Motorcycle TourM
agazine
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
AUGUST 2011Volume 17 No. 8
Running with the DiavelRiding Solo in Tuscany • Tour de Tug • Americade 2011
PLUS… All our great monthly columns, features and information
W H A T ’ S I N S I D EMONTHLY COLUMNS
FREE WHEELIN’.................................................................................4
WHATCHATHINKIN’..........................................................................6
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE .................................................8
ON THE MARK ..................................................................................9
THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ...................................................10
BACKLASH........................................................................................11
INDUSTRY INFOBITES...................................................................13
INSIDE THE HELMET .....................................................................14
BIG CITY GETAWAY........................................................................16
WE’RE OUTTA HERE......................................................................18
MYSTERIOUS AMERICA...............................................................22
GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN.........................................24
UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ..............................................48
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE...................................................52
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .......................................................56
FEATURESAMERICADE - BACK TO THE LAKE...........................................26
GOOCH’S GARLIC RUN 2011.......................................................31
RIDING SOLO IN TUSCANY.........................................................36
BACKROADS UPCOMING EVENTS ...........................................40
RUNNING WITH THE DIAVEL......................................................42
GETTING CLEAR ON COMMUNICATION ................................46
SHIRA’S SUMMERTIME ICE CREAM RIDE .............................58
TWO-AND-A-THIRD SIXES TOUR DE TUG ..............................60
PRODUCT REVIEWSPRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS ...............................................................44
CATOMA OUTDOORS 2 UP 2 TENT.........................................50
ARAI XC SERIES HELMET ............................................................51
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ PublishersContributors: Michael Abraham, Bill Amadio, Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Vince Johnson,Jeffrey Kurtzman, Donna Sherburn, Tim Wineland, Tyler Yandow, Dr. Seymour O’Life
BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826
Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email [email protected] • web www.backroadsusa.com • Advertising Sales 973-948-4176
BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2011. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific writtenconsent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ willonly return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be con-sidered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadwaystraversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
Not AlwAys EquAl
All animals are equal – but some animalsare more equal that others….
Animal Farm
A few years back, while touring in eastern Europe I came upon a sign for limited
parking.
It showed a hybrid vehicle and, if you were driving such a car, you were more
than welcome to this prime piece of parking realty.
Being in this part of the world I simply took note and parked my highly fuel-ef-
ficient motorcycle in another legal, if not as nice space, and continued on my tour.
Let’s slingshot forward a few years to
this past June.
We were at a local park in western
Pennsylvania and, as we pulled into the
parking lot, I spied a vaguely familiar
sign.
The very politically correct Eurocrats
had reached our shores. For years, if you
were handicapped, you had privileged
parking – but now if you had a “Hybrid”
you were also given special parking.
Wait, because you are driving a more
“Green” vehicle you are now more wor-
thy than others?
All animals are equal – but some ani-
mals are more equal that others….
Our motorcycles are powered by both
fuel and electricity - in a fashion. And,
with the superb fuel economy that many
bikes get, should we not also be offered
prime parking when available?
I think motorcycles are green from the get go!
This day I made it a point to park my bike right in this spot.
Nobody said a word at this park. It didn’t matter as there were dozen of them
and we were the only ones there. Still a point was to be made.
Don’t we all think that it is about time that the United States really starts to em-
brace two-wheel transportation? Making readily available parking for motorcycles
is truly a no-brainer.
We put less stress on the roadways and infrastructure. We take up far less space
than all but the smallest cars and motorcycles are very fuel-efficient.
In the Big Apple the New York Motorcycle & Scooter Task Force is doing a se-
riously good job at getting more spots available for riders of both motorcycles and
scooters. LaGuardia Airport is their latest success. We hope more are on the way.
Log onto their site at www.nymstf.org and help in any way you can.
Since it was the Europeans that spurred this tirade on we must give credit where
it is due.
For years Europe has not only embraced motorcycles and riders, but actively
encourage them.
The way the average European feels about riders compared to the average Amer-
ican is truly a wide gap. Riders are accepted in Europe – here they are sometimes
vilified.
In every major European country motorcycles are an intrinsic part of the trans-
portation system. Motorcycles are everywhere and treated like equals, not in the
villainous way many times we are treated here in the States.
Not only that, in Europe and Asia it is expected that motorcycles will filter
though stopped traffic. This makes sense and keeps the flow of traffic from piling
up.
Lane-splitting is illegal in many eastern states, but it is encouraged in Europe.
I have had some drivers actually try to stop me from moving through stopped
traffic on a hot summer day. By trying to stop me, using a pick-up truck as a bat-
tering ram, I see that as attempted murder. But that’s me and I have been called
excitable.
I guess what we’d like to see is a more common-sense approach to motorcycle
riding, parking and attitude.(Continued on Page 12)
F R E E W H E E L I N ’
BRIAN RATHJEN
Page 4
whAt’s A girl to do?
I consider myself fortunate to have a cou-
ple of bikes to choose from when heading
out for a ride. I know many who have a multitude of options, but I’ve always
thought that two is the perfect number. Even with all the miles I put on in a
year, I still don’t put on enough to warrant a third choice. I suppose that
if/when I decide to do more serious off-road adventuring – that would be
if/when I move out of New Jersey as there is next to nothing in the way of
trails in my neck of the state
– a smaller dirt bike would be
added to the stable. For now,
the BMW F650GS and
Honda 919 serve my pur-
poses just fine.
That being said, I wish my
choices in gear were as sim-
ple. Brian and I used to be
very happy sharing a gear
closet, chock full of jackets,
pants, boots and such. They
commingled in happiness,
blending their road odors to
become one. At some point, I
realized that my stuff kept
getting hung on the lesser
hangers and the separation of
‘front and back’ of the closet
no longer existed. I must have mumbled this in my outside voice, as Brian
moved his gear to another closet one day. Perhaps it was that he felt my gear
was beginning to overrun his and he ran for his life. Whatever the reason, I
discovered a whole new space and, when one has space, one fills it.
I have to say that I am sort of gentle on my riding gear. I like to wash it on
a fairly regular basis and try to keep it in somewhat decent shape. Thus, I
tend to keep pieces for some length of time and accumulate many variations
of the theme. Sure, there are seasonal items such as heavy liners and
Gerbings, but I’m talking crossovers. Let’s take an inventory…
My selection of jackets right now includes a Cortech Denim, Girl Gear
Morocco, Clover GT-3 WP and Olympia Airglide and AST, all with accom-
panying liners. For the bottom half of my body there hang some Olympia
Airglide and Promax also pairing up with liners. Moving further south, the
floor of the closet houses Tourmaster Solution, IXS boots that I believe are
out of production and Forma GT. Hanging out in the bike barn are a number
of helmets including a tried and true Nolan N103, a thoroughly broken in
Schuberth C3W and the new kid on the block, the Vemar Jiano, which is
soon to be road-tested. I won’t even go into the glove box, as that happens
to be my obsession zone. Okay, since you insist, my day-to-day finger cover
is a pair of Held Steve II. I have an assortment of rain gloves, varying in
(Continued on Page 12)
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Page 6 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
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thE drivE of your lifE
It’s one of those things where if everything is
working properly, you really don’t give it much
thought. And while there are so many aspects of
modern motorcycles I could include in this category, at the moment I’m
thinking about your final drive system. This is of course the ultimate link be-
tween your drivetrain and the road, for this is the final mechanical transfer
point where your power is translated to the drive wheel in order to get you
on your way. Despite the fact that we have so much wild technology in our
lives these days, there’s still just three primary ways our final drives are set
up: chains, belts and drive shafts. But, as always, I think there may be a dif-
ferent type of system in the future and until recently I would have said the
distant future. But the way things change these days, I refuse to use the term
distant any more. Technology has a way of just showing up and getting in-
corporated into our lives almost before we realize it, so I’m going to be care-
ful when I say something is way in the future.
For now, though, we have the three established drive systems and I’ve
heard some surprisingly spirited dinner discussions about which system is
superior. Most manufacturers (but certainly not all) use all three drive meth-
ods depending on which particular model they think works best with the par-
ticular system. Serious sport bikes (with the exception of Buells recently)
always went for a chain for its combination of durability, light weight, ability
to handle a lot of torque and horsepower and the ease at which you can
change the final drive ratio by just swapping sprockets. On the downside a
chain-and-sprocket array is the highest maintenance of the three systems, al-
though with today’s O-ring, X-ring, X-Wing and Ring-a-Ding chains this is
not nearly the chore it used to be. Just picking from the amazing assortment
of chain lubes available (including waxes and other types of excellent chem-
istry in spray form) can be an adventure, though, and until recently many
manufacturers still recommended lubing the chain with good ol’ engine oil
which was a mess.
Next we have the belt system, which some folks mistakenly think is a com-
paratively recent development but belts have been driving wheels for as long
as there have been engines (and motors, and mills powered by paddlewheels).
A very efficient and light weight way to go, belts are also clean and require
no maintenance other than periodic inspection, occasional adjustment and
eventual replacement. On the downside it’s much harder to change ratios,
and on very rare occasions a gravel road can mess with the “teeth” of a belt’s
sprocket. Oh, they are also very elegant and stylish, and can help dampen
the output shock of an engine like a V-Twin.
Finally we have gear drive (or shaft drive as we call it), which is heavier,
more complex but very reliable and very low maintenance. Over the eons all
kinds of clever engineering strategies have been implemented to help coun-
teract the “shaft effect” this type of system can introduce during abrupt ac-
celeration or deceleration, with a good degree of success. BMW and Moto
Guzzi have a lot of experience with drive shafts, and their work has resulted
in not only good, reliable drive but generous use of single-sided swingarms
that greatly simplifies rear wheel removal. Sport Touring bikes are really
starting to embrace the shaft, too, like the Kawasaki Concours, Yamaha
FJR1300A and even Honda VFR have done. The only real maintenance in-
volves (depending on the machine) a bit of shaft-spline lube and an oil change
at usually pretty spread-out intervals, which is why big touring rigs like the
Gold Wing that log serious miles love the shaft (especially since added
weight is less of an issue).
So all three of these systems are doing a fine job of getting our motorcycles
around, much as we got along just fine with carburetors, non-radial tires and
even drum brakes once upon a time. What’s next in final drive? In my mind
the next big change will come with a change in the engine room, or when
the rapidly advancing science of electric-powered motorcycles become more
mainstream. Then in the lightest models I think we’ll see an electric motor
that basically IS the final drive, fed off nothing more than a wire running up
the swingarm. Imagine the overall simplicity, low maintenance and cleanli-
ness of such a drive. I honestly do think this technology has a lot of devel-
opment to do and is not exactly around the corner, and yet I can’t believe
how fast the world of anything that has wires, chips and other things in it is
changing. The next decade, to put it mildly, is going to be very interesting.
P O S T C A R D SF R O M T H E H E D G E
BILL HEALD
Page 8 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
138 Orange Ave (Rt. 202), Suffern, NY 10901 • 845.357.1190 • www.locomotionpowersports.com
“Oh, a storm is threat’ning, My very lifetoday, If I don’t get some shelter, Ohyeah, I’m gonna fade away.”
The Rolling Stones “Gimme Shelter”
I see it coming for miles: thirty thousand
feet of tumultuous, malevolent, gray-indigo
cumulonimbus loaded with rain and hail,
charged with the electrical equivalent of an
atom bomb. With increasing frequency, it
was lit from within by jagged blue neon,
turning even the darker parts irridescent
blue. I was on a motorcycle and we, the
storm and I, were headed straight for each
other. Any sane motorcyclist knows better
than to play chicken with a thunderstorm.
We lose.
I’ve ridden in the rain and it’s not that
special. A quick stop to don rain gear and
gloves nets me the protection I need to pro-
ceed. A thunderstorm is different, though. A thunder-
storm has fangs. Being pelted with hail, which I’ve
experienced, pales in comparison to what else a thun-
derstorm can do. There’s a reason death-row convicts
called execution by electrocution “riding the lightning.”
We’re basically an electrical circuit with a saltwater fill-
ing, so a human is a pretty good conductor. On a mo-
torcycle, there’s no enveloping, conducting Faraday
Cage to divert the amps around us. I love barbecues, but
I don’t fancy being the meat course.
The usual signs preceded it. An unusual calm de-
scended as the light faded, then the wind began with in-
creasing intensity, carrying with it the unmistakable
smell of rain. Tree leaves turned upside down, showing
their white bellies in fealty to the approaching storm. It
marched toward me as I rode toward it and I could see
the rain bands lashing down. Even my feeble mind
didn’t have trouble doing the math: at this rate of clo-
sure, I wasn’t going to make my destination.
There’s nothing like an approaching supercell to
make shelter the top priority on Maslow’s hierarchy of
need for a motorcyclist. I shifted navigation modes from
“destination” to “desperation” and began looking for the
usual suspects. Abandoned service station awnings do
all right. One time my wife and I spent the better part
of an hour huddled on the littered front porch of an
abandoned, condemned house. Sometimes a store will
appear and sometimes a bridge abutment has to do, forc-
ing you to watch while tractor-trailers thunder by your
abandoned bike, showering it with dirty mist. Even so,
if the cell spawns rotation, that bridge abutment is a
mighty fine place.
In this case, a kind soul standing in an empty service
station bay beckoned and soon I was inside with my
newest, latest best friend. As I put the stand down, the
first big drops hit the pavement outside like bursting
water balloons. Then came the storm, in all it’s electric
glory, the wind driving sheets of rain in seemingly ran-
dom directions, misting well into the garage. Telephone
wires waved. The smell changed from hot pavement
potpourri to storm perfume. Brilliant blue flashes lit the
sky and the thunder roared like God had his bass amp
turned up to eleven. There’s no sensory experience quite
like watching, hearing, feeling, and smelling a thunder-
storm, particularly when you’re sheltered.
We didn’t say much, my new friend and I, we just
watched in awed silence as the clouds retched all over the outside world. A
couple truck tires became my front-row seat. I got a pop from the cooler and
drank it as the show played. The storm’s anger was short-lived, as they tend
to be. It lasted a bottle of pop, then faded to a drizzle and a breeze. My new
friend and I talked bikes for a while as the rain abated, then my destination
beckoned. There was a handshake before the glove went on, then I pushed
out into the post-storm wet. A wave and a visor-down later, I was on my way
again as the storm spent itself on points East.
Out on the road, the rain was already rising in an eerie mist from the shock-
cooled pavement. To the West, the lowering
sun colored orange and red the striated
clouds in the wake of the storm. I felt like I
was riding through some director’s post-
apocalyptic movie set. The lighting design
should win an Academy Award. I rode on,
awash in my good fortune. There’s nothing
more awe-inspiring than the brutal majesty
of a thunderstorm, but as a motorcyclist,
gimme shelter. From my perspective, there’s
a lot of beauty in an old, green, greasy serv-
ice station bay with a handy stack of tires.
O N T H E M A R K
MARK BYERS
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 9
Long Island YAMAHA67 North Broadway • Route 107 • Hicksville, NY
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Come in today and take yours home.
$100 ANd 48 hours
The weather forecast for the next few days was high 80s
and dry; an uncommon event for the first week of Septem-
ber in northern Vermont. I knew the riding season would
end sooner than I would hope for. I had been inspired by
the articles in HOG Magazine for an adventure and the
challenge to see how far I could go on $100. I packed my
Softail Deluxe with my essential camping gear and took
off. My desire was to explore the Adirondacks in neigh-
boring New York.
My route from my home in the Northeast Kingdom of
Vermont took me west across my own beautiful state’s
farmland and villages. I arrived in Montpelier to eat my
packed lunch on the lawn of the capital. A few hours later, I was crossing
Lake Champlain via ferry to the equally beautiful landscape of New York. I
spent the twenty minute crossing answering the curiosities of several inter-
ested passengers on my travels and operation of my bike. It proved to be the
first of many comments of my “braveness” of traveling solo – apparently an
unusual occurrence for a woman. I hadn’t planned any routes to take and
when I came to an intersection, I often chose the path least traveled. I was
accustomed to rural and mountainous travels; however, I was unprepared for
the beauty of the many lakes, ponds, forests and vistas of
the Adirondacks. As evening was approaching, my lack
of planning was not transporting me by any campgrounds,
so at my first gas fill-up, I purchased a map and was able
to locate the nearest state campground. Arriving just be-
fore closing time, I inquired about staying for the
night. After being asked if I was traveling alone, I was
told the campground was full. I explained that I wouldn’t
take up much more room than my bike did and though I
would love the freedom to camp off the edge of these des-
olate roadways, I did not want to risk my safety. I was
alone, but not foolish. A call to the manager and a cry of
desperation for the solo lady on the big bike and I was
in. I set up my homestead for the night, jumped in the lake
to wash off the road grime and ate my meal of cup of soup and beef jerky. I
had put on 143 miles that day. The night was warm and the full moon re-
flected on the lake beside my tent. Life doesn’t get much better than this.
I had an early start at sunrise and after getting my bearings from the map
I purchased the day before, I headed for Lake Placid. A long winding road
transported me to mountain vistas, lakes and streams that appeared too pris-
tine to be real. The first indication that I arrived at my destination was the
towering ski jumps from past Olympic games. A short distance from there,
I entered what emulated a European ski town coupled
with the hustle and bustle of an affluent society. I must
admit, while I stretched my legs along the paths of the
lake, I felt a bit out of place with my leathers amongst
the designer clad, sweet smelling, strolling tourist of the
town. It propelled me to ride again.
Taking a southwestern route out of town, I cruised by
countless waterways, often without seeing any other
travelers on the byways until I arrived in the small lake-
side communities. I fell upon the Adirondack Museum
in Blue Lake. The entry fee was $20, a bit more than I
dared spend and stay in budget. I was able to use the
facilities and pick up some Adirondack history by pe-
rusing the books in the museum store. Back on the bike
and my next goal was Lake George. The crowds made
me to an “about face” and head back into the woods. I
was prepared to spend $20 on my campsite this night,
but as the road warrior gods would have it, this state
campground’s attendants had gone off duty hours before
my arrival and left a sign of “Welcome. Choose your
spot.” Another sunset swim, warm dinner and the added
luxury of a campfire thanks to the many campers that
had left wood behind. I had racked on another 158
miles.
My third day on the road brought me to Crown Point,
NY to hitch the ferry back to Vermont where the warm
sun was baking the crops of corn and freshly cut hay to
aloft their sweet aromas. As the miles passed bringing
me back home, I reflected on the many gifts the wind
and road had allotted.
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Page 10 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD Donna Sherburne
The Journal of J.T. Hart
Brian,
You’ve done a fantastic job with the Journal. Congratulations and thank
you. We both love it. Will you send Cheryl Hart a copy? Will other family
members of all four travelers be able to buy copies of this issue? We’ll look
forward to hearing about the feedback that you get on this story.
Best regards.
Ron & Terry Minor
Dear Brian,
Thank you very much for publishing this glorious and gritty saga. I took
your July Backroads with me on my annual B-day m/c camp out, this year
to Robert H. Treman St. Park just south of Ithaca, N.Y. By riding a reliable
Suzuki Volusia over smooth asphalt with an occasional construction zone to
a level, quiet campsite with a tent, cot, fire, food, etc. I’m trying to connect
to these days of touring when roads were still ditches and you could share a
clutch. My trip is a stroll down the block compared to this.
One of my favorite lines was the “pitiful remarks” made by Minor when
he skidded out: “Oh! My poor ankle. I know it is hurt!” I don’t think you
could print most of the words that come out of my mouth when I skid out.
Thanks again, and I love your magazine,
C. Olson - Valhalla, N.Y.
Be Careful Out There
I have sent you this because I want you to use caution while riding.
I was on Jackson Valley Road in Washington this afternoon (Sunday the
12th) when I caught “something” flying out of the corner of my eye. I heard
a WHAP and thought something flew out of my saddlebag. As my mind
processed the scene I realized the passing vehicle had thrown something at
me while riding. I looked down while riding and saw that my left saddlebag
was covered with what looked like chocolate pudding and some white/yellow
stuff. By the time I realized what had really happened, the truck was gone in
the opposite direction. I continued to the Quick Chek in Washington where
I cleaned the mess off with a wet paper towel. It looked like the contents of
a chocolate creme pie. On my trip home I slowed at the point where it hap-
pened and saw the crust in the road so my suspicions were correct on what
had been thrown. Since I wasn’t paying particular attention to the vehicle
before the incident, I recall it may have been a dark grey or black SUV or
pickup.Later in the evening I was relaying what had happened to a friend
that was on a Ninja. He told me that he was on Route 46 near Steiger Street
in Hackettstown going about 30 mph when someone threw something at him
that bounced off his full face helmet, hit a car windshield and cracked it. In
his case it turned out to be a NJ license plate that was folded in half then
folded into a triangle and tossed out the window by a passing car. My incident
was reported to the Washington Twp PD, his was reported to Hackettstown
PD.
Both these incidents occured in Warren County, New Jersey. I have no
idea if this is a new thing or whether it is going on elsewhere. The potential
danger is obvious. The friend that had the plate thrown at him had a signif-
icant scratch that started on the side of his helmet and continued to the wind-
shield. If that had been a half helmet, the results would have been disastrous.
Like Phil Esterhaus (from Hill Street Blues) used to say, ‘Hey...Lets be
careful out there!’
Brian and Shira,
Thank you for holding some nice rallies several times a year. Thank you
for being the voice of reason with your editorials and lifestyle in regards to
sane motorcycling. Thank you for providing a free ad for the NewRoc HOG’s
fundraiser. Lastly, thank you for turning me on to the SkyRoll, which will
allow me to pack my tuxedo when I go to the ballroom dance weekends in
the Catskills. Thank you, thank you, thank you. BYRD
An Excellent Trip in the Making
Hey Brian and Shira,
I respect you two as the backbone of my FAVORITE MOTORCYCLE
MAGAZINE (and I get a bunch). Anyway....I’m leaving with two other solid
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 11
BACKLASH Letters to the Editor
Wheel Sport Center Inc.399 HUGUENOT ST • NEW ROCHELLE, NY
914.636.7235 • fax 914-636-6184www.newrocyamaha.com
Franchised Yamaha Dealer for over 50 Years
Head to the Finger LakesBMW Rally the weekendof Sept. 3-5 and join us on theWatkins Int’l Racetrack Charity Tour
Sat., Sept. 3 at Noon.Good fun and great cause. Visit our website for full details.
How a 3-day weekend turnsinto a 6-week vacation.
citizens from our group, Hudson Valley Harley Riders out of New City, Rock-
land County, NY, on a ride to ALASKA.
First stop Calgary for a day at the Stampede, then Banff and Lake Louise.
From there we ride to Fairbanks, Denali (Mt. McKinley), Anchorage and
then Kenai for some fishin’.
Returning back to Canada we will head to Vancouver to meet with the
wives for 5 days exploring Vancouver Island, Seattle, to Sturgis via Yellow-
stone, and the Beartooth Higway. Eventually to Sturgis and home via some-
where else.
All the best,
Mark Weinstein
Mark and crew: have an awesome time - sounds like an adventure for sure.
Put together some words with the pictures, we’d love to see it. Be safe and
have FUN!
B & S
Hi Brian,
Your magazine is so terrific it is difficult to think of any way to improve
it. However, I do have one suggestion regarding routes and locations of the
various road trips that are described so well with many great pictures. The
starting and/or ending location is usually easy to find in the write-up, but for
many of us not familiar with the location of a city in a particular state, a little
picture of the state (and perhaps one or two adjoining states) with a high-
lighted or blacked out area showing the general area of the route described
would be very helpful for the reader to decide if the location is close enough
to contemplate a ride (to that area). The way it is now, the reader has to either
get out a paper map or go to the computer to find the location of the city
within a given state; not a big chore, but one that could be eliminated with
just a bit more info shown pictorially.
Thanks for listening.
Dave Trabert, Richboro, Pa
Dave,
We have looked at several different mapping programs and haven’t found
any that we like. We’ll keep looking - meanwhile keep your maps handy.
1300 Clements Bridge RdDeptford NJ 08096
856-848-8500Shop www.dhy.com 24/7
Join Us For Our OPEN HOUSESATURDAY, JULY 30 • 9A-4P
whAtchAthiNkiN’ (Continued from Page 6)
weight and warmth, which include a pair of Held Warm N Dry that I picked
up in Germany (told you I had a glove problem). Rounding out the list is my
toasty Gerbing heated for ultimate comfort on those cold days.
So, what do I reach for on any particular day? If I’m just doing an errand
or heading out for a short lunch ride my weapon of choice is my Honda. The
protection I wrap myself in would depend on temperature; warm to hot means
it’s the Airglide while cool to comfortable brings out the Morocco/AST
combo. Short ride selection for footwear would be the IXS; these have been
worn to death and have pretty much formed to the shape of my foot but have
long lost their waterproofness. Not to seem too girly, I do like to somewhat
color-coordinate so on comes the Nolan.
When heading out for a domestic road trip out comes the BMW with its
deep bags and long-distance ability. Again the weather certainly plays into
the equation, but since there’s no heading back to the closet if the weather
turns, I’m more apt to reach for the Olympia AST with its great venting and
pretty dependable waterproof hide, especially when the liner is zipped in. No
question I’m donning the Forma GTs as these hold their water well and han-
dle any amount of walking that may come into play. Out comes the Schuberth
and I’m ready to roll.
Constants on any ride are at least two pair of gloves, regular and rain, sun-
glasses, Hedz neckwear, PlugUps custom ear plugs and my trusty CamelBak.
Sure there’s a lot more stuffed in my tankbag, but these are the staples.
What about when heading somewhere on a plane, you ask? Since I’m not
in need of the Autocom set up on both bikes, I’m likely to take the newest
helmet or one in-house for testing and the gear really depends on the climate
of the riding location.
Good gear, what we preach here at Backroads Central, is essential. Some
find it in the well-worn leather jacket they’ve had since day one, others re-
quire the state-of-the-art, top-of-the-line newest, bestest there is. Whatever
suits your needs or budget, please make sure you are well-covered. And don’t
skimp on the gloves.
CROSSROADS BED AND BREAKFASTCome stay and ride with us. Our location, at the intersection ofRoutes 7 and 17 in Central Vermont, is just minutes away from
four of Vermont’s famous gaps, with direct access to the Adirondacks
802-453-5958
www.crossroadsbb.net
4571 Ethan Allen PkwyRoute 7
New Haven, VT
SPECIAL
BIKERRATES
frEE whEEliN’ (Continued from Page 4)
As I have said countless times we as riders need to put our best foot forward
– all the time.
Opening a door for the elderly while holding your helmet can go a long
way.
We are ambassadors for our sport, livelihood or lifestyle – whatever you
chose to call it - it behooves us to be as polite, accessible and friendly as we
can be.
We have a hard time with public relations as it is….
For me right now, if they allow a Prius to park I would hope they would
allow a motorcycle or scooter as well.
Sometimes all animals are equal.
Page 12 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
MAINE ADOPTS PRACTICAL TESTFOR MEASURING MOTORCYCLE SOUND
Maine has adopted a simple yet reliable testing procedure that allows mo-
torcyclists to prove their bikes don’t violate Maine’s motor vehicle sound
law, the American Motorcyclist Association reports. Under a new law that
went into effect on May 26, motorcyclists ticketed for excessive sound emit-
ting from their motorcycle exhausts can go to a certified inspection station
for sound testing. There, the exhaust system would be tested using the So-
ciety of Automotive Engineers (SAE) J2825 stationary sound testing proce-
dure — “Measurement of Exhaust Sound Pressure Levels of Stationary
On-Highway Motorcycles” — which the SAE developed and adopted with
support from the Motorcycle Industry Council in May 2009. Under the SAE
J2825 standard, which the AMA has endorsed, decibel limits range from 92
dBA at idle for all motorcycles, to 100 dBA at certain RPMs for various mo-
torcycles, depending on the type of engine. If a motorcycle meets these limits
during the certified testing, then it is evidence that the motorcycle doesn’t
violate the state’s sound law. “This new law is good news for responsible
motorcyclists who ride in Maine because it provides an objective way to
prove that a motorcycle doesn’t violate the state’s sound law, rather than re-
lying on subjective judgments,” said Imre Szauter, AMA government affairs
manager. “We applaud the state of Maine — the first in the nation — for
adopting the SAE J2825 standard.” The AMA has long
maintained a position of strong opposition to excessive
motorcycle sound. The SAE J2825 standard is at the
heart of model legislation developed by the AMA for
use by jurisdictions seeking a simple, consistent and
economical way to deal with sound complaints related
to on-highway motorcycles within the larger context of
excessive sound from all sources.
MOTORCYCLES RETURN TO JORDAN
After a 27-year hiatus, motorcycle licensing and reg-
istration returns to the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan,
thanks to King Abdullah II whose instructions were to
establish a non-profit organization to organize motor-
cycle registration and ownership in the Kingdom and
provide a safe and professional training program which
resulted in the creation of the Royal Motorcycle Club
of Jordan who, in turn, contacted the Motorcycle Safety
Foundation in 2009. As a result, on June 23, the RMCJ
will celebrate the grand opening of its MSF-recognized
Training Center in Jordan. Like the MSF, the RMCJ’s
Training Center embraces the notion that all riders need
a strong knowledge base, finely tuned skills and a
safety-first mindset that includes risk management
strategies in order to enjoy motorcycling to its fullest.
The MSF’s 23 separate RiderCourses, like some of the
programs adopted by the RMCJ, are designed to pro-
vide a lifelong action plan to keep motorcycling seri-
ously safe and fun.
“We are very pleased to be bringing motorcycling
back to Jordan with rider safety as a top priority,” said
Omar Zarour, General Manager of the Royal Motorcy-
cle Club of Jordan. “And we appreciate the MSF’s as-
sistance in developing a program and facility that will
help achieve our goals.”
The RMCJ’s Training Center incorporates versions
of MSF curricula that were adapted to the specific traf-
fic and roadway needs in Jordan. Other aspects of the
RMCJ’s Safety Training Program include site manage-
ment, program administration, student enrollment, Rid-
erCoach training and certification, and more. As part of
the program development, two RMCJ representatives
traveled to the U.S. for training, which included suc-
cessfully completing the 65-hour MSF RiderCoach
Preparation Course.
Now when do we leave on tour?
SCHUBERTH C3 AND C3W - NOW APPROVED FORJ&M COMMUNICATION SYSTEM INSTALLATION
Schuberth North America customers will now be able to have J&M corded
headsets installed in a C3 or C3W motorcycle helmet.
“Although the Schuberth Rider Communication System allows riders to
easily install a fully integrated Bluetooth system into a Schuberth C3 or
C3W,” reports Randy Northrup, Schuberth North America’s General Man-
ager, “we know that some riders would prefer to be wired into current on-
bike systems or to use CB radio. Customers who currently own J&M systems
can be assured that when they purchase a new C3 or C3W that J&M will
have a solution for connectivity to their bike and passengers.”
Customers who wish to have a J&M headset installed in a C3 or C3W will
need to purchase the helmet from an authorized Schuberth dealer and either
send the helmet to J&M or see them on-site at a motorcycle event.
“After getting our helmets tested and approved for use with the J&M in-
tegrated headset, we are happy to be able to offer this option for Schuberth
customers since J&M offers some of the best communications systems avail-
able,” says Northrup.
Details about the C3 and C3W helmets and dealer locations are available
on the Schuberth website: www.Schuberth.com
(Continued on Page 15)
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 13
INDUSTRY INFOBITES News from the Inside
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22 COUNTY ROUTE 78 • MIDDLETOWN NY 10940(in the Patton’s Auto Body Bldg.) 845-956-2200Major Credit Cards Accepted • Gift Certificates Available
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timE trAvEl
The ride I promised myself for Saturday morning soon turned into Satur-
day afternoon and ultimately it made its way to the back burner until Sunday
late in the day. Chores now completed, children dutifully parented for the
time being, I needed some bike time; 100 miles to be exact as I was still
working on those all-important break-in miles on a new machine.
With temperatures finally creeping past 50
degrees I was happy to see a group of four rid-
ing sport bikes just up ahead on the otherwise
deserted beach road. One guy had a girl on
the back of his Honda CBR. Using my well
practiced powers of observation I surmised I
was looking at an approximately 20 year old
tush as I soon caught up and passed them. I
noticed that one of the guys was on a diminu-
tive but very attractive looking 250 Ninja
which as I later learned was as perfect for him
as my own Honda 250 had been for me when
I was a neophyte rider.
The guy on the CBR turned up the testos-
terone a bit and we might have exceeded the
speed limit for a few moments before I waved
goodbye and the five of them waved back.
The judicious use of full face helmets and rid-
ing gear seemed to be a good indication that
this group would survive the season.
So, I had some concerns when, after I
stopped for a few minutes they never appeared
in my mirrors. There are few places to pull off
on this roadway so I couldn’t help wondering
if someone was stuck or worse, they crashed.
I made a U-turn at the next opening in the me-
dian. What the hell. I needed about another
40 break in miles anyway.
Seems the group had also made a U-turn
and they were now somewhere in front of me.
I didn’t see them again until I rounded the exit
ramp that marks the end of this 15 mile two
lane stretch of road. Two of them and the pas-
senger were stopped and having a not too
pleasant looking conversation with a couple
of park police. The other two were riding
slowly past the scene trying to bridge the gap
between them by shouting to one another
across the traffic lanes. Being stuck behind
them this would normally annoy me but I
knew they were addressing their comrades’
predicament.
It seemed pretty clear that the earthbound
members of the group had just got pinched for
speeding. The two that escaped the long arm
of the law found a small shoulder to pull off
on so they could talk and I kept going. Noth-
ing to see or do here. I got about three miles
before turning back again. Something was
tugging at my memory. Ahh yes, my first en-
counter with the police while I was on two wheels. Seems they didn’t like
the idea of pulling my childhood buddy on his skateboard while he held onto
a rope tethered to my unlicensed moped. The cop could have caused me quite
a bit of grief and probably got that moped taken away from me for good by
a barely tolerating mom as it were, but he followed me home and made sure
I parked it. His words and kindness sunk in because I got the thing properly
licensed the next day as mom had demanded before I ride it in the first place.
I got back to find the two guys still talking. Yes, their friends had been
going about 165 (doubtful) yes they were stopped by the police (certainly)
and of course, both of them had permits only and no licenses (often, when it
comes to 20 somethings on motorcycles).
We talked a little about bikes, riding and tickets and it was clear the two
were smart enough to be glad they didn’t get stopped and not arrogant enough
to think it had anything to do with their riding prowess. There was some
guilt about leaving their friends but also an understanding that going back
meant there would be two more tickets issued for unlicensed riders.
Through a cell phone conversation with the roadside soon-to-be jailbirds
we learned that the kind officers were actually not going to give out triple
digit speeding tickets. They were unfor-
tunately, considering impounding the
bikes because of the licensing issues.
Looking at the two guys and seeing
the fear in their eyes for the plight of
their comrades brought back memories
of summers long ago. Chris and I would
ride side by side for miles while shoot-
ing across 41 to Miami for a weekend
of fun after work was over. There was
more than one discussion with some
good police officers who taught us a few
lessons and ultimately sent us on our
way. It took a few of these little lectures
but they sunk in quickly enough to keep
us alive. Then there was Greg, Mark,
Artie and Ron and the week-long trip
down south. There were occasional dis-
cussions with police – all of them in fact
more good than bad. Yeah there was the
time…..suddenly, one of the young guys
called me “sir” and I remembered what
century I was in.
So, I rode back to the scene of the
crime to find two unbelievably under-
standing officers. My friend with the
young lass on the Honda was all but a
free man with only a ticket for operating
a vehicle out of class although the bike
had to stay. The officers then agreed to
let me follow the two guys’ home to ful-
fill the requirements of having a li-
censed rider with them so the bikes did
not have to ride shotgun on a flatbed
after all. This was despite the fact that
there seemed to be some suspicion that
my young charges had tried to elude the
pursuing officers a few minutes earlier;
on a dead straight road nonetheless. The
sheepish looks on their faces when I
asked if that was true left no doubt. It
seems that they only stopped because
one of the bikes gave out and the police
pulled up. How shortsighted. Don’t you
guy know about radios?
Although, in 1989 I unknowingly
blew past an officer in the dark of night
on a ruler straight Route 941. I was well
into the triple digits and as an added
oddity I happened to be wearing a black
tuxedo. All of the finest scofflaws do, don’t you know? The only reason he
didn’t catch me was that I ran out of gas and the bike coasted in the moonless
night in complete silence – right into the high weeds fringing the Everglades.
The now lit up patrol car sailed past me. It didn’t even dawn on me that I
was the one who attracted his attention in the first place and I wondered what
emergency he was racing to that evening. So, in my ignorance, I flipped the
reserve on and restarted the bike – my headlight shining like a beacon through
the grasses. The resulting Hollywoodesque squealing 180 the police car ex-
ecuted alarmed the egrets, the alligators and me in that order. In a split second
I knew that the officer would never believe that I did not even know I was
the pursuee and the bike losing all vital signs was a mere fortuitous coinci-
Page 14 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
INSIDE THE HELMET Jeffrey Kurtzman
dence as opposed to a deliberate effort to go into stealth mode. And how the
hell do I even begin to explain why I was wearing a tuxedo on a bike? What
followed then was a very deliberate effort to flee as I quickly pulled out and
rode two miles before hiding the bike behind the trailer I called home for the
time being. Then, I tucked myself under the covers as the spotlight from the
cruiser panned across the little units that made up the development.
I snapped out of my reverie in time to ask the guys if the officers were
going to find any issues after they returned from checking licenses and reg-
istrations. It was at that point the downward cast of a pair of eyes told me
all I needed to know. I was sure one of the guys was not going to make it
home in time for Sunday dinner that night. How did you know sir? He asked
as he hurriedly explained that he had taken the plate off of his 1999 Yamaha
and clipped it on his dad’s unregistered GSXR that was now sitting before
me. Look back a few paragraphs and see the previous aforementioned
moped/skateboard tale my boy. The lack of a license plate has failed to stymie
the will of many a lad from going for a ride when Spring arrives. Judging
by the young man’s halfhearted attempts to reach his father on the cell phone
it seemed he was more interested in facing roadside justice than pop’s wrath
at having his bike pinched. The grim look on the troopers’ faces when they
returned from their car confirmed that they discovered the deception. Even
with this newest charge the angry officers were still trying to help the guy
by insisting he reach his dad so they would not have to impound the bike.
Junior had given up the ghost and he now actually looked like a ghost when
the officers asked him to call his mother so they could talk to her. I expect
his dad is paying the police impound yard ransom right about now and his
son, Jesse James has made a run for the border thinking he committed a hang-
ing offense.
My friend on the Honda told me that this was his first season riding and
both the officer and I questioned his judgment when it came to topping over
a hundred with a young lady on the back. I would never do anything as ir-
responsible as that – well there was that girl in San Francisco. We would
wait until the streets were empty and the city was asleep. Then, we would
blast through that wonderful town; helmetless and occasionally catching a
little air as the bike flew over the hills. Decorum and the desire for a happy
marriage today forbids me from continuing.
When the officers asked her for her name and contact information, despite
a tough looking little barbell pierced through her eyebrow, the young lass on
the back of the Honda broke down in tears. I tried to look serious as she
shook her head yes to each of my questions. Yes, her mom was unaware she
was seeing someone with a bike; yes she would kill her if she found out and
yes he routinely let her off a few blocks from home so mom would not know.
How did you guess sir? Because that is the way it is supposed to work with
young men, girls and motorcycles my dear. You’ll understand that all too
soon and the world will be a little duller for it.
Soon, we were on the road and safely back at the Honda rider’s house. A
few more thank you sirs (a little grey hair will earn you those sometimes)
and we parted ways – them promising to get licenses and me wondering if
they knew how lucky they were. And not for getting away with a few tickets
- but to be young and respectful enough to be scared stiff on the side of the
road for a while, to be redeemed by some good fortune that day and to think
that a ticket or two, an impounded bike and an angry dad were going to affect
their lives forever. I (and probably those generous officers as well) got to
take a trip that spanned three decades in less than an hour. It was a good
break in ride for all of us.
iNfobitEs (Continued from Page 13)
VICTORY RIDE APP FOR YOUR SMART PHONE
Created by the devoted motorcycle enthusiasts at Victory Motorcycles, Vic-
tory Rides is a must-have app for the true American biker. With this app,
everything you need for adventures on the open road is only the touch of your
finger away.
Included features include displaying your current location, weather condi-
tions, forecasts and advisories for any location, find and contact Victory deal-
ers, local services search with integrated direct dialing, including gas stations,
restaurants, and lodging, save waypoints along your route, track and save
multiple rides, automatic map caching so maps can still be viewed while on
the trail and outside of data coverage areas, share saved routes to Twitter or
Facebook and export route data in GPX or CSV format.
You can find it at the App Store under Victory Rides and it’s free!
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 15
thE bAttlE of hubbArdtoN
vErmoNt’s oNly rEvolutioNAry bAttlEfiEld
Many riders who think they know history might tell you that the giant mon-
ument in Bennington is in honor of the Revolutionary Battle fought there.
Truth is that battle was actually fought a bit west in New York. But, Vermont
does have its own hallowed ground, miles north at Hubbardton.
This battle, if it had gone the other way, would have changed everything
and we dare say this nation would not be the same if not for Colonel Seth
Warner and the Green Mountain Boys.
Our Patriot Army was in retreat from Burgoyne’s Red Coats. When these
exhausted men had marched over 20 miles, reaching the hills of Hubbardton,
they transferred a number of soldiers from the main army to the rear guard.
The main army would continue their southward retreat and the rear guard,
now numbering 1,000 to 1,200 men,
would protect them from the pursuing
British.
Rear guards were a standard military
security strategy to protect retreating
troops. The mission of a rear guard is
to delay the enemy in their pursuit,
force the enemy to deploy all their
forces in action with the rear guard, en-
gage the enemy in such a way as to
avoid close combat, and to withdraw
safely as soon as possible.
Colonel Seth Warner led the ex-
panded American rear guard. It con-
sisted of his Green Mountain Boy
Continental regiment and some militia;
Colonel Francis leading a portion of his
Massachusetts Continental regiment
and selected units from other regi-
ments; and Colonel Nathan Hale with his 2nd New Hampshire Continental
Regiment and a number of sick and stragglers.
The advancing British were seasoned Regulars, superior to the Americans
in training, experience, and equipment. They consisted of Brigadier General
Simon Fraser, one of Burgoyne’s best line officers, and his elite Advance
Corps; Major Robert Grant with his 24th Regiment of Foot; Major Alexander
Lindsay leading the British light infantry; Major John Acland with the British
grenadiers; and Major General Baron von Riedesel and his German
Brunswick troops.
As darkness turned to dawn the sultry morning of July 7, Warner’s rear
guard was encamped in the vicinity of what is now called Monument Hill.
The exhausted men were resting before continuing south to join St. Clair’s
troops at Castleton.
At 5:00 a.m. American pickets in the saddle near Sargent Hill, to the north-
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Page 16 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
BIG CITY GETAWAY daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind
Rip & Ride® • THE BATTLE OF HUBBARDTONVERMONT’S ONLY REVOLUTIONARY BATTLEFIELD
NORTH ON RTE. 100LEFT AT RTE. 30RIGHT AT RTE. 7 NORTH
RIGHT AT RTE. 4LEFT AT RTE. 100LEFT AT RTE. 73 BRANDONS GAP
BEAR LEFT AT SETH WARNER HIGHWAY RTE. 30LEFT AT MONUMENT HILL RD.FOLLOW SIGNS TO BATTLEFIELD
west of Monument Hill, spotted
approaching British scouts. The
pickets fired, and moved back to
join their main body. By 6:30, as
the first British soldiers reached
Sucker Brook, the American de-
laying companies started
firing-killing Major Grant
and 21 others. Thus began
the Battle of Hubbardton,
the first time Burgoyne’s
army met the resistance
and bravery of Ameri-
cans in battle.
Some of the American rear guard
moved to a strategic defensive location atop Monument
Hill, which they had prepared the day before by cutting
down trees so the tangle of outstretched branches faced
the enemy. The British attacked the hill, but were re-
pulsed and forced back to their former position.
The Americans returned to the hilltop and again the
British attacked and were repulsed. The battle continued
on as the British tried to encircle the Americans, who
consolidated their position behind a brush fence on the
east side of the road to Castleton. British General Fraser
realized he needed reinforcements to win the battle and
sent word to von Riedesel, following behind, to join
him.
British grenadiers, trying to keep the rear guard from
retreating southward, scrambled up the rugged Pittsford
Ridge mountain, well to the east beyond the fence, and
formed a human barrier across the road and up the
mountain. By 8:30 a.m. von Riedesel’s Brunswickers
had arrived, with a band playing loudly and soldiers
singing hymns. They attacked the American northern
flank, which was just about to trap the British on their
left. In the fierce fighting on the mountain Colonel Fran-
cis was killed. The rest of the American rear guard with-
drew as best as they could over Pittsford Ridge. There
was occasional gunfire along the ridge for some time,
but by 8:45 a.m. the battle was over.
The American rear guard had successfully accom-
plished its mission. It fully deployed the pursuing
British, delaying them long enough so St. Clair and his
main army could safely retreat southward. These sol-
diers also skillfully disengaged from their enemy, fight-
ing the British to a near standstill, and avoiding further
American casualties and pursuit. The British held the
field after the fighting was over and in technical terms
won the battle, but their losses were so heavy that Gen-
eral Fraser gave up chasing St. Clair and his army. In-
stead, the British stayed at Hubbardton for several days
to care for the wounded and to bury their own dead.
They left the American dead on the field, and brought
the wounded and prisoners north to Mount Independ-
ence and Fort Ticonderoga.
The Battle of Hubbardton involved approximately
2,130 troops; 1,000 to 1,200 Americans, 850 British,
and 180 Germans. It resulted in the deaths of 41 Amer-
ican, 50 British, and 10 German soldiers. Of the 244
wounded 96 were American, 134 British, and 14 Ger-
man. The British took 234 American prisoners. Total casualties, including
prisoners, were roughly 27 percent of all participating troops.
This battle was the beginning of the end for Burgoyne and his great mili-
tary plan. On August 16 he suffered a stunning blow when Brigadier General
John Stark led American forces to defeat two detachments of Burgoyne’s
army sent to capture much needed supplies at the American arsenal in Ben-
nington, Vermont. Soon after the Battle of Bennington Burgoyne wrote about
the people of Vermont as “the most active
and most rebellious race on the continent”
and that they were hanging “like a gathering
storm” on his left. On October 17, 1777,
after the battles of Saratoga, he surrendered
with his entire Army.
Today visiting the battle site the area has
a peaceful and serene feel. The monument,
although small compared to the huge one in
Bennington, is stately and well suited for
the site. For a few dollars you can walk the
battlefield and small informative plaques
will tell the story.
Next time you’re riding in Vermont take
a spin to Hubbardton. This ride will start
from one of our favorite places in Vermont,
the Gray Ghost Inn.
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 17
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MEMBERMEMBER
Elk mountain homestead 401 homestead drive , benezette, PA 15821
(814) 787-5168 • experienceelkcountry.com
Right off of Pennsylvania’s triple nickel, Route 555, you will find a most
magical place.
When we were there the silence was deafening. Barn Swallows flitted
around us as we sat atop the silo overlooking something that had disappeared
years ago, only to be returned thanks to some forward-thinking people.
Elk. Huge, beautiful….majestic.
This was our second attempt at visiting the elk of Pennsylvania. Heavy
storms had stopped us after our Spring
Break and we were determined
to find us some elk.
Riding into Benezette we
headed to the new visitor’s cen-
ter. Opened just last Fall, it
gives the traveler a great insight on the elk and how and why this has all hap-
pened. The museum is great, but the movie is superb! Literally 4-D! It
snowed on us.
When we entered the visitor’s center, around 5pm, we were told the elk
probably wouldn’t return for a few hours as they take shelter in the shade
during the hot summer hours. We inquired about lodging in the area and were
told of a house that they have on the grounds; an old homestead that has been
redone to offer the best place in the region to view elk.
Why take a hotel room when you can have a home?
Three bedrooms, each with its own flavor; the Bunkhouse, the Louis
Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents
WE’RE OUTTA HERE a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
Page 18 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
A Motorcycle Is The Ultimate Toy,Vermont Is The Perfect Playground®
We put it together…The Gray Ghost Inn
Full breakfast cooked to order. BYOB bar, hot tub,outdoor firepit, pool and game room. Free Mapsand Suggested Rides. Group Special Packages.
5 restaurants/bars within walking distance.
290 Route 100 • West Dover, VT800-745-3615 • www.grayghostinn.com
Motorcyclist-Friendly Destination LodgingLocated on
Scenic Route 100in Southern Vermont
Your Home Away from Home
L’Amour room and, what we called the Hunter’s Room.
Up until this night we had never slept beneath a Tom Turkey or Bearskin. Now we have.
Whoever designed this place really deserves credit as it is Americana all the way.
Rates for the Homestead change seasonally, with peak season naturally being in the autumn months.
Base peak price is $200 per night for six people and lower in the summer months, as well as during the
week. Even better is that proceeds from your stay go back to help the elk and other wildlife through the
Keystone Elk Country Alliance. Check the site for full details.
Best of all is the Silo. Just a few steps from the Homestead there is a multi-story silo that has a sitting
area atop it. From here you can get a great view of the meadow where the elk come to forage each night.
When we arrived we spent some time at the Museum and then, as we wanted to see the elk, we headed
to the Benezette Hotel for a quick dinner. They have a great bar and restaurant and, if the Homestead is
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 19
too large or dear for you, they have rooms as well.
Fed and watered we headed back to the Visitor’s Center, taking in the very
interesting documentary of the elk.
At one time there were thousands of Elk in this region, but when Europeans
arrived they basically devastated the herds.
In the early 1900’s elk were reintroduced from the Rockies and since then
have flourished under the watchful eye of Pennsylvania.
These days the Visitor’s Center and Homestead are a small jewel of the
Keystone State.
They have also introduced fishers – much to the anger of local porcupines.
Back at the Homestead we made ourselves comfortable and then headed
up to the Silo for sunset and a bit of elk viewing.
A bottle of Pinot Noir came along and we were at the beginning of this
story. It really doesn’t get any better than this night.
Page 20 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
SUSSEXMOTORSPORTS446 Route 23 • Sussex, NJ • Located across from the A&P Shopping Plaza
Visit us at www.sussexmotorsportsnj.com973-875-3640 • Open Tuesday thru Saturday
47MPG
Estimated*MOTORCYCLEMADNESS8 State Hwy 94 • Lafayette, NJ • 973-579-6088 • 877-252-9828
Located 1/4 mile north of 206/94 intersectionand 1 mile north of Newton
Tues: 9-6 • Wed: 9-5 • Thurs: 10-8 • Fri: 10-5 • Sat: 9-2
Closed: Sunday and Monday
www.MadMotorcycle.com
HUGE selection of Parts and Accessories for cruisers and sportbikes
600 Helmets In Stock:Icon, Shoei, Suomy, HJC, Scorpion and more
HUGE selection of apparel:Mens and Womens - Street and Dirt
First Gear, Rocket, RIver Road, Fox,Thor, Alpinestar and much more
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Rip & Ride® • ELK MOUNTAIN HOMESTEAD401 HOMESTEAD DRIVE , BENEZETTE, PA 15821814-787-5168 • EXPERIENCEELKCOUNTRY.COM
PICK UP ROUTE 6 WEST OF SCRANTON, PABEAR LEFT AT ROUTE 87LEFT AT ROUTE 220RIGHT AT ROUTE 154 – WORLD’S END STATE PARK
LEFT AT ROUTE 14 – GROVER
RIGHT AT SR 2017 – OGDENSBURG RD
LEFT AT ROUTE 414RIGHT AT SR N 44 TO HAINEYVILLE
LEFT AT SR 1014 TO HYNER STATE PARK
RIGHT AT ROUTE 120 PAST RENOVO
BEAR LEFT AT ROUTE 555 TO BENEZETTE
FOLLOW RIGHT PAST HOTEL
CONTINUE UP HILL TO VISITOR CENTER
Below us workhorses snorted and stomped. Out in the field dozens of elk cows wandered out for an evening’s
meal, small calves along with them.
Suddenly to our left a huge male came out,
his antlers just starting to grow at this time
of the season.
We watched silently as the elk enjoyed the
first evening of summer with us.
So, other than the elk, the Homestead and
the Museum… why should you journey to
Elk Country?
Simple – some of the best riding in the
east!
This region has it all.
Now you know this little secret… what
are you waiting for?
Give them a call… book the Homestead.
Each year we do the Best of Backroads;
we’d have to be invited to the White House
for any place to top this.
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 21
Town and CountryCYCLE CENTER
115 Route 23N • Hamburg NJ • 973-875-2111www.townandcountrycyclecenter.com
Serving the motorcycling community for over 25 years
Tim Wineland
Evil rocks
A rAiNy Night iN gEorgiA guidEstoNEs couNtry
It is a dark and stormy night…
The rain pummels the metal roof. It is incessant, hopeless. It beats a rapid,
staccato cadence in the thick air of my tiny abode, into my brain. Unrelent-
ing; a demonic drum-roll reminding me of the misfortunes that guided me to
this place, this meager refuse; this squalid ten-by-twelve storage shed outside
a convenience store; outside Elberton, Georgia; just across the river from
South Carolina; just on the edge of in-
sanity. It reminds me that I have to pee.
My tortured mind remembers. I re-
member packing this morning for a
leisurely trip to see a strange and forlorn
obelisk: a stone enigma that defies logic
and geography; a monument to worldly
dreams or domination piled high in a
lowly cow pasture. I remember the
mysterious words of wisdom or worry,
I dare not say which, in various and ar-
chaic languages inscribed upon the
smooth rock faces. I remember now
where I left my rain suit.
I remember donning the rain suit
early as teasing showers lurked about;
sporadic spells of half-hearted drizzle,
but nothing of substance. Then they
were gone; dispelled by some mystic
wind as I arrived at my beguiling desti-
nation. Perhaps the artifact itself has
some power over atmospheric convec-
tion; perhaps it is immune to the laws of
nature and Georgia. The sky was sud-
denly blue, the air curiously calm – like
that before a storm, it seems to me now.
I recall removing my warm, waterproof coverings and marveling at the
bizarre structure before me: an immense granite monolith…no, a multi-lith;
a tribute to calligraphy, an insult to common sense. I remember the stark
runes emblazoned upon each surface of the towering atrocity and wondering
who, or what, had determined the omnipotent verbiage; and that it should be
displayed in the eight worldly scripts of English, Spanish, Swahili, Hindi,
Hebrew, Arabic, Chinese, and Russ-
ian – nine counting the graffiti. It
left no doubt as to why the French
despise us so.
Many learned folks insist the text
implores mankind to cooperate, to
seek understanding, to tread com-
mon cow pastures betwixt steaming
piles of political poo. Or maybe not.
The enlightened local scholars and
rural clergy have instead discovered
its true intent.
The stone absurdity is an abomi-
nation, an occultist’s calling card; a
“gift” from unknown persons for
unknown reasons, certainly evil. As
if in mocking disregard for all that
is sacred, a viewing hole is drilled
through the top stone and aligned to
the North Star. Having looked
through it during a weaker moment,
HARLEY-DAVIDSON/BUELL
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You are invited to attend our Open House starring
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Supporting Cast Includes:
Demo Rides • Free LunchThe Patch Lady
Live Music by GunsmokeEnd-of-Season Sidewalk Saleand 15% Off Licensed Products
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Page 22 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents
Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA
I now fear for my soul.
It makes sense; my vile predicament now has reason. I am imprisoned in
this musty metallic tomb because I frequented an atrocity, paid homage to
satanic stones, read blasphemous blathering, glimpsed an unholy hole. The
grotesque image is burned upon my brain; my eyes see naught but gruesome
granite piled in sacrilege to the sky, that fleeting, absurdly blue sky that so
quickly turned black and malicious and is imploring my bladder to burst…
Oh, the horror… the horror…
Georgia Guidestones, Elberton, Georgia:
In June of 1979, an unknown person or persons under the pseudonym R.C.
Christian hired Elberton Granit Finishing Company to build the structure.
The site was chosen for its remoteness and its source of granite, as Elbertson
promotes itself as the ‘Granite Capital of the World’. The location makes
some sense from a logistical point of view; but it boggles the mind as to why
such a rural landscape was chosen for such a mysterious message.
Apparently Mr. Christian left $50,000 in a local bank, told the locals that
they would never see him again, and vanished forever. The citizens of Nuberg
followed his instructions and in March of 1980 unveiled this ‘Stonehenge’
to the world. Well, somewhere between 100 and 400 people, anyway.
The following ‘rules’ are displayed in English, Spanish, Swahili, Hindi,
Hebrew, Arabic, Chinese, and Russian:
An Explanatory Tablet located on the grounds explains the curious astro-
nomical features, such as the precise alignment and viewing holes drilled
into the stones, as well as the daunting Physical Data: the four support stones
are over 16 feet high, weighing approximately 43,000 pounds each. The en-
tire structure looms to nearly 20 feet high and weighs in at around 107 tons.
Elberton is approximately two hours due east of Atlanta, one and a half-
hours southwest from Greenville, South Carolina. The physical address for
the Georgia Guidestones is 1065 Guidestones Rd., Nuberg, GA, just outside
of Elberton. For more information on this entry into Mysterious America,
you can google Georgia Guidestones or visit Elberton’s Granite Museum (1
Granite Plaza NW, Elberton, GA) where there is an exhibit about the Guide-
stones and additional information.
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 23
Maintain humanity under 500,000,000 in perpetual balance with nature.
Guide reproduction wisely - improving fitness and diversity.
Unite humanity with a living new language.
Rule passion - faith - tradition - and all things with tempered reason.
Protect people and nations with fair laws and just courts.
Let all nations rule internally resolving external disputes in a world court.
Avoid petty laws and useless officials.
Balance personal rights with social duties.
Prize truth - beauty - love - seeking harmony with the infinite.
Be not a cancer on the earth - Leave room for nature - Leave room for nature.
Vince Johnson
kAthy’s crAb housE ANd fAmily rEstAurANt
107 fifth strEEt/routE 9, dElAwArE city, dE • 302-834-2279
The two live crabs were crawling across the counter. Watching them made
me think, ‘Who decided you could eat a crab’. Whoever it was must have
been one very hungry person. I wondered if they invented beer also. Kathy,
her teenage son RJ, and Amy had let the crabs loose for some pictures.
Kathy’s originally opened as a small local seafood market in 1982 and
served only take-out for many years. In 2000 they built a new restaurant
with a small, attached lighthouse (not one to climb up) and an enclosed deck.
While it is a family-oriented restaurant, they do serve beer and wine and mo-
torcyclists are welcome.
Some of the items on their menu include appetizers like crab
bisque, steamed shrimp, clam
strips, hushpuppies, mozzarella sticks, and onion rings. They have tossed and
Caesar salads with chicken or shrimp. Subs include Italian, ham,
turkey, tuna and cheese steaks. The kids menu has hamburg-
ers, hot dogs and grilled cheese. The sandwich menu in-
cludes crab cakes, flounder, ham, turkey, Reuben and
chicken wraps. Dinner entrees include a corn muffin
and two choices of macaroni salad, potato salad, green
beans, coleslaw or fries along with the crab cakes,
flounder, scallops, chicken, turkey or meatloaf. There
is apple pie and the usual selection of beverages.
Kathy’s is located next to Route 9 and the Chesa-
peake and Delaware Branch Canal. Route 9 is a
pleasant motorcycle ride that partially winds its
way between Delaware City and Dover,
Delaware. Between Delaware City and
Dover there are no red lights and only a
few stop signs. The upper third follows
Page 24 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN tasty places to take your bike
the Delaware River and the Delaware Bay, while the
rest of it winds its way through farmlands and ends on
the East side of Dover Air Force Base. The C5 cargo
aircraft there are huge. It is about 40 miles and an hour
or so drive from Delaware City to Dover. It can be
slightly bumpy in places and there are no shoulders. As
it follows the river, it is a flat ride and barely above sea
level. If you travel it at high tide or when there are
strong onshore winds you will occasionally find your-
self driving below sea level through water that crosses
the road.
On the river side of Delaware City is Fort Delaware.
The ferry boat ride there takes about 10 minutes, and
you may easily spend several hours searching the Civil
War period Fort and the grounds of Pea Patch island.
There is a fee for the boat ride and entry. See
www.destateparks.com/park/fort-delaware/index.aspt
for information. The State Park is open on a limited
schedule from May thru September.
Over the years we have eaten at Kathy’s many times.
It is reasonably priced, although seafood market prices
vary considerably, has a pleasant atmosphere, and the
folks that work there have always been pleasant to us.
Like any restaurant they get crowded sometimes, but
we are rarely in a hurry these days.
Kathy’s is open seasonally from April thru October,
seven days a week from 11am to 9PM. Their web site is http://kathyscrab-
house.com/index.html. Their phone number is 302.834.2279. It is located at
107 Fifth Street (Route 9) in Delaware City, Delaware. The GPS coordinates
are N39.5708° & W75.5914°.
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 25
For many of you - us too - Americade is a yearly ritual. It signals a passage of the seasons when it doesn’t seem all that long ago we were shoveling snow,
then planting the garden, riding our Spring Break Rally and suddenly we find ourselves piloting down Canada Street along the southern shores of
beautiful Lake George, New York.
For two decades and a bit we have taken the quick ride from our home to the world’s largest motorcycle touring rally, located in the southern part of the
Adirondack Mountains. Most times we are on the road the weekend before and make a few stops before rolling into Americade; but this year we had the July
issue to finish and take care of a few things before escaping north.
We had planned a dawn departure that Tuesday, but with all done by early Monday afternoon we decided to skedaddle a day early and blasted off that Monday
afternoon.
Page 26 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
Americade - Back to the LakeBrian Rathjen
We meandered north along the eastern side of ‘The Gunks’ (Shawangunk
Mountains for you non-New Yorkers) and then made time on the Thruway
north and did the short 200 miles in superb time; rolling into town as the sun
was about to set.
We grabbed our townhouse, Backroads Central North, at the Inn at Erlow-
est and, after saying hi to our short-term neighbors and long-time friends,
we rode into town to take in the fairly light crowds and some Mexican chow.
The place was just starting to get full, but Monday evening made for a
great combination of people and bike watching.
Shira asked me what my first
thoughts were riding back after com-
ing here for so many years.
Truthfully it is something that hits
inside. And, it’s a good thing.
Many years and many smiles come
along with Americade. I was ready for
another great week.
Tuesday started with a run to the
Holiday Inn to get our wristbands, pay
the ever-increasing parking fee, and
say hello to a few friends along the
way.
Americade offers a multitude of ac-
tivities; but one cannot have the entire
Americade experience without visit-
ing the Tour Expo, located on the lake
and the Forum - the indoor version of the Expo. With the Forum right down
the road we went looking to see what was new.
There seemed to be plenty of tour operators playing up different place to
ride around the planet – always a good thing for us – and some neat new
products as well as some of the solid players in the motorcycle world.
Olympia Motosports had a huge booth and was doing a brisk business, as
were many others, and we made it a point to drop by Garmin as well to see
what was new and to get our GPS updated with the latest software.
Along the way we ran into Clement Salvadori.
Clem, whom you will find
each month in RIDER as well as
other motorcycle publications,
was representing the California-
based magazine and, in addition
to speaking and hosting a few
functions, he also was to share a
scoot with a lucky RIDER win-
ner who had won a contest to
ride with the famed journalist.
For many folks who read word
samurais like Clement Salvadori
and others each month in the na-
tional magazines, getting a
chance to ride with and spend
some time with such scribes can
be a chance of a lifetime. We
thought for Clement it was a bit
like being raffled off for a celebrity date. But, Clem is always a good sport.
After chatting with him a bit we thought it would be fun to tag along. If
anything we would get us a chance to ride with our world-traveling friend.
Right on time Rory Anderson, from Lancaster, Pennsylvania joined Clem
and the four of us took off
north along the lake and
then west on Route 8, one
of my favorite roads in
the region. We eventually
had a late lunch at a small
place in Chester.
All in all it was a great
ride and enjoyable lunch,
Rory being an interesting
fellow and a pleasure to
be with.
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 27
By this time the two-wheeled traffic was ever-
increasing and after lunch we headed down to
the Tour Expo to take it all in before things got
really crowded.
The previous few days had been rather pleas-
ant but we were warned of some pretty hot days
in store.
By the time we were done with the Tour Expo
it was certainly time to retreat to our townhouse
and the nearby pool for the rest of the afternoon.
Somewhere around 6ish our friends Michael
and Nuri, from Rising Wolf Garage, arrived. We
have been sharing a place with these folks for
more than two decades (wow!) and it was nice
to have our little Americade family back to-
gether.
That evening we rode down to Fort William
Henry, the site of the famed siege during the
French & Indian War and the inspiration for
James Fenimore Cooper’s Last of the Mohicans.
For years most of the activities and demo
rides Americade is famous for were run out of
the Roaring Brook Ranch, but this year every-
thing was moved to the centrally-located Fort
on the lake. Excellent location.
This year also saw the re-
turn of many manufac-
turer’s demo fleets, with a
full fourteen OEMs trailer
machines to be ridden,
tested and enjoyed by
Americaders. Most brought
up full fleets, but some just
brought up their newest offering. Still it was
good to see all the manufacturers supporting
the great American rally.
This night there were a number of excellent
seminars. Riding guru Lee Parks, followed by
Clem Salvadori and perennial Americade fa-
vorite Fred Rau. We hung around for a bit of
each and then took off to find some late night
dining and a run through town that was getting
more and more full each evening.
Wednesday promised to be a scorcher, as a
serious heat wave had moved into the north-
east, so we got out early and proceeded to try
our best at getting lost.
Well…. as lost as you can get with the now
‘ever present’ Garmin GPS on both machines
and US Military satellites keeping track high
above.
Still we managed to find some great roads
a bit off the beaten track and a few miles on
well-groomed gravel to give the GSs a little
‘crudentials’.
Heading west into the Adirondack Park we
had to keep an eye on the clock as we had a lunch gathering we needed to at-
tend around noon on the lake.
At 11:30 I asked the Zumo the best way to get back to Lake George and a
few seconds later we were vectoring on that route – just 25 minutes out.
While moving on the bike, with plenty of cooling air making its way into
our Olympia vented riding gear it seemed like the perfect day.
I had some classic Chicago working softly in the headsets and all was right
with the world. Heading past Lake Luzerne there was a road block up ahead
Page 28 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
Photo: Mike Fischer
Photo: Mike Fischer
Photo: Ken Kelly
with the highway department telling us to head
down an unmarked road and to bear left to get
back on Route 9N.
I wondered what would cause road workers to
put up a makeshift detour. Roadwork is usually
planned weeks or months ahead of time with
semi-permanent detour signs put up a day or two
before work begins.
Shira radioed the same thought to me and we
worried that something bad might have happened.
As detours go this was a delightful change of
plans, as this tiny road was most excellent, but
when we popped back out onto Route 9N I saw
this side of the road was blocked by Sheriff’s cars.
I signaled one young officer over and asked
what was up.
“Motorcycle accident,” he said matter-of-factly.
“Is everybody all right?” I inquired.
“Well”, he said a bit too flippantly, “the semi-truck driver is fine but the
two bikers are dead”.
My heart sank as the beautiful sunny day had just darkened quite a bit.
We heard later that the accident involved a semi carrying steel I-beams
that was cut off, by a motorcyclist, and had stopped short causing one of the
badly secured steel beams to swing off to the side of the truck, killing the
approaching rider and his passenger, two Canadians, in-
stantly.
Very sad to hear, but things like this are constant con-
cerns to we riders – although I don’t think anything
could have been done in a freakish accident such as this.
Our thoughts to them and their families.
We like to split up Americade between fun and busi-
ness and many times a sweet combination of both.
Lunch with our friends from Whitehorse Press is al-
ways a treat and a good chance to catch up with a few
of the other scribes in the motorcycle world.
After lunch that afternoon Shira was on a mission.
A very cool and tasty mission; as she was in the mid-
dle of her summer ice cream runs and had seen a
“Throwdown with Bobby Flay” that pitted New York’s
favorite chef against a woman who owned a place called
The Ice Cream Man.
We had a great ride and even greater ice cream and
then rode east to the border with Vermont then north
back towards the Lake George region.
That night Ken Condon, safety writer for Motorcycle
Consumer News, had a very instructional seminar and
drew a decent crowd. Folks like Ken are well worth
reading and the knowledge safety experts can infuse
into you just might save your life.
We bounced around that evening visiting some
friends for dinner and making it an early night.
A few days earlier Shira had watched some folks
parasailing over the lake and commented how she al-
ways wanted to do this.
As I live to please her I surprised her with a little
flight the next morning.
Strapped into two very secure har-
nesses the powerboat picked up speed
and before we knew it we were 300
feet above the water with a wonderful
birds eye view of the Queen of Ameri-
can Lakes.
After lunch we strolled the demo
area up at Fort Henry and then took no-
tice of the darkening clouds coming in
from the west.
The heat this day was oppressive and
a strong storm front was making its
way through New York and bringing
with it, hopefully, a cooler and more
comfortable atmosphere.
The storms that came through were on the violent side and we felt badly
for anyone caught out on the road, or water (you know who you are) while
these squalls rolled through.
As promised the rain brought a bit of relief from the heat and humidity
and, once again, Americade had superb weather return.
When the storms had lightened we headed down to the indoor Forum for
another walkabout and then met some friends to head up to Warrensburg.
This was not to partake in the “not really Americade stuff,” though Nick
Pleznick does have seriously great products, but to stop by Warrensburg’s
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 29
real treat – the famous Oscar’s Smoke-
house.
This meat store has been a staple in these
parts for decades and with our planned Fri-
day night barbeque get-together forming
up nicely Oscar’s was a must.
Thursday evening we had tickets to see
two comedians - Jodi Weiner and “Last Co-
median Standing” winner Alonzo Bodden.
We got into town early and stopped at
Giuseppe’s for some pizza and to watch the
crowds and bikes go by. The fellow at the
table next to us looked so familiar and it
took us a minute or two to remember Jerry
who had ridden with us in Mexico a few
years back. You never know just who you
will run into at Americade.
The two comedians were a hoot, with Alonzo doing a wonderful job of
making fun of all the different motorcycle brands equally.
Thursday night found Canada Street packed and we eventually found a
spot and had the required ice cream before walking up and down the strip.
People watching here is almost as fun as bike watching.
With perfect riding weather promised for Friday we had a plan for some
miles on some interesting Adirondack roads.
Up and out early we visited with Fred
Rau and his coffee club at 7am and then
grabbed breakfast with Fred and Cher-
rie before meeting up with friends for a
loop into the Adirondack Park and
down through Lake Sacandaga.
This morning was a full 30 degrees
cooler then the previous day with mid-
morning temperatures in the 60s. With
the best day of the entire week on tap
all the venues were crowded, as were
many of the roads. A light cloud cover
kept the day on a pleasant side and we
did a nice 200 mile loop first north, then
south and then north again through the
tiny burgs that call the largest park in
New York home.
With our annual Americade barbeque time quickly coming up that night I
did one more lap of the Tour Expo and picked up a new shield from Nolan
for my helmet and some new OSI lightweight covers for the bikes. If you re-
ally need it you will probably find it at the Expo.
That night we had about two dozen friends, riders and industry types come
over for food and fun.
The folks from Olympia had brought a Yamaha along for the ride – Yamaha
guitar, not bike. Excellent.
Meanwhile many Americaders headed to the closing
ceremonies and fireworks at the Great Escape Park, just
south of Lake George.
If the beginning of the week was blistering hot, it fin-
ished a bit on the cool and wet side.
A soggy rain front sailed in from the west and Satur-
day was not the greatest day but Americaders made the
best of it, filling up the Expo and Forum in search of
last day deals.
Many Americaders braved the fog and clouds up at
Prospect Mountain for the final barbeque, but we had
other plans.
We did our last lap of it all, and then took a ride south
to the Outlet store so Shira could buy a pair of Vibram
shoes (silly five toed shoes, if you ask me) and we
picked up a pair each for our favorite little girls Mia and
Tessa who would look so cool with them.
With the rain continuing on and off this day indoors
seemed better than out and Sunday promised to be a bet-
ter day, especially for those heading home.
That Sunday, as usual, we did a quick pass by the now
very empty streets of Lake George. Compared to the
huge crowds of the previous week the place had an al-
most ghost town look to it early on Sunday.
We started heading south riding the big road to New
Paltz and then a quick 70 backroads miles to home.
As much as we like Americade it is always good to
pull into your own driveway and home.
Another Americade done and in the books…only 51
weeks to go till the next one.
Page 30 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
Some years ago – 24 to be exact – a bunch of north Jersey riders got to-
gether and decided to do a run into Little Italy for some food and maybe raise
a bit of money for some local families.
Nearly a quarter century later Gooch’s Garlic Run is the biggest ride in the
region, bringing together riders of all makes and models for a great night of
bikes, food, camaraderie and good cause.
But, last year things changed.
Gooch’s has been known for the occasional smattering of moisture. Last
year some big storms canceled the ride until the rain date, but the permits
that were good for one day were not for the other and Gooch’s Garlic Run
for 2010 stayed at the Rockaway Mall – the traditional starting site.
For years the Blue Knights IX had a running battle with the folks in Little
Italy. Restaurateurs loved the idea of an incredibly busy Wednesday night,
but the Yuppie apartment dwellers detested the raucous evening.
With the hassles of a run to Little Italy growing, a Plan B was needed. In
stepped Newark Deputy Police Chief Anthony Campos, who suggested
bringing Gooch’s Garlic Run to the Ironbound section of Newark, New Jer-
sey.
If you have never been to the Ironbound then you have missed some seri-
ous Spanish and Portuguese delight.
Besides not having to ride into Manhattan through the choking Holland
Tunnel is a blessing all itself.
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 31
MONTGOMERYVILLE CYCLE CENTER2901 Bethlehem Pike, Hatfield, PA
215-712-7433 • www.montgomeryvillecc.comAsk ab
out our
Special Pricin
g for
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aders
Gooch’s Garlic Run 2011It’s now a Jersey thing
words: Brian Rathjen
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221 Governor St, East Hartford, CT
866-318-8862 • gengrasbmw.com
Max BMW Motorcycles
465 Federal Rd, Brookfield, CT
203-740-1270
maxbmwmotorcycles.com
MarylandBattley Cycles
7830 Airpark Rd, Gaithersburg, MD
301-948-4581 • battley.com
Bob’s BMW
10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD
800-269-2627 • bobsbmw.com
MassachusettsBMW of Cambridge
1098 Massachusetts Ave, Arlington, MA
781-648-1300
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Wagner BMW Motorcycles of Worcester
700 Plantation St, Worcester, MA
508-854-1377 • wagnermotorsport.com
New HampshireMax BMW Motorcycles
209 Lafayette Rd, North Hampton, NH
603-964-2877
maxbmwmotorcycles.com
Second Wind BMW
25 Craftsman Ln, Merrimack, NH
603-598-2697 • secondwindbmw.com
New JerseyBergen County BMW Motorcycles
124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ
201-843-6930
bergenbmwmotorcycles.com
Cross Country BMW
875 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ
732-635-0094 • ccbmw.com
New YorkBMW of Manhattan
555 W 57th St, New York, NY
212-373-7863 • bmwcyclesnyc.com
Country Rode Motowerks
286 Macedon Center Rd, Fairport, NY
585-421-0480 • countryrode.com
Gold Coast Motorsports
2070 Jericho Tpke, New Hyde Park, NY
516-352-7474
goldcoast-motorsports.com
Max BMW Motorcycles
845 Hoosick Rd, Brunswick, NY
518-279-3040
maxbmwmotorcycles.com
PennsylvaniaEuropean Motorcycles of Pittsburgh
10269 Perry Hwy, Wexford, PA
724-934-4269 • bmwpgh.com
Hermy’s BMW
Route 61, Port Clinton, PA
610-562-7303 • hermys.com
Kissell MotorSports, Inc.
101 Hawbaker Ind. Dr, State College, PA
814-861-7890
kissellmotorsports.com
Montgomeryville Cycle Center
2901 Bethlehem Pike, Hatfield, PA
215-712-7433
montgomeryvillecc.com
Two Jacks Cycle & Powersports
1019 N Washington St, Wilkes Barre, PA
570-824-2453 • twojacks.com
Velocity Cycles
6653 Carlisle Pike, Mechanicsburg, PA
717-766-2523 • velocitycycle.net
VermontFrank’s Motorcycle Sales & Service
120 Center Rd/Route 15, Essex, VT
802-878-3930
franksmotorcyclesales.com
VirginiaMorton’s BMW Motorcycles
5099A Jefferson Davis Hwy
Fredericksburg, VA
540-891-9844 • mortonsbmw.com
BMW Riders Gear is available at these BMW Motorcycle dealers in our area
Go to www.bmwmotorcycles.com for more on BMW Riders Gear and our dealer network
BMW GEAR. WITHOUT IT,YOU MIGHT AS WELL BE NAKED.
So now Gooch’s is an all-Jersey thing – and we
like it that way!
This year the weather was as good as it gets
and as Campos said he thought, “We re-
ceived the okay from a Higher Authority”
that the move to Newark was so blessed
weather-wise. We agree.
With almost 1,000 riders staging at
the Rockaway TownSquare Mall, the
afternoon was exceptional. Vendors
of food and motorcycle stuff on
hand with their offerings as was the
band Swampers to entertain.
The ride went fairly smoothly,
except for me having to dodge yet
another rider who had a gravity storm
right in front of me – this happens a lot to me on these sorts of rides - and
about 45 minutes later, after an easy ride along I-80 and 280 both of which
were lined with pedestrians cheering the ride on, we pulled into the Iron-
bound.
The Iberia Restaurant had set up a giant picnic in their large castle-framed
lot and the band Street Hassle and the Brass Balls, complete with full horn
section and back-up singers Word Mamas were beyond awesome. Any band
that can play ‘Vehicle’ and ‘Make Me Smile’ will do just that. This band, like
so many others involved, donated all their time and ef-
forts to make this the best Gooch’s we can remember.
When Ariana requested Lady Gaga and the band and
the other children all sang and played along, you could-
n’t help but have a smile on your face. It’s something
they will remember for a long time, as will we.
We avoided a bit of the crowd and ducked into
Iberia’s restaurant across the street for seafood and
steaks. You will never go hungry in the Ironbound.
Part of the almost $40,000 proceeds from this year’s
Garlic Run went to Ariana McGuire, an 8-year-old girl,
who survived a stroke and bleeding that resembled an aneurysm after a metal-
tipped arrow pierced her brain last summer, Steven Yang, 16, who suffered
a brain injury in a car accident, Juliana Moreno, a 2-year-old with leukemia
and Daniel Zawaski, 9, who has a brain tumor.
Next year will be the 25th anniversary of this run. Put it on your calendar
- Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - and you’ll find out why Jersey rocks!
To check on other Blue Knight NJ IX runs visit their website:
www.bknjix.org/RideSchedule.html
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 35
Bill Amadio
What did I want for my 60th birthday? That was
easy. A road trip. A BIG road trip.
Since a bout with Graves’ disease effectively
ended my wife Camille’s riding career, I’ve done my
riding separate from our vacations together. This
time, I wanted them both, so we set about finding an
exotic location with great riding in the morning and
great husband-and-wife tourism in the afternoon.
We chose Bagni di Lucca (bahn-yi d loo-ka), a once-
grand spa town in a lesser-known area of Tuscany
called the Garfagnana (gar-phan-ya-na).
Bagni di Lucca sits in a steep gorge cut by
a white-water river called Torrente Lima.
Town life centers around the three bridges that
cross the Lima. SS12, the main drag through
the town, is a state road (Strada Statale) that
runs from the lovely small city of Lucca,
home of opera composer Giacomo Puccini, to
the lovely small city of Modena, home of
opera greats Luciano Pavarotti and Mirella
Freni. Must be something in the water!
Page 36 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
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210 Route 10 West
East Hanover, NJ
www.HanoverPowersport.com
973-428-1735
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The town is beautiful and active.
During the evening walk (called passeg-
giata), the parks and fountains attract
townsfolk of all ages, from running kids
and cruising teens to gray-haired cou-
ples and friends who probably ran and
cruised the same spots way back when.
A network of staircases and switchback
paths lead up from the river to terraced
farms and postcard views of the gorge
and the town.
We stayed at the Park Hotel Regina
(www.coronaregina.it/index.php), a
17th century palazzo converted into a
wonderful hotel with a great restau-
rant and pool and the most friendly
and helpful owner and staff. Cost:
€100 ($140)/night for a room with a
terrace overlooking the river, break-
fast included.
Renting a bike in Italy was remark-
ably simple. I worked with a great
guy named Francesco at Central Italy
Motorcycle Tours
(www.cimt.it) who pro-
vided a fully-equipped
BMW F650 GS at a
reasonable price. The
bike was perfect for the
Garfagnana, and ran
great the whole trip.
For 10 sun-drenched
mornings, I was on the
road by 7 and back by
11. That may not sound
like much time, but it worked because I had no travel time to the mountains,
and I saved the sightseeing for later in the day with Camille. My only stops
were for espresso and some tire kicking at motorcycle-friendly coffee shops
(bars in Italian) that were everywhere in this region.
Camille’s mornings involved sketching, walking, taking pictures, practic-
ing her Italian with the locals and bringing back treasures from Bagni’s great
wine and food shops. By noon, we were on our way to a tourist city like
Florence (Firenze) or Pisa, or off the beaten path to a medieval hill town or
a relaxing thermal spa. At night, we slept very well.
SS12 through the Lima gorge hugs the mountainside and winds around
every jutting rock face and up and down every contour in the land. Heaven!
One right hand sweeper on this road went on for so long I started giggling
105 Rusty’s Blvd, Honesdale, PA 18431GPS: North 41.54590 • West 075.21750570-253-4507 • www.RustyPalmer.net
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Join us for a meal atThe Riverview Restaurant
at Rusty’s
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 37
inside my helmet. Just like a kid at Christ-
mas! With so many curves coming so
fast, I found myself riding with my index
finger covering the front brake lever. All
those pictures of racers doing the same
thing suddenly made sense.
Side roads off SS12 go in one direction:
up. They travel into desolate, but stun-
ningly beautiful, country. As is typical for
Italy, they never really veer far from civi-
lization. Along these
roads, I passed rustic
restaurants busily pre -
paring for Sunday lunch
and even small towns
whose only level ground
was on platforms built
out over the cliffside.
One of these towns was
at the top of a set of switchbacks so steep I
doubted I could ride it. When an oncoming
bus rounded the corner I was fearing, I de-
cided I could make it after all, especially
since the driver took the curve without so
much as a pause in his conversation with a
passenger.
People have lived along Garfagnana’s
waterways since before the Romans, so I
found a variety of crossings. The oddly-
lopsided Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s
Bridge), built in the 11th century, really
captured my imagination. One legend sur-
rounding the bridge tells of the builder call-
ing upon the devil to finish the especially
difficult construction in exchange for the
first soul to cross the bridge. In a time before SPCAs, the builder got away
with sending a dog (or pig) on the initial crossing. The enraged devil tried to
destroy the bridge, succeeded only in distorting its shape, and finally threw
himself into the river below. I spent a nice break at the bridge sipping cap-
puccino and talking to a German couple touring on a 1200GS.
North of Bagni, the roads break out of the gorge and head up to ski country
and the Abetone Pass. Pass roads are the quickest ways out of the mountains,
so they are heavily used. These mountains are full of stone and wood that
must be cut and delivered, and that means trucks: 18 wheelers with 3 rear
axles for stone and tandem trailers for logs. The locals
passed these trucks routinely, but I was content with
their pace much of the time. If a truck was really lug-
ging along, I passed or stopped for an espresso.
On a morning ride through Castelnuovo di Garfag-
nana, heading up a steep switchback on SS445, I ended
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Page 38 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
up stopped behind an 18-wheeler confronting a descending 18-wheeler at a
spot that could not accommodate them both. The drivers got out and talked.
They examined the space. They pulled in their mirrors, but no luck. In the
meantime, a tail (coda in Italian) of vehicles grew behind both trucks. I aban-
doned my bike and made for the safety of the roadside to supervise the situ-
ation with my fellow commuters. The drivers decided, and we concurred, the
descending truck and cars would back up the hill to a wider spot about 50
meters behind. The choreography went flawlessly, and what looked like an
impossible delay turned out to be a fun lesson in vehicle maneuvering and
cooperation.
Remember SLOW-LOOK-LEAN-ROLL from your Motorcycle Safety
Foundation course? I never used it more than on the switchback curves of
these pass roads. My last encounter with
roads like these was 3 years ago in West
Virginia. Daily riding in Mercer County, NJ
made me casual about these steps, espe-
cially since I usually pursue a leisurely
pace. Here, if you make a mistake like
rolling on the throttle before you’re head-
ing where you want to go, you are in for
some excitement. My initial weakness was
ignoring SLOW. A few adrenaline rushes
and hard leans on downhill, left-hand turns
quickly cured me of that. The switchbacks
also did wonders for throttle control,
counter-balancing and keeping my eyes up.
They really were a great training course.
North of Abetone, SS12 veers off toward
Modena. SS324 stays in the Garfagnana, and leads to the Radici Pass, a fa-
vorite weekend motorcycle destination, and the beautifully situated San Pel-
legrino in Alpe, named, according to legend, for an Irish (or Scottish) pilgrim
(pellegrino in Italian) who ended his days in the wilderness here in the year
640. Today, San Pellegrino is a meeting place for all types of outdoor en-
thusiasts. Hikers (Italians call them trekkers), bicyclists, horseback riders
and, of course, motorcyclists can always be found taking some sun in the pi-
azza or snapping photos from the ridge leading up to the town.
So, after so many great roads and sights, which one stands out as most
memorable? It turns out the people are most memorable. Roberto, our hotel
owner, always took time to thank us whenever we chose to eat in his restau-
rant. When our rental car was damaged, by a kid from town, while parked in
his lot, Roberto took care of all the reports and treated us to dinner and wine.
I especially remember the owner of a roadside taverna in the middle of
nowhere around Abetone. He had a faded picture of the Twin Towers over
his cash register. When I asked, he launched into a monolog about the tears
he and his neighbors shed for America on that day.
In the end, we agree our fondest memory is the Mitico family, whom we
met through an organization (www.homefood.it) that arranges for tourists to
visit Italian families and taste foods cooked by the women of the house (le
cesarine). Antonietta, our hostess,
worked with her mother to prepare a
meal of what she called “uncontam-
inated tastes.” The pasta, wine, olive
oil, bread, and after-dinner walnut
liquor were all home-made. The
meat and vegetables were bought lo-
cally, so even though it all looked
like what they serve at the local
pizzeria, the tastes were not of this
earth. We ate outdoors (al fresco) in
a shady arbor, with 3 generations of
the family around the table with
Camille and me.
In addition to day jobs, the family
runs the Mitico Ranch (www.mitico-
ranch.it). Piero, the father, says, “he has loved and lived with the horses for
over 40 years.” Piero is truly a “horse whisperer.” His arrival at the stable
announced playtime for the horses, the dog Lupa, and assorted bunnies and
chickens. The ranch organizes horseback trekking to the same locations I vis-
ited by bike.
Although our chances of seeing these people again are small, we feel this
trip brought us to friends in the Garfagnana.
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 39
Great Place forGroups or Rallies
bAckroAds fourth ANNuAl hot dog ruNsaturday August 27th • 11Am • the sprinkle shack on route 15 in sparta, NJ
Time once again for our annual Hot Dog Run!
Yes, sometimes it’s private, but this time we’d love to have you join us. How many delicious Dogs can you devour? Is this a
competition? Well, not exactly, but we will have a prize for the most downed dogs. The run starts from The Sprinkle Shack
on Route 15 in Sparta, New Jersey and will combine some seriously great roads and some equally serious hot dogs. Only the
best for you guys and gals. Portable EKG machines and Defibrillators will be on stand by. Questions? Give us a call at 973-
948-4176 or check updates on Facebook.
bAckroAds sPriNg brEAk Xivwhen: may 17-20, 2012 • where: the historic mimslyn inn – luray, vA
Join Brian & Shira and start the 2012 riding season off right with a few days
exploring the beautiful Shenandoah Valley, Blue Ridge Parkway and stun-
ning surrounding Virginia countryside.
Our host hotel is the Mimslyn Inn, which just celebrated its 80th anniversary.
It was taken over in 2005 by the Asam family, the same owners as the Bavar-
ian Inn in Shepherdstown, WV and another stop on the Backroads’ Rally cir-
cuit. It underwent a multi-million dollar renovation in 2008, which included
adding the Speakeasy, a casual restaurant in the Prohibition-era style with
live entertainment Tuesday – Friday. The Mimslyn also offers a fitness center
and Seasons Spa to take care of your aching body after your workout. It’s
the perfect base to explore places like the deep Luray Caverns, the largest in
the eastern United States or the Luray Zoo, a local favorite.
Your choice of rooms are the historic featuring a queen bed for $99/night
(total for three nights: $326.70) or a larger suite for $199/night (total for
three nights: $656.70). We may have an outdoor BBQ one night which would
be an additional $35/pp, but we’ll let you know later on that. As we always
say, rooms are limited but this time we REALLY MEAN IT – there are only 45 historic rooms and a
handful of suites so BOOK TODAY. Once they are gone, there are other hotels nearby for overflow.
In order to reserve into the Backroads Group, you must call them at 540-743-5105 and ask for that special
booking. So, you’ve finished reading this, what are you waiting for? Pick up the phone and make the
call. 2012 is right around the corner.
Page 40 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
RIDE LIKE A PRO NJJerry ‘Motorman’ Palladino’s Training Classes
Being Held in New Jersey‘NEVER FEAR making a U-turn or dropping your 800lb. motorcycle again’
• Male-Female-Big-Small: It doesn’t matter
• You can learn the 3 simple techniques that motor cops have been using for years
• Our instructors - all active or retired motor officers - will show you how to use themotor cop riding techniques to better control and handle your motorcycle
Check our website for available dates
www.RideLikeAProNJ.comPre-registration is recommended as classes fill quickly.
Gift certificates available • Course Fee is $150.00
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 41
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THE MORE YOUKNOW THEBETTER IT GETS
Page 42 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
Years ago when Europeans started to populate the mountains north of New Amsterdam, which would even-
tually be called the Catskills, they believed one series of peaks belonged to the devil. They felt that this
range’s craggy cliffs were specially built by the devil so that he alone could climb them and occasionally
retreat from the world of men. Today, they are famous for the deep gaps between them, which get
lower in elevation as the mountains between them get higher when proceeding along the backroads
of this part of New York.
So with this in mind it seemed apropos that we take Ducati’s new power-cruiser the Diavel, or devil in an Italian
dialect, to enjoy a late April weekend runnin’ with these Catskill imps. We picked our way up through the north
part of New Jersey from home base at Backroads Central.
Runnin’ with the Diavel
There are a number of ways up
north from here. Some lope up
Route 209 from Port Jervis, but that
is a yawn and makes us drowsy.
Route 42 is nice, but we like to pick
up Mountain Road, at the point
where New Jersey’s Mother Road
CR 519 runs into the Empire state
and wiggle our way like this own
evil serpent towards the Shawan-
gunk ridge and then west.
This route cuts through Otisville,
the home of the big Federal Correc-
tional Institution. Here they house
KSM - Khalid Shaikh Mohammed -
a devil if there was one. The Ducati,
with its throaty 162 horses felt drawn
there. We obliged.
By early afternoon we had crossed
the Shawangunk, riding around the
long way past the famed Mohonk House and then along the Ashokan Reser-
voir into Catskill State Park.
Along Route 208 we rode deep in the belly of the Devil’s Path and then
up Route 214 making a quick pass by the Devil’s Tombstone.
Devil’s Tombstone is located in a rugged mountain pass in the Catskill
Mountains called Stony Clove. The word ‘clove’ comes from the old Dutch
work “Kloove”, which
means ‘gash or cut in the
body of mother earth’. It is
rumored that Stony Clove
was a favorite haunt of the
Devil during the early days
in settlement of the
Catskills, before he had his
Ducati. One object closely
associated with the Devil
still survives here; the
Devil’s Tombstone itself. The tombstone is a
large boulder, approximately seven feet by
five, which was probably carried down the
mountain many centuries ago by a landslide or
glacier.
Seemed like there was a lot of devil-may-care stuff to find in these moun-
tains. The oldest in the world – much like Satan himself.
We overnighted up in Hunter, New York and had a few friends join us.
The next morning we went for a little loop around the mountains and along
the way found a small, but charming church. Not ones ever to pass up the
(Continued on Page 47)
Member of
Take a ride on one of the Northeast’s
Scenic Byways - Route 97 - 20 miles north
of Port Jervis. Dine with your fellow
riders on the Delaware River.
Enjoy our Expanded Canopied Decks.
Great Daily Food and Drink Specials.
OPEN 7 DAYS
A WEEK FOR
LUNCH AND DINNER
Noon to 10PM • Bar open later
Live Music andEntertainmentevery weekend
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 43
THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT FROM WEISETwo new gloves from WEISE, the track-specification Vortex and the short
cuff Daytona, both featuring full grain leather construction and the Knox
Scaphoid Protection System.
With a kangaroo leather palm, twin layered with Kevlar inserts at key impact
points and integrated TPU reinforcement at the knuckles and fingers, the
Vortex road/race glove provides a feeling of all-round security. Stretch pan-
els at the base of thumb, top of the hand and fingers offer flexibility, feel and
feedback.
Its ingenious adjustable Velcro retained wrist strap has a two-way cuff system
that allows quick and easy fastening inside or outside jacket sleeves, ensuring
a snug and secure fit. Retailing for $139.99 the Vortex comes in sizes XS -
4XL black, and XS – 3XL in red, blue and white.
Joining the Vortex is the Daytona, a short-cut sports glove, tailored for rid-
ers who like the comfort and convenience of a short summer glove, but
still want the high specification of a racing glove. Featuring full grain
leather construction – twin-layered at key points – Knox SPS and integrated TPU reinforcement on the knuckles, there
are stretch panels and a Kangaroo palm to aid fit, flexibility and feel. An adjustable Velcro retained strap on the neoprene cuff offers quick and easy entry and
exit. Priced at $109.99 the Daytona is produced in sizes S - 3XL in red, blue, orange, yellow and white colourways, and in XS - 4XL in classic black.
All WEISE products are covered by a two-year warranty for complete peace of mind. For information
on the 2011 WEISE range and a list of American stockists, call Fowlers Distribution on 203-597-8686
or visit www.fowlersdistribution.com.
MACHINEARTMOTO INTRODUCE BMWX-HEAD DOHC CYLINDER GUARDS
MachineartMoto, designers of specialized products for BMW motorcycles, introduce X-Head DOHC
cylinder guards for 2010 and 2011 BMW R1200 twin cam models. X-Head DOHC are designed to
cover 80% of the face of the cylinder head to protect, not only the bottom initial impact area in a drop,
but also the upper part of the cylinder head. Even in a driveway drop, the inertia of a fall will cause a
bike to roll briefly onto the face of the cylinder before it settles down on its bottom edge. X-Heads cover
more area than OEM and other aftermarket head guards.
The X-Head DOHC design benefits from considerable materials research and the selection of a DuPont
“SuperTough” nylon selected for its blend of high impact strength, temperature and UV stabilization.
AutocomWe’re Back - Actually, we never left…The Best Motorcycle Communication System on the Market
ANY BIKE ANY SPEED GUARANTEEDTo experience why Autocom is the clear choicefor communications see one of our dealers or call
866-951-5550Country Rode MotowerksFairport, NY • 585-421-0480
Rocket MotoHollis, NH • 877-533-4245
Max BMW MotorcyclesNorth Hampton, NH • 603-964-2877
Adventure BMWChesapeake, VA • 757-523-7055
Blue Ridge PowersportsHarrisonburg, VA • 540-434-7345
Mortons BMW MotorcyclesFredericksburg, VA • 540-891-9844
Blue Moon CycleNorcross, GA • 770-477-6945
www.autocomdirect.com
NEW IMPORTER, NEW PRODUCTS, NEW DEALERS
Enjoy crystal clear audio from ALLof your favorite devices. Integration formusic, GPS, radar detector, phone,bike-to-bike including CB and more.
Page 44 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
P R O D U C T S P O T L I G H T S
The injection molded shell is designed to give slightly in impact to prevent breakage. Between it and the cylinder
head is a 7mm thick thermoplastic rubber liner that aids in dissipating impact force while preventing hard contact
with the cylinder. Each side mounts via 3 stainless steel fasteners treated with Nyloc thread locking compound
to assure a tight installation. “These cylinder guards are designed to look as well as they protect”, says Andrew
Serbinski, President of Machineart. “Appearance and function are equally considered in our development work.
X-Head DOHC look better integrated with integrated with the shape of the cylinders than anything else available.”
Price: $189.00
Machineart Industrial Design www.machineart.com designs products sold by MachineartMoto through its online
store www.machineartmoto.com, through BMW and independent dealers, and distributors outside of the USA.
SPECIAL K-PACK FROM KNOXK-Pack from Knox is the British company’s third generation back pack that, like its
predecessors, sets new standards for motorcycle backpacks, with comfort, inno-
vative design and practical features, including helmet carrier and integral water-
proof cover.
Comfort and aerodynamics are key to carrying luggage on your back on a
bike, so the K-Pack is engineered to hold the weight low over the hips, re-
ducing stress on the lower back. It sits neatly on the wearer’s back, offering
as little wind resistance as possible.
Knox have also added breathable ‘spacer’ fabric on inside of each strap,
to help improve airflow and prevent the build up of moisture.
Providing 25 litres of space, the K-Pack has a main compartment that is
accessed easily via a 180-degree zip and features a document sleeve,
mobile phone pouch and key fob.
Packed with neat ideas, the K-Pack has a mesh bottle carrier on
the outside, and removable storage pouch, which converts to
a hip bag. Zip tabs can be stuck down with Velcro when
closed, to prevent them flapping in the breeze.
When a helmet needs to be carried, place in the protective hel-
met bag provided, close using the securing chord and clip onto
the front of the K-Pack. When not required, un-clip the helmet bag and re-
place with the handy extra storage pouch; this can be used for additional
items or to carry the helmet bag ready for the next use. A visor pouch is
also included with the K-Pack, which secures inside the main compart-
ment, keeping spare visors well protected.
A fully waterproof, high visibility cover is incor-
porated in the base of the K-Pack, which secures
by press studs to the inside of the back, protect-
ing the bag and contents from the elements.
A ‘flap free’ fastening system is also incorpo-
rated in to the K-Pack’s design. This helps elim-
inate flapping and whipping of excess webbing,
yet allows a full range of strap adjustment for a snug and
secure fit.
The new K-Pack is available in black. For more informa-
tion visit www.planet-knox.com.
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 45
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P R O D U C T S P O T L I G H T S
These days there are many offerings in the
communication field, but we constantly are
queried as to what communication system folks
should use and what we use ourselves.
With that in mind here is what we at Back-
roads have been using lately.
These days it seems everybody has Bluetooth
built into a helmet and as good as that has got-
ten, we just feel that it hasn’t hit it out of the park
as of yet.
That might change, but if you can live with a
few wires then the very best we have found is
still the tried and true Autocom System.
We have been using these for about a decade
now and have recently upgraded to their new and
improved Autocom Super Pro Automatic.
This is not an inexpensive investment- but
if you have the cash and the desire this is
certainly an option.
Both our BMW machines have
limited space to stash these systems
so we opted to use RKA’s In-Charge Communi-
cation Tank Bags.
These bags have power directly to them and make sys-
tems like this very easy indeed.
We have also brought in some other manufacturer’s products
to get what we felt we need for our communication and the amount
of miles we ride, which is substantial.
Let’s start with the basic – the Autocom Super Pro Automatic. This
unit can handle a number of toys including cell phones, GPS, iPod
and communication between rider and passenger and, very im-
portant to us, bike-to–bike. Although you can communicate using
VOX (Voice Activation)
we chose to use the PTT
Button (Push To Talk) that
way Shira doesn’t hear
my snide and sometimes
cutting commentary.
The new Autocom headsets and microphones are state of the art –
but we went a step further and had custom ear plugs created for us
by Marilyn Naviz from Now Hear This. You know this lady….
she is at all the rallies, the NY Bike Show and Americade too. We
have tried them all – she is the best – end of story. $229 well spent.
Not only do these protect our hearing from wind and road noise,
but they give us crystal clear voice, GPS instruction and music. Yes,
we do get some looks as we lube them with spit and insert them – but
that is how to do it.
On the radio end we have been using the same pro-quality Ken-
wood FS radios for years. No reason to change what ain’t broken.
These can be hard-wired into the bikes so you never have to worry
about charging the radio’s batteries; and they have an easy 1.5 mile range,
even better in some terrain.
Page 46 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
21 Dunning Rd.Middletown, NY845-344-2453
MavrixMotorsports.comhonda.com ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDEUNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK.OBEY THE LAW AND READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. For rider training information or tolocate a rider training course near you, call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 800-446-9227.Gold Wing® is a trademark of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. ©2011 American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
The 2012 Honda Gold Wing®
With more creature comforts to enhance the ride,touring just took on a whole new meaning.
Stop in to Mavrix Motorsports for a Demo Rideand see what we mean.
179 North Highland Ave/Rte 9
Ossining, NY 10562
914-762-2722
www.hudsonvalleymotorcycles.com
Join us for BIKE NIGHTThursday, July 28 • 5-9pm
All In-Stock Kawasaki Vulcans On Sale Now
Getting Clear on Communication
These days we have
dropped the need to have
our cell phones feed
through our communica-
tions systems, although
this too is easily done.
Even our favorite iPods
have been shelved since
our Zumos easily handle
the rock & roll for us.
Now the one thing you
must consider is that you
are just one rider. To make sense of it all you need somebody with equal com-
munication toys.
So, if you are a couple or a group of like-minded friends you are all going
to make a significant cash outlay.
But, as they say you get what you pay for. Let’s all say cha-ching together!
Resources:
Autocom$495 for unit$99 per headsetPlus all the other little things like PTT, and other peripheralsautocomdirect.com
RKA LuggageIn-Charge Tank Bag $325www.rka-luggage.com
Now Here thishttp://www.plugup.com/$229
GarminZumo 665 with XM Radio (monthly subsription) $799www.garmin.com
ruNNiNg with thE diAvEl (Continued from Page 43)
Kodak moment we put the Ducati Diavel into the Church’s yard and captured
the moment.
Yes, some sacrament must have been broken, but as Flip Wilson would
say….! Okay, I won’t say it.
For a long, low bike with such a devilishly big rear tire – a 240 – the Diavel
handled like a charm through the haunts of the Catskills and then back around
the high peaks of the Shawangunk on Routes 44 & 55 where we stopped for
the view and to watch other riders enjoy this wonderful Sunday afternoon.
That evening we, and the rest of the nation, got one more bit of good news
as the real devil, Osama Bin Laden, was taken out by a Navy SEAL Team.
Thank God for small miracles – the devil had nothing to do with this.
Brian Rathjen
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 47
EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTINGEvery Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY.10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221
First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Be-vans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for aride or head out on your own
Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do somebenchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish
Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black RiverBarn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands wel-come. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918
Every Wednesday • Bike Night at the Airport Pub with Free BBQ and Juke Box. CR 639,Sussex, NY • 973-702-1215
Every Wednesday thru Oct. 26: 5-9pm • Bike Night at Rusty Palmer, 105 Rusty’s Blvd,Honesdale, NY • 570-253-4507 • www.RustyPalmer.net
First Wednesday • Bergen Harley-Davidson Hump-Day MusicFest. 6-9pm. BBQ and FreeLive Music. Bergen Harley-Davidson/BMW Motorcycle, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park,NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com
Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ.Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com
Every Friday • 6-8pm Bike Night at O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson, 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro,NY. Free Hot Dogs • www.otooleshd.com • 845-888-2426
Every Saturday • Stop by the dealership at 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs at10am. Return to the dealership for FREE food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn!No shorts or sneakers. What are you waiting for, Saddle-Up! • Bergen Harley-David-son/BMW Motorcycle, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 •www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com
JULY 201128-31 • United Sidecar Assoc. 33rd National Rally ‘Buckeye Rally’ in Dayton, OH. Head-quarters: Dayton Tall Timbers Resort KOA. Info: www.sidecar.com
28-31 • MountainFest, Morgantown, WV • www.mountainfest.com
31 • District II of NJ Corn Boil/Rally. Sigin: 9-11am Williams HD, 1100 US 22, Lebanaon,NJ. Endsite: Bridgewater Eagles, 350 Woodside Ln, Bridgewater, NJ. $15/pp.
AUGUST 20117 • Ride for Kids Hudson Valley • Sign in 8-9:45am; Ride leaves 10am. Central ValleyElementary School, 45 Rte. 32, Central Valley, NY. For details please visit www.ride-forkids.org • 800-253-6530
13 • Bergen County BMW Motorcycles Demo Days. Your chance to ride the bike you’vealways wanted. Insurance available on site. 10am-4pm • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park,NJ • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com • 201-843-6930
13 • Harley-Davidson Long Branch Open House featuring 2012 models, demo rides, freelunch, Patch Lady, live music by Gunsmoke, sidewalk sale and specials - 9a-4p. 671Broadway, Long Branch, NJ • 732-229-8518 • www.hdlongbranch.com
14 • O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson Battle of the Bands O’Toole’s-A-Palooza. For full detailsand entry information please visit website www.OtoolesHD.com • 4 Sullivan St,Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426. Raindate: Aug. 20
16 • Liberty Harley-Davidson Bike Night with Free Hot Dogs, music and beer available. •12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ • 732-381-2400 • www.libertyharley.com
8-12 • Concours Owners Group National Rally. Green Mountains at Mount Snow, VT.Rally fee includes buffet dinner. Discount for COG members. For more information pleasevisit www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591
27 • Bergen County Harley-Davidson Brain Injury Research Poker Run. Sign in 9:30-11amat BCHD. Great ride for a wonderful cause. 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ •www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com • 201-843-6930
27 • Pigs N Poker Run to benefit Shriners Hospital for Children. Sign in 10-11:30am atRiverton Hotel and Restaurant, 7758 Martins Creek/Belvidere Hwy, Bangor, PA. Ride:Noon to 2pm with picnic to follow. $25/pp ride/picnic; $10/just picnic; $10 Quoit Tour-nament @ 4pm • More info email: [email protected]
30 • Deptford Honda Yamaha Open House. 9a-4p. 1300 Clements Bridge Rd, Deptford,NJ • 856-848-8500 • www.dhy.com
SEPTEMBER 20113-5 • Finger Lakes BMW Rally• Watkins Glen State Park. Camping, food, fun. CountryRode Motowerks sponsors track ride at International Racetrack Sat., Sept.3 @ noon •www.countryrode.com • 866-323-6530
2-5 • Vermont Rolling Rally. For details visit www.rollingthruamerica.com
2-4 • Baltimore Grand Prix with Bob’s BMW as motorcycle sponsor. Get special motorcycleonly access and trackside parking. Visit www.bobsbmw.com
4 • Dawn Patrol MC Labor Day Run. Signin: 9-Noon Bradley Gardens Firehouse, 24 OldYork Rd, Bridgewater, NJ. $15/pp.
11 • Larz Anderson Museum European MC Day, Brookline, MA •www.larzanderson.org
22-25 • Concours Owners Group Northeast Fall Rally, Lake George, NY. Come join otherConcours riders and sport-touring enthusiasts for a romp in the Adirondacks. Rally feeincludes Saturday dinner. Discount for COG members. For complete details visit the north-east event calendar at www.cog-online.org or contact Scott at 518-223-0544
26-Oct. 2 • Backroads Fall Fiesta Rally. Join us for our week-long rally through MA, NH,VT and NY. See the ad on page 64 or www.backroadsusa.com for full details.
OCTOBER 201116 • Blue Knights IX NJ Make-A-Wish Run. For details visit their website:www.bknjix.org
MAY 201217-20 • Backroads Spring Break XIV. We’ll be in Luray, Virginia for three days of fun, rid-ing and hanging out. For more details see page 64. www.backroadsusa.com
Page 48 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 49
18hAnnual!
Sunday - September 11 - 201110 AM to 4 PM
Larz Anderson Park • Brookline, Massachusetts
Sponsored by the Larz Anderson Auto MuseumAll Proceeds to Benefit the Larz Anderson Auto Museum
Bring and Show your German, Italian, British MotorcyclesClassics to Moderns
BIKE SHOW • AWARDS • SWAP MEET • FOOD
Larz Anderson Auto Museum15 Newton StreetBrookline, MA 02445617-522-6547contact: Sheldon [email protected]
larzanderson.org
Tyler Yandow
Some of you may have seen the Catoma display at
last summer’s BMW RA rally in Pownal, VT. This tent
was designed specifically for the motorcycling commu-
nity although the company also makes tents for back-
packing, tactical operations, and firefighters. Catoma
also offers the “Lone Rider” which is a smaller tent in-
tended for a single traveler as well as larger, motorcycle
specific models.
I opted for the 2-man tent (MSRP $287) for a couple
of reasons. First, I like to have the option of donning
all my riding gear in the tent in the event it is raining
cats and dogs. Having the extra space also allows me
to pack up all my gear, except the tent, in waterproof
bags before loading them on the bike. If you have ever
tried breaking camp in the rain you can appreciate this
small luxury.
In early June I had the opportunity to try out my re-
cent purchase on a two night camping trip with the
BMW Motorcycle Owners of Vermont, staying in a dif-
ferent location each night.
As an architect I look for products that are well de-
signed. One of the innovative features of this tent is that
the poles stay attached to the tent when stored. This
makes set up and break down at most a five minute ex-
ercise. Each of the two sets of poles has two hinges
which allow the entire tent to fold up like an umbrella.
You don’t even have to fold it. Just collapse the poles and stuff the whole
thing in the bag which comes with it. When setting up, only the waterproof
fly and its support pole need to be fastened to the tent if bad weather is ex-
pected. If the weather is warm and no precipitation is expected, the fly is
not needed. Catoma also offers a model specific ground sheet which can be
clipped to the tent and stored without being removed. This is another time
saver. The sheet is made of a durable fabric
similar to the main body of the tent. The tent’s
floor extends up the sides about 8” providing a
seamless, waterproof barrier to the elements.
With the exception of the vents, the remainder
of the tent is also waterproof and carries a life-
time warrantee. Two sides of the tent’s interior
are lined with mesh pockets for organizing and
storing smaller items. In addition, the tent
comes with a mesh gear loft which clips to the
ceiling. I found there were more pockets than
I needed during my recent maiden voyage with
it. Being able to stay organized I found to be a
real asset which the tent made easy. Another
feature I found useful is the double door design.
The tent has a full sized screen door at each
end. In addition to the roof vent this provides extraordinary ventilation, pre-
venting condensation from building up inside during the night. Unlike many
tents, the doors do not have a solid panel of the same size and shape as the
screen. Each door has a vestibule which contains a zippered center section
to allow access and prevent rain from entering when closed. Because the
vestibules leave about two inches of space between them and the ground, air
Page 50 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
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Play it safe on the outsideKeep it sexy on the inside…
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PRODUCT REVIEW CATOMA OUTDOORS 2 UP 2 MOTORCYCLE TENT
The brand new Arai XC series “redefines how
open-face helmets are supposed to look—
and protect,” according to the company.
The most telling feature is the ex-
tended coverage of the lower jaw-
cheekpad area that offers more
facial coverage without sacrific-
ing the traditional open feel of
the helmets. With the XC, the
lower jaw now extends 1 3/16
inches forward compared to
previous—and traditional—
open-face three-quarter shape
helmets. The look itself is in-
triguing. Someone at Arai has
compared the look to that of “an
ancient Greek warrior’s helmets
with the jaw extensions. Defi-
nitely cool. But like everything we
do, primarily, our objective is to
build a better helmet for riders.”
Indeed, Arai says the XC is contin-
uing proof of its longstanding emphasis
on “rider protection above all,” and its tradition of improving on what works
instead of simply changing for the sake of change or “short-lived marketing
headlines.”
There are two models in the new XC series: standard XC and XC-RAM.
The RAM’s upper-vent system is borrowed directly from the top-of-the-line
race helmet, the Corsair-V. The advantage is improved airflow and helmet
stability. It also has a fully-removable Arai Dry-Cool® liner.
The standard XC model’s ventilation utilizes Arai’s TDF-3 and DDL-
4 intake and exhaust vents taken directly from the Arai’s “ultimate
street helmet,” the RX-Q. Side cowl exhausts complete the XC’s ad-
vanced ventilation package.
A vented neck roll on both models takes advantage of existing
airflow from around the rider’s neck to further enhance helmet ven-
tilation by extracting more heat build-up from the interior.
Like all Arai helmets, the XC series is handmade in Arai’s sto-
ried environment of skilled artisans rather than the alternative of
mass production. They are available in sizes are XS through 3XL
in four solid colors: Diamond White, Aluminum Silver, Black
Frost, and Diamond Black. Suggested retail price for the XC is
$499.95, and $559.95 for the XC-RAM.
Complete information and the location of your nearest Arai retailer
can be found at www.AraiAmericas.com.
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 51
is allowed to circulate even when they are completely closed. At first I wasn’t
sure this was a good idea for cool nights but I did not find it to be a problem.
In fact I appreciated the feeling of not sleeping in a “plastic bag.” I was pro-
tected from the weather but never had that stuffy feeling of my old tent. The
vestibules also allow you to keep your boots outside while at the same time
being protected from precipitation.
Unlike my older hexagonal shaped tent, the rectangular shape provides ex-
tremely efficient use of space. Although roughly the same size as my older
shelter, this tent feels bigger because there are no odd shaped corners. Even
with my Byer Tri-Lite folding cot, Thermarest, sleeping bag, and all my gear,
there was plenty of room to spare. The tent could easily accommodate two
people and most of their gear. For one person you feel like you have the hotel
to yourself. I even had room to set up my Kermit chair.
The only downside I could find is that when packed, the tent is still rela-
tively long, about 30”. Depending on the width of your panniers this may or
may not be an issue. The storage bag supplied with the tent is not waterproof
although I was told by a Catoma representative that it would keep the tent
relatively dry in all but the most extreme rain. We’ll see. The bag is a side
opening design with a roll flap closure similar to Ortlieb Dry Duffle Bags.
Because the bag is made of light weight material stuffing the tent into the
bag is not as easy as it could be. Nevertheless I didn’t feel this presented a
serious problem.
Although I’ve only used it once, I’m convinced I’ll probably never take
my old tent on another motorcycle trip. This product takes setting up and
breaking camp to a new level of convenience and really does feel like home.
Details: Sleeps 2; weight-12.5lbs; packed dimesions- 29.5” x 6” x 6”; cen-
ter height-56”; floor area- 77” x 84”. For more information please visit
www.catomaoutdoor.com.
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
ARAI ‘REDEFINES’ OPEN-FACE HELMET DESIGN AND FUNCTION WITH NEW 2011 XC SERIES
CIRCLECYCLE
570 Broad AvenueRidgefield NJ
web: www.circlecycle.net
201-945-2200
For over 25 yearsCircle Cycle has helped
riders get and stay on the road
Our variety of powersports products is second to none. Whether you’re rid-
ing offroad, backroads, or onthe track, we’re here to get you
where you need to go.
In northern New Jersey there isn’ta friendlier or more knowledgeable staffthan ours. We’re happy to help you find
the parts you’ve been looking for.
Online Shopping AvailableCheck our catalog pages - if you don’t see what you want,
give us a call or stop in - we’re always ready to help!
Circle Cycle.For the discriminating rider.
…your personal heaven on earth!
Located in Arden, only 15 minutes fromPhilippi, on the beautiful Tygart Riverin West Virginia, our bed & breakfast isthe perfect place to call home whileexploring the Mountain state.
Rates from $70 - $90 per night
866.909.4262www.AngelBandFarm.com
Box 696 • North River Road • Philippi, WV 26416
The Charlesworth Hotelis New Jersey’s REAL backroads’ hideaway
Romantic Dining
Comfortable Rooms
Home of the BEST sunset on the Jersey Shore
New Jersey Avenue • Fortescue, NJ • 856-447-4928
THE Place to gowhen you
REALLY want to Disappear
Paul Haas • Owner-Chef
123 Bantam Lake Rd.Route 209 • Bantam, CT(Next to Bantam Cinema)
860-567-YUMY (9869)www.WoodsPitBBQ.com
Open Lunch & DinnerTuesday - Sunday(Closed Mondays)
Member of
Hudson Valley’s
Number One Riding
Barbeque Restaurant
Located on Picturesque Route 9W
minutes from Perkins Drive
and Harriman State Park
just south of historic West Point
1076 Route 9W North
Fort Montgomery, NY
845-446-0912
www.barnstormerbbq.com
Featured in July 2009Great All American Diner Run
If you go home hungryit’s your own fault
320 Front Street, Belvidere, NJ • 908-475-2274 • www.thisilldous.com
Open Daily for Breakfast and Beyond • 7am to 4pm • Sunday 7am to 1pm
Try our Full Throttle Breakfast Special every Saturday + Sunday
Worth the ride from anywhere!
Join Us for 1st Friday Celebration
1st Friday of each month
from 6 to 9pm
Live Music • Dinner Specials
Sharing your passion for good food since 1983
Member of
Page 52 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
B A C K R O A D S ’ M O T O - I N N M E M B E R S EAT AND STAY WHERE YOU’RE WELCOME
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 53
M O T O R C Y C L E M A R K E T P L A C E ALL THAT GOOD STUFF
Come Ride the Dragon
Deals Gap318 Curves in 11 Miles
www.dealsgap.com800.889.5550
17548 Tapoco Road • Robbinsville, North Carolina 28771
Deals Gap Store • MotelBar and Grill
If you didn’t like cool stuff,
you wouldn’t be reading
this magazine.
Here’s something
you’re going to love.
TORQ-ITScrewdriver/Speed Wrench/ Palm Ratchet
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Closed Sun-Mon • Open: Tues-Thurs 9:30AM-7PM • Fri 9:30AM-6PM • Sat 9AM-3PM
Brands you Know and TrustFrom Long Island’s PremiereMotorcycle Outfitters…
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Page 54 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
B A C K R O A D S ’ M O T O - I N N M E M B E R S EAT AND STAY WHERE YOU’RE WELCOM
The Boat House
Restaurant
FEEL THE WARMTH
The Only Outdoor
Lakeside Dining on
Swartswood Lake
1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood, NJ
973-300-0016
www.theboathouserestaurantonline.com
Member
Serving Lunch,
Dinner and Sunday Brunch
Tuesday ~ Sunday 11am-9pm
Brunch 10am-2pm • Closed Mondays
Excellent Ride Destination
‘50s-Style Drive-In RestaurantFull and Varied Menu
Room for the Whole Gang
Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300
www.chatterboxdrivein.com
~~ BIKE NIGHT IS BACK EVERY THURSDAY NIGHT at ~~
THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-INGREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING
Ask about our Diners Club.Gift Cards available.
SERVING BREAKFAST & LUNCHTUESDAY-SUNDAY 7AM~3PM
Daily specialty items including burgers, homemade soup & pastries
Route 739 ~ just south of Milford Rd ~ Dingmans Ferry, PA
570.828.1920 • www.forkliftcafe.com
As seen in November 2010 Great All American Diner Run
130 County Route 519 • Belvidere, NJ • 908-475-4772
Red Wolfe InnPalatible Copius Victuals
(Good Eatin’ Food)
The secret of Western New Jerseyand a Culinary Delight
Open Tuesday - Friday @ 5pmSaturday and Sunday@ 4pm
Dine indoors or alfresco
Have a beautiful ridefollowed by a great meal
Tues. thru Sat. 11am-10pmSunday: Breakfast 9am-Noon
Lunch and Dinner served until 9pm
The RivertonTravel along the scenic
backroads of the Delaware river.Meet the Markopoulos family
and taste chef George’sGreek American cooking.Best bar menu, lunch or dinner.
Fresh poppers, perogies, calamari, clamsand crispy wings with 8 different sauces.
John, Christina, chef George and Eoanna welcome you and your friends.
The Riverton Hotel and RestaurantAt Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA
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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 55
M O T O R C Y C L E M A R K E T P L A C E ALL THAT GOOD STUFF
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Riding with the Tribe
Basic Group Riding on the Backroads 101
This is a subject that has been touched on by many people and in many
riding publications, but we thought we’d look at it, not from the large parade
or large groups on the highway point of view, but of those riding groups that
enjoy the less traveled county and farm roads; the slightly more aggressive
riding groups. Some of these you might agree with, maybe some you won’t.
But, they are all worth thinking about regardless of your style of riding.
* Most groups tend to ride together often and so know some of the basic
rules, the type of riding they’ll be doing, and the skill levels of their group.
But, if you have some new riders joining your posse then it would do you
well to explain the basic rules of the ride to the newcomers.
* Always arrive at the ride’s starting place with a full tank of gas.
* Keep group rides small. Any more than 7 or 8 and it can easily get out
of hand. If you have a larger group break them into smaller squads.
* Riding is not racing. Save that for the track.
* If the lead rider makes a turn he should wait till the rider behind him is
in sight and sees the turn. That rider, in turn, should wait for the rider behind
him or her and so on. You need to keep an easy eye on the rider behind you.
* If you have a designated leader you should have a designated “Sweep.”
This Sweep Rider will always be in the back and if you have them in your
mirror then you know your group is together.
* If you get separated in a town by a stoplight or traffic, in most cases,
simply continue ahead. If a turn is made the last rider should be waiting there.
If needed, and can be done safely, pull to the side of the road to gather the
group.
* Along the backroads it might be fun to enjoy a brisk pace, but once you
are entering a town or congested area slow down. It is not only prudent, but
the polite thing to do. We are all ambassadors of our sport.
* When in town or traffic consider yourself invisible. To some car drivers
you might as well be.
* If you have a novice or tentative rider it’s okay to let one rider lead them
along at a more sedate pace, separate from the main group. You never want
to get a rider in over their heads. It never ends well.
* This thought might fly in the face of conventional group riding mentality,
but we find this to be sensible and beneficial to those riding in a group – es-
pecially a spirited group. Throw away the staggered formation mantra!
Although it looks good in parade or on the big highways, on twisty and
hilly county roads there is only one line – THE RIGHT LINE!
* Keep your distance. Space cushioning is a must, especially when you do
not know what is around the turn or beyond that rise.
*If you spot debris on the road point it out with your foot. This allows the
riders behind you to know there is something on the road ahead.
* Communication is a great thing – most hand signals are universal, but
you would want to let new riders know what they are. Radio and Bluetooth
communication is a wonderful thing and being able to converse with fellow
riders adds to the fun and safety.
* Don’t just peel away from your group. If you can’t finish the entire ride
tell your fellow riders that you plan on heading off along the way.
* It’s okay to back off. If you are in a group and you don’t feel comfortable,
for whatever reason, signal to the side and let somebody in the group know
how you feel. It’s okay to get to the end of the pack; the rider ahead of you
will wait at the next turn for you. Offer to be the Sweep Rider. Everybody
wants everybody to have a good and safe time and finish the day.
* Know your limits. If you are a new rider don’t try to go out riding with
motorcyclists that have been doing this for years. Better to find somebody
to ride with as you put on more miles and get more experienced.
* Mentoring. If you know of a rider who is just starting out mentoring is a
great thing to do. It allows the beginner to learn from your experience and
you will probably make a friend for life.
Page 56 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride SkillfullyA column dedicated to your riding survival
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 57
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M O T O R C Y C L E M A R K E T P L A C E ALL THAT GOOD STUFF
Some time ago,
while watching Bobby
Flay’s Throwdown! se-
ries on the Food Net-
work, my interest was
piqued. Seems this par-
ticular challenge had to do
with ice cream, sundaes
specifically. Next to riding,
there’s almost nothing better in
this world. The Throwdown!
challenger was Julia Reynolds of
the Ice Cream Man in Greenwich,
NY. Greenwich, NY is a nice little
hop while up in Lake George, so
while at Americade this year I made
it a point to get to this gem in the ice
cream world.
The Ice Cream Man has
been around since the early
1980’s, originally owned by
Keith and Charlene Mann, thus
the name. The original 16x20 log
cabin was expanded in 1995 to include inside seating and a screened porch,
as well as expanding the ‘dipping’ area. In 2001, Julia took the reins and
has been making her delicious ice cream, both soft and hard, ever since.
So what can you expect when visiting the Ice Cream Man? First off,
you’ll arrive at a nice country building with a big gravel parking lot. There
are a couple of walk-up windows and some tables outside to enjoy your
creamy treat. The homemade flavors, of which there are over 300, change
regularly and you will find 30 of them listed on their daily flavor board.
Julia uses Danish Cream as the base for her delights and, for you folks who
bother yourselves with butterfat content and carbohydrates (why do you
even eat ice cream then?) the hard ice cream is 14% butterfat and 18
grams/half cup of carbs while the soft ice cream is 10% and 23 respectively.
Those seeking out the soft ice cream should only make the trip during the
summer, though.
As for the actual flavors, I’m certainly not listing all 300 but you’ll get
the idea of their creativity from these: Orange Pineapple, Chocolate Sam-
bucca, Coffee Brownie, Maple Walnut and Caramel Apple. Of course you
can always get the standards
of Vanilla, Chocolate and
Danish Cream – pure sweet
cream with no extracts. One
of their best sellers is Almond
Joy, another standard and I
can attest to it being ab-
solutely delicious.
If you find yourself arriv-
ing with an appetite for more
than just ice cream, the Ice
Cream Man will satisfy that
as well. They offer a variety
of sandwiches, also all freshly
made on home baked breads
using fresh vegetables and
meats, as well as home made
soups. You can indulge such
things as the Battenkill
Bovine Mooey Gooey which
is warm roast beef on toasted
pumpernickel with cheddar
cheese and Russian dressing
or, for those saving them-
selves for dessert, the
Farmer’s Delight made up of
lettuce, tomato, onion, cucum-
ber and bean sprouts with Ital-
ian dressing on rye bread. All
sandwiches are served with a
side of chips, macaroni, po-
tato or pasta salad.
If you happen to be cele-
brating a special event, such
as Tuesday, you might want to
do that with one of their spe-
cialty ice cream cakes. These
are three-inch, two-layers
high and ALL ICE CREAM –
no cake filler. You can make
Page 58 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
Shira’s
Summertime
Ice Cream
Ride
Stumpy’s YAMAHAYour Toy Store at the Shore
YAMA-HOTLINE • 732-776-55141207 Route 35 South • Neptune, NJ • www.stumpys.com
Specializing in Ducati, BMW,MV Agusta, Triumph and Aprilia
Service • Repairs • Suspensionupgrades and engine performance
Give us a call or stop on by41 Ballard Rd • Middletown, NY
www.europeancycleservices.com845-725-7707
thE icE crEAm mAN
417 stAtE routE 29, grEENwich, Ny 12834
518-692-8382 • www.thE-icE-crEAm-mAN.com
up your own or choose from
their traditional favorites
such as vanilla and chocolate
with rich fudge sauce and
chocolate crumble or per-
haps the Nutty Delight fea-
turing Creamy Cashew
(vanilla ice cream dotted
with roasted cashew halves)
and Peanut Butter in My
Chocolate with fudge sauce
and chocolate crumbles and
topped with a gourmet nut
blend. Get the Epi pen ready
folks!
You can enjoy the Ice
Cream Man during the sum-
mer months, May thru Sep-
tember, everyday from 11am
to 9:30pm and Fall hours
thru mid-October are Tues-
Sun. 11am to 8:30pm. Please
call 518-692-8382 to con-
firm, as their website was
not up-to-date.
Since this great creamy
culinary delight is in such
wonderful riding territory,
we’ll give you a velvety ride
on some delectable roads
starting from Lake George.
You might not want to wait
until next Americade to get
your fill of Ice Cream Man
lusciousness. Enjoy the ride
and have a scoop for me.
you can find a route from lake george to the ice cream man:
http://www.sendspace.com/file/qige2n
and a return route: http://www.sendspace.com/file/o7q1iv
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 59
7872 Main St. / Rte. 23A, Hunter, NY • 518-263-5025 • www.fairlawninn.com
The perfect home base when riding the CatskillsEnjoy the day’s ride and return to the comforts of the Fairlawn Inn
Walk to Restaurants • Delicious Homemade Breakfast
2010 #1Inn of Distinctionin NY by NYSH&TA
Festival Season is Here at Hunter Mountain** Thrill to the Longest Canopy Zipline Tour **
Michael Abraham
Nothing provides quite the jolt to the senses or ruins one’s mood like riding
smack-dab through the middle of a mountaintop removal coal mine. After
90 miles of glorious Southwest Virginia backroads, I suspected I had taken
a wrong turn at the previous intersection of two roads that were unmarked in
all directions, and now I knew I did. It was unseasonably hot and the shade
provided by deep woods only moments earlier was gone, replaced by the
dust, filth, and destruction of the open earth mine.
My riding mates, Michael Cecchini and John Swift and I pulled up along-
side a parked coal truck and asked the driver for directions, which he gra-
ciously offered. We retraced our path, re-entered the cooler forest, and
eventually found our way into Abbs Valley and the towns of Boissevain
(rhymes with “hose-main”) and Pocahontas. These were our intermediate
destinations on our way to historic Matewan, scrunched along the West Vir-
ginia/Kentucky border.
But I’m getting ahead of myself.
The plan was for these two friends and me to ride our classic Honda 6-
cylinder CBX motorcycles to the deepest heart of Appalachia. Mike and
Swifty live in the sauna that is the Washington, DC metropolitan area. They
would trailer to my house in Southwest Virginia and from there, we’d ride
our antique bikes to the Tug Fork of the Big Sandy River town of Matewan,
of the Hatfields and McCoys and one of the pivotal battles of the modern
labor movement. Thus, Three Sixes on the Tour de Tug.
Trying to skirt as many traffic-lights as possible, I led our multi-cylinder
expedition around Bluefield to our first stop at Pocahontas. This town, a for-
merly bustling coal community with residents imported from all over the
world in its heyday, is now a crumbling, dilapidated wreck. The roof of the
former company store collapsed a few years ago and much of the downtown
area is in an advanced state of decrepitude, as if the neutron bomb hit and
nobody was left to take care of anything. There was a modern, single-story
brick bank branch with a drive-through window across from the wreckage,
conveniently equipped with a shaded park bench from where loiterers could
watch plaster fall. Another building nearby displayed an ornate, multi-faceted
façade, but with a collapsed building behind it.
Page 60 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
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ROAD TRIPtWO-and-a-tHiRd SixeS On tHe tOuR de tug
Even those with an unnatural interest for the macabre soon tire of Poca-
hontas’ cheerless karma. So we motored east into West Virginia into
Bramwell.
But, you might ask, the title of this tale is Two-and-a-third sixes. What
happened? Well, inexplicably, Mike, who owns a stable of exotic, mostly
Italian motorcycles fit for a king, was unable to get either of his two CBXs
ready for the journey. So he rode my 1989 Honda Pacific Coast instead, spoil-
ing my theme. With its V-twin engine lurking deep within shrouds of white
plastic, we were now at 2-1/3 sixes. Whatever.
In Bramwell, we drove slowly on the brick streets, where at one time 40
custom-designed mansions housed coal mine owners. One house that re-
cently sold for $375,000 would have brought easily $2-million where Mike
and Swifty live.
Not five miles later on US-52, the two-lane arterial of the southern West
Virginia coalfields, we became stuck in an interminable traffic jam. We
ducked into a nearby blissfully cool convenience store in the coal camp of
Maybeury where an androgynous, overweight cashier said a truck had jack-
knifed on the road ahead, “Traffic has sat there for over an hour already. Take
this little road beside the store and generally take every right turn you come
to. In 15 miles, you’ll be on the other side of the wreck.”
Thus began our unplanned excursion into the Deliverance-like backwoods
of McDowell County. “Mak’-dal,” as the residents call it, is the last sip of
coffee in the cup that mimics the state of West Virginia. In spite of yielding
from its ruggedly steep mountains more coal than any county in the Eastern
USA, it is by far the poorest in the nation’s third poorest state.
It was an impossibly
tight road, with some
hairpin turns sharp enough to read our own license plates. My CBX is the
late model, made in only two model years, 1981 and 1982. It is a long, grace-
ful beast with a satisfying growl in the higher rev ranges. It is a surprisingly
agile cornering machine on all but the slowest turns. Mike on the porcine Pa-
cific Coast was often right on my heels. Mike said the PC was like a Disney
character dancing hippopotamus, bulbous but agile on its feet.
Swifty’s and my CBXs were different animals, more feline. Swifty’s early
model, sans saddlebags and fairing, was tiger-like, with a lean snarl from its
six mufflers and a bad attitude. It was like the original Honda CB-750 on
steroids, with an engine too wide to be contained by mere naked bike garb.
With my 1981 version, Honda had de-tuned the engine and fixed everything
wrong on the original: better brakes, heavier forks, and a stouter swing-arm
with a mono-shock. Then they fitted it with a functional color-coordinated
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 61
BRANCHVILLEMOTORS 63 Ethan Allen Hwy
Ridgefied, CT
203.544.7901www.Branchville.com
Tues-Fri: 9am-6pm • Sat: 9am-4pm
The Metropolitan Area’sEuropean Riding Center
Headquarters forMoto Guzzi
TriumphVespa
We stock new andpre-owned vehicles
Conveniently located acrossfrom the Branchvilletrain station on the
Danbury line of Metro North
Carrying only the best in motorcycling gearand apparel for scooterists.
Visit our Ebay store for our clearance and closeout items.
ROAD TRIPtWO-and-a-tHiRd SixeS On tHe tOuR de tug
fairing and saddle-bags. It was the lion, the king of the jungle personified.
Hear me roar!
In spite of the panache and sexiness of the CBXs, they were sales floor
anchors and were soon relegated to the dust-bin of moto-history. Yet they en-
gendered awe and envy wherever we parked them.
After what seemed like a lifetime, we finally emerged downstream of the
wreck and resumed our way towards Welch, the county seat of Mak-dal. I
sat in the shade while Mike and Swifty
took photos of the yellow-stone Ro-
manesque Revival style courthouse with
bullet holes in the walls and stone stairway
where beloved Matewan Police Chief
“Smiling” Sid Hatfield died in a hail of gunfire in on August 1, 1921. More
on him momentarily. I took note of the significant foliage growing from the
eaves and gutters of nearby buildings and pondered the fecundity of Mak-
dal.
Westward again, we passed through Iaeger, whose decrepitude matches
Pocahontas’, and then over Indian Ridge into Wyoming County. The 600
feet or so of elevation gain took a smidgen of an edge off the excruciating
heat of the day, but it quickly returned on the other side.
In the vicinity of Hanover we saw remnants of a flooded creek paralleling
the road. Wherever there was sufficient flat space, there were houses lining
the highway, often across the creek. Each invariably had piles of muddy de-
bris stacked against the side of the road. Each bridge was privately owned,
with substantial damage to most. Some had missing spans, others had eroded
abutments. A musty, humid air mingled with the sweet redolence of roadside
wildflowers. In Gilbert we saw scores of dirt-bikes and ATVs, vacationers
in town to ride the Hatfield and McCoy off-road trail.
Given the advanced hour of the day, we re-set our sights on Williamson
rather than Matewan, reckoning that
Williamson, a larger community, might be
more likely to have accommodations.
Cresting a rise 20 miles from our destina-
tion, we spotted storm clouds brewing.
With trees swaying and leaves falling all around, cooler air blissfully arrived.
We rode several miles in a driving rainstorm. In Williamson, we found a hotel
that was entirely on stilts to keep it above floodwaters. We parked the mo-
torcycles by the elevator underneath, covered out of the rain. Views of the
nearby Tug Fork were blocked by a substantial flood-control earthen em-
bankment.
The next morning had all the promise of being equally miserably hot as
yesterday, so we got an early start southbound towards Matewan. Matewan
is the Jericho of West Virginia, surrounded on one side by a significant con-
crete wall built for flood control and on the other side by the hillside. Huge
Page 62 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS
movable steel doors rested open alongside the three roads and two railroads
that penetrated the wall into the town. We wandered the two blocks of down-
town. A bank clerk escorted us to the back of one of the downtown buildings
where metal plugs had been shoved into bullet holes in a brick wall. We
pushed a yellow button on the wall and hidden speakers informed us about
the horrific Battle of Matewan in May, 1920. It told us that thugs hired by
the mine owners arrived in town to
evict recalcitrant union-joining
miners. Eleven people were killed
in the melee. The police chief,
“Smiling” Sid Hatfield survived,
only to be gunned down brutally –
17 bullets were found in his body
– at the courthouse in Welch fif-
teen months later. Nobody was
ever convicted of his killing. It was
a turning point in national labor re-
lations from which ramifications
still reverberate.
Five guys covered in sweat and
sawdust were refurbishing the roof
lines and gutters on an old Main
Street home. One of them said,
“Matewan is one of the most flood
prone towns in the country. We
found mud in the first floor gutter
that was left here from the flood of
‘77.” That flood destroyed every
car, most of the commercial buildings, and a third of the private homes. It
took several more devastating floods before the Army Corps of Engineers
built the wall around the town in 1997.
Mike and I walked halfway over the bridge spanning the tempestuous Tug.
It was difficult to fathom that this placid stream, perhaps 70 feet wide and 3
feet deep could wreak so much destruction on this and other neighboring
communities.
We entered a small lodge where the owner, wearing a huge red chef’s hat
told us about the history of Matewan and the nation’s most iconic feud, be-
tween the Hatfield family of West Virginia and the McCoy family of Ken-
tucky, a century-old story that still resonates with discord and conflict. He
said, “This town has recently applied for status as a National Historic Park.
With the incredible history we have here and with the Hatfield and McCoy
off-road trail, tourists are beginning to arrive in larger numbers.”
Leaving Matewan, we turned
southbound and crossed the Tug
into Kentucky where we found SR-
194. This nearly deserted, twisting
mountain road through a deep forest
was easily the equal of many of the
more famous motorcycling roads of
the Southeast. We put our geriatric
bikes through their paces, wonder-
ing how anyone could find newer
bikes more satisfying. We rode into
Virginia through Breaks Interstate
Park and into the town of Haysi,
where we called on an old friend
named Jane. “There is a lot to like
here,” she told us wistfully, “but
there is painfully little money to be
made.”
After riding fun and scenic SR-80
south to Saltville, another historic
town, I decided that Mike and
Swifty were probably tired of riding
behind me. On beautiful and twisty SR-42, they ran ahead, only to be scolded
by a state trooper for passing on a double-yellow. Kids!
Where we visited isn’t Dollywood. Nevertheless, it belongs on more
tourists’ destination lists. Mike said, “The area is pretty depressing, so it’s
kinda hard to be cheerful about it. But what I feel in my heart about the
friendly, resilient people and their strong families and communities makes
me feel good about the ride and the region.” It’s a great place to take your
motorcycle, whether antique or not.
BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 63
HudSOn ValleyRide For Kids®
SUNDAY, AUGUST 7Rain or Shine!
Location:Central Valley Elementary School,
45 Rte. 32, Central Valley, NY(Exit 16 off I-87)
Sign In: 8-9:45amInfo: 800-253-6530 • www.rideforkids.org
Mon., Sept. 26 thru Sun., Oct. 22011 Fall FiestaA Full Week of Riding Fun
The Publick HouseSturbridge, MA
508-347-3313 • Rooms: $89/nightAsk for Backroads when booking
We’ll spend our first night at the
Publick House’s Country Motor Lodge
nestled in an apple orchard
near the main inn. Enjoy a great ride
into New England on the way to our
more northern stop…
Ocean Point InnEast Boothbay, MERooms: starting at $89/night
800-552-5554Mention Backroads for a 10% discount
Perched at the tip
of a scenic, rock-
bound peninsula
in East Boothbay,
we’ll spend two
days exploring
the ‘Fingers’ of
Maine’s coast
with its historic
lighthouses, quaint villages and
all the lobsta rolls you can eat.
What would a Backroads’ Rallybe without a stop at…
The Gray Ghost InnWest Dover, VT
Single $59 • Double $98/night800-745-3615
It’s back to our old friendsCarina and Magnus and theirnever-ending hospitality. It may
only be one evening, but we’ll enjoya great meal, roasting marshmallowsaround the campfire and tall tales
on the front porch.We could end it here, but we’ll head south to Hunter Mountain and…
Colors in the CatskillsThe Hunter Inn
Rooms: starting at $110/night800-270-3992
Mention Backroads for discount
This will be the 4th year that
Colors in the Catskills will be held at
Hunter Mountain, in conjunction with
Octoberfest. Hunter Inn is within
walking distance, so we’ll enjoy a
great day’s ride then park the bikes
and join the festivities.
Monday, Sept. 26 Tues-Wed, Sept. 27-28 Thurs, Sept. 29 Fri-Sun, Sept. 30-Oct. 2
Join us for all or part, but do join us.It’s shaping up to be one of our best Rallies yet.
CALL TODAY: MIMSLYN INN, LURAY, VIRGINIA • 540-743-5105 • www.MimslynInn.com
Join us for our fourteenth Spring Break as we head south to Luray, Virginia. We’ll stay at the historicMimslyn Inn which has 80 years in hospitality and home to some of the best riding in the area.
ROOMS ARE VERY LIMITED (we mean it this time) so reserve now.Historic rooms are $99/night • Larger suites are $199/night
Please call 540-743-5105 and ask for the Backroads Group for special discount.
ALL ROADS LEAD TOBACKROADS SPRING BREAK XIV
MAY 17 - 20, 2012MIMSLYN INN, LURAY, VIRGINA
Page 64 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS