Thebravenew worldoffashion
i n t r o d u c t i o nThis fash ion po r t fo l i o a ims to d i scove r a t rend tha t has been on the marke t th i s l as t sea-son : au tumn/w in te r 2009. The t rend i s en t i t l ed “The B rave New Wor ld o f Fash ion ” by t rend ex-pe r t Dav id Wo l fe f rom The Doneger Group.Th is po r t fo l i o w i l l exam ine th i s t rend on seve ra l l eve l s , such as Hau te Cou tu re , P rê t -a -Po r te r (Ready to Wear ) and s t reet s ty le . I t w i l l a lso showcase insp i ra t ion boards fo r th is t rend and descr ip t ions th roughout the por t fo l io . The theme o f th i s f ash ion po r t fo l i o i s cen t red a round space , the un i ve rse and s ta rs as these re f l ec t the bes t the idea o f someth ing NEW ( th i s t rend ) w i th in someth ing EX IST ING ( f ash ion ) , and a re the mos t re -l a ted to f ash ion wh ich i s cyc l i ca l , p resen ts cons tan t changes , and have a h igh l eve l o f e f fec t on soc ie t y .
c o n t e n t s
Inspiration Boards
Glamorous Depression 80’s on full power
Fashion
Haute Couture Ready to WearHungarian Designers
Own InterpretationAccesories
G l a m o r o u s D e p r e s s i o n
T h e g r e a t d e p r e s s i o n r e f e r s t o t h e b r e a k d o w n o f t h e U S
e c o n o m i c s y s t e m . I t s t a r t e d w i t h t h e “ b l a c k F r i d a y ” i n 1 9 2 9
a n d l a s t e d a r o u n d a d e c a d e . R e c o v e r f r o m t h i s s i t u a t i o n
c a m e b y t h e S e c o n d W o r l d W a r a n d t h e 4 0 ’ s . P e o p l e i n t h i s
b a d , d e p r e s s i n g s i t u a t i o n w e r e s t u c k o n TV a n d t h e o l d H o l -
l y w o o d g l a m o u r w a s b o r n . O r d i n a r y p e o p l e w e r e i n s p i r e d
a n d m o t i v a t e d b y H o l l y w o o d a c t r e s s e s a n d n e w Y o r k s o -
c i a l i t e s s u c h a s K a t h e r i n e H e p b u r n o r L u c i e n L e l o n g ’ s w i f e
N a t a l i a P a l e y . B e a u t i f u l l o v e s t o r i e s o f t h e 3 0 ’ s a n d 4 0 ’ s
H o l l y w o o d s w e p t t h e w h o l e w o r l d . T h e s e y e a r s w e r e f i l l e d
w i t h l o n g b i a s c u t d r e s s e s , d r a p e d s i l k a n d s a t i n m a t e r i a l s
w i t h a s o p h i s t i c a t e d a t t i t u d e . b i g n a m e s i n f a s h i o n : C h a -
n e l , E l s a S c h i a p a r e l l i , L u c i e n L e l o n g , M a d e l a i n e V i o n n e t .
T h e E i g h t i e s o n F u l l P o w e r
F a s h i o n i n t h e 8 0 s u g g e s t e d m o r e t h a n o n e t r e n d s .
W e a r e l o o k i n g t o d e s c r i b e t h e “ w o r k i n g G i r l ” t r e n d .
T h i s t r e n d w a s a l l a b o u t b i g s h o u l d e r s , s m a l l w a i s t ,
s u i t s f o r w o m e n . T V s h o w s w e r e t h e b i g g e s t i n -
s p i r a t i o n f o r t h e o r d i n a r y w o m e n s u c h a s D a l l a s
a n d T h e D y n a s t y . T h e d y n a s t y w a s o n e o f t h e b i g -
g e s t P r o d u c e d T V s h o w s e v e r a s p r o d u c e r s r e c -
o g n i z e d t h e i m p o r t a n c e o f f a s h i o n i n s e r i e s . T h e y
o b s e r v e d t h a t m a n y w o m e n w e r e i n s p i r e d b y t h e m
s o s t y l i n g b e c a m e t h e e s s e n t i a l p a r t o f t h e s h o w .
L a d y D i a n a , J o a n C o l l i n s , M a r g a r e t T h a t c h e r a n d
t h e W o r k i n g G i r l M o v i e w e r e a l s o v e r y i n s p i r a t i o n -
a l a t t h e t i m e a n d a l s o n o w w h i l e l o o k i n g b a c k .
W e a r e a b l e t o s p o t t h e t r e n d i n H a u t e C o u t u r e C o l l e c t i o n s o f t h e P a r i s r u n w a y . M a n y o f t h e m u s e d t h e 8 0 ’ S w o r k i n g g i r l i m a g e a n d t h e s o -p h i s t i c a t i o n o f t h e 1 9 3 0 ’ s a s i n s p i -r a t i o n . W e c a n s e e m a n y a c c e n t u a t -e d s h o u l d e r s o n s u i t s a n d d r e s s e s . M a t e r i a l s t h a t w e r e m a i n l y u s e d a r e l e a t h e r , f u r , f e a t h e r s a n d s h e e r / s e e t h r o u g h f a b r i c s . D r e s s e s a r e l o n g , t r o u s e r s a r e w i d e l e g g e d , s h o u l d e r s a r e a c c e n t u a t e d , t h e c o l o u r i s b l a c k a n d t h e s k i n i s n o t e x p l i c i t e l y s h o w n .
A l e x i s M a b i l l e
A r m a n i P r i v é G i v e n c h y
V a l e n t i n o
V a l e n t i n o
C h a n e l
J e a n - P a u lG a u l t h i e r
T h e t r e n d w e a r e a i m i n g t o i l l u s t r a t e i s a m i x t u r e o f t h e “ O l d H o l l y w o o d G l a m o u r ” a n d t h e e i g h t i e s “ W o r k i n g G i r l ” a t t i t u d e . T h e m a i n c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f t h i s s t y l e i s a s o -p h i s t i c a t e d g r o w n u p a t t i t u d e . T h e i n t e r p r e t a t i o n o f t h i s t r e n d o n t h e r u n w a y f e a t u r e d m a n y s e e t h r o u g h g a r -m e n t s . T h e u s e o f m a t e r i a l s t h a t c a n c o v e r u p t h e w h o l e b o d y w h i l e a l s o n o t c o v e r i n g i t w a s v e r y p o p u l a r a n d w a s p r e s e n t a t m a n y o f t h e s h o w s a t t h e N e w Y o r k , L o n -d o n , M i l a n a n d P a r i s r u n w a y s b o t h a t H a u t e C o u t u r e a n d P r ê t á P o r t e r . T h e m a s s i v e a p p e a r a n c e o f t h e v e l v e t , f u r a n d l e a t h e r i s a l s o n o t i c e a b l e . M a n y d e s i g n e r s u s e d t h e m a s p a r t o f t h e i r c o l l e c t i o n s t o c r e a t e t h e f a b u l o u s l o o k r e m i n i s c e n t o f t h e 3 0 ’ s a n d a l s o t h e 8 0 ’ s b y c r e a t -i n g w i d e s h o u l d e r s a n d e l e g a n t , l o n g f e m i n i n e d r e s s e s . V e l v e t c l o t h e s w e r e u s u a l l y l o n g a n d c o v e r e d u p m o s t o f t h e b o d y . D e s i g n e r s u s e d f u r i n m a n y u n u s u a l w a y s s u c h a s f u r t o p s , c a r d i g a n s a n d s n o o d s ( n e w o n t h e r u n w a y t h i s s e a s o n ) . F u r c o a t s w e r e u s e d i n c o l o r s a n d s h a p e s t h a t a r e r e m i n i s c e n t o f t h e 8 0 ’ s a s t h e y a r e u s u a l l y s h o r t b u t a t t h e s a m e t i m e g i v e a g l a m o r o u s o u t l o o k . L e a t h e r w a s u s e d a l s o i n l o n g s l e e v e d d r e s s e s , g l o v e s , t h i g h h i g h b o o t s , s k i r t s a n d t h e y w e r e e i t h e r q u i l t e d o r c u t a n d d r a p e d i n i n t e r e s t i n g w a y s . T h e y h a v e w i d e s h o u l d e r s , l o n g s l e e v e s a n d a r e l o o s e f i t t e d . S h o e s w e r e o f t e n t h i g h h i g h b o o t s o r a n k l e b o o t s a n d a l o t o f t h e m w i t h p l a t f o r m s o l e s . T o s u m m a r i z e t h e t r e n d : d r e s s e s a r e l o n g e r , s h o u l d e r s a r e w i d e r , a t t i t u d e i s m o r e s o p h i s t i c a t e d w i t h g a r m e n t s t h a t c o v e r u p t h e w h o l e b o d y n o w , a n d a r e o f s e v e r a l l a y e r s . T h e m a i n c o l o r i s b l a c k . T h e “ I T ” b a g i s o v e r ; t h e m a i n f o c u s o f f a s h i o n i s t a s i s n o w o n b o l d j e w e l r y a n d c r a z y s h o e s .
A c c e n t u a t e dS h o u l d e r s
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H u n g a r i a n f a s h i o n D e s i g nThe designers featured in this portfolio are the biggest names amongst the young in hungary. Kata szegedi is the best up and com-ing Hunagrian designer (won the prize), Dora Abodi is beginning to get known in the USA, and recently even style Bubble has had a post about her creations. she has been invited to a off schedule new york fashion show where she presented her collection in font of industry people, and received great reviews. Use Unused is a formation of designer, they are the oldest and most established amongst the yung designers. Dora Mojzes is a young designer as well who graduated from MOME, Budapests Arts University and she is also getting to experinece international recognition. and the last designer is Nanushka. She is hungarian as well but she hd graduated at LCF. her collections are very relaxed, almost even sporty. her inspiration for this collection was the partly the eighties. web pages: www.kataszegedi.com, www.doraabodi.com, www.use.co.hu, www.doramojzes.com and www.nanushka.com.
Kat
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Dor
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bold accessoriesCha
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mar
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John
Gal
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ban
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G l o v e sA
rman
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Ash
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Mic
hael
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C r a z y S h o e sB
CB
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Cav
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Ant
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Ber
ard
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These clothes are my own designs. The first one is a lace ensemble and the second one is a black see through jumper with a huge
necklace (necklace is designed by dora, a fashion student). They convey the ideas of the “Brave New world of Fashion” trend, they
are black, they are sleek and look sophisticated. These are my interpretations of the all black trend.
There are a lways several t rends on the catwalk every season. From this last A/W 09 season the Doneger Group spotted a t rend that they ent i t led the brave new wor ld of fashion. The trend is new as there are many changes such as heml ines dropped, meaning that sk i r t and dresses are beginning to get longer, new mate-r ia ls are used, and the attent ion is on new i tems l ike shoes and accessor ies/ jewel lery instead of the “ IT” bag. The port fo l io shows that in th is t rend ( that is remi-niscent of the 80’s working gi r l and the 30’s Hol ly-wood glamour) how many sub trends, aside of shapes and si lhouettes, are present such as mater ia ls and accessor ies. Every c lothes featured in the port fo-l io is a part of th is t rend, but are grouped under di f-ferent themes, such as mater ia l and garment type.
c o n c l u s i o n
b i b l i o g r a p h y a n d r e f e r e n c e s
Images:Runway images for international designers: www.catwalking.comfor hungarian designers: their own webpages: www.kataszegedi.com, www.doraabodi.com,www.use.co.hu, www.doramojzes.com and www.nanushka.cominspiration board images: googlebackground images: www.sxc.hu
Text:Homepages of fashion houses, google research about decades.