MİTHAT ÖZTEKİN ELECT. ELECTR ENG. COTTON EXPERT ( MS )
Welcome to the World of FANCY YARN by AMSLER TEX
Fancy YarnSingle 2 Component
3ComPo
nent
• Fancy yarn is related to people's imagination and offers a wide variety.
• Spiral Yarn
• Tuberous Yarn
• Gimp Yarn
• Ratine iplikler
• Buklet Yarn
• Loop yarn
• Twisted Yarn
• Nope Yarn
* In the form of the yarn, the color, brightness, raw materials quality etc., showing the characteristics feature, that the aesthetics of a particular fabric with fabric finish are called Fancy yarn
• Flok Yarn• Jaspe iplikler
• Melange Yarn
Muline Yarn• Vigure Yarn
Eksantrik Yarn• Frize Yarn
• Metalic Yarn
Knitting yarn• Core Yarn• Cyro Yarn • injection Yarn
• Slub Yarn
• Short slub Yarn
Multi Count Yarn• Multi Twist Yarn
Gipe Yarn
• Chenille Yarn
• Negative Slub Yarn
WHAT IS FANCY YARN ?
• Dual Core Yarn
• Rigit Yarn
Slub
• A single layer structure of the flat yarn is created with Program control by changes in thickness and length, ‘’Slub – Flamme Yarn’’ is called.
WHAT IS SLUB YARN ?
AMSLER Fancy Yarn Devices
SDE – Ground Slub System MC – Multi Count Yarn System
MT/ TC – Multi Twist Yarn System CORE XXX – Core Yarn System
XSS – Extreme Short Slub
E_Profi – Slub and Fabric Simulation Program
HPC – High performance coolingOE System
3C – Injection System
T 400 Fiber Cyro Yarn
…….We have a solution for Fancy Yarn Productions.
NULU – New Look OE Yarn mDraft – Multi Drfat CORE system
THE WORKING PRINCIBLE OF THE SYSTEM AIM OF THE SYSTEM IS TO CONTROL THE SPEEDS OF DRAFT AND TWIST ROLLERSIT MEANS THAT, THE SPEED OF DRAFT AND TWIST ROLLERS ARE INCREASED BY EXTRA AMSLER MOTORS (BACK, MIDDLE, FRONT ROLLERS )SO THAT, THERE IS A MECHANICAL MODIFICATION ON MACHINE.THE MACHINE HAS DRIVED WITH 2 SIDE ( HEAD – SUCTION ) FOR DRAFT IF THE RING SPINING MACHINE IS LONG , THE MACHINE HAS 3 DRIVE ( HEAD,MIDDLE,SYN.)
FOR O.E MACHINE, THE SPEED OF FEEDING ROLLERS ARE CONTROLLED BY EXTRA AMSLER MOTORS
DRIVE OF TWIST AND DRAFT BY MOTORS
DRIVE OF FEEDING ROLLERS BY MOTOR
Working principle for ground slubs on ring spin frame
Drafting system
Feedrollers
Motor/gearing-diagram
Motor
Motor
Motor
Spindles
MotorFeed rollers
* Speed of Rollers are controlled by Motor (Accelerated )
* Drive The Twist and Draft with additional Gearbox
Front Roller
Working principle for ground slubs on open-end
* Feed Rollers are controlled by Motor (Accelerated )
Feed Roller
STG Control Box
TYPES OF YARN WHICH KIND OF FANCY YARN CAN WE PRODUCE WITH AMSLER DEVICE ?• GROUND SLUB YARN ( GF ) • MULTI COUNT YARN ( MC) • MUTI TWIST YARN ( TC )• EXTREME SHORT SLUB YARN (XS-S) • NEGATIVE SLUB
Basic information on AMSLER SDE - MC – TC System
• Long slub is not a MC yarn type • Twist characteristic is different on
thick place which is called slub when comparing with Normal yarn ( base yarn )
• ideal base and thick length of MC,TC yarn should be min. 200 cm. due to variable twist
• MC and TC yarn have variable twist on the yarn.
GF / GROUND FLAMME – GS / BASIC SLUB
GROUND FLAMME and BASIC SLUB are SAME MEANING. BASİC SLUB YARN ; * Min. SLUB LENGTH SHOULD BE FİBER LENGTH ( For Example ; 3 cm for Cotton ) * Max. SLUB LENGTH SHOULD BE EQUAL TO TWIST ZONE ( Depend on slub Thickness ) * TWIST IS CONSTANT ON THE YARN * 180 SLUB / MIN IS POSSIBLE ON THE SYSTEM * Max.THICKNESS IS 4.8 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS ( FD Table )RING FRAME ; MINIMUN SLUB LENGTH = FIBER LENGTH + % 10 FIBER LENGTH O.E. SPINING ; MINIMUN SLUB LENGTH = ROTOR DIAMETER
Various SLUB
Slub Thickness are look like ladder ( increasing and decreasing step by step )
Slub Thickness and Slub Legth are constant
Slub Thickness is Constant Slub Length is variable
MC / MULTI COUNT
MULTI COUNT YARN ; * YARN COUNT ( Ne ) AND TWIST ARE VARIABLE ON THE YARN * DRAFT AND TWIST SYSTEM ARE CONTROLED BY AMSLER MOTORS.* MİNUMUM THICKNESS LENGTH = LEGTH OF THE TWIST ZONE. * Max. THICKNESS IS 2.2 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS
TC / MULTI TWIST
MULTI TWIST YARN ; * YARN COUNT ( Ne ) IS CONSTANT AND TWIST IS VARIABLE THE YARN * DRAFT AND TWIST SYSTEM ARE CONTROLED BY AMSLER MOTORS. * * MİNUMUM THICKNESS LENGTH = LEGTH OF THE TWIST ZONE. * Max. THICKNESS IS 1.5 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS
SLUB YARN DESIGN 1 - FROM YARN SAMPLE
* Using USTER Mass Diagram
* To Measure ( Slub Length and thickness )
* To Weigth ( Cut Slub Length and Cut Normal Yarn length )
2 - FROM FABRIC SAMPLE
3 - ON THE PHONE ( Min. – Max. Values, Thickness etc. )
4 - FROM CODE ( Amsler EP code or Other slub system code )
3-methodes of effect yarn programming, resulting in fixed chart
Fabric copy
Programm code chart: EPX
Yarn scanning
PC created codes from WinPK II
Transformation of the full effect yarn in digital data for length, thickness and distances between effects for a defined pattern,called programm REPORT. No un-defined randomizer.
Development
100% repeating REPORT
Codes created by AMSLER Yarn scanner
1 or 2 3or
Up to 4000 fix codes, each access-able
30 0 7 890 015 5
==>
AMSLER Principle of programming
Codes created byscanning of single yarn
DECIMAL CODE / Normal Slub BASE YARN LEGTH , SLUB LENGTH , SLUB THICKNESS DESIGNATE ON THE SAMPLE YARN.EFFECT PROGRAM CODE IS TWO DIGIT.
X X
LENGTH ( SE ) OR (CH1)
THICKNESS ( FD ) OR (CH2)
Z1 Z2
Z0
X1 X2 X3
Y1 Y2
X1,X2,X3,...........= BASE YARN LEGTHY1,Y2,Y3,...........= SLUB LEGTH Z0........................= BASE YARN THICKNESS and IT IS CODE ‘’ 0 ‘’ IN THE PROGRAM Z1,Z2,..................= SLUB THICKNESS
ADRES LENGTH THICKNESS 0 X1 Z0 1 Y1 Z1 2 X2 Z0 3 Y2 Z2 4 X3 Z0
. . . .
SLUB Yarn Measurement from USTER Mass Diagram
Slub Length SLUB Thickness
Base Yarn Length
SLUB Thickness
Slub Length Slub Length
Base Yarn Length
5
EXAMPLE : CH1 Slub program Code
45
3
20 13 21
Lenght Thickness 3
4
NEGATIVE SLUB
Normal Slub and Negative Slub explanations
Negative Slub
Normal Slub
Negative Slub Yarn Board and Fabric
Prior to the actual production, we are able to project on a computer screen the virtual reality fabric:
“THE MAGIC WORLD OF FANCY YARN”
E-Profi system = key to the future !
AMSLER TEX E-PROFI system
SLUB Analyse
SLUB Clasification
Hardware
Software
FABRIC PREVIEWQUALITY
DEVELOPMENT LIGHT
SCANNER
OPEN ENDiplik efekti
RINGiplik efekti
LİKRA iplik
donanımları
WinPK® II sistem donanımı
Effect-PROFI scanner sitemi
AMSLER Effect-PROFI SystemWİNPK PROGRAM HAS 4 MODULES ;1- LIGTH, 2- DEVELOPMENT, 3-QUALITY , 4- FABRIC PREVİEW QUALITY MODULE IS INCLUDING YARN SCANNER.COMPLETE PROGRAM IS CALLED ‘’ E_PROFI ‘’
YARN SCANNER
• AMSLER yarn scanner range is between Ne 1 ve 120 • Blue Light should be continously light before scan the yarn with Laser Scanner• Frist start and time to time , Calibration of Laser Scanner is necessary with Coloured Calibration Sticks
THERE IS TWO TYPE YARN SCANNER,
* LASER SCANNER
* FLAT SCANNER
KNITTING SIMULATION
FABRIC IMAGE AFTER CUT AND WASH FACTOR
2
9
6
2
2
6
2
WinPK_EprofiFabric Preview
Aynı efekt programın farklı renk ve Taşlama ile Yıkama görüntüleri
Design Original Fabric
Negative / Positive Slub XSS – Extreme Short
Slub Yarn Board
This is an exampleFrom Yarn to Fabric
ABOUT QUALITY AND WORK ON RSM * TWIST * TRAVELLER * CLİP * DRAFT ON RSM - Total Draft - Predraft * DELIVERY SPEED * Lab. CHECKING * USTER TEST RESULT
pre draft (usual 1.14)
main draft
total draft (minimal 20)
Roving material and twist
and roller- distance
and roller- distance
toproller Ø, condition, rubber quality, rubber hardnes (shore)
Spacer climateapron condition and quality
pre draft, main draft, total draft
DRAFTING SYSTEM
Creation of yarn twist
The most important component is the traveler
Why do we need twist in the yarn ?
YARN TWIST without fibre friction= no yarn strength
with fibre friction= yarn strength
No twist, no yarnTo make the yarn strongerHow set the twist of slub yarn ?
% 120 % 250
Av. Ne 10 ( KES 341 ) Twist T’’ 13,9 (α=4.4 ) 5,48 Turn/cm
Ne 8,2 T’’ 13,9 ( 12,6 ) 5,48 tur /cm ( 5 )
Ne 3,9 T’’ 13,9 ( 8,69 ) 5,48 tur /cm ( 3,5 )
Ne 12 T’’ 13,9 (15,2 ) 5,48 tur/cm ( 6 )
Ne 12 T’’ 13,9
Ne 12 T’’ 13,9
Cotton Mic. 4,4 Cross 874
Cross 284 Cross 284 CrossS 416 CrossS 284
* Av. Ne * Distribution Ne * Twist * The Number of Fiber Cross section
(α=4 )
(α=4.85 )
(α=4 ) (α=6 )(α=3,5 )
TRAVELLER
Wire profile
f = flat dr = half round udr = ultra (wide) half round fr = flat / round
Traveller shape
low - bowed low to medium bowed high - bowed
Only for cotton Fine cotton yarns,blends, syntheticsand SLUB YARN
for cotton, blends, (SLUB YARN)
For Core yarn with PES coreAcrylics, delicate fibers
and CORE SLUB YARN
fine cotton and compact yarns
for fine to medium
cotton yarns
for medium to coarse cotton yarns, also
blends, synthetics andSLUB YARN
For Slubyarn the traveler will be 1 to 3 numbers heavier than normal It depends on slub thickness
Front cylinder 100% stop Front cylinder 95% stop
XSS recommendation
Thin place
Basic Slub recommendation
For long slub
MC / MT recommendation200 cm 200 cm200 cm
Ladder
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Mithat ÖZTEKİNElectric-Electronic Engineer
Cotton Expert ( Ms )