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T R A V E L

Welcome to thelatest issue ofThe Travel &

Leisure Magazine. Withthe children back at schoolthe summer seems a dis-tant memory now, espe-cially as it didn’t live up tothe “barbeque summer”billing the Met Office hadoriginally predicted and

then had to sheepishly retract.But we can help you get back into the holi-

day spirit with lots of ideas for where to go andwhat to do, whether you are looking for some-where to spend a day with the family, take abreak or really push the boat out on a cruise orexotic, long-haul beach vacation.

In this issue, we explore the Canaries, Spain’ssunny Atlantic islands which make an ideal get-away destination any time of year. We visit theenchanting island of Sri Lanka, back in favourwith holidaymakers now that its civil war hasended. Canada’s cosmopolitan and easily-accessible city of Toronto comes under themicroscope for short-break holidays, whileWordsworth’s Lake District is the option forthose wanting a “staycation” – the year’s buzz-word.

Other topics cover golf around Portugal’scapital, Lisbon, cruises in the Middle East andIndian Ocean, holidays where you can learn todive, plus London’s street markets.

As the nights draw in, we hope it will helpgive you a sunnier outlook.

Peter Ellegard

FROMTHE EDITOR

SUNNY OUTLOOK

4 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

TorontoTourism

Sunvil

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 5

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COMPETITION 41WIN – a £1,500 holiday for two to the Azores IslandsREADER OFFER – special offer on Sunvil holidays to the Azores

OUT & ABOUT What’s on outside London 54WIN – one of 10 copies of Soup for All Occasions

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L E I S U R E

EDITORIAL TEAMEditor Peter EllegardWriters Peter Ellegard, Keeley Gordon, JulieStevens, Sara Macefield, Dave Richardson,Stephanie Sparrow and Adam CoulterDesign Nick BlaxillAdvertising Team Jeannette Cumbers, BeverleySennett & Elaine SmithAdmin/Accounts Wendy BarfootProduction Keeley Gordon, Loretta PrincePublisher Terry StaffordDigital Publisher Peter LewseyPublished bi-monthly byTravel & Leisure Magazines LtdFirst Floor, 103 Cranbrook Road,Ilford, Essex, IG1 4PUTel: 020 8477 1529 Fax: 020 8514 4536Email: info@tlmags.comPrinted by Wyndeham Heron© Travel & Leisure Magazines Limited 2009

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Travel & Leisure Magazines Limited is a completely inde-

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Front cover photo: Peter Ellegard

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Turespana

Celebrity

Cruises

6 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Islands at the end

Ithought of the diary of parishpriest Lorenzo Curbelo as I droveto Timanfaya National Park inLanzarote. “An enormous moun-tain emerged from the ground withflames coming from its summit,” he

wrote. “It continued burning for 19 days.Some days later, a new abyss developed andan avalanche of lava rushed down overTimanfaya. All the western beaches andshores were covered with an incrediblenumber of dead fish of all species – somewith shapes which islanders had neverknown before.”

That volcanic eruption must have seemedlike the end of the world back in 1730, espe-cially to farmers and fishermen living 800miles from their motherland in Spain. Theeruptions continued for six years and creat-ed many of the 300-plus volcanic cones in

Lanzarote, one of the seven Canary Islands.Volcanoes are one of many reasons why

people visit the Canaries, and the Teneguiavolcano in La Palma last erupted as recentlyas 1971. But the main draw for British peo-ple, who make over three million visits ayear, is the mild climate. That has led tomass tourism development in Tenerife, GranCanaria and, to a lesser extent, Lanzaroteand Fuerteventura. But there are still plentyof charming places away from the crowds.

The average temperature hovers around22ºC year-round, making the Canaries attrac-tive for a winter break only four hours’ flyingtime from the UK. But sunshine isn’t guaran-teed, and constant Atlantic winds mean win-ter days can be wet and a little chilly. In sum-mer, however, the plus side is that you don’tget the baking high temperatures you mightexperience in the Mediterranean.

The islands lie off the coast of NorthAfrica with Lanzarote, the most easterly,being only 60 miles from Morocco. Over200 miles to the west is little-visited ElHierro, once considered “the end of theknown world”. Columbus called in at someof the islands on his way to discover the newworld in 1492, and by 1496 they wereclaimed by the Spanish crown. The originalinhabitants, the Guanches, were a primitive,fair-skinned people who have left littletrace, apart from mummies in museums.

With beaches, dramatic landscapes andlots to see and do, the Canaries don’t deservetheir sometimes tacky image. Avoid half adozen of the biggest resorts and you’ll startto discover what makes them so distinctive.

TenerifeWhen I visited the Casa del Vino, a winemuseum and restaurant in a dramaticclifftop setting near the town of El Sauzal,it was full of locals rather than tourists. It’sone of the top restaurants in Tenerife, serv-ing delicacies such as stewed rabbit accom-panied by wines from the nearby hillsides.

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 7

of theWORLD

Millions flock to the Canary Islands every year for winter-sunholidays, yet as Dave Richardson reveals, there is far more to

these volcanic marvels than mass tourism resorts

CANARY ISLANDS

getting to KNOW

Mainpciture:Turespana

� Taking in the spectacular viewat Senderismo, La Palma

Tenerife’s government has introduced agastronomy plan – not just for visitors but tokeep alive traditions for its own people, whostart learning at school rather than gettingstuck into turkey twizzlers.

The largest and most popular of the CanaryIslands is only about 70 miles from north tosouth, yet it has two distinctive climates cour-tesy of Mount Teide which, at 12,195ft, is thehighest peak on Spanish soil. The high vol-canic crater surrounding the mountain trapsthe clouds, giving the north a mild but dampclimate with lush vegetation, as in the Orotavavalley with its banana plantations.

In the north are the elegant resort ofPuerto de la Cruz (no beach but an attractivelido) and the modern capital, Santa Cruz,which stages a chaotic and colourful carni-val claimed to be the largest in the worldafter Rio (February 12-21 next year). Theformer capital of La Laguna is nearby, witha church dating from 1502 and some lovely18th century mansions and convent.

A motorway takes you from Puerto de laCruz or Santa Cruz to the south in less thanan hour, passing Tenerife South airport,which is used by all flights from the UK.The south is dry, absolutely barren andmuch hotter than the north, with most masstourism concentrated in the big resorts ofPlaya de las Americas and Los Cristianos.More up-market resorts include Adeje andLos Gigantes, and throughout the south arefive-star hotels, often with spas and some-times golf courses attached.

Tenerife is the most diverse island but itsbeaches are a disappointment, being mainlysmall and of dark volcanic sand. The goldenbeach at Teresitas, near Santa Cruz, usessand shipped in from the Sahara, but there’s

plenty to do rather than laze all day on abeach. Drive above the clouds to MountTeide and ride a cable car to the top, thentake the steep road down to Garachico, a lit-tle port with 18th century buildings andgreat fish restaurants.

Gran CanariaThis is probably the best choice for lovers ofbeach resorts, as the south has great expans-es of golden sand including the vast dunes ofMaspalomas. But beaches inevitably attractbig development, and the few miles runningfrom San Agustin to Playa del Ingles andMaspalomas are highly urbanised.

Raucous nightlife makes Playa del Inglesespecially popular with young people andgays. If you are neither and not broad mindedthen choose another area – the dunes aredescribed as “very cruisey” by one website,and we’re not talking about ships. Quieterresorts in the south include Puerto Rico and themore-recently developed Puerto de Mogan.

Gran Canaria has a similar but less-marked north/south climatic split to Tenerife,but it’s worth visiting the north if only to seeLas Palmas; the largest city and port in theCanaries, it is home to about 375,000 people.It’s good for shopping, and most of the histo-ry is in the Barrio Vegueta district, which hasa 16th century cathedral, the Canary IslandsMuseum and Columbus Museum.

The mountainous interior is traversed byone main route, which is well worth takingto discover a variety of landscapes that hasgiven Gran Canaria the moniker “continentin miniature”. Deep ravines, fertile valleys,artificial lakes and the Bandama crater arethe highlights, with pretty villages such asTafira and Tejada. You can take an organised

8 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Food and wineYou’ll be lucky to find Canaries wine inBritain, whereas 400 years ago plenty wasimported – especially sweet Malvasia.Nowadays the limited production is

consumed locally, but wine museums inTenerife and Lanzarote focus on itsimportance.White wines are the morerefined, and the islands also produce rum.Cuisine is mainly fish based but also

includes stews made from pork, chickenor rabbit. Most typical dishes are servedwith salted new potatoes boiled in theirskins, and accompanied by red or greenmojo sauce made with paprika orcoriander. Gofio is a cornmeal used tothicken soups and stews.Spanish and international cuisines are

widely available, especially in resorts.Turespana

Turespana

� Timanfaya National Park on Lanzarote

“The Canariesdon’t deserve

their sometimestacky image”

� Cafe culture in Las Palmas

4x4 trip to go off-road, or a walking holidaystaying at small, rural hotels a world awayfrom the coast.

LanzaroteDespite reading what the priest had to sayabout the 1730 eruption, nothing preparedme for the bleakly-impressive TimanfayaNational Park, or Fire Mountain. The well-worn “lunar landscape” cliché is actually agood way of describing the devastationwrought by the volcano, as much of theisland is covered by black lava which isused for buildings and walls and contrastspleasantly with whitewashed houses andblue sky.

Timanfaya is not an experience you canenjoy in solitude, however, as it’s Lanzarote’sleading attraction. You drive up a mountainto a visitor centre and restaurant where meatsare grilled over the intense heat still comingup from the earth, and where water pouredinto a hole shoots up as a plume of scaldingsteam just seconds later. The temperature justbelow the surface is 350ºC – more thanenough to do your sausages nicely.

But to view the most impressive volcanoyou have to pile into a bus with dozens ofothers, and listen to a recorded commentarywhile “weird” music such as the soundtrackto 2001: A Space Odyssey is played.Although it’s more atmospheric to trek partof the way up on a camel, the views aremore impressive on the bus tour.

Don’t think Lanzarote is a wasteland, asthere is some greenery in the north and thevolcanic grit is very fertile; it is used to growvines and vegetables around villages of theinterior such as Yaiza and Teguise. Plants areprotected from the prevailing winds by littlesemi-circular walls – made from lava, ofcourse. Lava flows also created the Jameosde Agua caves, another major attraction.

Lanzarote also has golden sandy beaches,the main resorts being Puerto del Carmen,Playa Blanca and Costa Teguise. There areno huge tourist complexes or high-risescomparable with Tenerife or Gran Canaria,but development is marching steadilytowards the virgin beaches of Papagayo,near Playa Blanca on the southern tip. Acourt ruled last year that 22 of the island’smajor hotels had been built illegally withtown hall corruption suspected, but it’s high-ly unlikely any will be demolished as somecampaigners demand.

FuerteventuraAlthough it is the second largest island, it’salso the least populated, with only about30,000 inhabitants. Lack of water, poor agri-cultural land and coastal erosion are the main

10 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

ActivitiesSea sports are popular, Gran Canaria and Fuerteventura being famous for windsurfingwith world championships held in both islands. Fuerteventura is the best choice fordiving, from Barlovento and Sotavento, with up to 400 species of fish on the coastalshelf.Hiking is popular on the mountainous islands, especially Gran Canaria and La Palma

but also in Tenerife.Volcanoes, dormant or active, can be viewed on most islands butespecially Lanzarote,Tenerife and La Palma.The islands have 600 native plant species, andbotanical gardens in Tenerife and Gran Canaria.The islands’ mild climate makes them ideal for golf.Tenerife has nine courses at eight

clubs including Spain’s second-oldest club, while Gran Canaria has half a dozen 18-holecourses and Spain’s oldest golf club – Real Club de Golf de Las Palmas – which wasfounded in 1891.

Turespana

Turespana

� Camel riding on Lanzarote’s “Fire Mountain”

� Puerto Mogan, Gran Canaria

reasons for this, but the big attraction for vis-itors is simple – sand, sand and more sand.

In parts of the island you can’t tell wherethe beach ends and the dunes begin, as itresembles the Sahara. Many of the 150beaches are so long you’re almost guaran-teed a spot to yourself, and development isso far limited, mainly to Jandia in the farsouth, and around Corralejo in the north.

Fuerteventura is very popular for wind-surfing and also diving, including the off-shore Isla de los Lobos. Inland there’slittle to see, but the former capital ofBetancuria, now a sleepy village, isworth a visit.

La GomeraYou can’t fly directly to this island, but it’seasily reached from Los Cristianos inTenerife by hydrofoil (40 minutes) or ferry(90 minutes).

Its popularity for day trips makes the portand capital, San Sebastian, crowded duringthe day, but once the trippers have gone itbecomes, like the whole island, very tran-quil.

Even on a day trip you should try to seesome of the interior, climbing throughbanana plantations built on steep terraces todeep, wooded ravines.

The Garajonay National Park is on a highplateau, with extensive forests of laurel and

many unique botanical specimens. Playa deSantiago, with a pebble beach, is

the only resort ofnote.

La PalmaWhen I stayed at a small hotel in Barloventoin the north of La Palma, I was surprised thatmost of the guests trooped off after breakfastkitted out with hiking boots and rucksacks.But exploring is what this island is all about,and the landscapes are spectacular.

It was just as well I hadn’t come for sun-shine, as the eastern side of the island isoften damp. The western side is sunnier, butoften battered by Atlantic winds. PuertoNaos (west) and Los Cancajos (east) aresmall resorts with strips of dark sand, butyou’re making a mistake if you come herefor a beach holiday.

La Palma’s three national parks includethe Caldera de Taburiente, a hugevolcanic crater over six miles

wide and nearly 5,000ft deep. Inthe south is the Teneguia volcano,

which last erupted in 1971 and will

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 11

Family funTenerife and Gran Canaria are the bestchoices for families, as they have themeattractions in addition to beach facilitiesand hotels catering for younger children.Loro Parque, near Puerto de la Cruz in

Tenerife, is a world leader in parrotconservation and has many other wildlifeexhibits and shows, including penguins.Siam Park is a new theme attractionbased on Thailand, in southern Tenerife.Fun boat trips include whale watchingcruises which operate year-round fromLos Cristianos, to spot a large group ofresident pilot whales and also bottle-nosed dolphins.In Gran Canaria, families will enjoy

Palmitos Park for birds and tropicalplants, and a replica of aWildWest towncalled Sioux City.

Turespana

TenerifeTourism

Corporation

Tenerife Tourism Corporation

� Puerto del Carmen beach, Lanzarote

� Sunset over Tenerife’s Mount Teide

erupt again one day. At present, though,all looks very peaceful…..

El HierroFew people have visited this western out-post, only reachable by internal flight orferry. The smallest and most remote of theCanaries has no sandy beaches and a rockycoastline punctuated by cliffs, attracting afew divers and hikers wanting to experiencethe fertile El Golfo crater. We now know itisn’t “the end of the known world”, but itprobably feels like it.

12 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Canaries facts

Dave Richardson has made over 100 visitsto Spain in his 30-plus years as a travelwriter. He first visited Tenerife when Playade las Americas was in its infancy and allaround it was arid scrub, in contrast totoday’s big hotel developments.

TL

Did you know?� A BBC Horizon programme described

La Palma as “a geological time bomb”which could collapse into the seaafter another volcanic eruption.Whenthis happens, it said, a mega-tsunamiwould devastate the US easternseaboard within hours.

� “Canary” wines are mentioned twiceby Shakespeare – in Twelfth Night andThe MerryWives ofWindsor. Largequantities were imported in the1500s and 1600s, to a London docknow famous as CanaryWharf.

� People living in La Gomera’s remoteinterior devised a whistling “language”to communicate across deep ravines.

� The islands are named not after birdsbut the large dogs – Canis in Latin –found by early explorers.

When to goYear-round, as temperatures are fairly constant.

Getting thereLow-cost airlines are expanding and most otherflights are charters. Flights operate to TenerifeSouth and Gran Canaria (Las Palmas) from mostUK airports, while Lanzarote and Fuerteventura are now gaining moreroutes. Monarch Airlines (www.monarch.co.uk) is operating an extra 64flights a week to the Canaries this winter including new departures fromGatwick and Luton to Gran Canaria and Fuerteventura. EasyJet(www.easyjet.com) is adding Stansted to Fuerteventura, while Aer Lingus(www.aerlingus.com) adds Gatwick-Tenerife South. Other major carriersinclude Ryanair (www.ryanair.com),Thomson Airways(www.thomsonfly.co.uk) and Thomas Cook Airlines(www.thomascookairlines.co.uk).Thomson operates the only directflights to La Palma, from Gatwick and Manchester.

Tour operatorsThese include Thomson (www.thomson.co.uk),Thomas Cook(www.thomascook.com), Classic Collection (www.classic-collection.co.uk), Prestige Holidays (www.prestigeholidays.co.uk) andCadogan (www.cadoganholidays.com). Hotel-only bookings can be madethrough Monarch (http://hotels.monarch.co.uk) andYoutravel.com(www.youtravel.com).

Getting aroundCar hire is widely available, and bus services link maintowns and resorts.All islands are served by BinterCanarias (www.bintercanarias.com) flights frombases at Tenerife North (note – UK flights operate toTenerife South) and Las Palmas. Inter-island ferriesserve routes including Santa Cruz (Tenerife) to

Agaete (Gran Canaria); Los Cristianos (Tenerife) to La Gomera, La Palmaand El Hierro; and Playa Blanca (Lanzarote) to Corralejo (Fuerteventura).One of the main ferry operators is Fred Olsen (www.fredolsen.es).

Tourist informationSpanish Tourist Office: 020 7486 8077,www.tourspain.co.uk

Turespana

Panel photos:Tenerife Tourism Corporation

� Dunes at Maspalomas, Gran Canaria

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 13

14 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Haute cuisine is perhapsnot the first thing thatsprings to mind when youthink of Canada. But dur-ing a recent visit to thecountry’s biggest city the

dining experience was, in every sense, oneof the high points of my stay.

It was my first time back in Toronto forsome 15 years and my wife’s first visit toanywhere in Canada, and dinner on our firstnight had been arranged at one of the city’slandmarks – 1,150 feet up in revolving 360Restaurant on the iconic CN Tower(www.cntower.ca).

I wondered whether I should have toldmy hosts of my morbid fear of heights as werocketed skywards in the lift up what wasthe world’s tallest building for 32 years (it

stands over 1,800 feet high at its tip). And aswe were led to a table next to the floor-to-ceiling windows and handed the menu, I pri-vately mused whether I might make only apassing acquaintanceship with my foodbefore needing a quick trip to the bathroom.

Yet the view was so amazing as we slowlyturned full circle, all negative thoughts andpanic totally vanished. The city was laid outbelow us like a toytown model, the modernglass and steel skyscrapers shimmering in theglorious setting sun, dwarfing grand, olderedifices, many of them overlooking LakeOntario. From our man-made eyrie I couldsee why Toronto was nicknamed Queen City.

Tiny sailboats bobbed on the calm watersof the lake, which stretched as far as the eyecould see. The usually-busy ferry servicelinking the city with offshore Toronto Islandwas idle, thanks to a strike by city municipalworkers. But the Toronto City CentreAirport on the island’s western end buzzedwith the frequent arrival and departure ofaircraft. And as the sun disappeared, the cityturned into a twinkling fairyland.

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 15

TORONTO

ESCAPE to…

Canada’s largest city has many highlights for visitors

– not least dining over 1,000ft high. Peter Ellegard

goes up in the world to report

Queen cityon the lake

OTMPC

PeterEllegard

� Towering over the lake

�Architecturalblends indowntownToronto

16 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

All the while, we had enjoyed a sumptu-ous feast of dishes highlighting producefrom Ontario and Eastern Canada, washeddown by one of the more than 550 Canadianand international wines from its “cellar inthe sky”. Executive chef Peter George andhis team serve up food of the highest order –pun intended. Then, after a visit to the SkyPod (the world’s second-highest observationdeck) for some photographs and a fleetingone to the glass-floored observation deck(where I kept my eyes firmly shut), we werewhisked back down to earth in a glass-sidedelevator (eyes closed again). Terra firmanever felt more welcome.

We were lucky to have chosen our firstevening to visit the CN Tower. The weatherturned the next day, and for the rest of ourToronto stay it was often sheathed in rainclouds. Unseasonal for July, we were told.But then I can make it rain anywhere I travel.

Next morning, we left our city-centrehotel on a walking tour with one of the mostknowledgeable and engaging guides I haveever met. Historian Bruce Bell is more thana guide, he is a Toronto legend. Thanks tohis tenacity and campaigning, many notableold buildings and sites in the heart of themetropolis are now celebrated with historicmarker plaques as part of the Bruce BellHistory Project.

They include Toronto’s old jail, in thebasement below bustling St LawrenceMarket – once the city hall – where he tookus to show us chain rings still bolted to thebrick walls. We walked through unassumingbank buildings to marvel at their unseenarchitectural splendour inside, from stuccoceilings and chandeliers to grandiose statuesand wooden carvings. In their day, at thebeginning of the 20th century, they were thecitadels of this brave new world across theAtlantic. Many were torn down in the nameof progress, as with most cities. Some are nolonger banks; one of the grandest of them allnow housing the Hockey Hall of Fame.

We also toured the city’s opulent UnionStation and, just opposite, the elegant interi-or of another city landmark, the FairmontRoyal York hotel. Bruce revealed he workedthere as an elevator operator in the early1970s. Years later, he has been made thehotel’s honorary historian.

The tour continued on to the historicDistillery District (www.thedistillerydistrict.com),its old warehouses now a collection ofcafes and boutique stores where you cantake Segway tours, and ended with a cabride to the Royal Ontario Museum(www.rom.on.ca), or ROM as it is affec-tionately known.

In a city of striking architecture, it is one

Niagara and the fallsNo visit toToronto would be complete without a side trip to the awe-inspiring NiagaraFalls.They are just 90 minutes by road around Lake Ontario, and you can rent a car tovisit, take a train or bus, or book an excursion tour.Nothing can prepare you for the awesome power and noise of the mighty falls. One-

fifth of the world’s fresh water cascades over them, 98% of over Horseshoe Falls.You canget a close-up view of the torrents from theTable Rock terrace, while the Journey Behindthe Falls tour has elevators taking you deep into the rock to viewing decks beneath theroaring curtain of water.

You get a waterproof poncho to keepyou dry, as you do aboard the Maid of theMist, the evergreen boat tour which hasbeen drenching passengers in Niagara’sspray for 160 years.A popular newattraction at the Niagara Fallsentertainment complex atTable Rock isNiagara’s Fury, an exciting simulatorshowing how the falls were created.You canalso dine in style overlooking the

Horseshoe Falls cascade at the new Elements on the Falls restaurant in the complex.Undoubtedly the most spectacular way to experience Niagara’s majesty is by flying high

overhead on a helicopter tour.Niagara Helicopters operates flightseeing tours of the fallsfrom its base, just downriver. Nearby you can also feel the might of the Niagara River ontheWhiteWaterWalk, while you can experience the swirling waters of theWhirlpoolsuspended high above on theWhirlpool Aero Car, which first opened in 1916, or bygetting wet and wild aboard theWhirlpool Jet Boats.In the evenings, watch Niagara Falls lit up by illuminations and regular fireworks displays.

In winter, they become even more magicalwhen cloaked in ice.You can also explorethe town with its many restaurants andattractions, and stay in hotels overlookingthe falls in quieter streets behind.The Niagara Peninsula is a fertile region

of vineyards and orchards. Spend timeleisurely following a wine trail and visitinghistoric Niagara-on-the-Lake as well asstopping off at a winery for brunch and tobuy local produce.

OTMPC

PeterEllegard

PeterEllegard

� Maid of theMist at the footof the falls

� WhirlpoolAero Car

� Fireworksover the falls

of the most striking buildings of all. Thefuturistic Michael Lee-Chin Crystal wing wasgrafted on to the venerable, ornate Italianatemuseum and opened in 2007 to mixedreviews. Opinion is still divided today. Youeither love it, or you hate it. I must admit,while the exterior is undoubtedly breathtak-ing, I found the ultra-modern angles juttinginto the 95-year-old building rather ugly.

However, the museum houses the world’s

largest collection of fossils and, as youwould expect of Canada’s largest museum ofnatural history and global culture, is packedfull of galleries where you can lose yourselffor hours. We visited the fascinating DeadSea Scrolls exhibit, which is on untilJanuary 3, 2010.

Another old Toronto institution which hasundergone an avant-garde makeover is theArt Gallery of Ontario (www.ago.net) –

known, of course, as AGO. Toronto’s ownFrank Gehry – the architect celebrated forstructures including Bilbao’s GuggenheimMuseum – was commissioned to transformand expand it. The result was unveiled inNovember 2008 and is utterly mesmerising,from its titanium and glass south wing to thesinuous spiral stairway and wooden GalleriaItalia. The museum houses art ranging fromOld Masters and Renaissance treasures to

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 17

Ontario’slake districtLess than three hours north of Toronto isOntario’s own lake district, the holidayregion of Muskoka.This is where anyonewho is anyone in Canada, and many aHollywood star as well, has a cottage – inreality luxury homes – alongside one ofits thousands of lakes. Most people comehere to rent smaller cabins for a few days.The Rosseau Resort & Spa is a new

oasis of luxury set on a granite bluffoverlooking the sublimely-beautiful LakeRosseau in 700 acres of private wildernesspreserve. A JW Marriott property andpart of the upmarket Red Leaves

development which also includes adjacentNick Faldo-designed golf course,TheRock, the final phase opened in August.

Underlining the region’s star appeal, theday I was playing golf on the Faldo courseI missed Kurt Russell wandering aroundthe hotel lobby (he and wife Goldie Hawnhave a cottage in the area).My wife and I took a canoe to paddle

around a nearby island and get a close-upview of its palatial cottages, and watchedan old steam ship moor at the hotel’sdock on a brief stop.We also toured thearea, visiting quaint towns, dining atdockside restaurants and watching thrill-seeking youngsters jump off a railwaybridge into a lake and hurl themselvesinto raging rapids, thankfully protected bylifejackets.A Muskoka side trip is highly

recommended.

PeterEllegard

OTMP

� Old and bold,The RoyalOntario Museum

� Muskoka chairs

modern art and sculptures, but I foundmyself staring more at the building than itscontents at times. The queue for the extendedevening opening stretched around the corneras it was free entry, yet nobody minded.

One of our favourite city excursions wasto Casa Loma (www.casaloma.org), anextravagant 98-room castle built by entre-preneur Sir Henry Pellatt.

Besides its many museums, among oth-ers the Ontario Science Centre(www.ontariosciencecentre.ca) andMuseum of Inuit Art (www.miamuseum.ca),Toronto boasts the world’s third-largest the-atre district, and in a short break you cancatch top productions such as The Sound ofMusic.

The city is also a pulsating cultural meltingpot; a world within a city where immigrantshave created a kaleidoscope of ethnic neigh-bourhoods. They include four Chinatowns, aGreektown, a Little India and a Little Italy,which is more Portuguese these days.

As the fifth most populous city in NorthAmerica and capital of Ontario (but notCanada – that is Ottawa, also in Ontario),shopping is a major pastime in Toronto. Youcan flash cash and credit cards at severalshopping centres, including the sprawlingEaton Centre. And even the bone-chillingwinters are no barrier. This is troglodytecity; its downtown is linked by nearly 17miles of underground walkways which form

the PATH system. A word of warning,though – it is easy to get disorientated in themaze of corridors, as we did. We had to berescued by a friend whose bank building wewere trying, and failing, to find.

Having scaled Toronto’s highs and gotlost in its lows, I found a city which hadchanged out of all recognition from my pre-vious visit. I won’t leave it 15 years before Ipay a return visit.

18 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Toronto facts

TL

When to goAny time of year. Summers are warm and late spring to early autumn isbest for exploring beyond Toronto.Winters are bitter, but Niagara Falls isspectacular sheathed in ice and Toronto has underground walkways.

Getting thereBritish Airways (www.ba.com) and Air Canada (www.aircanada.com)fly to Toronto from Heathrow, year-round. Flights are also offered year-round from Gatwick by Canadian Affair (www.canadianaffair.com), usingpartner carriers Thomas Cook Airlines and Air Transat, and by Flyglobespan(www.flyglobespan.co.uk) to nearby Hamilton.

AccommodationAmong Toronto hotels are the Hyatt RegencyToronto (www.torontoregency.hyatt.com), inthe city centre, close to the theatre district, andthe historic Fairmont Royal York(www.fairmont.com/royalyork). Niagara Fallshas several big hotels overlooking the falls, somewith casinos. For a quieter stay an easy walkfrom the falls, try the boutique Old Stone Inn (www.oldstoneinn.on.ca).In Muskoka, stay at The Rosseau, Canada’s first JW Marriott Resort & Spa(www.jwrosseau.com).

Tour operatorsOperators offering short breaks include Frontier Canada (www.frontier-canada.co.uk), Canadian Affair (www.canadianaffair.com),ThomasCook (www.thomascook.co.uk), Flyglobespan(www.flyglobespan.co.uk), 1st Class Holidays(www.1stclassholidays.com), Key 2 Holidays(www.key2holidays.co.uk) and Tailor Made Holidays(www.tailor-made.co.uk).

Getting around/attractionsToronto has excellent public transport including buses, streetcars and asubway system with four lines. Save money by buying blocks of tickets,single-day or week passes from the Toronto Transit Commission(www.ttc.ca).Walking tours: Bruce Bell Tours (www.brucebelltours.ca).Niagara Parks (www.niagaraparks.com) operates many of the NiagaraFalls attractions, including the People Mover Bus which links major sites. Acombined Adventure Pass gives 40% savings on fourtop attractions. Fly high with Niagara Helicopters(www.niagarahelicopters.com). Rent a carto explore Niagara and Muskoka from DollarCar Rental (www.dollar.co.uk).

Tourist informationOntario Tourism:www.ontariotravel.net/ukToronto Tourism:www.tourismtoronto.comCanadian Tourism Commission: 0870 380 0070,http://uk.canada.travel

OTMPC

PeterEllegard

OTMPC

� Casa Loma

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 19

It was 4am on a late October morn-ing and I was being driven fromColombo Airport by my guide,Janaka, after the 10-hour flight fromLondon. It seemed everyone in thissouth-western corner of Sri Lanka

was slumbering as we passed through townafter deserted town en route to my hotel atHikkaduwa beach resort.

Then, as we rounded a bend it was asthough the whole island had come alive.Hundreds of people were lining the roadsideand, in their midst, a procession was snakingits way past them and swaying to the beat ofdrums. Despite the blackness of the night,the costumed participants were clearly visi-ble as many of them were holding flamingtorches and lanterns, lighting up the crowdas well.

Driving slowly past the fiery human chain,Janaka explained that this was a procession tomark the start of Deepavali, or Diwali as it isalso called – the Hindu festival of lights. Atthe front, several dancers were twirling large,wooden six-pointed stars, the extended points

20 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Land ofsmiles

With the long civil war nowover and the tragedy of the

Indian Ocean tsunami afading memory, there is a new

sense of optimism in SriLanka and its gracious people

have reason to smile again.

Peter Ellegard reports

PeterEllegard

of which were alight so that as they span theyresembled giant Catherine wheels.

It was a breathtaking way to arrive on anisland I had long wanted to visit, my desirefuelled since childhood by images of goldensandy beaches, lush tea plantations, exoticwildlife and rich culture.

My anticipation was tinged with apprehen-sion, too. Less than two years earlier, theisland’s south-west had suffered unimaginabledevastation and more than 30,000 lives hadbeen lost in the infamous 2004 Boxing Daytsunami. Violence had also started to flareagain in the long civil war which had ravagednorthern and eastern areas.

It seemed fitting that Sri Lanka wasteardrop-shaped; so many tears had been shedby and for its people in recent years.

Yet what I encountered as I toured theisland was far removed from my fears. I didwitness some of the horrific aftermath of thetsunami, including the twisted wreckage ofthe Queen of the Sea train, in which 1,500

died when it was engulfed as it passed throughthe village of Peraliya just 2.5 miles north ofHikkaduwa, making it the world’s worst-evertrain disaster. I also saw the shells of wreckedhomes in the village where another 1,000 peo-ple had died – and where, unbelievably, a rebel

Tamil Tiger suicide bomber blew up a bus andkilled nine people just weeks after my visit.

But I also saw the revitalisation of beachresorts and rebuilding of shattered communi-ties under programmes funded by internation-al governments, aid agencies and charities.

Indomitable spiritAnd I was deeply touched by the indomitablespirit of the island’s people. They showed anunshakeable resilience and optimism to matchtheir gracious hospitality, legendary friendli-ness and warm smiles. I found it quite disarm-ing at times; even those I spoke to who hadlost family members and homes in the tsuna-mi were confident Sri Lanka would bounceback from that and from its bloody civil war.That optimism has proved correct.

With the conflict ending this year, peacehas now returned to this enchanting island andwhile the tsunami will never be forgotten, theregeneration is helping to heal its scars. Theislanders have reason to smile again.

The new era of peace is now bringingtourists surging back to its beautiful beachesand historic cities, and Sri Lanka’s touristoffice is promoting the island with a rebrand-ed image and slogan – “Sri Lanka, SmallMiracle” – highlighting the island’s easyaccessibility and amazing diversity.

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 21

“The new era ofpeace is now

bringing touristssurging back”

SRI LANKA

off the beaten TRACK

PeterEllegard

PeterEllegard

Peter Ellegard� The beach at Hikkaduwa

� Fire walkwith me:Deepavaliprocession

� Stilt fisherman � Tea pickers inSri Lanka’s hill

country

PeterEllegard

I saw much of the island’s diverse attractionsduring my action-packed visit, which alsoincluded taking part in the annual two-day SriLankan Golf Classic tournament at VictoriaGolf Club, in the hilly, green interior.

Stunning beachesI walked barefoot on stunning beaches in thesouth-west, their beautiful sands devoid ofother footprints. Off one beach, stilt fishermenperched precariously on poles as they dangledhooks from outstretched rods, then enthusias-tically showed me the tiddlers they were land-ing. It hardly seemed worth the discomfort.

I watched other fishermen launch outrig-ger craft into the crashing surf from beachesnear Galle, the pushers laughing and jokingwhen the boats hit waves, drenching theiroccupants. Galle itself is fascinating toexplore. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, itis a small town full of wonderful old buildingsset within the ramparts of a fort built by thePortuguese. The Dutch made it the headquar-ters of the Dutch East India Company afterwinning it in 1640, before it was taken in turnby the British in 1796.

Inland from the south-west’s beaches youcan visit cinnamon plantations and gemstonemines, little more than shafts dug deep into thealluvial soil where moonstones and othergems are sifted from the extracted silt.

Leopards and elephantsOn the south-east coast, Yala National Park isone of 14 national parks in Sri Lanka and oneof the best places in the world to see leopards.Sadly, they eluded me on my visit. However, Idid see plenty of other inhabitants, includingcrocodiles, monkeys, peacocks and elephants.Even here is a stark reminder of the tsunami.Alongside the remains of the park ranger'shouse which once stood by the beach, a stain-less steel sculpture graphically depicts thedestructive waves.

Before 1800, Sri Lanka had around 15,000wild elephants. Today, protected parks are theonly places to see them in the wild. UdaWalawe National Park is home to some 500,while up to 300 at a time can be seen inMinneriya National Park. But a must on anyitinerary is the Pinnawela ElephantOrphanage, 80km north-east of the capital,Colombo. Set up by the government in 1975to care for injured and orphaned elephants, itis home to 70 elephants and is one of Sri

Lanka’s most popular tourist attractions. Twicea day, the herd is led to a river where the ani-mals bathe in front of tourists, who can payextra to have their pictures taken with them orfeed them. Stars of the show are always thetiniest youngsters. They melt your heart.

In the island's centre, Kandy is home to SriLanka’s most important Buddhist relic – atooth of Buddha himself. It is housed in theTemple of the Tooth, in a beautiful, forestedlake-side setting. The spectacular, annual

22 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Chill or thrillFrom sedentary to full-on, a holiday in SriLanka can be as relaxing or action-packedas you want.If you want to chill out, some of the

best beaches on the planet stretch fromthe far south up the west coast toNegombo, north of capital Colombo. Bepampered with Ayurveda wellnesstreatments, based on the ancient belief ofensuring the five elements are broughtinto harmony.You can have sessions in atraditional, local centre or in a spa at aluxury beach-side resort.The island has several golf clubs open to

visitors, from the cooler hills of NuwaraEliya to the country’s oldest course, theRoyal Colombo Golf Club

(www.rcgcsl.com), founded in 1879.Golfers have to stop to let trains cross thefairway on one hole.Being an island, water activities abound.

Dive on beautiful reefs or explore cavesand wrecks off the south and west coasts.Kayaking and white-water rafting arepopular.You can even raft past the hillcountry village used as the setting for theclassic wartime film, The Bridge on the RiverKwai.You can go whale and dolphin watching

along the south and west coasts. Primetime is November to March.And you canview Sri Lanka’s natural majesty from theair on hot air balloon or helicopter trips.

PeterEllegard

SriLankaTouristBoard

� Encounter at Pinnawela Elephant orphanage

� Taking an Ayurveda spa bath

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 23

Esala Perahera festival in July or August is inhonour of the sacred tooth, which is carriedaround Kandy in a golden casket. It involvesfire-dancers, drummers and tusker elephantsadorned with elaborate costumes and coveredin tiny lights. While in Kandy, I went to a cul-tural performance of music and Kandiandance, which culminated in fire-eaters walk-ing across a pit of blazing coals as monsoonrains lashed down.

By contrast, the atmosphere in the hilltoptown of Nuwara Eliya south of Kandy andalmost 2,000 metres above sea level was posi-tively serene. A world away from the rest ofSri Lanka, the lush mountains of this area arewhere the British built hill stations to escapethe heat of lower regions and grow tea.

Tea plantationsPlantations of vivid green tea bushes aredraped across every available slope andarmies of women still pick the tender, youngleaves by hand, putting them in baskets slungon their backs held by straps over their heads.You can visit factories to see how the tea isprocessed, try different blends and buy someto take home. You can even stay in an old teafactory which has been turned into a hotel.

Nuwara Eliya itself is like stepping back intime, and is often called Little England for itsatmosphere and architecture. North of Kandy,the towering Sigiriya rock has the remains ofan ancient royal palace at its summit. SriLanka’s capital for over 1,500 years,Anuradhapura, is a UNESCO World HeritageSite sacred to Buddhists and the well-preservedruins include several huge, white dagobas.Polonnaruwa also features ancient Sinhaleseruins, among them giant Buddha statues.

Whatever you choose to do and see in SriLanka, your visit will overwhelm both yoursenses and your emotions. Just as mine did.

24 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

TL

Sri Lanka facts

When to goSri Lanka enjoys sunshine year-round.The best time tovisit the south-west’s beaches is from November toApril, the rainy season being May-September.Temperatures hit a high of 31ºC on the coast, andrange from 18-22ºC in hilly Nuwara Eliya.

Getting thereSriLankan Airlines (www.srilankan.aero) flies direct from London tocapital Colombo. Emirates (www.emirates.com) operates flights fromLondon to Colombo via Dubai, Qatar Airways (www.qatarairways.com)via Doha and Etihad (www.etihadairways.com) via Abu Dhabi.

Getting aroundHiring a car with a driver to explore the island is relatively cheap.You canalso travel cheaply by train, with routes operated by Sri Lanka Railways(www.railway.gov.lk).

AccommodationOptions range from budget hotels to luxury brands. Notable hotels includeColombo’s Galle Face Hotel (www.gallefacehotel.com), open since 1864with guests including Lord Mountbatten, Nehru and US President RichardNixon.The boutique Amangalla (www.amanresorts.com),in the heart of Galle’s fort, and theVil Uyana eco-retreat(www.jetwing.com) below Sigirya’s rock are others.

Tour operatorsOperators featuring Sri Lanka includeWorldwideDirect Holidays (www.worldwideholidays.co.uk),Virgin Holidays (www.virginholidays.co.uk), SomakHolidays (www.somak.com), Key2holidays (www.key2holidays.co.uk),Premier Holidays (www.premierholidays.co.uk), First Choice(www.firstchoice.co.uk), Kuoni (www.kuoni.co.uk), Cox & Kings(www.coxandkings.com),Thomson (www.thomsonworldwide.com)and Monarch Holidays (www.monarchholidays.co.uk).

Tourist informationVisit Sri Lanka Tourism’s website on www.srilanka.travel or call 0845 8806333.

Allphotos:PeterEllegard

� Temple of the Tooth at Kandy

� Fire-walking at Kandy

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 25

TRAVEL update

Celebrate the 250thanniversary of Ireland’sfamous “black stuff”and take an autumnbreak to Dublin.Theactual anniversary,known as Arthur’s Day,is on September 24 –250 years to the day ofthe signing of the leaseat the St James’s GateBrewery by ArthurGuinness.To mark the

occasion, Irish Ferrieshas special deals onshort breaks until theend of the year, withtwo-night city breaksstarting from £125 perperson and some third-night-free offers.Three-night breaks start at£199 per person. Dealsinclude return ferrytravel and city-centreaccommodation with

breakfast.While in Dublin, head

to the Guinness GravityBar on the seventh floorof the brewery’sGuinness Storehouse fora pint and a 360-degreepanoramic view. Formore information on theferry breaks, go towww.irishferries.co.ukor call 08717 300 400.

For a break with a differ-ence, why not stay in oneof three ice hotels this

winter? This will be the 20thseason of Sweden’s Icehotel,the largest hotel made com-pletely of snow and ice. Thetemperature in its 80 rooms andsuites ranges between -5ºC and-8ºC – positively balmy com-pared with outside temperatureswhich can drop to -37ºC.

Situated in Jukkasjarvi, 200kminside the Arctic Circle, it is nowalmost 100 times the size of theoriginal, which spanned 60 squaremetres. Over 80 people will startconstructing the hotel inNovember ready for a mid-December opening, including 39artists from nine countries who

will create its icy “art suites”along with an ice-pillared hallway,ice chandeliers and an Absolut IceBar, offering ice block seats cov-ered in reindeer skins.

Discover the World offerspackages with direct flightsfrom London’s Heathrow toKiruna Airport, 15km from thehotel, with three-night breaksfrom £886. For details, visitwww.discover-the-world.co.ukor call 01737 218 800.

The Hotel de Glace, just out-side Quebec City in Canada’sQuebec province, is celebratingits 10th anniversary and is openfrom January 4-April 4, 2010.Sleep in a cosy, Arctic sleepingbag in one of the 36 igloo-stylerooms and themed suites, some

with fireplace and private spa.Tailor Made Travel has two-

night packages, including one inthe Quebec ice hotel, from £199per person, excluding flights.Call 0800 988 5887 or visitwww.tailor-made.co.uk formore details.

The newest and most exclu-sive ice hotel has just 10 roomsand is located high up in thewilderness of the Fagarasmountains in Romania, accessi-ble only by cable car.Untravelled Paths has a four-night package staying there,beginning and ending inBucharest, from £360 per per-son. For more information, visitwww.icehotelromania.com orcall 0871 662 9521.

Still on a snowytheme, treat thekids to an experi-

ence they will never for-get with a trip this winterto meet Santa Claus inhis Lapland home. Highabove the Arctic Circle,enjoy husky sled-rides,reindeer sleigh rides andsnowmobiles, then returnto warm yourself in frontof a log fire in a tradi-tional log cabin.

Sovereign LuxuryHolidays offers three orfour-day programmesfrom £1,209 per adult and£1,065 per child, includingflights, accommodation,excursions and FestiveDinner. For bookings andmore information visitwww.sovereign.com orcall 0871 664 0227.

Esprit Holidays offerstwo and three-night hotelstays in Rovaniemi fromGatwick with prices

starting from £1,799 for afamily of four, includingflights, transfers, two

nights’ bed and breakfastaccommodation andactivities such as a pri-vate family snowmobilesafari to find Santa, avisit to the Joulukka ElfSchool, and husky sledand reindeer sleigh rides.Book Esprit Santa’sLapland packages on01252 618300 or visitwww.santaslapland.comfor more details.

Baby, it’s cold inside

� Have an ice day:Quebec’s Hotel de Glace

� Sleigh time in Lapland

� Making friends

See Santa on a family snow patrol

EspritSanta'sLapland

Tourism

Ireland

EspritSanta'sLapland

Black stuff breaks

Ever thought of giving upyour job, selling yourhouse and car and going

off to live a self-sufficienteco-life on a slow boat tonowhere in particular?That’s exactly what twoladies decided to do sevenyears ago, on a whim.

Having bought the shell ofa narrowboat, Bhaile, and fit-ted it out themselves, friendsPhillippa Greenwood andIrish-born MartineO’Callaghan set off with their fourcats on a Bohemian lifestyle explor-ing Britain’s inland waterways.

During their travels, thenomadic duo realised that thecanals were a destination in theirown right, with their own lingo,culture, landscape, heritage andactivities. Yet they could find noup-to-date guidebooks onBritain’s canals except naviga-tion guides.

So they wrote their own, Cool

Canals, and even started theirown publishing company andprinted it themselves when theycouldn’t find anyone to publish it.

The book highlights how toget the best out of Britain’swaterways, both on and off thecanals, and helps readers discov-er what makes them so special.

The first in a series ofplanned guides, it costs £14.99and is available through BritishWaterways’ leisure website

(www.waterscape.com) andfrom the authors’ website(www.coolcanalsguides.com).

We have five copies of CoolCanals to give away.

To win a copy, go towww.choicetravelinfo.comand click on competitions &giveaways, answering the follow-ing question: What is the name ofPhillipa and Martine’s narrow-boat? Terms & conditions apply.Closing date is October 31, 2009.

26 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

TRAVEL update

More connectionsFollowing the introduction offlights from Gatwick toMadrid earlier this year,AirEuropa is expanding itsservices to include threeweekly onward flights toSalvador in Brazil, increasingconnections to SouthAmerican destinations.Winter sun destinations suchas Palma and Tenerife will alsobe more easily accessible.www.aireuropa.com

Cape Town cricket

After the Ashes summer,follow England’s cricket teamthis winter as they take ontop-ranked nation SouthAfrica. Sport Abroad isoffering a nine-night CapeTown itinerary includingflights, four-star bed andbreakfast accommodation, aNewYear’s Eve cruise andtickets for the Third Test, for£2,849 per person.Visitwww.sportabroad.co.ukor call 0845 6803086.

Family adventuresFive new family trips,including a 15-day Turtles,Rivers and Mountains trip toCosta Rica and a 14-daySouth Africa and Swazilandteen adventure are in TheAdventure Company’s newFamily Adventures brochure.Book before December 20with a £50 deposit to enter adraw to win the cost of achild place back. Go towww.adventurecompany.co.ukor call 0845 609 0890.

If you’re inspired by our Let’s Try fea-ture, Longwood Holidays’ new Red

Sea Diving brochure is a complete guideto diving in the Red Sea and featuresnew products such as the Easy DiversRed Sea dive centre in Hurghada, aPADI five-star Gold Palm IDC (instruc-tor development centre) with a wide

range of diver training programmesincluding beginners. They also have aselection of buy-one-get-one-free orbuy-one-get-one-half-price offers ondiving packages and courses at select-ed dive centres on certain dates. Formore information, call the specialistdive team on 020 8418 2528 or visitwww.longwoodholidays.co.uk andclick the brochures tab.

Top long-haul destinationshave been the biggest win-

ners this year, with moreBritish holidaymakers spurn-ing short mini-breaks and tak-ing a single trip to places suchas Thailand and Barbados,according to the AmericanExpress Global Foreign

Exchange Service CurrencyIndex. Of this year's top 25

most popular currencies, 15 arefor long-haul destinations; all-inclusive deals to countries likeJamaica and Mexico, evenafter the swine flu outbreak,have seen increased demand.The Turkish lire and theEgyptian pound are the mostpopular currencies after theeuro and US dollar, proving thepopularity of these value-for-money destinations.

Take a slow boat – andWIN a Cool Canals guide

BritishWaterways

JamaicaTouristBoard

Turespana

� Britain’s canals are a destination in their own right

New dive brochure

Long-haul winners� Jamaica has been awinner for all-inclusive deals

� Mount Teide, Tenerife

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 27

The lands of Arabia and theexotic islands of the IndianOcean hold plenty of easternpromise for cruise passengerslooking to explore some-where out of the ordinary.

If you’ve tried the Mediterranean anddipped your toe into Caribbean waters, whynot sail eastwards to explore the sultry sur-roundings of the Persian Gulf or dis-cover the tropical outposts ofMauritius, the Seychelles andthe east coast of Africa.

Here’s an idea of whatyou will find:

MIDDLE EASTThis has been one of thecruising success stories ofrecent years, fuelled by therocketing popularity of Dubai

among British holidaymakers.The lure of this tiny emirate’s captivating

mix of sun, sea and shopping combined withthe cultural contrast of its more traditionalneighbours has proved to be irresistible tocruise passengers.

Cruises through the Middle East used tobe restricted to long voyages or world cruis-es, but that changed three years ago when

Italian cruise line Costa Cruisesstarted one-week round trip

sailings from Dubai.The rest, as they say, is

history. Demand frompassengers, particularlyfrom the UK, was sostrong that Costa dou-bled the number of cruis-

es by basing two ships inDubai.This winter, there will be

28 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Cruising the Middle East andIndian Ocean is a great way to

experience these up-and-coming holiday regions.Sara Macefield looks

at the possibilities

Shipsof the desertMTPA

� Costa has been sailing from Dubai for three years

� Mauritius

P&O Cruises

CostaCruises

� P&O Cruises’ Oriana in the Suez Canal

more choice than ever before as Americancruise line Royal Caribbean Internationalmakes its Middle Eastern debut by basing aship there, too.

Where do you go?Voyages through the Persian Gulf generallylast one week and start and finish in Dubai,making it easy for holidaymakers to add ona few days in this famous tourism hotspot.

From here, ships sail into the heart of theMiddle East, generally following the sameroute.

Ports of call include Muscat in Oman,renowned for having one of the oldest civili-sations in the Arabian Peninsula, andFujairah in the United Arab Emirates, anideal jumping off point from which toexplore the desert.

Then there’s the capital of the emirates,Abu Dhabi, where passengers can go ashoreto barter in the gold souks, ride the desertdunes on 4x4 safaris and admire the opu-lence of the unique Emirates Palace hotel.

Another stop is the tiny island of Bahrain,a great trading empire of ancient times thatis now better known for its liberal culture,making it popular with tourists.

The Dubai cruising seasontends to run fromDecember to May, butif you’re looking fora longer cruisethrough the MiddleEast, several dif-ferent cruise linesoffer sailings dur-ing winter, springand autumn.

These tend to becruises sailing between theMediterranean and the Far Eastwhich cut through the Suez Canal and sailalong the Red Sea.

En route, ports of call include Port Saidor Alexandria on Egypt’s Mediterraneancoast from where the pyramids of Cairo andother ancient attractions await.

Red SeaIn the Red Sea, the port of Aqaba in Jordanis the gateway to the ancient city of Petra,which can be reached on a day trip, andother ancient wonders.

Sharm el Sheikh, on Egypt’s Sinai coast, isa lively hub of hotels, bars and shops, but isalso famous for its fabulous diving, whilewestern Red Sea port Safaga boasts similarly-

impressive underwater attractions.Once they reach the Gulf of

Aden, ships can either head southdown the east coast of Africa and

towards the Indian Ocean or easttowards the Persian Gulf and India.

One of the first easterly points that shipscome across is the port city of Aden inYemen, a fascinating former British colonywhere the remains of its years spent underimperialist rule can still be seen.

Farther along this stretch of coast is

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 29

all ABOARDMIDDLE EAST & INDIAN OCEAN CRUISING

Banditry at seaIt’s not all plain sailing in this region. In recent years the Gulf of Aden has gained asomewhat notorious reputation as the pirate capital of the world’s waterwaysfollowing a string of attacks by boatloads of Somali bandits on ships passing through.While commercial vessels have been the main targets, cruise ships have also been

chased – though, so far, all of them have managed to escape their would-be attackers.Larger cruise ships have the power to outrun the pirate boats and take evasive

action, but smaller, more vulnerable ships have to be more careful.Some make sure they join the naval convoys going through the region while others

have altered itineraries to avoid the area altogether.Italian cruise line MSC Cruises had the closest skirmish earlier this year when shots

were exchanged between the pirates and its onboard security team.The ship and its passengers came through the confrontation unscathed, but the

cruise line has since announced that it is changing its itineraries to avoid the area.

Middle East & Indian Ocean facts

StarwoodHotels

Sample cruisesCosta Cruises (0845 351 0552,www.costacruises.co.uk) is offering aone-week cruise from Dubai, calling at Bahrain,Abu Dhabi, Fujairah andMuscat, from £499 on January 9, 2010. Flights extra.

Silverseas Cruises (0844 770 9030,www.silversea.com) is offering a 16-day Isles of the Indian Ocean sailing from Dubai on December 4 to theSeychelles. Ports of call include Muscat, Mumbai, Sri Lanka and Seychellesislands such as Praslin and La Digue. Prices are from £2,897 and flights andports charges are extra.

Other useful cruise contacts:Cunard Line (0845 678 0013,www.cunard.co.uk)Crystal Cruises (020 7287 9040,www.crystalcruises.co.uk)MSC Cruises (0844 561 1955,www.msccruises.co.uk)Oceania Cruises (01344 772344,www.oceaniacruises.co.uk)P&O Cruises (0845 678 0014,www.pocruises.com)Regent Seven Seas Cruises (02380 682280,www.rssc.co.uk)Royal Caribbean International (0844 493 4005,www.royalcaribbean.co.uk)Saga Cruises (0800 096 0079,www.saga.co.uk/travel)Spirit of Adventure (0800 015 6984,www.spiritofadventure.co.uk)Swan Hellenic (0845 246 9700,www.swanhellenic.com)Thomson Cruises (0871 231 5938,www.thomson.co.uk/cruise)Voyages of Discovery (0845 018 1808,www.voyagesofdiscovery.co.uk)Yachts of Seabourn (0845 070 0500,www.seabourn.com)

Check out the website of the Passenger Shipping Association, whichrepresents all the main cruise lines, at www.discover-cruises.co.uk

� Bahrain

Salalah, Oman’s second-largest town and theso-called perfume capital of Arabia thanks tothe abundance of frankincense trees growingin the town’s surprisingly-lush surroundings.

INDIAN OCEANLike the Caribbean, the Indian Ocean is abeautiful, tropical escape that was made forcruising.

You can choose the beach paradise ofMauritius, with its picture-perfect stretchesof dazzling white sand, or the stunning land-scape of the Seychelles islands, renownedfor their incredible beauty, rich wildlife andFrench colonial charm.

Then there’s Madagascar, an island witha rich culture, owing to its diverse combina-tion of European, Indian, African and Arabicinfluences; the “spice island” of Zanzibar; orthe unspoilt Comoros Islands, known fortheir rustic traditions and crafts.

But one of the highlights of cruises to thisarea is the chance to go wild in Africa.

By stopping at the Kenyan beach resortof Mombasa, passengers can travel beyondthe ivory white sands lining the coast toview the spectacular vast, grassy plains ofthe Masai Mara.

This is the place to discover the traditionsand rituals of Masai tribesman and the richwildlife that makes Kenya one of the world’smost sought-after safari destinations.

Like the Middle East, voyages throughthe Indian Ocean and along the East Africancoast are mainly restricted to ships passingthrough on longer sailings, but Costa is anotable exception as it offers 14-night cruis-es from Mauritius in winter.

Whether you’ve cruised before or not,this new ship from Celebrity Cruisescannot fail to impress.Its sleek and stylish design makes it a

cut above most other cruise ships, butthe most novel attraction has to be TheLawn Club - half an acre of real grass thatcovers part of the deck like a greenblanket.This is the place to practise putting; try

your hand at bocce ball (which is a bitlike bowls); or simply sit down with adrink and admire the view.On the edge of the lawn is another

unusual, and entertaining, feature – theHot Glass Show, where glass-blowersbreathe life into their molten creations.But the main hub of the action is

around the two main swimming pools andthe deck bathing fountain, which was amagnet for excited children who ranexcitedly through the jets of water asthey shot randomly into the air.Mealtimes were also a treat.The

striking ivory and silver Grand Epernaydining room was the best I’ve seen on alarge ship, matched by delicious five-course dinners.There were numerous other

restaurants to choose from, though theycarried an extra charge of up to $30 perhead. However, the Italian Tuscan Grilleand fine-dining Murano restaurants wereimpressive for their food and service.Dining here did feel very select andspecial.Celebrity Solstice is a ship that can

cater for the most sophisticated of tastes,but it also has a fun side that ensures thatit carries plenty of kids appeal.

Sara Macefield

CRUISE SHIP Review

Jumping aboard: Celebrity Solstice

Celebrity Solstice

Cruise line: Celebrity Cruises(www.celebritycruises.co.uk)Cruise:One-week Eastern Caribbeancruise from Fort Lauderdale to PuertoRico, St Maarten and St KittsFacilities: Spa, Lawn Club, glass-blowing show, 19 shops, threeswimming pools, 10 dining venues

Shipshape� Great restaurants� Lots to do� Wide choice of bars� Good for kids

That sinking feeling� Cabin space a bit tight� Inflexible dining in main restaurant

factbox

Cruise tips� Persian Gulf cruises are rich in

culture but, apart from Dubai, theydon’t offer much else in the way oftourist attractions.

� Costa Cruises and Royal CaribbeanInternational ships spend a night inDubai at the start and the end of eachcruise, giving passengers ampleopportunity to explore the emiratewithout having to pay high hotel rates.

� It may be hot, but ladies need toremember to cover up and dressrespectfully if they are going ashore,especially in more traditional areas.

� Longer cruises that visit the MiddleEast may be described asrepositioning cruises, where shipsmove between the Mediterraneanand the Far East.They may also besectors on world cruises.

TL

� Sleek and stylish: Celebrity'snew ship impresses

Celebrity

Cruises

Celebrity

Cruises

� Play croqueton real grass

30 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

With around 1.5 million Britons goingcruising each year, cruise lines aredoing more than ever to tempt them

on-board. The second annual National CruiseWeek in September saw a stream of specialcruise deals and value-added incentives, helpingto showcase cruising to a wider audience.

“Cruising boasts a world of opportunity andwith a record number of Brits embracing cruisinglast year, we are pleased to report that in spite ofthe recession, the exceptional value of cruise holi-days means they are still immensely popular, saidBill Gibbons, director of the Passenger ShippingAssociation.

“National Cruise Week celebrates that successand welcomes new-to-cruise passengers to getonboard.”

It’s a busy time for the cruise industry.November sees the march of the “mega-ships”with the launch of the world’s largest ship, Oasisof the Seas.

Owner Royal Caribbean International expectsto take cruising to a new level with this record-breaking vessel.

It will hold a staggering 5,400 passengers andis so big it will be split into seven distinct neigh-bourhoods, including Central Park, based on NewYork, and Boardwalk, inspired by English seasidepiers and classic American boardwalks. That will

feature a full-size, hand-painted carousel ride, thefirst at sea.

Other highlights include a zipwire suspendedacross the deck, a Rising Tide Bar which movesbetween decks as the ship sails along, and anamphitheatre-style stern Aquatheatre for ambi-tious water-based shows.

Taking a cruise can be theperfect holiday for solotravellers wanting to

meet like-minded companionsin sociable surroundings.

The main disadvantage canbe the high rate of single supple-ments which means lone passen-gers can end up paying the full

price for a two-berth cabin.But more lines are now cater-

ing for lone passengers byeither reducing single chargesor adding specially-designedsingle cabins to their ships.

Costa Cruises is the latestline to act on this. For all book-ings after December 1, it is cut-

ting single supplements by up tohalf, bringing them down to30% on some sailings.

Mediterranean cruise lineLouis Cruises has waived singlesupplements on its weeklycruises from Athens untilOctober 23.

Fred Olsen Cruise Lines hasmore than 200 single cabinsacross its ships and single supple-ments average at 65%, though onsome sailings they are reduced.

Hurtigruten does not chargesingle supplements on most ofits sailings while Voyages ofDiscovery also runs cruises withreduced or no extra charges forlone travellers.

Companies such as HollandAmerica Line and TransoceanCruises run so-called share pro-grammes enabling strangers (ofthe same sex) to pair up.

32 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

CRUISE news

CRUISE CLIPS

The BBC’s Strictly ComeDancing show has spawned asurge in demand for dance-themed holidays, according tocruise travel agency

Cruise118. Several lines offerthemed sailings, while IslandCruises runs its own versionwith two of the show’sprofessional stars, DarrenBennett and Lilia Kopylova.

October 30 marks the finalvoyage of Saga Cruises’flagship, Saga Rose, but itsreplacement, Saga Pearl II willbe launched next March withan inaugural cruise fromSouthampton to Norway.

A new cruise line calledCruise & MaritimeVoyages isbeing set up to offer cruisesfrom the UK in 2010 on twoships.One of them,MarcoPolo, will offers sailings fromTilbury while sister ship OceanCountess will sail from portsincluding Hull, Newcastle,Greenock and Plymouth.

Lines tempt new cruisers

Solo sailors� Costa Cruises is slashing single supplements

� End of the linefor Saga Rose

� Bruce and co have gotStrictly fans all at sea

BBCPictures

Saga

Cruises

CostaCruises

RCI

� Computer-generated image of the carousel on Oasis of the Seas

in your FLIGHT BAG

No sweat for Sure!Sure Maximum Protection formen and women is an anti-perspirant deodorant thatprovides 48-hour protectionfrom sweat, while caring foryour underarms.Sure Maximum Protection is

formulated with TRIsolidinnovative body responsetechnology which contains three importantcomponents:� Maximum wetness protection� Encapsulated odour-fighting technology –

fragrance is released when sweating begins� Skin moisturising ingredient

SureWomen and Sure MenMaximum Protection anti-perspirant deodorants areavailable from leading chemistsand supermarkets with an RRP of£4.99 for 45ml. For a list ofstockists, call the Sure CustomerCareline on 0800 085 2639.

Getting it coveredis easy with Be.ezIf you find it too hard to leave your netbook athome, then the least you can do is protect it with

a bright and colourful memoryfoam sleeve from Be.ez.Shock absorbing andextremely durable, theBe.ez netbook sleevesare compatible with 8.9”and 10.2” netbooks andcome in nine colours.Toprotect your pride and joyfrom bumps and scratchesfor as little as £17.50, go towww.be-ez.com� To WIN one of four Be.ez

Netbook Sleeves, simply log onto www.choicetravelinfo.com and click oncompetitions &giveaways.Terms& conditionsapply. Closingdate October30, 2009.

Andrex On the GoA n t i b a c t e r i a lSpray guarantees

to kill 99.9% of bacteria.More versatile than anti-bacterial hand gels andfoams, this alcohol-freespray not only cleansand refreshes hands, it’salso effective in disin-fecting hard surfacessuch as door handles,toilet seats or even achild’s high chair. Betterstill, there is no need toadd water; simply spray

the solution on yourhands or surfaces andallow it to dry.

Andrex On the GoAntibacterial Spraycomes in a handy 50mlspray bottle and fits per-fectly into a handbag orpocket so that it can beused whenever and wher-ever it’s needed.

Andrex On the GoAntibacterial Spray isavailable at selected UKretailers, priced £1.99.

Liven up your flight witha pair of funky Moccis

Not only are they very practicalbut Moccis look good, too.Each pair is made by hand

with delicate hand stitching in the onlymoccasin factory in Sweden and, toensure the best possible quality,Moccis are made of natural ecotex-cer-tified materials. The leather sole isdurable and flexible, allowing the footto move freely, and the moccasin hasdouble elastic at the ankle which willprevent it from falling off. They areperfect for long haul flights and winterskiing holidays.

Moccis are not just for children, thewhole family can now enjoy them!Baby and junior Moccis cost £18 andadult ones are £26.

Go to www.moccis.co.uk, whereyou can register your details for quickershopping, view all collections, checkout what’s new and what’s coming soon,find the nearest stockist, viewfavourites and create a wish list.� WIN one of two pairs of adult Moccis.Go to www.choicetravelinfo.com andclick on competitions & giveaways.Terms & conditions apply. Closing dateOctober 30, 2009.

Hygiene whenyou need it

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 33

34 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

in your SUITCASE

Fit-flopping fantasticGet a workout while you walk with FitFlops.Theyhelp improve your posture, tone your calves, yourthighs and your bum muscles, and have beenreported to provide relief from conditionsincluding chronic back pain and sciatica.The secret is a midsole using patent-pending

“microwobbleboard” technology which increasesleg muscle activity by approximately 10-12%every time you take a step.You don’t have to walk miles every day to

notice a difference.You can wear them in yourholiday apartment, around the pool or to thelocal shops – and even Julianne Moore and Oprahhave been seen sporting them.FitFlops have an RRP of £44 and

come in a range of colours andstyles, so simply choose yourfavourite pair and beginworking out while youwalk.For store listings go to

www.fitflop.com/wheretobuy

Life’s-Biotic is thefirst pro-biotic youcan keep in your

suitcase and not in thefridge.

Embarrassing anduncomfortable problems,particularly infectiousdiarrhoea, can surprisemany on holiday, eventhose who are not prone

to such troubles. TakeLife’s Biotic before andduring your holiday topreserve good gut floraand enhance yourimmune system, helpingto fight off harmful bac-teria and even viruses.

Life’s-Biotic is a newscientifically-proven pro-biotic and its unique for-

mula provides good livebacteria to help keep thedigestive system healthy.

A pack of seven 7mlvials (no water needed)has an RRP of £6.59, andis available from inde-pendent and nationalpharmacies. Life’s-Bioticis also available insachets and capsules.

Bursting with Caribbean flavour,the new Island Girl collectionfrom Papillon Bleu features 17

sensual silhouettes to take you frombeach to bar and beyond.

Created from only the finest 100%natural fabrics, soft cotton voiles andsilk cotton blends, Island Girl is a mod-ern, free-flowing collection of dresses,tops, cover-ups, skirts and trousers.

With gorgeous hues of zestyKeylime, Amethyst Ink and Aqua Sky,Papillon Bleu’s exquisite hand-embell-ished pieces can be worn day or night.

The Island Girl Cruise Collection isavailable in-store from November 16,2009.

Visit www.papillonbleu.com forUK and international stockists.

Be an Island Girlwith Papillon Bleu

Liz Earle NaturallyActive Skincare wasthe skincare sponsorof CowesWeek 2009,which took place inAugust. Professionalswere on hand to offerprotection from theelements to sailorsand spectatorsthroughout thecompetition.Based on the

picturesque Isle ofWight, Liz Earle usesthe finest-quality,naturally-activeingredients for itsbotanically-basedskincare range.Now you can put its

Sun Shade solutions tothe test

with the SunTry-MeKit – a portablecollection of miniatureprotectors andrevivers comprising:Face Protector SPF25(15ml), BodyProtector SPF15(30ml), Aftersun Gel(30ml) and arefreshing InstantBoost Skin TonicSpritzer (30ml) plus azip-up kit bag.Withantioxidant green tea,pomegranate andnatural source vitaminE, they help to protectskin from free-radicaldamage caused by thesun.Liz Earle Naturally

Active Skincare isavailable online atwww.lizearle.comand by mail order bycalling 01983 813913.

Protect your skin fromthe elements

Ta ta totummy trouble

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 35

Iwas not more than 10 or 15 feetunderwater. It was calm and warm,and just a few yards from the shoreoff Playa del Carmen, on Mexico’sRiviera Maya. And then I started toget nervous.

“What if the air stops,” I thought. “Howwill I get to the surface?

36 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

From youngsters to pensioners, almost anyonecan learn to dive – and where better to start than

on holiday in crystal-clear waters? Adam Coulter(pictured right) learnt in Mexico and is

now a committed convert

Take theplunge

Cayman

IslandsDepartmentofTourism

/JayEasterbrook

Background picture: Sandals

� Spectacular colours in the Cayman Islands

“What if a shark suddenly appears?”“What’s that dark shape over there?”My instructor, Henri, a Jacques

Cousteau-type character with a great biggrey, drooping moustache and hang-dogeyes, sensed my concern.

He took hold of my hand, looked me inmy eyes and made the sign for slow breath-

ing, like a slow, hand wave, up and down, upand down…I followed his lead and then afew seconds later my breathing stabilised,my head cleared and I looked around.

Off in the distance, the dark shape beganto materialise – a turtle.

I smiled and pointed at it, and then weboth swam towards it, slowly and calmly.

That was my first-ever dive and I shallnever forget it.

Most people get nervous the first timethey try diving – it is, after all, an unnaturalsituation. But with the right instructor andenvironment it could well be the start of alife-long love affair.

It has been for me. Since that date, I haveclocked up more than 100 dives and takennumerous courses, and I am now a MasterScuba Diver, which is the highest non-pro-fessional qualification recognised by theProfessional Association of DivingInstructors (PADI).

Diving was once the preserve of explor-ers and adventurers, but it is now open toalmost anyone thanks to Cousteau’s inven-tion of the self-contained underwater breath-ing apparatus (hence the acronym, scuba).

And although there are upper and lowerage limits, as well as certain pre-existinghealth conditions that might preclude you,essentially it is accessible as a round ofgolf…except under water.

Accredited centresThe key consideration when choosingwhere in the world to dive is to ensure thatthe resort is an accredited dive centre.

The three main dive associations whichprovide this accreditation are PADI, BSAC(British Sub-Aqua Club) and NAUI(National Association of Scuba Instructors).

PADI is by far the largest with presencein 180 countries and more than 5,300 divecentres and resorts worldwide. It has a widerange of courses to take you from novice toexperienced diver.

BSAC is mainly confined to the UK, buthas 300 overseas centres and also offersrange of courses.

NAUI is the choice of US Navy Seals andNASA pilots. However it has limited pres-ence worldwide.

Beginner coursesA beginner course takes about three to fivedays (depending on resort), usually includ-ing five dives. But it is not just about jump-ing in the water; it also involves theory,

which means sitting in a classroom learningthe amount of residual nitrogen left in yourbody after a one-hour dive and such-like…perhaps not the best way to spendyour two weeks by the sea.

One option is to do the theory in the UKbefore you leave – and get straight in the seawhen you arrive in resort. Another is to takean online course, like a distance learningcourse, and you’ll be ready to dive when youget there.

Some all-inclusive resort operators suchas Club Med, Mark Warner, Sandals andSuperClubs include free diving, and some-times a try-dive session. Courses cost extrabut less than at other centres.

The great thing about diving is that onceyou have mastered the basics and you feelconfident and comfortable about being inthe water, the sea really is your oyster.

Here is where you can learn:

The MediterraneanMalta is widely regarded as the best spot inthe Med to learn to dive due to its spectacu-lar underwater scenery, in particular aroundthe island of Gozo. Greece has recentlyrelaxed its restrictions on diving and thereare also some good spots in Cyprus, theBalearics and south-eastern Spain.However, the drawback with diving any-where in the Med is that there is little oroften nothing to see in terms of marine lifeor corals. Sadly, the ravages of mass fishingtechniques have taken their toll.

The Red SeaEgypt: The Red Sea Riviera, whichincludes the resorts of Sharm el Sheikh,Hurghada and Taba, is one of the most pop-ular places to learn to dive. It is accessible(less than five hours’ flight time), reason-ably-priced, well-regulated and full ofaccredited dive centres. The beauty of theRed Sea is the sheer number of dive sitesavailable in a relatively small area. Probablythe best place for a beginner is Sharmbecause the sea there is sheltered. Diving isin areas including Ras Mohammed NationalPark, so the corals are pristine and sea lifeabundant.

Israel: Gentle currents, shallow watersand good visibility make Eilat ideal forlearning to dive. The coast here is a marinereserve. Highlights include JapaneseGardens, a protected area near the borderwith Egypt with breathtaking coral forma-tions and teeming with fish.

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 37

LEARNING TO DIVE

let’s TRY…????

Club

Med

StLucia

TouristBoard

Cayman

IslandsDepartmentofTourism

� Diving in the Maldiveswith Club Med

� Coming up forair in St Lucia

� A dive certificationcourse in the Cayman

Islands

MexicoThe Riviera Maya has all the attributes toput a beginner at ease: calm, clear and warmsea (an average of almost 27ºC year-round),the second-largest barrier reef in the worldand excellent dive centres. Plus a hyperbar-ic (or recompression) chamber in Playa delCarmen for emergencies.

It also has another added attractionunique in the world – huge freshwater caves,known as cenotes, with crystal-clear water.

The CaribbeanThe Caribbean in general is an excellentarea for the novice diver, and there are anumber of stand-out places to take your firsttentative steps into the underwater world.

St Lucia is top of my list. The island hasall the attributes of the Riviera Maya, withone huge bonus: a reef that you can literallywalk to from the shore.

A stretch of the western coastline wasdeclared a marine reserve sanctuary 14 yearsago, and since then the reef has flourished.The most accessible part is just off AnseChastanet Beach, where Scuba St Lucia runsbeginners courses.

The Bahamas is also excellent fornovice divers, for the extraordinary numberof sites at which to learn and its rich marinelife. The Bahamas has a lot of sharks,although most are harmless.

Barbados also offers a gentle environ-ment ideal for learner divers, although thereef here is not in the same league as that ofSt Lucia.

The Cayman Islands are great forlearning to dive and also a real challenge for

the expert. Clear waters and a shallow reefnear shore suit beginners; and as all threeislands are submerged mountains, there aredeep walls just offshore with incrediblemarine life. The most famous is LittleCayman’s Bloody Bay Wall.

Grenada is another spot perfect for bothnovices and experts. Most dive sites are nearthe shore, marine life abounds and visibilityis excellent year-round. Grenada also has theCaribbean's largest shipwreck, the Bianca C.

The best place to learn in Jamaica is inthe sheltered waters off Negril, a protectedmarine park. Other good sites are along thewest and north coasts, including MontegoBay, Ocho Rios and Runaway Bay.

Little-known Dominica has pristinecoral and giant sponges, and regularly winsawards for the beauty and variety of its divesites. It has also become known as thewhale-watching capital of the Caribbean.

Other islands with excellent diving andlearning facilities include Aruba, Bonaire,Curacao, the Dominican Republic andthe Turks & Caicos.

FloridaNorth America’s only living coral barrierreef and the third longest barrier reef in theworld lies just off the Florida Keys, and itoffers the best diving in Florida. The FloridaKeys National Marine Sanctuary surroundsthe entire archipelago and protects 2,800square nautical miles. It also has severalartificial reefs – wrecks sunk deliberately ashavens for fish and corals – including a newone sunk in May. This stretch of coast offersfrequent sightings of harmless reef sharks.

38 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

TipsBefore you dive� If you don’t feel 100% comfortable

then don’t dive.� Talk through the dive in detail with

your instructor to allay any fears youmay have.

� Don’t drink alcohol the night prior toa dive or have a big breakfast justbefore diving.

During your dive� If you get nervous the first time, get

back in again; it’s always better thesecond time.

� Try not to think about breathing – letit happen automatically, and enjoy theview.

� Keep breathing – don’t hold yourbreath at any point.

And remember: sharks don’t attackdivers – there have been no known diverfatalities from shark attacks.

MaltaTourism

Authority

Regaldive

Cayman

IslandsDepartmentofTourism

� Diving in Malta

� Vibrantcorals in theRed Sea

� StingrayCity, offGrandCayman

The Far EastThe sheltered waters of the Gulf ofThailand, off Thailand, are one of the bestplaces in the world to learn diving. The seais always warm and generally calm withexcellent visibility (outside of rainy season),and despite the rather lax enforcement ofrules in marine reserves, the marine life isextraordinary.

The best spots for beginners are KohSamui, which includes the Ang ThongMarine Reserve, and the Phi Phi Islands,also in a national marine park. The setting,beauty of the corals and sheer variety of fishare hard to beat. The quality of instruction isexcellent, and it is also far cheaper than theCaribbean.

The MaldivesIt’s hard to beat the Maldives if you arelooking to try diving for the first time.Every island is a coral atoll, so you areeffectively on the reef and only have toswim a few yards from the beach. The wateris bathwater-warm and the visibility is usu-ally excellent.

40 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

When he is not planning his next diveholiday,Adam Coulter writes for anumber of publications including SpectatorBusiness, Routes News, Buying Business Traveland Sport Diver magazine.

Learn to dive facts

TL

Who can dive?Anyone from eight to 85 years old. You can’t dive if you are pregnant, havesinus problems, epilepsy, chronic asthma or heart problems. It’s also notadvisable to dive if you have a cold.

CoursesCentres affiliated to diving organisations offer courses around the world.

PADI has a Seal Team course open to eight-year-olds,which teaches them the basics of diving.At 10years old, they can do the Junior OpenWaterDiver and at 12 the Junior Advanced, both ofwhich carry depth restrictions.For holidaymakers curious to try it, there aretwo short courses available: Discover ScubaDiving, a one-day course including one poolsession and one sea dive; and Scuba Diver, a

two-day course with three theory sessions, twopool dives and two sea dives.All count towards the

OpenWater certification.From 15 years old, you can do the adult courses: OpenWater,Advanced,Rescue and Master.All include various speciality courses.

Equipment neededDive centres will kit you out with everything, for a price. So if you plan ondiving a lot it is worthwhile buying the basics: a wetsuit, fins, snorkel andmask.A dive computer is great to have but they cost £300-plus.

Associations and UK dive centresPADI:www.padi.com; NAUI:www.naui.org; BSAC:www.bsac.com.UK dive centres include Diving Leisure London: 020 7924 4106,www.divingleisurelondon.co.uk

Resort operatorsClub Med:www.clubmed.co.uk; MarkWarner:www.markwarner.co.uk; Sandals:www.sandals.co.uk; SuperClubs:www.superclubs.com; Couples:www.couples.com

Dive operatorsSeveral tour operators offer holidays with divingcourses.They include:Longwood Holidays: 020 8418 2570,www.longwoodholidays.co.uk; Regaldive:01353 659 999,www.regal-diving.co.uk;Explorers: 0871 231 4932,www.explorers.co.uk; Peltours: 0844 2250120,www.peltours.com; Kuoni: 01306747 002,www.kuoni.co.uk; DiveWorldwide:0845 130 6980,www.diveworldwide.com;Barefoot Traveller: 020 8741 4319,www.barefoot-traveller.com;Goldenjoy Dive: 0871 226 8701,www.goldenjoydive.com

Sample packageExplorers (now part of Thomson Holidays) has a learn-to-dive holiday withflights from £499 per person for seven nights at the Ocean Club, in Sharmel Sheikh, including PADI Scuba Diver course. For details, go to:www.explorers.co.uk/learn_to_dive.aspx

Aruba.fotoseeker.com

EgyptianStateTouristOffice

Aruba.fotoseeker.com

Regaldive

� Diving off Aruba

� A turtle in theRed Sea off Egypt

Here is your chance to win aseven-night holiday for two tothe pristine islands of theAzores, worth £1,500.

Part of the portfolio of independent travelcompany Sunvil, the Azores are nine emer-ald-green islands set in the Atlantic Oceanbetween Portugal and North America. Theseunspoilt islands, less than four hours by airfrom the UK, are home to naturally blue andgreen lakes, extinct volcanoes, lush valleysand rugged coastlines.

Having operated holidays for nearly 40years, Sunvil has helped tens of thousands ofcustomers discover the real heart and soul ofcountries on tailor-made trips to stunning des-tinations worldwide. Sunvil specialises in help-ing holidaymakers escape off the beaten trackand is the leading tour operator to the Azores.

It has a team of experienced staff readyto share their local knowledge and top tips,to make sure you make the most of your hol-iday. One experience you definitely don’twant to miss is whale-watching; the Azoresrank as one of the best sites in Europe forobserving whales and are one of just a fewplaces on earth where you can see spermwhale pods of females with their offspring.

Back on dry land, there’s plenty more todo. For starters, there are more than 850 res-ident flowering plants and ferns, making theislands a haven for birds – and for bird-watchers. There are also numerous smalltowns where you can enjoy meeting thelocals and soaking up the slow pace of life.

Whatever your preferences, Sunvil willhelp hand-pick the location, accommodationand experiences that best suit your individ-ual tastes and requirements. If you’re inter-ested in discovering the real country, furtherdetails about tailor-made packages to theAzores and Sunvil’s other destinations canbe found by visiting the company’s website:www.sunvil.co.uk

The prizeSunvil is giving you the opportunity toexplore the Azores with a fantastic seven-night holiday to the “green island” of SaoMiguel. The prize, worth £1,500, is for twopeople and includes: seven nights’ accom-modation at the Hotel Talisman, PontaDelgada, sharing a twin/double room on bedand breakfast basis, return flights withSATA from Gatwick or Manchester to SaoMiguel and resort transfers.

Clients must travel in 2010 between Apriland October, excluding high season (July-August). Entrants must be over 18 years ofage. Other terms & conditions also apply.

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 41

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Allphotos:Sunvil

42 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

LISBON GOLF COAST, PORTUGAL

Portugal has become synony-mous with golf holidays inthe UK, thanks to the popu-larity of the Algarve. It hasestablished itself as one of thetop winter destinations for

British golfers.But another region of the country 300km

to the north is now making a name for itselfas a golf destination, offering golf year-round on courses every bit as good and withuncrowded fairways and cheaper green fees– the Lisbon Golf Coast.

Spanning the Atlantic coastal area aroundPortugal’s elegant capital, Estoril andCascais, the area has seen the number ofcourses increase rapidly in recent years as itspopularity has grown.

There are now two dozen high-qualitycourses within an hour of the centre ofLisbon set amidst coastal dunes, hills, plainsand pine forests. Many have been designedby some of golf’s top architects. But Lisbonis no new kid on the golfing block. Amongits courses are Portugal’s two oldest – LisbonSports Club, originally founded by Englishresidents in 1880, and the 80-year-oldEstoril Golf Club.

The Lisbon Golf Coast has earned recog-nition from golf tour operators around theworld for the quality and variety of its golf.They voted it Established Golf Destination ofthe Year for 2003 in the golf industry’s“Oscars”, the annual IAGTO Awards stagedby global golf tourism industry associationIAGTO. That honour was followed by theregion being named European GolfDestination of the Year in the 2007 awards.

For golfers who want to mix a bit of cul-ture and nightlife with their golf, the Lisbonarea is perfect. You can either make the cityyour base and drive out to play differentcourses by day while exploring the city inthe late afternoons and evenings, or you canstay in luxury resorts where the fairways area stroll away from your room.

Top facilities in the area include PenhaLonga, which has a Ritz-Carlton hotelalongside and 27 holes of golf by RobertTrent Jones Jr. The 18-hole Atlantic courseis one of the area’s must-plays and has twicestaged the Portuguese Open.

Its signature hole, the par-4 6th, is one ofthe region’s most iconic holes, the highlightbeing a Roman aqueduct which runs behinda green cupped by a lake. Other notableholes include the par-4 16th, the strokeindex one hole which starts with an elevated

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 43

pack your CLUBS

Capitalattraction

Lisbon may lag behind the Algarve in terms ofawareness among British golfers but the Portuguesecapital’s top-drawer facilities have earned it a string

of accolades, as Peter Ellegard reports

PeterEllegard

Lisboa

GolfCoast

PeterEllegard

� Teeing off onPenha Longa's16th hole

� Bom Sucesso is the region’s newest course� Quinta do Peru

tee, inviting golfers to drive to a landing areapeppered with waiting bunkers where itdoglegs to the right and climbs back up to agreen perched on a plateau. The finishinghole has another elevated tee, giving a stir-ring view of the hotel surrounded by trees.

For high handicappers, the nine-holeMonastery course, named for a nearbyancient Monastery, offers a less-hilly andmore forgiving experience.

Praia d’El Rey, another top-drawercourse, is a traditional links layout spreadout along dunes and cliffs overlooking theAtlantic and interspersed with pine trees.Located near Obidos, a town surrounded byMedieval walls, the course is part of Praiad’El Rey Golf & Country Club – namedEurope’s Golf Resort of the Year in the 2007IAGTO Awards.

Half an hour’s drive south of Lisbon,Troia is set on a long, sandy peninsula sepa-rating the Sado River estuary from theAtlantic Ocean. Designed by Robert TrentJones Sr, Troia serves up a real test for lowhandicap golfers without unduly penalisingmore modest players. Its scenic location,with the dramatic backdrop of the Arrabidamountains and alongside a long stretch ofunspoilt beaches, gives the course a wild andnatural beauty teeming with birdlife. It wasranked 25 out of Europe’s Top 100 Coursesby Golf World, and you can stay on-site atTroia Resort’s four-star aparthotel.

Nature is also a feature of Oitavos Dunes,to the extent that it became the first course inEurope and only the second in the world to be

recognised as a Gold Signature Sanctuary byenvironmental organisation AudubonInternational. Opened in 2001 in the Sintra-Cascais Nature Reserve at Quinta da Marinha,Oitavos was designed by Arthur Hills andspans three environments: a forest of umbrellapine trees, dunes and an open coastal area.

Robert Trent Jones Sr’s championshipcourse at nearby Hotel Quinta da Marinha

Resort has staged PGA Challenge Tour andSeniors Tour events. Its back nine runs alongcliff tops offering stunning views over theAtlantic, with the par-4 13th hole droppingtowards the sea. The resort includes a recent-ly-renovated five-star hotel and is also sur-rounded by the Sintra-Cascais reserve.

Quinta do Peru, in the Azeitao area southof the Tagus River, is set in a country estateof pine and cork trees.

New openings are helping to maintain thehigh quality of courses in the region. Amongthem three are in the Ribatejo region, 30

minutes east of Lisbon airport. TheRibagolfe I and II courses are both par 72creations by European Golf Design, whileSanto Estevado is a par 73 by Donald Steel.

Another Steel layout is at the heart ofCampoReal Resort, in the rural Oeste (west)region and also just a 30-minute drive fromLisbon. A residential, golf and leisure devel-opment which includes a five-star Westinhotel, its name translates literally as “theRoyal Meadow” and comes from the factthat the first kings of Portugal used the areaas their personal hunting ground.

The course cuts through natural vegeta-tion including cork-oak, olive and fragranteucalyptus trees, beginning and ending withpar 5 holes. Facilities at the hotel include theDiVine Spa, which uses natural vinotherapytreatments, a tennis centre and a modernequestrian centre.

An hour’s drive north of Lisbon, close tohistoric Obidos, is the area’s newest course –once again by veteran architect DonaldSteel. It opened in September 2008 as partof the Bom Sucesso Design Resort, Leisure& Golf, which also offers a spa hotel, hous-ing and other leisure facilities.

The par-72 course spans what was for-merly dense eucalyptus forest and encom-passes valleys and ridges, but mainly con-sists of gentle slopes. The final three holeshave already gained a reputation as beingamong the most exciting in Portugal. Thepar-5 17th starts at the resort’s highest pointthen swings downhill and left over ridges toa green with Obidos lagoon as its backdrop.

44 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Just capitalLisbon is a city full of vitality, history and beauty while the surrounding region offers ataste of the “real” Portugal not found around the mass tourism resorts to the south.The area enjoys a mild climate year-round, and the capital is full of historic

neighbourhoods which are perfect for exploring on foot.Among places worth lingeringin is Baixa, the traditional shopping area through which runs the main shopping street ofRua Augusta. High-end boutiques line Avenida da Liberdade, once the favouritepromenade for Lisbon’s 19th century elite.There are more designer boutiques in Bairro Alto, along with lively bars and cafes.

History abounds in the capital’s old quarters, including Alfama, Castelo and Mouraria, onthe hill crowned by St George’s Castle.And Belem’s waterfront boasts the fortifiedBelem Tower, Jeronimo’s Monastery and the Monument to the Discoveries.

PeterEllegard

� Monument to the Discoveries, Lisbon � Belem Tower

� Rua Augusta

� The WestinCampoReal's landwas once a royalhunting ground

PeterEllegard

Lisbon VCB

LisbonVCB

� Praia d’el Ray

Bom Sucesso has been styled to replicatethe look of old, classic courses, and featuresrandom shaping of green surrounds andapproaches to look as though they werefashioned by hand tools. The steep-facedbunkers also have a rough-hewn appearance.

Other courses in the region includeAroeira’s two 18-hole layouts, the oak andvineyard-flanked Montado with a castlestanding guard over it, Sintra’s Belas andGolden Eagle, 60km north of Lisbon.

With so much quality and choice of golfcourses, surely it can’t be long before theLisbon Golf Coast is as celebrated as theAlgarve. Indeed, it could even becomePortugal’s capital attraction for golfers.

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 45

Beyond LisbonEstoril and Cascais are considered the“Portuguese Riviera” and offer heritage,culture and great beaches. Sintra’s richhistoric legacy led to it being called “agarden of the earthly paradise” by poetLord Byron, and it is now a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site. Other UNESCO sitesare the monasteries of Batalha andAlcobaca andTomar’s Templar Castle andConvent of Christ. Almourol Castle, builton a small granite island in the middle ofthe Tagus River near Tancos, dates from the12th century and is one of the best-preserved medieval monuments in Portugal.Captured from the Moors in 1148, the

town of Obidos has many attractions

including the fine castle which is now aPousada hotel offering guests sweepingviews.The region also has several nature parks,

including the Paul do Boquilobo NatureReserve, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.And this is also wine country, with vineyardsand wine cellars along the RibatejoWineRoute on both sides of theTagus.

TL

Lisboa

GolfCoast

PeterEllegard

Lisbon GOLF facts

Tourist informationFor information on the Lisbon Golf Coast, visit the LisbonVisitors &Convention Bureau website at www.visitlisboa.com or the PortugueseNational Tourist Office site,www.visitportugal.com

WeatherThe Lisbon area enjoys a warm, dry climate with golf playable year-round.Temperatures on the coast range from 14°C in winter to 26°C in summer.

Getting thereLisbon is well-served by direct flights from the UK.Services operate from several UK airports byairlines including TAP Air Portugal(www.flytap.com), British Airways(www.ba.com), easyJet (www.easyjet.com),Monarch (www.monarch.co.uk) and Thomsonfly(www.thomsonfly.com).

Golf packagesOperators with Lisbon packages includeYour Golf Travel (0800 043 6644,www.yourgolftravel.com), Golfbreaks.com (0800 279 7988,www.golfbreaks.com), Bill Goff Golf Tours (0844 414 0849,www.billgoff.com), Driveline Golf (0870 330 1056,www.drivelinegolf.com), Golf Amigos (0845 230 3100,www.golfamigos.co.uk), Premier Iberian (0845 600 3391,www.premieriberian.com) and Leisure Link Golf Holidays (01277247520,www.leisurelinkgolf.com).

CoursesBom Sucesso Design Resort, Leisure& Golfwww.bomsucesso.net/portugal-golf

Penha Longa Hotel & Golf Resortwww.penhalonga.com

Praia d’El Rey Golf & Beach Resortwww.praia-del-rey.com

Quinta da Marinha Oitavos Duneswww.oitavosdunes.com

Westin Camporeal Golf Resort &Spawww.westin.com/camporeal

Hotel Quinta da Marinha Resortwww.quintadamarinha.com

LisbonVCB

� Historic Sintra � Estoril beach

� Penha Longa

PenhaLongaHotel&GolfResort

46 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Eight UK golf clubs feature among the lead-ing 20 courses in a new listing of theworld’s best 100 courses.

The Top 100 Golf Courses website(www.top100golfcourses.co.uk) has justannounced its 2009 rankings. And it puts fiveScottish courses in the top 20, along with twofrom Northern Ireland and one from England.There is also one listed for Ireland.

All the others in the leading 20, barring oneAustralian entry (Royal Melbourne, at 14), areAmerican. That includes the top two – Pine ValleyGolf Club in New Jersey and Cypress Point, onCalifornia’s Monterey Peninsula. Both are private,so visiting golfers cannot play them.

That is also the case for several others, amongthem the fifth-ranked Augusta National, home ofthe Masters. You can play on ninth-placed PebbleBeach, a near neighbour of Cypress Point and2010 US Open venue, but a round will set youback $500 all but $5.

The highest-ranked home course is third-placedRoyal County Down, in Northern Ireland, whichalso has Royal Portrush in 12th. Scotland’s bestshowing is by the 2009 Open host, Turnberry’sAilsa course, in sixth place. Its other leading facil-ities are Muirfield (eighth), Royal Dornoch (16th),St Andrews’ Kingsbarns (18th) and the venerableOld Course at St Andrews, where the 2010 Open

takes place, at 20th.England’s sole top 20 entry is another Open

venue, Royal Birkdale, at 15th. Sunningdale and2011 Open host Royal St George’s are furtherdown, in 24th and 27th spots respectively. Ireland’sBallybunion weighs in at 10th.

Unveiling its findings, the website said its rank-ings “take into account every shred of ranking datapublished” and acknowledged that “many eye-brows will be raised as some clubs have slippeddramatically and others have risen meteorically.”

“Naturally we all know that ranking golf cours-es is a subjective business,” it added, “especiallygiven that fewer people have played the entireWorld Top 100 ranked courses than the number ofastronauts to have set foot on the moon.”

Didn’t Apollo 14 astronaut Alan Shepard playthat…?

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 47

golf NEWS

GOLF CLIPSGolf GPS companySkyCaddie has added thenew, entry-level SG2.5Lite toits range.The rechargeable,compact rangefinder, asibling to the top-of-the-range SG5model, costs£149.95 andwill work on95% of theUK’s 18-holecourses. Formoreinformationand stockists, visitwww.skycaddie.co.uk

UK golfers are five timesmore likely to book a teetime online this yearcompared to last year,according to leading internetcompany Online Teetimes.Launched two years ago, itreported over £1.2 millionin online green fee sales inthe first eightmonths of2009, withAugustaloneseeingover 20,000 rounds bookedonline.The company has itsown website(www.teetimes.co.uk) andmarkets through partners.

The Hyatt RegencyCuracao Golf Resort, Spa &Marina opens its doors inJanuary as the Caribbeanisland’s only resort with 18holes of championship golf,featuring a 7,200-yardcourse designed by PeteDye.The resort will alsooffer a Hyatt Pure spa,fitness centre, tennis, cyclingand jogging paths, and watersports including diving.www.curacao.hyatt.com

Golf legend Jack Nicklausvisited Manchester inSeptember to give some

coaching tips and life skills adviceto a group of lucky youngsters.

The 18-time Major winner,nicknamed the Golden Bear,spent time with 25 young boysand girls at Southport’s FormbyHall Golf Resort & Spa with acoaching clinic and Q&A ses-sion as part of The First Tee proj-ect, which has launched its firstUK chapter in Manchester. Itaims to offer young people in thearea the chance to use golf tolearn valuable life skills, throughaspects such as sportsmanship

and the game’s honourable tradi-tions.

Jack, whose visit was spon-sored by RBS, said afterwards:“The First Tee is not just about

playing golf. It is much more. Itis about giving back to yourcommunity, helping others andusing the game and its life les-sons to succeed in life.”

Top of the crop

The Bear necessities

PeterEllegard

GettyImages

� St Andrews’ Old Course… ranked the world’s 20th best course

� Jack takes a whack at the coaching clinic

48 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

We welcomed ourclimbers as heroes.My husband and mybrothers stumbledthrough the door,glowing with pride

that they had accompanied my then 70-year-old father to fulfil an ambition he had

cherished for half a century, of reachingScafell Pike, the highest peak in England.

My father’s story is typical – it can take alifetime of visits to thoroughly explore the885 square miles of Cumbria which form theLake District and to achieve everything youwant to on its lakes and mountains. The goodnews is that because each season emphasises

another aspect of its natural beauty, there isalways a reason to justify a trip there.

I particularly enjoy the Lake District inautumn, which ushers in tints to areas suchas Grizedale Forest in South Lakeland, torival those of New England in the fall.Winter leaves caps of snow on the highestpeaks until April and offers lots of excusesfor hunkering down in cosy pubs over beersfrom one of 24 local breweries. Spring scat-ters those famous daffodils acrossWordsworth’s Grasmere, dancing in thebreeze now as they did when he wrote IWandered Lonely as a Cloud over 200years ago. And summer sees heavily scented

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 49

The beauty and magnificence of the Lake District hasdrawn tourists since its favourite son, Wordsworth,

inspired people with his poetry about it. ForStephanie Sparrow, it has been a life-long family affair…

LAKE DISTRICT

Poet’scorner

Cumbria Tourism/Ben Barden

� Coniston Water andthe fells around

Coniston Old Man

on your DOORSTEP

displays in the Edwardian gardens ofBrockhole Visitor Centre, the perfectplace to take afternoon tea and lookover at the yachts and pleasurecruisers on Lake Windermere.

SanctuaryEngland’s largest national park hassomething to offer everyone. Nomatter what the season of your life,from childhood to retirement, this isan area to fuel the imagination, withits literary connections, pumpadrenalin with sports like off-road-ing, or, as Gordon Brown and hisfamily found during their recent

“staycation” there, find sanctuary from theworld outside.

Energetic visitors have nearly 2,200miles of rights of way to walk, cycle andride horses around, and 16 lakes to sail,

windsurf or kayak. Anyoneseeking a more restful

time can indulgein extensive

retail therapy inthe smart little townssuch as Ambleside and

Kendal, try some of thelocal food,

such asCumberland

sausage or sticky toffee pudding, or travelin style with the National Trust on ConistonWater in Gondola, a steam-powered yacht(www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-gondola).

I was lucky enough to grow up with myfather’s colourful tales of the Lake District,and frequent family trips there which gaveme a sense of the region and its layout. But Iwould advise first-timers to plan an itinerarywith the golakes website and not to be over-ambitious about the distances you can coverin a day – either by foot or car.

Geological wonderMy father would describe the grandeur of itsmountains, and the geological wonder of a

50 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

CumbriaTourism

/DaveWillis

CumbriaTourism

/DaveWillis

CumbriaTourism

/DaveWillis

Cumbria Tourism/DaveWillis

CumbriaTourism

/BrianSherwen

� Spoon Hall riding centre, Coniston

� Wordsworthbust in window

� Cockermouth

� Daffodils atLake Windermere

region shaped by the Ice Age. The locationshe mentioned are still lodged in my mind, asis the childhood impression that the LakeDistrict – full of becks, tarns, pikes, ghyllsand crags – had its own private language.

My favourite of all my father’s tales wasof his first trip there with his mother and sis-ter in 1944, while his own father was away inWWII. As they arrived in Keswick my fatherwas smitten with the view of Derwentwaterand the scary-sounding Jaws of Borrowdale(so called because of the shape of the gorge).He was just 14 but it was the beginning of hislasting love affair with the Lakes.

His first climb took place on that tripand it was up Catbells, on the western

shore of Derwent Water. This 1,480ft fellremains popular with inexperienced walk-ers, as it is recommended by renownedauthor and walker Alfred Wainwright as “afamily fell where grandmothers and infantscan climb the heights together”.Wainwright’s guidebooks have long beenused by many of the eight million annualvisitors to the Lakes, but now it hasbecome even easier to walk withWainwright, particularly if you have aniPod. Newly-narrated versions of his walksare available in podcast versions down-loadable from the golakes site(www.golakes.co.uk/downloads/wainwright-audio-tours.aspx).

Mass tourismAlongside Wainwright, another W, thelocally-born poet laureate WilliamWordsworth, is synonymous with the area.His Guide to the Lakes, published in 1820,sparked off mass tourism to the area.

The easiest way to get to knowWordsworth is to start with Dove Cottage,which is just outside Grasmere in a hamletcalled Townend. Wordsworth lived therefrom 1799 to 1808 when his poetry wasmost prolific. It was here that he pennedhis iconic poem about daffodils.

The Wordsworth Trust(www.wordsworth.org.uk) offers guidedtours of the cottage. A museum standsalongside and has a permanent display aboutWordsworth and the other Romantic poets.The trust also aims to encourage new poetryand offers internationally-important festivalsand readings throughout the year.

Farther north is the Wordsworth Housein Cockermouth. This is a living museumoperated by the National Trust(www.wordsworthhouse.org.uk), whichaims to show how a typical Georgian family– William, his parents and his four siblings –lived at the time.

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 51

The greatoutdoorsA gentle stroll…..The Lakes are known as a paradise for allwalkers.They have recently been madeeven more accessible by the launch ofMiles without Stiles, a list of 39 routesacross the National Park suitable forpeople with limited mobility.Visitors canchoose paths from the list on thededicated Miles without Stiles section ofthe National Park website,www.lake-district.gov.uk

….Or a wild adventureThrill-seekers will find plenty ofopportunities in the Lake District to tryscrambling through rocky streams forexample, and even paragliding around theregion. However, they are advised tocheck the providers’ qualifications and tofollow safety instructions. For a list ofproviders log on to the outdooradventure section of golakeswebsite,www.golakes.co.uk

CumbriaTourism

/Ben

Barden

� Launch approachingBrantwood Jetty onConiston Water

Family-friendlyOf course, there are plenty of other authors’haunts to explore around the region, amongthem social commentator John Ruskin, chil-dren’s adventure writer Arthur Ransome andeven Postman Pat author John Cunliffe, whospent time there. But perhaps the most fam-ily-friendly is the Beatrix Potter connection.Young children can explore her worldthrough recreations of the characters andscenes in her 23 books at The World ofBeatrix Potter Attraction in Bowness(www.hop-skip-jump.com).

Adults find her interesting too, andcan re-trace her footsteps in Hill TopFarm, in Hawkshead near Ambleside,now operated by The National Trust(www.nationaltrust.org.uk). This is the farmbought with the profits from Peter Rabbit,where she wrote many of her stories includingThe Tale of Tom Kitten.

Potter bequeathed Hill Top and a further4,000 acres to the National Trust to protectthe Lake District from developers, and forfuture generations to enjoy. Luckily, herwish came true.

52 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Lake District factsDid you know?The Lake District always thinks big. It ishome to many record breakers:� England has only five peaks over 900

metres (2,953 feet) and they are all inthe Lakes.The tallest is Scafell Pike at977m (3,205 ft).

� England’s deepest lake can be found inthe region.Wastwater has a depth upto 259 feet and is three miles long byhalf a mile wide.

� Its longest lake is there too.Windermere stretches across 10.5miles fromWaterhead in the north toLakeside in the south.

� It is home to “Britain’s Favourite View”as voted for by ITV viewers, whochoseWastwater in theWasdaleValley.

TL

Getting thereRail: TheWest Coast mainline (www.virgintrains.co.uk) runs to the east ofthe Lake District, connecting Oxenholme, Penrith and Carlisle with London andGlasgow. Journey times from London Euston are typically under three hours.Buses: Popular towns and villages such as Ambleside,Windermere, Conistonand Keswick are linked by bus, with extra services in the summer.www.cumbria.gov.ukBy car: Typical journey time from London and the South East is about fivehours.The M6 runs to the east of the Lake District National Park.�Tip: Even A-roads can be quite twisting, so allow extra time for your jour-ney and for finding a space in car parks in high season.By air: The nearest airports are Manchester to thesouth and Glasgow to the north. Rail links fromManchester airport offer services to Oxenholme,Kendal, Staveley andWindermere.

AccommodationThe Lake District has accommodation for every budget, fromyouth hostels to luxury hotels. Hardy souls are attracted to camping in thearea, or even specially adapted camping barns which can be found atwww.lakelandcampingbarns.co.ukOne of the simplest ways to find accommodation is via the official tourismwebsite:www.golakes.co.uk/accommodation

AttractionsThe most popular attraction in the area isWindermere Lake Cruises(www.windermere-lakecruises.co.uk), which draws more than a millionpassengers a year.But if you want to get more active, join the walkers who regularly name theLake District as their favourite destination. Plan your route with the outdooradventure section of the region’s official website (www.golakes.co.uk).First-time visitors are advised to spend time at the Lake District VisitorCentre in Brockhole, to get a flavour of the area. Its lakeside setting (you cantravel there by ferry in the summer) and popular cafe offer views overWindermere.www.lake-district.gov.ukThe Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway is a very popular steam railway whichruns for seven miles from the Lake District National Park’s only coastal villageof Ravenglass in theWestern Lake District, through hidden Miterdale to theimposing Eskdale valley.www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk

Information centresThese are based at Bowness, Keswick and Ullswater.They can be invaluable,particularly when looking for accommodation or getting to grips with the localbus service.Their addresses can be found at www.lake-district.gov.uk

� Borrowdale, Derwent Water and Skiddaw

CumbriaTourism

/Ben

Barden

CumbriaTourism

/TonyW

est

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 53

54 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

&aboutWhat’s on... and where

Out

What could be betterthan spending a daylearning about cheeseand wine-making? TheDenbies wine andcheese experiencetakes place on Thursday,November 19.In the morning, step

back in time with a visitto Surrey’s only hand-made cheese producer,Norbury Blue Dairy.You will learn all aboutthe cheese-makingprocess and have theopportunity to try yourhand at making cheesein the traditional way.Lunch will be served

at DenbiesWine Estate,England’s largestvineyard, set in 265acres of vines.Then theafternoon will be spentlearning about theblending of wine andwine styles in the

working winery with aDenbies wine expert.You will have theopportunity to blendyour own winefollowed by a tasting inthe Denbies Cellar.The day costs £85 per

person and includes allrefreshments, a mementobottle of Denbies wineand some Norbury Bluecheese.Call 01306876616 or go towww.denbies.co.ukfor further details.

Santa’s Magical Kingdom is abrand new Christmas experienceat The Hop Farm in Paddock

Wood, Kent. Depart on a magical trainjourney full of festive surprises, makedecorations in Santa’s workshop,watch a seasonal puppet show, singcarols in the snow-filled square andenjoy some mulled wine and roastedchestnuts.

Santa’s Magical Kingdom is openfrom Saturday, November 14 untilThursday, December 24. Tickets cost

from £25-£49 depending on time anddate booked. Call 01622 870821 or go towww.santasmagicalkingdom.co.ukfor bookings and information.

If you are a soup fan, youwill love the latest bookby the New Covent

Garden Food Co. Its newoffering, Soup for AllOccasions, is packed full ofgreat recipes for you and thefamily to enjoy while explor-ing the great outdoors.

Published by Macmillan,this stunning book is dividedinto five chapters, each focusing on adifferent occasion with ideas that willhelp you take a fresh look at soup.Delve inside the Out & About chapterand you’ll find a host of deliciousrecipes designed to be enjoyed on fami-ly walks, rambles and hikes. The recipesrange from classics such as oxtail todecadent delights like roasted chestnut

and truffle oil and morehearty and warming concoc-tions including borlotti bean,pancetta and pasta. There are

even several child-friendly recipes in thebook.Available now from all

good bookshops, it is priced£15.99.

We have 10 copies of Soupfor All Occasions to give away. To winone, go to www.choicetravelinfo.comand click on competitions & giveaways.Terms & conditions apply. Closing dateis October 30, 2009.

For further information about theNew Covent Garden Food Co’s deli-cious range of products, go towww.newcoventgardenfood.com

Be a soup star– and WIN one of 10 copiesof Soup for All Occasions

Santa hops down to the farm

Wine and cheesemake for a perfect day

� Traditional cheese-making

� Blendyour ownwine

� CatchSanta onthe hop

Oxford CastleGhost FestOxfordOctober 16-31,various times. Entryfrom £20England’s premier ghostfestival is back for a 16-day supernaturalextravaganza includingcelebrity-led vigils, risingstar and popular teenpsychic Ross Bartlett,and a one-off specialwith the unlocking ofthe mysteriousunderground tunnelsthat lie betweenOxford’s old prison andthe ancient court rooms.With more than 15

recorded ghosts and avery lively paranormalhistory documentedsince 1071, the OxfordCastle Unlocked visitor

attraction along with thenation’s leading ghost-hunting specialists, FrightNights, will give you anexperience toremember.For further

information or to booktickets, go towww.frightnights.co.ukor call 0114 251 3232.

Meet the BordeHillWitchesBorde Hill, SussexOctober 24-November 1, 10am-6pm (or dusk ifearlier). Adult £7.50,child £4Fearless young visitorsto the beautiful andhistoric Borde HillGarden will be in for ascary treat, following thePumpkin Trail andmeeting the terrifyingwitches who live in the

haunted house withinthe enchanted garden.Throughout

HalloweenWeek,intrepid explorers cantake part in Borde Hill’sSpooktacular Hunt andsearch for the hair-raising clues hidden bythe witches that leadstraight to their hauntedhouse. Once inside, onlythe bravest will dare toput their hand into thebubbling cauldron to pullout a trick or a treat.

Courageous childrenwho survive meeting thewitches can then enterthe ghost tent andbecome a vampire,skeleton or witch andmake a ghoulish mobileto hang at home toscare the family.www.bordehill.co.uk

Indiana JonesFireworks ShowLegoland,WindsorOctober 24, 25, 30 &31;November 1 & 7Adult £37, child £28This spectacular showtakes on an Indiana Jonestheme.While at Legoland,families can enjoy over 50interactive rides, showsand attractions as well asa new Kingdom of thePharaohs land to explore.www.legoland.co.uk

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 55

Get into theHalloween spirit

With Halloween approaching, one of themost popular activities for children istrick-or-treating.

Although generally associated with America, it isbelieved that the Irish began the tradition of trick-or-treating during the ancient Celtic festival of Samhain(pronounced sow-in).

In preparation for All Hallow’s Eve (the eve of All

Saints Day), Irish townsfolk would visit neighboursand ask for contributions of food for a feast in thetown.

Apple-bobbing, scary costumes and carving pump-kins are also old Halloween traditions but if you don’twant the hassle of arranging it yourself, there are plen-ty of fantastic local events that you can go to.

Here are a few taking place around the region:

The Haunted CastleDover Castle, KentOctober 26-31www.english-heritage.org.uk

Haunted HalloweenBoatTripLady of LeeValley moorings,HertfordshireOctober 29, 10am-noon and1-3pm. Booking essential, on08456 770 600www.leevalleypark.org.uk

Halloween MonsterMadnessPainshill Park, SurreyOctober 26-31www.painshill.co.uk

HalloweenWeekBasildon Park, BerkshireOctober 28-31www.visitthames.co.uk

Fright Night FireworksBeaulieu, HampshireSaturday October 31www.beaulieu.co.uk

OTHERHALLOWEENEVENTS:

S.Morgan

� Spook it up in Oxford

� Whichwitch iswhich?

out & ABOUT

OxfordCastleGhostFest

BordeHill

Get into thespirit of Canada– and WINone of 2 Flipvideo camerasWith summer now a distantmemory, thoughts are alreadyturning towards winter. NextFebruary sees the biggestevent in the winter sportingcalendar – the 2010WinterOlympic Games.Olympic hopefuls will be

competing in British Columbia’sbeautifulWest Coast city ofVancouver (pictured right),which is hosting the Gamesalong with nearby venuesincluding the ski resort ofWhistler, where the downhillevents will be staged on itssnow-covered mountain slopes.Millions will watch the

drama unfold on TV. But youdon’t have to wait until then toget into the spirit of Canada –thanks to a fantastic

competition in conjunctionwith the Canadian TourismCommission.We are givingaway two Canada-branded,orange Flip Ultra videocameras, worth £80 each.These fun and simple-to-use,

pocket-sized camcorders canbe taken anywhere and hold 60minutes of VGA-quality videowith one-touch recording anda digital zoom.A flip-out USBarm plugs directly into yourcomputer so you can instantlyplay back your recordings,

capture still photos or uploadvideos to file-sharing websites.And if theWinter Games

whet your appetite forexploring Canada, visitwww.canada.travel forinformation and ideas onplanning trips there.

How to enterTo win one of two Canada-branded Flip camcorders, justanswer the following question.

Question: Where will thedownhill ski races for the 2010Winter Games be staged?

To enter, please go towww.choicetravelinfo.comand click on the competition &giveaways button. See thewebsite for terms &conditions.

Closing date is October 30,2009.The first correctentry drawn will win.

If you love quality but hate formality, youwill adore the Urban Beach. That is thephilosophy of this award-winning bou-

tique hotel in Bournemouth, Dorset.Located just a five-minute walk from the

beach in recently-transformed Boscombe –home to Wayne Hemmingway’s new, sexysurf pods and Europe’s first artificial surfreef – the Urban Beach is perfect for a breakaway from it all.

Each of the 12 rooms has been decadent-ly designed with fabrics from around theworld, sumptuous linen, DVD players, bou-tique bathrooms and wi-fi internet access.The hotel also has a funky bar and restaurantwhere you can listen to local live bands, tryone of the famous Urban Beach cocktails orfeast on locally-sourced food fresh from thekitchen.

The Urban Beach goes much further thanany other hotel in Dorset, not just with itsaward-winning accommodation; it also pro-

vides a contemporary lifestyle that hasspared no expense in creating the “home-away-from-home” feel.

Now you can win a two-night, mid-week

stay for two with breakfast at the UrbanBeach in this fabulous competition, worthover £250.

For more information about the UrbanBeach, go to www.urbanbeachhotel.co.ukor call 01202 301509.

How to enterTo win, simply answer the following question.

Question: In which part of Bournemouth isthe Urban Beach hotel located?

For your chance to win, go towww.choicetravelinfo.com and click onthe competition & giveaways button. Seethe website for terms & conditions.

Closing date is October 30, 2009. Thefirst correct entry drawn will win. Theprize must be be claimed beforeDecember 24 2009.

56 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

COMPETITIONS

WIN two nights at the stunningUrban Beach hotel in Bournemouth

Food MarketsLondon’s wholesaletrade has largely consol-idated at Smithfield formeat and poultry,Billingsgate for fish,Covent Garden, andSpitalfields andBrentford (now WesternInternational Market) forfruit and vegetables.Borough Market inSouthwark is probablyLondon’s oldest fruit andvegetable market, dating

back to before the 11thcentury. Today, it is asuccessful wholesale andretail market and a pop-ular tourist site.

Billingsgate FishMarketTrafalgar Way, E14Tues-Sat 5-8.30amDLR: Poplar, BlackwallOpen to the public butno children under 12.The first Billingsgatemarket building opened

on Lower Thames Streetin 1850. It relocated toPoplar, near CanaryWharf, in 1982 and isthe UK’s largest inlandfish market, selling anaverage of 25,000 tonnesof fish and fish productseach year.www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/billingsgate

Borough MarketBorough High Street, SE1Thurs 11am-5pm, Fri

noon-6pm, Sat 8am-5pmTube: London BridgeA delightful mix ofgood-value cuts of meat,seasonal fish, vegetablesand fruits and expensivedelicacies. Also popularfor its surroundingrestaurants and shops.www.boroughmarket.org.uk

Smithfield MarketCharterhouse Street, EC1Mon-Fri 4-10amTube: Farringdon,

BarbicanOriginally a live cattlemarket, you will findmeat and poultry,cheese, pies and otherdelicatessen goods here.www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/smithfield

Clothing &fashionHaggle to your heartscontent and bag bargainsat one of London’s many

58 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

HitLondon’smarketsand bagyourselfsomebargains

Street markets are part of London’s richand varied history. In 1800, centralLondon had more than 30 public mar-

kets of different types whose heritage remainsin street names such as Poultry, Old FishStreet, Bread Street and Milk Street.

London has Europe’s longest outdoorstreet market, spanning over 1,000 yards ofWalthamstow High Street. Camden’s trendy

markets are the fourth most visited touristattraction in London, attracting over 500,000visitors each week with a turnover makingthem Britain’s fourth largest retailer. Streetmarkets are something for Londoners to beproud of, so from the traditional to the quirky,soak up the vibrant atmosphere and join insome bargain hunting. And tuck in to somepie and mash or jellied eels as you shop!

Street smartvisitlondonimages/britainonview

FMRichard

� Oysters atPimlico Road

� Looking for prints at Alice’sshop on Portobello Road

clothes markets.Petticoat Lane in TowerHamlets is one of thecity’s most famousSunday markets, estab-lished when theHuguenots from Francearrived in the 17th cen-tury and began sellingpetticoats and lace there.In 1843, the lane wasrenamed MiddlesexStreet, to avoid referenceto ladies’ undergar-ments.

Petticoat Lane MarketMiddlesex and GoulstonStreets, E1Sun 9am-2pm; smallermarket Mon-Fri onWentworth Street.Tube: Aldgate East,AldgateA bustling East Endmarket with over 1,000stalls selling clothes,bric-a-brac, electronicitems and, notably,leather items – at theAldgate East end.www.visitlondon.com

Camden MarketsCamden High Street,NW1Mon-Sun 10am-6pmTube: Camden TownThe first market here wasCamden Lock Market, in1972. A hotspot for alter-native fashion from cyberand funky to vintage andgothic, you’ll find it all inthe five connecting areasthat make up Camden’smarkets. It’s also great forantiques, furnishings andtextiles.www.camdenmarkets.org

Old SpitalfieldsMarketHorner Square, E1Mon-Fri 11am-3pm, Sun10am-5pmTube: Liverpool Street,Aldgate East

One of the finest surviv-ing market halls, built in1876, vivid fashions, aninternational food courtand niche shops offervisitors a unique shop-ping paradise with quirkyone-off creations by stu-dents from the nearby artand design college.www.oldspitalfields-market.com

Antiques/arts& craftsAfter some special, eye-catching jewellery? Thenrummage through one of

London’s thrivingantiques markets.Portobello Road, runningthrough the heart ofNotting Hill, has been amarket since the 1800swhen gypsies came tobuy and sell horses, butbecame famous for itsantiques in the 1950s.

Portobello RoadMarket, W11Sat 8am-5pm

Tube: Notting Hill GateAntiques stalls run forhalf a mile, making itthe world’s largestantiques market. It alsooffers arts and crafts,food, bric-a-brac, clothesand music, as well assome lovely cafes, artgalleries and arcades.www.portobelloroad.co.uk

Bermondsey SquareAntiques MarketSouthwark, SE1Fri 4am-1pmTube: London BridgeDating to 1855, thievescould famously sell theirgoods here with impuni-ty; under a royal licence,stolen goods boughthere did not have to bereturned. Today, you canfind furniture, silver,china and glasswarefrom Georgian toEdwardian times.www.bermondseysquare.co.uk

Bayswater RoadArtists GalleryBayswater Road, W2Sun 10am-6pmTube: Lancaster GateOver 250 artists displaytheir work every Sunday,transforming the railingsof Kensington Gardensand Hyde Park into theworld’s largest regularopen-air art show. Buyoil paintings, water-colours, acrylics, draw-ings, pastels and sculp-tures at studio prices.

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 59

STREET MARKETSLONDON Review

Farmers’ marketsHead to one of London's 15 farmers’ markets –where everything is fresh and grown, reared,raised, baked, caught or produced by farms within100 miles of the M25. Find your local market onwww.lfm.org.uk or phone 020 7833 0338.

BlackheathBlackheath Rail Station Car Park, SE3Sun 10am-2pm. Rail: BlackheathTraders include: Saffrey Farm (Kent veg, someorganic); Green Poultry (East Anglian poultry);Redlays Farm (dairy produce from Ayrshire cows).

Wimbledon ParkWimbledon Park First School, SW19Sat 9am-1pm.Tube:Wimbledon ParkTraders at this popular market include: March House(Leicestershire beef and lamb); Grange Nurseries(Bucks nursery selling good-value cut flowers);Greens of Glastonbury (Somerset Cheddar).

Pimlico RoadOrange Square, SW1Sat 9am-1pmTube: Sloane SquareOne of London’s biggestfarmers’ markets, traders include:12 Green Acres (rare-breed meats); Muddy Boots(traditionally-farmed Aberdeen Angus beef cattle);Richard Haward (West Mersea oysters).

Market eventsHalloween Slow Food MarketSouthbank CentreOct 30-31, 11am-6pm.Tube/Train:WaterlooApple-bobbing, pumpkins and sweet treats.www.southbanklondon.com

Apple DayBorough Market, Southwark Street, SE1Oct 25.Tube: London BridgeCelebrate the Bramley’s 250th anniversary.www.boroughmarket.org.uk

New farmers’ marketsBrixton,Brixton Station Road, SW9Sun, 10am-2pm.Tube: Brixton

Devonshire Square Farmers’ MarketDevonshire Square, EC2FirstWed of each month, 8am-3.30pmTube: Liverpool Street

visitlondonimages/britainonview/PawelLibera

FMRichard

visitlondonimages/britainonview.com

/IngridRasmussen

� Browsing inSpitalfields Market

One of London’s mosthistoric events – theLord Mayor’s Show –

takes to the streets at 11am onSaturday, November 14 whenthe 682nd Lord Mayor ofLondon leads the colourful pro-cession from Mansion House.

It continues a tradition datingback to 1215, when King Johngranted a charter allowing thecitizens of London to elect theirown Lord Mayor.

In a procession extendingmore than three miles, around6,000 people from acrossLondon will come together tocelebrate their city’s cultural her-itage and its diverse modernity.It travels to St Paul’s Cathedral,where the Lord Mayor isblessed, and on to the RoyalCourts of Justice, on the Strand,where he takes an oath of alle-giance to the sovereign then setsoff on the return journey to

Mansion House, arriving at 2-2.30pm.

More than 60 organisationsare taking part, ranging fromBattersea Dogs and Cats Hometo the British Red Cross Society.

One of the show’s aims is todevelop social and practicalskills of young people inLondon, represented by fourfloats from inner London com-munity groups: Hackney-based

Tropical Isles, City of LondonAcademy (Southwark) second-ary school, International Danceand Music Centre andStreetwise Opera.

Following the procession, theLord Mayor will launch a spec-tacular fireworks display at 5pmon the Thames betweenBlackfriars Bridge and WaterlooBridge.www.lordmayorshow.org

Licenceto thrillThe coolest way to experi-

ence the River Thames ison an exhilarating ride withLondon RIB Voyages. Speedthrough London at up to 35knots under the capital’sfamous bridges and pastLondon’s landmarks. Suitablefor all the family from toddlersto grannies, trips depart hourlyfrom the London Eye Pier, tak-

ing 12 passengers on a thrilling50-minute adventure. Theyoperate every day of the yearregardless of the weather, withpassengers kitted out in wetweather gear. Themes includea James Bond Adventure rideand Captain Kidd’s CanaryWharf Voyage, priced from£19.50 for children and£32.50 for adults. Call 0207928 8933 10am-6pm sevendays a week or go online atwww.londonribvoyages.comto book.

Watch the wishes of yourfavourite fairy-tale

princesses come true in DisneyOn Ice presents PrincessWishes. From Ariel wishing fora life above the sea to Belleyearning for adventure, the talesof all seven princesses – Ariel,Cinderella, Jasmine, Belle, Snow

White, Mulan and Aurora – aretold by special guest Tinker Bellin this production guaranteed todelight young and old.Disney On Ice presentsPrincess WishesWhere: O2 Arena LondonWhen: Oct 28-Nov 1, Nov 6-8Tickets: From £16.50. Book onwww.ticketmaster.co.uk, 0844847 2255 or www.theo2.co.uk,0844 856 0202.

60 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

NEWS & WHAT'S ON

LONDON Review

The ShawshankRedemptionSep 4-Feb 14Wyndhams Theatre, CharingCross,WC2H 0DATube: Leicester SquareAn adaptation of the 1994 filmbased on Stephen King’s classicnovel about Andy Dufresne(Kevin Anderson), a bankerconvicted of murdering hiswife and her lover andsentenced to life in thenotorious Shawshank Prison.Tickets from £10.0844 482 5125www.theshawshankredemption.co.uk

EndgameOct 2-Dec 5Duchess Theatre, 3-5Catherine Street,WC2B 5LATube: Covent GardenThis new production ofSamuel Beckett’s darkly-comic play by SimonMcBurney, has old, blindHamm (Mark Rylance) andhis servant Clov (McBurney)trapped in daily routine andcut off from the world.Tickets from £20.0844 412 4659www.nimaxtheatres.com

Opening at Tate Modern,Bankside on Oct 1,Pop Life:Art in a MaterialWorldexplores the relationshipbetween art, commerce andcelebrity and examines howartists have promoted theirwork with their own brands.See work byTracey Emin,Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons andAndyWarhol.Pop Life:Art in a MaterialWorldOct 1-Jan 17. Open Sun-Thurs 10am-6pm, Fri-Sat10am-10pm.Admission£12.50, (concessions £10.50)www.tate.org.uk/modern/

NNeeww oonn ssttaaggee

PPOOPP aarrtt

Lording it on London’s streets

Disney

� The LordMayor’s Show isan ancienttradition

� High speed thrills

London RIB Voyages

Ice princesses

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 61

62 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 63

64 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 65

HOTELS

BEST for…

Enjoy a relaxingstay in YorkshireTreat yourselfto a bargainbreak atTankersleyManor with ourspecial offer.You can save

over 50% on arelaxing two-nightstay, paying just£200 per couplefor deluxe upgraded accommodation, full Yorkshirebreakfast, a three-course dinner on both eveningsand a bottle of house red wine in your room onarrival.You can also take advantage of a two-for-one

ticket deal to either Chatsworth House orHarewood House, both members of the TreasureHouses of England.Set in award-winning grounds,Tankersley Manor

is a member of the prestigious QHotels collection,named as AA Hotel Group of theYear for 2008-2009. Incorporating a 17th century building withina modern hotel with many original featuresretained, it has 100 well-appointed en-suitebedrooms, including four-poster rooms and suites,with internet access and satellite TV.Guests have free use of the Leisure Club with

its magnificent indoor pool,Technogym, steamroom, sauna, and spa bath.They can also enjoypampering ESPA body treatments.*The hotel is ideally located for shopping, close

to Barnsley and Sheffield, and near one of Britain’slargest indoor shopping centres.To book, call 0845 074 0050 or email

tankersleymanor@QHotels.co.uk, quotingTravel & Leisure.For more information about Tankersley Manor

and other QHotels collection properties, visitwww.qhotels.co.uk

* Offer (based on two sharing a Junior Suite) validuntil March 31, 2010, excluding Christmas andNewYear and subject to availability of allocatedrooms. Spa treatment charges and singlesupplements apply.

Tankersley Manorbegan life as a17th century

manor house and stillhas original features,such as stone windowsills and original oakbeams. The impressivegrounds epitomise thecountryside and thespectacular Peaks andDales scenery is on thedoorstep. Yet this tran-quil hotel is close to theM1, making a visitexceptionally conven-ient. The rooms arepeaceful and fully-equipped to meet theneeds of guests whetheron business or pleasure.

The spa offers relax-ation after a long dayspent in meetings orshopping, with facilitiesincluding swimmingpool, steam room andsauna. The welcoming,friendly staff also imbuea calming effect, enhanc-ing the relaxed atmos-phere.

The restaurant andless-formal bar area offer

a tempting menu thatincludes some nationalfavourites, the fare pre-sented in a tempting style

with impeccable service.Nearby Chatsworth

and Harewood House arefine examples of Englishstately homes, featuringfine art, formal gardensand water features.

The Peak Districtoffers a variety of attrac-tions, including theHeights of Abraham, afamily business reachedby cable car (or walkingfor the brave). Once atthe summit visitors arerewarded with numerousoptions, including guidedtours of old mines.

A visit to TankersleyManor offers the choiceof a relaxing break orsomething more ener-getic if you prefer; eitherway an enjoyable stay isguaranteed.

Peter Lewsey

factboxTankersley ManorTankersley, BarnsleySouthYorkshire S753DQTel: 01226 744700www.qhotels.co.uk

Best for� Value for money� Attentive service� Spectacular

scenery� Excellent dining

Could do better� Wi-fi access could

be improved

Sneak off to the PeaksChecking out:

Tankersley Manor,Barnsley

READER OFFER� Exterior view ofTankersley Manor

� Hotel pool

66 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 67

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GET TO KNOWJAMAICAThe world’s “biggestlittle island”

PACK YOURCLUBSSpain’s ever-popularCosta del Sol

OFF THEBEATENTRACKBrazil – rainforest,beaches and Rio

LET’S TRYFamily skiing holidays

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September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 69

Travel and Leisure DirectoryChannel Islands

Norfolk

ALDERNEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS

L’HARAS GUEST HOUSENewtown Road,AlderneyChannel Islands GY9 3XP

All rooms have CH, H&C water,tea/coffee-making facilities andcolour TV; most are en suite.

Contact Mrs Jansen.

Tel/Fax: 01481 823174

lharas@internet.alderney.gg

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South Wales

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Canary Islands

Southern Scotland

70 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

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Canary Islands

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72 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

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Spain

Caravan & Camping

Caravan & Camping

PRIMROSE COTTAGE CARAVAN PARKGolden Hill, Whitstable, Kent CT5 3AR

01227 273694 campbell_brian@btconnect.comSmall, quiet site with views of the sea. Superstore, chemist and cafe close

by, coach/bus stop walking distance. Pitches for tents and touringcaravans with electric hook up points, level site. Pets welcome.Toilets,

showers, chemical disposal unit. Tourist information. Agent for Calor Gas.

PLUS! 6/7 berth static caravans for hire

PRIMROSE COTTAGE CARAVAN PARK

74 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

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