Woven Designs and Fabric Woven Designs and Fabric CostsCosts

Dr. Jimmy LamDr. Jimmy Lam

Institute of Textiles & ClothingInstitute of Textiles & Clothing

Learning ObjectivesLearning Objectives

Dobby PatternDobby Pattern Jacquard PatternJacquard Pattern Colour and Weave effectColour and Weave effect Woven Fabric CostsWoven Fabric Costs

Woven DesignsWoven Designs

If a fabric containing woven design is carefully If a fabric containing woven design is carefully examined, it will be noted that the design was created examined, it will be noted that the design was created by selective long and short floats as well as the by selective long and short floats as well as the placement of interlacings.placement of interlacings.

Woven designs can be divided into three types, Woven designs can be divided into three types, namely:namely:

1.1. Dobby patternsDobby patterns2.2. Jacquard patternsJacquard patterns3.3. Colour and Weave patternsColour and Weave patterns

Dobby PatternsDobby Patterns

A dobby pattern is a design which contains simple geometric A dobby pattern is a design which contains simple geometric forms or motifs.forms or motifs.

It is made by regular loom with special hardness control It is made by regular loom with special hardness control mechanism called dobby head.mechanism called dobby head.

The dobby mechanism can control as many as 36 hardness. The dobby mechanism can control as many as 36 hardness. Thus, more complex (bigger) and expensive weaves can be Thus, more complex (bigger) and expensive weaves can be

created other than simple plain, twill or satin weave.created other than simple plain, twill or satin weave. A simple design likes plain, twill or satin weave uses cam A simple design likes plain, twill or satin weave uses cam

motion which can control up to 6 hardness and therefore, the motion which can control up to 6 hardness and therefore, the design is simple (smaller) and cheaper weavedesign is simple (smaller) and cheaper weave

Dobby Motion, up to 36 hardnesses can be controlled

Jacquard PatternJacquard Pattern

Simple design uses cam motion which can control up to 6 hardness.Simple design uses cam motion which can control up to 6 hardness. More complex design uses dobby motion which can control up to 36 More complex design uses dobby motion which can control up to 36

hardness.hardness. For an unlimited design (up to 1,000 width), a jacquard loom will be For an unlimited design (up to 1,000 width), a jacquard loom will be

used.used. This pattern is normally exceeds the capacity of hardness looms, so a This pattern is normally exceeds the capacity of hardness looms, so a

special loom is used which has no hardness, and the ends are special loom is used which has no hardness, and the ends are controlled by a jacquard head located at top of the loom.controlled by a jacquard head located at top of the loom.

Hooks and needles are used to raise and lower the warp yarns. As Hooks and needles are used to raise and lower the warp yarns. As there are no hardnesses, any combination of yarns can be raised or there are no hardnesses, any combination of yarns can be raised or lowered to produce the designlowered to produce the design

Jacquard Loom

Hooks & NeedlesThey control thousands of warp yarn up/down motion

Unlimited design is possible

Jacquard Loom

Jacquard Loom (2)Jacquard Loom (2)

Jacquard loom requires a large area and a very Jacquard loom requires a large area and a very high ceiling.high ceiling.

The loom operates more slowly than do the The loom operates more slowly than do the other, simpler looms, so that fabric produced on other, simpler looms, so that fabric produced on this loom are more expensive.this loom are more expensive.

Damask, tapestry and brocade are well-known Damask, tapestry and brocade are well-known fabrics made with jacquard design.fabrics made with jacquard design.

Color-and-weave Effect (1)Color-and-weave Effect (1)

A color-and-weave effect is a pattern produced in a A color-and-weave effect is a pattern produced in a fabric by using a certain weave and a certain fabric by using a certain weave and a certain arrangement of differently colored yarns in both warp arrangement of differently colored yarns in both warp and weft direction.and weft direction.

A housestooth pattern is a common example of color-A housestooth pattern is a common example of color-and-weave effect design.and-weave effect design.

A 2/2 left hand twill (45 degree) with black and white A 2/2 left hand twill (45 degree) with black and white colour arranged in both warp and weft direction, with colour arranged in both warp and weft direction, with four of one colour, followed by four of the second four of one colour, followed by four of the second colour, produces a housetooth patterncolour, produces a housetooth pattern

Colour-and-Weave effect

Warp colour arrangement

Weft color arrangement

Hound’s Tooth Pattern

White and black yarns arranged in warp and weft direction, Plus twill design

Color-and-weave Effect (2)Color-and-weave Effect (2)

Graph paper may be used to show a colour and weave effect.Graph paper may be used to show a colour and weave effect. The squares are marked with the colour of the yarn interlaces The squares are marked with the colour of the yarn interlaces

over.over. If a black warp and green weft interlace with the weft over, the If a black warp and green weft interlace with the weft over, the

square is filled in green.square is filled in green. If the warp yarn passes over the weft, the square is filled in If the warp yarn passes over the weft, the square is filled in

black.black. When completed, the result is not the weave, but the pattern When completed, the result is not the weave, but the pattern

produced by the different-colour yarns with the given weave.produced by the different-colour yarns with the given weave.

Factors affecting the cost of Factors affecting the cost of Woven FabricsWoven Fabrics

Fabric costsFabric costs

The selling price of a fabric is based upon the The selling price of a fabric is based upon the cost to produce it as well as the demand for the cost to produce it as well as the demand for the cloth.cloth.

Fabric is bought and sold both in the unfinished Fabric is bought and sold both in the unfinished and finished states.and finished states.

The following are some of factors that affect the The following are some of factors that affect the cost of producing woven fabrics:cost of producing woven fabrics:

Fabric CostsFabric Costs1) Fibre content1) Fibre content

The cost of fibers is based upon quality as well The cost of fibers is based upon quality as well as generic type. as generic type.

Pima cotton is more expensive than Peeler Pima cotton is more expensive than Peeler cotton since it is better-quality fibre.cotton since it is better-quality fibre.

Polyester is more expensive than acetate Polyester is more expensive than acetate because of the higher cost of production. because of the higher cost of production. Antron III nylon costs more than regular nylon Antron III nylon costs more than regular nylon for the same reason.for the same reason.

Fabric Cost Fabric Cost 2) Yarn type2) Yarn type

The cost of yarns is based upon fiber content and the type of yarn.The cost of yarns is based upon fiber content and the type of yarn. Novelty yarns are more expensive to produce than regular type.Novelty yarns are more expensive to produce than regular type. High twist spun yarns cost more than low-twist spun yarns of the High twist spun yarns cost more than low-twist spun yarns of the

same yarn size because the former take longer to produce.same yarn size because the former take longer to produce. Thinner spun yarns are more expensive than thicker yarns.Thinner spun yarns are more expensive than thicker yarns. Worsted yarn is more expensive than woolen yarn because of Worsted yarn is more expensive than woolen yarn because of

additional production steps are required.additional production steps are required. Lighter weight filament polyester yarn (lower denier) is more Lighter weight filament polyester yarn (lower denier) is more

expensive than heavier polyester yarn composed of same number expensive than heavier polyester yarn composed of same number of filament fibers.of filament fibers.

Ply yarn is more costly than an equivalent size single yarn Ply yarn is more costly than an equivalent size single yarn because both thinner yarns and plying process are requiredbecause both thinner yarns and plying process are required

Fabric CostsFabric Costs3) Construction3) Construction

The weave used is an important cost factor.The weave used is an important cost factor. A jacquard design costs more than a plain, twill or satin weave A jacquard design costs more than a plain, twill or satin weave

because of additional preliminary and loom set-up costs, the because of additional preliminary and loom set-up costs, the lower production of jacquard loom.lower production of jacquard loom.

The fabric yarns per inch must be considered.The fabric yarns per inch must be considered. A fabric with greater warp and weft yarns per inch will cost A fabric with greater warp and weft yarns per inch will cost

more than one with fewer yarns since it has greater yarn content.more than one with fewer yarns since it has greater yarn content. In case of weft yarns per inch, the more picks per inch in the In case of weft yarns per inch, the more picks per inch in the

fabric, the fewer yards of fabric per hour are produced. fabric, the fewer yards of fabric per hour are produced. The number of yarns per inch and type of yarns used in fabric The number of yarns per inch and type of yarns used in fabric

affect the fabric weight of the fabric.affect the fabric weight of the fabric. Therefore, fabric weight directly affects the cost of woven fabric.Therefore, fabric weight directly affects the cost of woven fabric.

DiscussionDiscussion

Name three types of woven design.Name three types of woven design. What is colour-and-weave effect for woven What is colour-and-weave effect for woven

design?design? What are the factors that affecting the woven What are the factors that affecting the woven

fabric costs?fabric costs?

DiscussionDiscussion

Which of these two fabrics would be more Which of these two fabrics would be more costly to produce, assuming they are identical in costly to produce, assuming they are identical in all other aspects (e.g. fiber content)? Explainall other aspects (e.g. fiber content)? Explain– Fabric A: 120 X 80Fabric A: 120 X 80– Fabric B: 110 X 90Fabric B: 110 X 90