CONSUMERS’CHOICES TOWARDSECO-FASHION
ACasestudyofG-Star’sRawfortheOceanCampaign
jitskenap(432574)[email protected]
MasterThesis(CulturalEconomics&Entrepreneurship)ErasmusUniversityRotterdam
Supervisor:dr.MariangelaLavanga.
June2017.
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Inhoudsopgave
Abstract 5
Introduction 6
I.Sustainabilityinthefashionindustry 9
1.1Creativeindustries 9
1.2Sustainabilityandgatekeepers 9
1.3Increasingconsumption 10
1.4ConsumersAttitudetowardsSustainableFashion 11
1.5Highinvolvementgoods 13
II.Marketingfashionandsustainability 14
2.1Marketing 14
2.2Greenmarketing 15
2.3Greenmarketingimpact 15
2.4Greenmarketingtechniques 16
III.Consumers’choices 17
3.1Decision-making 17
3.2Influencingfactors 18
3.2.1Personalattributes 19
3.2.2Fashioninvolvement 19
3.2.3Environmentalinvolvement 20
3.2.4Eco-fashioninvolvement 20
3.2.5Brandinvolvement 21
3.2.6Campaigninvolvementandeffects 21
IV.Casestudy:G-StarandRawfortheOcean 23
4.1G-Star 23
4.2TheG-Starfashionconsumer 25
4.3RawfortheOcean 25
4.4TheRawfortheOceanmarketingcampaign 26
V.Methodology 28
5.1.Datacollectionandsample 28
5.2Surveyvariables 29
5.2.1Involvementvariables 35
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5.3Hypothesisdevelopment 37
5.3.1Environmental,eco-fashion,andfashioninvolvement 37
5.3.2Brandinvolvement 38
5.4Researchmodels 39
5.4.1Model1:Attitudeandbehavior 40
5.4.2Model2:Eco-fashionattitude/involvementandBrandattitude 43
5.4.3Model3:CampaignAttitude 45
5.5ValidityandReliability 47
VI.Results 48
6.1Descriptivestatistics 48
6.1.1Demographics 49
6.1.2Fashioninvolvement 51
6.1.3Environmentalinvolvement 53
6.1.4Eco-fashioninvolvement 55
6.1.5Brandinvolvement 58
6.1.6Campaigninvolvement 59
6.1.7Campaigneffect 60
6.2Model1:AttitudeandBehavior 62
6.2.1Fashionattitudeandfashionbehavior 62
6.2.2environmentalattitudeandenvironmentalbehavior 63
6.2.3Eco-fashionattitudeandeco-fashionbehavior 64
6.2.4Willingnesstopayforsustainablejeans. 64
6.2.5Brandattitudeandbrandbehavior 66
6.3Environmentalattitudevseco-fashionattitude 66
6.4Model2Eco-fashionattitudeandinvolvement 67
6.4.1:Eco-fashionattitude 67
6.3.2Eco-fashioninvolvement 68
6.4.3Brandattitude 70
6.5Model3:Campaigninvolvement 70
VIIDiscussion&Conclusion 71
7.1Summary 71
7.2Researchquestions 72
7.3Conclusions 75
7.4Limitations 77
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7.5RecommendationsforFutureResearchandthefashionindustry 78
References 80
ApendixI 85
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Abstract
Thisstudyaimstoresearchwhichfactorsaffectconsumers’choicesregardingeco-fashion.
Inordertoresearchthesefactors,G-Star’sgreenfashionmarketingcampaignRawforthe
Oceanwasusedasacasestudy.Thisresearchtooktheformofasurveyexecutedamong
millennialslivingintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016.Thetimeframe
reflectstheperiodthatthecampaignwasrunning.Thesamplewascollectedbysnowball
samplinginonlinespacesandrandomselectiononthestreetsofAmsterdam.Threemodels
wereusedtoforthisstudy,whicharetheattitude-behaviormodel,theeco-fashion
involvementmodelandthecampaigninvolvementmodel.Furthermore,wasstudiedifthe
campaignhadchangedconsumer’sattitudeandbehaviorregardingthebrand,
environmentalsustainabilityandeco-fashion.Accordingtotheresultsaffectedconsumers’
gender,age,fashionattitude/involvement,environmentalattitude/involvementandeco-
fashionattitudeconsumers’eco-fashionchoices.Olderconsumerswithinthemillennial
generation,makemorepositivechoicesregardingeco-fashionthanyoungerconsumers
withingeneration.Femalesfindeco-fashionmoreimportantandaremoreeco-fashion
involvedthanmen.Furthermore,hasahighscoreregardingenvironmentalattitude/
involvement,fashionattitude/involvementandeco-fashionattitudeapositiveeffectoneco-
fashionchoices.
Keywords:sustainability,attitude,behavior,involvement,effect,fashion,
environment,eco-fashion,brand,marketing,campaign,G-Star,RawfortheOcean.
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Introduction
Thepastyearshaveseenanincreaseinsustainabilityawarenessinthefashionindustry,as
evidencedbytheemergenceofsustainableinitiatives,suchastheDutchgovernment’s
textilecovenant,Greenpeace’sfashiondetoxcampaign,andtheSustainableBrandIndex.In
addition,largeretailersandbrands,suchasH&MandG-Star,havestartedtoincorporate
sustainabilityintotheirbusinessmodels,marketingstrategies,andadvertisingcampaigns.
Mediaattentiononbothsustainabilityingeneralandglobalwarminginparticularseemsto
beontherise(Schmidtetal.,2013).Theheightenedemphasisonsustainabilityinthe
fashionindustrymighthavestemmedfromtheoverallincreasedattentiononsustainability
issuesorfromthemajorscandalsthathaveappearedinthemediainrecentyears.Brands
havebeenblamedfortheirinhumanworkingconditions,theridiculouslylowsalaries
providedtoworkers,andenvironmentalcontaminationcausedbytheintensiveuseof
chemicalsandnaturalresourcesduringtheclothingproductionprocess(Caniatoetal.,
2011).
Thesearchforlessexpensiveproductionmethodshasresultedinproductiontaking
placeintheFarEast,withtransport-relatedenergyconsumptionandemissionissuesone
consequenceofthatshift(Caniatoetal.,2011).Clothingproductionandtransportation
causesenvironmentaldamage,whileusedclothinggeneratesanenormousamountof
waste.Asaresultofthesescandals,thepublichascalledonthefashionindustrytobemore
responsible,changeitspractices,andengageinopencommunicationaboutthistopic
(Gauld,2014).However,thisiseasiersaidthandone.Thefashionindustryencompasses
manydifferentstakeholders,includingbrands,fabricproducers,manufacturers,consumers,
journalists,publicrelationsgents,andadvertisingagencies(Caniatoetal,2010).Theclothing
industryisclearlyaninefficientsector:Asmallnumberofpeopletakeadvantageofthe
opportunities,whileothersareworseoff(Kruggman&Wells,2006).Inaddition,when
sustainablyproducedgarmentsareonlywornafewtimesbeforebeingdiscarded,they
becomeunsustainable(Jung&Jin,2014).Toachievesustainability,theconsumermust
contributetotheproduct’slifecyclefromthemomentofpurchaseuntilthemomentof
disposal.Severalhavestartedtorecognizetheirleadingroleandtoincorporate
sustainabilityconcernsintotheirbusinessmodels.
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TheDutchjeansbrand,G-Star,forexample,introducedthelineRawfortheOcean,which
featuresnewjeanscreatedfromplasticbottlescollectedatsea.G-Starcarriesoutthis
projectincollaborationwithBionicYarn,acompanythatcreatesyarnfromplasticbottles.
Recyclingplasticbottlesresultsinnotonlycleaneroceansbutalsonewproducts.This
approachfitswithThorby’s(2005)strongandweaksustainabilitymodels:“TheStrong
sustainabilitymodelentailsthatnaturalcapitalasbeingstrictlynon-substitutablefor
human-madecapital,aviewderivinginpartfromtheuniquelife-supportingpropertiesof
globalair,landandwatersystems.”Cleaningtheoceansisnecessarybecausethereisno
substituteforthesea,andhumansshouldcarryoutsuchactionstopreventitfrombeing
damaged.Inaddition,G-Starofferedahumansubstituteforthegarbageintheoceans,since
“itistheaggregatecapitalstockthatmattersandnothowitiscomprised”(p.6).Cleaning
theoceansfunctionsasacompromise.Furthermore,themarketingcampaignpromotingthe
G-Starprojectinformsconsumersaboutanenvironmentalproblemandencouragesthemto
actuponit.Thisstudy’sprimaryresearchquestionis:
Whatarethefactorsthataffectconsumers’choicesregardingeco-fashion?
Toanswerthisresearchquestion,thisstudyusedG-Star’sRawfortheOcean
campaignasacasestudy.Thisquantitativeresearchstudyprojecttooktheformofasurvey
executedamongmillennialslivingintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016.
Millennialsareagenerationbornbetween1977and2000(Smith,2010).Thistimeframe
reflectstheperiodthatthecampaignwasrunning.Thesamplewascollectedbysnowball
samplinginonlinespaceswheremillennialsgatherandviaasimplerandomselectionof
peopleonthestreetsinAmsterdam.Theplaceswherethepeopleareselectedrandomly
selectedintheareaofthethreeG-Starstores.Otherspaceswherepeoplearerandomly
selectedarehighschoolsanduniversities.
Accordingtotheliterature,agreenfashionmarketingcampaign’seffectona
consumerdependsonseveralindividualattributes,suchasthatperson’sdemographics,
fashioninvolvement,sustainabilityinvolvement,brandinvolvementandcampaign
involvement.However,thereisonlyanissuewiththesustainabilityinvolvement.Several
studieshaveclaimedthatsustainablefashionconsciousnessandsustainableconsciousness
inothersectorsarenotthesameandconsumerswhoaresustainableconsciousdonothave
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besustainablefashionconscious(Chan&Wong,2012).Therefore,hasthisresearchdivided
thefactorsustainableinvolvementintotwoseparatefactors:environmentalinvolvement
andeco-fashioninvolvement.Inaddition,involvementisalsodefinedbyotherfactors,
whichareaconsumer’sattitudeandbehavior.Importantly,theliteratureclaimsthatthese
attributesinfluenceeachother.Forexample,one’senvironmentalinvolvementaffectsone’s
eco-fashioninvolvement.Furthermore,agreenmarketingcampaignitselfcanincreasea
person’senvironmental,eco-fashion,andbrandinvolvementscore.Basedonthese
influencingfactors,thefollowingsub-questionswereformulated:
Sub-questions:
1. Towhatextenddifferconsumer’senvironmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitude
fromeachother?
2. Towhatextentdoconsumers’demographics,fashionattitudeandenvironmental
attitudeaffecttheireco-fashionattitude?
3. Towhatextentdoconsumers’demographics,fashioninvolvementandenvironmental
involvementaffecttheireco-fashioninvolvement?
4. Towhatextentdoesaconsumer’sattitudeinfluencehisorherbehavior?
5. Towhatextentdoesconsumers’fashionattitudeaffecttheirbrandattitudetowards
G-Star?
6. Towhatextentdoconsumers’environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitude,and
brandattitudeaffectthecampaignattitude?
7. Towhatextentchangedthecampaignconsumers’brandattitude,environmentaland
eco-fashionattitudeandbehavior?
Thisthesisisstructuredasfollows:Thefirstchapterintroducesthesubjectof
sustainabilityinthefashionindustryandotherrelatedissues.Thesecondchapterdiscusses
fashionmarketingandgreenfashionmarketing.Thethirdchapterprovidesinsightinto
consumers’purchase-relateddecision-makingprocessesandoutlinesthosefactorsthat
previousresearchhasindicatedcaninfluencesuchchoices.Thefourthchapterprovides
informationonG-StarandtheRawfortheOceancasestudy.Thefifthchapterdetailsthe
methodology,includingthesamplingapproach,datacollectionprocedures,hypotheses,
researchmodels,theoperationalizationofthevariables,andtheresearch’svalidityand
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reliability.Thesixthchapterprovidestheresultsgeneratedbytheseanalyses.Theseventh
chapterconcludesthethesisanddiscussesthestudy’slimitationsandthescopeforfurther
research.
I.Sustainabilityinthefashionindustry
Thischapterprovidesinsightsintothefashionindustryanditsrelationshipwith
sustainability.Thefirstsectiondiscussesthethecharacteristicsofthecreativeindustriesand
therelationofthefashionindustrytowardsit.Thesecondpartelaboratesconceptof
sustainabilityinthefashionindustryandtheandtherolebrandasagatekeeperfor
promotingsustainablefashion.Thethirdpartdiscussestheproblemofoverconsumption.
Thefourthpartprovidesinsightinconsumer’sattitudeandbehaviortowardssustainability.
Thelastpartdiscussesfashionasanhighinvolvementgoodandwhatthatentailsforthe
relationshipwiththeconsumer.
1.1Creativeindustries
Tounderstandissuesregardingsustainabilityinthefashionindustry,itisimportanttofirst
definewhatdistinguishesthatsectorfromotherindustries.Thefashionindustryispartof
thelargerculturalindustry,whichhasbeendefinedas“consistingoffirmsthatmass-
producegoodsandserviceswithsufficientartisticcontenttobeconsideredcreativeand
culturallysignificant.Theessentialfeaturesarethecombinationofindustrial-scale
productionwithcreativecontent”(Towse,2001,p.125).Anotherattributewhatmakesthe
culturalindustriesdifferentare“theeconomiccharacteristicsofculturalcontentproduction
or‘creativity”(Towse,2001,p.127).Creativeindustriessharefeatureswithother
informationknowledgeandinformationgoodsproducers:highfixedcostsforproducingthe
originalmastercopyandaverylowmarginalcostofmakingfurtherreplicas.Inthefashion
industry,theselowmarginalcostsareachievedbyofferinglowwagesinthird-world
countries.Whenitcomestosustainablefashionproduction,theselowmarginalcostsare
themainproblemcreatorsthatstimulatesoverconsumption.
1.2Sustainabilityandgatekeepers
In1987,theUnitedNationsclaimedthatsustainabilityistheabilitytosatisfycurrentneeds
withoutcompromisingfuturegenerations’requirements(Caniatoetal.,2010).Amore
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recentstudybyBansal(2002)hasarguedthatsustainabilityconcernstherelationshipamong
threeprinciples:economicgrowth,socialequity,andrespectfortheenvironment.Economic
growthrequiresanadequateuseofresources,sothatindividualscanmaintainareasonable
standardoflivingwhileavoidingsocialharmandenvironmentaldamage.
Inordertoachievesustainabilityinthefashionindustry,keysustainabilitystrategies
includetheuseoforganicfibers,there-useandrecyclingofmaterials,vintageorsecond-
handpractices,andcleanerproductiontechnologies(Caniatoetal.,2011).However,whenit
comestobringingaboutarealchangeinthefashionindustry,thesepracticesseem
ineffectiveandinsufficient.Thereasonforthesedifficultiesisthebroadrangeofglobal
stakeholdersinvolved,andtheseincludesuppliers(e.g.,fibers,machinery,andchemicals),
manufacturers(e.g.,clothingandtextiles),retailers,fashionbureaus,post-consumeractors
operatinginthesecond-handmarket,independentexperts,andserviceproviders.To
achieverealchange,allparticipantshavetocontribute,fromclothingproducerstoclothing
consumers(Caniatoetal,2010).
Manyofthesestakeholdersfunctionasgatekeepers.Gatekeepingisaninterim
processthattakesplacewithintheproductionchainandeffectivelydeterminesthenature
oftheculturalsupply.Firmsincreativeindustriesperformthetaskofselectingitemsto
produceandmarketfromanabundant(evenexcess)supplyofcreativecontent,and
thereforetheydecidewhatculturalgoodsandservicesareofferedtoconsumers”(Thorsby,
2001,p.129).AccordingtoLeeetal.(2012),retailersandbrandsalsoplayanessentialrole
asgatekeeperswhenitcomestoencouragingconsumerstoengageineco-friendlybehavior.
Theyhaveclaimedthat“asretailersencourageconsumptionofgreenproductsand
discourageconsumptionofnon-greenproductsthroughgreenretailing,theydirectly
influenceconsumerattitudeandbehavior”(p.68).Thestrengthoftheimpactonattitude
andbehaviordependson“howtheconsumersperceivegreenretailactivities”.(Leeetal.,
2012,p.69).FollowingLeeetal.(2012)claimsthat“greenretailingbyfashionretailersand
brandsmayhaveastronginfluenceonintroducingconsumptionofgreenproductsif
consumersperceivehighvaluesfromtheretailers’activities”(p.69)
1.3Increasingconsumption
Inthepartregardingculturalindustriesisstatedthatthelowmarginalcostsincrease
overconsumption.Theissueregardingoverconsumptionisthatitusesupallthenatural
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recourses.Ontheplanetthereare“3.8billion-year-oldreservesofnaturalcapital”.The
increaseinconsumptionanduseofalargeamountofnaturalrecourcesstartedinthethe
mid-eighteenthcentury.Fromthenon“moreofnaturehasbeendestroyedthaninallprior
history”.Anexampleofthenature’sdestructionduetotheincreaseinconsumptionisthata
thirdoftheforestcoverwasstrippedoverthelast50years"(Chapman,2009,p.35)
Inadditiontothisincreaseinconsumption,productlifespanshavealsodeclined:"Neither
brokennordysfunctional,theseorphanshavebeencastasidebeforetheirtimetomakeway
fornewer,youngermodelsinanadulterousswingwecallconsumerism"(Chapman,2009,p.
35).Thismodelofintenseconsumptionandshortproductlifespansisespeciallyapplicable
tothefashionindustry,whereconsumptionisstimulatedbyrapidlychangingtrends.Inthe
past,designersproduced2collectionsperyear;theynowrelease12collectionsayear.
Inanidealworld,peoplewouldpurchasefewerproductsandusethemforalonger
periodoftime.Accordingtothecycleassessment(LCA),“extendinggarments’activelifevia
design,maintenance,andre-useofclothingisthemosteffectivemethodofreducingthe
impactoftheclothingindustryontheenvironment.Extendingtheaveragelifeofclothesby
threemonths’usageperitemwouldreducecarbon,water,andwastefootprintsby5-10%,
thusleadingtosavingsofbillionsofpoundsforproducersandconsumers"(McLarenetal.,
2016,p.1).Inthefashionindustry,suchanapproachwouldincludepurchasingfewerhigh-
qualityproductsforahigherprice.However,"thefashionbusinessclearlythriveson
innovationandthecreationofobsolescence,thusappearingtobeincompatiblewiththe
notionofkeepingclothesforanextendedperiodoftime"(McLarenetal.,2016,p.1).The
contradictioninthefashionindustryleadstotherelevanceofexaminingconsumers’
purchasedecisionsandattitudestowardsethicalandsustainableclothing.Ifconsumerscan
betriggeredtochangetheirbehavior,companieswouldbeforcedtochangetheirpractices.
1.4ConsumersAttitudetowardsSustainableFashion
Previousresearchhasdemonstratedthatconsumersareadoptingamorepositiveattitude
towardssustainabletypeofclothing.However,thereisstillanattitude-behaviorgap
betweenconsumers’ethicalinterestsandtheirpurchasingbehavior,andthisfissureis
leadingtoamarketfailure.Inthefashionindustry,individuallypursuingone’sowninterest,
insteadofpromotingtheinterestsofsocietyasawhole,makessocietyworseoff(Krugman
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&Wells,2006).Thereareseveralfactorscausingthisproblem,andthisresearchpaper
focusesonthemostimportantofthese,product-relatedattributes(e.g.,designandprice)
(Joergens,2006).Pricesforethicalclothingarenotcomparablewiththepricesofclothing
producedinAsianfactories—acategorythatincludesmanyoftheproductssoldinstores.
AccordingtoNiinimaki(2009)andJoergens(2006),anotherproduct-relatedproblem
pertainstodesignandquality:Manufacturersstilllacktheknowledgeneededtodesignand
producefashionableandhigh-qualityeco-friendlyclothingthatmeettheaestheticneedsof
theconsumer.Joergens(2006)hasclaimedthatthemainreasonfortheattitude-behavior
gapisthatconsumersareunwillingtosacrificetheirpersonaldesiresforsustainability.
FollowingNiinimaki(2009)hasstatedthatreasonfortheattitude-behaviorgabisthe
factthatchoosingforsustainableornon-sustainablefashiondoesnotaffecttheconsumer
directly.Inothermarketsectors,suchasfood,peoplehavetakenmorestepstowards
consumingenvironmentallyfriendlyproducts.Therationaleexplainingofthisdevelopment
isthatasectorsuchasthefoodindustrydirectlyaffectsaperson’shealth,andinsome
cases,individualscanfeeltheresultsimmediately.Foodsproducedinaneco-friendly
mannertastesbetter,andinaddition,eatinghealthierfoods,suchasvegetables,gives
peoplemoreenergy(Chan&Wong,2012).AccordingtoLeeandHill(2012),theattitude-
behaviorgapiscausedbyalackofknowledgeregardingsustainabilityintheclothing
industry.
Additionally,consumersoftenfeelthattheiractionshavenoimpactwhenitcomes
tosuchglobalissues.Inparticular,consumersaged18-to35-years-oldareconcernedabout
humanrightsandtheenvironmentbutfeelthattheylackthepowertomakeactualchanges
(Niinimaki(2009).Smith(2010)supportsthisstatementbyarguingthatmillennialsfind
sustainabilityhighlyimportantandareseekingbrandsthatwanttohaveapositiveimpact
ontheenvironment(Smith,2010).However,thereisalargegapbetweenthoughtsand
preferencesofmillennialconsumersandwhatcompaniesareactuallydoing.
Hanketal.(2008)studiedmillennials’attitudesandbehaviorsregardingthe
sustainableconsumptionofelectronicproducts,andtheresultsofthatanalysismadethis
pointevenclearer.Whentherespondentswereaskedwhotheythoughtwasresponsiblefor
globalwarming,mostrespondentsansweredtheenergyindustry,followedbythe
government,theautomobileindustryandothermanufacturers.Thegroup,whichscoresthe
lowestaretheproduct,softwareandhardwaredesignersandindividualconsumers.Anda
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verysmallpartbelievednoonewasresponsible.ThereforeHanketal.(2008)concluded,“it
isclearthatthevastmajorityofparticipantsbelievesomeoneisresponsible,theyjustaren’t
surewhom.Whilethesestudentsassesscompaniesandgovernmentsasthemostatfault,
designersarestillheldtoonlyaconsequentialamountofresponsibility—althoughnoless
sothanindividualconsumers”(p.336).However,accordingtoLee&Hill(2012),itispossible
tochangeconsumers’feelingsofpowerlessnessregardingsustainability.Thatauthorstated
thatwhenconsumersfeelthattheyhavemoreofanimpact,theyaremorewillingtoengage
inresponsiblebehavior(Lee&Hill,2012).
1.5Highinvolvementgoods
Themotivatingfactorsmentionedabovearedrivenbypracticalchoices,suchaswillingness
topay,andemotions.Anindividualmightneedaspecificitem,butifseveralcompanies
offersimilarproducts,hisorherfinaldecisionswillbebasedonemotions.Furthermore,
mostpeoplehavemoreclothingthantheyneedforpracticalpurposes.Therefore,fashion
belongstothecategoryof“highinvolvement”goods.Theseareproductsthatconsumers
purchasetofeelconnectedtoacertainlifestyletowhichtheyaspire.Inthefashionindustry,
design,prices,andtrendsleadtoconsumerconsumptionbehaviorlinkedtotheneedto
participate,andproductsrepresentabridgetowardsthedesiredlifestyle(McCracken,
1988).Kaiser(1990)hasarguedthatfashionisasymbolicproduct.Fashionmergeswith
personalneeds;itexpressestheindividual’spersonalitybyexternalmarksandsymbols,
brands,andstatusitems.Fashionisalsoadynamicsocialprocessthatcreatescultural
meaningsandinteractions.Infact,itcanbeseenasafundamentalpartofsocialinteraction.
AccordingtoNiinimaki(2009),consumerdecisionsregardingthepurchaseofsustainable
itemsareoftendrivenbyguiltratherthandesire.FollowingKaiser’s(2011)theory,thebest
possiblescenariowouldbeforsustainableclothingtobecomedesirableandapartofa
people’slifestyles.Inordertofacilitatelongerproductlifespans,greaterdurabilityisneeded
toestablishthelifespanofproductsdesignformoredurabilityisneeded.“Adesignfor
durabilityisadesigninwhichproductlongevityisnotconsideredsolelyintermsofan
object’sphysicalendurance"(Chapman,2009,p.34).
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II.Marketingfashionandsustainability
“Amarketisagroupofconsumersexpressingdesiresandneedsforproducts,services,or
ideas.Theconceptsofneedanddesirearethecornerstonesofmarketingandthekeytoany
marketingstrategy.Traditionalmarketingtheoryimpliesthatacompanyseekstofillan
existingneedamongconsumersinordertobesuccessful”(Towse,2011,p.266).Oncea
productfulfillingthatneedhasbeenproduced,however,itstillmustbesoldtothe
consumer.Inorderforagoodtosell,consumersmustfirstofallbeawareofit.Secondly,
consumersmustdesirethatproductmorethanthoseproducedbycompetitors.Message
marketingisthetoolemployedtocommunicatetheaspectsmentionedintheabove.
AccordingtoRathetal.(2015),“marketingisaprocessthatincludesthecommunicationof
allinformationthatsellerswanttosharewithconsumers,fromthetimeaproductorservice
isanideathroughitspurchase,use,evaluation,anddisposalbytheconsumer”(p.10).
Furthermore,marketingisimportant,becauseitcancreateacompetitiveadvantage(Kumar
etal.,2012,Rathetal.,2015).Thissectionprovidesinsightsintofashionmarketing,green
fashionmarketing,andstrategiesforcommunicatingasefficientlyandeffectivelyas
possible.
2.1Marketing
AccordingtoAnsary(2006;inKumaretal.[2012]),"themarketingstrategyrevolvesaround
3C'si.e.,customer,company,andcompetitors.Amarketerneedstoattractnewconsumers
andmaintaintherelationshipwiththecurrentones.Whenthisisdonecorrectly,marketing
cancreateacompetitiveadvantage.However,toachievethatgoal,itisessentialtolistento
consumers’needsandtosatisfythembydeliveringthesought-afterbenefitsand
communicatingeffectively(Rathetal.,2015).AccordingtoRathetal.(2015),“marketingcan
beseenasabigumbrellatermthatplaysaroleinmanyintegratedactivities,allofwhichare
basedonandenhancedbythestudyofconsumerbehavior”(p.10).“Theactivitiescovera
broadrangefromdesign,research,testmarketingpricing,production,promotion,and
distribution”(Rathetal.,2015,p.12).Furthermore,“marketersmustcontinuouslyevaluate
andinnovate,sincenotallproductsorservicescanremainthesameforeverandstillbe
desirable”(Rathetal.,2015,p.12).Notonlyproductsandserviceschange,butalso
marketingstrategiesandtheirfocalpointshaveundergonemanytransformationsoverthe
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years.Forexample,marketinghasbecomemoreconsumer-oriented,the"requirementsand
orientationoftheconsumer"havealsoshifted(Kumaretal.2012,p.482-483).Therefore,
theincreasesociety’sattentiononsustainabilityledsustainabilityasamarketingstrategy,
whichthenextsectionelaborateson.
2.2Greenmarketing
Agreenmarketingcampaignisatypeofenvironmentallyfocusedpromotionactivitythat
companiescanundertaketopromoteitscorporatesocialresponsibility(CSR)initiatives.
AccordingtoLeeetal.(2012):“Greenpromotionsimprovethecorporateimage,induce
productandservicepurchases,andchangeconsumers’eco-friendlyattitude”(p.70).
However,othersourcesclaimthatcompaniesareforcedintogreenmarketing,becauseif
theydonotparticipatewiththegreentrendtheylosesales(Cronin,etal.2011).This
developmentworkssimilartotheCoca-ColaandPepsiadvertisementphenomenon.Leading
brandssuchasCocaColaandPepsistilladvertisealthoughitdoesnotdirectlyincreasesales.
Hartmann&Klapperstudythisphenomenonforleadingsodabrandsthatadvertise
duringthecommercialbreakoftheSuperBowl,whichisthemostwatchedAmericanTV-
show.Theyconcludethattheleadingsodabrandshavetoadvertisebecauseotherleading
sodabrandsadvertisetoo.IfCocaColadecidesnottoadvertiseandPepsidecidesto
advertise,CocaColalosessalestoPepsi.However,iftheybothadvertisenoonegainsor
losessales.Therefore,theCocaColaPepsiphenomenonappliestogreenmarketinginthe
fashionindustry.Brands/retailerspromotetheirsustainabilitypractices,becauseother
brands/retailershavetodo.Iftheydonotadvertisesustainabilitywhilecompetitorsdo
advertise,itwilldecreasethesalesandbrandimage.Thebrandthatdidnotchosefora
greenmarketingcampaign,isseenasfarlesssustainablethanthebrandsthatdochosefora
greenmarketingcampaign.
2.3Greenmarketingimpact
AccordingtoGrappietal.(2017)arguesthat,“theimpactofconsumers’perceptionsofthe
enlightenmentofgreencampaignsontheirconsumptionofgreenproductsisprocessed
throughamechanismsimilartotheimpactofenvironmentaleducationonreceivers”(p.
1172).Therefore,greenmarketingcampaignscanbecomparedtoNGOcampaigns.
FollowingGrappietal.(2017)states,“NGOcampaignssignificantlyinfluenceconsumers’
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judgmentofabrand”(p.1172).Leeetal(2012)supportsthisbyarguingthatthemessage
senderamaybedifferent(commercialversuspublicagency),buttheirgoalissimilar,
convincingmessagereceivers.“Inmarketing,persuasionisaprocessthroughwhich
communicationisdeliveredtochangebeliefsorattitudesintheintendedway”(Leeetal,
2012,p.71).
AccordingtoSimmonsandWidmar(1990),environmentaleducationhasanindirect
effectonconsumers’levelofeco-friendlyconsciousness.Changesinanindividual’seco-
friendlyconsciousnessinturninfluencehisorhereco-friendlyconsumptionpatterns
(Wildmar,1900;Chan&Wong,2012;Niinimaki,2009).Furthermore,severalstudieshave
identifiedasignificantpositiverelationshipbetweeneco-friendlyconcernsandbehaviors
(Arbuthnot,1977;Kallgren&Wood,1986;Simmons&Widmar,1990).However,afew
studieshaveonlyfoundaweakrelationshipbetweengreenconsciousnessandgreen
behavior.“Theconceptthattherewouldbeaweakrelationshipbetweengreen
consciousnessandgreenbehaviorstemsfromthefactthatenvironmentalgoodsaresimilar
topublicgoods,unlikeotherconsumergoods(Lee,2012,71).Duetothiscontradictionin
theliterature,furtherresearchisnecessarytobetterunderstandwhycertainauthorshave
claimedthatthereisarelationshipbetweenenvironmentalconsciousnessandbehavior,
whileothershaveindicatedotherwise.Therefore,thiscasestudyoftheeffectsofacurrent
marketingcampaignishighlyrelevant.
2.4Greenmarketingtechniques
“Whenmarketingsustainability,apparelmarketersmaybuildmorepositiveattitudes
towardbrandsbyprovidingexplicitinformationaboutenvironmentalfriendlyproductsin
theirmarketingclaims”(Yanetal.,2012,p.151).Marketingstrategiescommunicatingabout
aproductorbrand’senvironmentallyfriendlyqualitiesoftenincorporatetermssuchas“eco,
green,natural,organic,andsustainable”intheirpromotionalmessages.Asuccessful
exampleofthisapproach,accordingtoShenetal.(2014),is“TheConsciousCollection”from
H&M.Byincorporatingthesustainableword“conscious”intothecollection’sname,the
brandensuredthatpeoplewouldimmediatelyunderstandthesustainableconcept
underlyingit(p.973).“However,suchpromotionalmessageslackexplicitmeaning,thatis,
theyoftendonotprovideconsumerswithinformationaboutthespecificmaterialsand
methodsusedtomanufacture‘eco-fashion’,therebyleavingconsumersuncertainor
17
confusedaboutthevalidityofsuchmarketingclaims.AnalyzingtheRawfortheOcean
campaignfromthisperspectivethewordchoiceisveryrefinedandexpressesthemain
messageofthecampaign,whichisthatthebrandG-Starhelpstotheoceansandwaterlife
togetclean.Thename“Raw”isasubstituteforG-Star,whichisalsoreferredtoasG-Star
Raw.Rawreferencesinturntotherawdenimlookthebrandisknownfor.Although,the
campaignmessageisnottooobvious,itisstillclearandcommunicatesthemainpoint.
Thelackofclarityandtheuseofvaguetermsrelatingtoenvironmentallyfriendly
productsandbrandscancreateconfusionand/orraiseconcernsaboutgreenwashinginthe
mindsofconsumersthatmayinhibitpurchasedecisions”(Yanetal.p.152)."Greenwashing
happenswhencompaniesmakeoverblownclaimsofsustainabilityorenvironmentalfriendly
practicesinordertoattempttoincreasetheirmarketshare"(Dahl,2010,p.118).However,
greenwashingisnotnecessarilyanegativedevelopment.Asmentionedabove,“thegreen
campaignscaninfluenceconsumers’environmentalconsciousnesspositively”(Yanetal.,p.
152).
III.Consumers’choices
Notallconsumersrespondinasimilarwaytoeco-fashionandeco-fashionmarketing
communication.Somepeople“mayreadilyfeelarousalandinterest,andshowemotional
attachmentandfavorablebehavior,whileothersmayfeellittlearousalorinterestand
therebyshownochangeintheirattitudeorbehavior”(Leeetal.,2012,p.72).Thischapter
providesinsightsintoconsumers’decision-makingprocesses,thefactorsthatinfluence
choicesregardingeco-fashion,andtheeffectsofaeco-fashioncampaign.
3.1Decision-making
Asmentionedinthepreviouschapter,thestartingpointofamarketingcampaignisthe
consumer’sneedforacertainproduct.Whenitcomestoconsumer’sdecision-making
processes,thismechanismworksexactlythesameway.Itallstartswithproblemawareness,
whichoccurswhenconsumersnoticeanimbalancebetweenthecurrentsituationandthe
idealone.“Whenthegapislargeenoughbetweenthecurrentandidealsituationand
potentialsolutionsareavailable,thepersonbecomesawarethattheremustbeachange”
(Rathetal,2015,p287).Ingeneral,consumersselecttheproductorservicefeaturingthe
18
widestdistancebetweentheircurrentsituationandtheiridealsituation,soastoachievethe
greatestpossibleresult.Inordertocreatethisgap,themarketer“(1)makesiteasyforthe
consumertounderstandthedifferencesamongcompetingbrands,(2)relatetoandvisualize
thesizableimprovementsgained,and(3)minimizethedifficultyindecision-making”(Rath
etal.,p.295).
3.2Influencingfactors
Thosefactorsthatpreviousresearchhasindicatedaffectconsumers’choicescanbedivided
intosixgroups,whicharethepersonalattributes,thefashioninvolvement,environmental
sustainableinvolvement,theeco-fashioninvolvement,thebrandinvolvementandthe
campaigninvolvement/effect.Thefactorsenvironmentalandeco-fashioninvolvement
involvetherelationshipconsumershavewiththesetopics(Leeet.al.,2012;O’Cass,2000).In
theliteratureitisnotcommontomakesuchascleardistinction,whichisstrangesincemany
authorsclaimthatthereisacleardistinctionbetweensustainableinvolvementbetweenthe
fashionindustryandothersectors.ChanandWong(2012)forexampleclaimthat“dueto
thefactthatfashionconsumersdifferfromcustomersinothersectorswhenmakingethical
consumptiondecisions,itisnecessarytodistinguishbetweenenvironmentalinvolvement
andeco-fashioninvolvement.Inothersectors,suchasthefoodindustrypeoplearemore
committed,becausetheirchoicesdirectlyaffecttheirhealth.Sinceunethicalchoicesdonot
influencetheconsumerdirectly,fashionconsumersareoftenlessmotivatedtomakeethical
choices.Therefore,individualsmightsimultaneouslybehighlyenvironmentallyconscious
andcompletelyuninvolvedineco-fashion.Ifthegroupsweretobeaddedtogether,itwould
giveaninaccurateimpressionoftheactualsituation.However,researchershaveprovided
fewanalysescomparingenvironmentalinvolvementandeco-fashioninvolvement
(Chan&Wong,2012).Severalstudieshavefailedtoclearlydistinguishbetweenthetwo.
Therefore,itisevenhighlyrelevanttotestwhetherenvironmentalandeco-fashionattitude
differfromeachother.Finally,thesixthgroupcontainsfactorsconnectedtoadvertising
involvement,whichinfluencesaconsumer’spurchasingchoices(Leeet.al.,2012;O’Cass,
2000).
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3.2.1Personalattributes
Thefirstgroupofinfluencingfactorsislinkedtoconsumers’personalattributesand
demographictraits.AccordingtoChanandWong(2012),environmentallyconscious
consumersdifferfromlessenvironmentallyconsciousconsumersintermsofage,gender,
educationlevel,andincomelevel.Chan(1999)hasstatedthatconsumerswhoarebetter
educated,havehigherincomes,andmoresocialstatustendtobemoreenvironmentally
conscious.However,thisenvironmentalconsciousnessisnotnecessarilyreflectedinthe
actionsoftheseconsumers.Furthermore,genderdifferencesalsoseemtoplayarolewhen
itcomestoenvironmentalconsciousness.Itseemsthatmenmayhavelowerlevelsofeco-
fashioninvolvementthanwomen.Likewise,menmaybelessmotivatedtopayahigherprice
forsustainablefashionthanarewomen(Yanetal.,2014).Whenitcomestoconsumers’
agesasaninfluencingfactor,researchersdisagreeonnumerouspoints.Somestudieshave
reportedthatenvironmentallyconsciousconsumerstendtobeyounger,whileothershave
claimedthatinvolvementdeepenswithage(Chan&Wong,2012).
3.2.2Fashioninvolvement
Thesecondgroupofinfluencingfactorsisconnectedtofashioninvolvement.“Research
indicatesthatfashioninvolvementmayaffectconsumers’responsestoadvertisement,
attitudestowardbrands,anddecisionstopurchaseapparel”(Yanetal.,2014,p.154).
Woodward(2005)hasarguedthatclothingreflectswhopeopleareandwhattheywantto
be,therebyencouragingindividualstomakeparticularfashionchoices.“Howinvolved
consumersbecomeintheirclothesprovidesadeeperunderstandingofthedynamicsof
consumerbehaviorandthenatureandroleoftheproductcategoryoffashionclothingin
society”(p.547).Therefore,fashioninvolvementinfluenceshowconsumersreacttoa
marketingcampaign.
Fashioninvolvementencompassestwofactors:fashionattitudeandfashion
behavior.Themorepositiveone’sfashionattitudeis,themorepositiveisthatperson’s
fashionbehavior.One’sfashionattitudecomprisesbothfashioninterestandfashion
knowledge(Adcock&Hirschman,1978;Kidd&Workman,2000).Fashionbehaviorcanbe
assessedviaanindividual’s‘monthlyfashionexpenses’,whichmeasurestheamountof
moneyspentonpermonthonfashion-relateditems.Anothervariableformeasuring
20
behavioris‘shoppingfrequency’,whichanalyseshowoftenaconsumershopsonaverage
(Lee,2012).
3.2.3Environmentalinvolvement
Thethirdgroupofinfluencingfactorsconsistsofvariableslinkedtoenvironmental
involvement.Severalstudieshaveidentifiedasignificantpositiverelationshipbetweeneco-
friendlyconcernsandbehavior(Arbuthnot,1977;Kallgren&Wood,1986;Simmons&
Widmar,1990).Itisoftenassumedthatenvironmentallyresponsibleconsumersarewilling
topayapremiumforeco-productstoprotecttheenvironment(Ferraroetal.,2005).One’s
environmentalinvolvementconsistsofone’senvironmentalattitudeandbehavior.A
person’senvironmentalattitudedemonstrateshisorheropinionregardingsustainability,
whileenvironmentalbehaviorreferstothatindividual’senvironmentallysustainableactions
(e.g.,wasteseparation,consumptionoforganicfood,limitationofoverallconsumption,
limitationofnaturalresourceuse,andtheuseofpublictransportation/biketransport;Fraj&
Martinez,2006).
3.2.4Eco-fashioninvolvement
Thefourthgroupofinfluencingfactorsaddressthetopicofeco-fashioninvolvement.Like
thepreviouslydiscussedcategories,eco-fashioninvolvementhasbothanattitudinalanda
behavioralcomponent.Severalresearchershavefoundarelationshipbetweenaconsumer’s
eco-fashionconcerns(attitude)andhisorhereco-fashionbehavior(Arbuthnot,1977;
Kallgren&Wood,1986;Simmons&Widmar,1990).Eco-fashionbehaviorconsistsofthe
actionsthataconsumertakestoconsumeinamoreeco-fashionfriendlymanner.Hanketal.
(2008)dividessustainableproductbehavior“intothecategoriespurchasing,replacement
cycle,sharing,andhandlingendofservice”(p.337).Thecategorypurchasingbehavior
involvespracticessuchasacquisitionofenvironmentallyfriendlyclothes(e.g.,second-hand
clothingandsustainablebrands)insteadofnon-environmentalfriendlyclothes.Thecategory
replacementcycleinvolvespracticessuchas,theincreaseoftheclothes’usagetimespan
(throughrepairing,altering,anddyeingclothingorrepurposingfabricforotherprojects).
Thecategory‘handlingendofservice’entailsthatconsumersmakesuretheclothesthey
discardendupinrecycling(bybringingthemtoclothingcollectionpoints,givingtheclothes
awayorsellingthemonthesecondhandmarket).Thecategory‘sharing’istoocomplicated
toincorporateforfashionasaproductcategory.Duetopracticalandemotionreasons,
21
whichincludesize,fit,hygiene,personalstyleortheunwillingnesstosharesuchapersonal
product.Therearebusinessmodelsmodelsthatarebasedontheprincipleofsharing,such
asinthecostumerentalbusiness.However,thismarketissonicheinadditiontothefact
thatotherexternalfactorsinfluencetheusagetheservicethatitcannotbetakeninto
account.
Inadditiontoone’sattitudeandbehavior,one’swillingnesstopayforsustainable
fashionisalsoanindicatorofeco-fashioninvolvement.Previousresearchhasrevealedthata
commonissuewithsustainablefashionisthefactthatpeopleareunwillingtosacrifice
personalneeds(Joergens,2006).Comparinganindividual’swillingnesstopayforsustainable
versusnon-sustainablefashionprovidesaclearindicationofthetypeofconsumerthat
personis.AccordingtoChanandWong(2012)haveconsumersapricerangethattheyfind
acceptabletopayforacertainproduct.Ifthepriceofaproductis10%priceabovethe
‘acceptableprice’consumersarenotaffectedbyitandstillwillingtopurchasetheproduct.
However,whenaproductis25-30%abovethe‘acceptable’pricetheyarelikelytorefrain
frommakingthepurchase.Furthermore,eco-fashioninvolvedconsumersareoftenassumed
tobewillingtopayahigherpriceforeco-productsthatprotecttheenvironment.
3.2.5Brandinvolvement
Thefifthgroupofinfluencingfactorsconcernsbrandinvolvement.“Fromamarketer’s
perspective,brandinvolvementisconsideredthekeytoactivateconsumers’motivationand
isafundamentalbaseforunderstandingconsumer/sellerrelationshipsinmarkets”(O’Cass,
1999,p.554).Brandinvolvementconsistsoftwoelements:brandattitudeandbrand
behavior.Abrandattitudecanbedescribed“asconsumers’judgmentoftheiroverall
experiencewithabrandandwhetherthebrandisheldinhighregard,trustedby,and
respectedbycustomers.Consumerexperienceorexpectationofexperiencewithabrand
canbedescribedintermsoffunctionalandemotionalvalues”(Yanetal.,2014).Incontrast,
brandbehaviormeasuresconsumers’purchasesandtheamountofmoneyspentonthem,
sincepurchasingitemsistheultimatemanifestationofapositivebrandattitude(Yagci,
Biswas&Dutt,2009).
3.2.6Campaigninvolvementandeffects
Thesixthgroupofinfluencingfactorsreferstocampaigninvolvement.Similartotheother
groups,campaigninvolvementcanbedividedintosubcategories:attitude,knowledge,and
22
behavior.Thecampaignattitudereferstotheattitudeoftheconsumerstowardsthe
campaign.Campaignbehaviorconsidersthenumberofpurchasesfromthatspecific
collectionandtheirmonetaryvalue.Whenpeoplehavepurchaseditemsfromaspecific
collectionandtheyarecontentwiththoseitems,theyarewillingtobuymore,becausesuch
apurchaseentailsalowerlevelofriskandfewersearchcosts.
Furthermore,agreencampaigncanhaveasideeffectthatifitchangesconsumers’
attitudesandbehavioronotherlevels.AccordingtoSimmonsandWidmar(1990),
environmentaleducationhasanindirecteffectonconsumers’eco-friendlyconsciousness.In
turn,changesinthatvariablehaveaninfluenceonconsumers’eco-friendlyconsumption
patterns(Simmons&Wildmar,1900;Chan&Wong,2012;Niinimaki,2010).Inaddition,a
greenmarketingcampaigncanalsoinfluenceconsumers’attitudesandbehaviortowards
thebrand(Leeetal.,2012).
23
IV.Casestudy:G-StarandRawfortheOcean
Thissectionintroducesthecasestudy,whichcentersontheRawfortheOceancampaign
initiatedbytheDutchjeansbrand,G-star.Thisstudyconsideredhowmillennialconsumers
livingintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016respondedtothecampaign.
Thattimeframemarkedtheperiodduringwhichthecampaignwasrunningandthe
collectionwasavailableforsale.ThedecisiontocenterthestudyontheRawfortheOcean
campaignisduetotheinternationalreachofG-Star.TherearenotmanyDutchfashion
brandswithaglobalpresenceandinfluencethatlaunchagreenmarketingcampaign.The
numberofbrandsandretailersactivelypromotingenvironmentalsustainabilityisstillquite
nicheandfocussesmainlyontheuseoforganiccotton.Theinitiativesthataremore
progressiveoftenperformonalocalscale.Therefore,thelargemultinationalsshouldtake
theleadinordertocreateglobalchange.InadditiontoG-Star’sglobalreachandthe
progressivecharacterofthecampaign,causedtheattentiontheyreceivedinthemediaa
buzz,whichmakesthiscasehighlyrelevanttoresearch.Furthermore,unlikecomparable
studiesthatuseafictionalcaseinanexperimentalsetting,G-Star’sresearchinvolvesan
actualexistingcase.
4.1G-Star
TheDutchjeansbrand,G-Star,isoneofthemostsuccessfulDutchfashionbrands,withsales
pointsinmorethan65countries.ItsheadquartersarelocatedinanAmsterdambuilding
thatRemKoolhaasspecificallydesignedtofitthefirm’satmosphere.Toensureaconsistent
brandimage,allofG-Star’sdesignandproductionwork(withtheexceptionoflarge-scale
production)takesplacein-house,includingactivitiesrangingfromitemdesigntostore
design(whichismodelledinanexperimentalstore)tophotography(whichtakesplaceinan
in-housestudio).ThecompanywasfoundedbyJosvanTilburgin1989underthenameof
Gapstar.G-Starstrategicallypositionsitselfwithaproductmixcomprisedofinnovative
denimpiecesandmorecommercial,casualdesigns.Therefore,G-Starattractsawiderange
ofconsumertypes.“Someconsumersarefashion-consciousandsearchingforfashion-
forwarddenimproducts;somelookforcasualeverydaypieces;othersareattractedtothe
brandforfunctionalorqualityreasons;andyetothersaredrawntotheproductsfortheir
statusvalueorasmarkersofgroupidentity”(FreiherrvonMaltzahn,2013,p.96).
24
Asmentionedpreviously,theG-Starbrandhaspushedboundariesinthedenim
worldthroughitssearchforinnovation.In1996,theheaddesigner,PierreMorisset,created
oneofthecompany’smosticonicdesigns,3Djeans,nowknownastheclassicElwood.This
productstartedasawearableexperimentinformandfunction,atoncecomfortableand
fashionable,accessibleandforward-thinking.“Thedesignwasinspiredbywater-soaked
bikerpants,withtheshapebasedonathree-dimensionalfitfollowingtheproportionsofthe
humanbodyinsteadofapairofsymmetricaltrouserlegs,thedesignmeantaradicalbreak
withthetraditionalfive-pocketjeans”(FreiherrvonMaltzahn,2013,p.96).Thedesignwasa
greatsuccessandsoldovermorethan10millioncopiesworldwide.Eventothisday,that
modelisstilloneofthebrand’stopsellers(FreiherrvonMaltzahn,2013).
Inadditiontoitsinnovativedesigns,thecompanyalsoemploysaninteresting
marketingmix,one“composedoftraditionalbillboardadvertising,productplacement,and
moreadvancedbrandingstrategies.Thefirmembracesaconsistentlycommercialmarket
approachstretchingtoallareasofthebusinessmodel.Thesumofthesethoughtsproduces
aninteresting(andoccasionallycontradictory)brandidentitywithglobalappeal”(Freiherr
vonMaltzahn,2013,p.96).
Furthermore,G-Starmakesuseofcelebrityendorsementasamarketingstrategyto
generateextramediaattentionandaddvaluetothebrand(Carrol,2008).Whenpurchasing
products,peoplenotonlybuyapartofthebrand'slifestyle,butalsopurchaseapieceofthe
celebrity’slifestyle.Byworkingwithacelebrity,thebrandcanconnecttoanewgroupof
consumers:thefansfollowingthatindividual.Forthecelebrity,ontheotherhand,sucha
collaborationcreatespublicityandenlargeshisorheraudienceaswell(Carrol,2008).The
celebritiesandartistsG-Starhasworkedwithandreferstoas‘friends’includeDJAfrojack,
photographerEllenvonUnwerth,modelLilyCole,andactressLivTyler.Inadditionto
collaborationswithcelebrities,G-Staralsopartnerswithotherbrandstocreateitsso-called
“Crossovers.”IthasalreadydesignedofficefurniturewithProuve,theRawCamerawith
Leica,theRawDefenderwithLandRover,abikewithConnondale,andawhiskeywith
Hennessy(FreiherrvonMaltzahn,2013;Gstar.nl,2017).
25
4.2TheG-Starfashionconsumer
Asmentionedintheprevioussection,G-Starattractsawiderangeofconsumersduetoits
broadofferings.Ontheonehand,itscommercialitemsdrawalargetargetgroup,whileon
theotherhand,fashion-forwarditemsinterestasmallertargetaudience.AccordingtoJos
vanTilburg,“muchofG-Star’sbrandingstrategyisaboutpromotingacertainmentality”
(FreiherrvonMaltzahn,2013,p.96).Ashehasclaimed,“It’saboutaspecificattitude.
Dividingthemarketintoclustersisanoutdatedmodel.Thereisneitherayoungconsumer
groupnorasportyone.Thatideahasrunitscourse.Onedayconsumerswanttolooksmart,
thenexttheygoallcasual,andthedayaftertheywishtolookrough”(Freiherrvon
Maltzahn,2013,p.100).Thisalsoexplainsthecompany’sbroadlydefinedageofthetarget
group,whichincludesthosefrom18to34yearsold.Rightnow,thegroupinthatspecific
agerangeisthemillennialgeneration,whichisbornbetween1977and2000(Smith,2010).
4.3RawfortheOcean
TheDutchjeansbrand,G-Star,isanexampleofacompanythathasincorporated
sustainabilityintoitsbusinessmodel.InAugust2014,togetherwiththecompanyBionic
Yarnfromhip-hopstarPharrelWilliams,itlaunchedthetwo-yearcapsulecollectionRawfor
theOcean.BionicYarncreatesyarnfromrecycledplastic.OneofitsinitiativesisTheVortex
Project,whichwasstartedtofindasolutionforthelargeamountofplasticintheoceans
(Styleindicator.nl,2014).“Everydayabout13,000-15,000piecesofplasticaredumpedinto
theocean.Onagloballevelisthat6.4milliontonsperyear.Duetothecurrentsofthe
oceans,theplasticsgetaccumulatedatfivegyresofplasticpiecesalongwhichmarinelife
thrives”(Muthu,2016,p.105).Thesegyresmakeitverydifficulttocollecttheplasticfrom
themovingwater,andtheyalsoriskkillinganunacceptablylargenumberofanimals.
Therefore,TheVortexProject,incollaborationwithlocalorganizations,collectsgarbage
alongcoastlines.TheclaSchaeffer,thechiefmarketingofficeratG-StarRAW,understands
thatthisprojectisnotafinalsolutionfortheoverconsumptionofplastics,butviewsitasa
meansoftryingtocleanupasmuchplasticintheoceanaspossible,turningitintonew
products.ForthefirstRawfortheOceancollection,atleast10tonsofplastic—afigure
analogousto700,000plasticbottles—wasusedincombinationwithenvironmentally
friendlycotton(Styleindicator.nl,2014).
26
Aftertheplasticiscollected,therecyclingprocessstarts.Theretrievedoceanplastic
isbrokenintochips,shreddedintofibers,andpreparedforspinning.Theoceanfibersare
spunintoastrongyarncorewithacottonsheathtoformthebionicyarn.G-Starsupplies
thisyarntoknittingindustryweavingmillswhereitisconvertedintoRawfortheOcean
fabrics.Theartisticmilliner,Karachi,workswiththebionicyarnprovidedbyG-Starfor
conversionintodenimfabric.
Theeconomicsofplasticbottlerecyclingisverysimple."In2005,theUnitedStates
recycled3.3billionpoundsofpost-consumerplastics,thuspreventingthemfromgoingtoa
landfill.Theplasticrecyclingindustryprovidesjobstomorethan52,000Americanworkers.
FivePETbottlesyieldenoughfiberforoneextra-largeT-shirtperyear”(Muthu,2016,p.
106).
4.4TheRawfortheOceanmarketingcampaign
TheRawfortheOceanCampaignwaswelcomedwithopenarmsbyboththepressand
advertisingindustryprofessionals.In2014,thecampaignwontheGrandPrixProductDesign
awardattheCannesLionscreativefestival.Ayearlater,itwontwogoldmedalsandagrand
prixawardattheADCNLampen2015inAmsterdam.Thecampaignwasdevelopedwiththe
FHVBBDOadvertisingagencytogetherwithcreativestudioBiggerBetterPlan.Inadditionto
standardadvertisements,themarketingcampaignincludedadocumentaryaboutthe
project,whichinformedpeopleabouttheproblemsassociatedwiththehighlevelofplastic
intheocean.Themannerinwhichthecompanyhasframeditsmessageiscalled‘gain
framing’,andthatapproachmakessense,sincegainframingisthemosteffectivewayto
depictsustainabilitypracticesregardingrecycling.“Gain/lossframesmanipulatethe
outcomestoemphasizethebenefitsorcostsofthebehavior.Thefocusofthegainsand
lossescanbeonone’ssocialenvironment(socialthreat)orphysicalenvironment”(Chenet
al.,2011,p.48).WhenrelatingthistotheG-Starcampaign,itsay‘Bybuyingourproductyou
‘gain’acleanerocean’.ThisstrategytogetherwiththecelebrityendorsementofPharrel
Williamsastheline’sfaceandspokespersonwasasmartmarketingmove.
Anotherinterestingaspectofthecampaignpertaineditshighaccessibilityforalarge
audience.TheRawfortheOceanproductlinehasmadesustainableclothingveryaccessible
forthemasses,anuncommonachievementintheworldofsustainablefashion.Sustainable
27
fashionhasoftenbeenrestrictedtosmallcompanieswithlimitedproductioncapabilitiesor
tocompanysideprojects.G-Star,ontheotherhand,hasincorporatedsustainabilityintoits
policiesandproducts.G-StarhascommunicatedthattobepartoftheG-Starlifestyle,
peopleneedtobeenvironmentallyconscious.Moreover,G-Starisabrandwithastrong
image.Brandconsumptionhasbecomeaprocessofself-reference,self-identity,andself-
articulation.Peopleachieveaformofself-consistencyviatheirbrandconsumption(Carrol,
2008).AccordingtoCarrol(2008),thisisthereasonwhyincorporatingsustainabilityintothe
brandvisionhasbeenefficient.However,criticshaveclaimedthatRawfortheOceanonly
comprisesaverysmallportionofthecompany’sproduction,whileG-Starpresentsthatline
asamuchlargerpartofthewhole.However,G-starannouncedin2016thattheyare
replacingallpolyestersinthecollectionbyrecycledonesandRawfortheOceanfunctioned
asatestrunforthismuchlargerstep.Whetherthecampaignwasaformofgreenwashingis
notthatimportant,sinceitraisedenvironmentalawarenessamongconsumersand
addressedproblemscausedbythelargeamountofplasticsinthesea.(Yanetal.,2012).
28
V.Methodology
Thischapterdiscussesthemethodologyusedtoexaminethosefactorsthatinfluence
consumers’choicesregardingsustainablefashion.Thefirstpartgivesinsightsintothedata
collectionandsamplingmethods.Thesecondpartelaboratesonthesurveyandvariables
employedinthisresearch.Thethirdsectionprovidesthestudy’shypothesesandan
explanationoftheirdevelopment.Movingon,thefourthpartexplainstheresearchmodels
andtheoperationalizationofthevariables.Finally,thefifthsectiondiscussesthevalidityand
reliabilityofthisresearch
5.1.Datacollectionandsample
ThisresearchconsistedofanonlinesurveydevelopedwithQualtrics.Theresearchwas
cross-sectional,withthesurveydistributedduringthreeweeksinMay2017.G-Star’starget
groupispeopleaged18to34years-old.Thistargetgroupbelongstothemillennial
generation,whichwasbornbetween1977and2000(Smith,2010).Sincethistargetgroupis
notcleancut,thisstudy’ssampleconsistedofindividualsbelongingtothemillennial
generation,soastocreatesomeanoverlapandtoavoidexcludingactiveG-Starconsumers.
Toparticipate,therespondentsneededtohavebeenbornbetween1977and2000andto
havelivedintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016,thetimeframeduring
whichtheRawfortheOceanCampaignranandduringwhichthecollectionwasavailablefor
salebothonlineandinphysicalstores.
Todistributethesurvey,acombinationoftwodifferentsamplingmethodswasused.
Thefirstmethod,snowballsampling,employedonlinenetworkswithwhichmillennials
engage.Manyscholarshaveacknowledgedthattheinternetprovidesnewopportunitiesfor
collectingrespondentsfornon-randomsurveys.Researcherscanbenefitfromtheinternet
andthesocialnetworkscomprisingit.Theseonlinenetworksincludethestudentunion’s
onlinenetworksandtheonlinenetworksofschoolslocatedinAmsterdam.Inaddition,
Facebookisanexampleofasocialnetworkingsite(SNS).AccordingtoBoydandEllison
(2008),SNSsare“web-basedservicesthatallowindividualstoconstructapublicorsemi-
publicprofilewithinaboundedsystem,articulatealistofotheruserswithwhomtheyshare
aconnection,andviewandtraversetheirlistofconnectionsandthosemadebyothers
withinthesystem”(p.1).Duetothesecharacteristics,theinternetandSNSsarehighly
29
appropriatetoolsforusewithinthesnowballsamplingmethod(Baltar&Brunet,2012).
Thesampleforthisstudywasdistributedatthestudentunion’sNonomesonline
communitythatconsistsofaprivateFacebookgroupforactiveandalumnimembers.By
distributingthesurveynotonlyamongactivemembersbutalsoamongalumni,itwas
possibletoengagewithawideragerange.Specifically,thesealumniwereaged22to50
years-old,whileactivemembersrangedfrom17to25years-old.Thereasonforselecting
Nonomesasastudentunionwasthatitsmembersfeaturedawiderrangeofbackgroundsas
comparedtootherstudentunionsinAmsterdam.Focusingonthatbodyyieldedasample
thatwasmorerepresentativeofthelargerpopulation.Furthermore,wasthesurvey
distributedatschool’sonlinenetworks,whicharepublicFacebookgroupsandaninternal
privatenetwork(i.e.,anintranet).TheschoolsselectedwerethecommunitycollegeROC
AmsterdamandtheschoolofUniversityofAppliedScienceHVA.
Inthesnowballsamplingtechnique,arespondentprovidestheresearcherwiththe
nameofthenextrespondent,whointurnprovidesthenameofathird,andsoon.Inthis
study,therespondentswereaskedtonamepeopleintheirnetworkwhomightalsobe
willingtocompletethesurvey.Thisstrategywasusedduetoalowresponserate.This
problemisparticularlyprevalentforsurveysdistributedinonlinenetworksandincasesin
whichcandidatesarenotpersonallyapproached(Baltar&Brunet,2012).
Inordertoincreasethevalidityofthesample,potentialrespondentswerealso
approachedinshoppingareasclosetoG-Starsalespoints,suchasthosesurroundingtheG-
StarstoresattheKalverstraat,theLeidsestraat,andtheP.C.Hoofdstraat(Bryman,2001).
Furthermore,toalsoincludehigh-schoolstudentsaged16yearsandabove,thesurveywas
distributedamongrandomlyselectedstudentsatCalandLyceuminAmsterdam.The
rationaleunderlyingthechoiceofthisspecifichighschoolwasthefactthatithousesall
levelsofeducationfromVMBO–TLtogymnasium.Furthermore,asthisschoolisnotlinked
toareligiousdenomination,itattractsamorediversegroupofpeople.
5.2Surveyvariables
Sixuniquevariablegroupswereusedtoconstructthesurveyquestions,andallofthese
factorsarediscussedindetailinSection3.2.Thefirstgroupofvariablesconsistedof
personalattributes(PA;e.g.,genderandage)describingtherespondents,andthesefactors
servedascontrolvariables.Thesecondgroupofvariablesanalyzedfashioninvolvement(FI),
30
ortherelationshipsthatconsumershavewithfashionandclothing.Thatfactorconsistedof
twosub-constructs:fashionattitude(FA)andfashionbehavior(FB).Thethirdgroupof
variablesmeasuredtherelationshipbetweenconsumersandenvironmentalsustainability
(environmentalinvolvement;EI).Itlikewiseconsistedoftwoelements:environmental
attitude(EA)andenvironmentalbehavior(EB).Thefourthvariablecategoryexaminedthe
relationshipsthattherespondentshadwithsustainablefashion(eco-fashioninvolvement;
EFI)viathreeconstructs:eco-fashionattitude(EFA),eco-fashionbehavior,andwillingnessto
pay(WP).ThefifthgroupanalyzedtherelationshipsthattherespondentshadwiththeG-
Starbrand(brandinvolvement;BI).Thatcategoryencompassedtwoelements:brand
attitude(BA)andbrandbehavior(BB).Thesixthgroupconsistedofadvertisingeffect
variables,andspecificallyconsumers’campaigninvolvement(CI)andthecampaigneffect
(CE).Campaigninvolvementwasassessedviatwovariables:campaignattitude(CA)and
campaignbehavior(CB).Finally,thecampaigneffectwasdeterminedviatheelementsof
campaigneffectattitude(CEA)andcampaigneffectbehavior(CEB).
31
Table5.1:group1personalattributes
Concept Operationalization Coding Variable
type/range
PA Age
Whatisyourage?
Listofpossibleagesfrom16-40
years-old
Interval/
Ratio
PA Gender
Whatisyourgender?
1. Male
2. Female
Nominal
PA Educationlevel
Whatisyourhighest
levelofeducation?
1. Basisschool/elementary
School
2. Middelbareschool/high
School
3. MBO/communitycollege
4. HBO/appliedscience
5. WO/university
Ordinal
PA
Employmentstatus 1. Employed
2. Student
3. Unemployed
Nominal
32
Table5.2:group2fashionInvolvement
Concept Operationalization Coding Variable
type/range
FA Fashion-Importance(FA)
Howimportantisfashiontoyouona
scalefrom0-10?
Scale0-10 Interval/
Ratio
WP Willingnesstopayfornon-sustainable
jeans(WP-S-Jeans)
Open Interval/
Ratio
WP Willingnesstopayfornon-sustainable
jeans(WP-N-Jeans)
Open Interval/
Ratio
WP Differencewillingnesstopayfor
sustainablejeans(DWP)
WPSJeans–WPNjeans(in€)
FB Monthlyfashionexpenses(FB)
Howmuchdoyouspendonfashion-
relateditemspermonth?
Open Interval/
Ratio
FB Shoppingfrequency
Howoftendoyoushop?
1. Onceayear
2. Twiceayear
3. Onceeverythreemonths
4. Onceamonth
5. Onceaweek
6. Morethanonceaweek
Ordinal
FI
Eco-FashionInvolvement
𝐹𝐼 =𝐹𝐴 + 0,01 𝐹𝐵
2
Scale0-10
Interval/
Ratio
33
Table5.3:group3environmentalinvolvement
Concept Operationalization Coding Variable
type/range
EA Environmentalimportance(EA)
Scale0-10 Interval/Ratio
EB Environmentalactions
Whatkindofactionsdoyoutaketo
bemoreenvironmentallyfriendly
(moreanswerspossible)?
1. None.Idon’ttakeany
environmentalactionsto
becomemoresustainable.
2. Waste-related:Iseparate
mywaste.
3. Food-related:Ieatorganic
products.
4. Ilimitmyoverall
consumptionandonlyuse
whatIneed.
5. Ilimitmyuseofresources
(water/gas/electricity).
6. Transportation:Itakepublic
transportationorcycle.
Nominal
EB Totalnumberofenvironmental
actionsselectedfortheprevious
variable.(EB)
Scale0-5 Interval/Ratio
EI Eco-FashionInvolvement
𝐸𝐼 =𝐸𝐴 + 2(𝐸𝐵)
2
Scale0-10 Interval/ratio
34
Table5.3:group4eco-fashioninvolvement
Concept Operationalization Coding Variable
type/range
EFA Eco-fashionimportance(EFA)
Scale0-10 Nominal
WP Willingnesstopayfor
sustainablejeans.
Open Interval/
Ratio
WP Willingnesstopayfora
sustainableT-shirt
Open Interval/
Ratio
EFB Environmentalactions
Whatkindofactionsdoyoutake
tobemoreenvironmentally
friendly(moreanswerspossible)
1. None.Idon'ttakeenvironmental
actionstobecomemore
sustainable
2. IrecycleclothingthatIhave
discarded(e.g.,bybringingthem
toarecyclingpointorselling
themsecond-hand)
3. Ibuymoreenvironmentally
friendlyclothes(e.g.Second-
handproductsandsustainable
brands)
4. Ihaveexpandedthelengthof
timethatIusemyclothesmyself
(e.g.,repairs,fitalterations,
dyeing,repurposingthefabric)
Nominal
EFB Totalnumberofeco-fashion
actionsselectedfortheprevious
variable(EFB)
Scale0-3 Interval/
Ratio
EFI Eco-FashionInvolvement
𝐸𝐹𝐼 =𝐸𝐹𝐴 + 0,3(𝐸𝐹𝐵)
2
Scale0-10 Interval/ratio
35
Table5.4:group5:brandinvolvement
Concept Operationalization Coding Variable
type/range
BA Brandattitude(BA)
HowmuchdoyoulikeG-Starasa
brand?
Scale0-10 Nominal
BB Brandexpenses(BB)
Howmuchmoney(in€)didyou
spendonG-Staritemslastyear?
Open Interval/
Ratio
36
Table5.5:group6campaigninvolvement/campaigneffect
Group6a:campaigninvolvement
Concept Operationalization Coding Variable
type/range
CA CampaignattitudeCA)
HowmuchdoyouliketheRawfor
theOceancampaign?
Scale0-10 Nominal
CA CampaignMessage
Themessageofthecampaignis
clear.
5-pointLikertscale.
Stronglydisagree-stronglyagree
Ordinal
CB Campaignpurchases(CB)
Howmuchdidyouspend(in€)on
itemsfromthecampaign.
Open Interval/
Ratio
Group6b:campaigneffect
CEA Changeinbrandattitude
Statement:Duetothecampaign,I
likeG-Starmoreasabrand.
5-pointLikertscale.
Stronglydisagree-stronglyagree
Interval/
Ratio
CEA Changeinenvironmentalattitude
Duetothecampaign,Ifind
environmentalsustainabilitymore
important.
5-pointLikertscale.
Stronglydisagree–stronglyagree
Ordinal
CEA Awarenessofplasticbottles
problem
DuetothecampaignI'mmore
5-pointLikertscale.
Stronglydisagree-stronglyagree
Ordinal
37
5.2.1Involvementvariables
Theinvolvementvariablesformodeltwowerecalculatedonthebasisoftheattitudeand
behaviorvariables.Theseinvolvementvariableswerethesumoftheattitudevariableand
behaviorvariable.However,theattitude-relatedvariablesweremeasuredona0-10scale,
andwhilethebehavioralvariablesemployedseveraldifferentscales.BothvariablesAttitude
andBehaviorareconsideredequallyimportantandthereforebothvariablesneedtousethe
samescalebeforetheycanbeaddeduptogether.“Theeasiestandmostobviousmethodof
estimation,andconsequentlytheonethatisprobablymostwidelyused,isasimple
proportionaltransformation”.Thisapproachinvolvesmultiplyingscalewithaproportion
MaximumNew/MaximumOld(Colman,1997,p.336).
𝑉𝑛𝑒𝑤 =𝑀𝑎𝑥𝑁𝑒𝑤 −𝑀𝑖𝑛𝑁𝑒𝑤𝑀𝑎𝑥𝑂𝑙𝑑 −𝑀𝑖𝑛𝑂𝑙𝑑 ∙ 𝑣 − 𝑀𝑖𝑛𝑂𝑙𝑑 +𝑀𝑖𝑛𝑁𝑒𝑤
Fashioninvolvement
Thefashioninvolvementvariabledemonstratedthelevelofimportancethatconsumers
assignedtofashionandtheamountofmoney(in€)thattheyspentpermonthonfashion-
relateditems.Itwascalculatedasfollows:
𝐹𝐼 =𝐹𝐴 + 0,01 𝐹𝐵
2
awareoftheproblemswith
plasticbottlesintheocean.
CEB
Changesinenvironmentalactions
Hasthecampaignchangedthe
actionsthatyoutaketobemore
environmentallyfriendly?
1. Yes
2. No
Dichotomous
38
Environmentalinvolvement
Theenvironmentalinvolvementvariableindicatedthelevelofimportancethatconsumers
gavetoenvironmentalsustainabilityandthenumberofactionsthattheyhadtakentolive
moreenvironmentallyfriendlylives.Thus,thisfactorwascomputedasbelow:
𝐸𝐼 =𝐸𝐴 + 2(𝐸𝐵)
2
Eco-fashioninvolvement
Theeco-fashioninvolvementvariableoutlinedtheimportancethatconsumersgaveto
sustainableproductionandconsumptioninthefashionindustry.Italsoreflectedthe
numberofsustainableactionsthatconsumersperformedtomaketheirfashion
consumptionmoreenvironmentallyfriendly.Thus,thisfactorwascomputedasbelow:
𝐸𝐹𝐼 =𝐸𝐹𝐴 + 0,3(𝐸𝐹𝐴)
2
39
5.3Hypothesisdevelopment
Thissectiondescribeshowthehypothesestestedinthisresearchprojectwereformulated.
Asmentionedintheliteraturereview,previousstudieshavenotclearlydistinguished
betweenenvironmentalinvolvementandeco-fashioninvolvement.However,severalstudies
haveclaimedthatsustainablefashionconsciousnessandsustainableconsciousnessinother
sectorsarenotthesame(Chan&Wong,2012).However,researchershaveprovidedfew
analysescomparingenvironmentalinvolvementandeco-fashioninvolvement(Chan&Wong,
2012).Severalstudieshavefailedtoclearlydistinguishbetweenthetwo.Therefore,itis
evenhighlyrelevanttotestwhetherenvironmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitudediffer
fromeachother.Onthatbasis,thefollowinghypothesiswasdeveloped:
H1:Consumers’environmentalattitudeisnotsimilartotheireco-fashion
involvement.
5.3.1Environmental,eco-fashion,andfashioninvolvement
Chan(1999)hasstatedthatenvironmentallyconsciousconsumerstendtobebetter
educatedandtohaveahighereconomicstatusandincome.However,dataonconsumers’
educationlevelandincomewerenotusefulinthiscontext.Duetothewideagerange,the
sampleincludednumerousuniversitystudentsandhigh-schoolstudentsstillsupportedby
theirparents.Therefore,theyearlyincomeisnotatruerepresentationoftheperson’s
yearlybudget.EducationlevelisusedbyChan(2012)tomakearankbetweenconsumer’s
socialstatus.Thehighschoolstudentsintheagegroup16-20yearsold,didnothavethe
opportunitytoeducatedthemselvesfurthersothereforeeducationlevelisnotagood
indicatorforthisstudy.Thus,thosetwovariableswereexcludedfromtheanalysis.
Onthatbasis,thefollowinghypothesesweredeveloped:
H2:Consumerswhoarefemale,youngerandhighlyfashionandenvironmentalare
alsohighlyeco-fashioninvolved.
H3:Consumerswhoarefemale,youngerandhighlyfashioninvolvedand
environmentalinvolvementscalearealsohighlyeco-fashioninvolved
40
AccordingtoO’CassandChoy(2008),highlyfashioninvolvedindividualsarewillingto
payapremiumpriceforsustainableproducts.However,thehigherpriceforsustainable
fashionisoftenaproblemforconsumerswhenitcomestopurchasingsustainableclothes.
Nonetheless,itseemsthatpeoplewhoaremorefashioninvolvedarewillingtopayahigher
priceforluxurygoods.Furthermore,environmentallyresponsibleconsumersareoften
willingtopayapremiumforeco-productstoprotecttheenvironment(Ferraroetal.,2005).
Moreover,differencesinwillingnesstopayalsohavebeenfoundtoexistbetweenthesexes.
Menarewillingtopaylessforsustainableproductsthanarewomen.Onthatbasis,the
followinghypothesesweredeveloped:
H4:Consumerswhoarefemaleandscorehigheronfashion,environmentalandeco-
fashionattitudearealsowillingtospendmoremoney(in€)on
sustainablefashion.
Findingsfrommultiplestudiessuggestthatanindividual’sconcernforthe
environmentmayinfluencedecisionsrelatedtoapparelconsumption,includingproduct
purchase,productdisposal,andstorepatronage(Leeetal.,2012).Therefore,thefollowing
hypothesiswasdeveloped:
H5:Consumerswhofindenvironmentalsustainabilityandeco-fashionhighly
importantperformalsomoreenvironmentalandeco-fashionactions.
5.3.2Brandinvolvement
Brandimageisanimportantindicatorofacampaign’ssuccess,sincepeopleassociatethe
brand’svalueswithindividualinitiatives(Bao,Shao&Rivers,2008).Actualorexpected
consumerexperienceswithabrandarealsoessential,sinceclothinghasnotonlya
functionalvaluebutalsoanemotionalone(deChernatony,2009).Furthermore,Kim,
Forney,andArnold(1997)haveclaimedthatconsumerswhofindenvironmental
sustainabilityimportanthaveamorepositiveattitudetowardsgreenfashionmarketing
campaigns.Therefore,thefollowinghypothesiswascreated:
H6:Consumerswhofindfashionhighlyimportanthaveamorepositive attitude
towardsthebrand.
41
H7:Consumerswhofindenvironmental,eco-fashionandpositiveattitudetowards
thebrandG-Starhaveamorepositiveattitudetowardsthecampaign.
5.4Researchmodels
Thefirstmodel(model1)analyzedtherelationshipbetweenattitudeandbehaviorfor
fashioninvolvement,environmentalinvolvement,eco-fashioninvolvement,andbrand
involvement.Thesecondmodel(model2)examinedtherelationshipbetweenfashion
attitude,environmentalattitude,andeco-fashionattitude.This,modelalsoanalyzedthe
relationshipbetweenfashioninvolvement,environmentalinvolvement,andeco-fashion
involvement.Furthermore,analysesthismodelalsotherelationshipbetweenfashionand
brandattitude.Thethirdmodel(model3)measuredtherelationshipbetween
environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitude,brandattitude,andcampaignattitude.
42
5.4.1Model1:Attitudeandbehavior
Figure1avisualizestheimplicationoftheliteraturethatone’sattitudeinfluenceshisorher
behavioronwhichmodeloneisbuilt.Figure1bvisualizestherelationbetween
environmental,eco-fashionandfashionattitudebetweenwillingnesstopayforthismodel
Figure1aAttitudebehaviormodel
Table5.7showsthevariablestakenintoaccountfortheattitudebehaviormodel.
Thecorrelationsbetweenfashion,environmentalandeco-fashionattitude,genderandage
asindependentsandfashion,environmental,eco-fashionbehaviorandDWPjeansas
dependentvariablesweremeasuredinseveralregressionanalyzes.
Figure1bWillingnesstopay
43
Table5.7:model1attitudeandbehavior
Concept
Operationalization
Coding
Variable
type/range
Dependentvariables
FB
Fashionbehavior-money
Onaverage,howmuchdo
youspendonfashion-
relateditemspermonth?
Open(amountofmoneyspentin€)
Interval/
ratio
EB
Totalnumberof
environmentalactions(EB).
Scalefrom0-10(extremelyuninvolvedto
extremelyinvolvedbehavior)
Interval/
ratio
EFB
Totalnumberofeco-fashion
actions(EB).
Scalefrom0-10(extremelyuninvolvedto
extremelyinvolvedbehavior)
Interval/ratio
DWPJEANS
Differenceinwillingnessto
payforasustainable
comparedtoanon-
sustainablejeans
(DWPJEANS)
Open(in€)
Interval/ratio
BB
Howmuchdidyouspendon
G-starpurchaseslastyear?
Open(in€)
Interval/
ratio
44
independentvariables
FA
Fashionattitude(FA)
Howimportantisfashionto
you?
Scalefrom0-10(extremelyunimportant-
extremelyimportant)
Interval/
Ratio
EA Environmentalattitude(EA)
Howimportantis
environmentalsustainability
toyou?
Scalefrom0-10(extremelyunimportant-
extremelyimportant)
Interval/
Ratio
EFA Eco-fashionattitude(EFA)
Howimportantis
sustainabilityinthefashion
industrytoyou?
Scalefrom0-10(extremelyunimportant-
extremelyimportant)
Interval/
Ratio
BA Brandattitude
HowmuchdoyoulikeG-Star
asabrand?
Scale0-10(extremedislike-extremelike) Interval/
Ratio
Gender
Whatisyourgender?
1. Male
2. Female
Interval/
ratio
Age
Whatisyourage?
Listofpossibleagesfrom16-40years-old
Interval/ratio
45
5.4.2Model2:Eco-fashionattitude/involvementandBrandattitude
Thesecondmodelvisualizedinfigure2ameasuredtherelationbetweenthefashionand
attitude/involvementandtheenvironmentalattitude/involvementasindependent
variablesandeco-fashionattitude/involvement.Furthermore,thismodelmeasuredthe
relationbetweenthefashionattitudeasindependentvariableandthebrandattitudeas
dependentvariable,whichisvisualizedinfigure2b.Table5.8showsallthevariablesused
forthismodel.
Figure2aEco-fashionattitudeandinvolvementmodel
Table5.8:modeleco-fashionattitudeandinvolvement
Concept Operationalization Coding Variable
type/range
Dependentvariable
EFA Eco-fashionattitude(EFA)
Howimportantdoyoufind
sustainabilityinthefashion
industry?
Scalefrom0-10(extremelyunimportant-
extremelyimportant)
Interval/Ratio
BA Brandattitude(BA)
Scalefrom0-10(extremedislike-extreme
like)
Interval/Ratio
46
HowmuchdoyoulikeG-Star
asabrand?
EFI EFA+3.33(EFB) Scalefrom0-20(extremelyuninvolved-
extremelyinvolved)
Interval/Ratio
independentvariables
EA
Environmentalattitude(EA)
Howimportantis
environmentalsustainability
toyou?
Scalefrom0-10(extremelyuninvolved-
extremelyinvolved)
Interval/ratio
FA
Fashionattitude(FA)
Howimportantis
environmentalsustainability
toyou?
Scalefrom0-10(extremelyimportant-
extremelyunimportant)
Interval/ratio
EI
EA+2(EB)
Scalefrom0-20(extremelyuninvolved-
extremelyinvolved)
Interval/ratio
Gender
Whatisyourgender?
1. Male
2. Female
Interval/ratio
Age
Whatisyourage?
Listofpossibleagesfrom16-40years-old
Interval/ratio
47
5.4.3Model3:CampaignAttitude
Figurethreevisualizesthecampaignattitudemodelandhowalltheinfluentialfactorsrelate
toeachother.Table9showsthatthemodelmeasuredthecorrelationsamong
environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitude,andbrandattitude(independentvariables)
andcampaigneffect(dependentvariable)inregressionanalyses.Thereasonthismodelonly
consistedoftheattitudinalvariableswasthatonly16%oftherespondentshadpurchaseda
G-Stariteminthelastyear,whileonly13%oftherespondentsfamiliarwiththecampaign
hadboughtsomethingfromtheRawfortheOceancollection.Ifthebehavioralvariableshad
beenincluded,falsecorrelationswouldhaveemerged.
Figure3:ModelofCampaignAttitude
48
Table5.9:variablesmodel3campaignattitude
Concept Operationalization Coding Variabletype/range
Dependentvariable
CA
Campaignattitude
Howmuchdoyoulike
thecampaign?
Scalefrom0-10
(extremedislikeextreme
like)
Interval/
Ratio
Independentvariables
EA
Environmentalattitude
Howimportantis
environmental
sustainabilitytoyou?
Scalefrom0-10
(extremedislikeextreme
like)
Interval/ratio
EFA
Eco-fashionattitude
Howimportantis
sustainabilitytoyou?
Scalefrom0-10
(extremelyuninvolved-
extremelyinvolved)
Interval/ratio
BA
Brandattitude
HowmuchdoyoulikeG-
Starasabrand?
Scalefrom0-10
(extremedislikeextreme
like)
Interval/ratio
49
5.5ValidityandReliability
Averysmallsampleentailstheriskofoverfittingthemodel.Theruleforlogisticregressions
istouse10casesforeachvariable.Forthisstudy’ssample(N=167),themaximumsuggested
numberofvariablesthuswas16.Inthefinalmodels30variableswereused.Thisfigure
exceededtheadvisedmaximumandthereforemighthaveresultedintheoverfittingofthe
model.However,itwouldnotbepossibletocarryoutthisstudyusingfewervariables.
Furthermore,indexingalsomulticollinearityproblem,whichisnotaconcern,sincethere
werenosignificantcorrelations(>0.9)detectedforthevariables(Field,2013).
Duetothesmallsamplesize,outliersposedariskwhenperformingtheregression
analyses.Therefore,thevariables’z-valueswerecalculated.Followingthez-scoresshould
notexceed3.29.However,onoccasionswhenthiswasthecase,thescorewasreplacedby
thesumofthesamplemeanandthreetimesthestandarddeviation(Field,2013).
Table5.10:CorrelationCoefficientsoftheRegressionModelVariables
Age Gender Wpay
Jeans
FA EA EFA FI EI EFI BA CA
Age 1.00
Gender 0.20 1.00
DWP
Jeans
0.41 -0.21 1.00
FA -0.01 -0.14 0.13 1.00
EA -0.08 -0.11 0.29 -0.01 1.00
EFA 0.17 -0.09 0.49 -0.02 0.76 1.00
FI 0.20 -0.13 0.29 0.77 .044 .06 1
EI -0.01 -0.08 0.29 -0.07 0.70 0.56 0.04 1.00
EFI 0.14 0.08 0.07 0.08 -0.26 0.56 0.56 0.74 1.00
BA -0.02 0.04 0.01 0.46 0.17 0.16 0.32 0.05 -0.12 1.00
CA -0.22 0.18 0.03 0.17 0.27 0.10 0.06 0.36 0.18 0.18 1.00
50
VI.Results
Thischapterprovidesanoverviewofthestatisticalfindings.Datawascollectedandcodedin
accordancewiththemanualexplainedinthepreviouschapter.Thestructureofthechapter
isasfollows.First,descriptivestatisticswereanalyzed.Secondpartincludestheresultsof
theregressionanalysesoftheattitudeandbehaviormodel.Thethirdpartelaboratesonthe
differencesbetweenenvironmentalinvolvementandeco-fashioninvolvement.Thefourth
sectiondiscussestheregressionanalysesoftheeco-fashioninvolvementmodel.Thefifth
partprovidesinsightinmodelcampaigninvolvementmodelandthecampaigneffectson
consumers.
6.1Descriptivestatistics
Thefollowingsectiondescribesthemainpointregardingthedescriptivestatisticsforthe
groups:demographics,fashioninvolvement,environmentalinvolvement,eco-fashion
involvement,brandinvolvement,andcampaigninvolvementandeffect.
51
Table6.1Descriptivestatistics
N Minimum Maximum Mean Median Mode Std.Dev.
Age 167 16.00 40.00 25.60 27.00 27.00 6.29
FA 167 2.00 10.00 6.87 7.00 7.00 1.61
FB(€) 166 0.00 800.00 120.72 100.00 100.00 110.56
EA 167 1.00 8.00 7.58 8.00 8.00 1.55
EB 167 0.00 5.00 2.50 3.00 3.00 1.20
EFA 167 0.00 10.00 6.98 7.00 7.00 1.98
FB 167 0.00 3.00 1.57 2.00 1.00 0.93
WPNJeans(€) 167 0.00 250.00 66.00 60.00 50.00 40.94
WPSJeans(€) 167 10.00 350.00 89.88 80.00 100.00 48.80
DWPJeans(€) 167 0.00 160.00 25.40 20.00 0.00 30.11
BA 163 1.00 10.00 6.41 7.00 7.00 1.51
BB 26 0.00 450.00 25.78 0.00 0.00 77.97
CA 48 5.00 10.00 8.17 8.00 8.00 1.40
CB(€) 48 0.00 159.00 100.00 100.00 0.00
FI(0-10) 166 3.00 17.00 8.86 9.00 9.00 2.42
EI(0-10) 167 3.00 20.00 12.59 13.00 14.00 3.23
EFI(0-10) 167 0.00 20.00 12.23 12.66 13.67 4.16
6.1.1Demographics
Thesampleconsistsof167respondentsaged16to40years-old,wholivedinThe
NetherlandswhilethecampaignRawfortheOceanCampaignfromG-Starwasrunning,
whichwasbetweenAugust2014andAugust2016.Therespondents’genderis67.70%
femaleand32.20%male.Thisunevendistributioncaninfluencetheaveragescoreofthe
groupsenvironmentalinvolvementandeco-fashioninvolvement,sinceseveralauthors
arguethatwomenaremoreenvironmentalsustainableinvolvedcomparedtomen.
Furthermore,theyseemtobewillingtopaymoreforsustainablefashionthanmen.
52
Table6.2FrequencyofAgeGroups
AgeGroups
Frequency Percent ValidPercent Cumulative
Percent
Valid
16-20 43 25.70 25.70 25.70
21-25 32 19.20 19.20 80.20
26-30 59 35.30 35.30 93.41
31-35 22 13.20 13.20 100.00
36-40 11 6.60 6.60
Total 164 100.00 100.00
Intable6.2theresultofthefrequencyanalysisoftheparticipants’ageshowsthat
themajorityoftheparticipantsarebetween26and30yearsold(59,35.30%)andquite
equaldistributedovertheagegroups.Exceptformtheoldestagegroup,whichonlyconsists
ofasmallpartoftheparticipants(11,6.60%).Theresultintable6.1showsthattheaverage
ageoftheparticipantsis26yearsold,withastandarddeviationof6years.
Theemploymentstatusconsistsof56.90%employedrespondents,38.30%arestudentsand
4.80%unemployedrespondents.
Table6.3EducationLevel
AgeGroups Frequency Percent Valid
Percent
Cumulative
Percent
Valid
MiddleSchool 1 0.60 0.60 0.60
HighSchool 45 26.90 26.90 27.50
MBO/Community
College
11 36.60 36.60 34.10
AppliedSience 38 22.80 22.80 56.90
University 72 43.10 43.10 100.00
Total 167 100.00 100.00
53
Intable6.3theresultofthefrequencyanalysisoftheparticipant’seducationlevel
showsthatthemajorityoftheparticipantspossessauniversitydegree(72,41.10%).
Anotherlargeamountofrespondentsarehighschoolstudents(27.50%).Thisisduetothe
factthattheagegroupbetween16and20yearsoldisratherlarge(43,25.70%).
6.1.2Fashioninvolvement
Thefashioninvolvementconsistsofthefashionattitudeandfashionbehaviorvariables.The
variablefashionattitudemeasureshowimportantconsumersfindfashiononascalefrom0-
10.Thevariablesfashionbehaviorismeasuredbythevariableshoppingfrequency,which
measureshowoftenrespondentsgoshoppingforfashion-relateditems,andmonthly
shoppingexpenses,whichmeasureshowmuchrespondentsspendpermonthonfashion-
relateditems.
Table6.4FashionAttitude
Fashion
Importance
Frequency Percent Valid
Percent
Cumulative
Percent
Valid
0 0 0.00 0.00 0.00
1 0 0.00 0.00 0.00
2 2 1.20 1.20 1.20
3 8 4.80 4.80 6.00
4 8 4.80 4.80 10.80
5 9 5.40 5.40 16.20
6 21 12.60 12.60 28.70
7 54 32.30 32.30 61.10
8 50 29.90 29.90 91.00
9 12 7.20 7.20 98.20
10 3 1.80 1.80 100.00
Total 167 100.00 100.00
Table6.4displaystheresultofthefrequencyanalysisoffashionattitude,which
includestheimportanceoffashion.Itshowsthatthetwolargestgroupsarerespondents
whoscoreda7(54,32.30%)andan8(50,29.90%)onascalefrom0-10.16.20%ofall
respondentshaveamorenegativeattitudeandgradetheimportanceoffashionbelowa6.
54
Theresultsintable6.1showthatconsumersscorea6.87onaverageonhowimportant
fashionistothem.Inconclusion,itcanbesaidthattherespondentsinthissamplefind
fashionimportant.
Table6.5,whichdisplaystheresultofthefrequencyanalysisofthemonthlyshopping
expenses,showsthatthemajorityspendsbetween€0.00-€100.00permonth.Almostallof
therespondents(96.40%)spendlessthan€300.00permonth.Only4.60%ofthe
respondentsspendsbetweenthe€300.00-€800.00onfashion-relateditemspermonth,with
amaximumof€800.00permonth(1,0.60%)spendonfashionrelateditemspermonth.The
resultsintable6.1showthattherespondentsspend€120.00permonthonaverage,with
standarddeviationof€110.56.Theshoppingfrequencyofmostrespondentsisonceevery
month(74,44.30%)andonceeverythreemonths(31.70%),14.40%shoptwiceayearorless
and9.60%shoponceaweekormore.
Table6.5Monthlyexpenses
Fashion
Attitude
Frequency Percent Valid
Percent
Cumulative
Percent
Valid
0-100 114 68,30 68.70 68.70
100-200 28 16.80 16.90 85.50
200-300 18 10.80 10.80 96.40
300-400 3 1.80 2.40 98.20
400-500 1 0.60 0.60 98.80
500-600 1 0.60 0.60 97.40
600-700 0 0.00 0.00 97.40
700-800 1 0.60 0.60 100.00
Total 166 99,40 100,0
55
6.1.3Environmentalinvolvement
Theenvironmentalinvolvementconsistsoftheenvironmentalattitudeandenvironmental
behaviorvariables.Thevariableenvironmentalattitudemeasureshowimportantconsumers
findenvironmentsustainabilityonascalefrom0-10.Thevariablesenvironmentalbehavior
bythetotalnumberofsustainableactionsapersontakesandthewhatkindofactionsa
persontakes.
Table6.6EnvironmentalAttitude
Environmental
Importance
Frequency Percent Valid
Percent
Cumulative
Percent
Valid
0 0 0.00 0.00 0.00
1 1 0.60 0.60 1.20
2 0 0.00 0.00 1.20
3 2 1.20 1.20 1.80
4 2 1.20 1.20 3.00
5 13 7.80 7.80 10.80
6 15 9.00 9.00 19.80
7 34 20.40 20.40 40.10
8 55 32.90 32.90 73.10
9 32 19.20 19.20 92.20
10 13 7.80 7.80 100.00
Total 167 100,00 100.00
Table6.6showstheresultofthefrequencyanalysisofrespondents’environmental
attitude,whichmeasureshowimportantenvironmentalsustainabilityisconsideredbythe
respondentsonascalefrom0-10.Themodeisan8(55,32.90%),followedbyascoreof7
(34,20.40%)andascoreof9(32,19.20%)asthesecondandthirdlargestgroup.Including
thescoreof10itmeansthat80.30%oftherespondentsscored7orhigher.Therefore,itcan
besaidthatmillennialsarestronglyenvironmentalinvolved,whichconfirmsthestatements
ofSmith(2010)regardingmillennials’attitudetowardsenvironmentalsustainability.Table
6.1showsthatthemeanis7.58,withastandarddeviationof1.55.
56
Table6.7TotalnumberofEnvironmentalBehavior
Numberof
Actions
Frequency Percent ValidPercent Cumulative
Percent
Valid
0 8 4.8 4.8 4.8
1 27 16.2 16.2 21.0
2 46 27.5 27.5 48.5
3 51 30.5 30.5 79.0
4 29 17.4 17.4 96.4
5 6 3.6 3.6 100.0
Total 167 100.0 100.0
Table17pointsouttheresultofthefrequencyanalysisofthetotalnumbersof
respondents’environmentalsustainableactionsintermsofenvironmentalsustainable
actionstheytake.Mostrespondentsperformedtwo(27.50%)orthree(30.50%)ofthefive
sustainableactions.Thescoreofthelowestnumberofactions‘zero’(8,4.80%)andthe
highestnumberofactions‘five’(6,3.60%)scorequitesimilar.
Table18frequencyactionstaken
Actions Frequency Percent
Valid
None 2 1.2
Wasteseparation 113 68.1
Consumerorganicfood 41 24.6
Limitoverallconsumption 78 46.70
Limitusewater/gas/
electricity
29 47.90
Transportation 109 65.30
Table6.8displaystheresultsofdistributionofthenumberofactionsdividedover
theseveralcategories.Themostlyengagedsustainableactionis‘wasteseparation’
(112,68.10%)andtransportationchoice(109,65.30%).However,onemustnotethatthe
57
highscoreoftheaction“transportation”isprobablyduetothelargenumberofstudents,
whoarenotallowedtodriveorcannotaffordothertransportationbesidescyclingorpublic
transportationonaregularbasis.InanurbanarealikeAmsterdam,whichiswhere80.00%
oftherespondentslive,cyclingorpublictransportationisthefastest,easiestandcheapest
waytogetaround.Therefore,therespondentsuseabikeoutofpracticalreasonsinsteadof
environmentalconcerns.Theaction,whichscoredthelowest(24,60%)istheconsumption
oforganicfood.Thereasonforthislowscoremightpossiblybethatpeopledonotwantto
sacrificepersonalneedsasmentionedinchapter2inordertobemoresustainable,
especiallystudentswhoarelivingonabudgetanyway.
6.1.4Eco-fashioninvolvement
Theeco-fashioninvolvementconsistsoftheeco-fashionattitudeandenvironmental
behaviorvariables.Thevariableenvironmentalattitudemeasureshowimportantconsumers
findsustainableproducedfashiononascalefrom0-10.Thevariableseco-fashionbehavior
bythetotalnumberofsustainableactionsapersontakesandthewhatkindofactionsa
persontakes.
Table6.9Eco-FashionAttitude
Eco-
Fashion
Importance
Frequency Percent Valid
Percent
Cumulative
Percent
Valid
0 3 1.80 1.80 1.80
1 0 0.00 0.00 1.20
2 4 2.40 2.40 4.20
3 1 0.60 0.60 4.80
4 5 3.00 3.00 7.80
5 14 8.40 8.40 16.20
6 32 19.20 19.20 35.30
7 44 26.30 26.30 61.70
8 29 17.40 17.40 79.00
9 18 10.80 10.80 89.80
10 17 10.20 10.20 100.00
Total 167 100.00 100.0
58
Theresultofthefashioninvolvementintable6.9showsthatmostrespondentsscore
a5(58,34.90),followedbya4(43,25.90)and6(29,17.50%).Theresultsoftable6.9show
thatthelargestgroupofrespondentsgradetheimportanceofsustainabilityinthefashion
industrywitha7(44,26.30%)onascalefrom0-10,followedbya6(32,19.20%)andan8
(29,17.40%),asthesecondandthirdlargestgroup.Table6.1showsthatthemeanis6,98,
whichislowerthanthegradetherespondentsgivetheimportanceofenvironmental
sustainability.Inordertotestwhetherthisdifferenceissignificantanindependentsamplet-
testisperformedinthenextchapter.
Table6.10Totalnumberofeco-fashionactions
Numberof
Actions
Frequency Percent Valid
Percent
Cumulative
Percent
Valid
0 20 12.00 12.00 12.00
1 62 37.10 37.10 49.10
2 54 32.30 32.30 81.40
3 31 18.60 18.60 100.00
Total 167 100.00 100.00
Theresultsoftable6.10showthatthelargestgroupofrespondentsperform1eco-
fashionaction.Outof4sustainableactsthatweregiveninthesurvey,12.00%didnot
performanyactions,37.30%performed2sustainableactsand18.60%performed3acts.
Table6.11frequencyofeco-fashionactions
NumberofActions Frequency Percent
Valid
None 19 1.2
Recycle 124 74.70
Purchaseenvironmental
friendly
66 39.50
Expandthetimetowear
clothes
74 44.30
59
Theresultsintable6.11showsthatmostrespondents(124,74.70%)makesure,that
theclothestheydonotwearanymoreandwanttothrowout,endupinrecycling,by
bringingthemtospecialcontainers,givingthemawayorsellingthemonthe2ndhand
market.Thisresultisfollowedbyrespondents(74,44.30%),whoexpandthetimetheycan
usetheirclothes,byrepairing,changingordyingthem.Therespondents,whopurchase
environmentalfriendlyclothesbychoosingforsustainablebrandorbuyingsecondhand,
consistsof39,50%oftherespondents.Therespondentswhoperformnoeco-fashionactions
arethesmallestgroupandandconsistof19.00%.
Anotherwaytomeasureeco-fashionattitudeandbehavioratthesametimeisthe
willingnesstopayforsustainableclothes.Inordertomeasurethewillingnesstopaythe
respondentswereaskedwhattheyarewillingtopayforanon-sustainablejeansand
sustainablejeans.Table6.1showsthataveragewillingnesstopayis€66.17foranon
sustainablejeansand€89.88forasustainablejeans.
60
6.1.5Brandinvolvement
Thebrandinvolvementconsistsofthefashionbrandandfashionbehaviorvariable.The
variablebrandattitudemeasureshowmuchtheconsumerslikethebrandG-Staronascale
from0-10.Thevariablesbrandbehaviorismeasuredbytheamountofmoneythe
consumersspendonG-Starproductsthelastyear.
Table6.12BrandAttitude
Brand
Attitude
Frequency Percent Valid
Percent
Cumulative
Percent
Valid
0 0 0.00 0.00 0.00
1 1 0.60 0.60 0.60
2 3 1.80 1.80 2.50
3 3 1.80 1.80 4.30
4 8 4.80 4.90 9.20
5 22 13.20 13.50 22.70
6 42 25.10 25.80 48.50
7 45 26.90 27.60 76.10
8 32 19.20 19.60 95.70
9 6 3.60 3.70 99.40
10 1 0.60 0.60 100.00
Total 163 97.60 100.0
Fromthealltherespondentsinthesamplewas97,60%oftherespondentswere
familiarwiththebrandG-Star,thereforeitcanbesaidthatG-Starisaverywellknown
brand.Table12showthatmostrespondentsscorea7(45,27.60%)ora6(42,25.80%)for
brandattitude.Table6.1showsthattheaveragebrandattitudeis6,41.Therefore,itcanbe
saidthatG-Starisnotverypopular,butalsonotveryunpopularforthepeopleinthis
sample.
Thebrandbehaviorinthissampleisverylow,sinceonly11.98%hasboughtG-Star
itemsoverthelastyear.ThoserespondentswhopurchasedG-Staritemsspent€200.00on
averageonG-theseitems,withastandarddeviationof108.97.Thelowestamountofmoney
spentis€50.00andthehighestamountofmoneyspentis€450.00.
61
6.1.6Campaigninvolvement
Thecampaigninvolvementismeasuredbycampaignattitudeandbehavior.Thevariable
campaignattitudemeasureshowmuchtheconsumersliketheRawfortheOceancampaign.
Thevariablecampaignbehaviorismeasuredbytheamountofmoneytheconsumersspend
onproductsfromtheRawfortheOceancampaign.
Table6.13CampaignAttitude
Campaign
Attitude
Frequency Percent Valid
Percent
Cumulative
Percent
Valid
0 0 0.00 0.00 0.00
1 0 0.00 0.00 0.00
2 0 0.00 0.00 0.00
3 0 0.00 0.00 0.00
4 0 0.00 0.00 0.00
5 2 4.20 4.20 4.20
6 6 12.50 12.50 16.70
7 0 0.00 0.00 16.70
8 27 56.30 56.30 72.90
9 0 0.00 0.00 0.00
10 13 27.10 27.10 100.00
Total 48 100,00 100.00
Table6.13showthatthecampaignawarenesswasmeasured,only28.70%ofthe
respondentswasfamiliarwiththecampaign.However,thisgrouplikedthecampaignalot,
sincetheresultsintableshowthatmostpeoplegradethecampaignattitudean8(56.30,
32.90%),followedbya10(13,27.10%).Table6.1showsthattheaveragecampaignattitude
is8.17.
Thecampaignbehaviorofthecampaignislow,sinceonly16.70%oftherespondents
boughtanitemfromthecampaign,withanaverageexpenditureof€104.14,withastandard
deviationof€35.36.Thelowestamountofmoneyspentis€60.00andthehighestamount
ofmoneyspentis€159.00.
62
6.1.7Campaigneffect
Thecampaigneffectonconsumerswasmeasuredbythechangeinbrandattitude,changein
environmentalattitudeandchangeineco-fashionattitude.
Table6.14“DuetothecampaignIlikeG-Starmoreasabrand.”
BrandAttitude Frequency Percent ValidPercent Cumulative
Percent
Valid
Stronglydisagree 1 0,60 2,10 2,10
Disagree 6 3,60 12,50 14,60
Neitheragreenor
disagree
15 9,00 31,30 45,80
Agree 18 10,80 37,50 83,30
StronglyAgree 8 4,80 16,70 100,00
Total 48 28,70 100,00
Theresultsintable6.14showthat54.20%oftherespondentshadexperienceda
positiveincreaseoftheirbrandattitudeduetothecampaign,37.50%agreedwiththeposed
statementand16.70%stronglyagreed.Therefore,itcanbesaidthattheRawfortheOcean
campaignhasapositiveeffectonthebrandimage.
Table6.15“DuetothecampaignIfindsustainabilitymoreimportant.”
BrandAttitude Frequency Percent ValidPercent Cumulative
Percent
Valid
Stronglydisagree 1 0,60 2,10 2,10
Disagree 11 6,60 22,90 25,00
Neitheragreenor
disagree
24 14,40 50,00 75,00
Agree 11 6,60 22,90 97,90
StronglyAgree 1 0,60 2,10 100,00
Total 48 28,70 100,00
63
Theresultsintable6.15showthataquarter(12,25.00%)oftherespondentshad
experiencedapositiveincreaseoftheirenvironmentalattitudeduetothecampaign.Most
respondentsneitheragreenordisagree50.00%.Theenvironmentalbehaviorhasfornoneof
therespondentsbeenaffectedbythecampaign.
Table6.16CampaignDuetothecampaignIfindsustainablefashionmoreimportant
BrandAttitude Frequency Percent ValidPercent Cumulative
Percent
Valid
Stronglydisagree 2 1,20 4,30 4,30
Disagree 8 4,80 17,40 21,70
Neitheragreenor
disagree
17 10,20 37,00 58,70
Agree 16 9,60 34,80 93,50
StronglyAgree 3 1,80 6,50 100,00
Total 46 27,50 100,00
Theresultsintable6.16showthat40.30%oftherespondentshadexperienceda
positiveincreaseoftheireco-fashionattitudeduetothecampaign.Analmostequalnumber
ofrespondentsneitheragreesnordisagreeswiththestatementandtheeco-fashion
behaviorhasfornoneoftherespondentsbeenaffectedbythecampaign.
64
6.2Model1:AttitudeandBehavior
First,theattitudeandbehaviormodelutilizedaregressionanalysistoassesshowthe
respondents’attitudesinfluencedtheirbehavior.Thefirstpartinvolvedthevariablesfashion
attitudeandbehavior,whilethesecondpartmeasuredrespondents’environmental
attitudesandbehavior,thethirdparteco-fashionattitudeandbehavior,andthefourthpart
brandattitudeandbehavior.
6.2.1Fashionattitudeandfashionbehavior
Theregressionmodelintable6.17usingtheamountofmoney(in€)spentpermonthon
fashion-relateditemsasthedependentvariableandfashionattitudeastheindependent
variablewassignificant,F(1,164)=18,39,p<0.05.Thismodelwasthususefulforpredicting
theamountofmoney(in€)spenteachmonthonfashion-relateditems,butitspredictive
powerwasweak:Only10.10%ofthevarianceinmonthlyexpenditurescouldbepredicted
basedonfashionattitude(R2=0.10).FashionAttitude,b*=0.32,t=4.29,p<0.05,95%CI
[11.75,31.79].Foreachgradethefashionattitudeincreases,theestimatedmonetary
expenditureonfashion-relateditemsincreasedby€0.03.
Table6.17Regressionmodelpredictingfashionbehavior(N=166).
Fashionbehavior
Modelb*
CONSTANT
FA
-28.78
0.32
R2
F
0.10
18.39
Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels~p<.05
65
6.2.2environmentalattitudeandenvironmentalbehavior
Theregressionmodelintable6.18employingthenumberofenvironmentallyoriented
actionsasthedependentvariableandenvironmentalattitudeastheindependentvariable
wassignificant,F(1,165)=18.80,p<0.05.Thisregressionmodelthushelpedtopredictthe
totalnumberenvironmentalactionsundertaken,butitspredictivepowerwasweak:10.20%
ofthevarianceintotalnumberenvironmentalactionsundertakencanbepredictedbased
ontheenvironmentalattitude(R2=0.10).Environmentalattitude,b*=0.32,t=4.34,p
<0.05,95%CI[0.23,0.60].Foreachgradetheenvironmentalattitudeincreases,the
estimatednumberofenvironmentalfriendlyactionsincreasedby0.15.
Table6.18Regressionmodelpredictingenvironmentalactions(N=166).
Environmentalbehavior
Modelb*
Constant
EA
6.55
0.32
R2
F
0.10
18.80
Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels~p<.05
66
6.2.3Eco-fashionattitudeandeco-fashionbehavior
Theregressionmodelintable6.19treatingthenumberofenvironmentallyorientedactions
asthedependentvariableandenvironmentalattitudeastheindependentvariablewas
significant,F(1,165)=18.80,p<0.05.Theregressionmodelwasthususefulforpredicting
thenumberenvironmentalactions,butthepredictivepowerwasweak:10.20%ofthe
differencesinamountofmoneyspendcanbepredictedbasedonthefashionattitude(R2=
0.10).Eco-fashionattitude,b*=0.32,t=4.34,p<0.05,95%CI[0.08,0.22].Foreachgrade
theeco-fashionattitudeincreases,theestimatednumberofenvironmentalfriendlyactions
increasedby0.66.Concludingitcanbesaidthattheenvironmentalattitudeandbehavior
relatesimilartoeachotherastheEnvironmentalAttitude.
Table6.19Regressionmodelpredictingthenumberofeco-fashionactions(N=167).
Eco-fashionbehavior
Modelb*
Constant
EFA
0,50
0.32
R2
F
0.10
18.40
Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels~p<.05
6.2.4Willingnesstopayforsustainablejeans.
Theregressionmodelintable6.20usingthedifference(in€)betweenrespondents’
willingnesstopayforsustainableversusnon-sustainablejeans(DWPjeans)asthedependent
variableandgender,age,fashionattitude,environmentalattitude,andeco-fashionattitude,
eco-asindependentvariableswassignificant,F(1,158)=4,26,p<0.05.Thus,thismodel
waspartiallyabletopredictthedifferencebetweenconsumers’willingnesstopay(in€)for
sustainablejeansversusnon-sustainablejeans.However,itspredictivepowerwasweak:
Only11.90%ofthismonetarydifferencecouldbepredictedbasedonfashionattitude(R2=
0.11).Gender,b*=-0.03,t=-0.43,p>0.05,95%.
67
Fashionattitude,b*=0.06,t=0.74,p>0.05,95%CI[-0.70,3.74].EnvironmentalAttitude,b*
=0,08,t=0.90,p>0.05,95%CI[-1.75,4.68]hadnosignificantcorrelation.Eco-fashion
attitude,b*=0,22,t=2.45,p<0.05,95%CI[0.65,6.00]hadamoderatecorrelation,while
agedemonstratedaweakassociation,b*=0,19,t=2.40,p<0.05,95%CI[0.15,1.58].For
everygradetheeco-fashionattitudeincreased,theanticipatedamountthatpeoplewould
bewillingtopaymoreforsustainablejeansversusnon-sustainablejeansgrewby€3.32.For
eachyearofage,theamountthattherespondentswereexpectedtobewillingtospendfor
sustainablejeansversusnon-sustainablejeansincreasedby€0.86.
Table6.20Regressionmodelpredictingdifferenceinwillingnesstopayforjeans(N=166).
Differenceinwillingness
topayforjeans
Modelb*
Constant
Gender
Age
FA
EA
EFA
-35.21
-0.03
0.19
0.06
0.08
0.22
R2
F
0.078
14.06
Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels~p<.05
68
6.2.5Brandattitudeandbrandbehavior
Theregressionmodelintable6.21usedtheamountofmoneyspentinthepastyearonG-
Staritems(MF-Brand)asthedependentvariableandbrandattitudeastheindependent
variablewassignificant,F(1,161)=7.23,p<0.05.Thisregressionmodelwasthususefulfor
predictingthenumberenvironmentalactions,althoughitsexplanatorypowerwasweak:
Only4.30%ofthevarianceinmoneyspentonG-Starproductscouldbepredictedonthe
basisofbrandattitude(R2=0.04).Brandbehavior,b*=0.21,t=2.08,p<0.05,95%,CI[2.91,
19.02].Foreachgradethebrandattitudeincreases,theestimatedexpenditureonG-Star
productsincreasedby€10.96.
Table6.21Regressionmodelpredictingbrandbehavior(N=166).
Brandbehavior
Modelb*
Constant
BA
-43.97
10.97
R2
F
0.04
7.23
Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels~p<.05
6.3Environmentalattitudevseco-fashionattitude
Thissectionprovidesaninsightinthefirstresearchquestionthataskswhetherthefactor
environmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitudearesimilarandthereforecanbeone
variableinsteadoftwo,sincenotmanystudiesmakeacleardifferencebetweenthetwo
althoughtheystatethatthosefactorsaredifferentfromeachother.Theone-samplet-test
isperformedtocompareifthesamplemeansofenvironmentalattitudeandeco-fashion
attitudedifferfromeachother.Theenvironmentalattitudescoreddifferentintests(M=7.58
SD=1.55)comparedtowhatisconsideredingeneral,t(166)=5.02,p=0.00.The
environmentalattitudescoreddifferentintests(M=6.99SD=1.92)comparedtowhatis
consideredingeneral,t(166)=-3.95,p=0.00.Itcanbeconcludedthatthesamplemeansof
69
environmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitudediffersignificantly.Therefore,isitnot
possibletocombineenvironmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitude.
6.4Model2Eco-fashionattitudeandinvolvement
Thispartanalysestoanswerthesecondresearchquestion,whichaskstowhatextendthe
consumers’gender,age,fashionattitudeandenvironmentalattitude/involvementaffect
eco-fashionattitudeandinvolvement.
6.4.1:Eco-fashionattitude
Theregressionmodelintable6.22usingtheeco-fashionattitudescoreasthedependent
variableandfashionattitude,environmentalattitude,age,gender,educationlevel,and
incomeastheindependentvariableswassignificant,F(4,159)=19.41,p<0.05.The
regressionmodelwasthususefulforpredictingeco-fashionattitudebutitspredictivepower
wasmediocre:32.10%ofthevariancecouldbepredictedbasedonfashionattitude,
environmentalattitude,age,gender(R2=0.32).Fashioninvolvement,b*=0.19,t=2.91,p
<0.05,95%CI[0.079,0.41]hadasignificantcorrelationwitheco-fashioninvolvement.In
addition,bothgender,b*=0.19,t=2.81,p<0.05,95%CI[-0.44,-0.79]andage,b*=0.25,t
=2.51,p<0.05,95%CI[0.02,0.15]hadasignificantbutweakcorrelationwitheco-fashion
involvement.However,environmentalinvolvementhadasignificantandstrongcorrelation
witheco-fashioninvolvement.Environmentalinvolvement,b*=0.50,t=7.10,p<0.05,95%
CI[0.44,0.79].Foreachgradetheenvironmentalattitude,fashionattitudeandage
increased,theeco-fashionattitudeincreasedby0.62,0.24,0.08,and0.81,respectively.For
thefactorgendercanbesaidthattheeco-fashionattitudeis0.77higherthanformen.In
conclusion,highlyeco-fashioninvolvedindividualstendedtobefemale,older,andmore
interestedinenvironmentalsustainability.Inconclusion,femalestendedtoassignmore
importancetosustainablefashionthandidmales,asdidconsumerswhowereolderand
whofoundfashionandenvironmentalsustainabilitytobeparticularlysignificant.
70
Table6.22Regressionpredictingeco-fashionattitude(N=163).
Eco-fashionattitude(efa)
Model1b*
Constant
FA
EA
Age
Gender
-0.78
0.20
0.48
0.20
0.19
R2
F
0.29
22.69
Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels:~p<.05*
6.3.2Eco-fashioninvolvement
Theregressionmodelintable6.23usingtheeco-fashioninvolvementasthedependent
variableandfashioninvolvement,environmentalinvolvement,age,andgenderasthe
independentvariableswassignificant,F(4,158)=23.09,p<0.05.Thisregressionmodelthus
couldpartiallypredicttheeco-fashionattitude.Thatsaid,itspredictivepowerwasonly
mediocre:37.80%couldbepredictedbasedonfashionattitude,environmental
involvement,age,andgender(R2=0.37).Gender,b*=0.25,t=3.98,p<0.05,95%CI[1.13,
3.35]andage,b*=0.16,t=2.51,p<0.05,95%CI[0.02,0.19]hadasignificantweak
correlationwitheco-fashioninvolvement.Whileenvironmentalinvolvementhada
significantandstrongcorrelationEI,b*=0.52,t=8.24,p<0.05,95%CI[0.51,0.83].Fashion
involvement,ontheotherhand,didnothaveasignificantcorrelationwitheco-fashion
involvement,b*=0.09,t=1.44,p>0.05,95%CI[-0.06,0.38].Foreachgradethe
environmentalinvolvement,age,eco-fashioninvolvementgrewby0.67,0.12.Forthefactor
gendercanbesaidthattheeco-fashioninvolvementis2.28higherthanformen.In
conclusion,highlyeco-fashioninvolvedindividualstendedtobefemale,older,andmore
interestedinenvironmentalsustainability.
71
Table6.23Regressionmodelpredictingeco-fashioninvolvement(N=163).
Eco-fashioninvolvement(efi)
Model1b*
Constant
FI
EI
Age
Gender
-4.12*
0.09
0.05
0.16
0.25
R2
F
0.38
23.97
Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels:~p<.05*
72
6.4.3Brandattitude
Theregressionmodelintable6.24usingthebrandattitudescoreasthedependentvariable
andfashionattitudeindependentvariablewassignificant,F(1,161)=10.27,p<0.05.The
regressionmodelwasthususefulforpredictingconsumers’brandattitude,butitspredictive
powerwaslimited:16.50%couldbepredictedbasedonfashionattitude,(R2=0.16).,b*=
0.40,t=5.56,p<0.05,95%CI[0.45,0.51]hadasignificantcorrelationwiththefashion
involvement.Foreachgradethefashioninvolvementincreased,thebrandattitudescore
increasedby0.38points.Inconclusion,thoseconsumerswhoaremoreinvolvedintheword
offashionarealsoinvolvedwiththebrandG-Star.Therefore,thehypotheses…were
confirmed.
Table6.24Regressionmodel2predictingbrandattitude
Brandattitude(BA)
Model1b*
Constant
FA
3,79
0.40
R2
F
0.16
30.97
Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels:~p<.05*
6.5Model3:Campaigninvolvement
Theregressionmodelusingthecampaignattitudescorewasthedependentvariableand
fashionattitude,environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitude,andbrandattitudewerethe
independentvariables,wasnotsignificant,F(4,43)=1.63,p>0.05.Thustheregression
modelwasnothelpfulinpredictingconsumers’campaignattitudes.
73
VIIDiscussion&Conclusion
Thelastchapterofthisresearchpaperinvolvesthediscussion,conclusions,limitationsand
implicationsfortheoryandpractice.Thefirstpartprovidesashortsummaryoftheaimand
mainquestionofthisresearch,themostimportanttheoriesandconcepts.Thesecondpart
discussesthefindingsinrelationtoeachofthesubquestionsandprovidesproofwhether
thehypotheseswereconfirmedornot.Thethirdpartreflectsonthemostimportant
conclusionsregardingthisresearch.Thefourthpartprovidesinsightintothelimitationsof
theresearchpaper.Thefifthsectionprovidesrecommendationsforfutureresearchand
practice.
7.1Summary
Thepastfewyearshaveseenanincreaseinsustainabilityawarenessinthefashionindustry,
asevidencedbytheemergenceofsustainableinitiativesandcommercialcompanies
promotingtheirsustainabilitypractices.Therefore,brandshaveadoptedtheroleof
gatekeeperandcaninfluenceconsumers’choicesregardingeco-fashion(Leeetal.,2012).
Thefactorsthatcaninfluenceconsumers’choicesregardingeco-fashionarefashion
involvement,environmentalinvolvement,eco-fashioninvolvement,brandinvolvementand
campaigninvolvement.Involvementiscomprisedoftwofactors,whicharetheconsumers’
attitudeandbehavior.Therefore,thisstudy’sprimaryresearchquestionis:
Whatarethefactorsthataffectconsumers’choicesregardingeco-fashion?
Toanswerthisresearchquestion,thisstudyusedG-Star’sRawfortheOcean
campaignasacasestudy.Thisquantitativeresearchtooktheformofasurveyexecuted
amongmillennialslivingintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016.This
timeframereflectstheperiodthatthecampaignwasrunning.Thesamplewascollectedby
snowballsamplinginonlinespacesandrandomselectioninshoppingareasofAmsterdam.
Threemodelswereusedtoanswertheresearchquestion.Thefirstmodelmeasured
towhatextentconsumers’behaviorisaffectedbytheirattitude.Thesecondmodelanalyzed
howfashionattitude/involvement,environmentalattitude/involvementanddemographics
74
affecttheeco-fashionattitude/involvement.Thethirdmodelmeasuredtowhatextentthe
environmentalattitude,eco-fashionandbrandattitudeinfluencedthecampaignattitude.
Furthermore,wasresearchediftheconsumers’brandattitude,environmentalandeco-
fashioninvolvementhadchangedduetothecampaign.
7.2Researchquestions
Inordertoanswerthemainresearchquestion,sixsub-questionswereformulatedbasedon
thefactors,whichaffecttheconsumers’choicesregardingsustainablefashion.Importantfor
interpretationisthattheresultsinsection6.2showsthatthepredictivepowerofthe
attitudebehaviormodelwasweakandtheresultsinsection6.4.1and6.4.1showthatthe
predictivepoweroftheeco-fashionattitude/involvementmodelwasmediocre.
Furthermore,showssection6.4.3thatthemodelforpredictingthebrandattitudewas
weak.
1. Towhatextenddifferconsumer’senvironmentalattitudeandeco-fashion
attitudefromeachother?
Theresultsinsection6.3ofthetwoone-samplet-testsshowthatthesamplemeansof
environmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitudevariablessignificantlydifferedfromeach
other.
H1:Consumers’environmentalattitudeisnotsimilartotheireco-fashioninvolvement
andthereforethecorrelationswithothervariablesarenotthesame.
Theresultsinsection6.3ofthetwoone-samplet-testsshowthathypothesisonewas
confirmed.Concludedwasthatthetheoryregardingthedifferencesbetweenenvironmental
andeco-fashionconsciousnessfromChanandWong(2012)wascorrectandthereforethe
variableshavetobeusedseparately.
2. Towhatextentdoconsumers’demographics,fashionattitudeandenvironmental
attitudeaffecttheireco-fashionattitude?
75
Theresultsinsection6.4.1showinaregressionanalysisthatenvironmentalattitude,
fashionattitude,ageandgenderaffectedtheeco-fashionattitudepositively.
H2:Consumerswhoarefemale,youngerandhighlyfashionandenvironmentalare
alsohighlyeco-fashioninvolved.
Theresultsinsection6.4.1showthatthehypothesiswaspartlyaccepted.Consumerswho
werefemaleandfoundfashionandenvironmentalsustainabilityhighlyimportantfound
eco-fashionalsohighlyimportant.Theageaffectedtheeco-fashionattitudesignificantly,
butintheoppositedirection.Theresultsshowthattheoldertheconsumersinthesample
werethemoreimportanttheyfoundeco-fashion.
3. Towhatextentdoconsumers’demographics,fashioninvolvementandenvironmental
involvementaffecttheireco-fashioninvolvement?
Theresultsinsection6.4.2showinaregressionanalysisthatenvironmentalinvolvement,
fashioninvolvement,ageandgenderaffectedtheeco-fashioninvolvementpositively.
H3:Consumerswhowerefemale,youngerandhighlyfashioninvolvedand
environmentalinvolvementwerealsohighlyeco-fashioninvolved
Theresultsinsection6.4.2showthatthehypothesiswaspartlyaccepted.Consumerswho
werefemaleandwerehighlyfashionandenvironmentalinvolvedwerealsohighlyeco-
fashioninvolved.Theageaffectedtheeco-fashioninvolvementsignificantly,butinthe
oppositedirection.Theresultsshowthattheoldertheconsumersinthesamplewerethe
moreimportanttheyfoundeco-fashion.
4. Towhatextentdoesaconsumers'attitudeaffecttheirbehavior?
Section6.2showintheresultsoftheregressionanalysesthatconsumerswhoscorehigher
onfashion,environmental,eco-fashionattitude,scorealsohigherontherelatedbehavior
76
variable.However,thestrengthofthecorrelationdifferspergroup.Thefashion,
environmentalandeco-fashionattitudealsohaveapositiveinfluenceonthewillingnessto
pay.Furthermore,showtheresultsinsection6.3thatthefashionattitudeaffectedthe
brandattitudetowardsG-starpositively.
H4:Consumerswhoarefemaleandscorehigheronfashion,environmentalandeco-
fashionattitudearealsowillingtospendmoremoney(in€)on
sustainablefashion.
Theresultsinsection6.2.4showthathypothesisfourwaspartlyaccepted.Consumer’s
genderandeco-fashioninvolvementweretheonlyfactorsthataffectthewillingnesstopay
moreforsustainablefashion.
H5:Consumerswhofindenvironmentalsustainabilityandeco-fashionhighly
importantperformalsomoreenvironmentalandeco-fashionactions.
Theresultsinsection6.2.2and6.2.3showthatthehypothesiswasaccepted.Inconclusion,
consumers’environmentalandeco-fashionattitudeindeedaffectedconsumers’
environmentalandeco-fashionbehavior.
5. Towhatextentdoesconsumers’fashionattitudeaffecttheirbrandattitudetowards
G-Star?
Theresultsoftheregressionanalysisinsection6.4.3showthatconsumersfashionattitude
affectsconsumer’attitudetowardsthebrandG-Star.
H6:Consumerswhofindfashionhighlyimportanthaveamorepositiveattitude
towardsthebrand.
Theresultsinsection6.4.3thathypothesis6wasaccepted.Inconclusion,consumerswho
haveamorepositiveattitudetowardsfashionalsohaveamorepositiveattitudetowards
thebrandG-Star.
77
6. Towhatextentdoesconsumers’environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitude,and
brandattitudeaffecttheircampaignattitude?
Theresultsinsection6.5showthatmodel3hasnopredictivepoweroverthecampaign
attitude.Thefactorsenvironmental,eco-fashionandbrandattitudehavenopredictive
poweroverthecampaignattitude.
H7:Consumerswhohaveamorepositiveattitudetowards
environmental,eco-fashionandthebrandG-Starhaveamorepositiveattitude
towardsthecampaign.
Theresultsofsection6.5showthathypothesis7wasrejected.Therefore,itwasconcluded
thatenvironmental,eco-fashionandbrandattitudehasnotaffectedbythecampaign
attitude.
7. Towhatextentchangedthecampaignconsumers’brandattitude,environmentaland
eco-fashionattitudeandbehavior?
Theresultsinsection6.1.6showsthat54.20%oftheconsumersconfirmthattheirattitude
towardsthebrandG-Starhasincreasedduetothecampaign.Theenvironmentalattitude
hasincreasedfor25.00%oftherespondentsandtheeco-fashionattitudehasincreasedfor
40.30%oftherespondents.Theenvironmentalattitudeandbehaviorwerenotaffectedby
thecampaign.Therefore,wasconcludedthatthebrandattitudebenefitsthemostfromthe
sustainablefashionmarketingcampaigninthissample.
7.3Conclusions
Themainconclusionsofthisresearchareprovidedinthissection.
Thefirstconclusion,supportedbytheresultsinsection6.1,entailsthatmillennials
findenvironmentalandeco-fashionimportantandthattheyhaveahighenvironmentaland
eco-fashioninvolvement.ThisresultcorrespondswiththestatementfromSmith(2010)that
millennialshaveahighenvironmentalandeco-fashionattitude/involvement.
78
Thesecondconclusionstatesthattheenvironmentalattitudeandtheeco-fashion
attitudedifferfromeachotherandthereforeshouldbemeasuredseparately.Theresultsin
section6.3supportthisstatementwithtwoonesamplet-tests,comparingthesample
meansfrombothvariables.
Thethirdconclusionisthatconsumers,whoarefemale,olderandfind
environmentalsustainabilityhighlyimportantfindeco-fashionhighlyimportantaswell.This
conclusionissupportedbytheresultsinsection6.3.2.
Thefourthconclusioninvolvesthatfemales,whofindenvironmentalsustainability
andeco-fashionhighlyimportantarewillingtopaymoreforsustainablefashionthanmales
do.Thisconclusionissupportedbytheresultsinsection6.2.4.
Thefifthconclusionentailsthatconsumersfindenvironmentalsustainabilityhighly
importantperformalsomoreactionstolivemoreenvironmentalfriendly.Consumers’who
findeco-fashionhighlyimportantperformalsomoreactionstoconsumefashionmore
environmentalfriendly.Theseconclusionaresupportedbytheresultsinsection6.2.1.
Thesixthconclusionstatesthatthecampaignattitudecouldnotbepredictedby
environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitudeandcampaignattitude.Therefore,thefactors
havenotaffectedtheconsumers’attitudetowardstheRawfortheOceancampaign.A
possibleexplanationfortheresultisthatonly28.70%oftherespondentsinthesamplewas
familiarwiththeRawfortheOceancampaign.Furthermore,haveonly8respondents
purchaseditemsfromtheRawfortheOceancampaigncollection.Thisconclusionis
supportedbytheresultsinsection6.1.7and6.5.
Theseventhconclusionstatesthatthemajorityoftherespondentsinthissample
likedthebrandG-Starmoreduetothecampaign.ThustheRawfortheOceancampaignhas
hadapositiveeffectonG-Star’sbrandimage,whichcorrespondstothestatementofLeeet
al.(2012)whoclaims:agreenmarketingcampaignimprovesthecorporateimage.Theother
statementsfromLeeetal.(2012)thatagreenmarketingcampaigncanchangeconsumers’
environmentalandeco-friendlyattitudeandbehaviorwasnotsupportedbythemajorityof
therespondents.Thisconclusionissupportedbytheresultsinsection6.1.7.
Inordertoanswerthemainquestionconcludedcanbesaidthatthefactors,which
affectthechoicesregardingeco-fashionaretheconsumers’gender,age,fashionattitude/
involvement,environmentalattitude/involvementandeco-fashionattitude.Older
consumerswithinthemillennialgeneration,makemorepositivechoicesregardingeco-
79
fashionthanyoungerconsumerswithinthegeneration.Femalesfindeco-fashionmore
importantandaremoreeco-fashioninvolvedthanmen.Furthermore,ahighscoreregarding
environmentalattitude/involvement,fashionattitude/involvementandeco-fashionattitude
hasapositiveeffectonconsumers’eco-fashionchoices.
7.4Limitations
Thelimitationsofthisresearch,canbedividedintotwocategories:thesampleandthetime
frameoftheresearch.Thefirstlimitationregardsthegeographiclocationofthe
respondents.Inthesampleincludedonlypeople,wholivedintheNetherlands,whilethe
campaignwaspromotedglobally.Duetodifferentculture,socio-economicinfluencesand
governmentregulationsregardingsustainabilitytheeffectofthecampaignonconsumers
willbedifferentpercountry.ConsumersincountriessuchasSwedenandNorway,inwhich
thegovernmentisveryactiveinpromotingandsupportingenvironmentalsustainability,will
probablyresponddifferenttothecampaignthanconsumersinAsiancountries,where
environmentalsustainabilityisnotanimportantissueonthepoliticalagenda.
Thesecondlimitationconcernsthethetotalnumberofrespondents.Ifthesample
consistedofmorerespondents,itwouldhaveprobablybeenabetterrepresentationof
society.Therespondentsinthesamplehadamediocrebrandattitudeandalowbrand
behavior.Further,only8ofthe167respondentsboughtanitemfromtheRawfortheOcean
campaign.DuetothesmallsamplesizeitisnotclearifG-Starisamediocrebrandandthe
campaignwasafailureorifitisacoincidencethattherespondentsinthissamplearenot
hugefansfromG-Star.
Thethirdlimitationconcernsthestudy’stimeframe.Duetothechoiceforacross
sectionalanalysisitisnotpossibletomeasurepeople’sattitudeandbehaviorbeforethey
sawthecampaign.Therefore,thisresearchhastorelyonpeople’sopinionsabout
themselvesandthepast.Itispossiblethatpeoplewanttopresentthemselvesdifferently
thanreallyare.Itispossiblethattheywillaltertheirmemoryofthepastaccordingtothe
knowledgeoftoday.Iftheywereaskedatthatspecifictimetheiranswerswouldbe
different.Further,itisdifficulttoresearchwhenandhowpeoplegotincontactwiththe
campaignandwhattheeffectwasatthattimeontheirattitudeandbehavior.Inorderto
avoidthatproblem,anexperimentwouldbeapossibility,whereincampaignfootagewillbe
displayedtopeople.However,anexperimentalsettingistotallydifferentfromtheway
80
peoplegetincontactwithadvertisementinreallifeandthereforetheeffectwillisnot
same.
7.5RecommendationsforFutureResearchandthefashionindustry
Therecommendationsforfutureresearchistoincreasethesampleformorereliabilityand
betterrepresentationofthepopulation.Further,itisrelevanttoexpandthegeographic
scopeoftheresearchglobally.Itisrelevanttoseeifarebetweendifferencesbetween
countries.Furthermore,itisusefultomeasuretheeffectsofagreenmarketingcampaignin
alongitudinalresearch,whichavoidshavingtorelyonrespondent’sperceptionoftheir
attitudeandbehaviorinpast.Thelastrecommendationincludesthatitisrelevanttodo
moreresearch,thenisnowavailable,regardingthedifferencesbetweenenvironmental
involvementandeco-fashioninvolvement.
Therecommendationsforthefashionindustryinvolvetherelevanceofgreen
marketingcampaigns.Althoughthemodeltopredictcampaignattitudewasnotusefuland
thecampaignbehaviorintermsofproductsaleswaslowdoesnotimplicatethatgreen
fashionmarketingcampaignsdonotbenefitacompany.Theresultsinsection6.5showthat
theRawfortheOceancampaignhadapositiveeffectontherespondents’brandattitude.
Anotherargumentwhygreenfashionmarketingcampaignisrelevantforafashion
companyisduetotheconceptalsoknowastheCoca-ColaandPepsiadvertisement
phenomenon.LeadingbrandsuchasCocaColaandPepsistilladvertisealthoughitdoesnot
directlyincreasesales.HartmannandKlapperstudythisphenomenonforleadingsoda
brandsthatadvertiseduringthecommercialbreakoftheSuperBowl,whichisthemost
watchedAmericanTV-show.Theystatethattheleadingsodabrandshavetoadvertise
becauseotherleadingsodabrandsadvertisetoo.IfCocaColadecidesnottoadvertiseand
Pepsidecidestoadvertise,CocaColalosessalestoPepsi.However,iftheybothadvertiseno
onegainsorlosessales.Therefore,theCocaColaPepsiphenomenonappliestogreen
marketinginthefashionindustry.Becausecertainbrands/retailerspromotetheir
sustainabilitypractices,otherbrands/retailersareforcedtoadvertisetootoavoidthelossof
sales.
81
Furthermore,hasnotadvertisinganegativeimpactonthebrandimage.Thebrands
thatnotchosetoadvertisesustainabilityareseenasfarlesssustainablethanthebrands
thatdochoseforagreenmarketingcampaign.Therefore,istheadviseforfashion
companiesthatadvertisingsustainabilityisuseful,althoughitdoesnotreflectinsales
directly.
82
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ApendixI
G-Starquestionnaire-2
Q1.1Welcometomysurvey!Thankyoufortakingthetimetocompletethisshortsurveyto
helpmegraduateformyMAinCulturalEconomicsandEntrepreneurship.Ireallyappreciate
yourhelp.Theaimofthissurveyistoresearchtherelationshipfashionconsumershavewith
environmentalsustainability,eco-fashionandgreenmarketing.Inordertoresearchthis
relationshipacasestudyofthebrandG-Starandacertaincollectiontheymarketedisused.
Byprovidingsomeinformationaboutyourattitudeandbehaviortowards(eco)fashion-
consumptionIcandevelopapatternaboutfashionconsumerbehavior.Allinformation
providedtomeisanonymous,strictlyconfidentialandwon'tbeusedforotherpurposes
thanthisresearchalone.Ifyouhavequestionsfeelfreetocontactmebyemail
[email protected]@jitskenap
Thankyouverymuch,JitskeNap
Q2.1WereyoulivingintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016?
• No(1)
• Yes(pleasespecifyhowlonginmonths)(2)____________________
Condition:NoIsSelected.SkipTo:EndofSurvey.
Q2.2Areyoubornbetween1977and2000?
• Yes(1)
• No(2)
Condition:NoIsSelected.SkipTo:EndofSurvey.
• Q2.3Whatisyourage?
• Scale16-40yearsold.
88
Q47Whatisyourgender?
• Male(1)
• Female(2)
Q2.4Whatisyourhigestlevelofeducation?
• Basisschool/ElementarySchool(1)
• Middelbareschool/HighSchool(2)
• MBO/CommunityCollege(3)
• HBO/Appliedscience(4)
• WO/University(5)
Q2.5Whatisyournationality?
Open
Q2.6Whatisyourcountryofresidenceatthismoment?
Open
Q2.7Whatisyourcityofresidenceatthismoment?
Open
Q2.8Howmuchdoyouearn(netto)peryear?
• Lessthan€10,000(1)
• €10,000-€19,999(2)
• €20,000-€29,999(3)
• €30,000-€39,999(4)
• €40,000-€49,999(5)
• €50,000-€59,999(6)
• €60,000-€69,999(7)
• €70,000-€79,999(8)
• €80,000-€89,999(9)
• €90,000-€99,999(10)
89
• €100,000-€149,999(11)
• Morethan€150,000(12)
Q2.9Whichofthefollowingcategoriesdescribesbestyouremploymentstatus(more
answerspossible)?
• Employed,working1-39hoursperweek(1)
• Student(2)
• Notemployed(3)
Q3.1Howimportantisfashiontoyouonascalefrom0-10?
• 0(0)
• 1(1)
• 2(2)
• 3(3)
• 4(4)
• 5(5)
• 6(6)
• 7(7)
• 8(8)
• 9(9)
• 10(10)
Q3.2Towhatextentdoyouagreewiththefollowingstatement?
Stronglydisagree
(1)
Disagree(2) Neitheragreenor
disagree(3)
Agree(4) StronglyAgree(5)
Myknowledge
aboutthelatest
fashiontrendsisup
todate.(1)
Myfriendsconsider
measavaluable
resourcetoget
fashionadvice
from.(2)
90
Igivemyfriends
oftenadvicewhat
towear.(3)
Q3.3Howoftendoyougoshoppingforfashionrelateditems?
• Onceayear(1)
• Twiceayear(2)
• Onceeverythreemonths(3)
• Onceamonth(4)
• Onceaweek(5)
• Morethanonceaweek(6)
Q3.4Howmuchmoney(in€)doyouspendonfashionrelatedpurchasesamonth(onand
off-line)?
Open
Q4.1Howimportantisenvironmentalsustainabilitytoyouonascalefrom0-10?
• 0(0)
• 1(1)
• 2(2)
• 3(3)
• 4(4)
• 5(5)
• 6(6)
• 7(7)
• 8(8)
• 9(9)
• 10(10)
Q4.2Towhatextentdoyouagreewiththefollowingstatement?
91
Stronglydisagree
(1)
Disagree(2) Neitheragreenor
disagree(3)
Agree(4) StronglyAgree(5)
Itisimportantto
preservenatural
resourcesforfuture
generations(1)
Iamconcerned
about
environmental
issuessuchas
globalwarming(2)
Environmental
sustainability
shouldbean
importantpointon
thepoliticalagenda
(3)
Q4.3Whatkindofactionsdoyoutaketobemoreenvironmentalfriendly(moreanswers
possible)?
• None,Idon’ttakeanyenvironmentalactionstobecomemoresustainable.(1)
• Waste,Iseparatemywaste.(2)
• Food,Ieatorganic.(3)
• Limitoverallconsumption,onlyusewhatIneed.(4)
• Limitmyuseofresources(water/gas/electricity).(5)
• Transportation,Itakepublictransportationorcycle.(6)
Q5.1Howimportantissustainabilityinthefashionindustrytoyouonascalefrom0-10?
• 0(0)
• 1(1)
• 2(2)
• 3(3)
• 4(4)
• 5(5)
• 6(6)
92
• 7(7)
• 8(8)
• 9(9)
• 10(10)
Q5.2Towhatextentdoyouagreewiththefollowingstatement:
Stronglydisagree
(1)
Disagree(2) Neitheragreenor
disagree(3)
Agree(4) Stronglyagree(5)
Thereshouldcome
moreregulations
forfashionbrands
toproducemore
environmental
friendly.(1)
Sustainabilityinthe
fashionindustryis
important(2)
Peopleshouldbe
willingtopaymore
forsustainable
fashion.(3)
Q5.3Whatactionsareyoutakinginordertobecomeamoresustainablefashionconsumer?
• None,Idon'ttakeenvironmentalactionstobecomemoresustainable.(1)
• RecycleclothesIdiscard(forexamplebringtorecyclingcontainer,sell2ndhand
etc.).(2)
• Buymoreenvironmentalfriendlyclothes(2ndhand,sustainablebrands).(3)
• ExpandtimeIcanusemyclothesmyself(Repair/changefit/dye/usefabricforother
purposes).(4)
93
Q5.4Howmuchareyouwillingtopay(in€)foraNOTSUSTAINABLEjeans?
Open
Q5.5Howmuchareyouwillingtopay(in€)foraNOTSUSTAINABLET-shirt?
Open
Q5.6Howmuchareyouwillingtopay(in€)foraSUSTAINABLEjeans?
Open
Q5.7Howmuchareyouwillingtopay(in€)foraSUSTAINABLET-shirt?
Open
Q6.1AreyoufamiliarwiththebrandG-Star?
• Yes,IamfamiliarwiththebrandG-Star.(1)
• No,IhaveneverheardofthebrandG-Star.(2)
Condition:No,Ihaveneverheardoft...IsSelected.SkipTo:EndofBlock.
Q6.2WhatgradewouldyougiveG-Starasabrandonascalefrom0-10?
• 0(0)
• 1(1)
• 2(2)
• 3(3)
• 4(4)
• 5(5)
• 6(6)
• 7(7)
• 8(8)
• 9(9)
• 10(10)
Q6.3Towhatextentdoyouagreewiththefollowingstatements
94
Stronglydisagree
(1)
Disagree(2) Neitheragreenor
disagree(3)
Agree(4) StronglyAgree(5)
G-Starisagood
jeansbrand.(1)
TheproductsofG-
Starareofahigh
quality.(2)
G-Starisoneofmy
favoritejeans
brands.(3)
WearingG-Star
clothesincreases
mysocialstatus.(4)
IwearG-Star
clothingbecause
myfriendswearG-
Star.(5)
Q6.4HaveyouboughtanythingfromG-Starlastyear?
• Yes(1)
• No(2)
Condition:NoIsSelected.SkipTo:EndofBlock.
Q6.5HowmanyitemsdidyoupurchaselastyearfromG-Star?
Q6.6Howmuchmoney(in€)didyouspendintotalontheitemsyoupurchasedatG-Star
lastyear?
Q7.1AreyoufamiliarwiththeRawfortheOceancampaignfromG-Star?
• Yes,IamfamiliarwithRawfortheOcean(1)
• No,IhaveneverheardofRawfortheOcean(2)
Condition:No,IhaveneverheardofR...IsSelected.SkipTo:Doyouhaveanysuggestionsor
other....
95
Q7.2WhatgradewouldyougivetheRawfortheOceancampaignonascalefrom0-10?
• 0(0)
• 1(1)
• 2(2)
• 3(3)
• 4(4)
• 5(5)
• 6(6)
• 7(7)
• 8(8)
• 9(9)
• 10(10)
Q7.4HaveyouboughtanyitemsfromtheG-StarRawfortheOceancollection?
• Yes(1)
• No(2)
Condition:NoIsSelected.SkipTo:Towhatextenddoyouagreewiththe....
Q7.5HowmanyitemshaveyouboughtfromthetheRawfortheOceanCollection?
Q7.6Howmuchmoneyhavethesepurchasescostintotal?(in€)?
96
Q7.7TowhatextentdoyouagreewiththefollowingstatementsabouttheeffectoftheRaw
fortheOceanCampaign?
Stronglydisagree
(1)
Disagree(2) Neitheragreenor
disagree(3)
Agree(4) StronglyAgree(5)
IfindtheRawfor
theOcean
campaignpositive.
(1)
Themessageofthe
campaignisclear.
(2)
Duetothe
campaignIlikeG-
Starmoreasa
brand.(3)
Duetothe
campaignIfind
environmental
sustainabilitymore
important(4)
Duetothe
campaignI'mmore
awareofthe
problemswith
plasticbottlesinthe
ocean.(5)
Q7.8Hasthecampaignchangedtheactionsyoutaketobemoreenvironmentalfriendly?
• Yes(1)
• No(2)
DisplayThisQuestion:
IfHasthecampaignchangedtheactionsyoutaketobemoreenvironmentalfriendly?YesIs
Selected
Q7.9Whatkindofactionsdoyoutaketobemoreenvironmentalfriendly(Moreanswers
possible)?
97
• Waste,Iseperatemywaste(1)
• Food,Ieatorganic(2)
• Limitoverallconsumption,onlyusewhatIneed(3)
• Limitmyuseofresources(water/gas/electricity)(4)
• Transportation,Itakepublictransportationorcycle(6)
• Ilimitmyconsumptionofplasticbottles(7)
Q7.10Hasthecampaignchangedyourfashionconsumptionintermsofsustainability?
• Yes(1)
• No(2)
DisplayThisQuestion:
IfHasthecampaignchangedyourfashionconsumptionintermsofsustainability?YesIs
Selected
Q7.11Whatactionsareyoutakinginordertoconsumemoresustainable?
• RecycleclothesIdiscard(forexamplebringtorecyclingcontainer,sell2ndhandetc.)
(1)
• Buymoreenvironmentalfriendlyclothes(2ndhand,sustainablebrands).(2)
• ExpandtimeIcanusemyclothesmyself(Repare/changefit/dye/usefabricfor
otherpurposes).(3)
Q7.12Doyouhaveanysuggestionsorotherinformationyouwishtosharethatcould
improvemyresearch?
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