Textile waste mapping in Morocco and TunisiaDELIVERABLE DA.9 (final)English version
Introduction and methodology1.
Textile wastemapping in Morocco2.
Textile wastemapping in Tunisia3.
Introduction and methodology1.
This document is the final version of the mapping study of the textile waste value chain (post-industrial and pre-consumption) in Tunisia and Morocco, conducted by Blumine and Reverse Resources within the framework of the SwitchMed/MedTest III initiative launched by UNIDO.
The study includes:o an estimate of the volumes of waste generated by the textile and clothing industry in
Morocco and Tunisia by fiber, quality sector and regiono an assessment of the current and potential destinations of textile wasteo a description of the current and potential waste management and recycling value
chain o an analysis of the international scenario in the field of textile waste managemento an analysis of the evolution of textile recycling technologies and current
developmentso finally, an elaboration on the more suitable business models from which to select
potential pilot cases for the two countries
Introduction
4
4
Methodology5
The methodology for the quantitative estimation of waste, the assessment of current waste destinations and the description of the current and potential waste management and recycling value chain, is based on two main pillars:
1. A survey of a large sample of enterprises, for the collection and analysis of the ratio of waste to materials processed in production in the different sectors of the textile-clothing sector and other qualitative information useful for better understanding the waste management methods of textile and clothing enterprises
2. The creation of an accounting model of physical production flows in the textile-clothing supply chains of both countries: from the availability and import of raw materials, yarns and fabrics, to the production of clothing.
Methodology6
ESTIMATION OF THE WASTE/MATERIAL RATIO
The parameter of the waste/material ratio is estimated by subsector: spinning, weaving, cutting fabrics, manufacture of garments using the information collected from the 100 companies involved in the mapping survey, supplemented by information acquired in other countries.Given the objective is to estimate an average annual production of waste over the years, changes in the volumes of material stocks are not taken into account and are set at zero in the model.The waste/material ratio is applied to the volume of fibers processed and the amount of waste generated is calculated at each stage of the supply chain.
Methodology7
Waste/material ratio and waste management information
THE PRIMARY DATA COLLECTION CAMPAIGN
Target: all textile and clothing companiesObjective: to extend data collectionMethod: short on-line questionnaire
Target: a balanced sample by sector and size Objective: to collect richer information, to add qualitative information, Method: detailed questionnaire in the form of an interview
Target: 20 leading companiesObjective: to understand the practices, the challenges and the opportunitiesMethod: in-depth interview with the participation of the team of international experts. Quantitative data collection + qualitative information, views and perspectives
A THREE-LEVEL FUNNEL STRUCTURE
Source: Blumine and Reverse Resources
RESULT AND EVALUATION OF THE COLLECTION OF INFORMATION
The information collection campaign was blocked by the COVID outbreak in March 2020 when it became difficult if not impossible to contact companies to submit questionnaires or arrange interviews. In mid-September, the campaign restarted among many difficulties that led to a lower-than-expected participation rate of companies. 100 textile companies were involved in both countries (54 in Tunisia, 46 in Morocco) as well as a total of 8 recycling/waste management companies.
The two samples were merged into a single larger sample of 100 companies to estimate a common waste rate for each subsector for both countries.
Methodology8
QUESTIONNAIRES COLLECTED
Questionnaires+ FACE-TO-FACE INTERVIEWS
74
26
100 COMPANIES INVOLVED
8 WASTE/RECYCLERS
Source: Blumine and Reverse Resources
COOPERATION OF NATIONAL FEDERATIONS OF THE TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY (AMITH IN MOROCCO AND FTTH IN TUNISIA)The Blumine / Reverse Resources team acknowledge the support from AMITH (Moroccan Association ofTextile and Clothing Industries) and FTTH (Tunisian Textile and Clothing Federation) for the help incompiling the lists of companies, organizing regional meetings, distributing the online questionnaire, aswell as for the revision of documents and general support.
The findings of the mapping remain an independent estimate and by the Blumine/Reverse Resources team.
Methodology9
THE PRIMARY DATA COLLECTION CAMPAIGN
The sample of enterprises selected for the 3 levels of the survey was extractedfrom lists created from the combination of different sources including:
o In Tunisia: The Agency for the Promotion of Industry and Innovation – API;latest available lists of public brand installations (Benetton, C&A, PVH, ASOS,Esprit, G-Star-raw, Next, Levi's, VF, Adidas)
o In Morocco: AMITH database; list of exhibitors 2019 Morocco in Mode andMaroc Sourcing; latest available lists of public brand installations (ArcadiaGroup, Benetton, C&A, G-Star-raw, Inditex, John Lewis, Next, PVH, VF).
Results common to Morocco and Tunisia 10
Cotton waste generated in spinning is often reused in industry - for example, waste from combed cotton spinning is reused in carded cotton spinning. The waste rates calculated here are the average for the different fibres.Although dead stocks of clothing have increased dramatically with the COVID pandemic, the ratio considered in the study is the pre-pandemic level, considered a "normal level".
THE WASTE/MATERIAL RATIO BY SECTOR
CUTTINGWASTE
14,6%
WASTE RATIO SPINNING
10,6%
WASTE RATIOWEAVING
7,5%
DEADSTOCKSRATIO
OVERPRODUCTION RATIO
1,4%3,4%
Source: Blumine and Reverse Resources estimates
Ratio of waste to transformed material
The fabric cutting and spinning processes have the highest waste rate. The type of fiber strongly influences the waste rate, which is lower for synthetic fibers than for cotton.
MATERIAL FLOWS ANALYSIS
Methodology11
The method of material flow analysis is an accounting technique to track the physical in/out flows of material into and from the reference system and on the principles of mass conservation(*) (see diagram on the next page) • The boundaries of the system in question are the national clothing sector in each country. • At each stage of the supply chain, imports of raw materials and semi-products are the flows
into the system.• At each stage of the supply chain, exports, waste of the chain, retail sales on the domestic
market and exits to other industrial sectors are the outflow from the system.• The materials that remain inside the system are transformed and used in the next stage in
the chain.
(*) The accounting of physical flows, is based on the work carried out by the World Resource Institute at the end of the 1990s and subsequently adapted for European countries by Eurostat through the methodology "Economy-Wide Material Flows Accounts"
Methodology12
A HIGH-LEVEL VIEW OF THE WASTE ESTIMATION MODEL
ImportRAW
MATERIALS
WASTE
SPINNING
IMPORTOF YARNS
YARNS
WEAVING
WASTE
IMPORTOF
FABRICS
FABRICS
EXPORT EXPORT
WASTEDEADSTOCK
SOVERPROD.
GARMENTS MAKING GARMENTS
System boundaries
Inflows
Outflows
Waste Ratio
Waste Ratio
Waste Ratio
Waste Ratio
Outflows
MATERIAL FLOWS ANALYSIS
Source: Blumine and Reverse Resources
Methodology13
However, as part of this waste mapping study, we are considering the best management of waste already generated. When the waste is already generated, the most preferred option is re-use, followed by recycling (upcycling or downcycling).
Another dimension of the waste hierarchy adopted in the study is THE economic potential. An assessment of the higher or lower value of the fibres produced with the recyclable waste has been implemented.
(*) see, for example, Directive 2008/98/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council or the waste management hierarchy of the United States Environmental Protection Agency.
ASSESSING THE USES OF TEXTILE WASTE: THE WASTE HIERARCHY
PREVENTION
RE-UTILISATION
RECYCLING / UPCYCLING /
DOWNCYCLING
RECUPERATION D’ENERGIE
MISE EN DECHARGE
USA
GES
C
ON
SID
ERÉS
D
ANS
LA
C
ARTO
GR
APH
IE
The concept of waste hierarchy indicates an order of preference for actions aimed at reducing and managing waste and at maximizing the practical benefits - ecologically and economically - of products.Waste prevention is the preferred option for waste hierarchy models adopted around the world (*).
Methodology14
The top level of the waste hierarchy is reuse and includes dead stocks and overproduction ofclothing.The second level is recycling which, in turn, can be divided into two components:o higher-value recycling: textile to textile recycling with different technologies, candidate for
the closed-loop project by brands.o lower-value recycling: candidate for downcycling in upholstery and mattresses or industrial
symbiosis projects that target sectors such as nonwovens, automotive, furniture,construction and others
WASTE
Reusable waste Recyclable waste
Recyclable waste with lower value
Recyclable waste with higher value
OverproductionDeadstocks
Source: Blumine and Reverse Resources
15
Waste mapping in Morocco2.
The T&C Industry in Morocco
16
The textile and clothing sector is the largest industrial employer in Morocco, with more than 160,000 employees, representing 26% of industrial jobs.In 2016, the annual turnover of the sector was DH 24 billion, or 6% of the total turnover of the country's industry.It also accounts for 24% of Moroccan merchandise exports.(source: Haut Commissariat au Plan, Annuaire Statistique du Maroc, 2019)
Textile and clothing industry
6%
All other industries94%
Textile and clothing industry
26%
All other industries74%
EMPLOYMENT
161thous.
TURNOVER AND EMPLOYMENT IN THE T&C INDUSTRY 2016
Source: Haut Commissariat au Plan
TURNOVER24 bln DH
THE MOROCCAN T&C INDUSTRY
More than 1,100 companies produce a billion garments a year, more than half of them as brandsubcontractors. (source: AMITH)
16
The T&C Industry in Morocco
The T&C industry in Morocco is highly concentrated at regional level. No updated statistics on the regional distribution of the T&C industry are available. Based on the data available for the most recent years (2014 and 2016), it can be estimated that between 70% and 80% of the entire Moroccan T&C industry is concentrated in two regions, Tangier and Casablanca. Most of the remaining 20%-30% are in the regions of Rabat-Salé and Fez-Meknes
KEY REGIONS OF THE T&C INDUSTRY IN MOROCCO
Source: Blumine and Reverse Resources
17
The T&C Industry in Morocco18
With an export value of 3.3 billion euros in 2019, or 12.5% of the country's total exports, the textile and clothing (T&C) industry is one of the main export sectors in Morocco.Clothing is by far the largest component of the T&C industry's exports with a value in 2019 of €2.9 billion, or 88% of the total.Among garments, half of exports are women's clothing (not-knitted), 15% men's clothing (not-knitted) and 22% knitwear.
EXPORTS
Textile and clothing12,5%
All other goods87,5%
TOTALEXPORTS€ 26,1 bln
T&C SHARE
Garments88,4%
Textiles11,6%
T.& H.EXPORTS€ 3,3 bln
T&C EXPORT COMPOSITION
Women's non Knit50%
Men's non knit15%
Knitwear22%
Workwear & oth. on knit.5%
Oth.clothing and accessories8%
EXPORT D’HABILLEMEN
T€ 2,9 bln
GARMENTS EXPORTS COMPOSITION
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources calc. on UN Comtrade database
The T&C Industry in Morocco19
517Ktons of textile materials imported into the country:o 376Ktons of yarn and fabric
which have been transformed into other textile and clothing materials
o 83Ktons of yarns and technical fabrics used in the manufacture of industrial products and floor coverings
o 16Ktons of made-up articles and household textiles
o 43Ktons of clothing157Ktons of textile and clothing materials exported from the country Yarns and fabrics
73%
Technical textiles & floor coverings
16%
Made-up articles and home textiles
3% Garments8%
IMPORTS517 Ktons
Yarns and fabrics
8%
Technical textiles & floor
coverings2%
Made-up articles and
home textiles10%
Garments80%
EXPORTS157
Ktons
TRADE IN TEXTILES AND CLOTHING. 2019Ktons= thousands of tons
TRADE BALANCE (physical volumes)From the point of view of available resources, physical imports represent a contribution of materials to thelocal economy and physical exports a production of materials that cannot be used in the local economy.In order to calculate the material flows within the Moroccan textile industry, the physical volume of textileimports and exports in 2019 was taken into account, which amounted to:
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources calc. on UN Comtrade database
Material Flow Analysis20
Source: Blumine and Reverse Resources calculations
TEXTILE MATERIAL FLOWS IN THE MOROCCAN TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY – 2019
Tons
Material Flow Analysis21
YARNS
FABRICS
FIBRES
GARMENTS
47.3ktons of textile fibers were imported into Morocco in 2019.
42.3Ktons of fibre were spun by the domestic spinning sector, in addition to 126.5Ktons of imported yarn. 5Ktons of yarn were exported, 16.4Ktonnes made up for retail sale and 16.4Ktons for non-clothing end-uses. The remaining 131ktons are available for the domestic weaving or knitting industry.
121.3Ktons of woven or knitted fabrics were manufactured, in addition to 240.8Ktons of imported woven or knitted fabrics. 8.1Ktons are for export and 9.1Ktons for retail sale. The remaining 344.9Ktonnes of fabrics available for the manufacture of clothing and home textiles
293.2Ktons of clothing, were made from available knitted or woven materials, of which 16.7Ktons remained in the warehouses as dead stock or overproduction. 51.6Ktons are cutting waste
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources calc. sur base de donnés UNComtrade
TEXTILE MATERIAL FLOWS IN THE MOROCCAN TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY – 2019
Ktons = thousands of tonnes
Generation of textile waste22
100% Cotton14%
Cotton rich blends42%Other Natural fibres
5%
100% Polyester10%
Poly-rich blends17%
Other Synthetics
6%
Manmade cellulosics(*)
6%
TOTAL83,2 ktons
Ktons= thousands of tons
(*) viscose, lyocell, cupro, acetate
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resource estimates
About 1/4 of the waste consists of pure fibers: pure cotton, pure synthetic other pure fibers. Almost half of the total, however, are cotton blends that can be more difficult to value.
BY FIBRE
Generation of textile waste23
Spinning waste
6%
Fabric Mill waste (knit)4%
Fabric Mill waste (non-knit)
8%
Cutting waste62%
Overproduction14%
Garments deadstock & 2nd quality
6%
TOTAL83,2 ktons
More than 60% of the total textile waste generated by textile processes is cutting waste.Given the availability of knitted and non-knit fabrics in the supply chain, we can estimate that non- knit cutting waste is about 31Ktons per year and knitting cutting waste is about 21Ktons.A significant proportion of spinning waste (which
accounts for 6% of total textile waste) is already reused in both textile and non-textile processes. At the other end of the spectrum, an interesting 20% of total waste is made up of finished products, whether deadstock or overproduction.
BY PROCESSKtons= thousands of tonnes
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimate
Generation of Textile Waste24
In clothing activities, each year are generated:
51.6Ktons of cutting waste 11.9Ktons of overproduction4.8Ktons the deadstocks
VOLUME OF WASTE BY SUB-SECTOR
SPINNINGWASTE
WEAVING / KNITTINGWASTE
CUTTINGWASTE
5,0Ktons
9,8Ktons
51,6Ktons
WASTE
OVERPRODUCTION DEADSTOCKS
11,9Ktons
4,8Ktons
WASTE
PRODUCTION
Ktons= thousands of tonnes
WASTE WASTE
WASTEWASTE
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
The geography of textile waste25
Grand Casablanca
42%
Tanger35%
Fes-Meknes-Taza14%
Rabat-Salé7%
Marrakech-Agadir2%
Orientale0,4%
TOTAL83,2 Ktons
DISTRIBUTION PAR REGIONKtons= thousands tons
Transport and logistics costs can account for up to 30-40% of the cost of recycling.Proximity to recycling facilities is therefore a key factor in the development of a recycling value chain.More than 75% of textile waste in Morocco is generated in just two regions: Greater Casablanca andTangier.
source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
The geography of textile waste26
The higher specialization in the Denim sub-sector– with heavier fabrics per m². – compared to thehigher Tangier specialization in knitting – givesCasablanca an advantage in terms of the physicalamount of waste.
In the Casablanca region, more than 7,000 tons ofdenim waste are generated each year, whichrepresents nearly 80% of all denim waste inMorocco.
In the third row is the region of Fez-Meknes.
The 3 regions account for more than 90% of thecountry's textile waste production.Tangier
GEOGRAPHY AND WASTE LOGISTICS
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
The geography of textile waste27
In the Tangier Region, about 30Ktons of textile waste production per year are located over a maximum distance of 100Km, with a high concentration in three restricted places: Tangier, Tetouan and Larache.
Similarly, in the Greater Casablanca Region, about 35Ktons of textile waste production per year are located within a radius of 50 Km, around Casablanca.
Cartes simplifiées couvrant un échantillon de 300 établissements dans le paysSource: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
Tanger-Tétouan-Al HoceïmaGrand Casablanca
The geographically concentrated structure of the Moroccan T&H industry is an asset to reduce waste transport costs.
TANGERGood practices exists in the region, in terms of textile-to-fashion recycling and non-woven recycling, with the presence of leaders in the field.The separation of waste in the factory can be improved.There is the need to create a real waste market by generalising these practices and involving weaving factories.
The geography of textile waste
RABAT – FES - MEKNESThe management of textile waste has become a real problem for local businesses. There is little storage capacity and little opportunity for recycling.The traditional carpet industry used to be a destination for textile waste but has now almost disappeared.
GRAND CASABLANCAThe industry is mainly composed of small businesses and old infrastructure, with a strong informal sector of management, and reuse of textile waste. The presence of felt and wadding producers and of pet into polyester fiber recyclers are a potential for the region.
28
Simulation of shredding potential by region29
What is the potential economic impact of developing a recycling value chain?
If we consider only the higher value textile waste available in the Casablanca region (100% cotton and cotton-rich waste) which accounts for about half of the total textile waste created in the region, there is about 22Ktons of waste per year.
Considering a segregation rate of 80% and a shredding facility capacity utilization of 75%, there is potential room for 8 shredding lines with modern and state-of-art technology: 7 operating at 75% capacity utilization, and one at 58%.
Scenario
ü 80% of waste is sorted and recycledü Modern shredding line with a capacity of
250 t/month (600-2,500 kg/h x 8hours/day and 20 days/month)
ü Maximum capacity utilization of 75%.
source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
GRAND CASABLANCA
SIMULATION 100% COTTON + COTTON-RICH
75%
58%
75%
75% 75% 75%
75% 75%
Simulation of shredding potential by region30
TANGER
Considering only the higher value textile waste available in the Tangier region (100% cotton and cotton-rich waste) which accounts for about half of the total textile waste created in the region, there is about 18Kt of waste per year.
Considering a segregation rate of 80% and a shredding facility capacity utilization of 75%, there is potential room for 7 shredding lines with modern and state-of-the-art technology: 6 operating at 75% capacity utilization and one at 40% capacity.
Scenario
ü 80% of waste is sorted and recycledü Modern shredding line with a capacity of
250 t/month (600-2,500 kg/h x 8hours/day and 20 days/month)
ü Maximum capacity utilization of 75%.
source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
SIMULATION100% COTTON + COTTON-RICH
75%
75%75%
75% 75%
75%
40%
Simulation of shredding potential by region31
RABAT – FES - MEKNES
Considering only the higher value textile waste available in the Rabat, Fès et Meknès (100% cotton and cotton-rich waste) which accounts for about half of the total textile waste created in the region, there is about 7,2Kt of waste per year.
Considering a segregation rate of 80% and a shredding facility capacity utilization of 75%, there is potential room for 4 shredding lines with modern and state-of-the-art technology: 3 operating at 75% capacity utilization, 1 to 60%
Scenario
ü 80% of waste is sorted and recycledü Modern shredding line with a capacity of
250 t/month (600-2,500 kg/h x 8hours/day and 20 days/month)
ü Maximum capacity utilization of 75%.
75% 75% 75%
60%
SIMULATION100% COTTON + COTTON-RICH
Waste hierarchy in Morocco Survey estimates32
WASTE83,2 Ktons
Re-usable waste 16,7 Ktons
Recyclable Waste66,5 Ktons
Lower value:39,9 Ktons
Higher value26,6 Ktons
Overproduction11,9 Ktons
Deadstock4,8 Ktons
➔Stored and reused for a future collection.
➔Returned to the contractor's brand (if applicable).
➔Sold on the open market.➔Sold to a merchant.➔Cut into small pieces and
managed as a cutting waste.
➔Stored for about 2 years and then sold at the point of sale or on the local market.
➔Shredded and managed as shredded textile waste.
➔Re-manufacturing (reuse of elements directly in production).
➔Chemical recycling of fiber to fiber (high added value).
➔Mechanical recycling of fiber to fiber (lower value).
➔Downcycling (mechanical recycling with low added value)
➔Industrial symbiosis➔Incineration with energy
recovery➔Incineration without energy
recovery➔discharge
Ktons= thousands tons
Ø We separate textile waste from production into 2 main categories: reusable waste (surplus production, find of rolls ...) and recyclable waste (cutting scrap, filaments ...).
Ø The latter category is itself separated into two types of high and low value waste according to their composition and demand on the current market.
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
Ktons= thousands tons
Waste hierarchy in Morocco Potential scenarios33
Reusable waste 16,7 Ktons
Recyclable Waste:66,5 Ktons
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
Some cases and good practices exist in the country that demonstrate the use case of a circular textile economy. However, information on current recycling capacity at the country level is scarce or non-existent and official data on recycling capacity and the technologies used are not available.
In addition, we could not find an official list of authorized collectors and recyclers who specialize in or can work with textile waste. Indeed, the authorization and the legal framework for waste management are still to be developed in the country and constitute a key element of the "National Strategy for waste reduction and recovery" (SNRVD) published by the Minister of Energy, Mining and Sustainable Development in 2019(*).
(*) Axe stratégique 1: Renforcement du cadre législative et réglementaire relatif à la réduction valorisation des déchets-Action 4 : Mettre en place un système d’autorisation des entreprises œuvrant dans le recyclage et la valorisation des déchets.
The textile waste market34
Some indices may come from the size of the recycling capacity of higher value fibresfor textile-to-textile recycling, based on trade data.
According to official export data, textile waste exports were 2.3 Ktons in 2019, mainly synthetic fibres.
The trade classification does not distinguish between “shredded" and "non-shredded" wastes. Nevertheless, this data provides an upper limit for an estimate of domestic recycling capacity.
Another interesting measure is the volume of rags exported. In fact, rags can be the result of a low-value recycling process. By limiting the analysis to exports to Europe, we found 2.7Ktons of exports, which, when added to fibre exports, brings the upper limit for estimating the volume of waste transported for export to 3.3Ktons.
The textile waste market
source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
35
The textile waste markets
FELT, WADDING AND TECHNICAL TEXTILES
The Moroccan textile industry includes leading companies in technical textiles, wadding and non-wovens. The market for this class of products can range from high to low end, from natural fibers to technological fibers, high and low-tech processes, fashion clothing, bedding, furniture, workwear, automotive and other industrial uses.Analysis of trade data shows a domestic supply potential for this product class, which has not yet been fully developed: the volume of exports is still limited and the trade balance is negative to a significant extent.
3.005
25.273
685
Felt Nonwovens Wadding
IMPORTS
9
1.576
125
Felt Nonwovens Wadding
EXPORTS
-2.997
-23.697
-560
Felt Nonwovens WaddingTRADE BALANCE
tons 2019Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources Calc. on UN Comtrade
36
Summary of the analysis37
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources
STRENGTHSo Large CMT/ clothing
manufacturerso International brands
want to manage waste responsibly and increase recycled fibers in collections.
WEAKNESSES
o No waste segregation or sorting in most enterprises
o Low knowledge of waste management laws and regulations
STRENGTHSo A potentially favorable
logistics since about 90% of the waste is concentrated in 3 neighboring regions.
WEAKNESSES
o Weak legal framework that needs to be updated
o Widespread informalwaste collection sector
o Waste delivered "in bulk" by manufacturers
STRENGTHSo Good practices and
use cases exist in the country, both for textile textiles and non-woven textiles.
WEAKNESSESo Low recycling capacityo High-quality waste is
mainly exported without shredding.
o Need to diversify raw materials in the recycling into nonwovens
RecyclingWaste managementTextile factory End-use
STRENGTHSo Good practices and
use cases exist in the country, both for textile textiles and non-woven textiles.
o Large market and local production capacity for nonwovens and technical textiles.
o
WEAKNESSES
o Limited spinning capacity for higher value recycled waste.
o Low know-how of local companies in spinning recycled fibres.
Conclusions
A BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT POTENTIALFOR MOROCCO The Moroccan textile and clothing industry has the
assets to become a leader in textile circularity.
Proximity to Europe makes it an ideal candidate to provide quality textile waste to recyclers.
Achieving a successful development needs an increase in the cooperation level among industry players, local authorities, leading brands and technology leaders.Morocco can also attract investors to install these recycling technologies on its territory, through a more organized management of textile waste oriented towards a circular strategy.
38
Waste mapping in Tunisia
3.
The T&C Industry in Tunisia
40
There are more than 3.000 companies in the Tunisian T&C industry. Enterprises with 10 or more employees numbered 1,860 (source : Statistiques Tunisie)T&C is the largest industrial employer in the country, with a total of 159.000 jobs or 31% of the total manufacturing industries. (source : APII, 2018)
Industrie Textile-Habillement
31%
Toutes les autres industries…
Industrie Textile-Habillement
32%
Toutes les autres industries…
EMPLOMENT161 thous.
REVENUE AND EMPLOYMENT IN THE TUNISIAN T&C INDUSTRY
source: INS Tunisie
COMPANIES>10 empl.N. 1.860
More than 80% of enterprises produce entirely for the export market ("total exporters").In 2016, the annual income of the sector was DT 5.4 billion, with a value added of DT 2.1 billion, or 16% of the value added of manufacturing industry. (source : APII, 2018)It also accounts for 18% of all Tunisian exports of goods. (source: UN Comtrade, 2019)
40
The T&C Industry in Tunisia
41
With an export value of 2.6 billion euros in 2019, equal to 17.6% of the country's total exports, the textile and clothing (T&C) industry is one of the main export sectors in Tunisia. Clothing is by far the largest component of the industry's exports with a value in 2019 of 2 billion euros, equal to 86% of the total.Among garments, 13% of exports are women's clothing (non-kint), 26% for men's clothing (non-knit) and 21% for knitwear, a further 23% includes workwear and other non-knitted clothing.
Exports
Textile and clothing17,6%
All other goods82,4%
EXPORTTOTAL
€ 13,3 bln
EXPORTTOTAL
€ 13,3 Mld
T&C SHARE
Garments86,5%
Textiles13,5%
EXPORT T-H
€ 2,3 Mld
T&C EXPORT COMPOSITION
Women's non Knit13%
Men's non knit26%
Knitwear21%
Workwear & oth non knit
23%
Oth.clothing and accessories
17%
EXPORTVÊTEMENTS
€ 2,0 Mld
GARMENTS EXPORTS COMPOSITION
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources calc. on UNComtrade database
41
Yarns and fabrics69%
Technical textiles & floor coverings
18%
Made-up articles & home textiles
4%
Garments9%
IMPORTS207
Ktons
Yarns and fabrics15%
Technical textiles & floor
coverings3%
Made-up articles &
home textiles17%
Garments65%
EXPORTS
109Ktons
Ktons= thousands tons
42
TRADE BALANCE (physical volumes)
The T&C Industry in Tunisia
TRADE IN T&C INDUSTRYKtons= thousands of tons
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources calc. on UN Comtrade database
207Ktons of textile products wereimported into the country:
o 143Ktons of yarn and fabric whichhave been transformed into othertextile and clothing materials
o 37Ktons of yarn and technicalfabrics used in the manufacture ofindustrial products and floorcoverings
o 9Ktons of made-up articles andhousehold textiles
o 19Ktons of clothing
109Ktons of textile and clothingmaterials were exported from thecountry
43
Tons
TEXTILE FLOWS IN THE TUNISIAN TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY
Material Flow Analysis
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
Material Flow Analysis44
YARNS
FABRICS
FIBRES
GARMENTS
19.9Ktons tons of textile fibers were imported into Tunisia in 2019.
17.8K tones were spun by the domestic spinning sector, which was added to 42.2Ktons of imported yarn. Of the total yarn available, 4.9ktons were exported, 11ktons were made up for retail sale or were used for uses other than clothing. The remaining 44 Ktons were available for further processing in the domestic weaving or knitting industry.
40.7Ktons of fabrics or knitwear were made from the available yarns, which was added to 105.6Ktons of imported fabrics or knitwear. Of the total available fabrics, 16.9 Ktons were retailed or exported. The remaining 129Ktons of fabrics were available for the manufacture of clothing and home textiles.
101.2Ktons of clothing were made from available knitted or woven materials, of which 6.2Ktons remained in warehouses as dead stock or overproduction. 19.4Ktons are cutting waste.
TEXTILE MATERIAL FLOWS IN THE TUNISIAN TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY – 2019
Ktons = thousands of tonnes
source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
Generation of textile waste in Tunisia45
It can be estimated that about 1/4 of the waste is made up of pure fibres: pure cotton, pure synthetic other pure fibres. Nearly 40% of the total, however, are cotton blends that can be more difficult to value.
Ktons= thousands tons
(*) viscose, lyocell, cupro,
source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
100% Coton18%
Mélanges riches en coton
38%Autres fibres
naturelles6%
100% Polyester
7%
Mélanges riches en polyester
16%
Autres synthétiques
7%
Viscose et autres (*)
8%
TOTAL31 ktons
WASTE BY FIBRE
Generation of textile waste in Tunisia46
Ktons= thousands tons
More than half of the total textile waste generated by textile processes is cutting waste. It can be estimated that non-knit cutting waste represents about 14.000 tons per year and knit cutting waste about 5.400 tons.
Déchets de filature8%
Déchets des usines de tissu (maille)
4%
Déchets des usines de
tissu (autres)9%
Dechet de coupe55%
Surproduction de vêtements
17%
Stock mort de vêtements7%
TOTAL31 ktons
WASTE BY PROCESS
source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
Generation of textile waste47
In the garment-making sub-sector, each year are generated:
o 19.4Ktons of cutting wasteo 4.5Ktons of garments’
overproductiono 1,8Ktons of deadstocks
SPINNINGWASTE
WEAVING / KNITTINGWASTE
CUTTINGWASTE
2,0Ktons
3,3Ktons
19,4Ktons
OVERPRODUCTION
DEADSTOCKS
4,5Ktons
1,8Ktons
source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
VOLUME OF WASTE BY SUB-SECTORKtons= thousands of tonnes
WASTE WASTE WASTE
WASTE WASTE
PRODUCTION
WASTE
Geography of textile waste in Tunisia
Monastir27%
Nabeul16%
Bizerte13%
Sousse9%
Sfax7%
Mahdia5,3%
Ben Arous5%
Manouaba4%
Tunis4%
Others10%
TOTAL31 Ktons
BY REGION
NORTH-EAST REGIONCENTER-EAST REGION
source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
48
The value chain of textile recycling in Tunisia49
What is the potential economic impact of the development of a recycling value chain in the two macro regions of NORTH-EAST and CENTRE-EAST?
Information on the current size of the existing recycling capacity in the country is difficult to assess accurately.
An official list of approved collectors and recyclers of textile waste is maintained by theANGED (National Agency for Waste Management). The list was used to organizemeetings with recyclers to gather qualitative information.On the other hand, the authorization list provides little help in the assessment ofrecycling capacity, as the capacity for collection, transport and simple cutting mergeswith the capacity for recycling. In addition, it includes companies that collect all types ofwaste, including but limited to textile waste.
The market for textile waste
o a single company with the know-how and theability to carry out shredding for textile-textilerecycling
o about 4 to 5 companies with the know-howand capacity to perform shredding for therecycling of non-woven textile
o a few other companies that can reduce wasteand/or manufacture rags, mops and wipeswithout shredding
Gross estimate of recycling capacity by end-use
Higher quality, textile to textile shredding & recycling.
Recycling (cutting or shredding) For non-wovens, mattresses, carpets wadding
Rags, floor-clothes and wipes with no shredding
By combining various sources of information,including ANGED, API and face-to-faceinterviews, we found that:
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources
50
Simulation of shredding potential by region51
SIMULATION100% COTTON + COTTON-RICH
75% 75% 60%
NORT-EAST REGION
If we consider only the higher value textile waste available in the North-East region (100% cotton and cotton-rich waste) which accounts for about half of the total textile waste created in the region, there is about 8Ktons of waste per year.Considering a segregation rate of 80% and a shredding facility capacity utilization of 75%, there is potential room for 3 shredding lines with modern and state-of-art technology, 2 operating at 75% capacity utilization, one at 60%
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
Scenario
ü 80% of waste is sorted and recycledü Modern shredding line with a capacity of 250
t/month (600-2,500 kg/h x 8 hours/day and 20days/month)
ü Maximum capacity utilization of 75%.
Simulation of shredding potential by region52
SIMULATION100% COTTON + COTTON-RICH
75% 75% 75%
CENTER-EAST REGION
If we consider only the higher value textile waste available in the Center-East region (100% cotton and cotton-rich waste) which accounts for la moitié du total des déchets textiles créés dans la région, il y a environ 8,4Ktons de déchets par an.Considering a segregation rate of 80% and a shredding facility capacity utilization of 75%, there is potential room for 3 shredding lines with modern and state-of-art technology, operating at 75% capacity utilization.
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
Scenario
ü 80% of waste is sorted and recycled
ü Modern shredding line with a capacity of 250t/month (600-2,500 kg/h x 8 hours/day and 20days/month)
ü Maximum capacity utilization of 75%.
Waste hierarchy in Tunisia Survey estimates53
Total wasteKtons 31,1
Re-usable wasteKtons 6,3
Recyclable Waste Ktons 24,8
Lower value:Ktons 15,0
Higher -Value :Ktons 9,8
Overproduction:Ktons 4,5
Dead stock:Ktons 1,8
➔Stored and reused for a new collection.
➔Returned to the mark➔Sold on the open market.➔Sold to a trader.➔Cut into pieces and
managed as cutting waste.
➔Stored for approx. 2 years, then sold by a point of sale or on the local market.
➔Shredded and managed as textile waste.
➔Refabrication➔Chemical recycling of
higher-value fiber fiber.➔Mechanical recycling of
fibers into lower-value fibers.
➔Downcycling Industrial Symbiosis
➔Incineration with energy recovery
➔Incineration without energy recovery
➔Landfilling
Ktons= thousands of tons
Ø We separate textile waste from production into 2 main categories: re-usable waste (surplus production, end of rolls ...) and recyclable waste (cutting scrap, filaments ...).
Ø The latter category is itself separated into two types of high and low value waste according to their composition and demand on the current market
source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
Waste hierarchy in Tunisia Potential scenarios54
Re-usable waste: 6,3 Ktons
SOLD ORSTORED
67%
REUSEINTERNAL
33%
SOLD ORSTORED
50% 50%
DEADSTOCK
BEST INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS
AVERAGE INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS
OVERPRODUCTION
BEST INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS
SOLD ORSTORED
73%
RECYCLÉ2%
LANDFILLIN/INCINERATION
24%
AVERAGE INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS
SOLD ORSTORED
98%
RECYCLÉ2%
REUSEINTERNAL
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
Waste hierarchy in Tunisia Potential scenarios55
Recyclable waste: 24,8 Ktons
BEST INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS
AVERAGE INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS
INTERNALREUSE
10%
RECYCLED35%
DOWNCYCLED26%
LANDFILLING /INCINERATION
30%
INTERNALREUSE
20%
RECYCLED55%
DOWNCYCLED15%
LANDFILLING / INCINERATION
9%
HIGHER VALUE LOWER VALUERECYCLED
10%
DOWNCYCLED40%
LANDFILLING /INCINERATION
50%
AVERAGE INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS
RECYCLÉ20%
DOWNCYCLED50%
LANDFILING /INCINERATION
30%
BEST INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources estimates
Overview of textile waste destinations in Tunisia
ü The capacity to recycle high-quality fibres in clothing is limited by the spinning capacity in the country. The API database lists 6 spinning companies but only 2 with more than 100 employees
ü Synthetic fiber waste, mainly acrylic, is recycled in the carpet industry, data suggests that volumes are very small.
ü Most of the high-quality waste, 100% cotton and rich in cotton, is exported to Europe, mainly to Italy, Spain, and to Turkey, most of which is not shredded. (from 3 to 4ktons), the export classified as "recycled cotton" is minimal.
ü Textile waste is also classified as "rags", which can be the result of a recycling process with low added value (without shredding). By limiting the analysis to export to Europe – which should receive the higher value materials – Tunisia exports 4.8 Ktons, which include rags, mops and wipes, as well as cut cotton waste.
ü It can be estimated that overall exports of recycled materials do not exceed 6Ktons.
56
Overview of textile waste destinations in Tunisia
ü Analysis of import/export data shows that the domestic supply potential of this product class is not yet fully developed.
ü The volume of exports is still limited and the trade balance is negative by a significant amount. Especially in nonwovens, local production capacity is almost absent and represents a critical gap that should be filled.
2.019
15.914
571
Felt Nonwovens Wadding
-2.018
-15.095
-465
Felt Nonwovens Wadding
IMPORTTons 2019
EXPORTTons 2019
BALANCE COMMERCIALE
Tons 2019
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resources Calc. on UN Comtrade
1
819
106
Felt Nonwovens Wadding
57
A note on “FRIPERIE” (used garments) and recycling capacities
The mapping study and this report focus on post-industrial and pre-consumption waste. Post-consumer waste is outside the scope of the analysis. There is, however, a link with the “friperie” trade.The friperie is an important and controversial market in Tunisia for post-consumer waste (domestic or imported). Le Décret n° 95-2396, décembre 1995, laying down detailed rules for the import, processing and distribution of “friperie” states:
Art. 5 «Pour bénéficier du régime de l'entrepôt industriel, l'industriel doit s'équiper de matériels de coupe et d'effilochage agréés par le ministère de
l'industrie pour la transformation industrielle des articles de la friperie.»
Companies in the “friperie” market must have an internal shredding capacity – which, as an internal processing capacity, is not precisely regulated by the Specifications for waste management set by the Ministry of the Environment and ANGED.
This shredding capacity is largely underused and could become a driver for the recycling of post-industrial waste. A qualitative analysis of the current destination of materials recycled by the “friperie” sector suggests that they are mainly sold to the non-woven sector.
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Summary Tunisia
Source: Blumine & Reverse Resource
STRENGTHSo Large CMT/ clothing
manufacturerso International brands
want to manage waste responsibly and increase recycled fibers in collections.
WEAKNESSES
o No waste segregation or sorting in most enterprises
o Low knowledge of waste management laws and regulations
o In some regions, the age of factories and infrastructure limitseffective wastemanagement.
STRENGTHSo Good practices and use
cases exist in the country, both in high-quality recycling.
o WEAKNESSESo Low recycling capacity for
higher value waste
o Low recycling capacity for low-value waste
o High-quality waste is mainly exported without shredding.
o Demand for nonwovens and technical textiles met by imports
o Lack of information on the prospects of the recycled fibres market
RecyclingWaste managementTextile factory End-use
STRENGTHS o Good practices and use
cases exist in the country, both in high-quality recycling.
o International brands want to manage waste responsibly and increase recycled fibers in collections.
WEAKNESSES
o Limited spinning capacity for higher value recycled waste.
STRENGTHSo A potentially favorable
logistics since about 90% of the waste is concentrated in 3 neighboring regions.
o Structured legal framework for waste management
WEAKNESSES
o The legal framework needs to be updated to support circular business models
o Widespread informalwaste collection
Waste delivered "in bulk" by manufacturers and often collected by non-specialized companies
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Conclusions
A BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT POTENTIAL FOR TUNISIA The Tunisian textile and clothing industry has the
assets to become a leader in textile circularity.
Proximity to Europe makes it an ideal candidate to provide quality textile waste to recyclers.
Achieving a successful development needs an increase in the cooperation level among industry players, local authorities, leading brands and technology leaders.Tunisia can also attract investors to install these recycling technologies on its territory, through a more organized management of textile waste oriented towards a circular strategy..
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