silver liningTHE AMERICAN DREAM IS THRIVING AT SILVER’S, A SOUTHAMPTON MAINSTAY SINCE 1923. BY MATTHEW WEXLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIC STRIFFLER
CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: Fresh Burrata and basil with red ripe tomatoes; alfresco
dining at Silver’s; Garrett Wellins is Silver’s third-generation chef/owner.
There was a time when you could buy an authentic Cuban cigar at
Silver’s, now one of Southampton’s most nostalgic and notable res-
taurants. Years later you might find military fatigues, British
woolens, or electronics. Today, you’re more apt to indulge in that East End
classic, a lobster roll (with 21st-century prices), and a glass of rosé.
Manning the kitchen (and the front of house and everywhere in between)
is Garrett Wellins, third-generation owner of
the quaint bistro that sits idyllically tucked
away on Main Street’s south end. Wellins, a
good-humored multitasker who could start a
side career as a double for Garry Shandling,
has been in the business since he was 8 years
old. With a smirk, he says his dad told him,
“Come to work or I’ll kill you.” He’s been
there ever since. While Wellins started by
doing small chores like stocking candy and magazines, his role evolved as
Silver’s continued to reinvent itself through the years.
The restaurant’s well-polished history dates back to 1923, when Wellins’s
great-aunt and her husband established themselves in Southampton as
tailors for Bergdorf Goodman. They encouraged his grandparents, who
had been operating a not-so-successful cigar store in New Jersey, to move
the operation to the East End. Silver’s Cigar
Store was incorporated and flourished for
the next 40 years as the local smoke shop, at
one point carrying more than 500 interna-
tional newspaper and magazine titles. Upon
entering the restaurant, the original humi-
dor still stands proud, but it is also a
reminder that the American Dream can
continued on page 66
“ Silver’s was a modest menu, but my dad was eager to survive and looking to create something more unique.”
—GARRETT WELLINS
CE
LEBRATING
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ABOVE: The lobster roll at Silver's is served with a mound of tail meat atop an Eli Zabar brioche bun. BELOW: The lemon tart is a favorite sweet treat at Silver's.
continued from page 64
SOME THINGS NEVER CHANGE You might think that Silver’s vintage 1911 NCR cash register is
an heirloom dating back to the store’s original inception. Not
so. Wellins bought the antique several years back, thinking it
would add a touch of nostalgia to the restaurant. The
maximum the till can ring up is $69.95, which should be
enough to keep the price of that lobster roll in check.
sometimes have a rude awakening.
The lethal combination of the New York City newspaper strike (1962),
the New York City transit strike (1966), and the relocation of the local post
office caused what Wellins refers to as a “mercantile vacuum” on Main
Street, and his father was forced to rethink the business model or close up
shop. He spent his last $5,000 to purchase a secondhand soda fountain and
Silver’s was—once again—reborn. “It was a modest menu, my dad had no
formal training,” recalls Wellins, “but he was eager to survive and looking
to create something unique.”
The historic building, which dates back
more than 100 years, reveals black and
white linoleum floors, a bar made from
a thick slab of marble, finely polished
brass fixtures, and cream-colored walls
that hold not Norman Rockwells, but
original paintings by Wellins’s mother,
Bess Silver. Trained as a dancer, Wellins’s
mom “always had some kind of art thing
going,” he says. “She was a draftsman dur-
ing World War II and eventually studied
at the Corcoran College of Art & Design
in Washington, DC.” The paintings of
dancers and nearby estates (which can be
purchased for the right price) add another
layer of local flavor to the restaurant, but it
is the fresh, European-inspired menu that
keeps customers coming back.
“I did most of the grunt work when we
went into the food business,” says Wellins
of his culinary training. “I worked with a continued on page 68
lot of good chefs and did some catering. I got interested in French pâtis-
serie. The menu evolved simply, but we put a European spin on it. My
family is of Russian heritage, so we have borscht on the menu. When we
arrived in Southampton we were some of the few ‘Red Sea’ pedestrians” (a
reference from Monty Python’s Life of Brian).
The menu relies on fresh, simply prepared ingredients, and the price
point doesn’t shy away from the fact that Silver’s
uses only the best. Carb-free din-
ers beware: an irresistible chunk
of warm, toasty bread will arrive,
drenched in fruity olive oil and
spiked with garlic and fresh pars-
ley. You will not be able to resist
it and with good cause. It’s the
perfect accompaniment to creamy
Burrata, basil, and tomato. This
alone could be lunch, but then you’d
be missing out on the restaurant’s
signature seafood dishes. The lobster
roll may carry a hefty price tag, but
the heaping mound of tail meat on an
Eli Zabar brioche bun ($40), lightly
dressed with mayonnaise and chopped
Silver's menu has evolved from modest beginnings to more
sophisticated lunch offerings.66 HAMPTONS-MAGAZINE.COM
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The artwork in the restaurant is by owner Garrett Wellins's
mother, Bess Silver.
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celery, is worth its weight. The crabmeat cakes
are baked instead of fried and served with a
Thai chili aioli and organic greens. Wellins
sources his seafood from The Braun Seafood
Company, which has been purveying fresh
catches since 1928. The rest of the menu pays
homage to European influences with dishes
such as a “French Picnic” of savory country
pâté, Brie, and accoutrements; roasted duck leg
confit; and salade d’ anjou, served with English
Stilton and French walnut oil.
Open only for lunch (Wellins says he served
dinner for 13 years and that was enough), Silver’s
can be a tough table to land during high season.
Weather permitting, head straight through the
main dining room for the back patio, where you
can dine alfresco under the shade of an enor-
mous canopied umbrella. “We’ve had the same
customers for more than 40 years—some famous
and some not so famous,” says Wellins, who is
tight-lipped when it comes to naming names.
“They were young adults who now have grand-
children. I take things seriously, and they trust
me to do the right thing.”
While you may see his own children—Ryan,
Patrick, and Mollie—working a lunch shift,
Wellins isn’t convinced that Silver’s will remain
a family legacy. “I hope it doesn’t come to the
point where somebody comes in and [finds me]
face down in a bowl of borscht.” 15 Main St.,
Southampton, 283-6443; silversrestaurant.com H
Bostwick’s Chowder HouseIf you are in the mood for fresh,
local seafood, but don’t want to
head further east than Amagansett,
Bostwick’s has all of your favorites,
including lobster, steamers, and many
types of local fish. The lobster roll is
outstanding, and for lighter fare, try
the Caesar salad with grilled shrimp.
277 Pantigo Road, East Hampton, 324-
1111; bostwickschowderhouse.com
East Hampton Golf ClubFind a friend who is a member to take
you. The clubhouse is magnificent, and
the restaurant's salads, sandwiches,
and pizzas are just as good.
281 Abraham’s Path, East Hampton,
324-7007; ehgc.com
Fairway Restaurant at Poxabogue Golf CenterDanny, the owner, is always there
with a smile and a menu—not that
you need it. The chicken salad in
pita is outstanding, or if you can
handle the calories, go for the tuna
melt. This place is a Hamptons classic.
3556 Montauk Hwy., Wainscott, 521-7100
power lunch at the beachLOEWS HOTELS & RESORTS’ CHAIRMAN AND ULTIMATE AUTHORITY ON LUXURY HOSPITALITY JONATHAN TISCH TELLS US THE TOP TABLES HE BOOKS FOR A MIDDAY MEAL.
continued from page 66
continued on page 70
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Loews Chairman Jonathan Tisch weighs in on his favorite lunch bites like pizza from Sam's Bar & Restaurant, lobster roll at Bostwick's Chowder House, and the burger at Rowdy Hall.
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