Anatomy of a
Glacier
MoatMoat
BergschrundBergschrund
Firn line
Firn line
Terminus
Terminus
Terminal moraine
Terminal moraine
Medial Moraine
Medial Moraine
Lat
eral
Mor
aine
Lat
eral
Mor
aine
Gear• Everything for above treeline
travel, plus…
• Rope
• Harness
• Helmet
• Prusiks
• Anchors
• Slings
• Belay device
• Carabiners
• Wands
Route Finding
• Avoid Likely Crevasse Locations
• Avoid Potential Pendulum Falls (keep the rope perpendicular to crevasses)
• Wand you way
• Probe camp area
• Belay climbers in an out of camp
Team Rescue
• Set anchor– Snow picket– Fluke– Deadman– Bollard
• Self-belay to edge• Check on climber• Pad lip
Team Rescue
• Brute Force (Only with lots of haulers)
• Single Pulley (2-to-1 advantage)
• Z-Pulley (3-to-1 advantage)
• Other systems (x-to-1 advantage)