COVER STORY
CASE
Russian Designer –
Champion of the Champions ! 4
DIAMONDS
MARKET VIEW
Alrosa’s Image Policy:
Myth or Reality? 8
NEWS
Alrosa Sells Polished Diamonds
1ct+ at Auction
Alrosa Becomes Auction Winner
for Development of Ruchey
Gusiny Diamond Deposit 9
GEMS & PRECIOUS
CASE
Getting to know more about
Corundum Enhancement 10
STORY
Ruby in Monarchs’ Crowns
and Ecclesiastical Liturgical
Appliances 12
MARKET VIEW
The Development of Artistic
Amber Treatment 14
RESEARCH
Identification of Synthetic
Amethysts 16
TOP-LIST
Diamond and gems cutters and
traders rating 18
Pendant “Bullfinches”
by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov –
the winner of the
International Jewellery
Design Excellence Award
(IJDE) in Hong Kong
www.ilgiz.com
COVER
TECHNOLOGY
COMPANY
Silver Becomes
More Fabricable 19
2
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DIGEST
EXPO
REPORT
There Is No Crisis
in Creative Work 40
Dialogue between Craftsmanship
and Imagination 42
Vicenza Oro First :Gene
Engineering Italian Style 44
47th Bangkok
Gem & Jewellery Fair 46
Hong Kong International
Jewellery Show 48
Vilnius – Capital of Baltic
Jewellery 50
The Much Expected
Exhibition 52
Fair Schedule 56
Calm Confidence
of SIHH 2011 58
DESIGN
TRENDS
Graffiti 62
Wild World 64
Cuff Links 65
Chocolate 66
Champagne Bubbles 68
Beyond the mind • Your Own
Fineness • Over Government’s
Head • Amber Shadow on Ural
Emeralds 70
MARKET
NEWS
2011: Any Reasonable
Decisions? 20
NEWS
News from Post-Soviet Space
Ukraine 23
COMPANY
Russian Jewelers
are Summing Up 26
NEWS
Large-Scale Strategy
Luxury from France
Armenias Jewellery Production
Drops by 27.3% 32
RETAIL
What Do They Buy in Russia? 33
Retail Chains and Wholesalers 36
COMPANY
Festivities on Board
Blagodat Frigate 38
Royal Tableware 39
3
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RING “Poppy”
4 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY 1 / M A R C H , 2 0 1 1
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Mr Fazulzyanov won for his “Bullfinches”
pendant design. The design brings
the beauty of nature to jewellery.
Bullfinches can be found year-round in Russia,
and the design pictures them in snow.
This year’s IJDE received more than
100 entries from 21 countries and regions.
All designers who have won an officially
announced jewellery design competition over
the past two years were eligible for the award.
The judging panel, made up of internation-
ally respected industry experts, weighed inno-
vativeness, craftsmanship, aesthetics, wear-
ability and function in making their decision.
The names of designers and originating
design competitions of all entries have been
excluded from the judging material to ensure
fairness during the First Judging. All entries
were scored by each judge independently and
the top eight designs receiving the highest total
scores were chosen as the Finalists to enter
the Final Judging held on 3 March 2011.
After the winners was announced the
competition pieces were on display throughout
the show.
Ilgiz Fazulzyanov was born in Tatarstan in 1968. In 1987, he
graduated from Kazan School of Arts. He majored in mak-
ing stain-glass windows and batik in Japanese and Chinese style.
Once, the young designer happened to be in a group of students sent from
Tatarstan to Tajikistan for a course of study, to Dushanbe Jewellery Factory. A couple of years later, in 1991, the young designer received an order to manufac-ture earrings, a bracelet and a ring with
a national design on it for the wife of one of the Tatar Congress participants that took place in Kazan. It was his first serious work. In the days of the Congress, he managed to make four jewellery sets. Afterwards he received an invitation from the Director of the National Cultural Centre, and shortly he acquired his first workshop. In 1994, Ilgiz Fazulzyanov presented national handicrafts of Tatarstan at the International Festival of Islamic Coun-tries in Pakistan. He exhibited a decorated Koran setting and jewellery articles such as bracelets, earrings and khasite. It was here that he received his first award. He developed his skills with the time, gained more experi-ence; he broadened the scope of his creative exploration. At present, Ilgiz Fazulzyanov can boast of participating in multiple exhibitions and festivals where he became winner, first in Moscow of the Golden Boat Moscow Jewel-lery Award 2010, and then in Hong-Kong.
aofoplpthfoininCufifirprpat triKoKobrbrrththhhienenexexbobo
* The winner of Moscow Jewellery Award Golden Boat 2010 organized by the Jewellery Review magazine, Moscow, Russia
Russian Designer – Russian Designer –
CHAMPIONCHAMPION
of the of the CHAMPIONSCHAMPIONS!!
Russian designer at first
time was named winner
of the International
Jewellery Design
Excellence Award (IJDE)
at a gala reception held
4 March in Hong Kong.
EARRINGS
“Violets”
PENDANT
“Cornfl ower”
PENDANT
“Bullfi nches”
Chairman of the HKTDC Jewellery Advisory Committee and Chief Judge Lawrence
Ma is presenting “Champion of Champions Award” to Ilgiz Fazulzyanov
Chairman of the HKTDC Jewellery Advisory Committee and Chief Judge Lawrence
Ma is presenting “Champion of Champions Award” to Ilgiz Fazulzyanov
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Award Title Designer
Champion of
ChampionsBullfi nches (Pendant) Ilgiz Fazulzyanov
(Russia)
Innovative and
Uniqueness in
Design Award
Molecular Truth (Bangle)
Kristen MALAN (South Africa)
Aesthetic Award Up and Down (Ring) Shuk Mei CHU (Hong Kong)
CraftsmanshipSensational Orientalism(Necklace & Ring Set) Eva SHIU (Hong Kong)
Distinction Award
Hanging Moon (Brooch) and Melting Snowball (Ring)
Wen CHAN (Hong Kong)
Distinction AwardFortune of Eternity (Necklace and Earring)
Regina Da Mei CHENG (Chinese Mainland)
Distinction AwardListen to the Voice of Liang Zhu (Ear Hanging)
Anne HU (Chinese Mainland)
Merit AwardSensational Orientalism(Necklace & Ring Set) Eva SHIU (Hong Kong)
Merit Award Twin Paisley (Ring) Seyed Mohammad MORTAZAVI (Iran)
Merit Award Dancer (Ring) Lok Chung Angela, NG (Hong Kong)
Merit AwardPrecious Limb Bangle (Bangle)
Emily SNADDEN (Australia)
The competition was organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC),
the Hong Kong Jewellers’ & Goldsmiths’ Association, the Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade
Manufacturers Association, the Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ Association and the
Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, China. Contestants were asked to create designs that break
conventional boundaries, while enhancing the charm and glamour of fine jewellery.
Prizes included Champion of the Champions Award, Innovative and Uniqueness in Design
Award, Craftsmanship Award, Aesthetic Award, Distinction Awards and Merit Awards.
Supporting Organisations: Jewellery Review Magazine (Russia), Central Association of the German Goldsmiths,
Silversmiths and Jewellers, Italian Jewellery Awards, Jewellery Association of Australia, Jewellery Council of South Africa,
Korean Jewellery Design Association, National Gemstone Testing Centre, Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association.
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CCCOOO
VVVEEE
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IJDE Award creates a platform to honour creative and eminent jewellery designers from
around the world, and provides an opportunity for international jewellery designers to exchange
experiences, expertise and craftmanship and to compete for the highest honour – Champion of
the Champions.
RING
“Dancer”
Lok Chung
Angela
BANGLE
“Molecular
Truth”
Kristen
MALAN
NECKLACE & RING
t“Sensational
Orientalism”
Eva SHIU
BROOCH
“Hanging
Moon”
Wen CHAN
e e
Winners of the International Jewellery Design Excellence Award
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Already today, the contest
panel of the Third International
Contest Golden Boat. Moscow
Jewellery Award 2011 have
marked several works that are
worthy to represent Russian
jewellery art at IJDE in 2013.
This is the Bukvitsa series
made by Juvelia and jewel-
lery set “The Turning Point”
by Andrey Anisin, Saint
Petersburg.
“The Turning Point has a good plasticity solution. The designers were not afraid of a technogenic design and breathed life into it thanks to the skilful use of plastic art. Introduction of black and white or cognac coloured and white diamonds into the shape, and their spreading on the surface of the pendant and earrings, as if they were divided into Yin and Yang would emphasise and strengthen the name’s philosophy and would en-liven the adornments. Like in the fairy-tale, the turning point: first, besprinkle with ‘dead water’ and then with water of life. Here is a modern Russian fairy-tale super avant-garde image!”
PENDANTS “Bukvitsa”
JUVELIA
The winner of The Recognition of
Petersburg contest
The Best Mass Collection Award
Igor LobortasJeweler, a member of the
Ukrainian Designers’ Union,
Fabergé Order Holder, Con-
test Panel Chairperson,
Golden boat. Moscow Jew-
ellery Award 2011
SET “The Turning Point”
A.Anisin
The winner of The Recognition of
Petersburg contest
Fashion Trends Award
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Golden Boat. Moscow Jewellery Award 2011 is sponsored by the companies
Yakutskiye Brillianty (Kristall Mechty)
and Krasnoselsky Yuvelirprom.
Thanks to their participation, the project
is developing.
VE
RS
TO
RY
VE
R S
TO
RY
RUSRUSRUSRUSSSSRURRUSSIASIASIASIASIASIASIASIAS NNN DN DNN DN DN IAMIAMAMAMMMAMMONDONDONDNDOO S &S &S &SS &&&&& JEWJEWJEWJEWJEWJ WWWWWELLELLELLELELLLELLLLLEELLERYERYERYERYERYRYERYEE1 /1 /1 /1 / M AM AM AM A R C HR C HR C HC HRR 2 0 10 12 0 12 0 12 0 1111
Yakutskiye Brillianty (Yakut Diamonds) Jewellery Factory – trade mark Kristall
Mechty (Crystal of Dream)
Krasnoselsky Yuvelirprom
Kristall Mechty has been leader
of the Russian jewellery market for
16 years already. The company fea-
tures jewellery that contains Yakutia
diamonds.
At the end of 2007, Kristall Mechty
entered into a partnership agree-
ment with diamond recovery holding
Nizhne-Lenskoye, and became the
first company in Russia to have the
complete production chain —
from diamond recovery to
jewellery manufacture
and sale of finished
product through their
own chain of stores.
This helps develop
a wide range of pro-
ducts intended for differ-
ent customers thus pursuing quite a
democratic pricing policy.
To admirers of luxury, Kristall
Mechty offers exclusive works of
jewellery art – designer jewellery by
high-class masters that combine an
up-to-date design and the highest
workmanship.
Except the excellent Yakutia dia-
monds, the exclusive jewellery also
contains other gemstones with
top characteristics: sapphires,
emeralds, rubies, tourma-
lines, etc.
The products by
Kristall Mechty enjoy popu-
larity with famous Russian
politicians, show business
figures and actors.
Krasnoselsky Yuvelirprom is one
of the largest Russian jewellery enter-
prises with a 90 years of history.
The masters of Krasnoye-on-the-
Volga became world famous thanks to
their preservation of the ancient craft
of filigree. At the end of the 1990s, the
factory became a leading production
site of Almaz-Holding regaining the
second wind: the production became
profitable; there appeared an opportu-
nity to develop traditional techniques
and represent the country with dignity
at international exhibitions. The phe-
nomenon of the decade was the pro-
gramme started in 2001, where they
made figurines and filigree composi-
tions. “the Firebird”, “the Troika” and
“The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour”
were symbols of the leading jewellery
compositions in different years.
The composition “The Mosque
Kul Sharif” was Grand-Prix win-
ner at Jeweler-2005 exhibition. At
present, the basis of Krasnoselsky
Yuvelirprom’s assortment is gold and
silver jewellery with state-of-the-art
design containing gemstones, souve-
nirs and interior decorations, dishes
and cutlery.
According to Alexey Shcher-bina the director of Golden boat. Moscow Jewellery Award and chief-editor of Jewellery Review and Rus-sian Diamonds & Jewellery maga-zines, this success the first since 1996, when the necklace “Gizehsky sphinx” by Russian designer Elena Opaleva was included in 28 winners of Diamond International Award (DIA De Beers). “Russian jewellery art today is growing intensively, our designers are really creative and skillful and they easily catch the trends, so that’s enough to succeed. It’s not a secret that many of fa-mous European brands are will-ingly cooperating with our domestic companies. The winners of Golden boat. Moscow Jewellery Award 2011 organized by our magazine already for the second time are selected from the number of pieces won in various competitions in Russia and CIS-countries for the last year. The Award targets not only to show the works of contemporary Russian de-signers but also to bring their names to the international scene as they are deserve the world recognition”.
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COMPANY
The suggested addition alloy is made using the direct
alloying technique. The purpose of this addition
alloy is to increase resistance of the alloy to corro-
sion and to enhance its fabricability at the same time. The
requirements for the content of major alloying elements,
amount of loss during melting and casting, versatility of
the obtained alloy for all shaping methods was taken into
account for the addition alloy calculation.
This addition alloy possesses the required brittle-
ness to have good machinability. The influence of the
alloy composition and structure on the surface finish
can be explained by the fact that the higher is the hard-
ness of metal being machined; the lower is a degree of
plastic deformation. The machinability of sterling silver
improves when the content of tin is increased up to a
certain degree.
The alloy obtained on the basis of addition alloy SILV-
VU-I is fabricable at all stages of jewellery manufacturing
process owing to additional content of aluminium, silicon
and cupric phosphide of grades MF I, MF II (at P content
of 10% and 20%). The best results as a strong deoxidizing
and modifying agent and modifier of the second kind were
yielded by boron. A good account was given by aluminium
thanks to its inherent casting properties. Aluminium, phos-
phorus, boron and silicon were introduced in the melt as
strong deoxidizing agents that suppress emergence of
copper oxide.
The deoxidising agent effectiveness can be estimated
by formation heat of its oxide Ho289 relative to copper for-
mation heat. The developed additional alloy is intended for
improvement of fabricability of sterling silver, improvement
of its running quality and reduction in volume shrinkage.
The application of the suggested alloy and a possibil-
ity of obtaining one-piece shaped castings resulted in
bringing down the reject rate of castings in gas porosity
defects by 4-6%, in misruns and cold shuts by 7-9%.
The studies of SrM 925 alloy’s microstructure show
that the castings of the normal silver-copper alloy have
a coarse-grained structure. After soldering and anneal-
ing, there is no increase in size; however, there is some
additional oxidation of surface casting zones that results
in brittleness. The application of the SILV additional alloy
produces the best grain refinement in a casting.
The SILV additional alloy produces a grain packing
and strengthening effect owing to its elements (nickel,
titanium, boron, aluminium) forming an interstitial solu-
tion with silver. Therefore, the properties of suggested
alloy are almost identical to those of pure silver.
Pieces of jewellery made from this alloy have a very
beautiful steely colour and shine and do not darken
with the time.
The alloy’s corrosion stability is increased by alumi-
nium and silicon. Titanium has been selected as an addi-
tional centre of crystallization. Boron has been selected
as modifying and limiting agent that restricts the growth
of crystals and rounds the grains. Erosion resistance is
enhanced by adding nickel.
This alloy was tested at the West Assaying
Inspectorate. The addition alloy was used at
Petrodvorets Watch Factory and Mactime factory
as well as by L.N. Romanenko, an individual entre-
preneur, and other jewellery factories of Kaliningrad
showing its versatility and low costs.
SILVER Becomes More Fabricable *
Amid the crisis and lessening of demand, the
jewellers displayed a growing interest for manu-
facture of silver adornments. Accordingly, the
demand for new technical developments also
increased. We would like to bring to your notice
an article by Alexander Savchenko on new addi-
tional alloy SILV-VU-I developed by him for ster-
ling silver alloys.
* The full Russian version of the report can be found at www.j-r.ru
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Ukraine’s Jewellery Market: Crisis Marketing
In 2010, Kiev Jewellery Factory being the largest
Ukrainian manufacturer of mass-produced jewellery not
only fully used and developed a chain of fifty company
shops all around the country but also sold articles at spe-
cialised outlets located in places crowded with potential
customers, for example, at public transport stops. This
kind of strategy, which seems more suitable to small-
scale producers and distributors, is paying off. Unlike the
corporate chain, this kind of retail outlets offers customers
inexpensive 14ct gold jewellery rather of utilitarian than of
decorative character, such as pendant crosses, cufflinks
and chains. At these outlets, it is not possible to exchange
old gold jewellery or scrap for new one. According to the
manager of one of these jewellery outlets, a customer will
pay only for the work and shop’s services. Up to 50% of
jewellery is being sold through this shop.
Many Ukrainian enterprises manufacture jewellery
using customer’s own gold. However, the sales of jewellery
in exchange for gold will decrease in the next six months
because in accordance with the new Ukrainian tax code,
such operations will be liable to tax.
This facilitated method of selling jewellery is not the
only kind of operation that Kiev Jewellery Factory relies on.
In 2010, the company’s marketing programme included the
support for Sofiyska Brama boutique located right in the
heart of Kiev, as this boutique promotes factory’s brand
among wealthy Ukrainian public. The major products of
this shop are design jewellery with diamonds and coloured
gemstones of the first group often manufactured in one
copy. In parallel, the company is actively involved in public
relations activities indirectly affecting the luxury article mar-
ket by sponsoring beauty contests in Kiev.
The year 2010 can be also characterised by a more
active involvement of the Ukrainian jewellery companies in
the media space of this country. Many manufacturers not
only sponsor all sorts of “talent shows” but often become
initiators of media projects. The Kiev supplier of haute
joaillerie St. Diamond launched a project called “We are
fifty million” (the population of Ukraine) involving potential
partners in it. This project should support young families
creating romantic charm around the family and family rela-
tions. The jewellery just gains points in this context, and
the manufacturing company receives not only good sup-
port through public relations but also broadens a circle of
possible business partners on the luxury jewellery market
(hotels, restaurants, design jewellery and accessories
shops.) Sales of jewellery in a “package” with other pro-
ducts and services of luxury class is a new and developing
trend on the Ukraine market.
In 2010, the producers, including large companies who
are rather conservative in their approach towards custom-
ers and sales, resorted to e-sales. The largest jewellery
News from Post-Soviet Space UKRAINEIn the third crisis year, many Ukrainian producers worked out a new approach
towards the market and changed their strategy; the quiet situation caused by
uncertainty was replaced by new initiatives that can be called “crisis marketing.”
On the other hand, the year 2011 brought some new laws for Ukrainian jewellers.
In 2010, the Ukrainian Jewellers’ Association marked its 10th anniver-sary being the largest non-governmental organization of jewellers in the post-Soviet space both in membership (250 members) and in influence it exercises on the jewellery market and on the government agencies. Its basis is formed by Kharkov and Lvov Jewellery Factories, Vinnytsia Krystall Fac-tory, Agat Jewellery Factory, the Lugansk region, Yuvelirservis Kramatorsk, and Ukrzoloto, as well as Agni and Brus (both from Kharkov), Violet, Crimea; Garazd, Pektoral and Almaz-Diamant — all from Kiev. Some government organisations are also members of the Association: the State As-say Office, the Gemmological Centre of the Ukrainian Ministry of Finance, the Ukrainian Academy of Heraldry, Trade Mark and Logotype, etc. The Association’s structure consists of eight regional departments whose manag-ers are members of the Management Committee.
The main achievements of the Association are as follows: the abolition of the excise tax, minimising the import duty on jewellery gemstones, pre-servation of the 10% import duty on finished jewellery products in the event of WTO accession. In 2010, the Association conducted joint work with the Cabinet of Ministers of the Ukraine and took part in discussing the new tax code project.
The Ukrainian Jewellers’ Association plays an important role in pre-paring and holding jewellery shows in Kiev, Kharkov, Lvov and Odessa. A feature peculiar to the Ukrainian jewellery market, unlike the Russian market, is a good coordination in holding jewellery shows. A lot has been done to develop a system of specialised educational institutions in the recent years. The strongest side of the Association’s activity is organising seminars and consultations on current problems of legislation and taxation.
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manufacturer of diamonds and diamond jewellery in the
Ukraine Vinnytsia Krystall Factory converted its website
into a sort of an on-line sale outlet. Any registered visitor
can have an access to their jewellery catalogue: the aver-
age price of jewellery varies at 1,000 Euro.
Large distributor companies that represent famous
West European brands in the Ukraine do not want to slow
down. A mono-brand boutique of the giant of the world luxu-
ry industry the Italian House Bulgari opened in 2010 in Kiev
testifies to that. The boutique was opened by Noblesse
chain of stores, which supplies Swiss-made watches and
jewellery from Europe to Russia (predominantly, Italian
jewellery brands.)
Amid the crisis, a lot of jewellery shows are being
organised in all the biggest Ukrainian cities: Kiev, Odessa,
Kharkov, Lvov, Zaporozhye. At present, such exhibitions
are normally used as retail sales site.
The new tax code and fiscal policy make Ukrainian
manufacturers search for an access to foreign markets.
Many Ukrainian manufacturers look for their profit outside
the Ukraine, in Russia or in Kazakhstan, or try to get an
access to the Polish market. Two Ukrainian companies
Agat and Agni successfully operate in Moscow; they
received a lot of orders at Crocus Jeweler in Moscow and at
Golden Ring of Russia in Kostroma from the Russian trad-
ing companies owing to the originality of their products.
Norm Tax code adopted 19.11.2010 Final revision of tax code 03.12.2010
Unifi ed Tax
Simplifi ed taxation scheme; practically the entire jewellery trade uses the unifi ed tax.
The operations with jewellery were excluded from the simplifi ed taxation scheme; introduction of a new tax code could adversely affect the entire industry.
The former system is used by individual entrepreneurs with a turnover of up to $65t and not more than ten hired employees, enterprises with a turnover up to $125t and a number of hired workers up to fi fty. They do not pay: profi t tax and VAT, except for legal entities with a 6% tax rate; individual income tax; land tax, tax on the use of subsoil resources, water and forest resources tax; tax on certain types of entrepreneurial activities.
Profi t Tax
The tax will gradually be reduced as of 2011, from the current 25% reaching 16% by 2014.Service costs of the enterprises that use the simplifi ed taxation scheme were included in profi t.
Remains in force.
Inclusion of service costs in profi t for simplifi ed taxation scheme
users: excludes salary tax evasion; adversely affects small scale business: it will be unprofi table to order services from the enterprises that use the simplifi ed taxation system; part of the the enterprises that use the simplifi ed taxation system will change to the new general system if they do not drop out of the game; it will result in the rise in prices on the services market.
Inclusion in the costs of services, consult-ing, and advertisement purchased from non-residents.
Not permitted Limitation in allocating such costs to the gross expenditure is up to 4% of proceeds
VAT
It will be reimbursed automatically. The VAT rate will be reduced as of 1.01.2014 from to 20% 17%.
Remains in force. Tanks to this the amount of funds borrowed by the government from the business will be reduced; the fl oating assets will increase, most of all those at the disposal of exporters. If the VAT rate
will be reduced by 3%, the goods will fall in price by 1–1.5%
Tax Administration
Justifi cation for tax inspections. Unscheduled inspections can be made not oftener than once a year, if an enterprise operates at a loss during four quarters of the year. A tax inspection should be report-ed ten days before.
Any information can be used for tak-ing an inspection. Inspections can be unexpected, at any moment, in any quantity, and without notifi cation.
A justifi cation for it can be information disclosed pursuant to the law of one’s own free will or as requested by the tax department in accordance with the procedure established by law. A justifi cation containing obscure wording shall be excluded.
Who wants to prove his case in disput-able issues associated with accrued taxes.
Taxpayer. However, he will have to pay an amount of tax liabilities ac-crued by the regulatory body.
Regulatory body. The disputed amount of tax liability will not be paid before the court decision.
Is an order issued by head of regulatory body for taking an inspection mandatory
No. In the event when such an order is issued, the taxpayer is stripped of his right to receive its copy.
The order and submission of its copy to the taxpayer is mandatory.
Administrative arrest of property Up to 96 hours Up to 96 hours; however, the tax administration must justify the arrest in court during this time.
Bond for payment of tax Covers the property that costs double the tax payable Covers the property, which net book value conforms to the tax payable.
The taxpayer must supply explanations dur-ing a tax inspection Provided for in any case The taxpayer can refuse to give explanations as regards his family, close
relatives or himself.
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* The simplifi ed taxation system was introduced in the Ukraine in 1998. The tax rate varies within $3-$25 per calendar month with an annual turnover of up to $65t. The tax rate shall be set by local authorities and depends on type of activity. The tax and proceeds rates have not been changed since then, and they are not in tune with the realities of the present-day realities any longer.
The new tax code that entered into force on 1 January
2011, revoked a lot of opposition from business people as
regards the items that could worsen the situation in the
small-scale business. Many jewellery production enter-
prises and almost all jewellery trading companies used to
operate by the simplified taxation system and paid the sin-
gle tax.* In accordance with the new tax code, any activity
associated with precious metals, gemstones and jewellery
must be conducted under the general taxation system.
The provision was excluded from the final edition of this
document that concerned the cancellation of the simplified
tax in the majority of business activities (including the jewel-
lery production and trade) and transition to the unitary tax
system and the mandatory introduction of cash registers. On
3 December, the Ukrainian president V. Yanukovich signed
the tax code version approved by the business community
representatives and instructed, within two months, to pre-
pare a draft of a special law “On Small-Scale Businesses.”
The table that follows gives an idea of the discussions held
about the main provisions of the new tax code.
The Ukrainian authorities, after the protests made
by the business community, gave up the idea of wors-
ening the conditions for small-scale business because
it contradicts the Ukrainian constitution. Besides, the
new tax code provides for compensation in the reduc-
tion of the profit tax and VAT. The final revision of
the tax code contains a milder incentive to leave the
simplified taxation system, i.e. the inclusion of service
costs in profit. The Russian business community does
not make any open protest yet against a considerable
increase, as of 1 January 2011, in payroll deductions
for all enterprises 26% to 34%; for small-scale busi-
nesses the deductions will increase by 2.5 times i.e.
14% to 34%. There is no compensation provided like
reduction of the tax profit or VAT.
A desire to place all entrepreneurs
in equal conditions will be documented
in the new law “On Small Businesses”.
However, the task to protect the small-
scale business remains urgent. The
President of the Ukrainian Jewellers’
Association Grigory Mazharovsky: “We must help the market
entities to pass the transition period without losing their busi-
ness because more than 70% of jewellery factories operated by
the simplified system. If a collapse of trade happens, large and
medium-size producers who do not have their own retail store
chain may suffer. We consult the members of the Association;
advise them what can be done in various situations, or how to
compose a work schedule. Many enterprises will have to be
reregistered, actually, to start from the beginning. It is not so dif-
ficult to have the documents reissued; but what can be done with
the employees or with the goods? It is a major problem.
The year 2010 was revolutionary for us. Just within three
months, the market situation was drastically changed. The
licencing for operations with jewellery was abolished, and
a new control system was introduced. The association was
against the abolition, because the abolition of licencing results
in the abolition of the licence conditions such as a mandatory
contract with a security agency, availability of premises under
the existing regulations, etc. We submitted our revision of
amendments, and the authorities examined our suggestions
with proper understanding. We succeeded in obtaining for jew-
ellers opportunities to get an indefinite-term licence. The next
step would be an indefinite-term licence that could be passed
down together with the enterprise. We had never demanded
the abolition of licences; we wanted our companies to work in
an adequate legal environment to provide the real producers
with beneficial conditions for business.
We are not sure that we know how to confront pirated
goods in new conditions. At present, the share of shady busi-
ness exceeds 40%. How can we neutralise it? In order to reach
the level of European countries, we must reform both the legis-
lation and economy, and the management structure in general.
You may well know that any entrepreneur may get registered
as a producer having no equipment or operating personnel
whatsoever, and bring contraband into the country, having
these goods hallmarked as if they were his own products.
No-one cares if this producer has production facilities.”
– There have been serious tax inspections, and some
of them were even scandalous, at several well-known
companies recently. What can be done not to give cause
to such inspections?
– More often than not they check cases of tax evasion.
Why do people evade taxes? Because they do not keep
accounting records. The only correct way to operate the enter-
prise is to observe the applicable laws. Our Association is
always ready to protect its members at all levels in the event of
wrong acts on the part of the government. We have our repre-
sentatives in almost all government agencies from the Cabinet
of Ministers to social councils. We have experienced lawyers.
All this can work out, if the enterprise functions within the law. If
the enterprise evaded taxes and did smuggling, which was dis-
covered by an inspection, why should the Association protect
this enterprise? We never protect shady business.
A desire to place all entrepreneurs the abolition of licences we wanted our companies to work in
in
in
Ho
sc
Pr
Association Grigory
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JEWELLANDJewelland jewellery holding was founded in 1995. As of now, it possesses its own manufacturing facilities, a well-developed chain of gold wholesale stores and a retail chain consisting of twelve spe-cialised shops in Saint Petersburg. During the years of holding’s operation, its patrons and partners circle
was formed all over Russia. Every year, the geographi-
cal range of its deliveries becomes broader and broader.
The Jewelland’s range of jewellery articles is extremely
wide. The company adheres to the policy of manufactur-
ing exclusive quality articles and of maintaining agreeable
prices. Jewelland’s products are made from platinum,
gold and silver with natural gemstones and also from their
synthetic analogues.
The company is rightly considered to be one of
the leading professionals of the Russian jewellery sector.
MAGIA ZOLOTAFor its seventeen years of operation on the market, Magia
Zolota has become one of the largest chains of jewellery
shops covering many Russian cities and the CIS coun-
tries. Fifty-three company’s shops are located in various
Russian cities (Moscow, Saint Petersburg, Astrakhan,
Perm, Yekaterinburg, Voronezh, Ufa, Novosibirsk, Ust-
Ilimsk, Volgodonsk and Yaroslavl); in Kazakhstan (Almaty);
in Belarus (Minsk); in Ukraine (Kiev). As usual, the shops
are located in the central streets of the cities, the area of
each shop being 15 to 35 square metres
Retail Chains and WholesalersThe number of jewellery shops and stores in Russia and the CIS countries accounts for over 20 thousand. Trade experience shows retail nets are most sensitive to consumer demand and market behavior. They can rapidly develop distribution in various regions.Cardinal part of the retail outlets consists of big networks with jewellery shops all over the country. In addition, new regional retail nets sprang up during the last 15 years. Besides, jewellery boutiques selling exclusively premium class and de luxe jewellery are opened in all big cities. The RD&J in every issue traditionally tell to readers about jewellery traders which won an excellent reputation of long-term reliable partners. This time we added to the review the information about wholesale companies which have been operating on the jewellery market for years, acquired partner through the many Russian regions and in foreign countries.
DRAGOTSENNAYA ORKHIDEYAThe chain of jewellery shops in the Perm terri-tory consists of six jewel-lery shops, three of which are located in Perm, two — in Berezniky; and one of them is located in Dobryanka. The shops are situated in the centre of town, actually being multi-brand salons with an area of 75 to 130 m2. Two of them rent some premises of
the shopping mall, while the others are isolated shops.Dragotsennaya Orkhideya offers Russian and Italian
jewellery. Its partners are Almaz-Holding, Adamas, Diamant,
Platina, Brillianty Kostromy, Master Brilliant, Kakholong,
Tulupov Jewellery House, ELLE Jewelry, Intalia, Style Avenu,
etc. The company has been operating on the market for
fourteen years.
DOM ZLATADom Zlata is one of the largest retailers of Ukraine. It was
founded in 1991. Its forty-six shops are located in thirty cities
of the country and placed in the central parts of town both
as isolated points of sale, and in various trading centres.
The company collaborates with manufacturers and brands
like Yuvelirservis, Smaragd, Yuvelirelit, Ukrzoloto, Akimov,
Violet, KUZ, Morion, Vostok, Khrizafi, Tecnigold, Silmar,
Breuning, Blumer, Magalini, Fibo and Super Bell.
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ALMAZ The Ukrainian National
Jeweler chain. For today it
includes 13 stores in basic
cities of Ukraine with a pop-
ulation over 500 thousand
persons: Dnepropetrovsk,
Kiev, Donetsk, Kharkov,
Lugansk. Almaz is a chain
of modern multi-brand stores
which are located in the central areas of cities with 75% - in
shopping malls and 25% - street retail. General area of chain
– 2153 m2; average area of the store – 166 m2.
Product range includes 40% of diamond jewelry, 25%
of brands, 20% of gold jewelry, 10% of silver jewelry and
5% of silverware. Gathering the best collections from leading
fashion brands all over the world, Almaz chain has the widest
assortment in Ukrainian market. It extends from the well-
known Ukrainian brands: SaGa, Enigmax to world-renowned
Spanish, Italian, French, German and Swiss brands as demo-
cratic, Braccialini, Cacharel, Calgaro, Cavalery, Celegato,
Facco Gioielli, Morgan, Nanis, Nina Ricci, Blu Amante,
Chimento, Frank Trautz, Nina Ricci, Rivoir, Marco Bicego,
Rosato, Anna Maria Cammilli, Kidou, Rosso Amante, Zancan,
Breuning, Furrer Jacot and prestigious jewelry of Faberge,
Magerit and Palmiero. Pride of Almaz network is a group of
diamond products.
The Company has been working on Ukrainian jewelry
market for 17 years (since 1994 year).
AZAMAT-ZOLOTOThe store chain from Astana
(Kakhstan), Azamat-Zoloto is
a part of the large diversi-
fied holding Oh, Azamat. Its
stores offer the best jewel-
lery produced by a number
of Russian and Ukrainian
leading manufacturers such
as Almaz-Holding, Topaz,
Lukas, Yakutskie brillianty, Sadko, Platina.
As a result of search for new opportunities and its own
marketing strategy, Azamat-Zoloto now holds a chain of eight
jewellery stores in large shopping molls in Astana (6), branches
in Kokshetau (1) and Stepnogorsk (1). Interiors of “Azamat-
Zoloto” showrooms are stylishly decorated in the unique man-
ner: large shopping space, soft lighting, comfortable and up to
date showcases, an atmosphere favoring for customers.
Annual increase of the company’s turnover is the key
evidence of Azamat-Zoloto growth.
The company has been operating on the market for
seven years.
KAZAKHYUVELIRThe largest jewellery com-
mercial enterprise in the
territory of the republic of
Kazakhstan, which start-
ed its business from the
four stores and rose to the
country’s largest wholesale
and retail chain. Over 20
stores located in the larg-
est cities of Kazakhstan form the company’s basis. Variety
and affluence of choice of items in the Kazakhyuvelir chain
was instrumental in guaranteeing partnership with lead-
ing jewellery manufacturers from Russia, Ukraine, Italy,
Germany and the USA. The main feature of Kazakhyuvelir
assortment is nationally coloured jewelleries, namely
rings, earrings, bracelets, pendants with national symbols.
The style of the trademark reflecting the culture of the
Kazakh people is always recognizable. Due to its reputa-
tion, the company maintains fruitful cooperation with many
large commercial organizations and banks, including mak-
ing souvenirs, medals, watches, sleeve-buttons, pens and
badges with national symbols.
LINOThe company has been operating on the market for twelve
years. The main area of its activity is premium class dia-
mond jewellery, exclusive and limited edition jewellery. The
manufacturing facilities of Lino, equipped with the state-of-
art machine tools, are located in Yekaterinburg, where two
show rooms displaying company products are situated
too. On the average, the company manufactures 1.5 - 2.0
kg of finished articles per month. The company has found
a lot of partners all over Russia — from Kaliningrad to
Vladivostok — during its operations on the market.
YUVEROSThe company has been operating on the market for twelve
years. Most of the company’s products are mass-produced
articles made from gold with diamonds and coloured gem-
stones. A new area the company is developing is silver
jewellery. Earlier it was silverware, now it is mostly jewel-
lery. Yuveros possesses its own production facilities. As
of now, there are two company’s shops: in Podolsk (the
Moscow region) and in Moscow. The company is going
to open another three shops in Moscow. Yuveros collabo-
rates almost with all the regions of Russia and with some
partners in Turkey and Thailand.
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The major Moscow expositions have moved to
the Crocus Expo during the last eighteen months.
The exhibition complex with a total area of
500,000 square meters located in the North-West district
of the Russian capital gains in popularity with each exhibi-
tion held there. The Crocus Expo’s infrastructure is of great
relevance too: the Aquarium Hotel located in Pavilion 3
to be commissioned in 2011, two more high-rise hotels;
underground and multi-level car parks for 40,000 vehicles;
the metro railway station located on the premises of
the complex with exits to Pavilion 2 and 3. It takes some
thirty minutes to reach Crocus from Moscow centre by
metro railway. The same period of time will be needed to
get to Crocus from Sheremetyevo Airport, and a little longer
from Domodedovo Airport.
Crocus is not only a trade fair centre but also a huge
shopping mall (Crocus City Mall) and the most spacious
Moscow concert hall named after Muslim Magomayev. All
these facts added together attract a lot of visitors, wholesalers
and retailers. The comfortable working conditions and long-
term stability, which no other Moscow site can offer today,
are in the foreground now. All Crocus Expo’s projects have
been planned for long periods; therefore they are based on
loyalty to their partners. For example, Yuvelir-Fest rented
their exhibition space on the condition that the prices would
not perk up within five years. Accordingly, the exhibitors of
the Crocus Jeweler ‘s programme used to pay $200 per one
square metre of the raw space, i.e. two times less than similar
Moscow exhibition centres would demand. The prices will
not change either for those who participated in two or more
Crocus-Yuvelir-2011 fairs within five years.
Amid the crisis and sales slowdown, the high
Moscow exhibition prices became simply impracticable for
Since 2011, the Crocus Expo, Moscow’s largest and state-of-the-art trade fair and
business centre, has been house to Russian jewellery fairs. Yuvelir-Fest launched
the Crocus Jeweler exhibition programme together with the Jewellers’ Guild
of Russia, regional professional associations as well as jewellers’ associations
of the CIS countries. The May and September exhibitions are of interest
to the foreign companies that already operate or are going to operate on
the Russian market. The other jewellery market participants are attracted by
comfortable working conditions and unprecedentedly low prices for Moscow.
The Much Expected Exhibition
The General Director of Jewellers’ Guild
of Russia VLADIMIR MOSPAN gets familiarised at Crocus
Jeweler with the products of Krastsvetmet factory,
one of the leading Russian jewellery manufacturers.
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jewellery manufacturers, who have the highest spendings.
It may well be known that starting from 2009; Moscow
exhibition spaces do not yield any financial gain to
the majority of the exhibitors from their retail sales or relative
to the number of their signed wholesale contracts.
The democratic provisions of the Crocus Jeweler ‘s
programme give wide opportunities to Russian regional
and foreign companies to enter the Moscow market and,
consequently, the all-Russia market as well. The Crocus
Jeweler organisers are trying to re-establish the status of
a normal market segment for the companies where prices
and margin must be correlated to the general situation.
As the information on the new trade fair projects spread
about, it was supported by the leaders of the jewellery
market from Moscow, Saint Petersburg and Kostroma.
The foreign companies are interested in the spring
(21-24 May) and autumn (14-18 September) fairs to be held
under the new programme. In May, several dozen compa-
nies from Thailand are expected to come. They developed
a new brand, Ploi Thai, in that country last year, which means
‘Thai valuables,’ and accepted its promotion programme
on the national level. Therefore, visitors to the May Crocus
Jeweler will get to know not only stones of the renowned Thai
cut and Thai silver articles but also the Thai national songs,
dances and specialities of the Thai cuisine. This fair except
the brand zone will include the collective stands of Saint
Petersburg, Kostroma, Yakutia (Sakha Republic), Ukraine as
well as Hong-Kong and Turkey jewellers.
As advised by a number of big Russian companies,
the autumn fair has been planned for 14-18 September,
2011. However, afterwards they are going to move it to
the first half of October. It would be more convenient for
all because September is crowded with shows and fairs
both in Europe and in Asia, and they are visited by many
experts of Russian manufacturing and trading jewellery
companies.
Within 2006-2010, autumn exhibitions Golden
Globe were held at Crocus Expo. On 11 - 14
November 2010, the Golden Globe/Moscow Jewellery
International was held; it was the 5th edition but the first
time for Yuvelir-Fest. Over 80 jewellery and timepiece
making companies from Russia, Belarus, Azerbaijan,
Kirgizstan and Switzerland took part in it. At the Golden
Globe, the customers’ interest was attracted both by
traditionally high-quality brands such as Krasnoselsky
Yuvelirprom, Moscow Special Alloys Plant, Maskom,
Sakha Yuvelir, and by the ultra-modern designs elabo-
rated by Lino Russian Platinum Company, Agni,
Goldberry and Casting House. At this exhibition, the
winners of the second Russian jewellery Golden Boat
contest received their awards; and one of the winners
Ilgiz Fazulzyanov, for his Bullfinches pendant, received
the Grand Prix at the International Jewellery Design
Excellence Award 2011, whose balance was struck on
4 March in Hong-Kong. The contest most prestigious
on the jewellery market of Russia and CIS countries
will further be held within the Crocus Jeweler’s exhibi-
tion programme.
Just prior to 8 March, a pre-holiday jewellery fair
traditional for the Russian jewellery market was held
at Crokus Expo. It was accompanied by a large influx
of prospective end consumers and enhanced sales.
Purchases at $15-20t were not rare because wealthy
people normally go shopping to Crokus. Thus, the
products of Crokus-Yuvelir’s foreign exhibitors can be
seen both by trade representatives from all Russian
regions and by multiple end consumers. The advan-
tages of the new programme, such as low prices ($200
per one square metre) were enhanced by an opportu-
nity to construct exclusive stands two times cheaper
due to the use of new Advantec sets available only at
Crokus Expo.
JEWELLERS AT CROCUS EXPO
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G R F F I T I
RINGS
BLUE WHITE
GROUP
PENDANTPENDANT
GIORGIO VISCONTI
PENDANTSPENDANTS
SUPEROROSUPERORO
The letters and monograms do not
perform only a decorative function.
Embellishments containing text
messages is another modern sub-
culture component and is one of the
paths to self-identification. The jew-
ellers adorn rings and pendants with
pictures, confessions and messages
made from gemstones applying var-
ious methods of surface treatment
and text application.
PENDANT
JUVELIA
(Russia,
Saint Perersburg)
Nowadays, the modern jewellery art keeps upaaaddd
with the times as it never did before, displayingttt
a general tendency to return to less complicatedeeeennn
shapes and materials.apapap
Expecting BASELWORLD 2011, the jewellerspepp
prepared collections that will determine majorepee
trends in design such as Champagne Bubbles,eee
Graffiti, Chocolate, etc. These trends are unitedGrGrGr
by jewellers’ aspiration to focus not only onbybyby
colour, shape, volume and function, but alsoccc
return to symbolic and conceptual aspects ofrrr
jewellery design.j
A relationship between jewellery and the core
values of modern society is expressed in major
trends of the coming year.
By Irina Slesareva
62
DE
SIG
NTRENDS
1 / M A R C H , 2 0 1 1RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY
PENDAPENDA
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PENDANTSPENDANTS
TIFFANY & COTIFFANY & CO
PENDANT
GOLDBERRYGOLDBERRY
(Russia, Kostroma)(Russia, Kostroma)
EARRINGSEARRINGS
BROSWAYBROSWAY
BRACELETBRACELET
BROSWAYBROSWAY
RINGSRINGS
ORIANNE COLLINSORIANNE COLLINS
PENDANTPENDANT
LOWELL GROUP LOWELL GROUP
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SIG
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RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY
TRENDS
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IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF THE RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY:
► Gems&Precious column: innovative Russian technologies for treatment of emeralds and tourmalines, new synthetic amethyst identification methods developed by the State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine;
► Market column: Russian diamond market review, review of demand trends following the Chrismas selling results, news from Russian and foreign companies;
► More: jewellery design trends, reports on metropolitan and regional jewellery shows, etc.
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