Consumer Specialties | 18/04/23 Page | 2
Properties & Features
HyaCare® Filler CL is
• based on a unique, cross-linked polysaccharide
• made from very pure, fermentation-derivedhyaluronic acid
• a W/O emulsion containing super-absorbingspherical particles
• preservative free
• INCI (proposed): Aqua, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Sodium Isostearate, Alcohol
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Benefits & Claims
HyaCare® Filler CL
• Instantly fills fine lines & wrinkles
• Topical alternative to injectables
• Thoroughly hydrates the skin
• Increases skin elasticity
• Smoothes skin surface Start
Before application
15 min after application
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Cross-linking in emulsion
O
OH
HO
COOH
OO
NH
OHO
O
OH
Emulsion Droplets
Spherical CL-HA Particles
Cross-linking
The average particle size distribution of HyaCare® Filler CL is approx. 700 nm
Particle size distribution
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Water uptake test
Addition of water to the CL-HA W/O emulsion leads to water uptake
Water is not taken up by a hyaluronic acid W/O emulsion
HyaCare® Filler CL particles • have super-absorbing properties• show superior water binding
t = 0 min
t = 30 min
____20 µm___
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In vitro enzymatic degradation - Test design & result
HyaCare® Filler CL• is stable against enzymatic degradation• supports longer lasting moisturization
Method:• Measurement of enzymatic cleavage by hyaluronidase
• Photometrically quantification by determination of released reducing sugars
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In vitro MTT-assay –Test design & result
HyaCare® Filler CL protects the skin models from drying out
HyaCare® Filler CL even shows a superior long term effect compared to the vehicle formulation
40,0
50,0
60,0
70,0
80,0
90,0
100,0
110,0
+ cover - cover - cover
vehicle RT vehicle RT HyaCare Filler CL
viab
ilit
y [%
]
***
++
*** p<0.001 vs. vehicle (+ cover), ++ p<0.01 vs. vehicle (- cover)
Method:
• Cell viability during drying of skin models (SkinEthic) under laminar flow (rel. to vehicle formulation cultivated at RT with plate cover)
MTT-assay
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In vitro MTT-assay test –Histology image result
HyaCare® Filler CL leads to a better structured epidermis
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Ex vivo wrinkle filling testDesign & result
HyaCare® Filler CL particles fill fine lines & wrinkles
Fluorescently labelled HyaCare® Filler CL was applied on pig skin
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In vivo evaluation – Test design
Test formulation #24
Number of volunteers: 16
Application: O/W vehicle with 0.1 % HyaCare®
O/W vehicle with 2.5 % HyaCare® Filler CLOn inner forearm
Selected time points: After 2 h
Analysis: CorneometerVisioscan VC 98
Observed activity: Skin moisturizationSkin surface
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In vivo evaluation – Test results
Skin moisturization Skin surface
HyaCare® Filler CL• thoroughly hydrates the skin• smoothes skin surface by reducing number & depth of wrinkles
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In vivo evaluation of wrinkles – Test design
Application: O/W cream with 5% HyaCare® Filler CLOn face
Selected time points: After 15 min & 1h
Analysis: Photo
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Before application 15 min after application
HyaCare® Filler CL instantly fills fine lines & wrinkles
In vivo evaluation of wrinkles – Test result
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In vivo evaluation of wrinkles – Test result
Before application 1h after application
HyaCare® Filler CL smoothes skin surface
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HyaCare® Filler CLFormulation Hints
Recommended usage concentration: 0.5 – 5 %
Preparation of an O/W-Emulsion (Cream or Lotion):
Normally, HyaCare® Filler CL should be added to the oil phase of the emulsion. Then the emulsion is prepared as usual.
In some cases HyaCare® Filler CL might disturb the build up of the liquid crystalline structure of the O/W-emulsion. In these cases, it is recommended to add it during the cooling process at temperatures below 40°C.
If high concentrations of HyaCare® Filler CL are used (4 - 5%), it increases the viscosity of the O/W emulsion. In this case, the viscosity can be adjusted by decreasing the concentration of consistency enhancers like fatty alcohols (TEGO® Alkanol 16, 1618 or 18) and glyceryl stearate (TEGIN® M Pellets).
Preparation of a W/O-Emulsion (Cream or Lotion):
The W/O emulsion is prepared as usual. At the end of the production HyaCare® Filler CL is added.
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HyaCare® Filler CL -Guideline formulation
Preparation:
1. Heat phase A and B to approx. 80°C.
2. Add phase A to B while stirring.
3. Homogenize.
4. Cool down to 60°C and add phase C.
5. Homogenize again for a short time.
6. Cool down to 30°C. Add phase D and Z below 40°C.
Important: If phase A has to be charged
into the vessel first, add phase B without stirring.
Dermal Filler Cream(MAC 672/3/1)
A Axol® C 62 Pellets(Glyceryl Stearate Citrate)
1.5 %
TEGIN® M Pellets(Glyceryl Stearate)
3.0 %
TEGO® Alkanol 18(Stearyl Alcohol)
2.0 %
Stearic Acid 1.0 %
TEGOSOFT® CT(Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
8.5 %
TEGOSOFT® M(Isopropyl Myristate)
7.0 %
TEGOSOFT® CR (Cetyl Ricinoleate)
2.0 %
HyaCare® Filler CL(Aqua; Ethylhexyl Stearate; Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer; Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate; Sodium Isostearate; Alcohol (proposed))
3.0 %
B Glycerin 3.0 %
Water 68.0 %
C TEGO® Carbomer 134(Carbomer)
0.2 %
TEGOSOFT® CT(Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
0.8 %
D Sodium Hydroxide (10 % in water) q.s.
Z Preservative, parfum q.s.
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HyaCare® Filler CL -Guideline formulation
Eye Cream(MAC 672/1/1)
A TEGO® Care 450(Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate)
3.0 %
TEGIN® M Pellets(Glyceryl Stearate)
2.0 %
TEGO® Alkanol 18(Stearyl Alcohol)
2.0 %
TEGOSOFT® CT(Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
7.5 %
TEGOSOFT® DC(Decyl Cocoate)
9.5 %
Avocade (Persea Gratissima) Oil 2.0 %
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.5 %
HyaCare® Filler CL(Aqua; Ethylhexyl Stearate; Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer; Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate; Sodium Isostearate; Alcohol (propsosed))
3.0 %
B Glycerin 3.0 %
Water 67.5 %
C Lactic Acid (10 % in water) q.s.
Z Preservative, parfum q.s.
Preparation:
1. Heat phase A and B to approx. 80°C.
2. Add phase A to B while stirring.
3. Homogenize.
4. Cool down to 30°C. Add phase C and
Z below 40°C.
Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, add phase B without stirring.
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• Instantly fills fine lines & wrinkles
• Topical alternative to injectables
• Thoroughly hydrates the skin
• Increases skin elasticity
• Smoothes skin surface
Possible applications:
• Anti-wrinkle eye care products
• Anti-aging facial serum
• Special care for expression lines
• Skin plumping face care
• Facial sun care
• Intense moisturizing skin care
HyaCare® Filler CL -Your benefits at a glance
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Especially concerning Active Ingredients
This product information is not intended to provide legal or regulatory advice about product uses or claims in any jurisdiction and should not be relied upon for such guidance (especially in the United States, Canada, and Mexico). Since global regulatory requirements differ, parties accessing this information are solely responsible for determining whether the products and/or claims comply with applicable local laws and regulations, including but not limited to import and export regulations. Please contact your local Evonik representative for more product information. Evonik assumes no liability for any use of our products that is not in compliance with the requirements of the country of the user.
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Glossary
CL-HA: cross-linked hyaluronic acid
MTT-assay: Is a cell culture test & standard colometric assay for measuring cell viability based on mitochondrial activity. Yellow MTT (3-(4,5-Dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide, a tetrazole) is reduced to purple formazan in living cells.
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Particle Size Distribution
• Method:Detection by SPOS (single particle optical sensing; lower and upper limits of measurement are 0,5 and 400 µm, respectively)
• Microsope image of dispersion:
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
0,6
0,7
0,8
1,0
1,2
1,4
1,6
1,9
2,2
2,6
3,1
3,6
4,2
5,0
d / µm
% (
num
ber
wei
ghte
d)
Back #4
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In vitro test design
1) vehicle formulation 1
“normal” cultivation at room temperature with plate-cover under laminar flow
2) vehicle formulation 2
cultivation at room temperature without plate-cover under laminar flow (drying of the skin models)
3) formulation + HyaCare® Filler CL
cultivation at room temperature without plate-cover under laminar flow (drying of the skin models)
drying of skin models under laminar flow without plate-cover
topical application of testsubstances and incubation in
CO2-incubator for 1h
4 h 8 h6 h
a. analysis of viability (MTT);b. histology of skin models
Purpose of the study: Exploration of the physical effect (water-binding capacity) of cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid on dried epidermal skin models.
Model: SkinEthic reconstructed human epidermis
Back #7
Consumer Specialties | 18/04/23 Page | 24
In vivo evaluation – Test formulation
MM151/2 MM151/6
A TEGO® Care 450(Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate)
3.0 % 3.0 %
TEGIN® M Pellets(Glyceryl Stearate)
2.0 % 2.0 %
TEGO® Alkanol 18(Stearyl Alcohol)
1.0 % 1.0 %
TEGOSOFT® OS(Ethylhexyl Stearate)
9.5 % 9.5 %
TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
9.5 % 9.5 %
Methylisothiazolinone, Methyl and Ethyl Parabens(Microcare MEM)
0.8 % 0.8 %
HyaCare® 0.1 %
HyaCare® Filler CL 2.5 %
Water 74.1 % 71.7 %
Back #10