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Design Specs Notes By Charlie Owens

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Yoder Cradle Notes and Observations

When I embarked on building a baby cradle for some friends who were expect-

ing their next child, I perused a number of plans and designs. While I found some things I liked about each approach – there wasn’t any one design that en-

compassed all of the things I was looking for. So, I created this design from that

perspective. You might find some ideas you would like to add or make your own variations on this design. I attempted to put in enough detail so that a wood-

worker with basic tools and skills could build this project. I hope you find them complete. It is important to read through the entire plan first and observe the

drawings and pictures to be certain you have a good idea of how the steps come together to completion. I hope you enjoy your project and that the cradle is ap-

preciated by you or for whomever it was built – for many years.

-Charlie Owens, cowensmi@gmail.com

Safety: Here is what I learned from my research on cradle safety: The current Consumer Product Safety Commission guidelines for cribs and cradles recom-

mend no more than a 2 3/8” spacing between the spindles. These plans use a

spacing of 2 inches. I used rectangular pieces with the edges rounded and the ends tapered inward on the outer and inner faces (not the sides) so they were

not flush to the rail edges (the last detail is for aesthetics not safety). So from the inside and outside of the cradle these spindles or slats are straight up and

down the same distance between from top to bottom. Using flat rectangular slats instead of rounded cylindrical spindles avoided the cost of purchasing pre-

fabricated spindles as I do not have any turning equipment to make my own. I

also think they look better. Be sure to securely glue or otherwise attach these rectangular slats-spindles to the top and bottom rails so they do not come loose

and pivot or spin on the dowels in the top and bottom. If you use spindles in-stead, I would be cautious about spindles that are narrow at the tops and wider

at the bottom as they can create a trapping hazard where a little foot or hand

could get wedged. I used clear shellac for the finish as it is non-toxic and does not continue to release VOCs after it is dry – as many petroleum based finishes

are known to do. It is important for the cradle pad to fit snug in the cradle bas-ket with no large gaps or spaces between the sides or ends. There should be no

gap between the cradle and the pad greater than ½ inch. See notes on “size”

for more information. There are differing opinions on when baby is too big for the cradle – time is not a good measure as babies come in different sizes and

grow at different rates. The best advice is to discontinue use of the cradle when your baby can raise up. A cradle is not a crib – any child that can crawl, climb or

stand has no business being in a cradle. Any cradle design should allow you to lock the cradle in a non-swinging position. This one uses a lock pin with a hold-

ing hole to keep the pin when it is not engaged. For obvious reasons, never set

the pin in the cradle while not being used. If you spot something in these plans that might create a hazard – by all means correct it. These plans are not for sale

and I derive no income from their use. User assumes all risks in using them.

Size: I found standard cradle pads to be 18 ½ inches by 36 inches and the cra-

dle is built to accommodate that size pad. I have seen some cradle plans that are 15 X 33 inches – I do not know where the pad for that came from or if it was

custom cut. If you want to make a smaller cradle (I would not recommend any-thing larger) then you can resize the plans as you see fit. If you want to re-draw

these plans using Google sketch-up email me at cowensmi@gmail.com and I will

send you the sketch-up files used to draw these plans so you can modify them. Please don’t ask me to help you with sketch-up – that is a whole other class alto-

gether. I recommend the sketch-up for dummies book and sketch-up help fo-rums. That is how I learned and it is a fabulous program for drawing precise

plans. It is also free – download it from Google.

Wood: You can use any appropriate wood for this project. While I would prefer

to use nothing but solid hardwoods for all pieces – practical considerations di-rected me to use mostly plywood, the rails being the major exception. I will con-

fess that I did this because I wanted to use wood that I had on hand, a high quality birch veneered plywood. However, this does not change any of the steps

or approach – the exception being the application of edge banding veneer to

avoid plywood layers from showing. I used hickory for the rails.

Joinery: I purposely did not provide a lot of joinery advice or detail, often only describing the joinery with the word “attach”. If you are a purest and only want

to use dovetails, mortise and tenon, blind or through dowels – knock yourself out. You can do so with these plans. I used blind dowels and glue on the rails

and slats-spindles and to attach the rails to the cradle end panels. For the rest I

used Kreg pocket screws and glue (not in a pocket hole – just screwed in direct). I counter sunk them in some places in others I did not as I used two types – one

with a rather nice looking square drive washer head where they could be easily removed for disassembly. On the support pieces under the cradle bottom I used

a brad nailer and glue. That’s what I did – do what works for you.

Rocking Mechanism: The idea behind this design is that the cradle basket can

be removed by lifting it straight up off the stand. It is not bolted or attached in a way that requires tools to disassemble it from the stand. Both removing and

replacing the cradle basket is best done with two people at each end. It is im-

portant to be sure the 3/8 inch dowels are fully engaged in the receiving holes so that the cradle basket cannot slip off the ends of the stand. The cross support

between the cradle stand ends (part K) is attached with screws – not glued – so that it can be removed and the stand disassembled for flat storage. If you would

rather attach the cradle basket in a more permanent manner – modify as you see fit. In comments I have researched online about the Rockler pivot hinge

hardware – it seems that the nut working loose or the knurled shaft shifting in its

setting hole are known issues. I recommend setting the nut with two-part epoxy (apply freshly mixed quick-dry epoxy to the threaded shaft and then tighten

down the nut) and also the knurled shaft before you set it in the hole.

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Yoder Cradle Cut List

A = Approximate see drawing MFFF = Measure for Final Fit

Part Description Qty Length Width Thick Notes

A Basket ends 2 24”A 15” ¾ 6 degree slope-fit to rails

B Rails – top 2 36” 1 ½ ¾ Round over when done

C Rails – Bottom 2 36” 1 ½ ¾ 6 degree slope rip cut

D Spindles 24 9 3/8” 1” ¾ Round edges after drilled

E Basket Bottom 1 36” 18 ½” ¼ MFFF

F Basket Supports 2 20” 3 ½ ¾ Round top with others

G Cradle Stand Supports 2 38 ½ 3 ½ ¾ Round top with others

H1 Cradle Stand Feet 2 28 3 ½ ¾ See drawing for shape

H2 Cradle Stand Feet 2 28 3 ½ ¾ See drawing for shape

I Basket Pivot Block 2 5 3 ½ ¾ See drawing for shape

J Stand Pivot Block 2 5 2 ¾ See drawing for shape

K Stand Cross Support 1 40 ½ 3 ½ ¾ MFFF

L Locking Pin 1 Dowel Dowel ½ Custom fit

M Basket Botttom Support 2 36” 1” ¾ Slope Rip Cut MFFF

N Basket Bottom Support 2 16 5/8 1” ¾ Slope end cuts MFFF

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Yoder Cradle Assembly – Observe drawings and photos as you follow these steps

1 Make rails first

2 Cut rail tops and bottoms rip first then crosscut with stop – note width on bottom rail may have to be wider than 1 ½ to cut back to that with 6 degree

slope rip cut on bottom edge. Make this sloped rip cut last after rails and spindles are glued together – otherwise it is difficult to clamp the rails and spindles when the bottom rail outside edge is not square because it was rip cut with a slope first.

3 Cut spindles. Rip first then crosscut with stop. Keep square until holes drilled in each end. Spindles are blind doweled between top and bottom rails.

4 Drill holes in spindle ends for dowels – I used a center dowel jig – ¼ fluted dowels

5 Line up & mark holes in rails. Drill ¼ holes

6 Glue dowels into spindles and cut and round ends of dowels to match proper hole depth in rails– test fit to rails.

7 Shape spindles – use a router with a ¼ round over bit and round edges of spindles

8 Shape spindles – chamfer spindle ends so they set inside rail width – not flush. I did this by rolling them up on a stationary belt sander.

9 Glue up rails and spindles– use tape to prevent glue stains. Steps 10 and 11 are done on entire rail assembly - with the side rails and spindles assem-

bled, glued and dried.

10 Shape top rails. Use a router with a ¼ round over bit and round edges of top rails.

11 Rip cut the 6 degree slope on bottom rails by running the entire assembled rail side through the table saw cutting back to the 1 ½ dimension (as de-

scribed in step 2) – sand to round any sharp edges. Apply finish. Do not apply finish to rail ends where rails will be glued to end panels.

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12 Make basket end panels—Assemble basket

13 Start with square pieces and mark to get proper shape and size – use completed rail assemblies to be sure height of rails matches sloped

sides of end panels. Watch the 20” dimension 1” up from bottom to get width for mattress correct. If using plywood – apply matching edge banding veneer. Sand to smooth and apply finish. Do not apply finish where rails will be glued to end panels. I used tape to keep

finish off.

14 Attach rails to basket end panels – I did this with blind dowels and used ¼” dowels. For a different look you could use a through dowel

approach. Watch dowel depth on rails so you don’t drill into first spindle dowel in rail ends.

15 Cut and shape parts M and N (for 6 degree slope) and fit bottom support pieces per drawing-attach to M to bottom rails C and N to basket

end panels A. I used a brad nailer for this. Wait to attach the middle N support until the bottom E is inserted and attached so you can at-tach it to the bottom E

16 Cut and insert and attach basket bottom E. I used a brad nailer. Measure to fit – sand to smooth

17 Make Cradle Stand – Rocker Mechanism

18 Set table saw for a 3 ½ “ wide rip cut and cut pieces F, G, H1, H2, I and K – rip then crosscut to stop. Make K longer for final fit later.

The H pieces assume two ¾ wide pieces glued together to make the stand feet with dado cuts to form a mortise when they are glued to-gether. You can use 1 ½ stock instead and mortise the hole rather than glue up separate pieces. I used ¾ plywood which is why I did it

this way. Edge band all pieces if you used plywood instead of solid wood. Apply finish to pieces – but not where pieces slide together: inside of notch in I, outside edges of J, where I and F are glued together and where J slides along F to fit.

19 Fabricate I per drawing. Cut part J to fit into slot made in I.

20 Drill 3/8 hole into I per drawing – then use to mark receiving hole in J. I used dowel marking pins for this.

21 Insert and glue 3/8 dowel into I.

22 Drill 3/8” receiving hole into J. Cut and round dowel end to match proper hole depth in J – test fit and adjust I and J for fit.

23 Mark the top square end of I for round off cut per drawing and cut.

24 Using rounded top of one I piece as a template, mark tops of other I piece, F and G and cut the rounded top on all.

25 Stack F, I and G and sand so that all round tops are matched.

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26 Drill and install Rockler pivot pin hardware #51243 in J and G per pivot hinge instructions and drawings and photos.

27 Now with the G and J pieces assembled with the pivot hardware and the F and I pieces taped together as if assembled – test fit these assemblies.

The pivot hinge hardware in J will result in the nut protruding from the surface of J hitting F so that a flush fit cannot be achieved. You will need to cut a channel in F set at the depth necessary for the nut to fit into the channel as the F – I assembly is slid onto the G – J assembly for a flush fit.

See the pictures for this. This can be cut with a router or forstner bit before attaching F and I. Check the fit and then attach I to F per drawing. I used glue and a brad nailer. Double check the fit again after attaching I to F and adjust as necessary. NOTE: I used epoxy to hold the nut on the

pivot hardware and where the knurled end is seated in the hole in G.

28 Center and attach F and I assembly to basket ends per drawing – the I part facing out.

29 Fabricate H foot pieces per drawing. Make the dado cuts in the rectangular pieces first before cutting the shape. Test fit to G – clamp or tape or pin

together to shape - glue halves together checking for fit. Apply edge banding if plywood and the cut out where the veneer covers the mortise holes. Apply finish to foot assemblies. When dry insert G pieces and attach.

30 Set up cradle stand and test for fit and height. I used Jorgensen clamps to keep ends from tipping then set cradle into the fittings. It takes two

people to do this. Check the rocker mechanism for a smooth swinging action.

31 Now measure while assembled for final length of K – cross support

32 Before attaching ends with cross support K, determine locations for lock pin holes in one of the G supports. One to lock and one to hold pin when

not in lock hole. It is easier to drill the lock pin holes into G and F while unassembled.

33 Now attach K for final assembly of cradle support. I used screws so that support assembly could be disassembled for storage when cradle is not

being used.

34 Now hang the cradle basket assembly and check for adjustments

35 Finish any parts if not done already – repair any marks to finished parts made while working on assemblies.

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A

F

I

J

G

H1 H2

K

C

B

D

E

L

Parts list 1

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M N

E

Parts list 2

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Rocker Mechanism Detail

G

F J

I

A

Square tops are rounded with arc points set at 1/2” from top then arc centered on face

I is attached to F J is attached to G with the pivot hinge hardware. J will not be flush with G as shown in this picture but will have a gap from the pivot hinge hardware so it will swivel or rock free of G

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F

Parts Dimensions for F

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When J is joined to G with Pivot Hinge there will be a space or gap approximately 3/16” wide so that J can pivot or swing free of G. Therefore it is recommended that the cradle stand cross support K not be cut until stand is set up with cradle for a test fit and actual distance measured for an exact fit.

G

K

J

Parts Dimensions for K and G

Approximate—measure to fit for final

3 1/2” wide

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Parts Dimensions for H1 and H2

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Basket Detail

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Basket Detail E is 1/4” thick and should be 18 1/2” X 36” to fit a standard cradle mattress

E

A

C

B

D

N

M

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Make side rails first to fit height to rails

Parts Dimensions for A *

*

*These dimensions are shown as measured by Google Sketch-up—the software used to draw these plans and it is not intended to imply that these need to be this precise. The dimensions are irregular because of the sloping sides relative to trying to get the bottom to fit the cradle mattress. I made the rails first and then adjusted these dimensions to ac-commodate the rails and the mattress dimensions.

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Rail Detail

Bottom rails C have a 6 degree slope rip cut on bottom so that when tilted to match 6 degree slope on end panels A the bottom of the bottom rail is parallel to bottom of end panels A

End view

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Bottom supports M have a 6 degree slope rip cut on each side so when attached to bottom rail C they will compensate for the 6 degree tilt of C (rails are tilted 6 degrees to match slope on end panels A).

Bottom cross supports N have a mating 6 degree miter on each end where they are joined to M Side view

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Finished Cradle Basket Cradle Basket with basket supports F attached. Note groove cut in F to accommodate nut from pivot hinge hardware in J.

F

I

One end of stand set up.

G

J

J attached to G with pivot hinge hardware .

End view of I attached to F showing J (before being attached to G) sliding into fit with 3/8” dowel.

I

F

J

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Left: G with J attached with swivel hinge hardware Right: F with I attached. Note groove cut in F to allow nut protruding from J to slide in flush when connecting these two assemblies together.

G

J

F

I

Pictures showing how the rocker as-semblies are con-nected so that the cradle basket can be lifted off the stand. The F and I assembly on the left are attached to each end of the basket and slide straight down onto the J and G cradle stand end assem-bly on the right. The cradle rocks on the pivot hinge assemblies. The 3/8” dowel in I slides into a mat-ing hole in J. This prevents the bas-ket from slipping off the cradle stand ends.

Pivot Hinge—Rocker Mechanism Detail

Rockler Pivot Hinge # 51243

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Cradle stand. Cradle sets down on top of the end assemblies and is removed by pulling straight up.

Finished cradle. Note the locking pin. Here the pin is inserted into a hole used to keep it when not in use so it does not get lost. The upper hole is used to engage the pin to prevent the cradle from rocking. It fits into a mat-ing hole in basket support F.