MASTEY TEINTUREColor Formulations
THERE ARE PLENTY OF WRONG FORMULAS
THERE IS NO RIGHT FORMULA
DIFFERENT PEOPLEDifferent Formulas
CONSULTATION
NATURAL LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
RPC =% GRAY = NEEDED LIFT =ADDITIONAL TONE=
RPC = RED% GRAY = 25%NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= PURPLE
Mastey Hair Color Is Not Matte Or Translucent It Is Reflective Color Like Natural Hair Color
LEVELSNatural Hair Levels
As level rises so does alkalinity
Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment
LEVEL 6 WILL LIFT MORE THAN A LEVEL 5
MORE LIFT = MORE RPC
As level rises amount of Pigment Decreases
Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment
LEVEL 9 HAS MORE PIGMENT THAN A LEVEL 11
MORE PIGMENT = BETTER COVERAGE & TONING
60 VOLUME HAS MORE LIFTTHAN 10 VOLUME
10 VOLUME DEPOSITS BETTER THAN 60 VOLUME
REMAINING PIGMENT
% OF GRAY
DESIRED TONAL VALUE
NATURAL LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
RPC =% GRAY = NEEDED LIFT =ADDITIONAL TONE=
RPC = RED% GRAY = 25%NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= PURPLE
Tones & Bases24 pre mixed tonal options
Color TonesNumbers Letters & Words
AMPLIFIERSOxidative Tints
07 => COOL NEUTRAL + BLUEUsed to enhance darker shades or neutralize lighter shades
37 => YELLOW + BLUE = GREENUsed to neutralize REDS AND ORANGES
22 => VIOLET + VIOLETUsed to enhance dark shades or neutralize yellows in light shades
44 => COPPER + COPPERUsed to enhance or introduce coper into a shade
64 => RED + COPPERUsed to enhance or introduce red copper into a shade
66 => RED + REDUsed to enhance or introduce red into a shade
67 => RED + BLUEUsed to enhance or introduce red cherry into a shade
33 => GOLD + GOLDUsed to enhance or introduce gold into a shade
How to use Amplifiers
✤ For Vibrancy
✤ For Toning
How much do I use
✤ 7/8 Base Shade + 1/8 Amplifier = Toning While Lifting
✤ 3/4 Base Shade + 1/4 Amplifier = More Depth + Little Tone
✤ 1/2 Base Shade + 1/2 Amplifier = More Tone + Less Depth
✤ 1/4 Base Shade + 3/4 Amplifier = Mostly Tone + Little Depth
When Should I use Amplifiers
✤ Depositing => To add tone
✤ Lifting 1 Level=> minimal RPC / add to enhance tone
✤ Lifting 2 Levels => RPC Medium / Use to enhance or counteract
✤ Lifting 3 + Levels => RPC Lots / Use to enhance or counteract
Color Formulations for Vibrancy
✤ Black & Dark Browns ✤ Use 07 or 22 to add a Blue or Violet tone to your blacks. this gives
you a more beautiful richer black as opposed to a flat black.
✤ 1 part 1.07 + 1 part 07 + 10 Volume
✤ 1 part 1.07 + 1 part 22 + 10 Volume
Color Formulations for Vibrancy
✤ Reds ✤ Use 64, 66 and 67 with red shades to add intensity to existing red
shades
✤ Use higher levels of peroxide to expose more underlying pigment and use that to intensify a result.
✤ 1 part 7.6 + 1 part 66 + 30 Volume + HEAT (optional)
Color Formulations for Vibrancy
✤ Coppers ✤ Use 44 and 64 with copper shades to create richer brighter copper
results.
✤ Use higher levels of peroxide to expose more underlying pigment and use that natural remaining pigment to enhance the copper result.
✤ 1 part 8.64 + 1 part 64 + 30 Volume + HEAT (optional)
Color Formulations for Toning
✤ When Lifting ✤ Adding 37 green, 22 violet or 07 blue, or a combination of them
into a formula, can help you to counteract underlying pigment as you are lifting.
Classic Formulation: Highlights
✤ On Levels 6 and bellow: ✤ Add 37 Green amplifier to your lifting formula
✤ 11.2 + 37 + 60 Volume
Classic Formulation: Highlights
✤ On Levels 7 and higher: ✤ Add 07 BLUE Amplifier to your lifting formula
✤ 11.2 + 07 + 60 Volume
✤ For more control ✤ Mix 07 and 37 to create a more blue green when counteracting.
✤ Others like Violet pigment so they use 22 instead of 07 or a mixture of 07 & 22 in their high lift formulas.
Classic Formulation: Highlights
AMPLIFIERS
✤ For best results use with a base tone that already has the desired tone: 4.6 + 66
✤ The more amplifier you put into a formula the more it affects the lift of the shade in that formula
✤ 11.2 + 07 lifts less than just using 11.2
PERCENTAGES MAKE A DIFFERENCE
• 1 1/2 oz of 6.6 + 1/2 oz of 66• IS NOT EQUAL TO
• 1/2 oz of 6.6 + 1/1/2 oz of 66
SIMPLE FORMULATION BREAKDOWN
• 4.3 => 4.0 + 33
SIMPLE FORMULATION BREAKDOWN
• The more 33 you add the more gold in your formula
• The more gold the more warmth you create.
• To add more warmth or gold to a level 4 gold (4.3):
•4.3 + 33
TRICKIER FORMULATION BREAKDOWN
• 4.65 = 4.6 + 4.5
• or
• 4.65 = 4.6 + 33 + 22 + 66
ADDING MORE VIOLET TO 4.65
• 4.65 + 22
COLOR FORMULATIONIt’s Like Cooking!
NEUTRAL = BROWNBlue + Red + Yellow = Brown
NEUTRAL = BROWNOrange + Purple + Green = Brown
YOU ARE ALWAYS MAKING BROWN!
• Make Brown then Add Tone
STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
FORMULALEVEL 4.010 VOLUMEAMPLIFIER: NONE
START LEVEL: 5DESIRED LEVEL: 4RPC = NONE% GRAY = 0%NEEDED LIFT = 0 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= NONE
STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
FORMULALEVEL 3.010 VOLUMEAMPLIFIER: 07 + 22
START LEVEL: 5DESIRED LEVEL: 3RPC = NONE% GRAY = 0%NEEDED LIFT = 0 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= BLUE/PURPLE
STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
FORMULALEVEL 6.56TO HELP GRAY: 6.320 OR 30 VOLUMEAMPLIFIER: 67
START LEVEL: 4DESIRED LEVEL: 6RPC = RED% GRAY = 25%NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= PURPLE
STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
FORMULALEVEL 8.030 OR 40 VOLUMEAMPLIFIER: 07 OR 07 +22OR 07+37
START LEVEL:5DESIRED LEVEL: 8RPC = YELLOW/ORANGE% GRAY = 0%NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= NEUTRAL
STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
FORMULALEVEL 11.260 VOLUMEAMPLIFIER: 07 OR 07 +22OR 07+37TONE WITH 9.2 DEMI
START LEVEL:7DESIRED LEVEL: 11RPC = YELLOW% GRAY = 0%NEEDED LIFT = 4 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= PLATINUM
How Long Will Color Last
✤ Depends on:
✤ Porosity
✤ Dryness
✤ Contact Duration
✤ Shampoo Habits
✤ Color Darkness
✤ Type of Color Formula
GLOSS / GLAZESEMIDEMI
PERMANENT
CUSTOMER TYPE = FORMULA TYPE
Advance Color FormulasUsing Oxidative & Acidic Dyes
Refreshing Faded EndsUse remaining color in bowl and add Color Instantane to pull through
Use instead of a shampoo cap or pulling through straight color
Doubling Your Pigment
✤ Normal Formula
✤ 2 oz 5.34 Teinture
✤ 2 oz 20 Volume
✤ Double Pigment Formula
✤ 2 oz 5.34 Teinture
✤ 1 oz 40 Volume
✤ 1 oz 5.34 Instantane
TINT BACKSFrom Bleached Blonde Back to Brown
Date
Date
Demi Permanent2 oz Instantane + 1oz 20 Volume + 1oz Teinture
Use instead of progressive demi products like shades
Semi Permanent2 oz Instantane + 1oz 10 Volume + 1oz Teinture
Lasts about 6-8 shampoos
Text
Types of Toners
✤ Use amplifiers in your formula to tone as you lift.
✤ Mastey Color Shampoo
✤ Instantane as a toner by itself
✤ Toner Formula
Toner Formula = SEMI2 oz Instantane + 1oz 10 Volume + 1oz Teinture
Lasts about 6-8 shampoos
Gloss or GlazeGloss is a clear shine / Glaze is a gloss tinted with a tone
GlossApply to hair after color, Process 10 Minutes, Shampoo
Glaze1oz Clear Gloss + 1oz of desired tone in Instantane
CG + 5.73 Instantane => Toasted Hazelnut Glaze, Same Process procedure as Gloss
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
From Color Creation to Final Look
KATY PERRYCreate a beautiful tone over black to dark brown hair 1.07 + 07 OR 1.07 + 22
DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGEDark Hair with Glimmers of Golden Light11.2 + 07 OR 11.2 + 37 Both with 60 Volume
ANN HATHAWAYCreating Root Beer6.3 + 4.65
EMMA STONEFormula 1: 6.64 + 6.3Formula 2: 7.43 Glaze Formula
JENNIFER ANISTONFormula 1: 7.1 + 20 VolumeFormula 2: 6.23 + 10 VolumeFormula 3: 11.2 + 60 Volume
JENNIFER LOPEZFormula 1: 8.1 + 37 + 30 VolumeFormula 2: 11.2 + 07 + 60 VolumeFormula 3: 7.4 + 9.3 + 20 VolumeFormula 4: 7.9 + 10 VolumeFormula 5: 11.2 + 10.2 Glaze
10 FORMULA CONVERSIONS
• Pick 10 of your existing formulas
• Pick a part of each formula you would like to enhance
• Enhance them some how using the techniques you have learned. Add a tone, a glaze or double pigment...
10 CELEBRITY FORMULAS
• Pick 10 celebrities
• Grab a picture of their look from google images.
• Tell us how you would achieve that look on your model.
• Each models starting level is either a level 4, 5, or 6
• These looks should be more than 1 single color, they should use the techniques and formulations you have learned in your training.