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WHAT’S O
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WHAT’S O
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Year XXII No. 5 - June 2015Year XXII No. 5 - June 2015
The ORIGINAL magazine of Tuscan cultureGRAPEVINEGRAPEVINE
€ 2€ 2
The ORIGINAL magazine of Tuscan culture
2 - June 2015 GRAPEVINE
EditorialWhile visiting the hill town of Montecarlo last month, I was delighted to discover a beautiful flower, called Protea, in the gardens of the Fondazione Pellegrini Carmignani. This is our cover photograph.
When dinosaurs roamed the earth 95 million years ago, there was one large continent in the Southern hemisphere. It was called Gondwanaland. Here the Protea plant flourished. After Gondwanaland split into five continents (Africa, India, South America, Australia/New Zealand, Antarctica), the Protea continued to survive in these places, diversifying into many varieties. The Protea can even be found in Hawaii (it grows in the lava beds!), along with the Macadamia (a favorite Hawaiian nut), which belongs to the same family.
What does this have to do with Tuscany, you may ask? I think it's a metaphor for Italy's best quality, which is valuing history and appreciating its slow development over time. Let me give you another example, again from Montecarlo.
A few short kilometers from the town center, at the Carmignani Winery (via della Tinaia 7), is an olive tree whose gnarled and thick mossy trunk attests to its age, though it's still strong and bearing fruit. It's been there almost as long as the winery has been in the Carmignani family. And that's a long time, since 1386 – over 600 years. If you consider that the town itself and its castle date to the 1300s, the Carmignani family has definitely been a part of Montecarlo's history. Gino Fuso Carmignani is the head of the wine-growers association. This year he irreverently put out a new wine that he calls “Credevo Peggio” (meaning, I thought it would be worse). Gino's wit is perhaps one family quality that has helped them carry on so long. And I would guess they measure time differently than most of us.
Living here in Italy, we are inspired to think of our connections with the past. We are humbled. So many of our frenetic concerns are fleeting ones, like the clouds in a stormy sky that quickly make way for rays of sunshine.
Everything changes, yet everything remains the same. Human history is dwarfed by natural history, yet linked to it in many ways. While another oil slick sullies the California coastline, it helps to know that nature continues in its slow, steady way.
Maybe we should all slow down and savor this life.
Enjoy your summer!
3-5 July 2015 | 8.30 p.m.Barga, Teatro dei Differenti
CATONE Pasticcio by G.F. Haendel (1732)Music by Leo, Vinci, Hasse, Music by Porpora and Vivaldi
26, 27 June | Barga - Lucca
INAUDITA PROJECT10 world premieresfor flute, sax, violin and celloEnsemble Multilaterale - Paris
28, 29, 30 June - 2, 4 July | Barga
CONCERTS Ensemble Trianon and Roberta Invernizzi
10, 11, 12 July in Barga15, 16, 18, 19 July in Bagnone (MS)
MUSICA NEI BORGHI PROJECT Ensemble le Musiche with Simone BernardiniChamber Music
Booking and information: tel. 0583 711068 | email: [email protected] | www.operabarga.it
Comune di Barga
t
ContentsDirettore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani
Founded (1994) by Susan Jarman
EditorsNorma Jean BishopSilvano Simi
ContributorsHelen AskhamAnna BenedettoNorma Jean BishopClaudia CasoliChiara CalabreseMartha ClarkeDavid CollinsRuggero di Palma CastiglioneJudith EdwardsDebra KolkkaSimone LippiFrancis PettittElisabeth PlessenJenny SchutzPaul SpadoniMaria TuttovinoKaren Vander
Cover:
Proteaprehistoric flower in the garden of the Fondazione Pellegrini Carmignani (Montecarlo)
by Grapevine
GRAPEVINE June 2015 - 3
2015June
Grapevine Magazine. Via delle Conce 25 - Porta S. Donato, Lucca (parking Piazzale Verdi). Mail/Admin: Via Francesconi 2, S. Ginese di Compito 55012 Lucca, Italy - Tel. 0583 909012 - Fax 0583 908849 - Mobile 333 8617962 - Skype: susan.jarman.rosalind - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com Printed by Myck Press srl Calcinaia (PI). Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca no. 629 del 13 dicembre 1994 Iscrizione CCIAA - Lucca no. 199169. Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the editors. © Grapevine Magazine - © What’s On In & AroundThe listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editors or of the Direttore Responsabile.
Chef Paolo Monti's Cooking School,highly rated on Tripadvisor.
for food lovers and professionals alike! Daily cooking classes, fresh pasta and
sauces, fish and seafood, Tuscan class, risotto, pizza, focaccia,
Chef Paolo's favorite dishes. Classes are hands-on, taught in a relaxed fun atmosphere. Participants cook most
dishes themselves, then enjoy these with plenty of wine and home made liqueurs.
Monday to Sunday 10am to 2.30pm. Afternoon classes upon request.Info: www.cucina-italiana.com
Via di Sant'Alessio no. 3684, LuccaTel 0583 329970 338 6718641
-------------------------------------
Chef Paolo Monti's Restaurant La Cantina Di Carignano
Open every day for lunch and dinner.Typical Tuscan trattoria with local specialties: zuppa di farro, tordelli lucchesi, wild boar pasta, porcini, asparagus and artichokes. Specialties from the charcoal grill: Bistecca alla Fiorentina
(T.Bone steak), lamb and mixed grill.
Specialized in seafood dishes,with fresh fish every day!
Try Chef Paolo Monti's Tasting menus4 special menus prepared by Chef Paolo Monti
for you. Special Dinner with demo in the cooking class kitchen, by reservation only.
[email protected] ---------------------------------------------
Chef Paolo Monti's Tuscan Sun Apartments
In the green of the Lucca countryside, 10 minutes from the center attached to the cooking school, four newly remodelled Tuscan style apartments, with terracotta tiles on the floor, wooden beams on the ceiling, wrought iron beds, cooking facilities … but with modern
comforts such as private bathroom, telephone, air-con, free Wi-Fi, 32” flat screen TV.Info: www.tuscansunapartments.com
Via di Sant'alessio n 3684, Luccatel 0583 329970
Art/Music/Books/BeautyHappy 150th Birthday, W. B.Yeats, Italophile 5Lucca Richezze e Bellezza (book review) 6Irish Eyes in Lucca 6Peter Zadek 7Anfiteatro Jazz! 10David Douglas Duncan, Picasso's Friend 25
Tradition/HistoryD'Annunzio and the Versilia 4A Different Way to Enjoy Pisa 8
Food and DrinkCremeria Opera 24
Day TrippingVinci 21
House & GardenContainer Gardening 22
Practical A Damp Holiday Home 20
Bilingual Crossword 19
Classified Advertising 26
June Events 11-18
Markets, Museums & Monuments, VenuesWhat's On: Music, Art & ExhibitionsTraditions, Sagras, Sports, Children, Cinema, Conferences
Gabriele D'Annunzio was one of the most striking and famous personalities at the beginning of the last century, not only in
Italy but also in Europe. As a playwright he was known in England, since most of his plays were translated into English. As a nov-elist he enjoyed great success in Italy and still ranks as a major author. Most of his nov-els were translated into English. Italians also associate D'Annunzio with his major role as an advocate of Italian intervention on the side of the Allies in World War I and with his direct participation – at the end of World War I – in the issue of Italy's claims on Fiume and Dalmatia.
But it is mainly as a poet that D'Annunzio deserves to be remembered, above all for Alcione. To quote from the Encyclopedia Britannica, Alcione may be called the best Italian book of poems since Leopardi's Canti. In most of the Alcione poems, the landscape is the Versil ia, which D'Annunzio poetically identifies with Hel-las and fills with Greek mythology. Although historically Versilia was just a small area around Pietrasanta, D'Annunzio thought of it as a much larger area, namely the whole coastline between the rivers Arno and Magra, which almost coincides with its present meaning.
D'Annunzio fell in love with the coast of Tuscany before the turn of the century. In 1896 he spent the summer in San Rossore with his lover, the great actress Eleonora Duse. In 1900 and 1901 he stayed at Il Secco immediately north of Viareggio, where the first poems of Alcione were writ-ten. He was by then so engrossed with the Versilia that he did not even need to stay there to complete the poems. They were
completed in 1902 near Florence, and pub-lished in 1903.
Three years later D'Annunzio spent the summer of 1906 at Marina di Pietrasanta, in the villa called La Versiliana. This is the only residence of D'Annunzio on the Tus-can coast which is easily identified. La Versiliana is now used throughout the year as a cultural centre and in the summer per-formances are held in the fine open-air thea-tre there.
While at La Versiliana D'Annunzio started working on an opera with Puccini, La Rosa di Cipro, which never saw light. D'Annunzio took great delight in riding on the beach, surrounded by a dozen or more excited greyhounds. His arrogance made him ignore the few bathers, who com-
plained until the municipal authorities attempted (in vain, of course) to enforce a regulation forbidding horse-riding on the beach.
The coast was completely different then from now. Viareggio was a quarter its pres-ent size. North of the city, the sandy beach was one with dunes and woods, where a few “pioneers” had built their summer resi-dence almost in the wilderness. In Alcione the landscape from the Arno to the Apuane, is described in great detail, although ficti-tious names are occasionally used (there is no Monte Pellegrino in the Apuane), and it is exciting for anybody living in the area to recognize places and villages mentioned in the poems.
D'Annunzio revered Shelley, whom he commemorated in a ceremony in Viareggio in 1903. Having no English, he discovered and read Shelley in a French translation. When on the coast, D'Annunzio moved around very little. Although he was so close, he seldom visited Lucca. In Septem-ber 1900, he attended an important perfor-mance of Tosca at the Teatro del Giglio, where Puccini was also present. Expecting to be asked, D'Annunzio had prepared a speech, but there is no trace of its having been delivered.
D'Annunzio's association with Versilia probably contributed to making Viareggio a fashionable seaside resort At the turn of the century the first bathing suits were being shown off in Livorno rather than in Viareggio, but by the twenties Viareggio with the whole Versilia had established itself as one of the major bathing resorts in Italy.
– by Ruggero di Palma Castiglionefrom the Grapevine Archives, June 2001
D'Annunzio and the Versilia(Re-published while recalling this year's 100th Anniversary of the First World War)
4 - June 2015 GRAPEVINE
Casa Silvanna - Guide price €390,000This detached house is situated in the ancient and picturesque hillside village of Petrognano around 25 minutes to the east of Lucca. Laid out over three floors, the house measures about 124 sqm. The restoration has preserved many delightful original features of the house, including beautifully patterned tile floors and decorative friezes adorning the walls and ceilings in some of the rooms. There is the possibility to build a pool in the surrounding garden, which extends into an olive grove. Energy classification G - 266.933/kWh/smq year.
Happy 150th Birthday, William Butler Yeats, Italophile
O chestnut tree, great-rooted blossomer,Are you the leaf, the blossom or the bole?O body swayed to music, O brightening glance,How can we know the dancer from the dance?
illiam Butler Yeats was born in Ireland on 13 June
W 1865. He died at Cap Martin, France, in 1938 and was buried in Roquebrune. His coffin was subse-quently disinterred and taken to Ireland in 1948.
If we rewind the tape here, the presence of Italian culture in Yeats' life dates back to his youth. As a painting student he came across the names of great Italian artists, who are mentioned both in his early prose writings and in his poetry. The most influential from the point of view of Yeats' works was certainly Michelangelo, whose magnifi-cent statues were a huge source of inspiration. His poetry too (see my Grapevine article, April 2015) caught Yeats' attention.
During the first period of Yeats' work, from the late 1890s to 1907, when his poetry had a dreamy romantic quality, he was a member of the pre-Raphaelite movement, which concerned itself with work that predated the Renaissance. From this contact Yeats derived his interest in the symbolism of numbers, and recurring cycles. Then in 1907 he visited Italy. Immediately following World War I in the 1920s he discovered Vico and his poetry at this point took a more realistic turn. The final phase of his creative life, which synthesised dreams and reality, coincided with a further interest in Italian literature.
In 1928 Yeats moved to Rapallo, which lies on the coast, 133 km north of Lucca. He wanted to escape the rigours of the English win-ter, and he had a long-term rental there alongside Ezra Pound's own house. They spent long evenings and days discussing 'everything' – and it was at this time that Ezra Pound fully embraced the dodgy pol-itics (he loved Mussolini and supported Hitler) which served to tar-nish his reputation. It was here that Yeats published his poetry col-lections The Tower (1928) and The Winding Stair (1933).
Yeats loved Rapallo and it's not difficult to see why. With its bright-blue changing cabins, palm-fringed beach and diminutive 16th-century castle perched above the sea (now hosting temporary art exhibitions), the town still has a refined and nostalgic air. This despite the fact that Roy Foster, Yeats' biographer, found it to be an inescapably bourgeois place. But go and see for yourself. Rapallo's compactness gives it a less elite atmosphere than its jet-
set neighbours. It's at its busiest on Thursdays, when market stalls fill the central square, Piazza Cile.
W. H. Auden wrote a poem in memory of William Butler Yeats, saying, The day of his death was a cold dark day. Auden also said, You were silly like us: Your gift survived it all.
Yeats was a politician as well as a poet, a dramatist, a self-dramatist and poseur, often extremely self-absorbed. Should you be interested, I wrote a chapter called The Elusive Pursuit of Insight: Three poems of WBY and the human task which was published in a Tavistock book about poetry, entitled Acquainted with the Night.
Since this month is the anniversary of the birth of such a great poet, let's raise a glass to him, the man who said he was looking for a personal quality of universal meaning in act and thought. And why not visit Rapallo too?
– by Judith [email protected]
www.cansurviving.com
photo from www.poetryrepublic.com
photo by Debra Kolkka
GRAPEVINE June 2015 - 5
RISTORANTE - PIZZERIA - INSALATERIA Newly renovated, friendly, spacious & airy....
Little Maggie will be waiting for you!Choice
of indoor
or outdoor dining
Menù Puccini
Antipasto
Lardo - Cannellini
Polenta e funghi/
Primo
Tortelli Lucchesi
Secondo
Coniglio con olive
Dessert
Buccellato con vin santo
Vino, Acqua e Caffè & Biadina del
Maestro
Via degli Angeli 13 - Lucca Centro Storicojust off Via Fillungo between Torre delle Ore & the Amphitheatre
For reservations, please call 0583 91042. www.anticosigillo.it
TRADITIONAL LUCCA CUISINE
A la carte & fixed price menus Consider the “ Menu Puccini “
Continuous hours 11.30am to 10.30pm
Open every day in summer
Martha Clarke is a photographer of European fine art landscapes and seascapes who recently moved from West Cork, Ireland to Lucca. Currently expanding her range of Tuscan photo images, Martha spends much of her time out and about taking photos of
Tuscany in general and Lucca in particular. She is working on expanding her range of floral images, which will be a major addition to her website.
Martha's work is available exclusively in Lucca through the Gio Art Gallery, just behind the l'Anfiteatro. Do go in and have a look. Her Wild Atlantic Way col-lection is unique to Italy, as it features stunningly iconic images of Ireland's new Atlantic Coastal Drive.
Now based in Lucca, Martha is delighted to share her passion for photography and love of opera with all those who share a similar passion. She is currently running an opera tour to the Torre del Lago Puccini Festival from 27 to 31 August 2015. Guests will stay at the tranquil and serene La Boheme guesthouse in the centre of Lucca, just five minutes walk from Puccini's birthplace.
The Puccini tour will include visits to Torre del Lago, Torre Guinigi, Puccini's birthplace, and a choice of either one or two nights at the opera. The tour also includes a Tuscan wine tasting afternoon and pre-opera dinner, along with transfers to and from the opera. Martha is an experienced tour guide who speaks fluent Italian, English, French and German.
Martha Clarke Images – Puccini Opera Tour
27 to 31 August 2015. 10% discount
for booking before 15 June. For further information: http://www.marthaclarke
images.com/photo-tours.html or send an email at
[email protected] Tel. +39 346 279 5048
Irish Eyes in Lucca
Giovanni Padroni's book, Lucca Richezze e Bellezza, published by Maria Pacini Fazzi this year, is a collection of images of Lucca sure to delight lovers of this idiosyncratic town. Inside Lucca's walls are winding streets traced with shadows, lines of sunlight and mystery. The town preserves its ancient heritage
while welcoming new traditions such as Lucca Comics and Games and the Lucca Summer Festival. Although Padroni focuses primarily on the city's ancient charms, he also offers intriguing images of Lucca as seen through the eyes of its younger residents and visitors, the beauties of Lucca seen through the eye of its beholders.
In a press conference held by the Fondazione Banca del Monte on 6 May, special guest and witty art critic Vittorio Sgarbi noted that the book contains several images of lovely blondes (personally I would call them Bellezze Botticelliane) and intriguing, fleeting shadows that appear as clouds pass over the city. The walls have preserved Lucca's ancient con-servatism and mysterious riches, measured both materially and ideally.
Brief texts in Italian describe the contents, but this is primarily a book of images, or as we sometimes say in English, a “coffee table book”. This would make a perfect gift for any lover of Lucca, and is available directly from the editors at a discounted price of €15.60 (www.pacinieditore.it).
Gio Art Gallery via Mordini 58
open daily 10.30 am to 7 pm (shipping world-wide)
http://www.gio-art.it/
6 - June 2015 GRAPEVINE
PORTRAITS & LANDSCAPES, ALSO ON COMMISSION
Laboratory of Artistic Ceramics
Piazza del Collegio, 7 - 55100 [email protected] - www.concretalab.it
Dire
ct Sa
les
Peter Zadek,His Love for Theatre and for a place called Vecoli
Elisabeth Plessen and Peter Zadek, photo by Enno Kaufhold
Men will always make theatre, because they will always represent the stories of their lives. The only way to overcome the authentic moments of fear of life is to reproduce them. And this is true whether one replicates Death or something amusing or a love story. The metamorphosis of reality into fiction is what the theatre knows how to bring about.
– Peter Zadek
In the 70s when Peter was looking for a peaceful place to rest before preparing a new production, a Jewish-Polish friend, a refugee who was living in London like Peter, called his atten-tion to Vecoli. Peter had already loved Lucca for many years
and in the 80s took me to a lovely villa in Vecoli for the first time, saying, One day I want this house to be mine. Like him, I fell in love at first sight with the villa and its gardens and told him, I'll help you. Two years later we moved to Vecoli and since then this beautiful place in the hills of Lucca has become our buen retiro, the place where the two of us could finally be alone after months of stressful work in the theatre.
Usually we came to Vecoli and it was during these summers that the house was often filled with people and became a real workshop of ideas and deeds. An important idea was born in 1992 when the future directors of the Berliner Ensemble, the theatre founded by Bertolt Brecht, camped with us, one in each room and even in my study. No one wanted to leave the villa to stay in Lucca. These future directors, Heiner Müller, Matthias Langhoff, Peter Palitzsch, Fritz Marquardt (the famous great old man of the Ex-DDR theatre) and Ivan Nagel stayed with us and I fed them all!
During this summer, Nagel formulated the idea of having five co-directors for the Berliner Ensemble to revitalize it after the fall of East Germany when no German director wanted to associate him-self with the Ensemble. Not even a director in the nest of the Stasi, the Staatssicherheit, was willing. This period of collapse and reuni-fication was a period of great uncertainty for East Germany and Peter became a co-director of the Berliner Ensemble, bringing to it the new and dynamic ideas of the West. He, along with the other directors, charted a new course for the Berliner Ensemble.
Since the 80s, during the summers our villa was converted into an almost visible, physical workshop for the preparation of new pro-ductions, beginning with the stage, scenography, costumes, dramaturgy. All this can be seen step by step in the exhibit (until 2 June) at the Fondazione Banca del Monte (Piazza San Martino, 12). While the complex procedure and subtle interpolations of fantasy by a giant and monster of the theatre such as Peter Zadek cannot pos-sibly be seen in total in any exhibit, there is much to see and appreci-ate in this one.
The exhibit includes Karl Kneidl’s process for his scenography of Twelfth Night, or What You Will. Step by step we see the scenogra-phy evolve, a process that goes from the first representation of the Shakespearean play in 1601 at Whitehall in the presence of Elizabeth I to his scenic solution of 150 chairs, of which 5 are exposed on the third level. They are very light, and also at a good price, because even Ikea chairs were too heavy and too expensive to be purchased in this quantity. Also shown is the fantastic, mannerist Shakespearean world of A Winter's Tale by the scenographer Daniel Spoerri. This installation is by Gisela Scheidler, who was then the
rehearsal photographer at the Hamburg State Theatre, which pro-duced this play, in part from her own original point of view.
Also on display from the book Peter Zadek e i suoi scenografi is a hand-written letter from Peter, rare because Peter preferred to tele-phone. The letter was written at Vecoli in 1983, to his scenographer, the Berlin painter Johannes Grützke. It shows Peter's ideas for the character of Figaro in Mozart's Le Nozze di Figaro, which was represented at the Stuttgart Lyric Opera. In fact Figaro was his barber in Piazza Cittadella, here in Lucca: a man with a bit of a stomach, not much hair, and a warm heart.
For Peter the most important part of his preparation was assign-ing the roles. Peter's sense of realism on the stage meant he did not rely on habit but instead chose his actors carefully. It was the first step, in medias res, because Peter believed theatre was, above all, the projection of an idea. He said quite clearly: An actor interests me only if in some way he manages to incarnate my idea of the char-acter. And therefore, or by necessity, the actors became his main family. Without them he felt lost.
The main partner, if not the protagonist, was the scenographer of the play. For Peter coming to a definitive style meant death – that is, the end of creativity, the end of fantasy. He refused this moment, until the end of his life. In this way his fear and at the same time his enormous curiosity worked as stimuli.
Vecoli was, as in a compass, the fixed leg of our nomadic life. The other leg was always suspended in air between theatre and theatre, city and city. Vecoli was our hortus conclusus, place of quiet. This life was sometimes very difficult for me. When Peter finished the produc-tion he packed his bags once again, but I could not do that so easily. I am an author and a book is not written in 3 or 6 months. So we would argue. It is the vice of great directors, their professional deformation, their always wanting company to prevent boredom. But even our arguments on this point were a positive ferment in our life together, the life of love and the life of work.
When Alberto Del Carlo saw my book in German about Peter and his stage designers he quickly fell in love with this volume. From Simonetta Adorni Braccesi came the idea of an exhibit and of publish-ing the two books in Italian: Peter Zadek e i sui scenografi about his scenographers and Sogno un teatro che dia coraggio (I dream of a theatre that gives courage) about our life in Lucca, both of these pub-lished by Maria Pacini Fazzi editore.
Peter always felt he was an interpreter, not an original creator as the directors of today often see themselves. He was driven by admi-ration and love, certainly for the authors, but above all admiration and love for the actors, his beloved family with members that alter-nated from time to time.
Vecoli was the only place where he wanted, in my company, always to return.
– by Elisabeth Plessen
GRAPEVINE June 2015 - 7
Pisa's greatest attraction is also its greatest misfortune. The leaning tower attracts busloads of tourists, many from Mediterranean cruises landing at Livorno (who, instead of seeing that city as a highly interesting exam-
ple of a Medicean port dating back to the sixteenth century, avoid it), who are whisked to the Piazza dei Miracoli to take the statu-tory shot of the illusion of holding up the tower and then (if lucky) move on to Florence. Otherwise, equally quickly, they are whisked back to their cruise liner.
The fact is that, although the famous piazza is without doubt one of the world's great sights, there are many smaller miracoli to be seen in Pisa, not least of which is the lively street scene and the greater openness of its people when compared with the more enclosed character of their neighbours in Lucca.
Recently we had occasion to go to Pisa to meet relatives at the airport and decided to make a day of it. First stop was the Royal Palace, a national museum which, again, is exceedingly neglected in favour of the better known Museo San Matteo.
Dating back to 1583, when Tuscan grand duke Francis I decided to build a lovely new palace overlooking the Arno, the Royal Palace was designed by Buontalenti, who also had a big hand in designing the Pitti Palace gardens in Florence.
For the two hours we were there admiring its rooms, fine arms collection, paintings (including a Bronzino, a Breughel and even a Raphael), fabulous tapestries from the Geubels factory in Brussels, furniture, exquisite dresses dating back to Renaissance times, intimate miniatures and sculptures, we actually had the place to ourselves and were left quite alone to enjoy its wonders.
I was particularly impressed by a collection of Japanese ceramics about which I am sure a fellow blogger at http://sequinsandcherryblossom.com/ will have something to say. There were also some fine modern paintings.
We had a great meal at a restaurant recommended to us by a young member of the museum staff. At Stelio's in nearby Piazza Dante we ate beautifully and simply cooked food complete with wine, cover and the addition of a local troubadour, for around ten euros a head.
Stelio's has been here for fifty years and is a veritable Pisan institution. Stelio himself is now eighty and his two sons show every wish to carry on with the business. The restaurant was filled with every conceivable type of client. Apart from us brits, there were students, workers, retired, office workers and uni-versity profs (the university is what gives Pisa its zesty life). Eat-ing there seemed like something out of Bohemian life, as it genu-inely was.
After the meal the sun came out and our intention to visit the museum of calculating machines (Museo degli Strumenti per il Calcolo, created by the Galileo Galilei Foundation, via San Nicola Pisano 25) didn't quite work out as we were waylaid by the lovely botanical gardens which, happily, were not badly damaged by the recent great storm.
Pisa's botanical gardens were created by Cosimo I de' Medici and developed by the great botanist, Luca Ghini. Founded in 1543, they are the oldest botanical gardens in the world and the first to be connected to a university.
The magical gardens revealed some wonderful plants, includ-ing a 200-year old magnolia, that living fossil of the Gingko Biloba tree. And there was much more, including a huge yew tree
A Different Way to Enjoy PisaThis month is when Pisa celebrates its most famous historical events, with boat races on the Arno, a medieval tug of war on one of its bridges, processions at the Piazza dei Miracoli and much more. Still, if you take the time to slowly explore Pisa, you will discover other less famous treasures.
8 - June 2015 GRAPEVINE
(or tree of death as they call it here in Italy, where it is very rare), an astonishing Australian araucaria, native of Queensland with a huge trunk and very prickly leaves, a lovely pond and much, much more.
The view of Pisa's leaning tower from i giardini botanici was transcendental, growing out of the gardens like the most exotic plant. And, again, we had the whole place to ourselves!
Then it was time to head to the airport to collect our guests. We were so glad we made a day of it in Pisa instead of doing the usual shuttle service tour to the airport from home and back. We would have otherwise missed so much of this truly life-enhancing city.
– by Francis PettittYou can follow Francis' blog at http://longoio2.wordpress.com
Pisa’s 2009 Victory, from the Grapevine article (June 2009)
about Pisa’s historical re-enactments celebrated in mid-June.
photo by Fabio Muzzi
ARAUCARIA BIDWILLI Hooker
10 - June 2015 GRAPEVINE
!
JAZZ
We are now at the third season of the 'reborn' Anfiteatro Jazz
Festival, the Jazz 'musics' festival organized by the Commune of Lucca, with Renzo Cresti as artistic director. From June 6 to June 13, every night at 9.15
pm, the festival will bring the great names of the national and international musical panorama to Piazza Anfiteatro. The entrance is free to all concerts. Spanning many genres, from traditional blues and tango to funky music, the festival is a cross-cultural cornucopia. It therefore promises to be a truly unique experience.
On June 6 at 6.30 pm the Monni Bostick Band will announce the opening of the festival. Walking and playing from Piazza Cittadella through Piazza S. Michele and along Via Fillungo, the street band will reach Piazza Anfiteatro,
where it will give a concert at 9.15 pm. The next day, June 7, the Tom Kirkpatrik Quartet will pay an Homage to Gerry Mulligan and Chet Baker. On June 8 the
Supergruppo di Lucca, led by Giangi Zucchini with special guest Antonello Vannucchi at the vibraphone, will perform some memorable Frank Sinatra's songs and the greatest standards.
Then we will go From Gospel to the Beatles with the Jubilum Jazz Chorus on June 9, and From Tango to Frank Zappa with SuperQuartet on June 10. Giacomo Puccini will be the special guest
when Trio in Opera present From Puccini to Jazz on June 11, and X-Jam and Friends will present Singin' the Divas … and Puccini on June 12, a programme in which Puccini will be revisited together
with the immortal songs of blues, jazz and rock divas. June 13 is the grand finale with Sex FM A tutto Funk! This exceptional group, beloved by young people, will close the festival with a funky music night.
Their danceable, irresistible rhythm will compel all of us to dance!
– by Chiara Calabrese
Anfiteatro
closed Sunday eveningand Monday
Via della Cervia - LUCCATel. 0583 55881
Fax 0583 312199www.bucadisantantonio.it
See
for total hair care
Shampoo and dry € 17.00Cut €13.00/20.00Colour €28.00Manicure €14.00Hair drying self-service €5.00
Hours Monday 13.30 to 18.00Tuesday to Saturday 8.30 to 18.30
Piazza San Frediano 3 - LuccaTel/fax 0583 467375
Your Satisfaction is Our Pleasure/
Via del Ponte Guasperini, 873S. Lorenzo a Vaccoli 55100 Lucca
tel +39 0583 370101 fax +39 0583 [email protected]
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Altitude: 243 ++
June 2015 GRAPEVINE
fold-out
events calendar
MarketsGeneral marketsLucca, Via Bacchettoni Wed & Sat a.m.Lucca, Piazza S. Francesco 2nd Sunday of month.Lucca, Piazza del Carmine Monday to SaturdayB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m.S. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m.Ponte a Moriano Tues a.m.S. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m.Pietrasanta Thurs a.m.Marina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m.Tonfano Sat a.m.Castelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m.Pescia Sat a.m.
Books and prints
Lucca, Corte del Biancone Daily
Antiques
Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday
Altopascio 2nd Sunday
Montecarlo 2nd Sunday
Forte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday
Pietrasanta 1st Sunday
Barga 2nd Sunday
Viareggio 4th Sat/Sunday
Bientina 4th Sat/Sunday
Pescia 4th Sunday
Querceta Saturday mornings
Arts & Craft
Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/Sunday
Marina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoons
Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the month
Pieve Fosciana last Sunday
Plants and flowers
Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday mornings
Pietrasanta 3rd Sunday
WHAT’S ONWHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDIN & AROUND
PISA
Piazza dei Miracoli:Leaning Tower, March to October 9am to 7pm, November to February 9.30am to 5pm. April to September 8.30am to 8.30pm. Night visits from 14 June to 15 September, 8.30pm to 11pm. €15. Take the shuttle bus A from Central Station. 050 910789. Cathedral, Fall, spring, summer 8am to 8pm. €2. Winter 10am to 12.45 pm, 3pm to 4.45 pm weekdays, 3pm to 4.45pm Sundays/holidays. 050 560547. Baptistry, The biggest in Italy, built in 1153 by Diotisalvi with works by Nicola Pisano. March to October 9am to 6.30pm. €5 (reduced €2). Winter 10am to 4.30pm. 050 560547. Monumental cemetery, Etruscan, Latin, Medieval. March to October 9am to 6.30pm. Winter 10am to 4.30pm. €5 (reduced €2). Royal Palace Museum, Lungarno A. Pacinotti. 050 926511.Botanical Garden, Via Luca Ghini 5. Dating from Cosimo de’ Medici (1544), attached to the University of Pisa. 050 2211316.Jewish Cemetery, Via Palestro, near Piazza dei Miracoli, dating to 1648, one of the oldest Hebrew cemeteries in Europe. Piazza dei Cavalieri, Re-designed by Giorgio Vasari in the 16th century according to the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici, seat of the Knights of St. Stephen and the Scuola Normale. One of the towers contains the jail of Count Ugolino, as recalled by Dante in the Inferno. Palazzo Blu, Lungarno Gambacorti 9. Free admission. Tuesdays to Fridays 10am to 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am to 8pm. 050 500197. Museo San Matteo in Soarta, Lungarno Mediceo. €8 (students 18 to 25 €4). 050 541865.Wall by American artist Keith Haring (1958-1990) entitled Tuttomondo, at the Sant'Antonio Convent near Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. A metaphor for peace and harmony in the world. Museo Piaggio Viale R. Piaggio 7, Pontedera (Pisa). Tues to Fri 10am to 6pm, Sat 10am-1pm, 2pm- 6pm. 0587 27171, [email protected]
LUCCA
Museum of the Risorgimento, Palazzo Ducale. 0583 417483.San Francesco Complex, Piazza S. Francesco. 1 April to 31 Oct., Sat-Sun 10am to 7pm. 1 Nov. to 31 March, Sat-Sun 10am to 5pm.Santa Caterina Church, Mon-Fri 4pm-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-1pm, 3pm-6pm Paolo Cresci Museum for the History of Italian Emigration. Via Vittorio Emanuele 3. Oct. to Apr. 9.30am to12.30pm, 2.30am to 5.30pm. May to Sept. 10am to 12.30pm, 3pm to 6.30pm. www.fondazionepaolocresci.itLu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. 0583 571712, www.luccamuseum.com Domus Romana Lucca, Via C. Battisti 15. Longobard archaeological site (1000 B.C.) 0583 050060, www.domusromanalucca.it Villa Guinigi, Via Quarquonia. €4 (free under 18 and over 65). Tuesday to Saturday 8.30am to 7.30p Sunday 8.30am to 1pm. 0583 496033.Torre Guinigi, Via Sant'Andrea 45. €3.50. June-Sept. 9am- midnight. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. €4 (reduced €2). Tuesdays to Saturdays 8.30am to 7.30pm. 0583 583461, 0583 55570. Puccini's Birthplace, Corte San Lorenzo 9. €7 (reduced €5, free under 10). April to October 10am to 6pm. Closed Tuesdays. 0583 584028. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. €4 (reduced €2.50). Mar. 8 to Nov. 2, 10am to 6pm. Winter, 10am to 2pm, weekends 10am to 5pm. 0583 490530. Palazzo Pfanner, Via degli Asili 33. Gardens. 0583 954029. Palazzo Ducale, Cortile Carrara. Provincial offices, historic rooms and Cresci Foundation for Italian Emigration. 0583 417363. Museum of the Liberation (1940-1943), Palazzo Guinigi, Via Sant'Andrea 43. www.museodellaliberazionelucca.itFondazione Ragghianti, Via San Micheletto 3. Art library, galleries, conference rooms, ancient cloister with gardens. 0583 467205Botanical Garden, Via del Giardino Botanico 14. Open week days 9.30am to 12.30am, from July to 16 Sept. 10am to 7pm. 0583 442160.
Museums & Monuments
GR
AP
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INE
Cromon e la libertà ritrovata An operetta for UNICEF - Teatro del Giglio, Lucca, 28 April 2015 Schools participating: Il Girasole, D. Alighieri, G. Carducci, with instructors from Sinfonia School of Music
Florence 90km
Montecarlo 20km
Montecatini Terme
Porcari
Capannori
Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito
Altopascio
Viareggio32km
Massa Carrara
Forte dei Marmi
Pietrasanta
Sant’Anna di Stazzema
Camaiore
Corsanico (Massarosa)
Tonfano
Torre del Lago
San Rossore Park
PISA26km
Vorno
Gattaiola
San Giuliano Terme
Abetone
Celle dei Puccini(Pescaglia)
Benabbio
Villa Basilica
Pieve a Elici
Tofori
Prato
50
Ponte aMoriano
Camigliano
Barga
Castelnuovo Garfagnana
Bagni di Lucca26km
Lucca:
1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone. 0584 46477 www.ticketone.it
2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches. www.puccinielasualucca.com
www. sagramusicalelucchese.com3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo
Custode, Via degli Angeli Custodi. www.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com
4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML, Lucca In Musica. 0583 469960, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it
5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, closed Mondays and Sundays, www.teatrodelgiglo.com
5b. Teatro San Girolamo, www.teatrodelgiglio.com
6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza Del
Suffragio, www.boccherini.it8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco9. San Michele Church, Pza San Michele10. San Paolino Church, Via San Paolino11. San Romano Auditorium12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace,
museum. 15. Botanical Garden concerts,
www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160.16. San Martino (Duomo) 17. Amphitheatre Jazz,
www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See article in June Grapevine.
18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino
Outside Lucca:
20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 52721. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa
Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67,
Vorno. 0583 971125, www.delloscompiglio.org
25. Ponte a Moriano a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti,
0583 465320. b. Accademia Montegral, Convento
dell'Angelo, 0583 406300.26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini
Museum.27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival,
Gemignani Music School.28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito,
Compitese Culture Centre.29. Camigliano (Capannori)30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via
Roma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ [email protected] (320 6320032)
31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Differenti.
31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, [email protected], www.operabarga.it
31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, [email protected], www.bargajazz.it
31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, [email protected] www.belcantoinbarga.com
31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691.33a. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music
Festival, www.iamitalia.com 33b. Teatro Alfieri, Castelnuovo G., 0583 644185.
34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 050 941152, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it
35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it, 050 941111 or 050 94118836.
36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA). www.opapisa.it See page17.
37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. www.operadifirenze.it
38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99. www.teatroverdionline.it
39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo Spirito www.accademiadelispiritati.org40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival,
0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.org41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’ Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano. 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML concerts,
0583 469960, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it
44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival. www.corsanicomusica.it
45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin
16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757, Complete program www.laversilianafestival.it
47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc. Pugnano). Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to Sundays 4pm to 8pm. 050 817900, www.fondazionecerratell.it
48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music Festival, at the Terme & Teatro Verdi. Until 4 Oct. 0527 78903, www.estateregina.it
49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.it
50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.
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Music & Theatre Venues
Via S. PaolinoVia S. Croce Via Elisa
Via Fillu
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Music & TheatreJune 2015 GRAPEVINE WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND GRAPEVIN
Tonfano
Florence 90km
Prato
Capannori
San Gennaro
Viareggio32km
Massa Carrara
Forte dei Marmi
Pietrasanta
Seravezza
Camaiore
Abetone
Barga
Ponte a Moriano
Castelnuovo Garfagnana
Bagni di Lucca26km
AAA
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B
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C
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Q1,Q2
S
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Q3,Q4,Q5
P
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I2J1
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J3
KK
Exhibitions
Via S. PaolinoVia S. Croce Via Elisa
Via Fi
llung
o
Art Exhibition Venues from A to Z
Montecarlo 20km
Porcari14km
Tassignano
Torre del Lago
Vecchiano
PISA 26km Vorno
DF
LT
SS W,X,Y,YY,Z1,Z2,Z3,Z4
H1
M1M2
M3
M4
H2
RAPEVINE WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND GRAPEVINE June 2015
Lucca:
A. San Francesco Church Complex.
AA. ex Casa del Boia.
B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.com
C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, photography.
D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San Martino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it
D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 450278.
E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583 467205.
F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 490530, [email protected], www.museocattedrale.lucca.it
G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9.
H1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone.
H2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.it
I1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio.
I2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo.
J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni.
J2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli. New exhibition space.
J3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs 10am to 5pm www.domusromana.it
K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15.
KK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13.
Around Lucca:
L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno
67. www.delloscompiglio.org
M1. Montecarlo: Pasquinelli Gallery, Via Roma.
M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi.
M3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center &
Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427.
M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52.
N. Ponte a Serraglio: Grapevine Cultural Assoc.
La Rondine Gallery, Via V. Emanuele.
O. Ponte a Moriano
Barga:
P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18.
P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle
Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it.
P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo
dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music.
www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti.
P4. Fondazione Ricci, Galleria Pza. San Rocco.
Versilia:
Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza
Duomo. 0584 795268.
Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29.
Q3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43.
Corso Garibaldi 116.
Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern &
Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.it
Q5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli.
Forte dei Marmi:
R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584
280292, www.villabertelli.it
R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm
to midnight.
S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L.
Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also
Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584
757443.
SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival
(www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.
Pisa:
T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it
T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it
T3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S.
Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767.
T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi
Lugarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060.
T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa.
Prato:
U. Palazzo Pretorio.
www.palazzopretorio.prato.it
V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara.
www.museodeltessuto.it
V V. Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.
Florence:
W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.org
X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60.
www.unannodarte.it
Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.it
YY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2.
Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.it
Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi.
Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it
Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10.
Capannori
1411.30am, Cathedral of San Martino, after mass, the Capella Musicale Choir of Spoleto Cathedral will perform pieces by Gounod, Beethoven, Gargiulo, Perosi, Miserachs, Rota, De Marzi & Bach.9.15pm, Dei Servi Church. Lucca Philharmonic Orchestra performs Tango! with Hyperion Tango Group & Tangueros from Buenos Aires.9pm, Teatro dell’Olivo, Camaiore. L’Elisir d’Amore by Donizetti. Tel. 0584 427062. Tickets: Cartoleria Arcobaleno, Camaiore (Corso Vitt. Emanuele 228).
21Capannori, Francigena International Arts Festival begins with War Stories, a show with actor/musician Peppe Servillo. Pianist Fabrizio Datteri. www.francigenafestival.it6pm, Palazzo Ducale, Tobino Hall. Pianists Enrico Casini & Giovanni Vitali. Boccherini OPEN.9pm, Palazzo Ducale, Tobino Hall. Guitarist Arody Garcia. Boccherini OPEN.9.15pm, Dei Servi Church. Lucca Philharmonic Orchestra performs Spielberg/Williams Cooperations, From Star Wars to Indiana Jones.
10 5pm, Lucca, Assoc. Culturale C. Viviani, Casermetta Porta S. Maria. Fabrizio Barsotti, Creative Improvisation, Teatro della Follia.9.15pm, Lucca Anfiteatro Jazz Festival, Super-Quartet, From Tango to Frank Zappa
76pm, San Martino Cathedral, Lucca. 52nd Sagra Musicale Lucchese. Artistic Director M° Luca Bacci. Organ concert of Franck & Liszt by Giulia Biagetti.6pm, Teatro Nieri, Ponte a Moriano. Musical comedy Nonno ti conto una fola. Coro del Sole conducted by Elio Antichi, Tiziano Mangani (piano). Tuscan folk songs, Lucca idioms, a fables with old games & expressions. Free.9.15pm, Lucca Anfiteatro Jazz Festival, Tom Kirkpatrik Quartet, Homage to Gerry Mulligan & Chet Baker. See article on page 10.
2322
299.15pm, Opera Barga concert. See Grapevine page 2.5.30pm, Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Saletta Suffredini. IAM Festival student recital by Morgan Lee & Dasha Koltunyuk (piano). Beethoven, Ravel, Prokofiev, Rachmaninoff, Chopin.
309.15pm, Opera Barga concert. See Grapevine page 2.9.15pm, Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Chiesa dei Cappuccini. IAM Festivalprofessors concert. W.A.Mozart: Sonata K 304 in mi minore. Francesca Girardi violin, Rossella Piegaia piano. F.Mendelssohn Sonata n.2 op.58 in Re maggiore. Benjamin Capps cello, Natalia Strelle, piano. Brahms: Sonata in fa minore op.120. Julian Milkis, clarinet, Yuri Kim piano.
179pm, Oratorio dell’Angelo Custode. Music at Napoleon’s Court. A.Walker (harp), G. Viscomi (corno naturale).
24
99.15pm, Lucca Anfiteatro Jazz Festival, Jubilum Jazz Chorus, From Gospel to the Beatles. See article on page 10.
28
9.15pm, Opera Barga concert. See Grapevine page 2.
[email protected] WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND GRAPEVIN
15
Music & TheatreJune 2015
To locate the venues,see the map and
the list above.
Coming UpLucca Summer Festival: opens on 1 July with Bob Dylan & Francesco de Gregori, followed by: 5 July John Legend, 8 July Paolo Nutini with Alabama Shakes, 9 July Irish band The Script, 10 July Billy Idol, 11 July Elton John, 22 July Mark Knopfler, 23 July Robbie Williams, 26 July
16
9pm, Industrialists’ Association Hall (Piazza Bernardini), Beethoven concert with Claudio Maffei, Massimo Maffei, Stefano Maffei (violin, cello, piano). Boccherini OPEN series.
89.15pm, Lucca Anfiteatro Jazz Festival, Supergroup di Lucca with Antonello Vannucchi at vibraphone, Frank Sinatra’s songs & the greatest standards. See article on page 10.
Wed Mon Tue Sunday
Puccinielasualucca, beginning April 1st, offers DAILY concerts at the Baptistery of San Giovanni at 7pm.
[email protected] call 340 8106042
1 329.15pm, Dei Servi Church. Lucca Philharmonic Orchestra directed by Andrea Colombini performs The Glory of G. F. Handel. Tel. 340 8106042.
IAM Festival
Mar
zia
Bal
dass
arri
119.15pm, Lucca Anfiteatro Jazz Festival, Trio in Opera, From Puccini to Jazz. See article on page 10.9pm, Pisa, Salone Società Filarmonica, Via C. Matilde 80. La Donna in Musica, 1700s-1900s. Anna-Livia Walker (harp) & Mirko Masi (violin, viola). 950th anni-versary of the Pisa Philarmonic Society. Tel. 0583 269173 to reserve.
189pm, Concerti degli Angeli Custodi, Via dell’Angelo Custode, Lucca. Music by Spohr, Panseron, Duvernoy. Soprano Vittoria Giacobazzi, with horn & harp. Tickets may be purchased in advance.9pm, Pisa, Salone Società Filarmonica, Via C. Matilde 80. Conference-concert for Matilde di Canossa (1046-1115) on the 900th anniversary of her death.
196pm, Palazzo Ducale, Tobino Hall. Pianists Li Yang Zi Wang & Christian Monti. Boccherini OPEN.9pm, Palazzo Ducale, Tobino Hall. Federica Martinelli, percussion & Stefano Teani, piano. Boccherini OPEN.9pm, Villa Bernardini (Vicopelago). Musicologist Daniele Rubboli will award Adolfo Galli & Mimmo D’Alessandro (owners of Di & Gi) the Alfredo Catalani Prize for their Lucca Summer Festival. For free reservations call 347 9951581.9.15pm, Oratorio di San Giuseppe, Piazza Antelminelli, Lucca. Final Cluster concert of the season. Peter Paul (baritone) & Gerd Rosinsky (piano).9pm, Firenze, Cloister of Santo Spirito Church. Soprano, harp, horn. Tickets available on-line at www.accademiadelispiritati.org
129pm, Firenze, Cloister of Santo Spirito Church, Ancient Music Festival. From the Dawn of the Baroque to Classicism. Continuing 18,19,26 June, 3,10 July. http://www.accademiadelispirtati.org
9.15pm, Lucca Anfiteatro Jazz Festival, X-Jam & Friends, Singin’ the Divas ... and Puccini. See article on page 10.
13 10am, Inauguration of Piazza Maggini within Lucca’s Porta San Pietro. Don Maggini was the beloved choirmaster of Santa Cecilia for many years. His polyphonic sacred music will be performed by the Cappella Santa Cecilia choir at the Oratorio della Madonnina.6pm, Oratorio della Madonnina. 52nd Sagra Musicale Lucchese. Artistic Director M° Luca Bacci. Listening Guide with Prof. Paolo Razzuoli & the Cappella Musicale Santa Cecilia: Marianna Bottini, una “donna compositrice”.6pm, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Schubert’s Symphony No. 3 performed by the Boccherini Orchestra. 9.15pm, Lucca Anfiteatro Jazz Festival, Sex FM, A tutto Funk! See article on page 10.9pm, Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Vorno. Giacinto Scelsi Tribute. Ossatura Ensemble & Crossroads Improring Ensemble. Info: 0583 971125.
66.30pm, Lucca Anfiteatro Jazz Festival, Monni Bostick street band will begin in Piazza Cittadella, continue through Piazza S. Michele & Fillungo, & arrive at the Anfiteatro at 9.15pm, where the concert will continue. See article on page 10.
5 9pm, La Versiliana at Marina di Pietrasanta. Due voci e una chitarra, a talk/sing revue by Marino Bartoletti. Including Pooh singer Roby Facchinetti talking about his career. Tel. 0584 265777, 349 8613496, www.laversilianafestival.it
20Piazza Anfiteatro, European Music Festival. 6pm, Palazzo Ducale, Tobino Hall. Pianists Isabella Gori & Arianna Tarantino. Boccherini OPEN.9pm, Palazzo Ducale, Tobino Hall. Pianist Kanami Noda. Boccherini OPEN.9.15pm, Dei Servi Church, Lucca. 52nd Sagra Musicale Lucchese. Artistic Director M° Luca Bacci. Music by Valerio Tesei, Antonio Puccini’s brother-in-law. Sinfonia, Dixit, Magnificat, Laudate pueri. Cappella Musicale Santa Cecilia & Boccherini Chamber Orchestra.
279pm, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza dei Servi. Final piano concert of Aquiles Delle Vigne’s masterclass. Boccherini OPEN.9.15pm, Opera Barga Inaudita Project. 10 world premieres for flute, sax, violin & cello. Ensemble Multilaterale - Paris. Location to be announced. Tel. 0583 711068, www.operabarga.it See page 2.
RAPEVINE WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com
259.15pm, IAM Festival opens in Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Piazza Umberto I. Prologo jazz "Liberty Collective" Versilia Ensemble: Michela Lombardi voice, Andrea Tofanelli trumpet & flicorno,Vittorio Alinari sax & vibrafono, Riccardo Arrighini piano, Andrea Fascetti bass, Vladimiro Carboni drums.
Lenny Kravitz, 28 July Marcus Miller & Snoop Dogg. Tickets 0584 46477. Lucca, Boccherini Open concert series continues.Lucca, Cartoline Puccini concerts 1st Thursday of July/August/Sept.Simulcast: 5 July Guillaume Tell. www.roh.org.ukThe Singing of Trees, Friday evening concerts at Lucca’s Botanical Garden, July & August. Capannori, Francigena International Arts Festival continues until 15 August. www.francigenafestival.itTorre del Lago Festival, 24 July to 30 August. Tosca, Madama Butterfly, Turandot, La Rondine. www.puccinifestival.itAML concerts at Pieve a Elici, Massarosa. Tonfano (near Pietrasanta), 9.30pm. Musical Thursdays.Bagni di Lucca Art Festival. 25 July to 20 August.
Pietrasanta, La Versiliana Festival 6 June to 20 Aug. Tel. 0584 265757. Complete programme at www.laversilianafestival.itForte dei Marmi, Viale G. Mazzini 200, Villa Bertelli concerts. 11 July to 23 August. Tel. 0584 7877251, www.villabertelli.itLivorno, Effetto Venezia, 30 July to 2 August. An energetic festival held along the canals of the old Medici district. Bel Canto in Barga International Singing Festival. 3-12 September. www.belcantoinbarga.comOpera Barga Festival continues: 3-5 July Teatro dei Differenti, Catone. 2, 4, 10-19 July, concerts in Barga & Bagnoni.Also in Barga, LiveIn, aka Le Piazzette, live music in the Centro Storico 16 to 26 July. Castelnuovo Garfagnana IAM Festival continues. Concerts 1 to 7 July. Students from Julliard (NYC), St. Petersburg (Russia) & Munich Conservatories. www.iamitalia.it
Friday Saturday Thu
26 9.15pm, Opera Barga Inaudita Project. 10 world premieres for flute, sax, violin & cello. Ensemble Multilaterale - Paris. Location to be announced. Tel. 0583 711068, www.operabarga.it See page 2.Porcari, Piazza Felice Orsi. Sanremo Symphony Orchestra conducted by Giancarlo De Lorenzo perform A Night at the Cinema including musical arrangements by Girolamo Deraco. www.francigenafestival.it
46.30pm, Piazza Cittadella, Cartoline Puccini. Madama Butterfly Selections €10 (0583 465320, Teatro del Giglio).RE-SCHEDULED to 17 June: 9pm, Oratorio dell’Angelo Custode. Music at Napoleon’s Court. Harp, corno naturale.9.15pm, Dei Servi Church, Lucca. 52nd Sagra Musicale Lucchese. Requiem K626 by Mozart. Artistic Director M° Luca Bacci. University of Pisa Chorus & Tuscan Chamber Orchestra. tel. 340 3042039.
The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However,to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off.
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June 2015, Exhibitions EXHIBITIONS CONTINUING FROM LAST
MONTH:
[email protected] WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND GRAPEVIN
7OPENING: Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle Mura 12, Barga. Fragments, sacred art exhibit by contemplatives artists. 9.15pm opening. Until October 15.
LAST DAY: Lucca Centro Storico, Corte dell’Angelo (access at Via Roma). Paolo Galletti, “Return”. www.paologalletti.com
14 LAST DAY: Lido di Camaiore, Tarlo della Vigna (Via Aurelia 149). The art of wrought iron, anthology display of Angelo Mugnaini. Tel. 339 1152078.
3LAST DAY: Mamma Rò, Via Cenami, Lucca. Damema painting exhibit.
16LAST DAY: Lido di Camaiore, Tarlo della Vigna (Via Aurelia 149). Miraggi: Natura e Pittura di Adriana Tonelli. Tel. 339 1152078.
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LAST DAY: Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi, Contemporary art featuring Keane. Collatoral event: Actias Luna in concert.
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OPENING: Barga, Fondazione-Conservatorio S. Elisabetta, Via del Pretorio 22. Roberto Pasquinelli, Cielo e terra di Toscana. RE-SCHEDULED to 2 July: Until 15 July. Weekdays 5-7pm, 9-11pm. Weekends 10.30am-12.30, 5-7pm, 9-11pm.LAST DAY: Firenze, Palazzo Strozzi. Power & Pathos, bronzes of the Hellenistic world. www.palazzostrozzi.orgLAST DAY: Firenze, Archaeology Museum, Piazza Santissima Annunziata. Small & large bronzes: Greek, Etruscan & Roman Bronzes from the Medici-Lorraine collections.
231 MayOPENING: 6.30pm at Lido di Camaiore, Residenza d’Epoca Hotel Club I Pini, Via Roma 43. Paintings by Daniela Caciagli from Mercurio Art. Daily 6.30pm to 11.30pm. Tel. 0584 66103. Until 30 September.
Coming Up:GAMC Viareggio, Via d’Annunzio 28.
98OPENING: Casa del Boia, Lucca. Memoria 15/18 with artists of Arte in Lucca. Images of World War I. Until 30 June, daily 10am to 6pm.
1Wed Mon Tue Sunday
Lucca, Lucca Center for Contemporary Arts. Elliott Erwitt, Retrospective. 136 photographs from 60 years of work. Until 30 August 2015.
Viareggio, Piazza Mazzini, GAMC. Expressions & forms of the 1900’s, the Pieraccini donation. Until 30 Sept 2015.Rural landscapes & View of the country of Ottone Rosai. Drawings of wall paintings from Santa Maria Novella, Firenze. Tel. 0584 581118. Until 31 December 2015.
Montecatini Terme, Il Fiore Modern Art Gallery. Menozzi, Le Leggi dello Spirito (Laws of the Spirit). Until 5 July 2015.
Vorno (Lucca), Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67. Notesparse/Scattered Notes. Photography & video installation by Lelli & Masotti. Until 5 July.
Villa Le Pianore, Capezzano Pianore, Camaiore. This Is Picasso, photographs by David Douglas Duncan. Until 12 Sept. PLEASE NOTE: This is a change of venue from the location we announced last month. See article in Grapevine, page 10.
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To locate the venues, see the map & list on the back of this calendar
RAPEVINE WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com
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11OPENING: Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca Auditorium, Monteforte: la pittura come paesaggio. Monday-Friday 3.30 to 7.30, Sat/Sunday 10am to 1pm, 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Until 5 July.
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5OPENING: 5pm, Foyer del Gran Teatro G. Puccini, Via delle Torbiere, Torre del Lago Puccini (Lu). In trasparenza, painter Annamaria Buonamici. Mon.-Fri. 10am to 1.30pm, 3pm to 5pm, Sat.-Sun. 5pm to 7.30pm. Infoline: 0584 350567. Until 2 July.LAST DAY: Agorà, Biblioteca Ragazzi, Piazza dei Servi, Lucca. Ritratti Rivoluzionari, children's illustrations. www.luccacomicsandgames.com
6LAST DAY: 5pm, Auditorium Fondazione Banca del Monte. Sogno un Teatro che Dia Coraggio. Exhibit for Peter Zadek. Also at Teatro San Girolamo. Until 2 June. Mon to Fri 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Sat/Sun & holidays 10am to 12.30pm, 3.30pm to 7.30pm. www.teatrodelgiglio.it, www.fondazionebmluccaeventi.itSee article on page 7.
13LAST DAY: Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi, Piazza Orsi. Collective of Contemporary Art (paintings, sculptures, photography). Tuesdays to Sundays 10am-3pm, 4pm-7pm. www.ventidarte.comLAST DAY: Lucca, Villa Guinigi National Museum annex. Marmi blasonati: Crests & seals from Lucca palaces, churches & other buildings. The city’s original families.
2018
Silvestro Lega, Storia di un’anima. Scoperte e rivelazioni. 20 never-seen masterpieces. 4 July to 1 Nov. Sponsored by the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca.
Ponte a Serraglio Extemporaneous Painting event, 12 July. Special prizes for students artists (15-25 years of age). Application at www.borgodegliartisti.it, tel. 320 1107330 for information.
Bagni di Lucca Art Festival at Ponte a Serraglio & beyond. 25 July to 20 August.
Friday Saturday Thu
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26 27 Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi, Contemporary art featuring Keane. Collatoral event: Actias Luna in concert.
Firenze, Palazzo Strozzi. Anche le Sculture Muoiono (Sculptures also Die). Works by 13 modern Italian & international artists. Until 26 July 2015.
Firenze, Forte Belvedere. Antony Gormley Human, sculptor. 10am to 7pm, closed Mondays. Until 27 September 2015.
Firenze, Villa Bardini. Armenian painter Gregorio Sciltian, Uscire dall'oblio (Returning from the Forgotten). 60 years of paintings. Tel. 055 2638599. Until 15 Nov. 2015.
Paris, Museo Jacquemart-André. Giotto, Masaccio, Piero della Francesca, Caravaggio: The Passions of Roberto Longhi. Until 20 July.
Venice, Arsenale, Giardini, etc. La Biennale, 56th international art exhibit. 1900 smq, Until 22 November 2015.
Venice, Calle Larga XXII Marzo. Homage to Igor Mitoraj. Until 30 Nov. 2015.
Parma, Fondazione Magnani Rocca, Mamiano di Traversetolo. Roma '900, 107 works of the Italian Novecento: De Chirico, Guttuso, Capogrossi, Balla & others. Also, Renoir & Scenes of France, from Musée d'Orsay of Paris. The Villa's permanent collection contains works by Tiziano, Goya, Rubens, Monet & many others. Peacocks roam the elegant gardens. Daily 10am to 7pm. Until 5 July.
Pisa, Palazzo Blu. The Signs of the War in Pisa. 1915-1918. Until 5 July 2015.
WORTH A TRIP...
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GRAPEVINE June 2015
TRADITIONS, FAIRS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS
THROUGHOUT ITALYFesta della Repubblica, 2 June.
PISALuminara di Pisa On 16 June. 70,000 candles light up the night, followed by fireworks. On 17 June, for San Ranieri’s feast day, a historical regatta is held in the afternoon. Then on the last Sunday of the month, 28 June, is the Gioco del Ponte, a Battle for Bridges (tug of war) dating from medieval times. See the article on pages 6-7 for more about Pisa.
LUCCA“White Party” of Andare Oltre Si Può (in association with www.associazionedownlucca.it). 6 June 7.30pm in Piazza Napoleone. Last year at Villa Mansi the event saw 450+ guests. This event is modelled on the Parisian Diner en blanc. Dress code: all white. Table settings & accessories: all white, no plastic. Bring your own food (colors permitted), & trash bags to clean up afterwards. Iacopo Grisafi & Samuele Cosentino will present a new song: C’è luce. No fund-raising will take place. The purpose is to bring together Lucca’s citi-zenry in elegance. Enrol at [email protected] with names of head of table & diners. www.facebook.com/andareoltresipuo#aosp2015#whiteparty#Lucca
Aggiungi un posto a tavola, 27 June on Lucca’s Walls. Organized to again try to win a Guinness record for the longest brindisi & longest table in the world. €20 per person, for the Croce Rossa. [email protected]
27th Annual International Chess Tournament at Palazzo Guinigi (3rd floor, under the 44 meter Guinigi Tower). 12-13-14 June. €3500 in prizes! Enrol before June 5th at 0583 997652 with R. Del Dotto. www.luccascacchi.it
Comunicare Digitale, 12th European Digital Forum. Palazzo Ducale, 11-12 June. www.comunicaredigitale.it
Yoga Retreat Day with Joann Connington, 13 June 10am to 5pm, in peaceful location near Lucca. More details: [email protected]
iT’s Tissue, Italian Technology Experience, Antico Caffè della Mura, 21-28 June. Presented by major paper produc-ers. www.itstissue.com
CAPANNORIGran Fondo (143km) & Medio Fondo (114km): Bike races in the hills south of Lucca organized by champion rider Mario Cipollini. Beginning at Piazza Aldo Moro 8.30am 2 June. With a mini-sprint for young riders on 1 June 2pm, be-ginning at the same location. www.granfondomariocipollini.it
Summer in Villa May to September, events to promote his-toric homes in the area. With visits, sport, foods,music, etc. Ufficio Marketing Territoriale tel. 0583 428588.
CAMAIORECorpus Domini & tappeti di segatura. 20-21 June. Ephemeral street art is made from colorful flowers or saw-dust on Saturday evening, with a religious procession the next morning. This year the Camaiore event is dedicated to Beata Madre Assunta Marchetti, born in Lombrici di Camaiore 15 August 1871, a missionary in Brasil and founder of the Suore Scalabriniane for migrants. Also held in Colle di Compito, Camigliano & other towns, sometimes on varying dates. Check with Lucca’s or Capannori’s tourist of-fices before setting out.
FORTE DEI MARMIFireworks at the beach (Pontile). 6, 20 June/4 July. 10pm.
BAGNI DI LUCCAAt Bagni Villa, 15th Palio della Balestra at Villa Buonvisi &
Parco Villa Ada. 21 June, 10am to 6.30pm. With medieval ex-hibits & tastings of typical products. Sponsored by the Vicaria della Val di Lima.
Volleyball tournament at San Pietro a Corsena held 21 June to 5 July, organized by the Parish of San Pietro in Corsena. 14 June is the deadline for signing up. There will be evenings of amusements, music & food.
Fly fishing course by Friends of Fly Club. 9 to 30 June, 4 af-ternoons plus 2 days on the river. Circolo dei Forestieri of Bagni di Lucca.
Parco Nazionale dell’ Archipelago Toscano, Tuscan Walking Festival. 24 April to 10 May, 19 September to 4 October. Lots of events near Livorno and the Tuscan coast, for walkers of all levels. www.tuscanywalkingfestival.it
SAGRE (town fairs):Sagras, or Sagre, are festivals usually held in small towns & villages, where people gather to eat outside, enjoy historic re-enactments & tradition, or dance to band music. They are festive occasions under the moonlight & make a great way to experience Italian life. It’s the little surprises that make them fun. The ones listed below are from the Versilia Coast, Garfagnana Mountains, & the Valle del Serchio; there are plenty more scattered throughout the countryside and around the towns. Before setting off, take a good map or GPS & a jacket or sweater for the cool evenings. Allow extra driving time so you can enjoy the route! In July, August & September we’ll tell you about many others...
Segromigno, Tordello (tortelli), 30 May to 28 June.Montecarlo in ciliegia (cherries), 14 June 9am-midnight.Montecarlo, Via Roma. Misericordia open-air dinner 20 June. Tel. 0583 22063. €15, under 8 yrs €10, under 4 free.Porcari, Via Roma. Croce Verde open-air dinner. 27 June 8pm. Sign up Mon-Fri 9am-3pm at Via Roma Est 71/A, or call 0583 298587 for info.Garfagnana, Garfagnana Motor tour & food fair, 2 June. Fornoli (Bagni di Lucca),Tutti I colori del Mondo, 2 June.Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, 1st international display of paintings, sculptures & drawings & 1st fair of goods & pro-duce, 5-7 June.San Donnino (Piazza al Serchio). Italia Nostra wine & food event, 6 June. Molazzana, Sagra della Torta & of farmers, 14 June.Villa Basilica, La Via della Carta wine & food,14 June.Gallicano, Il Pane e la Rosa, wine & food, 18-28 June.Pruno (Stazzema), Summer Solstice events. Culture, mu-sic, food & astronomy. 18-28 June.Castiglione di Garfagnana, Notte Bianca, 20 June.Sillicagnana (San Romano in Garfagnana), Macceron...aia food event, 20 June.Bagni di Lucca, Palio della Balestra, 21 June.M o n t e A r g e g n a ( G i u n c u g n a n o / M i n u c c i a n o ) , Pellegrinaggio Alpini (Pilgrimage in memory of the Alpini troops), 21 June.Sillico (Pieve Fosciana), Extemp. Painting, 21 June.Pieve di Monti di Villa (Bagni di Lucca), Festa di San Giovanni sponsored by the Parish Church, 24 June. S. Giovanni a Sala (Bagni di Lucca), Baldoria, 24 June.Piazza al Serchio, Aspettando la Notte Bianca & Notte Bianca. Musical event, 26-27 June.Fabbriche di Vallico, Medieval Festival, 27 June.Piazza al Serchio, San Pietro Fair, 28 June.Corsena (Bagni di Lucca), SS.mi Pietro e Paolo, festa padronale at the Parish Church, 29 June.Sillico (Pieve Fosciana), Di ... Vini e Sapori, 3-4 July. Fosciandora, Flavours in the Square, 3-5 July.
CINEMA
LUCCACinema Centrale, 9.30pm 4 June, Un piccione seduto su un ramo riflette sull’esistenza (Sweden 2014). 8pm 11
June, L’Altra Heimat, Cronaca di un sogno (Germany 2013, 220 min.) www.circolocinemalucca.it, i
Cinema Estate, 9pm. From the last week of June to late August, open-air films nightly at Villa Bottini (entrance Via del Fosso). Rain location: Cinema Moderno (Via V. Emanuele II, 17).
FIRENZECINEMA ODEON, Palazzo Strozzi. Original language films with Italian subtitles. 055 214068, www.odeonfirenze.com, [email protected]
CHILDREN
AGORÀ (Piazza dei Servi), Lucca. Library/reading rooms/wifi center/children’s section. Mon 2pm-7pm, Tues to Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-1pm. Videoteca Tues/Thurs 3pm-6pm, Sat 10am-12.30pm. 0583 445716 or [email protected]
You can Camp. Naturalmente Inglese. 15 June to 11 Sept at Centro Polisportivo Fralbe, Mugnano. For children 5 to 14. Lots of fun activities (music, beach volley, gardening, arts & crafts, etc.) English by Anna-Livia Walker, soccer by Alberto Francesconi & Massimiliano Pisciotta. Biologica & gluten free snacks from L’Angolo Dolce. Directors Eliana Bonaguidi & Iole Raia. Via di Mugnano, 638, Lucca. Email youcancamp [email protected] or call 339 3084619/335 7661603.
Orto Didattico of the Bschool of Lucca, Green labs for kids Saturdays 9.30-12. www.ortodidatticourbano.it
TENUTA DELLO SCOMPIGLIO, Vorno. June summer camp pro-gram. Play, theatre, art, biodynamic gardening, pizza, bread-making, swimming, biological meals. Ages 6-10, 11-13. Info: 0583 971475. [email protected]
Livorno, Villa Mimbelli Park. The World of Dinosaurs has been extended until 28 June.
Castelvecchio Pascoli (near Barga), at Il Ciocco Resort. Lego Brick play. June 20-21. [email protected]
CONFERENCES
LUCCAFONDAZIONE BANCA DEL MONTE AUDITORIUM
and National Academy of Lincei: Encounters with Excellence. 13 June Lamberto Maffei. 5.30pm. To confirm: 0583450261. [email protected]
Casa del Boia, Cannoniera. Il soldato italiano nella Grande Guerra. Ten. Col. Vittorio Livio Biondi. 15 June 6pm.
MONTECARLO, S. Seghetti Poetry Prize. 27-28 June.
COMING UP
San Paolino (patron saint of Lucca) historic re-enactment, Palio, crossbow competition. Piazza S. Michele & Via S. Paolino. 12 July.
2nd edition of La Comunale 55022, Bagni di Lucca guided mountain bike excursion to be held 18-19 July. Deadline to enroll 30 June.
Montecarlo weekends July/ August: theatre, concerts, jazz & wine, art displays. Piazza Carrara closed to traffic.
Tra le righe di Barga, literary festival. Prospettiva Editrice & Libreria Poli. 16-20 July, in Palazzo Pancrazi Atrium, Barga.
Villa Basilica, 11 July. Typical products of the Contrada Valleriana &Mysteries of the Longobards. Wine tastings, vis-its to village handicraft shops, to the Country Life Museum & to nearby Metato. Tel. 0572 461626/25.
Palazzo dei BuonvisiPalazzo dei BuonvisiWEDDINGS atWEDDINGS at
San Gennaro (Lucca)
Civil ceremonies, registered with the Towns of Capannori or Lucca, are held in this elegant and historic villa in the Lucca hills, along the Strada dell’ Olio e del Vino. The beautiful Villa Buonvisi (now also known as Casa Guidi) with its huge vaulted cantinas has been in the hands of the Guidi family since 1920. The original owners, the Buonvisi, were aristocratic merchants, the richest family of 16th cen-tury Lucca.
San Gennaro is an ancient village. Its high-est point, called “Il Castello”, is dominated by the parish church (containing a terra-cotta angel said to be by the young Leonardo da Vinci) and the finely reno-vated Palazzo Boccella, now a Tuscan cooking and catering academy.
Overlooking the Lucca plains (especially beautiful at night), the villa contains inti-mate gardens and a huge dining room for receptions and banquets, with music and catering provided. The dependance is an ideal place for honeymooners or for their special guests.
For information: +39 0583 909012
ACROSS
6 Manon_______(7)
8 Costringere, incitare (5)
10 Antica regione dell’Asia Minore,
part of Asia Minor in the ancient
world (5)
11 Region with Genoa (7)
12 Contemporary of Puccini (11)
14 Amato da Tosca (11)
17 Swallow; opera by Pucci (7)
19 Nipote fem. (5)
21 Scales (5)
22 She sings in the Café Momus (7)
DOWN
1 Puccini’s wife (6)
2 Amante (8)
3 Corsivo (6)
4 The first minister in Turandot (4)
5 He completed Turandot (6)
7 Cio-Cio-____(3)
9 Famous Italian calendar (7)
12 Lavender (7)
13 Vastità (8)
14 Tenor who sang Puccini (6)
15 Sogni (6)
16 Le opere di Puccini (5)
18 Leccio (4)
20 East (3)
How well do you know your Puccini?
GRAPEVINE June 2015 - 19
May solution
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M A T T O G A SA A L S U E
C L U B A C H I A R AT A N A D M
T O R R E D E L L A G OR A A N
B R I O L A I AA A S EV I N O D A T A V O L AI U D U I U
C O L O R I D L U C AL V O I L II V A O L I V O
Clues in English have Italian answers andclues in Italian have English answers
Compiled by Helen Askham
So you are about to turn the key to get into your holiday home in Tuscany. The day has been a challenge ... getting up at an
unearthly hour, taxis, airport stress and car-hire trauma followed by the final leg of nerve-wracking Italian roads. You are apprehensive. Your heart skips a beat as the front door opens. Your eyes rapidly scan the surrounds and your nostrils are flared on alert mode seeking out peculiar odours. The next minute or two will determine if the holiday will be pure relaxation or a week of hassle and headaches.
Let's face it, old houses are subject to driving rain, rising damp and the odd water infiltration for months on end. A closed-up house will make humidity levels skyrocket when there are sources of damp to contend with. Combine this with some trapped heat and before long you will have a subtropical climate giving rise to that familiar earthy smell of mould and mildew. Mould spores are released into the air and can cause a number of health issues especially allergy related and respiratory problems. Inhalation of mildew can cause coughing, headache, scratchy throat and lung problems.
We instinctively know that airing the house is a natural cure that will solve many of these problems. You should always keep the doors open between rooms to maximize air circulation when leaving the house unattended for the winter. If dampness is a recurring problem, consider installing a small extractor fan in the upper floor rooms with perhaps two or three inlet grills on the ground floor. This will remove the stale and damp air if operated for an hour or two every day using a timer. This simple remedy will cost no more than operating a light bulb and make a huge difference to the healthiness of your house. Alternatively some home owners try to get a neighbour or friend to occasionally open the house for an entire day when the weather permits.
For houses that suffer penetrating damp on facades exposed to driving rain, it is wise to spray the facades with a sealant every 4 to 6 years. Many proprietary sealants will resist driving rain but let vapour out, therefore helping your house to “breathe”. If the internal plaster is shot and in need of replacement, consider employing a breathable lime-based plaster instead of high cement content plasters that will only obstruct drying. All residual salts should be removed from the wall as these will only attract moisture from the air and continue to cause damp patches.
Condensation is another common problem that occurs during the winter months when a house is lived in. This is a
result of the warm humid air from the bathroom, kitchen and occupants coming into contact with a cold surface like the fog you might find on a pane of glass. The same thing happens where you have “cold bridges” in perimeter walls. Tell-tale signs of this phenomenon are spots of mould around the splayed window reveals, embedded ring beams or RSJs inserts (steel joists). When the condensation happens within the wall thickness, the damp can stay there for prolonged periods before drying out. This is a difficult problem to eliminate in old houses, especially when they've been renovated with incompatible materials and situations like cement-based plaster and air-tight windows. Once again ventilation tends to be the best remedy. There's a lot to be said for the tradition in Italy to open bedroom windows in the mornings to air the rooms, bed quilts and pillows.
Rising damp is another nasty visitor to be found in most old Italian houses. Many will resort to an annual coat of paint in a futile attempt to cover the undesired effects. Eventually the plaster will crumble and a patch job will do very little. Rising damp is caused by capillary action like you would see by dipping a tissue into a glass of water. The effects are a combination of staining, mould, salts, plaster degradation and the familiar “tide marks”. The dampness rises and evaporates, depositing harmful salts on the surface that cause the unsightly dam-age. You can try to stop the damp from ris-ing by creating a physical or chemical bar-rier. These barriers can be very costly and have limited success on old stone walls.
Alternatively you can reduce the effects by applying a special breathable macro-porous plaster for about 1.4m above the ground floor level. Such plasters have been tried and tested for well over 15 years now and seem to work fine. Always remember to use a compatible paint to avoid clogging the pores in the plaster.
Many properties that enjoy magnificent views in Tuscany are built into hillsides and have semi-buried cellars. For some reason, overseas buyers always seek to convert these cellars into bedrooms or some sort of living quarters. Unfortunately the walls are in direct contact with the surrounding soil, which produces an enormous amount of penetrating and rising damp as well as water infiltrations. In such cases, a perimeter void needs to be created around the buried segment of the house to eliminate the soil contact and provide sufficient ventilation. The same applies to the floors, which need to be adequately aerated below. Even after undertaking such drastic measures, I notice that the installation of new doors and windows is detrimental, as they encapsulate the dampness. My simple advice is to try to avoid converting such areas! Cellars were never supposed to be destined for dwelling use in the first place and prolonged absences will only make matters worse. If you are still determined, then some sort of natural or forced ventilation will always be necessary.
When buying a house, always consider the potential hassle that damp may cause after prolonged absences. A few simple precautions during the restoration phase will ensure that your getaway break remains a well- earned week of relaxation.
David Collins, an engineer by profession, has lived and worked in Tuscany for over 20 years. He manages Our Toscana providing house surveys, plans & permits and undertakes all kinds of restoration projects throughout Tuscany. David lives near Lucca with his Italian wife and two children.
A Damp Holiday Home!
20 - June 2015 GRAPEVINE
If you like to combine outdoor scenic beauty and picturesque hill towns with educational visits to museums for your Italy sightseeing, the Tuscan
town of Vinci may be a perfect fit. Centrally located about 50 minutes from Florence, Pisa, Lucca and the Chianti region, it is best reached by car, but it is also possible to arrive by using a train-bus combination.
Vinci is located above the swamps of Fucecchio on the west side of the Albano mountains, and the last 15 minutes of the drive brings you into lush hillsides covered with ancient olive groves, vineyards and tall cypress and pine trees. The town and its surroundings are largely unchanged from the days when young Leonardo roamed its stone-paved streets. Just to stroll through the city and drive or hike up the 3-kilometer Strada Verde that leads to his ancestral home would be enough to make the trip worthwhile.
If you need some snacks to refresh yourself, about 200 meters from the house is a pleasant couple named Lorenzini, with a food-stand of locally made products to fulfill your wishes. They offer free samples of brigadini, a sweet flat pasta that is a local specialty. They also sell cold beer, hot nuts, honey, a variety of sweets, cured meats, wine and olive oil.
The top attractions in Vinci focus us, of course, on the multi-talented man who is said to have been born there April 15, 1452, as the illegitimate son of a notaio, Sir Piero, and Catherine, a peasant woman. Leonardo is often portrayed as the archetypical Renaissance Man, described by author Helen Gardner as a polymath of unquench-able curiosity and feverishly inventive imagination. He is recognized as a painter, sculptor, architect, musician, mathematician, engineer, inventor, anatomist, geologist, cartographer, botanist and writer.
The Casa Natale di Leonardo, re-opened with new displays in 2012, is listed in TripAdvisor as the town's top attraction. You can save money by purchasing a ticket for both the ancestral home and the Museo Leonardiano, which is the number two attraction in Vinci. The room next to the ticket office offers a short history of Leonardo as an artist, from his entrance into Master Verrocchio's workshop to his most important works. Probably the best attraction in the casa natale is a 22-minute holographic film where a life-like 3-D Leonardo reminisces about his life and accomplishments. The film alternates between English and Italian. Another room is devoted to an interactive display and explanation of the famous Last Supper, which also can be viewed in either language. Depending on your interest in the subject, this display can occupy your time for 30 seconds or 30 minutes. You can interact with the painting projected on a wall through a Wii-like application by just moving your hands, but it's easier to use the small touchscreen off to the side.
The gentle hills, the wide fields of vineyards and olive trees and the sun itself are integral parts of the museum and of its history, writes blogger Sara Turini. This
beauty has doubtless contributed to envelop and influence the fantasy, wit, creativity and genius of one of the greatest men in the world.
Back in town, the Museo Leonardo is devoted mostly to his inventions. Engineers from IBM used the great man's sketches to create working models of his machines, and since then other academics have donated more machines and computer animations to bring his concepts to life. Leonardo had the ideas, but he didn't have the technology or time to produce all of them. Included are a scuba diving apparatus, a modern air conditioner, a projection device, a self-propelled vehicle, a machine for making coins, a helicopter, a parachute, a swing bridge, hydraulic machines, a tank, a double-hull boat and a bicycle. Unfortunately, most of the explanations are only in Italian, but by good fortune, I was accompanied by a bilingual tour guide, our friend Elena Benvenuti (http://luccaguide.webs.com), who is an expert on Leonardo.
Two other places not to be missed are the church with the font where Leonardo was in all likelihood baptized, and the castle tower, which has a spectacular 360-degree view of the town, hills and valley. Then there are the monuments that recall some of his famous works, such as The Horse, created in 1997 by sculptor Nina Akamu, in the likeness of the colossal statue of Francesco Sforza that Leonardo never brought to completion, or The Man from Vinci, a sculpture by Mario Ceroli and inspired by the famous man of Vitruvius. The town has been awarded the Bandiera Arancione, a recognition of quality awarded by the Touring Club Italiano to select small towns for excellence in tourism, hospitality and the environment. I recommend taking at least three hours of free time in the town, plus another hour for a restful lunch or dinner, either outside with a picnic or in one of the restaurants.
– by Paul SpadoniPaul is an author & speaker
on Italian culture. His blog is at www.livingwithabroadintuscany.blogspot.it
VinciDay T
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The original fireplace in the house where Leonardo was born
GRAPEVINE June 2015 - 21
Dear friends, as summer approaches we prepare ourselves for this warmer season. The most important element now is water. Let's use it with care, optimizing its benefits by watering in the
cooler morning hours, when there is less evaporation. Let’s try not to waste it. In the Lucca plains, some areas are quite rich in water, while others (especially the hills, where there is less water in the subsoil) are a bit drier. So, also taking into consideration the geographic position of our gardens, we will try to cultivate plants that will grow without too much difficulty. Besides the exposition and the type of soil, we need to consider the availability of water during the summer. This is often overlooked, and sometimes results in losing what we planted in the months between fall and springtime.
Besides using water sparingly, we should also be careful how we handle the products that protect our plants from funguses and parasites. We know that already by April or May, and especially in summer, our beloved plants are more subject to “falling ill” due to the climate and the humidity. We seek the most natural methods and products possible, both for prevention and for cures, so as not to impact the environmental system any more than necessary.
Not only do plants suffer from insects, so do humans. With rising temperatures, one of the most annoying creatures in our gardens and our homes is the tiger mosquito, which unlike the common mosquito, flies about and attacks us even during the day. We can find various insecticides against these irritating pests on sale. The most ecological products are those based on pyrethrum (Chrysanthemum cinerariafolium), an extract of some flowers belonging to the Asteracee family, which makes up the active principle of the insecticide, working in contact with the mosquito.
After we have organized our defenses, maybe even rubbing on our skin leaves of mint, basil, sage, etc., to repel the insects with their smell, we are ready to face a day in the open air. We continue to cut the lawns, now at a somewhat higher level so that the surface of the ground is fresher and the grass can grow with less stress. We prune the ornamental hedges that have stopped flowering, and keep under control the exuberant vegetation of climbing plants such as wisteria, jasmine, climbing roses, etc., as well as the weeds in the flowerbeds and vegetable gardens, which grow quite well during this season.
For some years now an evolution in gardening ideas and products has taken place, allowing us to raise vegetables even if we don't have a garden or a space reserved for this purpose. Anyone who has a terrace or balcony, or even a few windows (preferably with a southern exposure) can grow vegetables, deriving satisfaction and above all knowing where these products come from and how they are grown. Nowadays vegetable gardens are viewed not only from the perspective of food, but also for aesthetic and ornamental reasons. Think of the Villandry Gardens in the Loire chateux region of France, where the vegetables grown within plots bordered by Buxus create beautiful chromatic and ornamental effects.
The concepts, distinctions and uses of vegetables and ornamental plants have changed greatly in recent years. Cabbages and eggplants, besides being vegetables, are also ornamental. On a practical level, if you have a terrace or balcony, you obviously have more possibilities and can dedicate yourself to cultivating various vegetables, such as tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini, etc. If you are limited to windows, you will probably need smaller containers, in which you can grow other types of plants, such as basil, parsley, strawberries, etc. – or aromatic herbs such as thyme, marjoram, savory, etc. These latter grow well even in a small amount of soil.
The first thing to do is to choose the container, not only in terms of its material (terracotta, plastic, resin), but also for its size. Consider the space available and what you want to grow. Then situate the containers, paying special attention to how they are fixed in place, especially if they are on a windowsill or a balcony ledge. Avoid any risk of them falling and hurting people or objects! After positioning the
Container Gardening
growing vegetables on a balcony
gardening at home
22 - June 2015 GRAPEVINE
from vegetables to flowers to herbs ...
pots, put some overturned bits of pottery atop their drainage holes, then arrange a small layer of expanding clay (about 3 to 5 cm) over this to help with drainage. Next, put fertilized soil into the pots. There are soils on sale that are specifically intended for growing vegetables. After having prepared the setting that will host our vegetables or aromatic plants, we proceed with placing them in the appropriate containers. Remember, besides caring for them attentively during their growing season, it is important to put the plants in a fairly sunny location (although some shade can also be good).
For you adventurous types and for those who appreciate variety, I suggest you try this kind of cultivation. You will see that it's not lacking in satisfaction. Try it and believe!
Happy gardening to all!
– by Simone Lippi
Il Cerchio Verde 0583 316713 or 335 8354437
www.ilcerchioverde.it
vertical garden
biological gardening
Chateau Villandry gardens
GRAPEVINE June 2015 - 23
They were all so different, light, not cloying or unctuous, and quite mem-orable. These folks make every-thing they produce from scratch,
except for toasting the hazelnuts. They evenmake their own nut butters to flavor the gelatos. Short of milking the cows themselves this was definitely a hands-on affair.
Mirko, the wizard, took me on a tour of their small batch production area. Small batches mean very fresh products that taste the way the creator, Mirko, wants them to taste. He pulled out a small tub of “bruschetta”, a fior di latte-based gelato of vine-ripe tomatoes, extra-virgin olive oil and fresh basil. It tasted like summer. Defi-nitely a dessert or an in-between course gelato, definitely a tomato caprese-esque sweet. He was awarded a prize for this in the Dolomites this past winter, at the famous gelato competition at Longarone.
Then we went out to the gelateria, where the glass cases were filled with semi-freddo desserts. Black chocolate tortes with candied orange peels, super creamy pistachio rhomboids with a delicate sponge cake base. Diet be damned … I went for it all. I tasted
just about everything and there wasn't anything I didn't like. My favorites were a deep rich dark chocolate Strafondente sorbetto with crunchy bits of pure cacao mixed in, Madiba, a white coffee gelato in homage to Nelson Mandela, Nonna Lina, a ricotta-based gelato with walnuts and honey, and zabaglione with vin santo and cantucci biscuits. There aren't any bad choices. Everything is natural, mostly gluten-free and made in-house. There are also wonderful lactose-free flavors. You just cannot go wrong.
Cremeria Opera is an epiphany as to what can been done to elevate ice cream to the level of “heavenly”. There is an outdoor terrace large enough for a big birthday party or small wedding reception, and plenty of seating inside as well. Forget your diet and try this place often. Remember… you'll never see a depressed person in front of a bowl of gelato, especially not here! Buon appetito!
– by Karen Vander
Cremeria Opera951 Viale G. Luporini.
Just a short walk from the walls of Lucca, outside Piazzale Verdi.
Open daily from 11:30 am to 11:30 pm and weekends even later.
Cremeria Opera ...… forget the calories!
24 - June 2015 GRAPEVINE
trilingual (French, English, Italian), for private & public engagements, lessons.
[email protected]. 333 8617962
HARPISTIl Cerchio VerdeDesign and installation gardens terraces and watering systems
Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens
tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]
Tel. 0572 32683
Cell. 328 2588959
www.ourtoscana.com
Property Surveys
House Plans & Permits
Restorations
Honorary citizenship has been conferred on David Douglas Duncan (now 99 years of age) by the town of Camaiore, in a ceremony at Villa Le Pianore in Capezzano Pianore (near Camaiore). At the same location, Duncan's photo-graphs of Picasso are now on display.
Last year Duncan donated his portfolio of photographs of Picasso to the town of Camaiore. Thanks to the support of the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, this excep-tional exhibit (curated by Enrico Stefanelli and set up by the architect Alessandra Guidi) can now be enjoyed by the public.
The American photojournalist knew the Catalan artist quite well. It was Robert Capa, in 1957, who suggested that Duncan and Picasso would become friends. Picasso had a huge home and laboratory near Cannes where he lived with his wife Jaqueline Roque. When Duncan arrived, Jaqueline took him upstairs and presented him to Picasso, who was in the bathtub, nude. That was where the first photograph was taken.
During 17 years of intense friendship (ending only in 1973, when the artist died), Duncan became well acquainted with the personal side of Picasso. He photographed not only Picasso, but also Jaqueline, the children Paloma and Claude, and the teckel dog Lump, Picasso's faithful companion.
Duncan was born in Kansas City in 1916. He studied archaeology, marine zoology and Spanish, which he spoke with Picasso. During World War II Duncan was a reporter on the Pacific Front and for National Geographic. Between 1946 and 1956 he worked for Life magazine, covering the British occu-pation of India, the oil boom in Saudi Arabia, the Greek civil war and the Korean and Vietnamese Wars. In 1971 he was invited to New York's Whitney Museum of American Art to exhibit his photographs. His images of Picasso have been col-lected in seven volumes.
Le Pianore was damaged by the March storms earlier this year, but its owners, the Cavanis Fathers, have managed to make this beautiful villa available. For now, however, the gar-dens must remain off limits to visitors.
Villa Le Pianore, Via San Michele 5/a, Camaiore (Lucca).The exhibit is open from 5pm to 11pm, until 13 September.
Tickets: whole €7, reduced €5 (students, under 18, over 65, groups of 10+). Free: children under 12 & Camaiore residents
Information: Town of Camaiore, 0584 986334
David Douglas Duncan,Picasso's Friend
Pablo Picasso portrait by David Douglas Duncan
VIA ACQUACALDA 192 (opposite the Cantoni factory), tel 0583/496920. House clearance - Removals.Vast selection of second-hand furniture, clothes, toys, videos, etc. Visit our store on eBay and our page on Facebook.
Open 10.00-12.30 / 15.30-19.30 CLOSED MONDAY www.mercatinousatolucca.it On-line sales
GRAPEVINE June 2015 - 25
(also visible at www.luccagrapevine.com)
26 - June 2015 GRAPEVINE
Classified Advertisements
Country house in small village 15 min. from Bagni di Lucca. 150 sqm with garden of 275 sqm. Built in 1670, renovated in 2007. Private parking for 3 cars with more parking in the piazza and village car park. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, fireplace, woodstove, satellite and broadband. Small garage and large cantina both lighting power and water. The house can be sold fur-nished and ready to use as a B&B. €245,000 negotiable. (Ref. 1008)
Lovely, cozy mountain village house for sale or rent near Castelnuovo. €149,000. See www.houseintuscanyforsale.com for full details (Ref. 1067)
PROPERTY FOR SALEGrapevine will advertise for individuals and act as mediator/ interpreter with potential clients world-wide, using qualified geometers for all technical and professional aspects of sales and rentals.
This beautiful house stands in its own grounds in a sunny position. It is in a small village five minutes by car from Fornaci di Barga and ten minutes from Barga. It is sev-eral centuries old but has been modernised to a high standard in a traditional Tuscan style. The first floor is entered from a large paved terrace and consists of a sitting room and large kitchen/dining area. There are twobedrooms on the upper floor and two bathrooms, one "en suite". The lower floor has a bathroom, utility room and a spacious room with access to a small paved terrace. There is also a separate study/library with its own bathroom. The total floor area is 180 sq.m. There is a substantial area of terraced land. The pool (15.5m.x5m.) on the upper terrace enjoys a fine view of the Serchio valley. There is a capanna with the pump-room and a large storage room. Contact owner on 3388133453 or [email protected] (Ref. 1066)Old stone house, restored, at Lago di Vagli (north of Lucca), 3 floors total-ing 60sqm. Kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, spiral staircase, pre-disposed for 2 pellet stoves. (Ref. 1059)S. Ginese di Compito Big old stone 19th century house with beams and cotto to renovate. 180 sqm, courtyard. €65,000. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 903)Compitese hills: Panoramic terraced olive grove, 3300 sqm. Approx. 200 trees (secolari), with 45 sqm stone metato, water and some grapevines and fruit trees. €40,000 OBO. (Ref. 996)Beautiful home of 170smq on 1 hectare of land near Bagni di Lucca, with pool (12x5). 4 bedrooms, 3 baths. Plans are available for building 2 more houses on the property, one 120 sqm, other 210 sqm. Holiday house reser-vations already booked throughout 2014. 700,000 euros. (Ref. 1014)Country house in small village 15 min. from Bagni di Lucca. 150 sqm with garden of 275 sqm. Built in 1670, renovated in 2007. Private parking for 3 cars with more parking in the piazza and village car park. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, fireplace, woodstove, satellite and broadband. Small garage and large cantina both lighting power and water. The house can be sold fur-nished and ready to use as a B&B. €245,000 negotiable. (Ref. 1008)
Beautiful country home 30 min. south of Pisa (towards Collesalvetti). Hectare of land with outdoor Jacuzzi. Kitchen with fireplace. Cottage with thermo-convector fireplace. Bathrooms w/ mar-ble & stained-glass doors. Master suite w/ rustic wooden floor, 3 bedrooms, 3 baths. Approx. 160 sqm. Terrace, dog pen, well-lit grounds, 2 entrances. €700,000. (Ref. 1029)
Lovely, cozy mountain village house for sale or rent near Castelnuovo. €149,000. See www.houseintuscanyforsale.com for full details (Ref. 1067)
Beautifully renovated apartment inside the historic walls of Lucca. In 500-year-old palazzo comprising entrance, 2 bed (possibly 3-4), 2 bath, tower w study, separate living, dining, kitchen, laundry. 198 sqm. Safe, secure, quiet. Unfurnished or fully furnished. Photos /details: www.passioneitalia.info or contact owner on 340 8114903, [email protected] (Ref. 1046)
Peaceful country villa in the Compitese hills. 215sqm, 2 hectares of fruit & olive trees. 2 residences with separate entrances: one 3 bedrooms 3 baths, the other 3 bedrooms 2 baths. Beautiful kitchens & fireplaces, traditional Tuscan style. Double garage, gated property, outdoor pizza oven, plenty of space for a pool. Furnishings available. (Ref. 867)
Newly-built homes near center of Bagni di Lucca, to be finished to buyer specifications, each with 1000 sqm of land, offering space for a swimming pool. One, 270 sqm on two levels, with garage €450,000. Second, 300 sqm on three levels, generous-sized living and dining rooms, with garage. Overlooking the village church. Bedroom doors open onto scenic terraces, marble stairs indoor and stone steps outdoors. €600,000 (Ref. 991)
Large, well-maintained home for sale in the town of Camporgiano (30 minutes north of Lucca), with 4 bedrooms. Built in the 1920's. 256 sqm, independent on 4 sides. €230,000 or best offer. (Ref. 989)
New home 10 minutes from Bagni di Lucca with breathtaking view of Pratofiorito. 300 sqm with 3000 sqm of cleared land. On 3 levels. €600,000. Ideal for an extended family or just peace and quiet, enjoyment of nature but with a fine restaurant at walking distance. To be fin-ished according to your desires. (Ref. 992)
Ammodonostro Ristorante
In the heart of Lucca's Centro Storico, between Piazza San Francesco and Piazza Anfiteatro, you will find the restaurant Ammodonostro. A new, young, friendly eating place where it will be our pleasure to create and offer you dishes of the highest quality. At lunchtime, there are daily specialities - simple and quick - in addition to the menu. Bookings welcomed.
This restaurant can accommodate individuals on gluten free diets
Via della Fratta 22, 55100 ~ Lucca tel 0583/953828 Open 11.30am-10pm - Closed Tuesday
www.ristoranteammodonostro.it [email protected]
Short rentals. Special apartment 80sqm inside Lucca's historical center in ancient palace. Large terrace with fabulous view all around the hills. 2 bed-rooms (1 double, 1 single), fully furnished, newly renovated. All modern utilities. 347 4218013 (Ref. 1064)
Yoga & Yogilates Classes offered in English & Italian. Centro Storico location. Experienced Instructor. Email [email protected] for details. (Ref. 1068)Difficult Times? Needing Help? short- or long-term counselling in English or Italian. London-qualified, caring and experienced counsellor, studio in Lucca centre. Phone: 340 524 0334 (Ref. 1063)
Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing and export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at or 340 [email protected] (Ref. 771)
Holistic treatments, Chinese traditional medicine, shiatsu spinal ma-nipulation, macrobiotic consultations. Call Enrico Chiesa at 347 7420449. (Ref. 1050)
PROPERTY FOR RENTShort rentals. Special apartment 80sqm inside Lucca's historical center in ancient palace. Large terrace with fabulous view all around the hills. 2 bed-rooms (1 double, 1 single), fully furnished, newly renovated. All modern utilities. 347 4218013 (Ref. 1064)Old stone home, Compitese. 20 min. south of Lucca Centro. 3 bedrooms, A/C, bath, kitchen w/ fireplace, traditional style, beautiful views, peaceful garden. 130 sqm. Partly furnished. €900/month (1 year min.). (Ref. 993)4-bedroom country home in small village near Barga, from early 1900's, airy + spacious, for summer rentals. Large lawn (ideal for children) with palm trees, peacocks + turtles. Views over surrounding hills. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1065)Country home, sleeps 5, A/C, above-ground pool, bbq, garden, panoramic. In village bet. Lucca & Pisa. www.vrbo.com Ref. 716444. (Ref. 1073)
LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS & COURSESYoga Retreat Day with Joann Connington, 13 June 2015, 10am to 5pm, in peaceful location near Lucca. More details:[email protected] (Ref. 1070)Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers indi-vidual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with inter-preting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell. 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)
ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICESAccountant Paola Girolami (Universities of Pisa and Bristol). Via Delle Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel 0583 471734, fax 0583 952349.Chiropractor Cynthia Christensen, DC. Esculapio Centro Medico. Viale S. Concordio 665, 55100 Lucca. Cell 340 4142329.Dental Surgeon Dr. Rogier Staal (University of Amsterdam). Via Farnesi 25a, Lucca. Tel and fax 0583 953633. Dutch/English/Italian/French/ German. [email protected] Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 492853.Dental Surgeon Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, [email protected] Giampaolo Benedetti Pearson, Anglo-Italian and bilingual. BBP Legal Law Firm, Via Belgio n. 1, 56021 Cascina (Pisa). Mob. +39 328 3296655, email: [email protected] International contracts, Company law and Intellectual property. (Ref. 1072)Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. email [email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict connection with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected] & Yogilates Classes offered in English & Italian. Centro Storico location. Experienced Instructor. Email [email protected] for details. (Ref. 1068)Difficult Times? Needing Help? short- or long-term counselling in English or Italian. London-qualified, caring and experienced counsellor, studio in Lucca centre. Phone: 340 524 0334 (Ref. 1063)Podiatrist Dott. Marco Martinelli, Via Guinigi 39, Lucca Centro Storico. 0583 496717, 348 8336545. [email protected] (Ref. 1061)Landscape design & Garden maintenance [email protected] - www.luccalandscape.it Tommaso cell. (+39) 349 284 5399. (Ref. 572)
Marketing agent wanted for international magazine based in Lucca. Commission-based work. Ideal for mobile, energetic, out-going bilingual people. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1041)Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing and export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at or 340 [email protected] (Ref. 771)We are a couple, Italian & Dutch, fluent speakers of English and French, ex-perienced in the business of restaurants, bar, events, hospitality. He has exten-sive experience in providing services in bars, kitchens, maintenance of villas and cook on sailboats. Previously responsible for human resources and mar-keting. She has 10 years experience of managing B&B, food&drink, previ-ously successful interior designer. Together we offer management services for B&B, organization and preparation of dinners, events. We are also able to pro-vide property management (house and garden). Immediately available in the province of Lucca, references on request. Rita Poggiali & Marco Sleijpen, cell. 346 9488050 [email protected] (Ref. 1071)
VARIOUSPuccini Opera & Wine Tour 27th – 31st August 2015. Price from €535 per person sharing. 10% discount for bookings made before 15th June.http://www.marthaclarkeimages.com/photo-tours.html [email protected] +39 346 279 5048. (Ref. 1069)Holistic treatments, Chinese traditional medicine, shiatsu spinal ma-nipulation, macrobiotic consultations. Call Enrico Chiesa at 347 7420449. (Ref. 1050)
GRAPEVINE June 2015 - 27
POOL CONSTRUCTIO
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POOL MAIN
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LUNATA - LUCCA tel. 0583.429333 - fax 0583.429158
[email protected] www.systems-pool.com
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pesce povero €15 - €20 - €30 fixed menu
drinks and dessert includedclosed Monday
Via Mordini 74/78 - Lucca Tel 0583 443065Reservations requested
