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Chef Éric Lanlard helpsWIRED test ice-creammakers – but which onelicks the competition?
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PHOTO
GRAPHY:R
ICHARDMAXTED
ZEROHERO ATChef Éric Lanlard
is famous for his
desserts – here’s his
recipe for green-
tea ice-cream, which
he used in WIRED’s
test machines.
INGREDIENTS50ml sake50ml milk60g goldencaster sugar3 egg yolks1 tablespoonmatcha powder(easily availablefrom Japanesedelicatessens oronline) blendedwith 2 tablespoonsof water to form asmooth paste200ml double cream1 tsp vanilla-bean paste
METHODMix the sugar, milkand sake over lowheat, stirring it untilthe sugar dissolves.
In a bowl, whiskthe egg yolks. Slowlypour in one-quarterof the hot milk,whisking as yougo, then add thismixture back into theremaining hot milk.
Stir the mix overa low heat, until itthickens slightly.Pour it into a bowl,via a sieve. Combinethe matcha paste,cream and vanilla,and add the milkmixture. Whisk toblend and cool, thencover and chill. Followthe directions foryour ice-cream maker.
LAB RESULTSTHIS MONTH: 08.13TELEPRESENCE CONFERENCINGICE-CREAM MAKERSIN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT
EDITED BYJEREMY WHITE
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08-13TestOpenerWI6553 [P].indd 1 19/06/2013 02:46
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2. CUISINARTGELATO &ICE-CREAMPROFESSIONALICE100BCUUnlike the KitchenAid,this maker uses acompressor system,so there’s no need topre-freeze the bowl.You have to serve upthe mixture quickly,as it only stays coolfor ten minutes or so,but the ice-creamchurned beautifully.“This was myfavourite machine,”says Lanlard.
1. KITCHENAID4.8L STANDMIXER + ICE-CREAM MAKERThis stand mixer hasan add-on ice-creammaker, so althoughit’s expensive, itis versatile. The4.8-litre bowl mustsit in the freezer for12 hours before use,so planning ahead isessential. Chef ÉricLanlard thought itsice-cream set tooquickly, as “it wasn’tas creamy and fluffyas the other makers”.
WIRED Professional-
standard results
TIRED Large size
£250 cuisinart.co.uk
SPECChurn time: 45minDecibels: 79Freeze bowl: NoBowl size: 1.5lWattage: 150WWeight: 10.2kgDimensions: H24 xW30 x D42cm
WIRED Very fast
TIRED Pre-freezing
£429 + £77kitchenaid.co.uk
SPECChurn time:
36 minDecibels: 88Freeze bowl:
Yes (12 hours)Bowl size: 4.8lWattage: 300WWeight: 9.5kgDimensions: H36 xL22 x D34cm
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ATTHEW
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MILYPECK;*
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4. KENWOODICE-CREAMMAKER IM200The bowl on thismaker does needfreezing for 12 hoursbeforehand, but itwas the fastestmodel at churningice-cream. As it wasso powerful, Lanlardfelt that theice-cream came out alittle too set, so thetexture wasn’t ascreamy as thatproduced by the othermodels. It’s also verynoisy at 92 decibels.
WIRED CompactTIRED Ice-cream setsa little too stiffly
£30 kenwood.co.uk
SPECChurn time: 26 minDecibels: 92Freeze bowl:Yes (12 hours)Bowl size: 1.1lWattage: 6kWWeight: 2.9kgDimensions: H21 xL19 x W19
3. MAGIMIXGELATOCHEF 2200This compactmachine does its jobwell, but took thelongest overall, asyou have to wait tenminutes for the bowlto chill before placingyour mixture in.Lanlard found the ice-cream “nicely aeratedand a very satisfyingscoop”. As well as aremovable 1.6-litrebowl, it has a second,fixed bowl – good formixing another batch.
WIRED Easy to use;handy second bowlTIRED Pricey
£280 magimix.co.uk
SPECChurn time: 44minDecibels: 85Freeze bowl: NoBowl size: 1.6lWattage: 150WWeight: 10kgDimensions: H34 xL24 x D24cm
5. SWAN COMEDINE WITH MEICE-CREAM &GELATO MAKERWhat makes thismachine stand out isthe way the bowlrotates when mixing,while the paddlesremain stationary.“This could be whythe ice-cream was solight,” says Lanlard.It was the loudestunit on test, gettingeven louder as theice-cream set, so it’sprobably not ideal forsmaller kitchens.
WIRED Fluffy andlight scoopTIRED Very noisy
£48 amazon.co.uk
SPECChurn time: 32 minDecibels: 94Freeze bowl:Yes (12 hours)Bowl size: 2lWattage: 50WWeight: 4.28kgDimensions: H29 xL24 x W21cm
IN S ID ESCO OPWIRED mixes it up with homeice-cream makers
I C E - C R E A M M A K E R S / 0 8 / T E S T
3 4 5
G L O B A L A N N U A LI C E - C R E A MC O N S U M P T I O N *
US – 17 litres per headAustralia – 10.3 litresSweden – 8 litresDenmark – 7 litresUK – 6 litres
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