Greetings,

As the user of an ELNA you have chosen one of the world's fi nest precision-made sewin g machines. It offers you new dimensions of home sewing :

satisfaction - simplicity - versatility Depend upon th e easy-to-follow instructions in this booklet to use properly and care for your won derful ELNA. When you have become well acquainted with your machine you can save time and money by referring to the handy index of general subjects on page 2.

I am the ELNA elf, inviting you first of all to go throu gh t he booklet with me-page by page. Follow me closely and find that home sewing can be relaxing and pleasurable-not hard work­also that a good understanding of these instruc­tions can eliminate costly service calls as t ime goes on.

Ready-let's go . ..

Contents and Usef u l Hint s

Preparing y our ELNA

Giving your m hln Iii s rves Is your gu r p rfo rm In

II d -p rf cl

Evon t h b t wing m Ichlno wil l not sew properl y wi th a needle 0'1 poor quality. Choose needles of fi rst-class qua lity, system 705 or the American styl e 15 x1.

• Needle and thread must be adapted to t he kind of work to be done.

Pages

3-10

ELNAgraph 11

Straight Sewing 12-13

• Universal tension 13

S ewing with automat ic stitches 14-16 and 23

• Selecti on dial fo r use with th e built- in ELN A discs 14

• Interchangeable EL NAdiscs 15 and 23

• Variations of St itch Width 16

• Centering th e Needle 16

Some Pract ical S ew ing 17-22

Additional ELN A Su per Features 23

• " Combi " Stitch Patterns 23

• B uttonhole, N o-turn 24

• Practical St it c hes w ith ELNA Super 25-26

• First familiarize yourself wit h the sim pl er kinds of work. You will t hen take better advantage of th e many other possi bi li­ties prov ided by your ELNA.

Other Uses of ELN Adiscs 27

Assortment of ELNAdiscs 28

Examples of .. Combi " S t itch Patterns 28

Ext ra Accessories 29-30

Servicing and D isorders 31

• Do not try to remedy a disorder without first havin g consulted our recommenda­t ions.

• Make as much use of your ELNA ser­vice as you wish . In each ELNA shop, th ere is a qualified personnel ready to help you. Under the conditions of the guarantee, they are the only ones competent to deal with . technical matters concerning your mach ine.

Table of Adjustm ents 32

Alphabetic Index 33

ELNA Star de Luxe CI. 41 ELNA P lana Star de Luxe CI. 43

ELNA S uper CI. 62 ELN A Plana Super CI. 64

2

Preparing your ELNA

Opening the case and Unpacking

• f or the f ree-a rm ELNA.

Fig. 3

Remove the 4 screws at th e bottom;

• Keep them i n t he accessory box for use again, if necessary (important for sh ipping).

Fig. 4

o pen the flap.

Fig. 5 a

Remove the cover.

Take out t he foot control.

Fig. 5 b Take out

the machine,

the accessory box.

Fig. 6

Sewing Table

To increase the sewing su rface, use the cover as a sewin g tabl e.

3

4

Accessories The accessory box contains t he f ollowing stan­dard accessori es: 1 presser foot (already on t he machine) (7) 1 darning foot (8) 1 darning and button plat 1 zipper f oot (9) 1 embroidery and button holo f ot (10) 1 buttonhole kni'l 5 bobbin s 1 assort ment of 5 need l s 1 needle threader 6 single ELNAdiscs 1 screwdriver 1 cl eani ng brush 1 empty oiler 1 ELN A -oil refill Additional for ELNA Super : 1 buttonhole f oot (11) 1 assortment of 10 (instead of 5) needles 1 single ELNAdisc (instead of 6) 5 double ELNAdiscs How to use the accessories is explained f rom page 17 onwards.

Fig. 12

Electrical Controls Check the voltage on the switch plate. Make sure that t he voltage is the same as that indicated on the light bulbs in your home. If th is is not t h ~ case, do not plug in the machi ne, but get in touch with the ELNA service. Do not go by the markings on the wall plugs.

Electric Foot Control and Cord Plug th ese in as shown in fig. 12.

Electronic Foot Control If the fo ot control is mar­ked" electronic " , it is also equipped with a small switch as shown in this sketch. You then have two ranges of sewing speeds, namely :

Fast speed : With the switch at "+ " Slow speed : ' With the switch at" -"

Starti ng the Machine The more you press the foot control pedal down, the faster t he machine runs.

Fig. 13

Sew ing Light The switch is on the switch plate. To replace the bulb: First of all, pull out the plug. Press with the screwdriver to make the lamp come out. Bayonet socket : push in, turn and remove th e bulb.

o

12

13

Maintenance and Cleaning

The ELNA will always serve you fa ithfully if it is cared for properly.

Fig. 14

Remove t he needle and foot. Open t he rotary hook cover. Take off the needle plate (with the screwdriver).

Brush t he rotary hook and feed dog with the cl ean ing bru sh , to remove the pieces of th read and lint .

Oiling

Fig. 15-16

To oil t he machine, raise the t hread tak e-up lever (see arrow) .

Use on ly good quality oil f or your sewing machine.

Two drops of ELN A oil will suffice for each oil hole. The latter are painted red . Oil occasion­ally according to use.

I n case of prolonged, unint errupted use, place o ne drop of o il on t he rotary hook f rom time t o t ime.

Fig. 17

Insertion of t he needle plate.

14

15

16

17

Fig. 18-19

Quick Change of the Presser Feet-

wi thout a screwdriver.

For all access ories, wh ther standard or extra, raise th e needle bar and the presser bar. T urn out the wings of the clamping sc rew and loosen it. Fasten t he f oot. Tighten the cla mping screw, tu rn in th e wing s.

Fig. 20

N.B. The darning f oot is fastened fro m th e rear, th e lever of the foot passing behind t he need le clamp stud. Make sure to lower t he presser fo ot lever before starting to darn.

Threads

The use of good quali t y du ll or mercerized thread is preferable.

A dry t hread becomes brittle. It regains its st re,ngth when placed near an open window overn ig ht.

Fig. 21

For darn ing, use left twist thread (stronger) .

Choice of T hreads and Needles

Select the th read according to the kind of work and material used, t he needle according to the thread: Darn ing, sewing or embroidery thread according to the fineness, durabil ity and the appearance to be given to the sewing work.

Threads Needles System

Materials

I I Synthetic 705

Cotton Silk Fibres I5X1

Sheer 120·100· sewing sewing 70

10 ---------

Used (darning) darning darning darning 70 120-100· 10

- - - ---

Ordinary 100-60· sewing sewing 80

12 --- - - -

Medium and 80-40· sewing sewing 80-90

heavy weights 12-14

·Sizes may change depending on the country.

---------~~

18

19

20

21

Needle

Fig. 22

Insert the needle into the needle clamp, the flat of t he needle against the i ndex fin ger. Make sure that the needle is pushed as far as it will go . Tighten th e screw firmly (without screw­driver).

B obbin Windi ng

Fig. 23-24

Oesengage the flywheel by unscrewing the coup­ling knob by a q uarter of a turn.

Fig. 24 a Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder w ith the ho les on top. The thread wi ll then wind and unwind automatically in the right di rection .

Push the bobbin winder to the right.

Pull out the spool pin. Place the spool on it and pass the thread through the guide. Wind the end of the thread around the bobbin by hand, then wind by machine, w hile pressing lightly on the spool with the left hand, in order to streIch the thread and fill the bobbin evenly (fig . 24). T he bobbin stops automatically when it is full.

Fig. 23

Tighten the flywheel couplin g kn ob firmly (tu rn knob in opposite direction to the arrow), cut the thread and remove the bobbin by pushing away the bobbin winder.

22

------ '£,S!;= ~g~.",.

..... 24 a

24

Fig. 25

The bobbin sh ould unwind in th e direction of the arrow.

Fig. 26

Inserting the Bobbin and T hreading t he Lower Thread

Place the bobbi n into the rotary hook with the holes on the top. Retain the bobbin with the lef t index f i nger and pass the thread through the slot. Bring the thread around to t he front, to the right, at the ang le ill ustrated.

Fig. 27

Close the rotary hook cover and draw t he thread into the slot with a slight tug . It then snaps into the tension spring automatically.

Fig. 28

Check

Open the rotary hook cover and check by pulling the thread gently to t he rear; it should not come out of the sl ot. If it does repeat the operation as explained above (Fig. 26-27). Pull out about 6 inches of thread.

Fig. 29

Changing t he Bobbin

Presser bar raised. Pull the extractor down into th e central hole of the bobbin. When it is released, th e bobbin is automati cally removed.

Threadi ng the Upper T hread

Fig. 30

Needle bar and presser bar up. Pass the th read through the two thread guides

the upper tension slot (hold the spool back when inserting the t hread, giving it a slight tug upwards)

t he thread ta ke-up lever from left to righ t

the thread gu ides.

The needle clamp is to be threaded exactly as shown in the drawing.

Fig. 31-31a

Thread t he needle from front to back.

When usin g t he needle threader, you must therefore insert it into the eye of the needle from the rear.

Pull forward about 6 inches of thread .

T hreading T win Need les See extra accessories, page 30.

Fig. 32-32 a

Proceed in the same way but with two threads. Pass one thread on either side of the separati ng disc of the upper tension (fig. 32 a), as well as on either side of the thread guide on the needle clamp.

30

31

32

Drawing up the Lower Thread

Fig. 33

Hold the upper thread between the left index finger and the edge of the needle plate.

Place your hand on t he top of the flywheel, turn it for one full turn-towards you-so that the thread take-up lever is lowered and t hen raised completely to its highest position.

The lower thread is then drawn up automatically. Free it by hand completely.

Fig. 34

Make sure that the lower thread crosses t he bobbin correctly.

Fig. 35

Close the rotary hook cover, pull both threads about 6 inches towards the rear and under t he presser foot.

Place the material beneath the presser foot and lower the presser foot lever. Never run a threaded machine without any material under the presser foot.

The two threads should be held back while sewing the first two or three stitches, every time you start sewing.

CI!)

33

34

35

ELNAgraph

Fig. 36 T he ELNAgraph is the automat ic st itch control of t he machine.

It consi sts of:

1. Stitch selection dial

2. Ejector for th e ELNAdiscs

3. Needle positi on wheel

4. Stitch width lever

5. Stitch length knob.

The fo llowing symbols will facilitate the prepara­tion of your machine:

~ Selecti on dial

o ELNAdisc

~ Stitch width lever

® Stitch length knob

Important Characteristics

Fig. 37-38-39 • The stitch w idth lev er has vario us f unc­

t ions and can be turned to one of the f oll owing position s:

1. fo r a pre-determi ned stitch wi dth- fig. 37

2. for a varying st itch width- fig . 38

And w ith ELNA Super :

3. for no-turn buttonholes-fi g. 39

• The Universal P ressure of t he Foot

T he ideal pres sure has been adjusted at the factory-for both sheer and heavy materials­so th at no adj ustment s are req uired.

37

38

Supermatic 01·234

39

Straight Sewing

For the preparation of your ELNA, t he f eet to use and for the ad j ustment s, see chart on page 32.

Normal Straigh1 Sewing

Use the presser foot (see page 4).

Place the material under t he fo ot.

Lower the presser foot lever.

A djustment s

Needle posit ion wheel at the centered posit ion (red mark).

Stitch width lever at " 0 " .

Stitch length kn ob at 1 to 4.

Fig. 40

Forward Stitchi ng

Turn the sti tch length kn ob to the desired length, between 1 and 4 (black numbers) .

A dapt th e sti tch length to the kind of work and the thickness of t he material used, i.e. short stitches for fi ne material, longer stitch es for heavy mate rial.

T he two threads should be held back while sew ing the first t wo or t hree stitches.

Fig. 41-42

Reverse S titching

a. For a short d istance, to fin i sh off or t o make a short seam:

Push the lever. Wh en it is released, t he ELNA automatical ly goes back to forward stitching (fig. 41).

b. Prolonged use :

Turn the stitch length knob between 1-4 red numbers (fig. 42).

In principle, straight sewing does not require other adjustments. The t ension of the threads is universal-see next page.

Fig. 43

Removing the Material

• Turn the fl ywheel t owards you to raise the thread take-up lever to its h ighest position.

• Lift up the presser f oot lever.

• Pullout the material towards the back and cut the thread with the thread cutter on the presser bar.

43

Universal Tension

With the uni versal tension, most of th e usual sewing jobs can be done w i t hout c hanging the tension, i .e. :

Fig. 44

Upper tension : Red number "5 H, facing the guide mark.

Fig. 45

Lower t ension : Red number "1 H , faci ng th e t ip of th e tension leve r.

Fo r cert ain jobs (nylon th reads, hemstitchi ng, special seams, etc.), an adjustment can be made by tu rn ing the upper tension regulator knob.

If t he lower ten sion has to be altered (nylo n work), turn the graduated sc rew with t he screw­driver. The graduati on marks all ow you to come back easil y to the universal tension.

Fig. 46

Perfect t ension : The t hreads are locked between th e two layers of cloth.

Fig. 47

Upper tens ion t oo strong : T he threads are locked on top of the material. Decrease the tension by t urni ng t he knob in th e direction of th e arrow.

Fig . 48

Upper t ension t oo w eak : The threads are locked on th e underside of the material. Increase the tension by tu rn ing t he kn ob in th e direction of t he arrow.

Sewi ng with A utomati c Stitches

T he ELNAgraph and the ELNAdiscs (both built-in and interchangeable) enable you to sew a practically un limited variety of automatic stitches.

Fig. 49-50

Selection Dial

a. A t posit ions 1 to 6, as desired, it allows 6 st itches to be selected and sewn with t he built-in ELNAdiscs:

• Zigzag stitch (1)

• Edging st itch (2)

• Blind stitch (3)

• Overcasting (4)

• 2 decorative stitches (5, 6)

as are illustrated opposit e, fig. 50.

T he use of th ese stitches is explai ned from page 17 and onward s.

Fig. 49

Adjustments

fo r sewing th e automatic stitches 1 to 6 on th e selection dial :

• Stitch width lever at .. 0 n .

• Turn t he selecti on dial to the stitch desired.

• Needle posit ion wh eel at the center posi tion (red mark).

• St itch width lever w ith the mark " . " on t op on positions 1-4, as desired .

• Stitch length knob on position )4-4, as des ired,

Example:

I~ o 2 3 4

~ 5

.Fig. 51

. Selection Dial

b. At position II A ", you can sewall the stitches that are possible with th e inter­changeable ElNAdiscs (see page 15).

CD

® m',iM,tffiM'fl11I¥i'i"t,

® 50

51

I, Interchangeable ELNAdiscs

Fig. 52

i,

, I

The following ELN A discs are supplied with the ELNA Star de Luxe:

6 single ELN A discs (single profile).

The stitch wh ich will automatically be repro­duced is engraved on the ELNAdisc, so that the use of a special table for selecting the stitches is avoided (see assortment of ELNAdi scs, page 28).

Fig. 53-54 and 55-56

Changing the ELNAdisc

• Stitch length knob and stitch width l ever at " 0 " (fi g. 53) .

• Remove th e "disc " from th e ELNAgraph (fig. 54) .

• Insert t he new "disc" in th e ELNAgraph (fig. 55-56) i the wh ite circle must be placed over th e dri ving-p in so t hat th e di sc snaps in.

Fig. 57

Visual Indicator

for automatic patterns.

T he circle on the ELNAdisc brought opposite the w h ite arrow-by tu rning the flywheel-indi­cates the begin ning of each automatic stitch pattern .

It is not necessary to make use of t his for or­dinary sewin g wo rk but the indicator is very useful in order to determin e t he begin ni ng and

"the end of certain decorat ive st itch pattern s.

52

53

54

55

56

57

Fig. 58

Adjustm ents for Sewing Automatic Stitches w ith Single ELNAdiscs

1. Selection dial at position " A " .

2. Needle pos ition wheel at the centered position .

3. Stitch width lever on positi on 1-4 as desired,

mark "." on top. 4. Stitch length knob on positi on 1-4 as desired.

Example:

~ y. I ~ 0 2 3 4

0 05 1

~-~ ~

Tapered Stitch Width

Fig. 59

The width of all t he automatic st itch es may be adjusted gradually, at wi ll by hand.

Pull out and turn the stitch width lever into th e hori zontal position. It can then be moved freely fro m 1-4 and from 4-1 , with you r thumb.

Fig. 60

Thi s free adjustment of the stitch width is par­ticularly suitable for making fi lled-in patterns and tapered monograms as well as for doing fancy em broidery, particu larly if based on the zigzag stitch (selecti on dial on 1).

Centering t he Need le

Fig. 61

For certain kinds of sewing such as bindings , zip fasteners, etc. (straight stitch) and buttons, buttonholes, etc. (zigzag) , t he stitch can be dis­placed towards the right or left of th e center. Tu rn th e need le posit ion wh eel to the left or to th e right or to any position between left and rig ht.

Example: center (red mark), left, right.

a) Strai ght sti tch;

b) Zigzag stitch at stitch width" 2 ";

c) Zigzag st itch at ' gradually variable st itch wi dt h.

"

58

a ' ·2 3 4

59

60

a b c , , , , I , , , I I

,J I I I , , , , , , I

Ll , , I , , I , I I I

S ome P ractical Sewing

Your instruction book gives you all the necessary information about how your ELNA works, but it is not a sewing course! The fo llowing pages serve as a complete guide for the efficient use of your ELNA. Other practical suggestions can be given to you by your ELNA dealer, and by t he special booklets you can obtain from him. Find out about these !

Zigzag S t itc h

~ 1 ~ 2-4 ~ 1-4

Use the presser foot.

Usefu l for overcastin g, etc.

Sat i n S titc h - Fig. 62

~ 1 ~ 1-4 ~ X-y,

The sat in stitch is easy to adjust thanks to the large distance which has been allowed for fi ne adjustments between 0 and 1, on th e stitch length knob.

Generally used f or decorative pattern s, mono­grams, etc.

A nice raised effect is obtained by cover ing the first row of st itches, once or twice, using th e same st itch width .

Tapered Satin S t itch - Fig. 63

~ 1 ~ 1-4-1 ® X-y,

Turn the st itch width lever to its horizontal posi­ti on. The width of the sti tch es can be ch anged while sewing, to obtain a st it ch w ith a fuller or tapered effect, as desired . It is used fo r making monog rams and fancy patterns .

Fo r monogrammin g, stretch the mate rial on an embroidery hoop.

Overcasting - Fig. 64

~ 4 ~ 2-4 ® 1,-1

Place th e work as in fi g. 64. Thi s overcasti ng is pa rticu larly durable and withstands repeated washing.

Edge-to-Edge 'Sewing - Fig. 65

~ 4 ~ 3-4 ~ X-y,

It is best to join two selvedges.

1 J

Fig. 66

Patching

~ 4 ~ 4 ® X-X

Cover the damaged part with a patch. Sew wi th the serpentine stitch around t he edges of the patch. Then cut out the defective portion of the original, close to the serpenti ne stitchin g. W ith this simple method the patching is do ne in one operation and extra thickness or fe ll seams are avoided.

Fig. 67

Patching J ersey Material

~ 4 ~ 4 ® X-Yo Proceed in exactly the same way, but it is pre­ferable to make the patch circular and to sew it on about Yo" (1 centimetre) from the edge. Then cut off th e loose edges of the patch and the defective part of the original material.

Hemming Jersey Material

Only one fold is made and sewn in the same basic way as the patch, that is to say Yo" (1 cen­timeter) away from t he edge, which is t hen cut back close to the st it ch ing.

Fig. 68

Shell Stitch

~ 3 ~ 4 ~ 1-2

It is mainly sewn on th e bias. Every sixth stitch shou ld be made outside t he material. Then sew or put the bias in place, depending on the kind of work which is being done. Also su itable for sewing on jersey material.

Fig. 69

B lind Stitch

~ 3 ~ 1-4 ~ 1-4

• Form the hem: I, (a = wrong si de of fab ric).

• Fold it back, underneath the fabri c: II.

Ia

lIa • Place it under the presser

foot as sh own in fig. 69. i---r-- ----''''

• Sew the hem, making sure L-__ "':"':="-_ -'

that only the wide stitches to the left enter into the fold.

When the work is finished, unfold it and press .

If you often sew this stitch, the special blind stitch foot with guide is recommended-See ext ra accessories page 29.

66

67

68

69

Buttonholes

No-turn Buttonho les see page 24.

It may be preferable, first, to make a tri al button­hole on a scrap of material.

Buttonhole 3/16" (4 mm) wide

~ 1 ~ 2-4-2-4-0. ~ Yo

Fig. 70

• T urn the needle pos ition wheel to the ext reme left.

• Set stitch width lever at " 2 ", with mark ". " on top.

Fig. 71

• Sew the first side of the buttonhole. Lower t he needle into the material at th e right si de of this row.

Fig. 72

• Rai se the foot and p ivot t he material half a turn around the needle. Lower th e foot. Raise th e needle.

Fig. 73

• Set th e stitch width lever at " 4 " . Sew a few stitches f or th e bartack. Raise the needle.

Fig. 74

• Set the stitch width lever at " 2 ", sew the other side of th e buttonh ole, parallel to the first, but 1/1 6" shorter. Rai se th e need le.

Fig. 75

• Set the sti tch width lever at" 4 " and sew a few stitches f or th e bartack, then fi ni shing the but­tonhole. Raise the needle.

Fig. 76

• Set the stitch width lever at " 0" and fasten th e threads with a few stitch es, holding th e material back by hand so that it will not be fed.

Fig. 77

Reinforced Button hole

Insert a soft embroidery cord under th e left groove of the foot. Proceed in the same manner as f or ordi nary buttonholes. To finish t he button­hole, pull t he protrud ing ends of t he cord an d cut them off cl ose to th e button hole.

Fig. 78

Cutting the Button hole

Proceed as illustrated.

Fig. 79

Repairing Buttonholes

Sew over t he worn-out sides of the buttonhole wi th a satin sti tch (or with the Selection Dial at "2 ", sti tch width " 4 " ).

Fig. 80

Buttons

~ 1 ~ 2-4 ® 0

Decenter the needle to t he left.

Adju st t he stitch widt h so that t he needle will descend in t he center of the holes of t he button. Sew about 6 to 8 stitches. W hen sewing-on 4-hole button s, move the button after having sewn th e first two holes and sew t he second pair of holes in exactly t he same manner.

Raise th e needle, set the stitch width lever at position" 0 " and fasten th e t hreads by sewing a few st itch es in th e same hole.

Snap buttons as well as hooks and eyes, roll ers for curtai ns etc., are sewn-on in the same way. If you often sew- on buttons, the help given by the button foot (see ext ra accessories, page 29) and button plate wi ll be appreciated.

W

77

78

79

80

Further Practical Sewing

Fig. 81-84

N ormal Darning

• A ttach the darn ing plate and darning fo ot. The darning plate av o id s t he use of a drop-feed mechanism and makes darn i ng easier (wit hout a darning hoop) by coveri ng up t he openi ngs in the needl e plate.

• Place the materia l beneath the darni ng foot and make sure to lower the presser foot lever before starting to darn.

• Stretch th e material tightly and place the fi n­gers as close to the darnin g foot as possibl e.

• To darn a hole, sew a screen of closely woven stitches : going fro m ri ght to left and vice versa.

• Fin ish t he darn by sewing parallel serpentines forwa rd and reverse.

To re inforce a worn-out spot, it is not necessary to sew a screen fi rst.

For parti cularly fin e darning, we recommend usi ng t he darning plate with round hole (see extra access ori es, page 29).

For darn ing wi t h automat ic st it ches see page 25.

Fig. 85

Worn-out Edg es

Darn in the usual manner, but when the edge of the material is reached, turn back quickly to avoid forming knots. Can also be done very neatly by darni ng with automatic stitches (see page 25).

81

82

83

84

85

(\ n I I :--", n I : " I I ( ' I I ", 1 : r \ I I I I II, I I I I I 1 ' 1 I

~ I : , I I I

I ~ I : I I I I I I I I

\ 1 tJ : I l) I I L' I I '.) I ~ I

:...: U ~) tJ \)

Fig . 86 a Wool Tricot

,Q;o, ~3®3 Use the button plate.

Place the woo l as in fig. 86 a and fasten it with a few stitches.

Fig. 86 b

Cover the hole with the wool by sewing from left to right and vice versa, starting f rom the front and going backwards.

Fig. 87

Cut the wool an d fasten it off in the usual way.

Fig. 88

Zip Fasteners

~ 0 (£) 1-4

Use th e zipper foot which can be moved to the left or righ t of the needle, after the screw has been loosened. This screw must be tigh­ten ed again afterwards. T he foot allows you to sew in the zip fastener without having to turn the work. It is al so suitable for sewing-in cords, and for sew ing right at th e edge of a piece of cloth, etc.

86 a

86 b

87

88

Additional ELNA S uper Features

Fig. 89

Interchangeable ELNAdiscs supplied the sewing machine: 1 single ELNAdisc (si ng le profi le); 5 double ELNAdiscs (double profi le) .

Fig. 90 Sewing with Double ELNAdiscs

• Selection dial at position" A ".

with

• Needle position wh ee l at the centered positi on (red mark).

• Stitch width lever: mark" I" on top, on position 1-4 as desired.

• Stitch length knob at position " A " .

Example:

~ A

0 107

Fig. 91-92

Stitch Tuner

~ 0 2 3 4

. . "" "" :I. '\. , ~ »7)~71

In principle all the stitches are perfectly shaped. However, for certai n very intricate sti tches (true hemstitching, etc.) sewn with the double ELNA­discs, it may be desirable to lengthen or shorten the pattern to adapt it better to the material and thread used .

• To lengthen or shorten the stitch, t urn the knob to "+ " (to th e left) or to " -" (to th e rig ht), respectively.

" Combi " Stitch Patterns These are obtained when using the built-in and the double interchangeable ELN Adiscs at the same time.

Fig. 93

Simply put • t he stitch selection dial on th e correspondi ng

nu mber ; • a double ELNAdisc, as desired, into the

ELNAgraph; • needle position wheel at the center position

(red mark). • the stitch width lever with the mark " I" on

top: at positi on 1-4 as desired ; • th e stitch length knob at " A" ;

Example:

o 2 3 4

~ 60 141 1

See page 28 for examples of " Combi " Stitch Patterns.

89

90

93

No-turn Buttonholes

Automatic B uttonholes 3/16" (4 mm) Wide, W it hout Turning the Material

Remove any interchangeable ELNAdisc t hat may be in the ELNAgraph.

Preparation

Fig. 94

Perfo rm t he fo llowing operations in t he order given :

• Set t he selection dial at position" 1 " , zigzag stitch;

• Turn th e needle position wheel all th e way to th e left;

• W ith t he stitch width lever at posit ion " 0", pu ll it out a bit and tu rn it, so the" buttonhole" mark is on top, and then set it at position" 2 " ;

• Tu rn the stitch length kn ob to position" A "; • Make sure once more that the st itch width lever

is properly set at position " 2" .

Sewing the Buttonhole

Fig. 95

Sew the first side of the buttonhole. Raise the needle.

Fig. 96

Set the stitch width lever at position" 4 ". Sew a few stitches fo r the bartack. Raise the needle.

Fig. 97

Set the stitch width lever at position" 2 " , and sew the second side of the buttonhole, but make this slight ly shorter than the first side. Rai se the need le.

Fig. 98

Set the stitch width lever at position "4 " and fi nish the buttonhole by sewing a few more st itches. Raise the needle.

Fig. 99

Set th e st itch wi dth lever at position " 0 ", and fasten th e threads with a few stitches, whil st holding back the material by hand.

Fine Adj ustment

Fig. 100

Depending on t he material or thread used, the zigzag stitch ing of th e first row may happen to be too ti ght or too loose. This can easily be cor­rected with the stitch tuner as follows :

If the zigzag stitch of the first row is: - too t ight, t urn to "+ " (to the left); - too loose, turn to " - " (to the right).

Practical Stitches with the ELNA S uper

Fig. 101 and 102

Straight - Stit ch - Ov ercasti ng with t he " H ousehold Overlock" Stitch.

~ A 0 149 ~ 2-4 ® A

Th e ELNAdisc 149 makes it possible to sew and to overcast at t he same time. This st itching re­mains supple and can be stretched. It is suitable for many dressmaking purposes, particularly f or sewin g jersey material, hems, putti ng in elastics, etc.

Fig. 103

Elastic T r iple S eam

~ A 0 149 ~ 0 (0 A

The seam is supple, elast ic and not liable to break. It is suitable for tricot, seams on the bias, puttin g- in lin ings (armholes), etc.

Fig. 104

. Darning w it h A utomatic Stitches

~ A 0 151 ~ 0 (£) A

See assortment of ELNAdiscs, page 28. The forward and backward movements of the material are produced automat ically. Pu ll t he materia l gently to the left. This darn ing is chiefly suitable for rei nforci ng t hin parts of material, worn-out thickness es and edges. T he width of the rei nf orcement can be doubled by making a second row of work parallel to the fi rst. For stronger darns , first proceed in one directi on and th en tu rn t he material and sew again at right angles.

101

102

103

104

105

Fig. 105

S uperstretc h Stitch 106

~ A 0 152 ~ 4 ® A

The Superstretch stitch sews and overcasts in a single operation. It is used for the new st retch materials, made either of wool, cotton, silk or synthetics. It makes th em hold t hei r shape too.

Fig. 106 and 107

Edging or Setting a Collar in Jersey Fabri cs

~ A 0 152 ~ 4 ®A

The Superstretch stitch is ideal for th is kind of sewing. Sew on the edging material or the collar, right side to right side (fig. 106) then turn it out (fig. 107).

This stitch is also very practical for sewing bath­ing suits, necklines, leg openings and for repair­ing underwear, cuffs and other worn-out edges.

107

Some Other Uses of the Interchangeable ELNAdiscs

S uper-Zigzag or Rick-Rack-Fig. 109

This is the zigzag stitched 9-fold formin g a rick­rack, for trimming apron pockets, decorating ski rts , etc.

Pearl Stitch- Fig. 110

Made without pearl cotton. For small mono­grams, napkins, etc.

Turkish Hemstitch-Fig. 111

Genuine art-embroidery for table sets, trou s­seaux.

Scallops-Fig. 112

Edges of organdie flounces, evening dresses etc. Embroideries on children's clothes.

Point de Paris- Fig. 113

Del icate embroidery on bodices, lace applique work, insertions of lace in petticoats. Fringes. Light inlaid work on silk, nylon, muslin .

Embroidery Stitch- Fig. 114

For tablecloths, cushions, couch covers.

V enetian Hemstitch-Fig. 115

. Finishing off hems,flounces. Embroidering underclothes, dusters. Jumpers.

Dai sies-Fig. 116

Elegant tiny flowers on boleros, summer dresses, capes. Necklines and armholes. Wadding, dress­ing gowns, quilted blankets.

See assortment of ELNAdiscs page 28.

Sewing with Twin Needles

See extra accessories, page 30.

Place the needle position wheel at the centered position. If ELNAdiscs are used, the stitch width lever should not be set beyond positi on " 3 " .

Combined Work with Twin Needles and ELNAdiscs 07 and 04-Fig. 117

T ucks can be made with twin needles.

109

~ A 0 141 ® A .~ 2-4

110

~ A 0 141 ~ A ~ 0

111

~ A 0 101 ® A ~ 1-3

112

~A

113

~ A 0 126 ® A ~ 2-4

114

115

~ A 0 140 ® A ~ 2-4

116

~ A 0 142 ® A ~ 2-4

117

Assortment of ELNAdiscs

New discs are continually being created. T hey can be obtained from your ELNA dealer.

118 _________ 119 ....... ___ _

Selecti on of ELNAdiscs f or : Star de Luxe and S uper

Single ELNA Super ELNAdiscs Double ELNAdiscs

Fig. 118 Fig. 119

01 /vVvVv\'V'/v' 101 iWVVVVVVJ1I&Vll 137 A A 4::.. ~ 02 J\j\il./\!V\!\, 104 ~ 138 000000 l 03 /\IIIINNI/IN 105 LSl5lSlSLSl5l 139 ¥ "'if ¥ "'if 04~ 106~140~

05 ~ 107 '7'7'7':>';',:>'7'7 141 ."'~ 06 vv"\,I\A/\, 108 ~ 142 ilEJlEJlEJlEJlEJlEJlEJIE : 08 ~ 109~143~< 10 IfI/VVV1[l{l. 110 <:J'i <:J'i <:J'i <:J'i ~ 144 ~ 11 • ............ 111 ~ 145 c:;.p g.o M 12 '\l\1\l\I\1 112 ~ 146 llllllUll1.1.l.lll

13 •••••• -... 113 ~ 147 ~ 14 ILA1JJ,]JJ 114 ~ 148 ~ 15 ................ .; 115 ~ 149 :xxxxxxxxxx>oo 16 ~....... 116 ~ 150 I I I I

17 ••••••• 117 ~151 18 ' •••• 4 118~ 19 lii,iiliillll""" 11 9 ~ 152 IIIIIII 20 I ••••• 120~

21 Vv-/v'" 121 ~ 23 .A,A,A.AA, 122 ~

24 I/VYVV'IV'IV 123 ~

25 ~ 124~ 28 'I:'J:1I!!1I1II 125 ~ 29 ~Nt·II.·".·.·1t 126 f lllll l1 lf ilPllPlI1I

127~ 31 r'W"'l..1"'1.J"'1.. 32 ./" ......... ~~

33 • • • • 34 ....... .....

35 ....... 'T' •

36 ~ •••• 'II 37~

128 > <> <> <> < 129 S ZS ZS ZS Z 130~

131~

132~

133 r t:r '\:( 134 'lh:::h-h--h-j 135~

136 ~ e e e r:

120

Examples of " Combim atic " Stitch Patterns

0 ~ O~ 101 3 ?v/Vlv/VlVIVIVI' 127 4 ~ 101 4 ~ 129 4 ~ 101 5 ~ 130 1 WVWVWVVW 104 2 ~ 130 2 ~ 104 3 \\\\\\\\' 130 4 ~ 105 4 DYOYOYOYOl 131 ~ 107 N'NVWNVI 132 ~ 107 2 \AAAAAAAAAAA; 132 2 '1""V'1'V'1'V 107 3 \MMM6MM, 134 3 rw \v w 107 ~~< 134 4 ~ 107 5 ~ 139 4 ~ 107 6 ~ 139 6 ~ 109 3

7 ""v ""v ""v 140 4 ~ 109 4 \.5\S\5\.5'D'\ 140 5 .~ 110 4 ~ 140 6 ~ 112 4 ~ 141 1 VVVV\IVIIJ 116 4 ~ 141 2 fV\J\/V\I\/\ 118 ~ 141 3 V'iJ'iJV'iJ'iJV 120 /l./VVV 141 4 NHNmN 121 3 I''''"VV ""1J' 141 ~

121 4 ~ 141 6 NVVVVV\ 124 ~ 143 TvTvTvTvYvY 126 UNINININININI '143 2 ~ 126 ~ 143 4 ~ 126 3 /IIi1IiIII1VMVl 143 5 N'vV\,NvV 126 4 ~ 146 1 ~ 126 5 ~ 146 2 ~ 126 6 ~ 148 6 ~ 127 2 ~ 149 3 'VVVV'VV'V'V 127 3 I I I I

Extra Accessories

Button Foot- 200 (see page 20)

For butto ns and hooks, curtain rin gs, etc.

Darning Plat e with round hole-224 (see page 21 ) For particularly fine darn ing.

B utton Foot with Adjustable Guide-202 (see page 20) For sewing buttons with a stem on woollen s, collars, heavy materials, etc.

Blind Stitch Foot with G uide- 203

Highly appreciated for making hems on sheer and medium fabrics, linen , curta ins, etc.

Qu i lting foot-204

For sewing parallel rows of stitches at equal distances, which can be adjusted (quilting), for guiding edges and for sewing-in cords.

Multiple Cord Foot- 205

As many as five cords can be inserted into this foot. By coveri ng them with decorat ive stitches, very attractive designs can be obtained.

Hemmer Feet, 1/16", 1/8", Yo" (2, 4, 6 mm)-206

For hems of various widths.

Roll er Foot- 207

For variou s types of sewing and decorative work, especially on plast ics, the edges of thi ck mate­rials, and fo r sewin g pieces of elast ic or slippery materials of different thicknesses together.

Felling Foot-20B

For sewing two pieces of material together wi th a felled hem.

Gathering Foot-209

For gathering materials or for sewing-on gath­ered valances.

Tucker Foot-210

For making tucks. A twin needle is used for this work.

Ro lled H em Foot-211

For making rolled hems in combinati on with the zigzag stitch or other decorative stitches. Mainly used for making fine handkerchiefs , chiffon scarves, etc.

Embroidery Foot-223

Metal presser foot for sewing corded stitch patterns, hemstitches and ornamental stitches in quantity.

200

202

204

206

211

208

210

223

224

203

209

Braiding Foot-212

For sewing braids, soutaches and cords.

Eyelet Plates 1/16" and 1/8" (2 and 4 rnm)-Awl - 213

Make it possible to embroider eyelets wit h a diameter of 1/16" and 1/8". The awl is used for piercing the material to make th e holes.

Twin Needles 2 and 2.7 m m- 216

For sewing tucks , reinforced seams, decorative patterns, etc.

Need le Plate f or Marking w ith Tailor Tacks and for Basting and T acking-218

For marking the material with tailor tacks co n­sistent with the pattern. A lso used for making long, loose stitches which are easily rem oved after sewing and makes it possible to sew long stitches or apparent seams with embroidery cotton or coars e sewing thread .

Needle P lat e w it h Round H ole-219

Very handy for professionals who main ly do straight sewing (on sheer or soft material, net­ting , etc.).

Spool and B obbin Case- 220

For arranging reels of cotton, bobb ins, th reads, needles, etc., in an orderly way.

ELNAdisc Case- 221

Available for 10 discs. Makes it easier for you to select the disc you require.

Circular Sewing Device-222

For all kinds of circular patterns, large scallops, various combinations, etc. (Obtainable with a scale in centimeters or inches).

Monogram Attachment-226

For embroidering perfect monograms on sheets , towels, table cloth s, napkins, etc.

0>

212 213

216

218 219

220 221

222

226

Minor Disorders Consult th e instruction book

on the pages given below.

The r hread Breaks: 6

~h~ read does nothavea left twist ~ not !lJ readed correctly ; t he

a ~ ~lpoo r quality · 9, 6 The ss of the thread is not suitabl e

for he ki d of material Th needle s not of the system 705 (or

style 15 X 1); it is of poor quality, bent , has not be en inserted co rrectly (the wrong way round or at the wrong height) ; it is not su itable for t he ki nd of material

The machi ne needs cleaning The upper tension is too tight T he Lower T hread Breaks : The thread has not been wound evenly on

the bobbin or it has not been brought up correctly (it does not pass correctly over t he bobbin)

Th e lower tension is too t ig ht T he Mach ine S kips S t itches:

6

6-7 5

13

10,7 13

Th e machin e is not t hreaded correctly 8 to 10 The needle is not of the system 705 (o r

sty le 15 x 1) ; it is of poor quality, bent ,has not been inserted correctly (th e wrong way round or at the wrong heig ht) , it is not suitable f or t he kind of material

The th read is too t hick for the size of the 6-7

needle or it is not flexible enough 7, 6 The needle plate fo r basting and tuckin g

has not been replaced by t he normal need le plate

The S titc hes are Uneven: 5

The mach in e is not threaded correct ly 8 to 10 Th e t hread has not been wound even ly on

th e bobbin or t he bobbin has been placed upside down

The needle is not sui table for t he si ze of th e th read or th e type of material

The th read is of poor quality or of uneven th ickness

The tension devi ces are clo gged or they have not been set correctly

The Mat erial Puckers Up: The upper and/or lower tensions are too

tig ht - The stitch is too lo ng - T he t hread is too t hick The Material is Fed Unevenly or I n­

sufficiently: The needle plate has not been in serted

properly The feed dog is cl ogged with dirt The foot orthe stitch length is not sui tab le

for t he t ype of material The N eed le Breaks: The material has been pu lled during

sew ing and th e needle bends and hits against the fo ot, or t he need le plate

Th e needle is not of the system 705 (o r sty le 15x1 ) ; it is of poor quality, bent, has not been in se rted correct ly (the wrong way roun d or atth ewrong fteigh t) ; it is not su itable f or t he kind of material

7-8

6

6

13

13 .12

6

5 5

32

6-7

6-7

"

and their Remedies T he needle is poorly centred and strikes

against the darning plate T he upper tension is too tight T he Machine Runs S lowly : Th e machi ne has not been oiled for some

time or ELN A oil has not been used The elect ronic f oot cont rol switch is

at .. -"; set it to .. + " T he Mac hine is N oisy: The rotary hook has not been oi led or it is

clogged (with remains of thread or li nt) T he Moto r Runs butthe Machine D oes

Not : T ighten t he coupling kn ob Rem ai ns of T hread or Lint in t he

Rotary Hook : Remove the needle, t he sewing foot, th e

bobbin and the needle plate T ighten the flyw heel co upling knob

fi rmly , t urn t he flywheel back and f orth, a number of ti mes, until the thread tangle has been cut. Clean out t he

• remains of thread . Oi l t he rotary hook and run t he machine wit hout thread for a few seconds

T he ELNAdisc Cannot be Inserted or Remov ed:

Set the st itch wi dth lever and the stitch length knob at position" 0"

T he Ordinary Buttonhole Does Not W ork:

The selection dial is not at position " 1 " Th e needle is not set at th e let t T he stitch width lever is not at t he normal

zigzag position The Automatic Device for Button-

holes Does Not Work: The selection dial is not at position" 1 " Double ELNAdi sc in the ELNAgraph Th e needle is not set at the left The stitch width lever is not set at " but­

ton hole " Set stitch width lever at position " 2 " ,

before sotting stitch length knob at posi tion " A "

Th e stitch length knob is not at pas. " A" An Interchangeable Single D isc Does

Not Work: Th o sel ction dial is not at position " A " Th e stitch width lever is not at the normal

zigzag position The stitch length knob is at positi on " A " A Double Disc Does Not Work : The selection dial is not at pos ition " A " The stitch wid t h lever is not at t he normal

zigzag positi on The stitch length knob is not at pos. " A " The Selection Dial Cannot be Turned: The st itch width lever is not at posit ion "0" The Stitch Width Lever Does Not

Cl ick into Place: The stitch width lever is not at the normal

zigzag positi on The Stitch Width Lever Cannot be

Turned into the B uttonhole Pos ition : The stitch widt h lever is not at position "0"

16 13

5

4

5

7

5

15

19 19

19

24 24 24

24

24 24

14

23 23

14

23 23

14

11

24

e Sewing Thread 0 Feet and ~ ®/ De-Table of Adjustments ~ Plates * P scribed

on pages

S trai ght Sew ing I - Normal sewing sewing - presser 0 1-4

• decentered sewi ng sewing or as desired presser or 0 1-4 darning embroidery

- Normal darn ing darning - darning * 0 0 • on knitwear darning 1 darning

~/ \l~

r.R . '"'"~ .... ~'!~

A

button pl.* 3 0 - Zip fastener sewing - zipper foot 0 1-4

Needle position Sewing w ith A utomatic Stitches ~. For buttons and button- - Buttons sewing or 1 embroidery or according 0

, holes decenter to the left darning special foot to button I - Buttonhole, No-turn sewing 1 buttonhole --- ---->

- Buttonhole, ordinary darning 1 embroidery 2-4-2-4-0 X - Zigzag stitch sewing or 1 presser 2-4 1-4

darning

- Sati n stitch 1 embroidery 1-4 X-j< - Tapered satin stitch 1 embroidery 1-4-1 X-j< - Overcasting 4 presser 2-4 Yo-l - Edge-to-edge sewing 4 presser 3-4 X- j< - Patch ing 4 presser 4 X-j< I

"

Tension - Patching jersey 4 presser 4 X-Yo 18 • All the ordinary types of work - Shel l stitch 3 embroidery 4 1-2 18

can be sewn atthe Universal · - Blind stitch 3 presser 1-4 1-4 18 Tension - Darn ing darning A 151 presser 0 A 25

• If necessary, increase or de- - Su per-zigzag or rickrack embroidery A 141 embroidery 2-4 A 27 crease th e upper tension - Pearl stitch embroidery A 141 embroidery 0 A 27

- Point de Paris darning A 126 embroi dery 2-4 A 27 Needle 120 - T urkish hemstitch darning A 101 embroidery 2-3 A 27

- Venetian hemstitch darning A 140 embroidery 2-3 A 27 - Scallops embroidery A 05 embroidery 2-4 X-Yo 27 - Sewing with twin needle embroidery as desired embroidery 0-3 as dB- 27 Sewing Stretch Fabrics

sired

(Stretch , jersey, tri cot, etc.) - Mult iple stitch zigzag 4 presser 4 X-Yo 18 - " Overlock-type" st raight

stitch overcasting A 149 presser 4 A 25 - Superstretch stitch A 152 presser 4 A 26 - Triple seam A 149 embroidery 0 A 25

• For nylon , gold or silver Sew ing on Nylon th read : - Ordi nary sewing nyl on - presser 0 1-3 -upper tens ion: 0-3 - Darni ng darning nylon - darn ing * 0 0 -lower tension : 0-1. .. Combi" Stitch Patterns

- Decorative stitches as desired as desired embroidery 1-4 A 23, 28

Alphabetic Index

Accessories Adjustments-see Table of Adjustments Automat ic darning

Pages

4 32 25

Bobbin Bobbin Winding Buttonh oles, No-turn Button holes, ordinary

Carrying Case Centering the Needle Cleaning

Disorders

Electricity Electronic foot control Elnadiscs, Single Elnadiscs, Double Elnadiscs, Assortment of Elnadiscs, Use of Elnagraph Extra Accessories

Feet Flywheel Foot Control and Cord

Light Lubricati on

Maintenance

Needle

P ractical Sewing

Rotary Hook

S election Dial Servicing Sewing" Straight Stitches"

" Automatic Stitches "

"Combi-Stit ches " "Practi cal Sewing "

Sewing Surface Starting the Mach i ne Stitch Length Stitch Lengt h Knob St itch T uner Stitch W idth Stitch Widt h Lever

T able of Adj ustm ents Tapered Stit ch Width Thread Threading Thread Tensi on s

7, 8, 10 7

24 19

3 16 5

31

4 4

15, 28 15,28

28 27 11

29, 30

4,6,29,30 7 4

4 5

5

6, 7

17,22,24,25,26

5

11 , 14 2,31

12 See also 14, 23 to 27 Table of Ad- 28 j ustments page 32 17 to 22, 24-26

3 4

11, 12 11 23

11,24 11

32 16

6, 9 8,9,10

13

Universal Pressure of the Foot Unpacking

11 3

13 Upper Ten sion Kn ob

Vi sual Indicator 15

L - 10.71 - Anglai s - U.S.A . - No. 104035-1