesofthetwentiethcenturywereforthemostpartanunfortunatetimeforAmericancocktailmixology,theprofessionemergingfromProhibitioninastateonemightpredictitwouldbein,havingbeenforcedunderground,unabletoevolveforoveradecade.Wewentfromexportingourideasandtraditionsaboutcocktailstoexportingtheverytalent,asprofessionalbarmensoughtwetterpasturesabroad.Othersleftthebusinessentirely,orcontinuedtopracticethecraftinillegalspeakeasies,workingwithwhateveringredientstheycouldgetholdof.
Oneexceptiontothegeneralmalaiseofmid-centurymixologywasthetikimovement.TikiwasagloriouspasticheoftropicalandAsiandesignaestheticsconjuredbyHollywood,pioneeredbysuchcolorfulcharactersasDontheBeachcomberandTraderVicBergeron.Thetikibarsofferedacuisineofcocktailsbasedontropicalflavors,butbuiltinaclassicalfashionwithbalanceandcomplexityinmind,andpractitionersoftheartweremassivelysuccessful.Inthe1930s,theearlytikibarsandrestaurantsofferedaTechnicolorculinaryfantasiaagainsttheblack-and-whitebackdropoftherecentDepression;adecadelater,theyofferedsolacetothesoulsofwearysoldiersandprovidedanescapetocitizens.WithcountlesssoldiersreturningfromthePacifictheater,andwiththepopularizationofHawaiiantourism(andeventualstatehood),anincreasedinterestintheSouthPacificmanifesteditselfacrossthemiddlebrowcultureoftheday.AmericanshadnowbeenexposedtotheallureoftheOrient,andPolynesianPoptookthecountrybystorm.WhatstartedinthebackyardofHollywoodinthe1930shadspreadbythe1950ssuchthatonecouldescapetothetropicsinjustaboutanycityinAmericaeverythingfromshoppingmallstohomedecorsoonbenefitedfromatouchoftheislands.
Whereastikipalacesprovidedthemostflamboyantmeansofescape,themostcommonsanctuarywasthehomeitself.AsElaineTylerMaywritesinHomewardBound,Thehomeseemedtoofferasecureprivatenestremovedfromthedangersoftheoutsideworld.Seekingrespitefromthedinofwar,thedeprivationoftheDepression,andthechaosofcrowdedcities,Americansflockedtothecountrysidetopopulateitwithsuburbs.Americaflexeditsindustrialmightinamind-bogglingcollusionofdevelopersandhomebuilders,automobilemanufacturers,tiremakers,androad-buildingcontractors,allsupportedbygovernmentwillandtheGIBill.Inashorttime,suburbanizationforeverchangedtheAmericanlandscape,anditalsochangedthewaywedrink.
AsAmericansstrivedtoescapethechaosofthecityforthecalmofthesuburbs,ourdrinkinghabitschanged.Withouttheconvenienceofthecornertavernorneighborhoodpub,wesawtheriseofthehomebartenderandanexplosionofgearcateringtowardthatemergingmarket.WhereascocktailmanualsfrombeforeProhibitionweresparseguidebooksforworkingprofessionals,thosethatemergedafterwardwerelushwithdetaileddescriptionsandimages.TedSauciersBottomsUp(1951)featuredpinupgalsfromthebrushesofAmericastopcommercialillustrators;EsquiremagazinesHandbookforHosts(1949)offerednotjustanelaborateselectionofcocktailrecipesbutalsomeat-carvingtips,jokes,toasts,and
rulesforcanastaandbridge.
Atthesametimeasthesenewbackyardbonsvivantsemerge,so,too,didtheperfectspiritforthosewithrudimentarydrink-makingskills.IntheearlyhistoryofAmericandrink,vodkawaseitheranonentityorwhatmightbeconsideredanethnicspecialty,anodditysuchasslivovitzorrompopeconsumednotbythemassesbutonlybyisolateddemographicgroups.Sounknownwasvodka,intheearlyyearsSmirnoffmarketeditaswhitewhiskey,asawayofspeakingtothebrownspiritthatwasthedominanthoochinmid-centuryAmerica.Smirnoffsuseofpopularculturewasmasterfulthebiggeststarsofthedayappearedintheirads,andJamesBondsmethodoforderingthevodkamartiniisnodoubtthemostfamouscocktailorderofalltime.
Vodkaflourishedbythe1960sandoutpacedginasthemost-consumedclearspiritintheUnitedStates;tenyearslateritwouldeclipsebourbonasbest-sellingspirit,apositionthatitstillholdstoday.Injustafewshortdecades,vodkaforeverchangedthetrajectoryofAmericancocktailmixology.Sincevodkasneutralprofiletakesontheflavorofwhateveritismixedwith,thecoldwareracocktailsweresimpletomakeandeasytodrinktheperfectbeveragecomponenttoanationwhosefoodsystemhadbecomelargelyindustrializedandpalatebland.
Thelandscapeforbeveragesremainedbleakthroughoutthe1970sand80s,butduringthistime,thefoundationwasbeinglaidforwhatultimatelywouldresultinthecocktailandspiritrenaissancewhosethroeswecurrentlyoccupy.Whatisgoodforthekitchenisgoodforthebar,andsotheworkofnaturalfoodspioneerssuchasAliceWatershelpedcreatethespaceinwhichartisanalbeverageproducerswouldlaterflourish.Inthelate1980sand1990s,afewAmericanbartenders,notablyNewYorksDaleDeGroff,startedtoexcavatetraditionalrecipesandtechniquesthathadlargelydisappearedfromthemainstreamculture.
ThecocktailhasonceagainregainedadistinguishedplaceintheAmericanculinaryconversation.TheesteemedJamesBeardFoundationnowconfersitshonorsupontoptalentsnotjustinthekitchenbutalsobehindthebar.Anditisnowdifficulttofindanewchef-drivenrestaurantofanyworththathasnotgivenseriousconsiderationtoitscocktailmenu.
IfthenarrativeofAmericancocktailsandspiritshasmostlybeentoldfromacoastalperspective,Texasisfinallygettingitsdue.CocktailsandcocktailculturehavetraveledinwardfromsuchmarketsasSanFrancisco,Portland,andNewYorktosuchcitiesasAustinandSanAntonio;inthenextwavewewillseethesepeopleandconceptsexpandoutwardfromurbancorestothesuburbs.TwoofmyfavoritecocktaildensthathaveopenedinrecentyearsareWhiskeyCake(Plano)and400Rabbits(CircleC,Austin);bothoperatenotinhip,restoredwarehousedistrictsbutinsuburbanstripmalls.
Inasmuchasconsumerenthusiasmforcocktailshasskyrocketedinrecentyears,therehasalsobeenincreasedsophisticationontheproductionside.Moreartisanaldistillatesarenowontheshelfthanatanypointinmodernmemory.Craftdistillingisinfullbloom,withsmall-scaledistilleriesmakinganimpactforthefirsttimesincebeforeProhibition(thereareseveraldozenlicenseddistilleriesinTexas,upfromzerointhemid-1990s,whenTitoBeveridgestarteddistillinghislocalvodka).Craftbrewing,whichhadexperiencedaboominTexasinthe1990s,isgoingthroughanothergrowthspurtinAustin,withnearlyadozennewbreweriescomingonlineinasmanymonths.Almosteightyyearsafteritsrepeal,Prohibitioncontinuestounravel,withlocaloptionelectionsmakingmoreandmorecommunitiessafeforalcohol.Theranksofcocktailaficionados,bothamateurandprofessional,continuetoswellTexas,onceacocktailunderdog,nowrepresentsoneofthelargestsingle-statedelegationstoTalesoftheCocktail,theinternationalcocktailfestivalheldinNewOrleanseachsummer.Neveronetobeashrinkingviolet,Texasisfinallyonthemixologymap.
glasswareguide
Althoughglasswareisoftenanafterthoughttomanypeoplescocktailpreparation,itsimportantnottofallintothistrap.Theglassisthecostumeinwhichyourcocktailperformsyoumustmakesurethatyourdrinksareproperlywardrobed.
CocktailglassThisV-shapedglassiscommonlyreferredtoasaMartiniglass,andhasbeenaniconicsymbolofliquidmerrimentsinceatleastthemiddleofthetwentiethcentury.Unfortunately,theglasshaslostitswayoverthelastseveraldecades,asithasballoonedinsizetoaccommodateallmanneroffruitytinidrinksthatbearnoresemblancetotheclassicMartini.Aproperlysizedcocktailglassshouldbemadeofthinglasscrystalisnicewithouttherollededgearoundtherim,anditshouldholdnotmorethan6ouncesofliquid.Makesuretheglassisclear,soastoshowoffthebeautifulcocktailyouvecrafted.
HighballAhighballglassstraightsidedandcontaining10to12ouncesisgreatforgivinganupscalefeeltosimpleone-plus-onedrinkssuchasBourbon&Ginger.
CollinsglassLikeastretched-outhighballglass,aCollinsglassisperfectforitseponymouscocktailaswellasforMojitos,swizzles,andallmanneroftall,elegantdrinks.Holds12to14ounces.
CoupeThisround-bottomed,stemmedglassisgreatforclassicallyproportionedcocktails,especiallybigandboozynumbers.Coupesarealsoperfectlysuitedfoeggandeggwhitedrinks.Theyshouldaccommodateabout4ouncesofliquid.
RocksorOldFashionedglassAnOldFashionedglassshouldbeshort,squatty,andhaveafat,heavybasethatrequiresalittlebitofmuscletolift.Althoughitshouldbesizedat6to8ounces,itwillgenerallybeonlypartiallyfilled,witheitherashotofboozeontherocks,orwiththeglasssnamesakecocktail.
DoubleOldFashionedglassAsitsnameimplies,thisisagiantrocksglass,thoughperhapsnotquitetwiceasbigat10to12ounces.Itsgreatforgivingagrandiosefeeltoapourofneatspiritsorspiritsonagiantrock.ThedoubleOldFashionedglassisalsoperfectlysizedforfull-figurediceddrinkssuchastheTexasMaiTaiandElPepino.
JulepcupThissmallpewter,silver-plated,orsterlingsilvercupisastapleoftheSouthernsideboard.Themetalactsasaconductor,andthecupfrostsupasheatisdrawnoutofthewhiskeyandthejulepcools.Atypicaljulepcupholdsabout10ouncesofliquid.Inapinch,ahighballordoubleOldFashionedglassisperfectlysuitableformakingMintJulepsathomeajulepinthewrongglassisbetterthannojulepatall,sodontdespair.
PintglassApintglass,asitsnameimplies,shouldhold16ounces.Generally,pintglassesdonthavemuchuseintheactualserviceofcocktails,butareanessentialcomponentoftheBostonshaker.
Punchcup/bowlPunchbowlsareindispensibleforentertainingwithease,buttheydonthavetobecomplicated.Whetheryoupickyoursupatathriftstoreoramodernhomedecorboutique,dontbeshywithit.Ifyouhavefourpeople,thatisenoughtoconstituteapunchpartyinmybookyoudonthavetosaveitfortheholidayparty.
SnailOneofthehallmarksofthetikieraisthatincreatingtheirPolynesianfantasia,thetikipioneerscompletelyupendedtheglasswareprotocolofthecocktailbar.NolongerwoulditsufficetohavehighballsandOldFashionedandcocktailglasses.Thetikiloungeinventedawholenewvernacularthatincludedvolcanobowls,scorpionbowls,FogCuttermugs,andrumbarrelsallmadefromceramic.Ifyoutrollsecondhandstoresandonlineauctions,youcancomeupwithatreasuretroveoftikigear.Ialsoencourageyoutouseyourimaginationhereifitlookslikeitwantstoholdagianttropicalbeverage,goallin.Whetheritholdshalfapintorhalfagallon,makeitatiki.
PreppingGlassforServiceGlasswareshouldalwaysbepolishedcleanbeforeservice.Inmostinstancesitisappropriatetochilltheglass,toachievemaximumcoldnessforthecocktail.Thefreezeristheidealplacetochillaglass.Ifyoulackfreezercapacity,youcanchillaglassbyfillingitwithiceandwaterforaminutebeforepreparingthecocktail.
MeetYourGear
AlthoughIhavefoundmyselfincircumstancesthatrequiredmixingdrinksinthebottomofavase,usingaTabascobottleasamuddler,andstrainingtheresultingmasterpiecewithsomekindofundergarment,thereisnosubstituteforhavingthepropertools.Sometoolsareessential,someareoptional,andsomeareridiculous.Ihavementionedallherebutmadeanefforttosortthemout,atleastinmymind,inorderofimportance.Thegoodnewsisthatyoucanpurchasebasicversionsofmostoftheessentialtoolsatarestaurantsupplystoreorkitchenspecialtyretailereverythingyouneedtogetstartedwillrangebetweenthirtyandfiftydollars.Andyouhavetherestofyourlifetocollectalltheotherstuffthatyoudontneedbutcantlivewithout.
EssentialBarKit
ShakeroBostonshakerAninexpensiveandpracticaloption,theBostonshakerconsistsofapint-sizemixingglassandshakertin.Nicebecausethepartsareinterchangeablejustaboutanypintglassorshakertinwillworkwithanotherpintglassormixingtin.
oMetalonmetalAvariationonaBostonshaker,butmadewithtwometaltinsinsteadofmetalandglass.Astandardsetgenerallyconsistsofapairofshakertinssized18and28ounces.
oCobblerThethree-piecevarietyconsistsofabase,atopwithabuilt-instrainer,andacap.These
stylishshakersareverypopularinEuropeanandJapanesebars,lesssointheUnitedStates.AParisianshakerlookssimilartoacobblershaker,thoughitconsistsofonlytwopiecesanddoesnothaveabuilt-instrainer.
HawthornestrainerUsedforstrainingshakencocktailsfromashakertin.Thetighterthespring,thebetterthestrainingaction.
JulepstrainerUsedforstrainingstirredcocktailsfromamixingglass.
BarspoonForstirringcocktailsandfetchinggarnishesfromthejar.
JiggersForensuringconsistentresults,accuratepoursareessential.
MuddlerExpressingjuicefromcitrusfruitsorberries,orbruisingherbs.
ParingknifeEssentialforcuttingfruitandvegetablegarnishes.
CuttingboardPlasticboardsarenicebecausetheycangothroughthedishwasher.Ontheotherhand,woodenboardsarepretty,especiallytheverydurableonesmadefromTexasmesquite.
JuicesqueezerThehandheldcitrussqueezerisadequateforhomeuse;astandmodelisnecessaryforprofessionalapplications.
Fine-meshstrainerCatchesbitsoffruitorshardsoficethatmightcloudorclutteryourupcocktail.
ChannelknifeForpullinglongtwistsofcitrusfruitrinds.TheshallowertheV,thelesspithyouwillhaveinyourcocktail.
VegetablepeelerForremovingawidestripofcitruszest,whatissometimescalledalongitudinalorlatitudinalzestgarnish.
MatchesorlighterForflamingacitruszest,orlightingafriendsorcustomerscigarorcigarette.
WinetoolForcuttingfoilandremovingcorksfromwinebottles.
BarKit2.0
AllofthecomponentsofEssentialBarKitplus:
NutmeggraterForgratingnutmegorcinnamonontotikiandholidaydrinks.
TongsForhandlinggarnisheswithouttouchingthem.
MixingglasswithspoutAlthoughabasicpintglasswillgetthejobdone,thereisnothingsexierthanusinganetchedmixingglasswithaspout,asourcolleaguesdowaaaayacrossthepond(inJapan).
iSisodasiphonForcarbonatingwatertospritzintoacocktail,orforevencarbonatingthecocktailitself.
LewisbagandwoodenmalletTomakecrushedice.
Super-King-SizeDeluxeBarKitAtomizerFordispensingblastsofspiritsorbitterstoembellishthetopofadrinkwithanaromaticand/orvisualfinishsuchasbitters,absinthe,ormezcal.Foranextraflourish,youcanignitethespray,thoughyoumayhavetoincreasetheproofoftheliquidintheatomizerwithahigher-proofspirit(suchascask-strengthwhiskeyorhigh-proofrum)togetittoignite.Thistechniqueisespeciallyeffectivewhengarnishinganeggwhitecocktail.Justbesureyoudontdothisinthedirectionofanypeopleorfurniturethatmaybeinjuredbyflamingliquid;andkeepafireextinguisherhandy.Theatomizerisalsoaneffectivewaytoseasonaglass,aswhenyouseasonaSazeracglasswithabsinthe.Mistoisapreferredbrand(beforetheywererepurposedbycocktailbartenders,atomizersweremorecommonlyusedtosprayoliveoil).
Punchbowlandladle
Absinthefountain,glasses,andspoons
iSiwhippedcreamcanisterFormakingspecialtyfoamsforcocktails.
ChampagnestoppersForpreservingleftoverbubbly.
MicroplaneForgratingcitruszest.
BlueBlazermugsFormakingtheeponymousflamingdrinkthatmustbevolleyedbackandforthbetweentwosilvermugs,whileonfire.
SiliconeicetraysFormakinglargeorspecializedpiecesofice.
CigarcutterFortheconvenienceofyourcigar-smokingguestorcustomer.
Techniques
GarnishesThefunctionofagarnishismanifold.Firstandforemost,agarnishshouldbeautifythedrink.Likeawindowwithoutcurtains,agarnishlesscocktaillooksrathernaked.Second,thegarnishshouldcontributetotheflavorofthedrink.Itcaneitherdrawfromorcomplementflavorsalreadypresentinadrink,orprovidecontrastinapleasingway.Third,agarnishcontributesaromatothecocktailsothatevenbeforeyoutakethefirstsip,youhaveananticipationofwhatthedrinkisgoingtotastelike.
HerbsAlwaysusefreshherbs;itisokaytoevenkeepthemattachedtotheplantifyouhavethespace.Storethemincoolwaterorwrappedinamoisttowelintherefrigeratortoextendshelflife.Themostattractivesprigsandupperleavesshouldbeusedforgarnishes.Thelessbeauteousonescanstillbeusedtomakesyrups,orformuddling.Toopenupherbsfullaroma,givethemaquickspankbyclappingthemoncebetweenyourhands.
CitrusGarnishes:WholeFruitItisimportanttocutgarnishesasclosetoserviceaspossibletopreventtheirdryingoutandturningbrown.
oWheelsCitruswheelsarelatitudinalslicesofcitrusfruit,usuallylemonsandoranges.
oWedgesCitruswedgesareusedbothformuddlingatthebottomofadrinkandforgarnishingthetopofthedrink.
CitrusGarnishes:ExpressedCitrusPeelCitrus-zestgarnishesenhancethebeauty,aroma,andflavorofacocktailwithoutchangingthebalanceofthedrink,whichisaliabilitywithwhole-fruitgarnishes.Whenusingcitruspeels,yourgoalistoremovetheouterzestwithoutcapturingthebitterwhitepithintheprocess.Ifyouhavesteadyhands,aparingknifewilldothetrick.Althoughlessgraceful,agoodsharpveggiepeelerprovidesroughlythesameresults,moresafely.Ideally,positionthefruitnearthesurfaceoftheglassyouaregarnishing,makingsuretoaimthesprayofoilinthedirectionoftheglassasthebladecutsthroughthecitrusskin,itsendsoffaplumeoffragrantessentialoils.
oLemonpigtailTheclassicMartinigarnish,madebyrunningachannelknifearoundthelemon,andwrappingtheresultingtwistaroundabarspoonorotherobjecttotightenitscoils.
oCitrusstripUsingaparingknifeorveggiepeeler,takeoffastripofpeel,goinglongitudinallyfromonepoleofthefruittotheother.Theresultingtwistwillbeapproximatelythesizeandshapeofanadhesivebandageabout3/4inchwideby21/2incheslong,dependingonthesizeofthefruit.
oLemonororangecoinArounddiskofcitruspeelapproximatelythesizeofaquarter.
oCitrusequatorAsthenameimplies,acitrusequatorisapieceofpeelthatistakenfromthewaistofthefruit.ThesegarnishesaregreatforclassicCrustas,tiki-stylecocktails,anddrinksservedovercrushedice,astheycantakeuptheentirerimofaglass.
oFlamedcitruspeelPopularizedbyDaleDeGroff,thistechniqueinvolvesexpressingtheessentialoilofacitruspeelacrossaflame,thusgarnishingthesurfaceofthedrinkwithcaramelizedessentialoil(andprovidingabitofafireworksshow,whichisalwaysanicetouch).
Shaking,Stirring,Building,andSwizzling
ShakingandStirringThetwomostcommonmethodsforchillingacocktailarestirringandshaking.Wegenerallystircocktailswhentheyconsistonlyofspiritedingredientsliquors,liqueurs,bitters,fortifiedwines,andsoon.Whencitrus,muddledfruit,eggs,orcreamareinvolved,wealmostalways
shakethedrink.Formaximumcoldness(andshowmanship)itisagoodideatochillyourmixingglassesbeforeusingthem.Whetherstirringorshaking,itisimportanttorememberthatthesetechniquesservetwofunctions:First,tochill.Aproperlychilledcocktailmustbeverycold.Second,todilute.Dilutionisoftenviewedasabadthing,butwithacocktail,properdilutioniscriticalinashakenorstirredcocktail,theresultingbeveragewillgainanadditional25to30percentofvolumefromthemeltedice.Notenoughdilutionandyourdrinkistooboozy;toomuchanditsawaterymess.
oStirringStirringshouldpreferablybedoneinaclearglassmixingcontainersothatthepersonforwhomthedrinkisbeingmadecanbeholdthefullspectacle,whichisobscuredwhenyoustiradrinkinametalcontainer.Whenstirringwithlarge,coldice(suchasfromahomeicecubetrayorKOLD-DRAFTmachine),itisbesttomixinafewcrackedicecubes.Thiswillincreasethesurfaceareaoftheiceandthereforeincreasechillinganddilution.Alltoooften,astirredcocktailiseithernotcoldenough,notdiluteenough,orboth.Stirringallowsyoutochillanddiluteacocktailwithoutaffectingthedrinksclarity.Ifthetechniqueisexecutedproperly,thedrinkshouldpourinsilkythickribbonswithnoicechipsorbubbles.
oShakingShakingadrinkwillchillanddiluteitwiththeadditionalbenefitofagitatingitintoavigorousemulsion.Properlyshakendrinksshouldbelight,lively,andeffervescentwithaninfinitenumberoftinybubbles.
BuildingIfarecipesaystobuildacocktail,itreferstothepracticeofcraftingthedrinkdirectlyintheservingglass,asopposedtoinamixingglassorshakingtin.Thisisdonewithsimplehighballsandsomedrinksthataregoingtobeswizzled.
SwizzlingThetraditionalswizzlestickismadeofwoodandthoughthesearefortunatelyavailablenowthroughspecialtysuppliers,youcanaccomplishthebasictaskwithabarspoon.Submergetheswizzlestickpartwayintoyourbuiltcocktailandclaspbetweenthepalmsofyourhands.Movingyourpalmsbackandforthwillagitatetheswizzlestick,thuschilling,diluting,andinvigoratingyourcocktailintheprocess.
RollingSometimesIspecifythatthedrinkberolled.Thisinvolvespouringthecontentsofthedrink,plusice,backandforthafewtimesbetweentwomixingcontainers.ThistechniqueismostcommonlyusedwiththeBloodyMarybecausetheagitationofshakingsuchadrinkwouldgiveitanunpleasantlyfrothyhead.
MuddlingToooften,muddleddrinkssufferfrombeingoverlymuddled.Usethemuddlertoapplygentlepressuretoreleasearomaticsfromherbs;usealittlemorepressuretoreleasejuicefromcitruswedgesortocrushberries.Butdontoverdoit.
FinestrainingWhilepouringacocktailfromaBostonshakerintoacocktailglass,holdafine-meshstrainerbetweentheshakerandtheglass.Thiscatchesmuddledfruit,herbs,andotherparticlesthatyoudontwantcloudingupyourcocktail.
IceIdeally,cocktailiceshouldbeinbig,cold,drychunks,asthisallowsustochilladrinkaslongaspossiblebeforeitisoverlydiluted.Inreality,weareoftendealingwiththeicethatweweredealt;evenwithinferiorsmallweticetherearethingswecandotomaximizeitspotential.Alwaysstrainaway
anywaterthattheicemightbesittingin.Alwaysusefreshiceforeachdrinkyourestirringorshaking.Lastly,afterchillingadrink,alwayspourthedrinkoverfreshiceintheglassdontservetheusedicefromtheshakertin.Imagineiceashavingafiniteamountofchillingcapacitytogiveyou.Ifyouserveusedice,theicewillmeltbeforethedrinkerisdonewiththedrink,becauseithasalreadygivenupmostofitschill.
BigiceSometimessizereallydoesmatter,andwithiceitcandefinitelybetrue.Ifyouareadrinkerofwhiskeyontherocks,forexample,youknowthatoneortwolargeicecubesispreferabletoabunchofsmallonesbecausetheykeepyourwhiskeycoldwithoutoverlydilutingit.Certaincocktails,suchastheNegroni,lookfabulousoveroneortwogianticecubes.Thereisnowavarietyofinexpensivesiliconeicetraysforthispurpose.
CrushediceCrushediceisessentialforsuchdrinksastheMintJulep.ThebestwaytomakeitisusingaLewisbag.Fillthecanvasbagwithwholeiceandbeatitwithanicemallet,meattenderizer,heavymuddler,orrollingpinwhateveryouhavehandy.Ifyouneedtoholdcrushediceforanyamountoftime,storeitinaperforatedpanorcolandersothatmeltwatercanstrainoff.
PunchiceThepunchbowlisoneofthosesituationswherestandardicewilljustnotsuffice.Becausepunchsitsoutandisdrunkovertime,smallicewillmelttoofastdilutingthedrinktooquickly,andnotlastinglongenoughtokeepthepunchcold.Onlyaverylargeblockoficewillbothslowlydiluteandsteadilychillabowlofpunchovertime.Ifyouarefortunateenoughtohaveanicevendornearbywhowillsupplyyouwithblocksofice,thatisallwellandgood.Fortherestofus,itisnecessarytomanufactureitourselves.Thereareseveralwaystoaccomplishthis.Theeasiestistofillasiliconeloafpan,oraJell-Omold,withcoldwaterandfreezeitovernight.Thebeautyofthismethodisthatyoucanfreezesprigsofherbs,edibleflowers,orcitruswheelsintotheiceforbeautifuleffect.Youcanalsofillacleanpaperjuiceormilkcartonorplasticjugandplaceitinthefreezerovernight.Forservice,cutawaythecontainertorevealalarge,solidchunkofice.Acheatermethodifyouareinneedofalargechunkoficebuthaveforgottentodoitthenightbefore:Fillyourmoldwithstandardiceandthenfillwithwaterandplaceinthefreezer.Thiswillfreezeinacoupleofhoursasopposedtoovernight.Notideal,butwillgetthejobdone!
ACEOFSPADES
Thiscocktailcombinessomeofmyfavoriteearlysummerflavorsandisagreatreminderthattomatoesareinfactafruit.Blackberriesgivethecocktailastunningcolor,andthetomatobarelyperceptiblelendsitasupplemouthfeel.
5ripeblackberries
1smalltomatowedge,or1plumpcherrytomato
12ounceSimpleSyrup
1. 112ounces100%agavesilvertequila
12ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuiceLemontwist,forgarnish
Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddletheblackberries,tomato,andsimplesyrup.Addthetequilaandlemonjuiceandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Strainintoachilledcocktailglassorserveoverice.Garnishwiththelemontwist.
DAISYVERDE
ThisDaisyvariationcomesfromTexasbartenderAdamHarris.Thepineapplecaramelcametohimbyaccident.Intheprocessofmakingpineapplesyrup,hewalkedawayfromthestoveandforgotaboutit;bythetimehereturned,hissyruphadreducedtoaniceworkablecaramelthatplayednicelywiththebutterscotchnotesinthetequila.
1(1-inch)chunkpoblanopepper,plus1sliceforgarnish
34ouncePineappleCaramel(recipefollows)
2ouncesElTesororeposadotequila
12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuicePinchofsalt
1to2ouncescarbonatedwaterMuddlethepoblanoandpineapplecaramelinthebottomofamixingglass.Addthetequila,limejuice,andsaltandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Strainontofreshiceinarocksglassandtopwithaspritzofcarbonatedwater.Garnishwiththepoblanoslice.
PINEAPPLECARAMEL
1cuppineapplejuice
1cupsugar
Combinetheingredientsinamedium-sizesaucepanovermediumheatandbringtoasimmer.Reduceuntiltheconsistencyreachesthatofathincaramel.
ARTHURWATSONSBLOODYMARY
Fornearlyhalfacentury,notedTexasinteriordesignerArthurPopeWatsonlivedwithhispartner,BobGarrett,inaFrench-inspiredmansionknownonlyastheChateau,perchedonabluffoverlookingdowntownAustin.NowintheshadowoftheFrankErwinCenter,thehousewasbuiltinthe1850sandwasoriginallyownedbythesister-in-lawofJamesBowie.ArthurandBobplayedhosttopoliticos,moviestars,andawhoswhoofAustinsocietyasfamousasthepricelessworksofartwerethecocktails,especiallyArthursBloodyMary.
BeforevodkagainedprominenceintheUnitedStates,therewasawell-knowncocktailcalledtheRedSnapper,basicallyaginBloodyMary.GordonswasthehouseginattheChateau.Chilepequins,alsoknownasbirdpeppersfortheirpropensitytosproutupunderpowerlines,growwildlyaroundcentralTexasandwerewelcomedontheChateaugrounds.Muddlingexpressestheoilfromthesefierypeppers,givingthiscocktailitsmemorablekick.
2chilepequinpeppers
12teaspoonpreparedhorseradish2ouncesgin
4ouncestomatojuice12ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
14ounceWorcestershiresauce
2dashesofTabascosauce
1ouncebeefconsomm
12teaspoonSrirachaSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
Pinchofcelerysalt
Lemonwedge,forgarnish
Celerystick(withleaves),forgarnish
Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethechilepequinpepperswiththehorseradish.Addalltheremainingingredientsexceptthelemonandcelerysticks,andfilltheglasswithice.Rollthedrink,pouringitafewtimesbackandforthbetweenanothermixingglassorshakertintochill.(ShakingaBloodyMarycanyieldastrangelyunappealinglyfrothydrink.)Strainthecontentsontofreshiceinapintglass.Garnishwiththelemonwedgeandcelerystick.
BLUERIBBON
Ifyouhavemembersofyourpartywhohaventyetwarmeduptogin,thisspringcocktailwillchangetheirminds.HendricksaddscucumberandrosetothetypicalbotanicalmixofLondondrygin,makingitperfectlysuitedforgardencocktails.
14cupblueberries3freshbasilleaves
4freshmintleaves
1barspoonSimpleSyrup
112ouncesHendricksgin12ounceLuxardomaraschinoliqueur12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuiceDropoflemonbitters
Lemontwist,forgarnish
Muddletheblueberries,twoofthebasilleaves,andthemintandsimplesyrupinthebottomofamixingglass.Addthegin,maraschinoliqueur,limejuice,andbittersandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Fine-strainintoachilledcocktailglass.Garnishwiththelemontwistandremainingbasilleaf.
CAIPIRINHA
ThenationalcocktailofBrazil,Caipirinhatranslatestosomethinglikelittlecountrydrink,likeahillbillycousintotheDaiquiri.TheCaipirinhaismadewithcachaa(pronouncedka-sha-sa),arusticBraziliancanespiritthatissimilartorhumagricole.Thedrinkspreparationisuniqueinacoupleofways.Itismadebymuddlingthelimewedges,whichreleasesnotjustthejuicebutalsotheessentialoil
fromtheskinandasmallamountofbitternessfromthepith.Additionally,itisoneoftheonlydrinksthatisservedwiththeicewithwhichitwasshaken.
12ounceSimpleSyrup,or1heapingtablespoonsuperfinesugar(notpowderedsugar)1lime,cutinhalf,coreremoved,slicedthinly(seepicture)
212ouncescachaa
Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethesimplesyruporsugarwiththelimewedges.Addthecachaaandice.Givethedrinkaquickshakeofjustafewsecondstochill;adjustthesweetnesstoyourtaste.Transfertheentirecontentstoachilledrocksglass.
TechniqueTip:LimeWedges
Itseemstherearetwoprimaryschoolsofthoughtonhowtocutalimewedge.Thefirst,mostcommonmethodiswhatIcalltheGringoMethod.IntheGringoMethod,thelimeiscutinhalflongitudinally,andeachhemisphereiscutintothreeorfourwedges.(InavariationontheGringoMethod,thewholelimeiscutinhalfalongitsequator,andtheneachnorthsouthhemisphereiscutintoquarters.)TheothermethodIcalltheMexicanMethod,inwhichthefacesofthelimesarecutaway,leavingjustthecorebehind.Bothofthesemethodshavetheirmerits.TheGringowedgemakesforalovelygarnishwhenyoucutasmallnotchintheribandhangitontherimofaglass.(Thisisalsothepreferredwedgeshapeforthosewhodesiretosuckonalimewedgeaftershootingtequila.ItshouldbenotedthatI,havinggraduatedfromcollegebarsmanyyearsago,donotfallintothiscamp.SeeTequila.)Theproblem,however,iswiththatribitself.Inalime,muchofthefruitsbitternessresidesinthatribthatrunsdownthecenter.Ifyouregoingtobemuddlinglimewedges,aswithaCaipirinhaorMojito,itmightbebettertofollowtheMexicanmethodmorejuiceandlesspith.Regardlessofwhatmethodyoufollow,itisalmostalwaysadvisedtowaituntilyouneedthelimewedgetocutit,astheydontstorewell.Adried-out,brown-around-the-edgeslimewedgefailsbothatbeingsqueezedandatbeautifyingacocktail,thoughfartoooftenthisisthegarnishweget,exceptinthemoreforward-thinkingestablishments.
Gringocut
CANDELABRO
Piscoisagrapebrandy,generallyunaged,thatisclaimedbybothChileandPeruastheirnationalspirit.AlthoughbestknownasthebaseingredientforthePiscoSourcocktail,piscoisaversatilespiritthatcanbeusedinallmannerofdrinks.ThenameforthiscocktailwasnotinspiredbytheflamboyantpianistLiberace,whowasrarelywithouthiscandelabra;rather,byElCandelabro,anancientpetroglyphinthePeruvianAndes.Youmayneedtoadjusttheamountofsyrupdependingonhowsweetyourcantaloupeis.
112ouncespisco112ouncesfresh-pressedcantaloupejuice(ormuddle12cupdicedfreshcantaloupeintheglassbeforeshaking)12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuiceScant12ounceSimpleSyrup
12ounceCointreauorPaulasTexasOrange
Absinthe,forrinsingtheglass
Cucumberwheel,forgarnish
Combinethepisco,cantaloupejuice,limejuice,simplesyrup,andCointreauinamixingglasswithiceandshakevigorouslytochill.Rinseachilledcocktailglasswithabsinthe;strainthecocktailintotheseasonedglassandgarnishwiththecucumberwheel.
CANTALOUPE
Texascantaloupesareintheirpeakseasonrightintheheatofsummer.Whentheyareripe,theyarejuicy,sweet,andsofragrantyoucansmellripecantaloupethroughtheirskin.Throughthemagicofmodernagribusiness,cantaloupesarenowavailableyear-round,eveniftheirflavormaysuffer.Agreenorunderripecantaloupewillnotbesweetandjuicyforcocktailpurposes,sosweetnessmustbeadjustedtocompensate.
Foruseincocktails,cantaloupecaneitherbemuddledorjuiced.Ifyouremakingindividualcocktails,muddlingistheexpeditiousroute.However,whenmakingseveralorforagroup,itisbesttojuicethefruit.Apulpextractorjuiceristheeasiestwaytojuiceacantaloupe.Youmayalsouseablender:Trimandcutripecantaloupeandblendinablenderwiththesmallestamountofwaternecessarytokeepthecontentsmoving.Strainthroughafine-meshstrainertoremovethepulp.Allowthejuicetosettleandstrainoffanyfoamyportion.
SONORA
ChrisBostickisaTexasbartenderwhocuthisteethatAustinsfamousFondaSanMiguelrestaurantbeforegoingwesttoplyhistradeinLosAngeles.BackinTexas,oneofhisfavoritecocktailsistheSonora.Igrewupeatingcantaloupewithmygrandfather,whodcrackfreshblackpepperoveritbeforeweatethefreshfruit,heexplained.And,ofcourse,inTex-MexicoalotofpeopleeatitwithasqueezeofcitrusandMexicanchilepowders.Havinggrownupwithit,cantaloupetomeisaquintessentialpartofsummerrefreshmenthereincentralTexas.
12cupchoppedcantaloupe12ouncedemerarasyrup
2ouncesElTesoroplatatequila
12ounceGrandMarnier
1ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice
14teaspoonchiledearbolpowderEdiblemarigold,forgarnish
Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethecantaloupeanddemerarasyrup.Addthetequila,GrandMarnier,limejuice,andchiledearbolpowderandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Finelystrainintoachilledcoupeglass.Garnishwiththeediblemarigold.
ORANGELIQUEURS
Youdonthavetosleuththroughtoomanycocktailrecipesbeforetheinevitablequestionarisesofwhatthedifferenceisbetweenthevarioustypesoforangeliqueurs.Thecategoriesareatbestvague,thoughsomecharacteristicsareconstant:
CURAAO
TheseliqueursdatebacktotheageofDutchimperialism.TheDutchbecameproficientinproducingadistillateflavoredwithdriedorangepeelsfromtheDutchCaribbeanislandofCuraao.Curaaosareusuallybrandy-basedandmaybeblendedwithagedbrandyorcognacandflavoredwithorangeandotherspices,suchasvanilla,anise,andcoriander.TheproductthatmostresembleshistoriccuraaocomesfromFrenchcognachousePierreFerrand,whichproducesabrandy-baseddrycuraaothatisdistilledwithspicesandorangepeelsandblendedwithagedcognac.GrandMarnierandMarieBrizardareprominentcommercialbrands.Curaaosarebestsuitedforcocktailsmadewithagedspirits.
TRIPLESEC
Good-qualitytriplesecisgenerallymadefromaneutralgrainspiritorsugarbeetdistillate,asisthecasewithCointreau,themostfamousmemberofthiscategory.Therearenonalcoholictriplesecs,whichshouldbeavoided.Secmeansdry,anodddescriptorforaliqueur,thoughincomparisontocuraao-styleliqueurs,triplesecmayseemlighterbodiedandlesssweet.Becausethespiritisdistilledafterinfusion,triplesecsareclearincolorandtendtohaveapureorangeflavoruncorruptedbyotherbotanicalsoragedspirits.Triplesecsaregreatforcitrus-basedcocktailsandcocktailsmadewithunagedspirits.
PAULASTEXASORANGE
PaulasTexasOrangehasbeenmadeinAustinsince2006byPaulaAngerstein,thefirstwomandistillerinthestateandownerofthesecondlegaldistilleryinTexas.Itismadewithaneutralgrainbasespiritthatismaceratedwithfreshorangepeels,thensweetenedwithcanesugar.Itismoreakintoanorangecellothanacuraaoortriplesec,asthespiritisnotredistilledaftermaceration.Ithasaverybright,cleanorangeflavorthatworksgreatinMargaritasandsimplecocktails.
PaulaAngerstein
PAULASTEXASSPIRITS
PaulaAngersteinwasborninMeyersville,atinytownoutsideofthesmalltownofCueroinsouthTexas.AftergraduatingfromCueroHigh,sheleftforthecityanduniversitylifeatUTAustin.Likemanycollegestudents,sheremainedundeclaredforaslongasshecould,LimoncelloStudiesnotevencrossinghermindatthetimeasapossiblecareerpath.EventuallyshetookajournalismclassandajobattheDailyTexanandfoundhermajor.Angersteinsaidthat,unfortunately,inthe1980s,Ilookedaroundandallofmyjournalismbuddieswhodgraduatedwereoutofwork.SoIdecidedtodouble-majorincomputerscience.
Thesummeraftergraduation,Angersteinspentthebestsixhundreddollarsofherlifeandembarkedonafifty-five-dayEuropeanadventure,onagrouptourthattookheralloverthecontinent.WhenshelaterreturnedtotheStates,herdecisiontodouble-majorwouldbefortuitousandprovidedtheperfectskillsetforajobinthefieldoftechnicalwriting.Eventuallyshegotintoprogramming,andhercareerinthesoftwarefieldtookhertoSouthernCalifornia,and,ofcourse,backtoEurope.Inthelate1980sshebegantravelingabroadregularlyforwork,firsttoHamburgandParis,andeventuallytoWindsor,England,whereshelivedforacoupleofyearsintheearly1990s.ItwasduringthistimethatshefellinlovewithPaul,whohasbeenherpartnerincrimeeversince.TogethertheyfellinlovewithItaly,whenalast-minutevillareservationinTuscanyledtoamagicalweekduringtherunningofthefamousIlPalioraceinSienna.
TheyweresoenamoredofTuscanythattheyvowedtoreturneveryyearfortherestoftheirlivesapromisetheyhavekepttothisday,withonlyafewexceptions.AngersteinisquicktopointoutthatshehasnotalwaysbeendialedintothefoodoftheItaliankitchen.IwassixteenthefirsttimeIhadpizza,shereminisced,andthatwaswhenPizzaHutcametoCuero.
SohowdidaprogrammerwithaloveofEuropebecomethefirstfemaledistillerinTexas?WelearnedaboutlimoncelloduringourtripstoItaly,Angersteinrecalled.Thenyearslater,mysistergavemea
recipeshefoundinamagazineforhowtomakeitathome.Weoriginallyjustdiditforourselvesandforfriendsandfamily.WhenAngersteindecidedshewantedtomakelimoncelloprofessionally,shegotafriendlywordofadvicethatchangedthecourseofherbusiness.AttheadviceofRussellSmith,wedecidedtomakeorangeliqueurfirst.TexasisaMargaritamarket,andyoucantmakeaMargaritawithoutagoodorangeliqueur.InFebruary2005,AngersteinreleasedPaulasTexasOrange,thefirstorangeliqueurtobemadeinTexas.InOctober2006,shefollowedthatupwithPaulasTexasLemon.Thetimingcouldnthavebeenbetter,asAngersteinlaunchedatthebeginningofwhatwouldbecomeadelugeoflocalspiritsandanappreciationforlocalproductsingeneral.
WhileAngersteinisknownprofessionallyasthefirstladyofTexasspirits,sheisknownpersonallyastheconsummatehostess.ThepartiesatPaulandPaulashousearelegendary,tobesure,butaweeknightdinnerforthemisnolessimpressive.Shetracesherhospitalityskillsbacktothegoodstandardcountrylivingofherchildhood.TheLutheranChurchpotluckswerethebigshow.Everybodybroughtspecialtiesthattheywerefamousforthebarwasprettyhigh.Womenservedwinericeandblack-eyedpeas,whilethemensmokedbrisket.Whatevertheoccasion,Angersteiniscertaintomakesurethereisnoshortageofrefreshments.OurfavoritewaytoenjoyPaulasTexasOrangeisinthePaulasMargarita.AndPaulasLemon,pulledstraightfromthefreezer,isagreatwaytocapoffasummermeal.
CORPSEREVIVER3000
CorpseReviverswereonceacategoryofdrinks,whatmightnowbecategorizedashairofthedogcocktails.ThemostfamousoftheseistheCorpseReviverNo.2,ofwhichHarryCraddockwroteinhis1930SavoyCocktailBook,Fourofthesetakeninquicksuccessionwillunrevivethecorpseagain.Bytheendofthetwentiethcentury,No.2wastheonlyCorpseReviveranyonecouldremember,ifinfacttheyknewanyatall.InthisvariationonNo.2,absinthereplacesthegin,andSt-GermainfillsinforLilletaCorpseReviverofthefuture.
34ounceTenneysonAbsintheRoyaleorotherblancheabsinthe34ounceSt-Germainelderflowerliqueur
34ounceorangeliqueur(weusedPaulasTexasOrange;Cointreaualsoworkswell)
34ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuiceOrangecoin,forgarnish
Combinetheabsinthe,St-Germain,orangeliqueur,andlemonjuiceinamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Strainintoachilledcocktailglassandgarnishwiththeorangecoin.
ABSINTHE
Inthehistoryofspirits,thechapteronabsintheisperhapsthemostmystifying.Inthespanofabouttwohundredyears,absinthewentfromrelativeobscuritytomuseofthebelleepoquetoscapegoatfortheillsofindustrialization.Demonized,banned,fetishized,andre-legalizedwhatisallthefussabout?
AbsinthetakesitsnamefromArtemesiaabsinthium,thescientificnameforgrandwormwood.Wormwoodhasbeenusedsinceancienttimesforitspurportedanthelminticqualities.Wormwood,anise,andfennelarethecorebotanicalsinabsinthe,whichemergedinthelateeighteenthcenturyaroundthesmallSwissvillageofCouvet,neartheFrench-Swissborder.Likemanyherbalspirits,absinthehasitsrootsintheearlyEuropeanapothecarytraditionofdistillingplantsroots,stems,herbs,flowers,barks,andsooninalcoholfortheirpurportedpharmacologicalbenefits.
Absinthegainedpopularityintheearlypartofthenineteenthcentury,withnosmallthankstotheFrenchmilitary,whichissueditasanantimalarialtosoldiersfightingabroad.AbsinthegotanotherboostwhentheFrenchwineindustrywasdevastatedbythegrapevinepestPhylloxerainthe1860sand70s.Withcheapwinetemporarilyunavailable,drinkersturnedtoothersourcesforspiritedamusement,andnosmallnumberofthemturnedtoabsinthe.Absinthewasparticularlypopularamongstthewritersandartistsofthebelleepoque,andfiguresprominentlyinpaintingsbyDegas,Picasso,VanGogh,andothers.
Thewineindustrywasnonetoopleasedwiththisdevelopment,andwhenthevineyardsrecovered,theindustrylaunchedacampaigntoreclaimsaleslosttoabsinthedrinkers.ThetemperancemovementthatwasafootonAmericanshoreswouldneverhavebeencapableofbanningallalcoholfromFrenchcommercebecausewineproductioninthatcountryisdeeplyimbeddedintheirculturalheritage.Butitfoundawillingpartnerinthewineproducers,andtogethertheywereabletocreateadistinction:Winewasnatural,agricultural,traditional,andhealthful.Absinthe,ontheotherhand,wasindustrial,foreign,newfangled,andtoxic.
Thecaseagainstabsinthewasassistedbysomejunkscienceoftheperiod:Wormwoodcontainsthecomponentthujone,whichwasrumoredtohavepsychoactiveorotherdeleteriousproperties.Physiciansconjuredupthediseaseabsinthism,whichwasmorelikelyjustgoodold-fashionedalcoholismdressedupforpoliticalpurposes.Aseriesofunfortunatelytimed,sensationalistabsinthemurdersdrovethefinalnailintoabsinthescoffin.TheSwisswerethefirsttobanabsinthein1910,theAmericansfollowedsuitin1912,andfinallytheFrenchclosedthebooksonabsinthein1914.Triedforacrimeitdidnotcommitandfoundguiltyinthecourtofpublicopinion,absinthewasoutlawedinjustaboutanyplaceithadbeenrelevant.
IfnotfortheeffortsofafewabsintheevangelistssuchasTedBreaux,absinthemighthavestayedforeverinhistorysdustbin.ButtheeffortsofBreauxandotherspaidoff,astheyprovedthatabsinthewasnotdangeroustoyourhealthatleastnotmoresothananyotheralcoholicbeverage.Thelong-standingbanwaslifted,andfinallyin2007,authenticFrenchabsinthewasimportedagaintotheUnitedStatesforthefirsttimeinalmostacentury.
ABSINTHEUSE
Theclassicwayabsinthewouldhavebeenenjoyedinthebelleepoquewasinatraditionaldrip:About1ounceofspiritispouredintoanabsintheorPontarlierglass.Ifsugarisdesired,aperforatedspoonisplacedacrossthemouthoftheglass,andasugarcubeisplacedonthespoon.Waterisslowlydrippedor
pouredoverthesugarcube,whichdissolves(withhigh-qualitymodernabsinthes,sugarisnotnecessaryunlesspreferredbythedrinker).
Asthewatercontentrisesintheglass,theabsintheundergoesavisualchangefromtransparentgreentoopaquejade,inwhatisknownasalouche(pronouncedloosh).Theloucheeffectiscausedbyessentialoilsfromthedistilledherbs(specificallyasubstanceknownastrans-anethol,presentinallanise-flavoredspirits)thataresolubleinalcoholbutinsolubleinwater.Aswaterisaddedtotheglass,thealcoholconcentrationdecreases,andanetholprecipitatesoutofthesolution,thusgivingtheappearanceofcloudingtheliquid.Althoughabsintheisthemostnotoriousofthespiritsthatlouche,itisnottheonlyone:AllmannerofaniseandherbalspiritsfoundaroundtheMediterraneanwillundergotheprocess,somemoresubtlythanothers.
ThereismuchritualassociatedwiththeabsinthedripandwhileImyselfenjoyalltheaccoutrements,youdonotneedtoamassacollectionofabsinthe-specificgeartoenjoyabsinthe.Atitsmostbasic,youonlyneedsomekindofglasstodrinkitfrom,andsomekindofvesseltopouricedwaterfrom.
Beforeabsinthesban,itwasawell-knowncocktailingredient,thoughfrequentlyitwasusedonlyindashes,drops,andrinsesmoreofacocktailseasoningthanthemainshow.TheSazeracisthemostfamousofthese,thoughatthispointintime,theSazerachasbeenmadewithHerbsaint,ananiseliqueur,formoreofitshistorythanithasbeenwithauthenticabsinthe.Youwillfindanumberofrecipesinthisbookthatfeatureabsintheaseitherthemainspiritorbestsupportingactor.Specifically,IhaveusedTenneyson,ablancheabsinthemadeatthehistoricEmilePernotdistilleryinPontarlier,France,foranAustin-basedspiritscompany.Tenneysonutilizestraditionalabsintheherbsbutalsoincorporatestypicalginbotanicalssuchasjuniperandlemonpeel.Itsgin-reminiscentprofileandcomparativelylowproof(106proof,or53percentalcoholbyvolume)makeitaperfectspiritformixingcocktails.
ABSINTHESTYLES
Verteabsinthes,truetotheirname,aregreenincolor.Likealldistilledspirits,absinthecomesoffthestillclear.Verteabsinthesundergoasecondaryherbalinfusionthatgivesabsintheitsfamouscolor.
Blancheabsinthesareclearoutofthebottle,andbecomewhitewhentheyarelouched.ThisstyleiscommonofSwissabsinthe,andissometimesknownaslableue,especiallywhentheabsintheismadeclandestinely,asmuchofitwasinabsinthesheartlandduringabsinthesalmostcentury-longbaninSwitzerland.
Bohemianistheeuphemismusedtodescribeabsinthesthatdeemphasizetheaniseprofileandaregenerallycold-compoundedwithessencesdissolvedinhigh-proofalcohol.Thistypifiestheno-eabinsthsthatstartedcomingoutoftheCzechRepublic(whereabsinthewasneverbanned),themostfamousofwhichwastheHillsbrand.Bohemianabsinthesplayedanimportantroleinrenewinginterestinabsinthe,though,unfortunately,theytendtolackthenuanceandeleganceoftraditionaldistilledabsinthe.
DAIQUIRI
TheDaiquiriisoneofthegreat,misunderstoodclassiccocktails.Itsoriginalformulaisalmostimpossiblysimple:rum,lime,andsugar.Itwascreatedinlate-nineteenth-centuryCubainthedaysshortlyaftertheSpanish-AmericanWarandgainedpopularityinthebarsofHavanabeforetraveling,according
tolegend,toWashingtonDCsArmyandNavyClubviaAdmiralLuciusJohnson.TheversionsfoundintheDaiquirishacksofAmericasbeachtowns,chainrestaurants,andcollegetowns,andonthestreetsofNewOrleansbearlittleresemblancetotheelegantCubanclassic.ForgetDaiquirimixes.Allyouneedareafewlimes,somesugar(preferablyarawtype,butthewhitestuffworks),andgoodrum.TheclassicDaiquiriwouldhavebeenmadewithdrywhiterum,butthedrinkisalsofabulouswithyourfavoriteagedrumorwitharhumagricole.
2ounceswhiterum
1ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice
1ounceSimpleSyrup
Limewheel,forgarnish
Combinetherum,limejuice,andsimplesyrupinamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Adjusttheamountofsyruptotaste.Strainintoachilledcocktailglass.Garnishwiththelimewheel.
FIGDAIQUIRI
Thereisasexinesstofigsthatbordersontheobscene;nowondertheirleaveswereusedbycensorsofancientarttocover,ahem,objectionableparts.FigsgrowespeciallywellincentralTexas,ifyoucankeepthemawayfromthesquirrelsandothercritterslongenoughtoletthemripenforpicking.Thetasteoffreshfigswhenyoueatthemrawisnotjustfruity,butalsoearthy,vegetal,andprimordial.Whenusedincocktails,theirsweetnesscomesforwardanynumberofclassiccocktailscanbenefitfromtheadditionofafewripefigs.
4smallor2largeripefigs,stemsremoved,cutinhalf,plus1wholefigforgarnish34ounceSimpleSyrup
2ounceswhiterum
1ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice
Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethehalvedfigsandsimplesyrup.Addtherumandlimejuiceandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Adjusttheamountofsyruptotaste.Fine-strainintoachilledcocktailglass.Garnishwiththewholefig.
AGRICOLEDAIQUIRIWITHFRESHPEACH
TheDaiquiriissuchasimplecocktail,itservesasagreatplatformforexperimentation.Changingaroundthebasespiritandsourceofsweetnesscanresultinsomesurprisinglydeliciousvariations.Hererhumagricole(below)replacesmolassesrum,anditsvisceral,vegetalqualitiesplaynicelywithsweet-tartpeaches.
1smallor12largeripepeach,diced,plus1peachsliceforgarnish34ounceSimpleSyrup
2ouncesrhumagricole
4dropsBitterTruthJerryThomassOwnDecanterBitters
34ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice
Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethepeachandsimplesyrup.Youmayneedtoadjusttheamountofsyrupdependinguponhowsweetyourpeachis.Addtherhumagricole,bitters,andlimejuiceandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Fine-strainintoachilledcocktailglass.Garnishwiththepeachslice.
RHUMAGRICOLE
FromtheFrenchislandsintheWestIndies,specificallyMartinique,comesauniquestyleofrumknownasrhumagricole.Whereasmostrumismadefrommolasses,aby-productofthesugar-refiningprocess,rhumagricoleismadefromfresh-pressedsugarcanejuice,harvestedlocallytothedistillery.Theresultingspiritisearthy,grassy,vegetal,andherbaceousnottomentionpricey.ThequalityofMartiniquerhumisassuredbytheFrenchgovernmentthroughanAppellationdOrigineContrle(AOC),oraprotectedappellationoforigin,forrhumsthatmeetcertainstandardsofproduction.Asaresult,AOCRhumMartiniquemustadheretostandardsofproductionandconsistencyasrigorousasthoseforotherAOCproducts,suchasCognac,Armagnac,andChampagne.
ELPEPINO
ThereisanunfortunatetendencytopigeonholeanytequiladrinkasbeingsomekindofMargaritajusttakealookatthemenuatyourfavoriteTex-Mexrestaurant,andtheremaybeadozenMargaritavariationsonthemenu.Inreality,tequilaisaversatilespiritanddeservestoberecognizedbeyondits(considerable)contributiontotheMargarita.Onahotdayyoudbehardpressedtofindacocktailmorerefreshingthanthiscombinationoftequila,coolmint,andcucumber.
13cupfreshdicedcucumber1ounceMintSyrup(recipefollows)2ounces100%agavesilvertequila
12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuiceFreshmint,forgarnish
Cucumberspear,forgarnish
Mezcal(optional)
Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethecucumberandmintsyrup.Addthetequilaandlimejuiceandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.StrainintoadoubleOldFashionedglassfilledwithcrushedice.Garnishabundantlywithfreshmintandacucumberspear.Optional:Floatasmallamountofmezcalontopofthecocktailtoaddasmokyaroma.
MINTSYRUP
1cuprawsugarorevaporatedcanejuice
1cupfilteredwater
1cuppackedfreshmintleaves
Inasaucepan,bringthesugarandwatertoasimmer.Addthemintandallowittoinfuseuntilaprominentmintflavordevelops,about10minutes.Strainoutthemintandallowthesyruptocool.Storerefrigeratedforupto1month.
TEQUILA
TexasisoneofthelargestmarketsfortequilaconsumptionintheUnitedStates.Texanspracticallygrowupdrinkingthestuffandhaveaspecialloveaffairnotjustwithtequila,butwithitshomelandaswell.Itisasiftequilasymbolizesacarefreelifehoweverfar-fetchedthatweimagineinoldMexico.Butthisbonhomiebeliesthemuchmorecomplexrealityoftequilaproductionthesocial,agricultural,ecological,andeconomicimplicationsbehindthebeveragewithwhichwelubricateourmemories.
TequilastartswiththeWeberBlueagave.Amemberofthelilyfamily,WeberBlueisoneofhundredsofagavesthatgrowinMexico,buttheonlyoneallowedintequilaproduction.Afterasmuchassixtoadozenormoreyearsintheground,theplantsareharvestedbytrimmingofftheouterleaves,thepencas.Whatisleftisthepia,sonamedforitsresemblancetoatrimmedpineapple.Piasaretransportedtothedistillery,wheretheyareroastedinclaybrickovens.Onceroasted,agavesarecrushedandthefiberswashedwithwatertoyieldaguamiel(honey-water).Yeastisaddedtothiscombinationofwaterandagavesugarstostartfermentation,wherebystarchesareconvertedtoalcohol.Thefermentedmostomakesitswaytothestill,whereitwillpassthroughtwotimes(tequilaisdistilledatleasttwotimesbylaw,sometimesmore).Thefirstdistillationresultsinlow-proofordinario;aftertheliquidisdistilledthe
secondtime,itisknownastequila.
Alltequila,bydefinition,mustbedistilledinMexicofromagavesthataregrowninthefive-stateareathatcomprisestheDenominacindeOrigendeTequila.Tequilafallsintotwoprimarycategories.Thefirst,andfinest,is100%agave,whichmeansthatallofthesugarisfromagaveonly,andthatthetequilamustbebottledinMexico.Most100%agavetequilaissoldunagedandisidentifiedasplata,orsilver(platatequilascanbeagedforuptotwomonthsinwood,thoughmostarenot).Tequilathatisagedfortwototwelvemonthsinoakbarrelsiscalledreposado(rested),andwhenitisagedforonetotwoyears,itisknownasaejo.Thereisanewercategoryoftequilascalledextra-aejotheseareagedformorethantwoyears.
Thelargercategoryiswhatwecallmixto(knowninMexicoastequilaregular),whichmeansitisablendofsugarsfromagaveandothersources,suchascaneandgrain.So-calledgoldtequilaisunagedmixtotequilathatisalsoknownasjovenabocado(youngandsmoothed).Generallyatequilaissmoothedbyageinanoakbarrel,butgoldtequilacomesbyitssmoothnesswiththeadditionofcaramelandotherflavorings,whichgiveittheappearanceandsensationofhavingbeenaged.Mixtotequilabylawmustcontainonlyaminimumof51percentagavesugarandcanbesoldinbulkandbottledinothercountries.
Tequilaconsumptionhassoaredinrecentyears,andwiththatdemandcomesanumberofchallenges.Becauseagavestakemanyyearstomatureasmuchaseighttotenyearsisnotuncommonitisdifficulttopredictwhattequilaconsumptionisgoingtobelikebythetimetheagavesarereadytobeharvested.Sothefarmersbasicallyhavetoguessontheamounttheyplant.
Agavesarepropagatedfromlittleoffshootscalledhijuelosthataregeneticclonesoftheparents.Theplantsdontcross-pollinate,whichweakensthemagainstdiseasesandpests.Themoreprofoundthreattotraditionaltequilahastodowithchangestotheproductionprocess.Technologicaladvancescanincreaseyieldbyasmuchas3percent;however,theycanalsobeusedtoincorporatechemicalsintoaonceorganicprocess.Thepopularityoftequilahasalsoledtomultinationalcorporationsscoopingupdistilleries.Asfacilitiesindustrialize,theresultingtequilascanchange,becominglesstraditional,lighter,lessvegetal,and,inaway,lesstequila-y.
FACUNDOSFIX
ImadethiscocktailfortheBacardiLegacycompetition.MygoalwastocreateacocktailinthemoldofthegreatBacardilegacydrinkssuchastheDaiquiriandtheMojito.
112ouncesBacardiSuperiorrum34ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice34ounceBenedictine1barspoonSimpleSyrup
Flamedlemonpeel,forgarnish
Combinetherum,lemonjuice,Benedictine,andsimplesyrupinamixingglasswithiceandshakevigorouslytochill.Strainintoachilledcocktailglassandgarnishwiththeflamedlemonpeel.
FLORDEPIA
Mostpeoplethinkoftikiandimmediatelythinkofrum.Buttiki-eracocktailswereasdiverseasthebartenderswhomadethem.Aslongastheycapturedtheessenceofthetropics,tikidrinkscouldbemadewithanythingfromgintobrandytoabsinthe.Wehonorthattraditionherewiththistequilatikidrink.
112ounces100%agavesilvertequila34ounceSt-Germainelderflowerliqueur
1ouncepineapplejuice
12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice12ounceCanelaSyrup
Pineapplewedge,forgarnish
Combinethetequila,elderflowerliqueur,pineapplejuice,limejuice,andcanelasyrupinamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Strainintoatikimugfilledwithcrushedice.Garnishwiththepineapplewedge.
CANELASYRUP
1cuprawsugar,processedsugar,orevaporatedcanejuice
1cupfilteredwater
2largeMexican-stylecinnamonsticks(soldascanelaintheMexicangrocerysection)
Inasaucepan,bringthesugarandwatertoasimmer.Breakupthecinnamonsticksandaddtothepan;allowtoinfuseuntilaprominentcinnamonflavordevelops,about15minutes.Strainoutthecinnamonsticksandallowthesyruptocool.Storerefrigeratedforupto1month.
GIMLET
TheGimletholdsaspecialplaceinmyheart,asitwasoneofthefirstgrown-updrinksIeverlearnedtoorder,onceIwasoldenoughandhadthesensibilitytodrinkinestablishmentsthatutilizedvesselsotherthandisposableplasticcups.Unfortunately,asIlearnedmoreabouttheroleoffreshandnaturalingredientsincocktails,theGimletsappealbegantowane,duetotheproblematicnatureofoneofitstwoingredients:RosesLimeJuice.Rosesbeganitslifeinthelatenineteenthcenturyasalimecordiallimejuicepreservedwithenoughsugartokeepitfresh,especiallyacrosslongoceanvoyages.Acenturylater,however,thefamouscordialhadlostmuchofitsluster,andthemodernversionavailableintheUnitedStatescontainsartificialcolorsandartificialflavors,andissweetenedwithhigh-fructosecornsyrup(inothercountriesitmaystillbemadewithcanesugar).Somebartendersrespondedby
makingGimletswithfreshlimejuiceandsugar;whereasthiscombinationmightmakeaperfectlydelightfultipple,aGimletitisnot.Bytraditionandbydefinition,theGimletismadewithpreservedlimejuice.Theanswertothisdrinkersdilemmaistomakeyourownlimecordial,whichhasmuchmorecomplexitythanthesimplemarriageoflimejuiceandsugar,andwillgivenewlifetothisturn-of-the-centuryclassic.Althoughtraditionallymadewithgin,theGimletisalsooftenmadewithvodka,too.
212ouncesgin2ounceshouse-madeLimeCordial
Limewheel,forgarnish
Combinetheginandlimecordialinamixingglass.Shakevigorouslywithicetochill,thenstrainintoachilledcocktailglass.Garnishwiththelimewheel.
LIMECORDIAL
Makesabout212cups
1dozenmedium-sizeripePersianlimes
About112cupssugar
Washthelimesinwarmwatertoremovetheproducewax.Allowtodry.
Placethe112cupssugarinamixingbowl.Usingavegetablepeeler,carefullyremovetheveryoutermostzestfromthelimes,takingoffaslittlepithaspossible.Asyouremovethezest,makesurethattheactionisdirectedoverthebowl,sothatthesugarmayabsorbasmuchexpressedoilaspossible.Itis,afterall,theessentialoilintheskinthatisthelimesmostprizedpossession.Afterallofthezesthasbeenaddedtothesugar,useamuddlertogentlypressthezestintothesugar;theabrasionwillallowtheessentialoilinthezesttobereleasedintothesugar.Setasideandallowtoinfuseforabout30minutes.
Meanwhile,cutthelimesinhalfandjuicethem,takingcaretostrainthroughafine-meshstrainer.Measurethelimejuiceandaddenoughsugartothebowlsothattheamountofsugarbyvolumeisequaltotheamountoflimejuicebyvolume(e.g.,ifthereare2cupsoflimejuice,add12cupofsugartotheexistingamountinthebowl).Addthelimejuicetothesugarandstircontinuouslyuntilallthesugarisdissolved,leavingthelimezestinthesyrup.Coverandstoreintherefrigerator.After6to8hours,tastethecordial.Ifitistoyourliking,strainoutthelimezestandbottle.Formorecomplexflavor,leavethezestinovernight.Storerefrigeratedforupto1month.
HOTSUMMERNIGHT
In2007,HoustonnativeMindyKucanwonaninternationalcocktailcompetitionamongstHiltonHotelsbartenderswiththiscocktail.HeraccomplishmenthelpedputTexasbartendersonthemapinthoseearlydaysofthecraftcocktailrevivalintheseparts.AttheurgingoflegendarybarmanTonyAbou-Ganim,andwiththehelpofaneagergroupofbartenders,in2008shefoundedtheAustinchapteroftheUnitedStatesBartendersGuild,thefirstchapterinTexas.
34ounceHoneySyrup(recipefollows)
2sprigsfreshthyme
34ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
112ouncesTitosHandmadeVodka12ouncePaulasTexasLemon(orlimoncelloifyouareoutssideTexas)
1ouncenaturallemonorlemon-limesoda
Lemonwheel,forgarnish
Combinethehoneysyrup,onethymesprig,andthelemonjuice,vodka,andPaulasTexasLemoninamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Fine-strainintoaCollinsglasswithfreshice.Topwiththelemonsodaandgarnishwiththesecondthymesprigandthelemonwheel.
HONEYSYRUP
Honeyisafabulouscocktailingresdientanddatestoancienttimesasasweetenerforbeverages.Unfortunately,youcantusehoneyas-is,straightoutofthejar,asiceandhoneydontmix.Instead,makeasyrupofequalpartshotwaterandhoney.Itwillnotonlypourmoreeasilythanstraighthoney,itwillalsodissolvemorereadilyintoyourcocktail.Storeitcoveredintherefrigeratorforuptotwoweeks.
GOLDENGATESWIZZLE
ThiscocktailcomesfromHoustonbartenderMattTanner.AlthoughitcontainsafullounceandahalfofFernetBranca,theheadyItalianamaro(digestif),thiscocktailwasmadetobearefreshingintroductiontothatsometimes-polarizingspirit.ItsnamepayshomagetoSanFrancisco,whichisknowntobeoneofthelargestper-capitaconsumersofFernetBrancaintheworld.
112ouncesFernetBranca
1ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
34ounceOrgeat
14ounceTaylorsVelvetFalernum6dashesofAngosturaorangebitters
4dashesofAngosturaaromaticbitters
Largefreshmintsprig,forgarnish
Orangeslice,forgarnish
BuildtheliquidingredientsinaCollinsglassfilledwithcrushedice.Usingaswizzlestickorabar
spoon,swizzlethedrinkbyrubbingthestickorspooninthepalmofyourhandbackandforthasthedrinkchillsandtheglassfrosts.Garnishwithagenerousbouquetofmintandtheorangeslice.
LAMARIQUITA
Iamgenerallynotafanoftheflavoredvodkas,preferringinsteadtousefreshingredientstoachievethedesiredresult.Thereareafewexceptionstothisrule.GrahamsTexasTeaismadeinAustinbyTreatyOakDistilling,naturallyflavoredbysteepingNilgiriblackteaandsweetenedwithcanesugar.
2ouncesGrahamsTexasTea
1ounceSt-Germainelderflowerliqueur
34ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
2ouncescarbonatedwater
Lemonwheel,forgarnish
CombinetheGrahamsTexasTea,elderflowerliqueur,andlemonjuiceinamixingglasswithiceandshakevigorouslytochill.StrainintoaCollinsglassfilledwithfreshice.Topwiththecarbonatedwaterandgarnishwiththelemonwheel.
LOVEBITE
TheverythoughtofaValentinesDaycocktailmakesmeshudderinfearofattemptingtore-createtheflavorofachocolate-coveredcherryinliquidformalldoneupinholidaydragwithchocolateshavingsandsprinkles,asthatisthetypicalmoldforsuchdrinks.Itooktheoppositeapproachhere,withacocktailforthosewhoseideaofromanceinvolvesjustalittlenibble.
112ouncesTitosHandmadeVodka12ounceTenneysonAbsintheRoyaleorotherblancheabsinthe12ounceraspberrysyrup,suchasMoninoranothercoffeeshopbrand(ormuddlefreshraspberrieswithatouchofSimpleSyrup)34ouncepineapplejuice12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice1raspberry,forgarnish
Combinealltheingredientsexcepttheraspberryinamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Strainintoachilledcocktailglassandgarnishwiththeraspberry.
MATAGALPA
Essentiallyanaged-rumMargarita,thiscocktailwasoriginallymadewitheighteen-year-oldFlordeCaarum,buttastesgreatwithanynumberofagedrums.
112ouncesFlordeCaaCentenarioGoldeighteen-year-oldrum
34ounceCointreauorPaulasTexasOrange
12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice12ounceSimpleSyrup
Flamedorangepeel,forgarnish
Combinetherum,Cointreau,limejuice,andsimplesyrupinamixingglasswithice;shakevigorouslytochill.Strainintoachilledcocktailglassandgarnishwiththeflamedorangepeel.
HowtoDrinkFluent
MEXICAN
WITHCLAUDIAALARCN
IdecidedtoreachouttomyfriendandcolleagueClaudiaAlarcn,aveteranfigureinAustinsfoodandbeveragejournalismscene,withafewquestionsaboutMexicanandMexican-styledrinks.AlarcnhailsfromMexicoCitybuthascalledAustinherhomesincethe1980s.IhadaburningquestionaboutMargaritaserviceinMexico.InTexas,twostandardquestionsarealmostcertaintofollowwhenyouorderaMargaritainarestaurant,andinmanybars:Wouldyoulikethatontherocksorfrozen?Wouldyoulikesaltornosalt?MostMargaritadrinkersarefamiliarenoughwiththeroutinethattheypreemptthequestion.ButItakeissuewiththequestionitself.Itseemsliketheproperquestionwouldbetoaskifthedrinkerpreferredthedrinkstraightuporontherocks.Wheredidthefrozenversioncomefrom?
InMexico,afrozenMargaritawasunheardofuntilfairlyrecently,Alarcnsaidbywayofconfirmingmysuspicion.ButnowtheyrepopularinplaceslikeMexicoCitybecauseofinternationalchainrestaurantslikeTGIFridayssothefrozenMargaritawasimportedtoMexicofromtheUnitedStates.BecauseitsfromtheStates,itsanovelty.TraditionallyitwouldhavebeenservedshakenandservedupintoaV-shapedstemmedglass,whichbringsmetomynextMargaritaconundrum:theMexicanMartini.
Bytheearly1980s,theMargaritawasubiquitousinTexas,butitwasntnecessarilygoodormadecorrectly,Alarcnexplained.ItturnsoutmostplacesusedaMargaritamix,withvaryingdegreesofartificiality,sothefolksattheCedarDoorstartedservingwhattheycalledaMexicanMargarita:Tequila,
Cointreau,andlimejuice,shakenandstrainedintoastemmedglass.ItwasatraditionalMargarita,servedtraditionally.Unfortunately,therevivalwouldntlastforever.
Overtime,AustinitesstartedcallingtheMexicanMargaritatheMexicanMartini,becauseofthestemmedglass.Eventually,thebartendersstartedservingtheshakerontheside,andnowwereatthecurrentsituationwiththeMexicanMartini,Alarcntoldme.AndthecurrentsituationisafarcryfromthatearlyattemptatbringingbackthetraditionalMargarita.MyresearchintotheMexicanMartiniatseveralprominentbars,twoofwhichclaimtohaveinventedit,revealedwidespreaduseofanumberofingredientsthathavenoplaceinaMargarita,suchasorangejuice,olivejuice,Margaritamix,andSprite.Atitsbest,aMexicanMartiniisreallyjustaclassictop-shelfMargarita,servedinastemmedglass(withanolivegarnishifyoufeelsocompelled).
AllofthistalkofMargaritasobscuresthefactthatthedrinkisfarmorepopularintheUnitedStatesthaninMexico.AccordingtoAlarcn,ifMexicansaregoingtodrinktequila,itismorelikelytobeinaPaloma,orservedneatwithasideofSangrita.NottobeconfusedwithSangria,Sangrita(meaninglittleblood)isamixtureofjuiceandspicethatisservedasanaccompanimenttotequila.Althoughthenumberofrecipesisvirtuallyinfinite,twodifferingschoolsofthoughtprevail:thepomegranateschoolandthetomatoschool.Thepomegranateschoolseemstobethemoretraditional,inwhichSangritaismadefromamixoforangeandlimejuiceswithgrenadineandspices.Thetomatoschoolrecipederivesitsredcolorfromtomatoasopposedtopomegranateandchiles.Eitherway,theSangritaistakeninsmallsipsbetweensipsof100%agavetequilaandactsasalittlepalatecleanserandpalatestimulant.Inreality,tequilaisntthemainthingpeopledrinkinMexico.Scotch,rum,brandy,andCokeareallverycommon,Alarcnsaid,andnoshortageofbeerandMicheladas.
CLAUDIAALARCNSSANGRITA
Thisrecipeiseasytomakeandisnicelybalancedbetweensweetandsavory,spicyandtart.Ofcourse,youcanadjustthespicetoyourliking.Makesabout4cups
14medium-sizewhiteonion
2cupsfreshlysqueezedorangejuice
2cupstomatojuiceorClamatojuice
12cupfreshlysqueezedlimejuice2tablespoonshouse-madeornaturalgrenadine
14cuphotsauce(suchasValentina),ortotaste
1teaspoonsalt
Usingafinegrater,gratetheonionoverabowlfittedwithafine-meshstrainer.Discardthepulpypart.Inapitcher,combinetheonionjuicewiththeremainingingredients.Stirthoroughlyandchill.
PALOMA
ThePalomaisthesecond-most-famoustequilacocktailaftertheMargarita,butitisnumberoneasconsumedinMexico.Youcanmakeitwithgrapefruitjuiceandclubsoda,butitismoretraditionallymadewithagrapefruitsodasuchasSquirt.
2ounces100%agavetequila
12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuicePinchofkoshersalt
3ouncesgrapefruitsoda
Limewedge,forgarnish
Buildalltheingredients,exceptthelimewedge,overiceinaCollinsglassandstirgentlytocombine.Garnishwiththelimewedge.
MICHELADA
ThethingthatrearsitsheadincontemporarybarsasaMicheladabearslittleresemblancetothedrinkasitisknowninMexicoasimple,perfectlyrefreshingconcoctionofbeerandlimeservedontherocksinasaltedglass.Thisisquitespartanbytodaysstandards,whenaMicheladaislikelytocomewithan
assortmentofaccompanimentsthatlookasiftheyescapedfromtheBloodyMarycart.AsClaudiaAlarcnexplainsit,BloodyMarymixisalatter-daygringoadditive:Somewherealongthewayitgotcorrupted.Ashotofmezcalortequilaontheside,however,isperfectlytraditional.
Salt
1ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice
1(12-ounce)canorbottleMexicanbeer
First,salttherimofapintglass,ifthatisyourpreference.Filltheglasswithiceandaddthelimejuice.Pourinthebeer.
BARRONEGRO
IftheMargaritaandPalomaaretheofficialdrinksoftequila,whatistheofficialdrinkofmezcal?Thisismynomination,amezcalversionofaCubaLibre.BarroNegroisadistincttypeofblackpotteryuniquetoOaxaca,thehomelandofmezcal.
112ouncesmezcal2dashesofAngosturabitters
2orangewedges
3ouncesMexicanCoca-Cola
Addthemezcalandbitterstoanice-filledOldFashionedglass.Squeezeinthejuiceoftheorangewedgesanddropthewedgesintotheglass.TopwiththeMexicanCoca-Colaandgiveitastir.
MEXICANCOCA-COLA
Coca-Colaismadewithslightvariationswhereverintheworlditismade.InMexico,manyofthebottlingplantsstillusecanesugartosweetenthesoda,asopposedtohigh-fructosecornsyrup(becauseofgovernmentcornsubsidiesintheUnitedStates,itischeaperformanufacturerstousecornsyrupinsteadofcanesugar,andsomostsodasarebottledaccordingly).MuchMexicanCokeisstillbottledinglassbottleswiththepaintedlabel.Whetheritsfornostalgiareasonsorperceivedhealthbenefits,TexanshavelonghadaloveaffairwithMexicanCoke,anditcanbefoundontheethnicspecialtyorspecialtysodashelfofmanygrocerystores.
MARGARITA
Asfarascocktails-ordered-by-namego,theMargaritaisoneofthemostpopulardrinksintheUnitedStates,andithasbeenastapleinTexasandtheSouthwestfordecades.ManycreationmythsobscuretheoriginoftheMargarita,thoughthemostlikelyscenarioisthatitisaTequilavariationontheDaisy.Daisieswereapre-Prohibitioncategoryofcocktailsconsistingofabasespirit,citrus,andaflavored
sweetenersuchascuraao.
Formanyyears,artificiallyenhancedgoldtequilawasthemostcommonvarietyavailable.Recentyearshavechangedthat,andtherearedozensofhigh-qualitytequilasonthemarket.TomakethebestMargarita,useonly100%agavetequilas,freshlysqueezedlimejuice,andagood-qualityorangeliqueur.
2ounces100%agavesilvertequila
34ounceCointreauorPaulasTexasOrange
34ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice1barspoonSimpleSyrup(optional,forthosewhopreferasweetercocktail)
Koshersalt(optional)
Limewedge,forgarnish
Combinethetequila,orangeliqueur,limejuice,andsimplesyrupwithiceinacocktailshaker.Shakevigorouslywiththeicetoproperlychillandemulsifytheingredients.Strainintoasalt-rimmed,chilledcocktailglassorontofreshiceinarocksglassorfootedgoblet.Garnishwiththelimewedge.
ANoteontheSkinnyMargarita:Theso-calledskinnyMargaritaphenomenonhasgainedtractioninrecentyears,muchtothechagrinoftraditionalistslikemyself.Ifyoulookatitrationally,boozehascalories,andtheresnowayofgettingaroundthosecaloriesifyoureapersonwholikestodrink.Ethylalcoholcontributesmostofthecaloriestothecocktailswedrink,whenwedrinkatraditionalcocktail.Whatisnotskinnyistheadded,andinmyopinionunnecessary,caloriesinmixes.SoifyoudrinkatraditionalMargarita,madeonlywithtequila,lime,andalittlebitoforangeliqueur,thedrinkhasaboutthesamecaloriesasthebottledproductfromtherealityTVstarandtastesawholelotbetter.
PERSIMMONMARGARITA
Persimmonsareoneofthehallmarksoffall.Fromthetimethetemperaturedropsuntiltheholidays,persimmonsstartmakingtheirwaytothelocalfarmersmarket.Thewaitinggamecanbealmostunbearable,butoncetheyarefinallyripe,therewardjustifiesthewait.Myfavoritethingtodowithpersimmonsistopresstheultra-ripefruitthroughafine-meshstrainer,discardtheskinandseeds,andshaketheresultingpulpintomyfallMargaritas.
2ouncesreposadotequila
2ouncesPaulasTexasOrange
2ouncespersimmonpuree
1ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice
Cinnamon-Sugar-Cayennerim(seeAbbevilleDaiquiri)
Combinealltheliquidingredientsinamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochillandemulsify.Strainontofreshiceinapintglassrimmedwithcinnamon-sugar-cayennerim.
PERSIMMONS
ThereisavarietyofpersimmonnativetoTexasthatissmallandturnsblackwhenripe.However,Irecommendusingfuyupersimmons,whicharesweetevenwhenhard,andturntoasweet,supple,mixablepudding.
Gentlywashthesoft,ripepersimmonsandremovethestemsandtheleavesatthetop.Usingarubberspatula,pressthepersimmonsthroughafine-meshstrainersetoveramixingbowl.Scrapetheoutsideofthestrainertomakesureyougetanyclingingpulp,anddiscardtheskinandseeds.Thestrainedpersimmonsyieldapudding-likepureethatcanbeusedforcocktailsandbaking.Itcanbekeptcoveredintherefrigeratorforupto1week.
FROZENMARGARITA
ThisisittheTipsyTastingPanelhasdevotedhoursanddaystorigorousresearchsothatyoucanenjoythebestpossibleMargaritainfrozenform.Gonearethedaysofcanned,bottled,orpowderedmixes.Thiseasy-to-makerecipewillforeverconvertyoutothetimelesscharmofthefreshlimefrozenMargarita.Whilethismayseemlikealotofbooze(anditis),thisrecipeissizedtofitthetypicalblown-glassMargaritastemwarecommontomanyTex-Mexrestaurants.Realistically,itcouldbetworeasonablysizedMargaritas.
2ounces100%agavetequila
2ouncesCointreauorPaulasTexasOrange
212ouncesfreshlysqueezedlimejuice1ounceSimpleSyrup
Coarsesalt(optional)
Limewedge,forgarnish
Combinethetequila,Cointreau,limejuice,andsimplesyrupinablendercupandfillwithiceuntiltheiceisjustcoveredbytheliquid.Blendthoroughly(itmaybenecessarytoaddalittlebitmoreicetoachievethedesiredslushiness).Pourintoagoblet,rimmedwithcoarsesaltifyoulike,andgarnishwiththelimewedge.
Note:ForaFrozenMargaritalaSanAntonio,upendabottleofBigRedintoyourdrink.ThatsrightBigRed.
THEFWORD:ABOUTFROZENDRINKS
Frozendrinksareapolarizingtopicamongthosecommittedtoqualitydrinks.TheDaiquirishacksofAmericasbeachdestinationsandpartytownshavedoneagreatdisservicetothefrozencocktail.Quiteoftendrinksbeingservedfromfrozendrinkmachinesaremadewithcommercialmixesandmade-upflavors.Attheirworst,eventheboozeisntwhatyouthinkitis.Thereareafewnotoriousdrive-throughdrinkstandsthatserveDaiquirismadewithoutrum,andMargaritasmadewithtequila-flavoredwine.Asyoucanimagine,thisisanathematothecraftcocktailbartenderanddiscriminatingconsumeralike.
ButjustbecauseadrinkhastheconsistencyofaSlurpeedoesnotmeanitmustbemadefromartificialingredients.Aproperlymadefrozendrinkcanadheretoallthecommandmentsofcraftmixologyflavor,balance,freshness,andquality.WhenyouconsidertheegregiousheatanddurationofaTexassummer,itbecomesallthemoreimperativetoengineerfrozendrinksthatsatisfyaswellastheycool.
AccordingtoTomasEstes,thelegendaryrestaurateurandtequilaambassador,EventhoughIpersonallyprefermineontherocks,afrozenMargaritaisaquickwaytogetadrinkintosomebodyshands.Soitappealstorestaurantoperators,includingmeinsomeofmyrestaurantsinLondonandParis.Butitslikeanythingelse,ifyouputingarbage,yougetgarbageout.Ifyouputinquality,yougetqualityout.AfrozenMargarita,justlikeitsshakencounterpart,mustbemadewith100%agavetequila,freshlysqueezedlimejuice,andgood-qualityorangeliqueur.
Thebiggestmisstephomebartendersmakewhenpreparingfrozendrinks(besidesusinginferior-qualitymixes)istotakeaperfectlydeliciousdrinkontherocksandthrowitintheblender.Theresultisawaterymess,becauseofalltheaddeddilutionfromtheblendedice.Itisimportanttocompensatewithadditionalsweet,sour,andboozyingredients.Anothercommonprobleminvolvestheiceused.Ifyouareusingatypicalhomeblender,asopposedtoaprofessionalblendersuchasaVita-Mix,chancesareyourblenderdoesnothavethecapacitytocompletelycrushthelargecubesthatcomefromyourfreezersicecubetrays.Itisbesttobuyabagoficefromtheconveniencestoreorslightlycrushicefromyourfreezer,asthiswillgiveyourblenderalegupandresultinasmoothertexture.Thelastthingyouwantinafrozendrinkisgiantchunksthatclogupyoursippystraw.
FUNFORTHEWHOLEFAMILY
Makesabouteight8-ouncecocktails
1cup(8ounces)100%agavetequila
1cup(8ounces)CointreauorPaulasTexasOrange
10ouncesfreshlysqueezedlimejuice
4ouncesSimpleSyrup(recipefollows)
Coarsesalt(optional)
Limewedges,forgarnish
Combinethetequila,Cointreau,limejuice,andsimplesyrupinablendercupandfillwithiceuntiltheiceisjustcoveredbytheliquid.Blendthoroughly(itmaybenecessarytoaddalittlebitmoreicetoachievethedesiredslushiness).Pourintogoblets,rimmedwithcoarsesaltifyoulike,andgarnisheachglasswithalimewedge.
Note:ThisrecipeisscaledforaVitamix-styleblenderwithalargerblenderpitcher.Ifyourblenderhasasmallpitcher,eitherblendthisrecipeinbatchesorcutitinhalf.
SIMPLESYRUP
Makesabout112cups
1cupfilteredwater
1cupsugar
Inasmallsaucepan,bringthewaterandsugartoasimmerandstiruntildissolved.Allowtocool.Bottleandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto1month.
TIPSYENTERTAINING:
HAPPYHOUR
OneofmyfavoriteimpromptupartiestothrowisaTex-MexHappyHour.Atriptothegrocerystore,astop-offattheliquorstore,andaboutanhourinthekitchenandyoucanthrowaneasyhappyhourthatwillmakequiteanimpression.
DRINKS:
Margaritas,Frozen,Persimmon,ortraditional
Mexicanbeers
Micheladas
TequilaSlammers
SNACKS:
TostadaswithGuacamole,Salsa,andChileconQueso
TipsysTXTM(TexbyTex-Mex)BrisketNachos
TEQUILASLAMMER
MostTexansarefamiliarwiththeritualofshootingtequilawithsaltandlime,thoughwerejectthistradition.First,itisajarringsensoryexperience.Saltandlimehardlycomplementgoodtequila,andwereprobablyadoptedoriginallyasamethodofmakingbadtequilamorepalatable.Althoughwegenerallybelievethatqualitytequilashouldbesippedandnotshot,thereisacertaincelebratoryfuntotheoccasionaltequilashooter.Wepreferthisalternativetosaltandlime.
Pinchofgroundcinnamon
112ounces100%agavereposadotequila
Orangewedge,forgarnish
Inthetraditionallickit,slamit,suckitmethod,firstlickthecinnamon,thenshootthetequila,andlastly
suckontheorangewedge.
TIPSYSTXTM(TEXBYTEX-MEX)
BRISKETNACHOS
AlthoughthenachomaybeastapleofTex-Mexcuisine,thereisonewaytomakeitevenmoreTexy:Addbrisket.Ifyouwantthefulleffect,itsbesttomaketherefriedblackbeansandthetortillachipsfromscratch.Unlessyouhappentobeapitmaster,Irecommendbuyingthebrisketandbarbecuesaucefromareputablesource.BecausethebrisketisgoingtomostlikelybereheatedforthisdishandbecausefattastessodamngoodIrecommendbuyingmoistbrisketforthispurpose,moistbeingaTexaseuphemismformeatcutfromthefattyendofthebrisket.IpreferthebrisketfrommyfriendsatAustinsFranklinBarbecue,butyouprobablyhaveyourownbarbecuejointinmind.IftheresonethingtoneverpickafightwithaTexanabout,itsbrisket.(Itis,however,completelyacceptableforaTexantopickafightaboutbrisketwithaKansan,Tennessean,orNorthCarolinian,sincetheyseemtohaveitallwrong.)
RefriedBeans
Chips
1poundfattybrisket,sliced
6ouncesbarbecuesauce,ortotaste
4cupsshreddedwhiteCheddarcheese
Sourcream,toserve
Guacamole,toserve
Salsa,toserve
Preheattheovento350F.Usingaspoonorspatula,spreadtherefriedbeansoverthefriedtortillas.Layasmallpieceofbrisketonthechips,alongwithasmallsqueezeofbarbecuesauce.Spreadtheshreddedcheesegenerouslyoverthechipsandbakeuntilthecheeseismelted,8to10minutes.Servewithsourcream,guacamole,andsalsa.Savetheleftoverrefriedblackbeansforadeliciousbeandip,orforbeanandcheesetacosorotheruses.
REFRIEDBEANS
12poundbacon,diced34cupdicedwhiteonion8clovesgarlic,minced
4jalapeopeppers,seedsandribsremoved,diced
2smallor1largetomato,diced
2(15-ounce)cansGoyaFrijolesNegrosorotherblackbeans
Saltandpepper
Freshcilantro,chopped(optional)
Inahotskillet,preferablycastiron,placethedicedbaconandcookuntilitlosestranslucencyandstartstocrisp,10to12minutes.Addtheonion,garlic,andjalapeos.Sautovermediumheatfor3to5minutes,untiltheystarttosoften,stirringoccasionallytoavoidburningthegarlic.Addthetomatoandcookforafewminutes,untilitstartstofallapart.Addthebeansandsautuntilthemixturethickens,7to10minutes.Addthesaltandpepperandcilantrototaste.Usinganimmersionblender,pureethebeansuntilmostlysmoothwithafewidentifiablewholeandpartialbeansremaining.Adjusttheseasoningasneeded.Continuetocookovermediumheatfor5minutes.Allowtocoolslightlybeforeserving.
CHIPS
Vegetableoil
12yellowcorntortillas,cutinhalf
Coarsesalt
Coverthebottomofadeepskilletwithabout12inchofvegetableoilandbringtoabout350F.Testtheoilbydroppingapieceoftortillaintoitifthetortillasizzlesandfloats,theoilisready.Ifitsinks,theoilisnothotenough.Frythetortillasinthehotoiluntilcrispy,about30secondsoneachside.Setonpapertowelstodrainandsprinklewithcoarsesaltwhilestillhot.
MOJITO
Anyonewhohasdinedinpublicinthehalf-decadeorsoimmediatelybeforeandaftertheturnoftherecentmillenniumnodoubthasrunintotheMojito.Thisearly-twentieth-centuryclassicstartedrearingitsheadagaininnightclubsinsuchcoastalcitiesasMiami,andsoonspreadtothelandlockedstates.Before
long,therewereentireCuban-themedbarsdevotedtothedrink,andeventuallyeverychainrestaurantineverysuburbservedsomeversionoftheMojito.Asthebartendersgrumbledatthenewtaskofstockingandmuddlingmint,thephenomenonoftheMojitomixemerged,andinmanyestablishmentsthedrinkwentthewayofsomanyofitscocktailbrethrenbeforeitthatis,downhillandfast.
ThetragedyoftheMojitospopulardemiseisunfortunatebecause,whenproperlymade,thedrinkisdelicious,andyoudbehard-pressedtofindsomethingmoresuitedtoourseeminglyendlesssummer.Freshlime,amplemint,andgoodrumarekey;SourmixandSprite,notsomuch.
3largesprigsfreshmint
34ounceSimpleSyrup
2ounceswhiterum
34ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice1to112ouncescarbonatedwaterLimewedge,forgarnish
Gentlymuddletwoofthemintsprigsandthesimplesyrupinthebottomofamixingglass.Addtherumandlimejuice.Adjusttheamountofsyruptotaste.Shaketheingredientsvigorouslywithicetochill.Strainintoanice-filledCollinsglasscrushediceisbest.Topwiththecarbonatedwater.Garnishwiththeremainingmintsprigandthelimewedgeandservewithastraw.Somedrinkersprefertoleavethemuddledmintintheglass;Iprefertostrainitout.Utilizingatoothpickafterasteakisaworthyendeavor,notsowithacocktail.
WATERMELONMOJITO
LikemostclassicSour-formulacocktails,theMojitoisaneasytargetformarket-freshimprovisation.Anynumberorcombinationoffreshfruitscanbemuddledwiththemintandotherherbstocreateaneasyseasonaltwist.Myfavoritesuchvariationismadewithwatermelon,whichtomeissynonymouswithsummerandalwaysintherefrigeratorduringitslongseason.
4largesprigsfreshmint
About12cupcubedandseededwatermelon
12to34ounceSimpleSyrup
112ounceswhiterum34ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice1to112ouncescarbonatedwaterLimewedge,forgarnish
Gentlymuddlethreeofthemintsprigsandthewatermelonwiththesimplesyrupinthebottomofamixingglass.Addtherumandlimejuiceandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Youmayneedtoadjusttheamountofsyrupdependingonhowsweetyourwatermelonis.Strainintoanice-filledCollinsglass.Topwiththecarbonatedwater.Garnishwiththeremainingmintsprigandthelimewedgeandservewithastraw.
CARBONATEDWATER
Whileabottleofcarbonatedwaterfromthegrocerystorewillgetthejobdone,Ipreferchargedwaterfromasodasiphon.Bottledbubblewaterespeciallyinplasticbottlestendstogoflatquickly,whereasasiphonofchargedwaterwillstayperkyinthefridgeforalongtime.Moreimportant,thewatercomingoutofasiphondoessowithforceandinvigoratesthedrinkfromthebottomup,asopposedtojustsittingonthetopoftheglass.ThestandardiSisodasiphonisreasonablyinexpensive,andisdefinitelycost-effectiveinthelongrun.Simplyfillthesiphonwithfilteredwater,chargewithaCO2cartridge,andrefrigerate.
PEARNOEL
Mostso-calledholidaycocktailstendtodrawonalimitedselectionofflavorspeppermint,
gingerbread,orcream.AfewyearsagoIwasaskedtocreateaholidaycocktailforTitosHandmadeVodkaanddecidedtodosomethingdifferent.Brightandcrispinsteadofheavyandcreamy,thiscocktailcapturestheflavoroftheseasonwithcrisppearandcitrusandabitofsavoryspice.ThenameisaplayonPreNol,theFrenchnameforSanta.
112ouncesTitosHandmadeVodka112ouncesMathildepearliqueur,orsimilar12ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice1barspoonSt.ElizabethAllspiceDram
Sliceoffreshpearorlemontwist,forga