The one and Many Faces of Burgundy
ContentsDivine Burgundyp.4
Burgundy Todayp.6
Multiple Burgundyp.8
Burgundy for foodiesp.10
Burgundy’s wine listp.12
Burgundy countrysidep.14
Burgundy by waterp.16
Burgundy by bikep.18
Burgundy for everyonep.20
City lifep.22
A Night to Remember p.24
Useful informationp.26
Their names are Eva, Joon, Cécile, Arnaud, and they come from the USA, Germany, the Netherlands and Paris…
They have all chosen to visit Burgundy for a weekend, a short break or longer. They are fond of wine,
town atmosphere, old buildings or contemporary art. They are keen to meditate in a spiritual atmosphere;
to go on a cycling tour of Burgundy, to share a good bottle of wine with friends… What do they have in common?
They have all chosen to stay in a region of exceptional beauty situated in the heart of Europe. Come and share their
adventures before setting out in turn on an adventure of your own. Take your pick from the extraordinary array
of activities offered by the region. Like so many before you, you too will choose Burgundy.
Welcome!
“I dreamt of discovering spiritual Burgundy: Vézelay, Fontenay, Taizé, ….”Eva
Divine
The land of Burgundy gave birth to the two great monastic
movements that were to leave an imperishable mark on the religious
history of Europe: the Benedictine and the Cistercian Orders.
Fontenay Abbey, the Basilica of St Mary Magdalene in Vézelay
and the Abbey Church of La Charité-sur-Loire have all obtained the
UNESCO World Heritage accolade. The unforgettable circuit includes
the glory of Cluny, Cîteaux Abbey and those pretty Romanesque
churches spread throughout the countryside like the beads of a
rosary. In Dijon, the curious-minded will set out in search of the
“100 spires” which so amazed François Premier, king of France,
the gargoyles of Notre-Dame and the crypt of Saint-Bénigne.
At Nevers, you can contemplate the embalmed body of Bernadette
of Lourdes, laid to rest in a glass shrine, while young Christians from
every part of Europe come together at Taizé and Paray-le-Monial each
year. The treasures of religious history are displayed at the Sacred Art
Museums of Paray-le-Monial and Dijon.
Europe’s largest Buddhist community is to be found at La
Boulaye: the Temple of the Thousand Buddhas. As a way stage on
the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella, Burgundy has long been
an example of ecumenism, open-mindedness and tolerance.
5
10 am. Rising up in front of Eva, at the top of the “Eternal Hill”, the basilica of Vézelay attracts her like a lover.
This young 34-year-old native of Munich had long dreamt of discovering this gem of Romanesque architecture,
its capitals, tympaniums and matchless arches. After her visit, she intends to have lunch in one of the region’s
restaurants of repute nestling at the foot the “eternal hill” of Vézelay, before travelling on to Chablis for
a wine-tasting session or explore the mysterious and endless landscape of the Morvan stretched out in front of her.
Burgundy
“Burgundy and contemporary art go together naturally ”Franck
Burgundy
Today
For Burgundy, heritage protection bequeathed down
the centuries and the encouragement of contemporary creation
is not so much a contradiction as a challenge. The Consortium team
in Dijon is recognised throughout Europe for its ability to unearth new
talents; it has exhibited the works of César and Buren in its art centre
situated in the heart of town and a former factory in the suburbs.
The nearby Regional Contemporary Art Collection is one of the most
impressive in Europe. Our friends Lydie and Franck will also take
in the contemporary works of art on display at the Dijon University
campus as well as the famous Granville donation at the Dijon Fine
Arts Museum, and some of the many fine art galleries to be found
in town; And who knows? They might bump into the Dijon-based
Chinese artist Yan-Peï Ming as he leaves his studio…
They will meet up with emerging talents at such places
as Tanlay, Pougues-les-Eaux, the Nicéphore-Niepce Museum
of Chalon-sur-Saône and the Zervos Legacy at Vézelay.
At Noyers-sur-Serein, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain or Besanceuil,
they will chance upon a host of surprising and unexpected galleries
and exhibition areas. And they will make sure not to miss such
festivals as Why Note, Art Danse or the annual festival of film music
at Auxerre. They will head back to Paris fully convinced
that contemporary creation is alive and well in Burgundy.
7
11 am. Lydie and Franck, fine arts students from Paris, were keen to discover Burgundy from a different angle.
Their quest for contemporary artists takes them this morning to a Dijon art gallery. Alongside fashionable
restaurants and top festivals, they have pencilled in some of the finest exhibitions in France.
Multiple
“I dreamt of sampling a glass of white wine in the heart of the Burgundy vineyards.”Elisabeth
Burgundy
In every part of the world, the name of Burgundy is
synonymous with “wines of exception”. From Beaune to Chablis and
from Mâcon to Nuits-Saint-Georges, the vineyards of Burgundy are
at once an extraordinarily rich, complex, discreet and… overpowering
experience! There is nothing more rewarding than getting to know
these localities or terroirs and the people who work in them. With 102
appellations and 33 grands crus spread over a little area blessed
by the gods and producing barely 0.5% of the world’s wine output,
Burgundy is as unpretentious as it is famous. It is also incredibly
diverse. From one vineyard to another, one vintage to another, one
climat to another, the wines of Burgundy are so different from each
other! The reds, whites and rosés bring out all the qualities of the pinot
noir and chardonnay grape varieties, which flourish here as nowhere
else. And let’s not forget the Crémant de Bourgogne, the sparkling
wine which is so much at home here, especially in the Châtillon area.
In Burgundy, winegrowers and wine producers attach the
greatest importance to authenticity and excellence. Here, wine-tasting
is a unique and cherished experience. Will you prove equal to the
task of taming these extraordinary wines? Will you be able to identify
the aromas of the undergrowth, of hazelnut or red fruit, appreciate
the colour or robe of the wine to the full? Well, there’s only one way
to find out. You must cross the threshold, like Elisabeth and Kilian,
of one of our world-renowned vineyards!
9
Midday. Elisabeth and Kilian, a British couple in their ’fifties, are enjoying a glass of white wine and chatting with
the English-speaking winegrower who has invited them to his cellar. For these winelovers, Burgundy has always
been almost a myth. So this afternoon, after a walk through the vineyards and stopping off at the terrace of a café
in a wine village, they are going to learn the basics of wine-tasting in Beaune. Tomorrow they intend to broaden
their cultural knowledge by visiting a few remarkable towns.
Alcohol abuse is dangerous to your health. Please consume moderately.
“In Burgundy, gastronomy is a question of tradition, good products, innovation and creativity.”Julien
Burgundy
11
for foodies
As our friends know full well, we take our food seriously here
in Burgundy and “good eating” is considered an art form. Indeed any
holiday in Burgundy is first of all an affair of flavour and taste.
Here’s a little riddle for you: what do Bresse chicken, Dijon mustard,
oeufs en meurette (eggs in red wine sauce), Charolais beef
and Epoisses cheese have in common? They are all gastronomic
specialities of Burgundy.
Take your pick: little local markets or the great covered market
in Dijon. Specialised laboratories where researchers work
on questions of nutrition and health; a private kitchen where a chef
reveals the tricks of his trade; a restaurant in the matchless setting
of a château or a former abbey; truffle hunting near Auxerre or picking
little red fruit in the uplands above Nuits-Saint-Georges. There are
so many different ways of exploring Burgundy’s gastronomic heritage
and enjoying a cuisine in turn traditional, innovative and creative.
One thing is for certain – here all tastes are catered for!
It is one o’clock in the afternoon. The maître d’hôtel approaches your table: boeuf
bourguignon, coq au vin, sandre (pikeperch) au vin blanc and pôchouse (fish stew)
are on the menu. Our four friends from Lyon and Strasbourg have chosen a few Burgundian
favourites for their gastronomic lunch in a traditional inn on the banks of the Saône.
This evening, they plan to dine in one of the region’s internationally renowned restaurants
but have yet to decide between Saulieu, Chagny, Joigny and Vézelay.
After such indulgence, tomorrow will be devoted to a cycling tour of Burgundy!
“In Burgundy, the landscapes, the atmosphere and the paths are as varied as the wines.What an abundance!”Kilian
Burgundy’s
13
wine list
The landscapes of the winegrowing areas are as varied as the
wines to which they give birth. Among the many “wine roads” running
through Burgundy: the Route des grands crus – the region’s own
Champs-Elysées stretching 80 kilometres from Dijon to Nolay with
such highlights as the Clos de Vougeot, Beaune and many an
authentic little wine village along the way; the Route des grands vins
de la Côte chalonnaise; the Route des vins du Mâconnais-Beaujolais;
the Route des vignobles de l’Yonne and the Route des coteaux
Pouilly-Sancerre. Further north, around Châtillon-sur-Seine, you enter
the kingdom of the famous Crémant de Bourgogne sparkling wine.
Beginners will feel just as much at home as the confirmed wine
connoisseur, thanks to the special reception areas set up in such
places as Beaune, Romanèche-Thorins and Nuits-Saint-Georges,
where the very latest technologies will help you to understand the
intricacies of the world of wine. But most and best of all, winegrowers
in every village will be happy to open wide the doors to their cellars.
Here you will be introduced to the art of wine-tasting and share the
secrets of a very ancient culture. For an encounter with the wines of
Burgundy is first and foremost an encounter with the men and women
who toil ceaselessly to produce these great wines for your pleasure.
After lunch, our English friends Elisabeth and Kilian, disappear into the vineyards… or perhaps
breathe in the heady scent of grapes as they pass through each village at harvest time, or plunge
into the damp, welcoming coolness of a cellar and savour a glass of chardonnay accompanied
by a cheese puff pastry. These and many other unforgettable moments will be theirs in the course
of their wine itinerary. Whether you are travelling on foot, on bike or by car, the journey through
Burgundy is in itself a feast for the eyes and an enticing prelude to a visit to the wine cellar!
Alcohol abuse is dangerous to your health. Please consume moderately.
“With its forests, lakes, rivers and footpaths, our stay in the Morvan has been unforgettable.”Joon et Anika
Burgundy
15
countryside
Burgundy is a veritable paradise for hikers, cyclists, fishing
and inland waterway enthusiasts. Joon and Anika have opted for
the Morvan Regional Nature Park, a protected granite massif where
they are free to pursue hiking, cycling, horse riding and rafting to their
heart’s content, but they could just as well have sought peace
and quiet in the Châtillonnais (with its characteristic washhouses
of yesteryear), the Puisaye (the country of the writer Colette and ochre
stone houses) or the Cluny area (forever associated with the poet
Lamartine). A word for cyclists: the region is liberally endowed with
voies vertes and voies bleues linking up and forming part of the main
European cycling circuits. And a word for waterway fans: 1200 km
of navigable waterways – canals and rivers – await your discovery!
And those of you dreaming of warm baths, hot springs
and massages can head for the health resorts of Bourbon-Lancy
and Saint-Honoré-les-Bains, or get away from it all in any number
of luxurious hotels and vineyard establishments.
It is 2 o’clock in the afternoon. Equipped with walking boots and backpack,
Joon and Anika have given themselves the day to walk round the Haut-Folin peak
(the highest point in Burgundy). It is part of a six-day holiday in the heart of the Morvan.
Pitching their tent on the banks of the Lac de Chamboux, they are looking forward
to a week in which to unwind, breathe in the pure air of forests, mountains,
lakes and rivers. Not forgetting charm and gastronomy!
“Quite honestly, Burgundy is a paradise for inland water enthusiasts!”Harry
Burgundy
17
by water
With 1200 km of navigable waters, Burgundy is a haven for
inland waterway tourists. Their “headquarters”: Saint-Jean-de-Losne,
France’s largest inland marina with room for 300 boats. Waterway
halts have been established at Tonnerre, Digoin, Verdun-sur-le-Doubs
and all along the Nivernais Canal. Here, tourists can make fast
and set off to explore the sights, enjoy a restaurant or explore a town.
The region has some 30 bases and almost 500 boats for hire
with room for 2 to 12 persons. You can also relax in the comfort
of hotel barges or cruise boats.
The Canal Centre (Halle du Toueur), designed by the architect
Shigeru Ban, and the canal tunnel await your visit at Cap Canal,
Pouilly-en-Auxois. And what could be more enjoyable than tying up
in the very heart of Dijon or Chalon-sur-Saône? Or perhaps rafting
down the Chalaux river or enjoying a pedalo outing on one
of the great lakes of the Morvan? Wherever you go, you are never
far from the water. Treat yourself to a relaxed, offbeat way
of discovering Burgundy!
It is three o’clock in the afternoon. Kendra and Harry are sunbathing on the deck
of their little rented houseboat. All of a sudden, as the boat emerges from the shade of a little wood,
our friends see the château of Châteauneuf-en-Auxois perched on a rocky spur high above them.
For this American couple, a boat cruise represents the best and most peaceful way
of discovering Burgundy, and indeed they will find that one memorable moment follows another
as they drift along the Burgundy Canal.
“We’ve cycled all over Europe and very few regions have such diversity to offer.”Marie
Burgundy
19
by bike
There are eight hundred kilometres of marked itineraries
reserved for cyclists in Burgundy. This ecological, sporting and fun
way to explore the varied landscapes of the region at one’s own pace
is now represented by a network called “Le tour de Bourgogne
à vélo®” (Burgundy by Bike). The network will take you through the
vineyards of the Côte-d’Or and Saône-et-Loire departments, from
Dijon to Saint-Gengoux-le-National by way of Nuits-Saint-Georges,
Beaune, Santenay, Givry and Buxy. Or alongside the Saône, from
Mâcon to Saint-Jean-de-Losne by way of Chalon-sur-Saône and
Verdun-sur-le-Doubs. Or again it will take the old towpaths to follow
the Burgundy Canal, the Canal du Centre or the Nivernais Canal.
A surprise awaits you at almost every mile along the way: a château,
a chapel, a country inn, the guarantee of a close-up view of a wild
animal, and of course any number of gîtes and places to break
your journey.
Visitors to Dijon will be able to explore the town’s historical
centre by bike thanks to the new self-service rental system.
And if you venture further afield, you can always travel back to town
by train or bus with your bike safely on board. Like other great
European regions, Burgundy has wholeheartedly adopted sustainable
development – tourism on a bicycle!
At the same time on the same day, while Joon and Anika set out to conquer
the Haut-Folin, their French friends Olivier and Marie prefer to explore the countryside by bike.
Today, they are cycling from Chalon-sur-Saône to Cluny along the very first voie verte
or Green Way created in France.
“The children are on holiday too! We really feel we’re in a region open to all.”Laurence
Burgundy
21
for everyone
An environment-friendly “sun festival” at the Lac des Settons,
an array of traditional and natural products, from Morvan honey to the
famous Flavigny aniseed balls. Sustainable tourism means protecting
the planet. Burgundy’s respect for the environment is apparent at
every turning: footpaths specially adapted for the disabled in the
Auxois… Amusement parks built on a human scale for families at
Arnay-sous-Vitteaux, Le Creusot... Holiday centres in the Morvan...
In Burgundy, our philosophy is to create a tourist industry which
is at once open, generous and tolerant, where all are welcome and
no-one is excluded. For a tourism where some are excluded cannot
be sustainable. Under the aegis of the Regional Union of Tourist
Associations, “tourism for everyone” has become the watchword,
with farms, châteaux and holiday centres welcoming children with
open arms. Surprises include a castle being built in the middle
of the Puisaye close to a forest where stags gambol at will, museums
open free of charge throughout the year in Dijon, treetop adventures
or swimming in the wilds. Families are welcome, the choice is wide
and the many attractions of Burgundy are accessible to all
and sundry. Welcome to Burgundy to all of you!
4 pm. Elléa was soon fast asleep in the car hugging the teddy bear brought back
as a souvenir of Touroparc in her arms. Touroparc at Romanèche-Thorins,
is a wildlife park specially chosen by her parents, Laurence and Patrice.
In all parts of Burgundy, this little family will find places ideal for children and adults alike.
Warm and welcoming sites in a warm and welcoming region!
“A holiday isn’t a holiday without shopping, entertainment and fashionable restaurants.”Sonia and Cécile
City
23
Life
Dijon, the regional capital, which has preserved intact one
of the largest protected areas in France; Beaune, capital of Burgundy
wine; Chalon-sur-Saône, image and photography capital; Mâcon,
capital of Southern Burgundy; Le Creusot, industrial capital; Auxerre,
capital of Northern Burgundy; Nevers, capital on the banks of the
Loire. In all, Burgundy boasts no fewer than six Towns of Historical
and Artistic Interest: Autun, Auxerre, Chalon-sur-Saône, Dijon, Joigny
and Nevers; exceptional monuments such as Sens Cathedral,
the Hospices de Beaune, the UNESCO World Heritage listed abbey
church of La Charité-sur-Loire, the basilica of Paray-le-Monial.
Each town has its distinctive personality but all have succeeded
in remaining on a “human scale”.
Exploring a town means steeping oneself in a particular
atmosphere, coming across surprising and unexpected boutiques,
attractive terraces and bustling markets, or enjoying the festive
and relaxed ambience of a summer’s evening. It is also a cultural
experience. Who could resist a performance at the Dijon Opera
House or the Arc National Culture Centre of Le Creusot? And who
could turn down the chance to visit the Nicéphore Niepce Museum
in Chalon-sur-Saône, the Septennat Museum at Château-Chinon
or one of the seven museums in Dijon? Not to mention the region’s
finest festivals: Baroque Music (Beaune), Street Arts
(Chalon-sur-Saône), Blues (Le Creusot), Film Music (Auxerre),
Adventure Film (Dijon), among many others.
6 pm. Sonia and Cécile are feeling worn out. Scarcely surprising when you have spent the afternoon
sightseeing, shopping and strolling through the centre of Dijon! This evening, they plan to see a show
at the Auditorium and then bring the day to a close with a drink at one of the town’s fashionable cafés.
“We were looking for a romantic spot and we found ithere in Burgundy, well away from the crowds.”Arnaud
A Night
25
to Remember
A room in an authentic farmhouse? A luxury hotel complete
with spa and all the trimmings? A floating gîte at Saint-Firmin (unique
in France)? There are any number of accommodation possibilities
in Burgundy. The options range from eminently affordable lakeside
campsites in the Morvan to luxury four-star establishments in Dijon,
Saulieu, Chagny or Vézelay. There is something for all budgets
in a region renowned for its hospitality and its inimitable art de vivre.
Looking for something offbeat? How about a night in a yurt (a circular,
domed, portable tent) at Sainte-Marie-sur-Ouche, in a Scandinavian
chalet at Saint-Agnan, in a “design” bedroom amidst the vineyards
at Puligny-Montrachet, in a horse-drawn caravan at Gimouille,
in a tree-top hut in the south of the Saône-et-Loire department,
or in a luxuriously appointed room in the former abbey
of La Bussière-sur-Ouche?
Night falls. Tomorrow will bring another day of discovery and
pleasure in Burgundy. Before long it will be time to start the journey
home by car, by TGV or by plane. But of one thing you may be sure:
Eva, Joon, Cécile, Arnaud and the others will be back again soon!
6.30 pm. Célia and Arnaud arrive at the charming hotel they have selected.
A romantic room and a terrace with views over the undulating countryside.
A little later on, they will admire the sunset. Our young married couple
could also have chosen to stay in a converted Bed & Breakfast
in an old mill, a treetop house...
Publisher: Bourgogne Tourisme - Editorial Director: Didier MARTIN - Creation/Design: tempsRéel and Cap Horn (Dijon, 21) - Editorial Office: Patrice BOUILLOT - Photographic Credits: Alain DOIRE (Bourgogne Tourisme – Dijon, 21) Printed by DESMET-LAIRE SA (Mont-de-l’Enclus, Belgique) - ISSN: pending – October 2008 - Maps produced by ACTUAL (St-Julien-les-Villas, 10) – Tél. + 33 (0)3 25 71 20 20 – www.actual.tm.fr - Reproduction forbidden. Authorisation No. 51-21/JMP/03-08, 52-21/JMP/03-08, 53-21/JMP/03-08 and 54-21/JMP/03-08
Bourgogne Tourisme
Comité Régional du Tourisme de Bourgogne
BP 20623 - F 21006 DIJON cedex
tél. +33 (0)3 80 28 02 80 - fax +33 (0)3 80 28 03 00
www.bourgogne-tourisme.com - www.vite-en-bourgogne.com
Côte-d’Or Tourisme
Agence de Développement Touristique de la Côte-d’Or
BP 1601 - F 21035 DIJON cedex
tél. +33 (0)3 80 63 69 49 - fax +33 (0)3 80 49 90 97
www.cotedor-tourisme.com
Agence de Développement Touristique de la Nièvre
2, avenue Saint-Just - BP 10318 - F 58003 NEVERS cedex
tél. +33 (0)3 86 36 39 80 - fax +33 (0)3 86 36 36 63
[email protected] - www.nievre-tourisme.com
Comité Départemental du Tourisme de Saône-et-Loire
389, avenue Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny - F 71000 MÂCON
tél. +33 (0)3 85 21 02 20 - fax +33 (0)3 85 38 94 36
www.bourgogne-du-sud.com
Yonne Tourisme
Agence de Développement Touristique de l’Yonne
1-2, quai de la République - F 89000 AUXERRE
tél. +33 (0)3 86 72 92 00 - fax +33(0)3 86 72 92 09
[email protected] - www.tourisme-yonne.com
Parc Naturel Régional du Morvan
Office de Tourisme de la Maison du Parc
Espace Saint-Brisson - F 58230 SAINT-BRISSON
tél. fax +33 (0)3 86 78 79 57
www.parcdumorvan.org - www.patrimoinedumorvan.org
Useful information
27
Getting to Burgundy by car
by air
Burgundy is connected with French and European cities by a dense motorway network. International connectionsThere are TGV connections to Burgundy from: Geneva (Mâcon-Loché, 1hr 50 min),Lausanne (Dijon, 2 hrs), Zurich (Dijon, 4 hrs 15 min), London via Lille (Dijon, 5 hrs 30 min)and Brussels via Lille (Dijon, 4hrs).
National connectionsThere are TGV connections to Burgundy from the following major towns:- Paris (Gare de Lyon): Dijon (1 hr 40 min), Beaune (2 hrs 10 min),
Chalon-sur-Saône (2 hrs 30 min), Le Creusot-Montceau-Montchanin (1 hr 30 min),Mâcon-Loché (1 hr 40 min)
- Paris Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport: Dijon (1 hr 55 min)- Lyon (La Part-Dieu): Le Creusot-Montceau-Montchanin (50 min), Dijon (1 hr 45 min)- Lille: Dijon (2 hr 50 min)- Marseille and Nice: Dijon (5 hrs 40 min and 6 hrs) serving Mâcon (2 hrs 10 min)
and Chalon-sur-Saône (2 hrs 50 min) Information: www.voyages-sncf.com
Intraregional connectionsThe TER (Regional Express Transport) network provides rail transport inside Burgundy and links up with neighbouring regions.Information: www.ter-sncf.com/Bourgogne
Dijon-Bourgogne Airport6 km South-East of Dijon.Information: BP 25 – F-21601 LONGVIC Cedextél. +33 (0)3 80 67 67 67 – fax +33 (0)3 80 63 02 [email protected] – www.dijon-aeroport.fr
Nearest airportsParis Charles de Gaulle (direct TGV connectionbetween Dijon and Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport),Paris Orly, Lyon Saint-Exupéry, Bâle-Mulhouse and Genève Cointrin.
by rail
www.bourgogne-tourisme.com