University of Minnesota Instructional Poster #163, Gary S. Reuter and Marla Spivak, Department of Entomology www.extension.umn.edu/honeybees Wrapping Honey Bee Colony for a Northern Winter 2. The colony should be in 3 deep hive bodies with most of the honey toward the top. The holes in the bottom two boxes should be closed. 3. The hole in the top box should be open. If you do not have a hole for an upper entrance you should drill one now. Make it below the handle. 4. The entrance reducer should be placed with the 3” space facing up. 1. The first step is to evaluate the colony in September for its wintering ability. It should have a young prolific queen, enough honey stores (75-95 lbs.), large bee population (10+ frames of bees) and few mites. Feed syrup medicated for Nosema. 5. Soon after the first of November start wrapping by placing a moisture board on top of the inner cover. This is a porous sheeting that will absorb moisture from the hive and evaporate to the outside. Shown is 3/4” Bild Rite® sheeting. 7. Place a beehive winter wrap over the colony. Note that one of the flaps is folded inside. This will allow air to pass over the moisture board to evaporate the moisture. 8. Cut a hole in the winter cover to correspond with the top entrance hole. 9. Put the cover on the top but be sure to leave it crooked so the air can get at the moisture board to evaporate. Put a rock on to prevent the wind from blowing it off. 10. This is the colony ready for winter. You should not have to visit it until March. 12. Optional. You can also make a little wind deflector and staple over the hole. This can stop some of the wind from blowing in the entrance. Be sure to put it up from the landing 1/2” to let the bees enter. 14. For details on mites and diseases see Honey Bee Diseases and Pests manual or Healthy Bees web course. www.extension.umn.edu/.honeybees 11. Optional. You can make a little landing board and nail it below the hole. This also keeps the cover tight against the box. 15. For more information on managing honey bees see our manual Beekeeping in Northern Climates . www.extension.umn.edu/.honeybees 13. Entrance is ready for winter 6. The moisture board is very important. Shivering bees in the winter cluster produce a lot of metabolic water that must not freeze inside the colony. Do not use one that has a moisture barrier. If you do not have access to this sheeting a stack of newspaper 1” thick can work. Do not use Styrofoam type material.

Wrapping Honey Bee Colony for a Northern Winter€¦ · stores (75-95 lbs.), large bee population (10+ frames of bees) and few mites. Feed syrup medicated for Nosema. 5.Soon after

Download PDF Report

Upload
others
View
0
Download
0

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

University of Minnesota Instructional Poster #163, Gary S. Reuter and Marla Spivak, Department of Entomologywww.extension.umn.edu/honeybees

Wrapping Honey Bee Colony for a Northern Winter

2. The colony should be in 3 deep hivebodies with most of the honey toward thetop. The holes in the bottom two boxesshould be closed.

3. The hole in the top box should be open. Ifyou do not have a hole for an upperentrance you should drill one now. Makeit below the handle.

4. The entrance reducer should be placedwith the 3” space facing up.

1. The first step is to evaluate the colony inSeptember for its wintering ability. It shouldhave a young prolific queen, enough honeystores (75-95 lbs.), large bee population(10+ frames of bees) and few mites. Feedsyrup medicated for Nosema.

5. Soon after the first of November startwrapping by placing a moisture board ontop of the inner cover. This is a poroussheeting that will absorb moisture from thehive and evaporate to the outside. Shownis 3/4” Bild Rite® sheeting.

7. Place a beehive winter wrap over thecolony. Note that one of the flaps is foldedinside. This will allow air to pass over themoisture board to evaporate the moisture.

8. Cut a hole in the winter cover tocorrespond with the top entrance hole.

9. Put the cover on the top but be sure toleave it crooked so the air can get at themoisture board to evaporate. Put a rockon to prevent the wind from blowing it off.

10. This is the colony ready for winter. Youshould not have to visit it until March.

12. Optional. You can also make a littlewind deflector and staple over the hole.This can stop some of the wind fromblowing in the entrance. Be sure to put itup from the landing 1/2” to let the beesenter.

14. For details on mites and diseases seeHoney Bee Diseases and Pests manualor Healthy Bees web course.

www.extension.umn.edu/.honeybees

11. Optional. You can make a little landingboard and nail it below the hole. Thisalso keeps the cover tight against thebox.

15. For more information on managinghoney bees see our manual Beekeepingin Northern Climates.

www.extension.umn.edu/.honeybees

13. Entrance is ready for winter

6. The moisture board is very important.Shivering bees in the winter clusterproduce a lot of metabolic water that mustnot freeze inside the colony. Do not useone that has a moisture barrier. If you donot have access to this sheeting a stack ofnewspaper 1” thick can work. Do not useStyrofoam type material.