World’s Best AffordAble beAchessubscription-assets.timeinc.com/prod/assets/themes/... · rock), the town of manzanita has a laid-back surfer vibe and an almost impossibly broad

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driving across the cape cod canal—the thin strip of water that separates this 70-mile-long peninsula from mainland massachusetts—is like entering a summer wonderland. Perhaps no town better embodies the timeless charms of this atlantic coast getaway than chatham, with its white picket fences and quaint main street. settle in at the Captain’s House Inn (369-377 Old Harbor Rd., Chatham; 800/315-0728 or 508/945-0127; captainshouse inn.com; doubles from $260), made up of a 19th-century Greek revival mansion, a carriage house, and con-

verted stables. or book the romantic salt Box cottage at eastham’s Whalewalk Inn & Spa (220 Bridge Rd.; 800/440-1281 or 508/255-0617; whalewalkinn.com; doubles from $220). some of the best bets for din-ing are also the most casual options, such as Liam’s at Nauset Beach (239 Beach Rd., East Orleans; 508/255-3474; lunch for two $30), set right on the sand and known for its addictive onion rings and fried clams. T+L TIP For the perfect beach picnic, pick up lobster rolls at Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Bar (3580 State Hwy.; 508/255-2575; lunch for two $30).

CAPE COD, MASSACHUSETTS AN ALL-AmerICAN CLASSIC

OREGON COAST WILd, WILd WeSt CoASt

rain lashes the surf and patches of beach grass outnumber sunbathers on this dramatic northern stretch of oregon’s totally public shoreline. twenty minutes south of cannon Beach (and its iconic Haystack rock), the town of manzanita has a laid-back surfer vibe and an almost impossibly broad beach. a couple of blocks from the water, Coast Cabins (635 Laneda Ave., Manzanita; 800/435-1269 or 503/368-7113; coastcabins.com; doubles from $215) consists of five modern cottages with featherbeds and teak loungers. Browse the mom-and-pop shops

along laneda avenue, then get on Highway 101 for a straight shot down the coast to lincoln city, where the 141-room Surftides (2945 N.W. Jetty Ave., Lincoln City; 800/452-2159; surftideslincolncity.com; doubles from $134) was updated by the same folks who run the hip Farmer’s daughter Hotel, in los angeles. T+L TIP come mealtime, head to nearby neskowin and the Hawk Creek Café (4505 Salem Ave., Neskowin; 503/392-3838; dinner for two $60), which serves lumberjack-worthy breakfasts and tasty pizzas and clam chowder.

affordable beaches USA

A Cape Cod National Seashore beach.

Chatham’s main Street.

Crab cakes at Hawk Creek Café, in Neskowin.

Whalewalk Inn & Spa, in eastham.

Cannon Beach’s Haystack rock.

A cottage at Coast Cabins, in manzanita.


all is serene on the westernmost point of Jamaica, where limestone cliffs jut up from a tranquil bay. this staggering stretch of coastline is a draw for bargain-minded travelers in search of clear, sapphire-blue coves and sunset views. Just minutes from seven mile Beach, the cliffside rockhouse Hotel (West End Rd.; 876/957-4373; rockhousehotel.com; doubles from $160) is nothing like the sealed, all-inclusive compounds that occupy much of the island, though you’d still be hard-pressed to leave the premises. there’s plenty to please the indolent (book the

hot-rock massage at the spa) as well as the adventurous (leap into the snorkel-worthy waters of Pristine cove, right outside your bedroom door). also at negril’s far western end, tensing Pen (West End Rd.; 800/957-0387; tensingpen.com; doubles from $195) has 21 rustic- refined rooms with lazy fans to stir the sultry air. T+L TIP a short walk south, rick’s Café (West End Rd.; 876/957-0380; drinks for two $14) is another spot for cliff diving, that’s a rite of passage for locals, although you may find the rastapolitan cock-tail enough of an adrenaline rush.

NEGRIL’S WEST END, JAMAICA tHe eSSeNCe of CHILL

CULEBRA, PUERTO RICOA CArIBBeAN HIdeAWAY

twenty-two miles east of Puerto rico, the sleepy island of culebra makes its sister isle, vieques, seem downright rowdy by comparison. Well off the radar for most travelers, culebra is largely uninhabited—in human terms, that is: endangered leatherback and hawksbill sea turtles nest along the water, and the island is home to one of the oldest bird refuges in the country. of the 10 beaches that ring the shore, Playa Flamenco may well be the caribbean’s most pristine. the sole town, dewey, is dotted with pastel-hued restaurants, a few framed in swaying strands of lights.

stay at Club Seabourne (State Rd. 252; 787/742-3169; clubseabourne.com; doubles from $150, including breakfast), a compound of lemon-yellow cottages with plantation-style interiors. insiders know to stop for heavenly empanadas at mamacita’s Bar & Grill (66 Calle Castelar; 787/742-0322; dinner for two $40), a friendly guesthouse and restaurant. T+L TIP the little gallery and gift shop Butiki (74 Calle Romero; butikiculebra.com; 708/935-2542) sells colorful island-made bracelets and landscape paintings by local artist evan schwarze.

affordable beaches CARIBBEAN

Cliffside massage cabanas at the rockhouse Hotel.

A boat tour around Negril cliffs.

Coconut shrimp at Club Seabourne’s restaurant.

the entrance to Culebra’s Playa flamenco.

A deluxe villa at Club Seabourne.

the North Pillar room at tensing Pen.


Free of high-rise hotels and package tours, the surfing village of sayulita feels like a flashback to a calmer, simpler mexico. the town is known for its boutique accommodations—Petit Hotel Hafa (55 Calle Revolu-ción; 52-329/291-3806; hotelhafa sayulita.com; doubles from $53), an open-air hotel with vibrant moroccan- inspired interiors, is one enchanting option. But renting a vacation house will allow you to truly fall into the laid-back rhythms of local life. thanks to an influx of expat americans and europeans, rentals are plentiful, ranging from classic palapa-roof

bungalows to beachfront villas with infinity pools. Avalos Sayulita realty (move2sayulita.com; houses from $100 per night) has more than a hundred properties. street food is a viable and delicious option, but have at least one meal by the water at don Pedro’s restaurant & Bar (2 Calle Marlin; 52-329/291-3090; dinner for two $40), which serves as sayulita’s unofficial social center. T+L TIP no trip to sayulita is complete without catching a wave. sign up for lessons at beginner-friendly Lunazul Surf School (lunazulsurfschool.com; individual lessons from $55).

SAYULITA, MEXICOA fAmILY-frIeNdLY eSCAPe

TULUM, MEXICOfrom SeA to CeNote

this yoga-centric strip of beach and jungle on the southern edge of mexico’s riviera maya was once a destination for the hippie set. But tulum has definitely graduated from its bare-bones roots. in the past 10 years, the thatched beach cabanas have made way for a few small, exquisite resorts and boutique hotels— although the bohemian spirit remains. at the five-room Coqui Coqui (Km 7.5, Carr. Tulum Ruinas Boca Paila; 52-984/155-0201; coquicoquispa.com; doubles from $270), the spa is devoted to natural therapies (try the scrub made with

sea salt and shredded coconut), and the cream-and-cocoa interiors feature beds draped with netting. order the lobster for dinner at Posada margherita (Km 5, Carr. Tulum Ruinas Boca Paila; 52-984/801- 8493; dinner for two $50), and don’t miss a nighttime tour of the tulum Archaeological Site (Km 230, State Road 307; 52-984/802-5405; tickets $15). T+L TIP the caribbean sea beckons, but you can also take the plunge at one of the Yucatan’s many freshwater caves, such as the Gran Cenote (grancenote.com), 10 minutes west of tulum.

affordable beaches MEXICO

A room at Coqui Coqui.

Looking out at the beach from a terrace at Coqui Coqui.

A store near Sayulita’s central plaza.

outside the Petit Hotel Hafa.

tuna tartare at don Pedro’s restaurant & Bar.


simple and pared-down is the name of the game on ambergris cay, a 25-mile-long island off the north-eastern coast of Belize. its main town, san Pedro, consists of just three big streets: Front, middle, and Back (as they’re commonly known by locals). at estel’s dine by the Sea (San Pedro; 011-501/226-2019; breakfast for two $19), the huevos rancheros are legendary and the sand floor stretches all the way to the beach. a mile outside town, the thatched-roof dwellings at Xanadu Island resort (San Pedro; 011-501/226-2814; xanaduresort-

belize.com; doubles from $190) surround a coconut palm–flanked pool. Friendly hotel staffers arrange activities through trusted guides, including alphonse Graniel of Lil’ Alphonse (San Pedro; 011-501/226-2814; from $25), who’ll take you on a snorkeling tour of Hol chan—a marine reserve on the second largest barrier reef in the world. T+L TIP You won’t find better entertainment than at Sunset restaurant Bar & marina (San Pedro; 011-501/226-2601; drinks for two $16), where you can feed leaping tarpon with one hand and clutch a piña colada with the other.

AMBERGRIS CAY, BELIZECArefree IN tHe troPICS

OSA PENINSULA, COSTA RICACALL of tHe juNGLe

dense with coastal rain forest, the rugged osa Peninsula attracts nature lovers with its abundant wildlife and distinctive eco-lodges. ever dreamed of staying in a tree house? at the Black turtle Lodge (011-506/2735-5005; blackturtlelodge.com; tree houses from $95 per person per night, including breakfast and din-ner), the two-bedroom cabins have decks high in the rain-forest canopy. at the tip of the osa, the Bosque del Cabo rainforest Lodge (011-506/2735-5206; bosquedelcabo. com; cabins from $160 per night per adult, including meals) has comfort-

able bungalows with outdoor show-ers and a kidney-shaped pool. the resort’s two naturalists lead night-time treks (and can show you how to spot the eyes of bats in the dark). in the town of Puerto Jiménez, stop for lunch at Corcovado marisquería (just east of the city dock; 506/8898- 2656; lunch for two $20), where locals while away the day over grilled fish and cold beer. T+L TIP lovers of exotic plants shouldn’t miss Casa orquideas (north of Golfito; 011-506/8829-1247), a six-acre botanical garden reachable only by boat and renowned for its orchids.

affordable beaches CENTRAL AMRERICAthe pool at Xanadu Island resort.

on a jeep ride through the rain forest.

A beach on drake Bay, on the osa Peninsula.

Xanadu Island resorts’s dock.

out and about in San Pedro, on Ambergris Cay.


the beaches are pebbled and the waters crystalline on the Gulf of messinia, where the seaside vil-lage of Kardamili serves as a good jumping-off point for exploring the entire mani Peninsula of Greece. Half a mile from town, elies Hotel (30-27210/73140; elieshotel.gr; doubles from $149, including breakfast) has 24 cheerful rooms and maisonettes shaded by olive trees. Notos Hotel (30-27210/73730; notoshotel.gr; doubles from $145) is made up of 14 simple apartment-style units on a hillside, with views of ritsa Beach. craving sand between your toes?

Hit the beaches in the small resort town of stoupa, 10 minutes south of Kardamili. But for sheer romance, nothing tops the Kyrimai Hotel (Gerolimenas; 30-27330/54288; kyrimai.gr; doubles from $146, including breakfast). located in a little fishing village another hour’s drive south from stoupa, the former mayor’s residence is a warren of stone stairways, arches, and court-yards that make it seem like a castle by the sea. T+L TIP For authentic Greek home cooking, head to the family-run Lela’s taverna (Kardamili; 30-27210/73541; dinner for two $35).

KARDAMILI BAY, GREECEHIStorY IN tHe LANdSCAPe

BARDAKÇI BEACH, TURKEYCooL oN tHe WAter

the Bodrum Peninsula—a swath of rock, sand, cypress, and cedar that reaches from turkey’s southwestern coast into the stained-glass blue of the aegean—has its share of opulent villas and over-the-top resorts. But near Bodrum’s crescent-shaped Bardakçi Beach, surrounded by the summer mansions of turkey’s elite, Butterfly (24 1512 Sk.; 90-252/313-8358; thebutterflybodrum.com; doubles from $200, including breakfast) is a surprisingly affordable option. the six suites mix antiques and thoughtful details like whisper-light locally made cotton sheets.

at dusk, savor a drink on one of the hotel’s candlelit garden patios, many of which have cinemascope-worthy views. then head to the marina for excellent seafood at memedof (176 Neyzen Tevfik Cad.; 90-252/313-4250; lunch for two $50) or the lamb with smoky aubergines at Kocadon (1 Saray Sokak; 90-252/316-3705; lunch for two $80). T+L TIP looking to splurge? commission a pair of custom-made sandals from Ali Güven Sandalet (38 Çarsi Mah; 90-252/313-2216; sandals from $600), a master cobbler who counts mick Jagger and madonna among his clients.

affordable beaches EUROPE

the pool at Butterfly.

A harbor scene in the Bodrum Peninsula.

fresh fish at Lela’s taverna.

entering the pool terrace at Kyrimai Hotel.

Inside Notos Hotel.

the Aegean Sea, as viewed from the peninsula.


three hours south of Bangkok, this pine tree–lined stretch of coast is free of the wandering masseurs and banana-boat operators who crowd many of the country’s beaches. You’re likely to see only the oc-casional couple strolling the sand, enjoying views of the fishing boats plying the Gulf of thailand. owned by Bangkok fashion designer Yingluck charoenying, the whimsical 12-room Brassiere Beach (210 Moo 5, Tambon Samroiyod; 66-32/630-5555; bras-sierebeach.com; doubles from $115) is a garden oasis of cool blue and whitewashed walls. thai architect

duangrit Bunnag designed X2 Kui Buri (52 Moo 13, Ao Noi, Muang; 66-2/101-1234; x2resorts.com; doubles from $135, including breakfast), a series of low-slung stone-and-wood bungalows with glass doors. Be sure to sample the flavorful street food—som tam, or spicy green-papaya salad, and honey-basted grilled chicken—dished up at the seaside shacks. T+L TIP take a beach break by exploring Khao Sam roi Yot National Park (dnp.go.th), a rugged region of limestone hills, calcite-encrusted caves, and wildlife-rich marshes just south of Pranburi.

PRANBURI, THAILANDtHe NeXt WorLd-CLASS reSort?

LANGKAWI, MALAYSIAStILL uNder tHe rAdAr

this cluster of 99 islands off malaysia’s northwestern coast (the name refers to the archipelago in general and to its largest island specifically) is a relative neophyte when it comes to tourism. though development is on the march, the main island remains a nature-lover’s paradise, swathed in mangrove and tropical rain forests and ringed with white beaches. to the southwest is Pantai cenang, a strip of talcum-white sand with a row of guesthouses and bars tucked amid coconut palms and casuarinas. Jet skis and motorboats buzz about the bay, and teenagers flock to a beach-

side food truck called tsunami Laksa (Pantai Cenang; no phone) for asam laksa (hot-and-sour fish soup with rice noodles). But just a 10-minute walk away, the allure of colonial indochina lives on at Bon ton restaurant & resort (near Pantai Cenang; 60-4/955-3643; bontonresort.com; doubles from $145, including break-fast), a small village of malay wooden stilt houses that seems straight out of a marguerite duras novel. T+L TIP at the northeastern end of the island, tanjung rhu beach is a tranquil oasis: two miles of near-deserted silver sand lapped by calm waters.

Bon ton restaurant and resort’s pool area.

X2 Kui Buri’s stone-walled spa.

affordable beaches ASIA

the private dining room at Bon ton, perched over its lagoon.

Boating in the Khao dang Canal.

A shack on Pranburi beach.


the dunes at race Point Beach on Cape Cod, massachusetts.

trAVeL+LeISure

Editor irene edWardsArt Director WendY scoField

Photo Editor BetH GarraBrantAssistant Editor KatHrYn o’sHea-evans

Reporter James JunG

PHOTOGRAPHERScedric angeles (5)

roland Bello (4)Paul costello (4)tara donne (1, 7)

christian Kerber (5)robert landau/corbis (1)Whitney lawson (cover)

anne menke (3)morgan & owens (2)

martin morrell (5)david nicolas (2)ryan Phillips (1)

andrew rowat (6)scott Woodward (6)

AmericA’s Top

ciTies Boston new York washington, D.C. nashville new orleans MiaMii

ChiCago austin Denver PortlanD san FranCisCo los angelesi


it may be steeped in history, but america’s first city is constantly reinventing itself. For proof, look to the north end, Boston’s little italy—long cut off from Beantown proper until the mega-construction project known as the Big dig reconnected the somewhat isolated peninsula to downtown. now the city’s oldest residential neighborhood is enjoy-ing a food and fashion renaissance. You’ll find an irresistible pulled-pork sandwich at Volle Nolle (351 Hanover St.; 617/523-0003; lunch for two $25) and an impeccable raw bar at Neptune Oyster (63 Salem St.; 617/742-3474; dinner for two $110).

new england’s most classic pie still reigns supreme at 84-year-old Pizzeria Regina (11½ Thacher St.; 617/227-0765; dinner for two $16). save room for the Florentine cannoli from the family-run Mike’s Pastry (300 Hanover St.; 617/742-3050; mikespastry.com; dessert for two $8). then hit the boutiques: check out the feminine frocks at Twilight (12 Fleet St.; 617/523-8008) and carefully curated home furnishings at Acquire (61 Salem St.; 857/362-7380). T+L TIP test your bocce skills against the old-timers convers-ing in italian at Langone Park (on Commercial St. near Charter St.).

Owner Alison Barnard at Twilight.

BOSTON A NeighBORhOOd ReViVAL NEW YORK CITY AN AfTeR-hOuRs cRAwL

in the town that famously never sleeps, the nightlife scene is more vibrant than ever. an innovative breed of cocktail bars dominates the landscape below 14th street, featuring elaborate drinks and Prohibition-era atmosphere. at hush-hush PdT, or Please don’t Tell (113 St. Mark’s Place; 212/614-0386; drinks for two $28), patrons enter through a phone booth hidden in an adjacent hot-dog joint. discerning doormen rule the roost at death & co. (433 E. Sixth St.; 212/388-0882; drinks for two $28), where tattooed mixologists craft old Fashioneds by the glow of crystal chandeliers. the

vibe is much more democratic—think communal picnic tables and pitchers of Bitburger Premium Pils—at the open-air standard Biergarten (848 Washington St.; 212/645-4646; drinks for two $16) underneath the elevated High line park. imbibe to the latest live music at indie-rock meccas the Bowery Ballroom (6 Delancey St.; 212/533-2111; boweryballroom.com) and (Le) Poisson Rouge (158 Bleecker St.; 212/505-3474; lepoissonrouge.com). T+L TIP spiff up for dinner with a happy-hour shave at the Blind Barber (339 E. 10th St.; 212/228-2123; cuts from $40), where a trim comes with a complimentary cocktail.

top cities

Neptune Oyster’s seafood platter.

home furnishings at Acquire.

Rock band the Albertans at (Le) Poisson Rouge.

upcoming shows at (Le) Poisson Rouge.

Along the Bowery, in downtown New York.


Forget any preconceived notions of stuffy politicos and boring Beltway society shindigs. these days, d.c. is full of fresh energy—and even the H street corridor, a onetime commer-cial strip that deteriorated after the city’s 1968 riots, has recently roared back to life. capitol Hill staffers flock to the snug gastropub granville Moore’s (1238 H St. NE; 202/399-2546; dinner for two $60) for the sautéed-then-steamed moules frites. industry gallery (1358 Florida Ave. NE; 202/399-1730; industrygallerydc.com), run by a tax attorney with a love of avant-garde art, displays installations by the likes of shlomo

Harush and nacho carbonell. the area’s creative heart is the Atlas Performing Arts center (1333 H St. NE; 202/399-7993; atlasarts.org), which hosts classical concerts and modern dance. and the party goes late at Jimmy valentine’s Lonely hearts club (1103 Bladensburg Rd. NE; drinks for two $15), an unmarked joint where ex-mayor marion Barry is rumored to have cut loose. T+L TIP the ironically named h street country club (1335 H St. NE; 202/399-4722), a restaurant and bar popular with the Georgetown set, has an indoor mini-golf course dotted with d.c. landmarks.

WASHINGTON, D.C. The New gAMe iN TOwN NASHVILLE, TENN. A ViNTAge ViBe

the capital of country music is undergoing a chart-topping trans- formation thanks to a slew of hip shops, haute restaurants, and good old-fashioned cocktail bars. to soak in the city’s exuberant spirit, base yourself at the hermitage hotel (231 Sixth Ave. N.; 888/888-9414; doubles from $339), a century-old icon whose roster of guests includes Greta Garbo and al capone. retrofit your look at Venus & Mars—The showroom (2009 Belmont Blvd.; 615/915-4846), where model Karen elson and co-owner amy Patterson sell christian dior men’s suits for $150 and 1950’s party dresses for less than

$100. elson’s husband, rocker Jack White, is the brains behind Third Man Records & Novelties (623 Seventh Ave. S.; 615/891-4393; thirdman records.com)—part studio, part music shop. come happy hour, the place to be is the speakeasy- inspired Patterson house (1711 Division St.; 615/636-7724; drinks for two $22), whose concoctions (try the gin-and- rosewater- spiked Juliet & romeo) are served over eight different kinds of twice-filtered ice. T+L TIP on monday nights, elson likes to catch the weekly set by Western swing legends the Time Jumpers at the station inn (402 12th Ave. S.; 615/255-3307).

top cities

A shlomo harush installation at industry gallery.

Atlas Performing Arts center.

granville Moore’s moules frites and Belgian beer.

Venus & Mars— The showroom.

Third Man Records & Novelties.

Patterson house.


in a city synonymous with good food, it’s hard to know where to begin. start with breakfast at Mother’s (401 Poydras St.; 504/523-9656; breakfast for two $20), where waitresses are just as quick to call you darlin’ as they are to bring plates of grits and debris (roast beef edges in gravy) to your Formica-topped table. move on to the best po’ boy in town at Parkway Bakery & Tavern (538 Hagan Ave.; 504/482-3047; lunch for two $20), which serves its rendition “dressed” (lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, and pickles) on new orleans–style French bread from the celebrated leiden-heimer Bakery. if it’s creole you crave,

clubby galatoire (209 Bourbon St.; 504/525-2021; lunch for two $60) has your fix—regulars get the “grand goute,” a seafood appetizer trio featuring the restaurant’s signature shrimp rémoulade. James Beard award–winning chef John Besh has forged relationships with artisanal producers and area farmers; taste the fruits of their labors at August (301 Tchoupitoulas St.; 504/299-9777; dinner for two $100). T+L TIP addicted to the beignets at café du Monde (800 Decatur St.; 504/581-2914; three beignets $2.35)? Bring home their boxed mix to make them in your own kitchen.

NEW ORLEANS A gLuTTON’s gRANd TOuR MIAMI A hOTeL hOTBed

spotlight-grabbing accommoda-tions are nothing new in miami, home to larger-than-life hotels since the 1950’s. But now the glamour quotient is at an all-time high, spurred by a thriving art scene and a revitalized downtown. located in a business-district high-rise, the Viceroy Miami (485 Brickell Ave.; 866/781-9923 or 305/503-4400; viceroymiami.com; doubles from $245) is full of eccentric flourishes from interior designer Kelly Wearstler. at the Mondrian in south Beach (1100 West Ave.; 800/697-1791 or 305/514-1500; mondrian-miami.com; doubles from $275), dutch de-signer marcel Wanders helped create

a fantasy world with a few sly twists (like a chandelier that turns out to be a showerhead). and at the 312-room w south Beach (2201 Collins Ave.; 888/625-4985; wsouthbeach.com; doubles from $459), art by damien Hirst and christopher Wool is juxtaposed with campy brass screens that evoke miami’s heyday. T+L TIP in summer, nonguests can purchase a $25 day pass at the four seasons Miami (1435 Brickell Ave.; 800/332-3442; fourseasons.com; doubles from $300) and lounge around the two-acre pool terraces, where butlers hand out evian spritzers and even clean your sunglasses.

top cities

Parkway Bakery & Tavern.

Overlooking Biscayne Bay at the Mondrian in south Beach.

Jackson square, in the french Quarter.

crawfish and cheese agnolotti at August.

The w south Beach pool.

The spa at the Viceroy Miami, designed by Philippe starck.


Hot dogs and deep-dish pizza were just a jumping-off point; these days, the Windy city is ground zero for america’s molecular gastronomy movement. the high temple, of course, is Alinea (1723 N. Halsted St.; 312/867-0110; prix fixe menu for two $370), the setting for chef Grant achatz’s mind-bending concoc-tions. chef laurent Gras conjures his own pyrotechnics at L2O (2300 N. Lincoln Park W.; 773/868-0002; 12-course tasting menu for two $330), which showcases an impres-sive array of seafood. other culinary stars: 35-year-old curtis duffy at Avenues (Peninsula Chicago, 108

E. Superior St.; 312/573-6695; eight-course tasting menu for two $250), the enigmatic michael carlson at schwa (1466 N. Ashland Ave.; 773/252-1466; nine-course tasting menu for two $220), and Homaro cantu at Moto (945 W. Fulton Market; 312/491-0058; 10-course tasting menu for two $270), whose restaurant includes a state-of-the-art laboratory. T+L TIP if pizza’s what you’re after, a night in may be just the ticket. order a thin-crust pie to go from italian fiesta Pizzeria (1400 E. 47th St.; 773/684-2222; dinner for two $13)—the obamas’ favorite takeout joint, as rumor has it.

CHICAGO cuTTiNg-edge cuisiNe AUSTIN, TEX. iN seARch Of A ROckABiLLy gROOVe

on a quest for rollicking honky-tonk music? look no further than the capital of the biggest, baddest, brashest state in the lower 48. check in to the stylish hotel san José (1316 S. Congress Ave.; 800/574-8897 or 512/444-7322; sanjosehotel.com; doubles from $160) and get into the renegade spirit at ginny’s Little Longhorn saloon (5434 Burnet Rd.; 512/458-1813), a linoleum-floored watering hole where bottles of ice- cold lone star go down almost as fast as the house band’s roots and country sets. at the continental club (1315 S. Congress Ave.; 512/441-2444), you might see a Patsy cline

doppelgänger fronting a slide guitar band or leather-clad rockers working the crowd into a frenzy. the dance floor here is contagious. For the quintessential austin music experi-ence, head to the Broken spoke (3201 S. Lamar; 512/442-6189), a dusty roadhouse where laid-back locals and their grandparents dance to Jeff Hughes’s catchy, country-tinged covers of Billy idol, neil diamond, and the cure. T+L TIP don’t miss the jukebox at casino el camino (517 E. Sixth St.; 512/469-9330; lunch for two $18)—it’s the town’s best, with albums culled from the owner’s 5,000-disc collection.

top cities

A downtown stretch of the chicago River.

Alinea’s iconic “hot potato, cold potato” dish.

chef curtis duffy at Avenues.

upstairs at Lambert’s downtown BBQ.

Room 54 at the hotel san José.

Big-city culture is alive and well in colorado due to a couple of innovative art districts—one established, one up-and-coming—in and around denver’s compact center. the lower downtown neighborhood, or lodo, is home to McA denver (1485 Delgany St.; 303/298-7554; mcadenver.org), featuring some of the contemporary art world’s biggest names. six blocks away, the Robischon gallery (1740 Wazee St.; 303/298-7788) has been displaying groundbreaking works for more than 30 years. on the other end of the spectrum, the river north arts district, or rino, has a grittier feel—a sprawling expanse of

industrial warehouses converted into studios and exhibition spaces. a few of the best: ironton studios & gallery (3636 Chestnut Place; 303/296-5583), where metal sculptors and stone carvers work alongside painters and photogra-phers; Plus & gallery (2501 Larimer St.; 303/296-0927), in the former Benjamin moore paint factory; and weilworks (3611 Chestnut Place; 303/308-9345), whose grounds include an heirloom-tomato farm. T+L TIP check out an assortment of open studios during the First Friday art Walks, organized by both Lodo (lodo.org) and RiNo (rivernorthart.com).

DENVER AN uNexPecTed ARTisTs’ huB PORTLAND, ORE. PROgRessiVe ANd PROud

Going green is serious business in Portland, from the wealth of leed- certified buildings (the most in the country) to the emphasis on eco-friendly transportation. the Portland streetcar (503/823-2900; portlandstreetcar.org), a modern-day trolley system, makes an eight-mile circuit, including a free-ride zone that covers most of downtown. the sleek Portland Aerial Tram (portland-tram.org) yields breathtaking views of mount st. Helens and mount Hood. Pick up a single-speed cruiser from Portland Bicycle Tours (345 NW Everett St.; 503/360-6815; portland bicycletours.com; single-speed

cruisers from $20 per day), then break for a pint at hopworks urban Brewery (2944 SE Powell Blvd.; 503/232-4677; drinks for two $8.50), which offers 10 kinds of organic beer brewed in biodiesel-fired kettles. dine on mexican tapas at Trébol (4835 N. Albina Ave.; 503/517-9347; happy-hour dinner for two $18), whose produce comes from organic farmers and a rooftop garden. T+L TIP Bed down for the night at the Ace hotel (1022 SW Stark St.; 503/228-2277; acehotel.com; doubles from $140), where the mood is recycled chic—think salvaged barn doors and turntables with vintage vinyl.

top cities

A gallery at McA denver.

ironton studios & gallery. Portland’s hawthorne Bridge.

Room 308 at the Ace hotel, with a mural by local artist scrappers.



Few other cities in america can match this one for sheer beauty, so san Francisco is best explored by being outdoors. marvel at the early- morning surfers at fort Point (415/556-1693; nps.gov/fopo), a former military base that made an iconic appearance in Hitchcock’s Vertigo. thanks to an unusual break beneath the Golden Gate Bridge, it’s become a popular spot for daredevils willing to brave the choppy waves and jagged rocks. a much safer way to get in the water: on a guided tour with city kayak (South Beach Harbor at Pier 40; 415/357-1010; citykayak.com); options include a sunset paddle

or a full-moon trip. across the bridge in marin county, the birthplace of mountain biking, you can demo a full- suspension specialized from Tam Bikes (357 Miller Ave., Mill Valley; 415/389-1900; tambikes.com; all-day bike demos $80) for a day of riding through the trees around Muir woods National Monument (Mill Valley; 415/388-2596; nps.gov/muwo). T+L TIP rather take the high road? soar (nearly 2,000 feet above sea level) off mount tamalpais with an instructor from the san francisco hang gliding center (1116 Wrigley Way, Milpitas; 510/528-2300; sfhanggliding.com; tandem flights from $295).

SAN FRANCISCO gOLdeN gATe AdVeNTuRe LOS ANGELES The ediBLe MeLTiNg POT

With its countless immigrant popula-tions, l.a. is both the least obviously and most definitively american city. it’s also, right now, one of the most exciting places in the nation to eat. this is a town where the humble taco is celebrated, from the tradi-tional lengua de res (tender stewed beef tongue in tomatillo sauce) at landmark Lotería grill (6627 Hollywood Blvd.; 323/465-2500; lunch for two $24) to the Korean-in-spired version from funky food truck kogi (kogibbq.com; lunch for two $11). silver lake hipsters and hard-core vietnamese-food devotees pack the cramped space at Phŏ café

(2841 W. Sunset Blvd.; 213/413-0888; lunch for two $25) for outsize bowls of fragrant noodle soups. For thai, nothing tops the fiery fare at Jitlada (5233½ Sunset Blvd.; 323/663-3104; lunch for two $25). Hunker down over small plates of braised pork belly and grilled yellowtail collar at izayoi (132 S. Central Ave.; 213/613-9554; snacks from $3), a convivial little tokyo tavern where the shochu, sake, and cold beer flow well into the night. T+L TIP track the whereabouts of l.a.’s beloved food trucks at roaminghunger.com/la, a blog that aggregates each truck’s twitter feed and maps their current locations.

top citiesThe golden gate Bridge, looking north toward Marin county.

Redwood trees in Muir woods.

The kitchen at Phŏ café.

A bowl of noodles at Phŏ café.

The bar at Loteria grill.


An autumn stroll in Portland, Oregon.

TRAVeL+LeisuRe

Editor irene edWardsArt Director WendY scoField

Photo Editor BetH GarraBrantAssistant Editor KatHrYn o’sHea-evans

Reporter James JunG

PHOTOGRAPHERScaroline allison (2)reena Bammi (1)lily Becker (3)

Joao canziani (4, 5, 7)andrea Fazzari (1)

michael Halberstadt/alamy (6)eric Johnson (2)lara Kastner (4)

dean Kaufman (3)max Kim-Bee (cover)amanda marsalis (6)marcus nilsson (3)

ed reeve/view/corbis (5)Jonny valiant (4)

coral von Zumwalt (6)

favoriteitalian recıpes

for more amazing recipes like these, go to foodandwine.com2

favorite italian recipes

Fennel and aged Pecorino Salad total: 20 min 6 s e r v i n g s

This crisp salad combines fennel, scallions and

parsley with shavings of sharp, salty aged

pecorino cheese; the pecorino from the small

Tuscan town of Pienza is especially tasty.

1» tablespoons red wine vinegar

¥ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 large fennel bulbs (2 pounds)—

halved, cored and very thinly

sliced, fronds reserved

2 scallions, white and green parts,

thinly sliced

» cup flat-leaf parsley leaves

5 ounces aged pecorino, shaved

(2 cups)

In a large bowl, whisk the red wine vinegar and

the olive oil; season generously with salt and

pepper. Add the sliced fennel, scallions, parsley

leaves and shaved pecorino and toss the salad

gently. Transfer the salad to plates, garnish with

the fennel fronds and serve right away. —Rolando

Beramendi

wine Floral Vernaccia di San Gimignano: 2008

Teruzzi & Puthod Rondolino.



Pinzimonio with tonnato Sauce total: 20 min 6 servings

Pinzimonio is a supersimple dish of raw vege

tables served with seasoned olive oil for dipping.

The clever variation here replaces the olive oil

with tonnato, a creamy sauce made with tuna,

lemon and a few other ingredients.

¥ cup extra-virgin olive oil,

plus more for drizzling

One 8-ounce jar Italian tuna

in olive oil, drained

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

4 oil-packed anchovies, drained

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed

¥ cup mayonnaise

¥ pound green, Roma or

wax beans

8 Parisian round carrots or

baby carrots

4 tender celery ribs with leaves

attached, quartered crosswise

2 lemon, Persian or Kirby

cucumbers, peeled and

quartered lengthwise

2 small watermelon radishes,

cut into 8 wedges each, or

10 small radishes, halved

1 fennel bulb, cored and

cut into 16 wedges

» teaspoon coarse sea salt

1. In a food processor, combine the ¥ cup of

olive oil with the tuna, lemon juice, anchovies,

capers and mayonnaise. Process until smooth.

Scrape the tonnato sauce into a serving bowl,

cover and refrigerate.

2. In a pot of boiling salted water, cook the beans

until crisptender, 2 minutes. Drain and rinse under

cold water; pat dry.

3. Arrange the beans, carrots, celery, cucumbers,

radishes and fennel on a platter; sprinkle with

the sea salt. Drizzle the tonnato with olive oil;

serve with the vegetables. —Nate Appleman

wine Crisp, herbal Vermentino: 2008 Argiolas

Costamolino.



hearty mineStrone SouP active: 30 min; total: 3 hr 30 min plus overnight soaking 4 s e r v i n g s

This satisfying vegetablebean soup uses a little

bit of pancetta for porky flavor. All those beans

make the soup a great source of fiber.

1¥ cups dried white beans (8 ounces),

soaked overnight and drained

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 ounces pancetta, finely diced

2 medium shallots, minced

2 large celery ribs, finely diced

1 medium onion, finely diced

1 large carrot, finely diced

» fennel bulb, cored and diced

4 garlic cloves, minced

» teaspoon crushed red pepper

2 bay leaves

2 tablespoons tomato paste

One 14-ounce can plum tomatoes,

chopped, juices reserved

1 quart low-sodium chicken broth


1 cup baby arugula

» cup flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1. In a pot, cover the beans with 2 inches of

water and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat

until tender, about 2 hours; add water to keep

the beans covered. Drain the beans and reserve

the cooking liquid.

2. Meanwhile, in another pot, heat 2 tablespoons

of the oil. Add the pancetta and cook over mod

erate heat until crisp, 4 minutes. Add the shallots,

celery, onion, carrot and fennel, and cook until

softened. Add the garlic, crushed pepper and

bay leaves and cook, stirring, until fragrant. Add

the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 2 min

utes. Stir in the tomatoes, juices and broth; bring

to a boil. Simmer over low heat for 1 hour. Add

the beans and enough cooking liquid to thin out

the soup. Discard the bay leaves; season with

salt and pepper.

3. In a bowl, toss the arugula and parsley with

the lemon juice and remaining 1 tablespoon of

oil. Season with salt and pepper. Serve the soup

in bowls; top with the salad. —David Bull

wine Vibrant Barbera: 2007 Vietti Tre Vigne.



artichoke-and- Fontina PizzaS total: 30 min plus overnight marinating m a kes two 10 - i n c h p i z zas

Cookbook author Eugenia Bone uses frozen

artichokes for this recipe, thawing them then

marinating them overnight in olive oil with gar

lic, herbs and lemon juice before scattering

them on pizzas. To save time, use storebought

marinated artichokes.

16 ounces frozen artichoke hearts,

thawed and drained

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

2 garlic cloves, smashed

2 thyme sprigs

2 rosemary sprigs

1 bay leaf

1 small dried chile pepper

Salt

Cornmeal, for dusting

Two 8-ounce balls of

store-bought pizza dough

2» cups coarsely grated imported

Fontina cheese

Freshly ground pepper

1. In a medium bowl, combine the artichoke

hearts with 1 cup of the olive oil, the lemon juice,

garlic, thyme, rosemary, bay leaf and chile pepper.

Season with salt. Cover and refrigerate the

artichokes overnight or for up to 3 days.

2. Preheat the oven to 425°. Dust a work surface

with cornmeal and roll out each piece of pizza

dough to a 10inch round. Transfer to baking

sheets. Drizzle the rounds with the remaining

1 tablespoon of olive oil. Bake for about 8 minutes,

until the dough looks dry and bubbles appear

on the surface. Remove from the oven.

3. Chop the artichokes into bitesize pieces;

drain them on paper towels. Sprinkle the Fontina

over the pizzas; distribute the artichokes over

the cheese. Season with salt and pepper; return

the pizzas to the oven. Bake for about 10 minutes,

until the edges are browned. Serve hot.

—Eugenia Bone

wine Lively Sauvignon Blanc: 2008 Andrian

Floreado.



Summer Farro Salad total: 30 min 8 servings

Farro, the nutty Italian grain, is delightful in this

fast recipe, but you can swap in any starch, such

as bread or pasta.

¬ cup plus 2 tablespoons

extra-virgin olive oil

1 small yellow onion, quartered

1 small carrot, halved

1 celery rib, halved

12 ounces farro (1‚ cups)

5 cups water

Kosher salt

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar


» small red onion, thinly sliced

1 small seedless cucumber,

halved lengthwise and thinly

sliced crosswise

1 pint grape tomatoes, halved

¥ cup chopped fresh basil

1. In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of

the oil. Add the yellow onion, carrot and celery,

cover and cook over moderately low heat until

barely softened, about 5 minutes. Add the farro

and stir to coat with oil. Add the water and bring

to a boil. Cover and sim mer over low heat until

the farro is barely tender, about 10 minutes;

season with salt. Cover and simmer until the

farro is al dente, about 10 minutes longer. Drain

the farro and discard the onion, carrot and cel

ery. Let cool completely.

2. In a large bowl, whisk the remaining ¬ cup

of olive oil with the vinegar and season with salt

and pepper. Fold in the farro, red onion, cucumber,

tomatoes and basil, season with salt and pepper

and serve. —Marco Canora

wine Cherryinflected Italian rosé: 2008 Cataldi

Madonna Cerasuolo.



carrot-Potato gnocchi with cheeSe active: 30 min; total: 1 hr 30 min 4 to 6 s e r v i n g s

The pureed carrots in these soft and pillowy

gnocchi give them a lovely sweetness and a very

pretty color, too.

2 pounds baking potatoes

(about 4)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

4 carrots, thinly sliced

Salt

2 large egg yolks

» cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose

flour, plus more for dusting

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

Freshly ground black pepper

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Pierce the potatoes

all over with a fork. Bake in a microwave oven

at high power for 10 minutes, then flip the potatoes

and microwave for 5 minutes longer. Transfer

the potatoes to the oven and bake for 15 minutes.

Alternatively, bake the potatoes in the oven for

about 1 hour, until tender.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium skillet, heat the oil.

Add the carrots and cook over moderate heat for

2 minutes. Add ¥ cup water and a pinch of salt.

Cover and cook until the carrots are tender, about

15 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and

puree until smooth.

3. Halve the potatoes. Scoop the flesh into a ricer

and rice the potatoes. Transfer 2 slightly packed

cups of riced potatoes to a bowl. Add » cup of

the carrot puree. Stir in the egg yolks and 1 tea

spoon of salt. Add the flour; stir until a stiff dough

forms. Knead the dough gently until smooth but

slightly sticky.

4. Line a baking sheet with wax paper and dust

with flour. On a floured surface, cut the dough

into 4 pieces, rolling each into a ‚inchthick

rope. Cut the ropes into ‚inch pieces. Roll each

piece against the tines of a fork to make ridges;

transfer to the baking sheet.

5. In a large, deep skillet of simmering salted

water, cook the gnocchi until they rise to the

surface, then simmer for 2 minutes longer. In a

large nonstick skillet, melt the butter. Using

a slotted spoon, add the gnocchi to the butter.

Season with salt and pepper and cook over high

heat for 1 minute. Sprinkle with the cheese and

serve. —Grace Parisi

make ahead The uncooked gnocchi pieces can

be frozen on the prepared baking sheet, then

transferred to a resealable plastic bag and frozen

for up to 1 month. Boil without defrosting.

wine Lively Dolcetto d’Alba: 2007 Roagna.



claSSic meatballS total: 20 min makes 28 meatballs

These meatballs combine ground beef, pork

and veal. The pork and veal help lighten the

texture, while the mix of meats makes the meat

balls superflavorful.

¬ pound ground beef

¬ pound ground pork

¬ pound ground veal

1 garlic clove, minced

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

In a large bowl, combine the meat, garlic, salt

and pepper until mixed. Roll the mixture into

1inch balls. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the

olive oil. Brown the meatballs over moderately

high heat, turning occasionally, until they are

cooked all the way through, about 7 minutes.

—Alison Attenborough

make ahead The meatballs can be cooked up

to 2 days in advance.

wine Earthy Sangiovese: 2007 Querciabella

Chianti Classico.

SuPeRSIze meaTballSStart with 1½ pounds mixed ground beef, pork

and veal. Mix in ¼ cup bread crumbs soaked in

¼ cup milk, ½ small minced onion, 2 minced

garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley,

1 teaspoon minced oregano, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon

salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Form into 4 balls.

Brown in olive oil. Add 3½ cups marinara, cover

and simmer for 30 minutes. Serve with spaghetti

and Parmesan cheese. Makes 4 servings.



PaPPardelle with Veal ragù active: 30 min; total: 2 hr 45 min 8 s e r v i n g s

This ragù is lusty and delicious. The veal gets

wonderfully tender while it braises in the rich,

winey tomato sauce.

3» to 4 pounds boneless veal shoulder,

cut into 3-inch chunks


all-purpose flour, for dusting

» cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 large sweet onion, finely chopped


1» teaspoons ground coriander

1» teaspoons ground fennel

1» cups dry red wine

Two 28-ounce cans Italian whole

tomatoes, drained and chopped

4 cups chicken or veal stock

1» tablespoons minced rosemary

2 pounds fresh pappardelle

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1. Season the veal with salt and pepper and

dust with flour, tapping off the excess. In a large

enameled castiron casserole, heat ¥ cup of

the olive oil. Add the veal and cook over moderately

high heat until browned all over, about 12 minutes.

Transfer the veal to a plate.

2. Add the remaining ¥ cup of oil to the casserole.

Stir in the onion, garlic, coriander and fennel and

cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Add the wine

and boil until reduced to ¬ cup, 5 minutes. Add

the tomatoes and cook over moderately high heat

for 5 minutes. Add the stock and rosemary and

bring to a boil. Add the veal, cover partially and

cook over low heat until very tender, 2 hours.

3. Remove the meat and shred it. Boil the sauce

until slightly reduced, about 10 minutes. Stir in

the meat.

4. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook

the pappardelle until al dente. Drain and return

to the pot. Add the ragù and toss over low heat

until the pasta is coated. Serve with cheese at

the table. —Grace Parisi

wine Cherryrich Chianti Classico: 2005 Il

Molino di Grace.



italian SeaFood Stew active: 45 min; total: 1 hr 45 min 6 s e r v i n g s

In this luscious, tomatorich stew, NYC chef

Marco Canora cooks calamari slowly until it

becomes supertender. He says calamari is essen

tial to the success of the dish, because it releases

its liquid as it simmers, which adds a huge

amount of flavor to the sauce. “I’m a big fan of

substitutions,” he says, “but not in this case.”

» cup extra-virgin olive oil,


1 fennel bulb, cored and chopped

2 celery ribs, finely chopped

1 white onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon dried oregano

Pinch of crushed red pepper

1» pounds cleaned squid—

bodies cut into »-inch rings,

tentacles halved

2 cups dry white wine

One 28-ounce can tomato puree

2 lemons—zest of one peeled in

strips with a vegetable peeler,

zest of the other finely grated

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups water

1 cup bottled clam broth

12 ounces mussels, scrubbed

12 ounces littleneck clams, scrubbed

12 ounces shelled and deveined

large shrimp

12 ounces skinless striped bass fillet,

cut into 2-by-1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

1. In a very large, enameled castiron casserole

or Dutch oven, heat the » cup of olive oil. Add

the fennel, celery, onion, oregano and crushed

red pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring

frequently, until the vegetables are softened,

about 15 minutes. Add the squid and cook over

moderately low heat for 15 minutes, stirring

occasionally.

2. Stir in the wine and bring to a boil over moder

ately high heat. Cook until evaporated, about

20 minutes. Stir in the tomato puree and strips

of lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper and

cook over very low heat, stirring occasionally,

until very thick, about 40 minutes.

3. Add the water and clam broth and bring to

a boil. Remove and discard the lemon zest.

Season the broth with salt and pepper. Add the

mussels, clams and shrimp, cover and cook until

most of the shells have opened, about 5 minutes.

Add the striped bass and cook until opaque,

about 2 minutes longer.

4. In a small bowl, combine the parsley with the

grated lemon zest. Spoon the stew into deep

bowls and sprinkle with the gremolata. Drizzle

with olive oil and serve. —Marco Canora

serve with Garlicrubbed toasts.

wine Minerally Ligurian white: 2008 Colle dei

Bardellini Pigato.



Sautéed chicken with oliVeS and lemonS total: 35 min 4 servings

This piquant dish from chef Lidia Bastianich’s

Missouri restaurant, Lidia’s Kansas City, is one

of our favorite ways to prepare skinless chicken

breasts.

2 lemons, sliced ¥ inch thick




Four 6-ounce skinless, boneless

chicken breast halves

all-purpose flour, for dusting

» cup pitted green Sicilian or

Spanish olives, sliced

2 tablespoons drained capers

1 cup chicken stock or

low-sodium broth

3 tablespoons unsalted butter,

cut into small dice

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Line a baking sheet

with lightly oiled parchment paper. Arrange

the lemon slices on the paper in a single layer.

Lightly drizzle the slices with oil and season

with salt and pepper. Roast for about 20 min

utes, until the slices begin to brown around the

edges.

2. In a medium, deep skillet, heat the ¥ cup of

olive oil. Season the chicken breasts with salt

and pepper and dust them with flour, shaking

off the excess. Cook the chicken over high heat,

turning once, until the breasts are golden, about

6 minutes.

3. Add the olives, capers and stock to the skil

let and bring to a boil. Cook over high heat until

the stock is reduced to ¬ cup, about 5 minutes.

Add the roasted lemons, butter and parsley,

season with salt and pepper and simmer just

until the chicken is cooked through, about 1

minute. Transfer the chicken to plates and serve.

—Lidia Bastianich

serve with Sautéed baby spinach.

wine Citrusy MullerThurgau: 2007 Abbazia di

Novacella.



Pork choPS with green PePPercorn Sauce active: 45 min; total: 1 hr 45 min 4 s e r v i n g s

La Locanda della Ribollita in Chiusi, Italy, serves

succulent pork chops wrapped in thin layers

of lardo (cured pork fat). If lardo is hard to find,

substitute pancetta (cured pork belly rolled into

a log); unfurl the slices into long strips before

wrapping the chops.

eight 6-inch-long rosemary branches

4 garlic cloves—2 minced, 2 crushed


Four ¾-inch-thick boneless pork chops


8 very thin slices of lardo

(see Note) or unrolled pancetta

» cup dry white wine

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

⅛ teaspoon crushed red pepper

2 tablespoons green peppercorns

in brine, rinsed

1. Using your fingers, strip off the leaves from

the bottom 4 inches of the rosemary branches

and finely chop enough leaves to make 2 table

spoons. In a large, shallow dish, mix the chopped

rosemary with the minced garlic and ¼ cup of

the oil. Season the pork chops with salt and black

pepper, add to the marinade and turn to coat. Let

stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

2. Wrap 2 slices of the lardo around the edge

of each pork chop and secure with a toothpick.

On the side opposite the toothpick, skewer

each of the chops with 2 stripped rosemary

branches.

3. In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the

olive oil. Add the pork chops and cook over

moderately high heat until richly browned on

the bottom, about 3 minutes. Turn the chops

and cook over moderate heat until browned on

the second side and just cooked through, about

4 minutes longer. Transfer the pork chops to a

platter and keep warm.

4. Pour off the fat in the skillet and add the

remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the

crushed garlic and cook over moderately high

heat until golden brown, about 1 minute. Add

the wine and boil over high heat, scraping up

the browned bits from the bottom of the skillet,

until reduced to 2 tablespoons. Add the chicken

broth, grated lemon zest and crushed red pep

per and boil until reduced to » cup, about 8

minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the

brined green peppercorns. Season with salt and

black pepper. Remove the toothpicks from the

pork. Spoon the sauce over the chops and serve.

—Matt Molina

note Lardo is available at Italian markets and

specialtyfood shops.

wine Juicy, plummy Merlot: 2007 Falesco.



Vanilla zabaglione with raSPberrieS active: 30 min; total: 1 hr 30 min 1 0 s e r v i n g s

The ethereal Italian dessert sauce zabaglione

(known in French as sabayon) consists of egg

yolks beaten with sugar and the Sicilian fortified

dessert wine Marsala. Steeping vanilla seeds

in the Marsala adds lovely flavor; folding in whipped

cream increases the decadence factor.

1 cup marsala

1 cup sugar

1 vanilla bean, split and

seeds scraped

1 dozen large egg yolks

1 cup heavy cream

2» cups brandied cherries or

amaretto cherries

5 cups raspberries

1. In a small saucepan, whisk the Marsala with

the sugar and vanilla bean seeds and bring to

a boil. Remove from the heat.

2. Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of

water to a simmer; turn the heat to moderately

low. Fill a large bowl with ice water. In a large

stainless steel bowl, whisk or beat the egg yolks

at low speed to break them up. Gradually add

the hot Marsala mixture and beat until smooth.

3. Set the bowl over the simmering water. Beat

the egg yolk mixture until it is hot and foamy

and leaves a ribbon trail when the beaters are

lifted, about 10 minutes. Don’t cook the zaba

glione for too long, or it will curdle. Transfer the

bowl to the ice water bath and let stand, whisking

the zabaglione occasionally, until cooled. Cover

and refrigerate for about 1 hour, until thoroughly

chilled.

4. In another large stainless steel bowl, whip

the cream to form firm peaks. Fold the whipped

cream into the chilled zabaglione. Spoon the

cherries into rocks glasses or bowls. Top with the

zabaglione and raspberries and serve. —Taylor

Boetticher

serve with Amaretti cookies.

make ahead The zabaglione can be refriger

ated overnight. Fold in the whipped cream just

before serving.

wine Sweet, berryscented sparkling wine:

Banfi Rosa Regale.

favoritegrilling

recıpes


favorite grilling recipes

Cheese-stuffed grilled PePPers total: 30 min 4 servings

This snack is fun to make at barbecues using all

types of medium-sized peppers: As the peppers

blister, the cheese mixture tucked inside turns

warm and gooey.

1 cup ricotta cheese (8 ounces)

1 cup cream cheese, at room

temperature

» cup freshly grated Parmigiano-

Reggiano cheese


4 Anaheim or Cubanelle peppers

4 baby bell peppers

4 small poblano chiles

Extra-virgin olive oil, for rubbing

1. In a medium bowl, blend the ricotta with the

cream cheese and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Season

with salt and pepper.

2. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Using a small,

sharp knife, remove the stems from the peppers

and reserve. Cut around inside the peppers to

detach the membranes and remove the seeds.

Using a butter knife, fill the peppers with the

cheese mixture and reattach the tops. Rub the

peppers with olive oil.

3. Grill the peppers over moderately high heat,

turning occasionally, until blistered all over and

the cheese filling is piping hot, about 7 minutes.

Transfer the peppers to plates and serve.

—Robert Perkins and John Lancaster

make ahead The cheese-filled peppers can be

refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature

before grilling.

wine Zesty Italian Pinot Bianco: 2008 Alois

Lageder.



AsPArAgus And grilled shiitAke total: 30 min 8 to 10 servings

This early-summer side dish is based on a

recipe from chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s

New York restaurant Perry Street, where the

cooks top it with a runny poached egg.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil,


2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

2 tablespoons chopped tarragon


1½ pounds shiitake mushrooms,

stemmed and halved

2 pounds thin asparagus

1. Light a grill. In a small bowl, mix the 2 table-

spoons of olive oil with the soy sauce, lemon juice,

vinegar and tarragon and season with salt and

pepper.

2. Brush the shiitake with 2 tablespoons of the

soy vinaigrette; season with salt and pepper. Grill

over moderate heat, turning once, until just tender,

about 6 minutes. Transfer the shiitake to a bowl.

Add 4 tablespoons of the soy vinaigrette and toss

to coat.

3. Bring a large skillet of salted water to a boil.

Fill a large bowl with ice water. Add the asparagus

to the skillet and cook until crisp-tender, about

3 minutes. Transfer to the ice water to cool. Drain

and pat dry with paper towels.

4. Arrange the asparagus on a platter. Drizzle

with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Spoon the shiitake over the asparagus, drizzle

any remaining vinaigrette on top and serve right

away. —Jean-Georges Vongerichten

make ahead The soy vinaigrette, blanched

asparagus and grilled shiitake can each be

refrigerated separately overnight. Reheat the

shiitake in a 400° oven for about 4 minutes and

bring the asparagus and vinaigrette to room tem-

perature before assembling and serving.



grilled Corn with MAngo-hAbAnero butter active: 40 min; total: 1 hr 45 min 8 servings

TV chef Bobby Flay likes to cook corn on the

cob with the husk tied back into a kind of han-

dle. He soaks the bundle in cold water before

placing it on the grill for two reasons: The water

steams the kernels a little, making them tender,

and it also prevents the husk from burning.

1 mango, peeled and

coarsely chopped

¥ cup mango nectar

1 tablespoon honey

» habanero chile, seeded

1» sticks unsalted butter, softened

2 tablespoons packed cilantro

leaves, chopped

» teaspoon kosher salt

8 ears of corn

1. In a small saucepan, combine the chopped

mango with the mango nectar, honey and haba-

nero chile. Bring to a simmer and cook over

moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the

mango is very soft, about 10 minutes. Transfer

to a food processor and puree until smooth.

Strain the mango puree into a small bowl and

let cool, about 30 minutes.

2. Wipe out the food processor. Add the cooled

mango puree along with the butter, cilantro

leaves and salt and puree until smooth. Scrape

the mango butter into a small bowl, cover and

refrigerate until chilled, about 30 minutes.

3. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. Pull the corn

husks down to the base of the stalks, leaving the

husks attached. Discard the corn silk. Using

butcher string, tie back the husks. Fill a large bowl

with cold, salted water and submerge the corn

for 10 minutes.

4. Drain the corn but don’t pat dry. Grill the corn

over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until

tender and browned in spots, about 8 minutes.

Transfer the corn to plates, spread with the

mango-habanero butter and serve. —Bobby

Flay

make ahead The mango-habanero butter can

be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.



grilled shriMP sAtAy active: 1 hr; total: 4 hr 30 min 10 servings

The shrimp here is in an alluring mixture of

sautéed garlic, ginger and ground spices.

s h r i m p

1 small onion, coarsely chopped

4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

3 large stalks of fresh lemongrass,

bottom third of the tender

white inner bulb only, thinly sliced

¥ cup minced fresh ginger

» cup vegetable oil

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon kosher salt

30 large shrimp (about 1‚ pounds),

shelled and deveined

p e a n u t s a u c e

» small onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 lemongrass stalk, inner white bulb

only, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 tablespoons sambal oelek

» cup unsweetened coconut milk

1 tablespoon tamarind concentrate

1 tablespoon sugar

2» tablespoons peanut butter

1. m a k e t h e s h r i m p : In a mini food proces-

sor, combine the onion, garlic, lemongrass and

ginger and process to a paste. In a large skillet,

heat the oil. Add the onion paste to the skillet

and cook over moderately low heat, stirring

occasionally, until browned, about 25 minutes.

2. Add the ground coriander, sugar, ground fen-

nel seeds, cumin, turmeric and salt to the skillet

and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until

fragrant, about 1 minute. Scrape the spice paste

into a bowl and let cool completely.

3. In a large dish, coat the shrimp with the spice

paste. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours.

4. m a k e t h e s a u c e : In a mini food proces-

sor, process the onion, garlic and lemongrass to

a paste. In a nonstick skillet, heat the oil. Add the

paste and cook over moderately low heat, stir-

ring, until golden, 8 minutes. Add the coriander

and cook for 2 minutes. Add the sambal and cook

for 2 minutes. Add the coconut milk and boil over

high heat for 2 minutes. Stir in the remaining

ingredients and let cool. Transfer to a bowl.

5. Soak 30 bamboo skewers in water for 30 min-

utes. Light a grill. Thread 1 shrimp lengthwise onto

each bamboo skewer. Grill over high heat for about

1» minutes per side, until the shrimp are nicely

charred and just cooked through. Transfer the

shrimp skewers to a platter, and serve imme diately

with the peanut sauce. —Chris Yeo

wine Australian Riesling: 2007 Lalla Gully.



grilled sAlMon with Preserved leMon total: 30 min 6 servings

Salty, pungent preserved lemons flavor the

salmon fillet here, grilled until the skin is deli-

ciously crisp.

¥ preserved lemon, pulp discarded

and peel minced (see Note)

1 small shallot, minced

¥ cup chopped parsley



One 2-pound, center-cut

salmon fillet with skin

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

8 large green olives, such as Cerignola,

pitted and cut into slivers

1. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. In a bowl, mix

the preserved lemon with the shallot, parsley and

1 tablespoon each of the oil and lemon juice. Using

a knife, make 1-inch-deep slits in the salmon skin,

1 inch apart. Rub the preserved lemon mixture

into the slits. Rub the remaining 2 tablespoons

of oil all over the salmon, then drizzle the fish

with the remaining 2 tablespoons of lemon juice;

season with salt and white pepper.

2. Grill the salmon, skin side down, over moder-

ate heat until the skin is lightly charred and

crisp, 5 minutes. Turn the salmon and grill until

just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes longer. Trans-

fer the fish to a platterw. Scatter the olives over

the fish. Cut the salmon crosswise into 6 pieces

and serve. —Joe Bastianich

note Preserved lemons are a Moroccan ingredi-

ent made from lemons that have been cured in

lemon juice and salt. Look for them at specialty-

food shops.

make ahead The seasoned salmon can be

refrigerated for up to 4 hours.

wine Minerally Italian white: 2008 Bastianich

Friulano.



grilled hAlibut with sMAshed fingerlings total: 40 min plus 2 hr marinating 4 servings

In this recipe, delicate halibut fillets are rubbed

in fresh herbs and grilled until lightly charred.

The tangy sauce that tops the fish is made from

cherry tomatoes cooked in tarragon-infused

browned butter until they burst with juice.

» cup chopped parsley

¥ cup chopped tarragon,

plus ¥ cup whole leaves

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

Four 6- to 7-ounce skinless

halibut fillets

2 pounds fingerling potatoes

Salt



4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 medium shallots, thinly sliced



1 pint cherry tomatoes

1. In a bowl, toss the parsley with the chopped

tarragon and lemon zest. Rub the herbs all over

the halibut; cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.

2. In a large saucepan, cover the potatoes with

water and bring to a boil. Salt generously and

simmer over moderately high heat until tender,

about 10 minutes. Drain and let cool.

3. Light a grill. In a large nonstick skillet, heat

the ¥ cup of olive oil. Add the garlic and shallots

and cook over moderately high heat until golden,

about 2 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook

over low heat, smashing them gently with a

spatula, until they start to break apart. Continue

cooking, stirring a few times, until the potatoes

are browned and crisp, about 5 minutes total.

Season with salt and pepper.

4. In a medium skillet, melt the butter. Add the

whole tarragon leaves and cook over moderate

heat until the tarragon is fragrant, about 2 min-

utes. Add the tomatoes and cook over low heat,

stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes burst

and the butter is browned, about 7 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper.

5. Drizzle the halibut with oil and season with

salt and pepper. Grill the fillets over moderately

high heat until charred and just cooked, about

3 minutes per side. Transfer the fish to plates

and spoon the tomato butter on top. Serve with

the smashed potatoes. —Caroline Styne

wine Cherry-inflected Pinot Noir: 2007 Cam-

bria Julia’s Vineyard.



gingery ChiCken sAtAy with PeAnut sAuCe total: 30 min 6 servings

In this ingenious version of an Indonesian clas-

sic, gingery, lemongrass-scented satay paste

is the base for the chicken marinade as well as

for the luxurious peanut dipping sauce. A few

alternatives to the chicken: thinly sliced beef

or pork or whole, shelled shrimp.

4 large shallots

4 large garlic cloves

2 stalks of lemongrass, bottom

6 inches only, outer leaves peeled,

inner stalk cut into 1-inch pieces

2 serrano or jalapeño chiles,

stemmed and seeded

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons light brown sugar

2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce

2 pounds skinless, boneless

chicken breasts, sliced

lengthwise 1 inch thick

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

» cup smooth peanut butter

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1. Light a grill. In a mini food processor, combine

the shallots, garlic, lemongrass, chiles, ginger,

soy sauce, coriander and ground pepper. Add

2 tablespoons of the brown sugar and 1 tablespoon

of the fish sauce and process to a fine paste.

Transfer half of the seasoning paste to a large

bowl. Add the chicken and toss to coat.

2. Thread the chicken strips onto skewers.

Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil and let

stand for 10 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon

of oil in a medium saucepan. Add the remaining

seasoning paste and cook over moderate heat,

stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the

coconut milk and bring to a boil, stirring. Whisk in

the peanut butter and the remaining 1 tablespoon

each of brown sugar and fish sauce and bring

to a simmer. Transfer the sauce to a blender,

add the lime juice and puree until smooth. Trans-

fer to a bowl.

4. Grill the chicken skewers over a hot fire until

lightly charred and cooked through, about

5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a platter or

bowl and sprinkle with the cilantro. Serve with

the peanut sauce. —Grace Parisi

wine Rich, fragrant Gewürztraminer: 2007

Hugel et Fils.



grilled red Curry ChiCken active: 15 min; total: 45 min 4 servings

Roasting a whole chicken takes about an hour,

but cut out the backbone and flatten the bird,

and it will grill perfectly in 30 minutes. The rub

all over this chicken is a very simple, Thai-

inspired mix of red curry paste, coconut milk

and brown sugar.

One 3-pound chicken, wing tips removed

¥ cup unsweetened coconut milk

2 tablespoons red curry paste

1 teaspoon dark brown sugar


1. Light a grill. Using kitchen shears, cut along

both sides of the chicken backbone; discard

the backbone. Turn the chicken breast side up

and press down firmly on the breast bone to

crack and flatten it. Using a sharp knife, cut

deep slits to the bone » inch apart along the

chicken legs and thighs. Transfer the flattened

chicken to a medium baking dish.

2. In a small bowl, whisk the coconut milk with

the curry paste and brown sugar until smooth.

Rub the curry mixture all over the chicken, into

the slits and under the skin; season with salt

and pepper.

3. Grill the chicken skin side down over moderate

heat until the skin is browned and crisp, about

10 minutes. Turn the chicken skin side up, cover

and grill over moderate heat until cooked

through, about 20 minutes. Transfer the chicken

to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.

Carve the chicken and serve. —Melissa Rubel

Jacobson

serve with Sautéed napa cabbage and grilled

eggplant.

wine Tropical-fruited Chardonnay: 2009

Jacob’s Creek.



grilled lAMb sAlAd with CuMin vinAigrette total: 45 min 4 servings

For a pretty blend of colors as well as flavors,

Los Angeles chef Sang Yoon lays slices of cumin-

spiced lamb on a bed of jicama, carrot and let-

tuce. “Lamb seasoned with cumin is very Indian,

as well as Sichuan and Yunnan. But no one in

Asia would serve lamb on a salad; that’s just me

being Californian,” Yoon says.

One 1-pound piece boneless leg

of lamb, about 3 inches thick

¥ cup vegetable oil,

plus more for rubbing

2 teaspoons ground cumin


3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon honey or agave nectar

» teaspoon dry mustard

Freshly ground white pepper

4 cups thinly sliced romaine lettuce

One 6-ounce piece of jicama,

peeled and cut into matchsticks

1 large carrot, cut into matchsticks

1 medium seedless cucumber,

peeled and cut into matchsticks

» cup shredded basil, plus 4 sprigs

2 red jalapeños, seeded and sliced

4 cilantro sprigs

1. Light a grill. Rub the lamb with oil, sprinkle

with 1 teaspoon of the cumin and season

with salt and black pepper. Let stand at room

temperature for 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine the vinegar,

honey, mustard and the remaining 1 teaspoon

of cumin. Whisk in the ¥ cup of oil and season

the dressing with salt and white pepper.

3. Grill the lamb over moderate heat, turning a

few times, until charred and medium-rare, about

12 minutes. Transfer the lamb to a carving board;

let rest for 5 minutes.

4. In a large bowl, toss the romaine with the

jicama, carrot, cucumber, shredded basil and

jalapeños. Add the dressing and toss well. Trans-

fer to plates. Thinly slice the lamb and arrange

the slices on the salad. Garnish with the cilantro

and basil sprigs and serve. —Sang Yoon

beer Rich Trappist ale: Chimay Blue.



grilled steAk tACos with AvoCAdo sAlsA total: 1 hr 15 min 4 to 6 servings

These are the ultimate grilled tacos, because

so many of the components get cooked on the

grill: the steak, the chorizo, the cheese and even

the chiles in the salsa.

3 jalapeños

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion—half cut into »-inch dice,

half sliced ¥ inch thick


1 pound tomatillos—husked

and chopped

1 Hass avocado, diced

» cup chopped cilantro

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice


2 links of fresh chorizo

» pound queso panela or halloumi

cheese, cut into squares

One 1»-pound flank steak

1. Heat a grill pan. Grill the jalapeños until charred.

Stem and seed the jalapeños; finely dice 2 of

them. Thinly slice the remaining jalapeño and

reserve on a platter.

2. In a saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil.

Add the diced jalapeños, diced onion and the

garlic and cook over moderate heat until golden,

10 minutes. Add the tomatillos and cook until

softened. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Stir in

the avocado, cilantro and lime juice; season the

salsa with salt and pepper.

3. Oil the chorizo and grill over moderate heat until

cooked through. Remove the chorizo casing and

crumble the meat into a bowl. Lightly oil the cheese

and grill for 1 min ute per side, then oil the pan and

grill the sliced onion until charred; transfer both

to the platter.

4. Oil the steak; season with salt and pepper. Grill

over moderately high heat, turning once, 8 minutes

for medium-rare. Transfer to a board and let rest

for 5 minutes. Thinly slice the steak and serve with

the accompaniments. —Gonzalo Martinez

serve with Warm flour tortillas.

wine Rich, Chilean Carmenère: 2008 Lapos-

tolle Casa.



CheddAr blt burgers with russiAn dressing total: 30 min 6 servings

Chef Laurent Tourondel brushes butter on his

burgers while they’re grilling. The natural sugars

in the butter caramelize, making the meat extra-

delicious.

½ cup mayonnaise

⅓ cup ketchup

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon grated onion

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 tablespoon chopped tarragon

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

12 ounces thickly sliced bacon

1¬ pounds ground beef chuck

1¬ pounds ground beef sirloin

1 teaspoon kosher salt

» teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted

butter, melted

3 ounces sharp cheddar cheese,

cut into 6 slices

6 hamburger buns, split and toasted

6 iceberg lettuce leaves

6 slices of tomato

6 slices of red onion

1. In a bowl, whisk the mayonnaise, ketchup,

red wine vinegar, onion, parsley, tarragon and

Worcestershire sauce. Cover and refrigerate.

2. In a large skillet, cook the bacon over moder-

ately high heat, turning once, until crisp, about

6 minutes. Drain and cut into large pieces.

3. Light a grill and fill a large bowl with ice water.

Gently mix the ground chuck with the ground

sirloin, salt and pepper. Form the meat into six

4-inch patties, about 1¥ inches thick. Submerge

the patties in the cold water and let soak for

30 seconds. Immediately transfer the burgers

to the grill and brush with some of the melted

butter. Grill over high heat for 9 minutes for

medium-rare meat, turning once or twice and

brushing occasionally with butter. Top the burg-

ers with the cheese during the last minute of

grilling and let melt.

4. Spread the Russian dressing on the buns. Set

the lettuce leaves and tomato slices on the bottom

halves and top with the burgers, red onion and

bacon. Close the burgers, cut in half and serve

right away. —Laurent Tourondel

wine Spicy Cabernet: 2006 Ex-Libris.



grilled Porterhouse with suMMer vegetAbles total: 45 min 4 servings

Los Angeles chef Kerry Simon likes to grill hefty

steaks like this porterhouse over charcoal to

give the meat a terrific smokiness.




1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon chopped oregano


2 medium zucchini, sliced on

the diagonal ¬ inch thick

1 red onion, sliced ¬ inch thick

1 red bell pepper, cored and

quartered

¼ pound shiitake mushrooms,

stemmed

1 pound asparagus

1 bunch scallions, roots trimmed

and bottom 6 inches only

Two 1-inch-thick porterhouse

steaks (1 pound each)

1. Light a charcoal grill. In a small bowl, whisk the

olive oil with the lemon juice, red wine vinegar,

mustard and oregano and season with salt and

pepper. Transfer half of the dressing to a large

bowl. Add the zucchini, onion, red bell pepper,

mushrooms, asparagus and scallions. Season the

vegetables with salt and pepper and toss.

2. In a perforated grill pan, grill the vegetables

over high heat, tossing, until charred in spots,

10 minutes; return to the bowl, add the remaining

dressing and toss.

3. Season the steaks generously with salt and

pepper. Grill the steaks over high heat, turning

occasionally, about 11 minutes for medium-rare

meat. Transfer the steaks to a carving board

and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice the meat from

the bones and serve with the grilled vegetables.

—Kerry Simon

wine Spicy Malbec: 2007 Crios de Susana

Balbo.

favoritebest new

chefsrecıpes


favorite BEST NEW CHEFS recipes

Thomas Keller, an F&W Best New Chef 1998,

serves salmon cornets (tuiles shaped into tiny

cones and topped with crème fraîche and fresh

salmon) as a kickoff to the luxe and whimsical

meals at the revered French Laundry in Napa

Valley. The original recipe appears in The French

Laundry Cookbook, published by Artisan. This

streamlined version suggests leaving the tuiles

flat, like crackers, and topping them with store-

bought smoked salmon and crème fraîche.

4½ tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 chilled large egg white


at room temperature

1 tablespoon black

sesame seeds

4 ounces sliced smoked

salmon, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons very finely

chopped shallot

1½ teaspoons very finely

chopped chives, plus a few

snipped, for garnish

¼ teaspoon finely grated

lemon zest

Freshly ground white pepper

½ cup crème fraîche

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Line 2 baking sheets

with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, whisk

the flour with the sugar and salt. Add the egg

white and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the but-

ter until smooth and creamy.

2. Spoon teaspoons of the batter 3 inches apart

on the prepared baking sheets and spread to

2-inch rounds. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds

and bake in the upper and middle third of the

oven for about 15 minutes, shifting the pans from

top to bottom and front to back, until the tuiles

are golden and fragrant. Let cool.

3. In a medium bowl, combine the salmon with

the shallot, chopped chives, lemon zest and a

pinch of white pepper. Spoon the salmon onto

the tuiles and top each with a dollop of crème

fraîche and a couple of snipped chives. Serve

right away. —Thomas Keller

make ahead The tuiles can be stored in an

airtight container at room temperature for up

to 2 days.

wine Strawberry-scented sparkling rosé: 2006

Schramsberg Rosé.

SmokEd SalmoN CriSpS total: 45 min m a k e s 3 d o z e n c r i s p s



Todd English, an F&W Best New Chef 1990, makes

this great flatbread with sticky-sweet fig jam,

pungent Gorgonzola cheese and salty prosciutto.

Store-bought pizza dough is a fabulous alternative

to the homemade kind.

Two 12-ounce balls of pizza dough,

at room temperature

All-purpose flour

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil


1 teaspoon minced fresh

rosemary


½ cup fig jam (from a 6-ounce jar)

¼ pound Gorgonzola cheese,

crumbled (1 cup)

3 ounces sliced prosciutto

1 scallion, white and green

parts thinly sliced

1. Place a pizza stone in the bottom of the oven

and preheat the oven to 500°. Allow at least 45

minutes for the pizza stone to heat thoroughly.

2. Meanwhile, on a lightly floured surface, roll

out one piece of the pizza dough to a 13-inch

round. Dust a pizza peel with flour and slide the

dough onto it. Drizzle with about 2 tablespoons

of the olive oil and sprinkle with half of the garlic

and rosemary. Season with salt and pepper.

Dollop ¥ cup of the fig jam all over the crust, being

sure to leave a 1-inch border of dough all around.

Scatter half of the cheese and prosciutto over

the dough.

3. Slide the flatbread onto the stone and bake

for about 15 minutes, until puffed and golden.

Transfer the flatbread to a cutting board and let

cool for 10 minutes before slicing. Repeat with

the remaining ingredients to make the second

flatbread. Garnish with the sliced scallion and

serve. —Todd English

wine Cherry-inflected Chianti: 2006 Coltibuono

RS.

Fig-aNd-proSCiuTTo FlaTBrEadS active: 20 min; total: 1 hr 15 min m a k e s t w o 1 3 - i n c h r o u n d f l at b r e a d s



This deliciously light and clean-tasting soup from

Daniel Boulud, an F&W Best New Chef 1988,

includes both sweet peas and snap peas. A version

of the soup appears on the menu each spring

at Café Boulud in New York City.

8 slices of bacon


2 celery ribs, thinly sliced

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 leek, white and tender green parts

only, thinly sliced

5 cups chicken stock or low-sodium

broth

Two 4-inch rosemary sprigs

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

½ pound sugar snap peas, thinly sliced

Two 10-ounce boxes frozen baby peas

¥ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 cup heavy cream


1. In a medium soup pot, cook the bacon over

moderate heat until browned and crisp, about

6 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a plate. Pour off

the fat in the pot.

2. In the same pot, heat the olive oil. Add the

celery, onion and leek and cook over moderately

low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened but

not browned, about 7 minutes. Add the chicken

stock, 4 slices of the cooked bacon, 1 rosemary

sprig and a pinch each of salt and white pepper.

Simmer until the vegetables are very tender,

about 15 minutes. Discard the bacon and rose-

mary. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the veg-

etables to a blender.

3. Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of salted

water to a boil. Add the sugar snaps and cook

for 3 minutes. Add the frozen baby peas and the

parsley and cook just until heated through, about

1 minute; drain. Add the sugar snaps, baby peas

and parsley to the blender and puree until

smooth, adding a few tablespoons of the broth

to loosen the mixture. Transfer the soup and the

remaining broth to a large bowl set in a larger

bowl of ice water to cool.

4. In a small saucepan, bring the heavy cream,

garlic and remaining rosemary sprig to a boil. Sim-

mer over low heat until slightly reduced, about 5

minutes. Strain the garlic cream into a bowl and

let cool.

5. Ladle the chilled pea soup into bowls and

drizzle with the garlic cream. Crumble the

remaining 4 slices of bacon into each bowl and

serve. —Daniel Boulud

make ahead The soup and cream can be refrig-

erated separately for up to 2 days.

wine Lively Austrian Grüner Veltliner: 2007

Loimer Lois.

CHillEd SpriNg pEa Soup total: 45 min 6 servings



The bright flavors of tomato, orange juice and

smoked paprika make this soup perfect for sum-

mer, as does its versatility: It’s delicious chilled

or hot. Its creator, Naomi Pomeroy (an F&W Best

New Chef 2009), serves it with a side of maple-

candied bacon, made by sprinkling bacon with

maple sugar and baking until crisp.

8 slices of thick-cut applewood-smoked

bacon (8 ounces)

2 tablespoons maple sugar or

light brown sugar (see Note)


¥ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

3 large garlic cloves, minced

1» tablespoons tomato paste

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon grated orange zest

» teaspoon piment d’Espelette

(a dried pepper from France)

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

» cup dry rosé wine

Two 15-ounce cans chopped tomatoes

2 cups water

¥ cup fresh orange juice

3 tablespoons sour cream

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Line a rimmed bak-

ing sheet with parchment. Arrange the bacon on

the paper and bake for 8 minutes, until almost

crisp. Drain the oil from the baking sheet. Sprinkle

the bacon with the sugar and bake for 8 minutes

more, until glazed; cool.

2. Meanwhile, in a saucepan, melt the butter in

the oil. Add the onion and cook over moderately

high heat until softened, 5 minutes. Add the

garlic and cook over moderate heat for 30 sec-

onds. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring,

until darkened, 2 minutes. Stir in the granulated

sugar, smoked paprika, orange zest, piment

d’Espelette, 1 tablespoon of salt and ¥ teaspoon

of pepper and cook for 30 seconds. Add the rosé

and bring to a boil. Add the tomatoes with their

juices; bring to a simmer. Remove from the

heat.

3. Stir the water, orange juice and sour cream into

the saucepan. Working in batches, puree the soup

until smooth. Return the soup to the saucepan;

season with salt and pepper. Reheat the soup,

then ladle into bowls and serve with the bacon.

Alternatively, the soup can be chilled and served

cold. —Naomi Pomeroy

note Maple sugar is made from the boiled sap

of the sugar maple tree. It’s available at health-

food stores.

wine Smoky, citrusy Vouvray: 2008 Cham-

palou.

Smoky TomaTo Soup WiTH maplE-CaNdiEd BaCoN total: 30 min 4 servings



At his flagship New Orleans restaurant, August,

John Besh (an F&W Best New Chef 1999) makes

his chopped salad with 21 different kinds of

vegetables and herbs. The simplified version

here narrows the selection to the best nine.

2 tablespoons Champagne

vinegar

¬ cup extra-virgin olive oil


½ pound prepared beet salad

or cooked beets

18 baby carrots, halved

lengthwise

½ pound fingerling potatoes,

sliced ½ inch thick

½ pound marinated artichoke hearts,

drained and chopped

One 1-pound fennel bulb, thinly

sliced on a mandoline

4 radishes, thinly sliced

½ seedless cucumber—peeled,

quartered lengthwise and

thinly sliced crosswise

3 ounces pea shoots

2 tablespoons chopped dill

1. In a large bowl, whisk the vinegar and olive

oil and season with salt and pepper. Transfer 2

tablespoons of the dressing to a small bowl and

toss with the beets.

2. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Fill

a bowl with ice water. Cook the carrots for 5 min-

utes; using a slotted spoon, transfer to the ice

water. Add the potatoes to the boiling water and

cook for 8 minutes. Drain and add to the carrots;

pat dry.

3. Add the carrots and potatoes to the dressing

in the large bowl. Add the artichokes, fennel, rad-

ishes, cucumber, pea shoots and dill. Season with

salt and pepper and toss to coat. Transfer the salad

to plates, scatter the beets on top and serve.

—John Besh

wine Crisp, appley Spanish white: 2008 Vega

Sindoa Viura Chardonnay.

auguST CHoppEd Salad total: 45 min 6 servings



In this exquisitely simple recipe, Portland, Oregon

chef Gabriel Rucker (an F&W Best New Chef

2007) tosses radish wedges in a warm dressing

made with brown butter (instead of oil) and Span-

ish Moscatel vinegar (which is golden and slightly

bittersweet). It’s a brilliant play on the familiar

combination of radish, butter and salt.

2 small leeks or 16 baby leeks,

white and tender green parts

only, halved and washed

» pound green beans

4 cups baby arugula (2 ounces)

2» tablespoons unsalted butter

¥ cup Moscatel, white balsamic

or late-harvest wine vinegar

¥ cup thinly sliced red onion

16 small radishes, quartered


¥ cup small or torn mint leaves

1. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to

a boil. Add the leeks, cover and simmer over

low heat until tender, about 10 minutes (3 minutes

for baby leeks). Using a slotted spoon, transfer

the leeks to paper towels to drain. Cut the leeks

lengthwise into long, thin strands.

2. Add the beans to the saucepan. Cook until just

tender, 4 minutes. Drain and pat dry.

3. Put the arugula in a large bowl. In a large

skillet, heat the butter and cook over moderately

high heat until richly browned, about 2 minutes.

Add the leeks, green beans, vinegar, red onion

and radishes and toss until warmed. Spoon the

vegetables and butter dressing over the arugula,

toss well and season with salt and pepper.

Arrange the salad on 4 plates, garnish with the

mint leaves and serve. —Gabriel Rucker

wine Vibrant Albariño: 2008 Martin Codax.

SummEr Salad WiTH BroWN BuTTEr drESSiNg total: 45 min 4 servings



Sue Zemanick, an F&W Best New Chef 2008,

revitalizes the classic combination of crab, avo-

cado and tomato by tossing her salad with a

vibrant, spicy dressing spiked with jalapeño.

5 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2» tablespoons extra-virgin

olive oil

2» tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon very finely

chopped jalapeño

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro,

plus cilantro leaves for garnish

» tablespoon honey

» teaspoon minced garlic


» pound lump crabmeat, picked over

1» Hass avocados, diced (» inch)

¬ cup minced red onion

1 large heirloom tomato,

cut into four »-inch-thick slices

Tortilla chips, for serving

1. In a small bowl, combine the lime juice with

the olive oil, vegetable oil, jalapeño, chopped

cilantro, honey and garlic. Season the dressing

with salt and pepper.

2. In a small bowl, toss the crab with 3 table-

spoons of the dressing and season with salt

and pepper. In a medium bowl, gently toss the

avocado with the red onion and 2 tablespoons

of the dressing; season with salt and pepper.

3. Place a tomato slice on each plate and season

with salt. Top with the avocado and the crab

and garnish with the cilantro. Drizzle the remain-

ing dressing on top and serve with tortilla chips.

variation To replicate our cover recipe, spoon

chopped cherry tomatoes into glasses; top with

the crab, avocado slices and remaining dressing

and serve. —Sue Zemanick

wine Rich, bright Sonoma Coast Chardonnay:

2007 Ramey Russian River Valley.

CHilE-limE CraB Salad WiTH avoCado total: 30 min 4 servings



QuiNoa Salad WiTH piCklEd radiSHES active: 30 min; total: 1 hr 15 min 6 servings

Giuseppe Tentori, an F&W Best New Chef 2008,

prepares his quinoa salad with a delight ful mix

of cucumber, thin green beans, parsley and feta.

He also pickles radishes in red wine vinegar and

sugar before adding them to the bowl; their puck-

ery crunch makes the salad really special.

1 cup red wine vinegar

1» tablespoons sugar

4 medium radishes,

very thinly sliced

» pound thin green beans

1 cup quinoa, rinsed

1 large English cucumber—

halved lengthwise, seeded

and cut into ¥-inch dice

3» tablespoons extra-virgin

olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground

black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped

flat-leaf parsley


6 ounces Greek feta cheese,

thinly sliced

1. In a small saucepan, bring the red wine vin-

egar to a simmer with the sugar. Remove from

the heat and add the radish slices. Let stand

until cool, about 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan of salted boil-

ing water, blanch the green beans until they are

crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Drain and rinse

the beans under cold water until cool. Pat the

beans dry and cut them into 1»-inch lengths.

3. In a medium saucepan, bring 1‚ cups of

water to a boil. Add the quinoa, cover and sim-

mer over low heat until all of the water has been

absorbed, about 12 minutes. Uncover and let

stand until cool, about 10 minutes.

4. In a medium bowl, toss the cucumber with

» tablespoon of the olive oil and season with

salt and pepper. In a large bowl, toss the quinoa

with the parsley, lemon juice and the remaining

3 tablespoons of olive oil; season with salt and

pepper. Drain the radishes and add them to the

quinoa, along with the beans, cucumber and

feta. Toss well and serve. —Giuseppe Tentori

make ahead The quinoa salad can be refriger-

ated for up to 3 hours.

wine Green apple–scented, unoaked Chardon-

nay: 2007 A to Z.



Linton Hopkins, an F&W Best New Chef 2009,

creates a splendid version of this famously rich

Italian dish combining pancetta or guanciale

(cured pork jowl), egg yolks and cheese.

6 ounces bucatini or perciatelli

1 tablespoon extra-virgin

olive oil

4 ounces pancetta, sliced ¥ inch thick

and cut into ¥-inch dice

1 shallot, very finely chopped

1 garlic clove, very finely

chopped

1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons freshly grated

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese,

plus more for serving

4 large egg yolks

Salt

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped

parsley


1. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook

the pasta until al dente. Drain, reserving 3 table-

spoons of the cooking water.

2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the oil. Add

the pancetta and cook over moderate heat until

most of the fat has been rendered, 7 minutes.

Add the shallot and garlic and cook over moderate

heat for 1 minute. Add the cream and simmer

over moderate heat until slightly thickened,

about 2 minutes. Add the hot pasta to the skillet

and stir to coat, 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Stir in the reserved pasta cooking water, the

2 tablespoons of grated cheese and the egg

yolks. Season with salt. Divide the pasta into

bowls and sprinkle with parsley and pepper.

Serve, passing more cheese at the table.

—Linton Hopkins

wine Robust Vino Nobile di Montepulciano:

2006 Boscarelli.

BuCaTiNi CarBoNara total: 30 min 4 f i r st- c o u r s e s e r v i n g s



Koren Grieveson (an F&W Best New Chef 2008)

pairs chicken with a very smart bread salad.

4 large garlic cloves

One ¥-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled

and coarsely chopped

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

» teaspoon cayenne

¬ cup plus 1 tablespoon

fresh lemon juice

8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1 scallion, thinly sliced


¥ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

One ‚-pound loaf white country-style

bread, sliced 1 inch thick


12 ounces cherry tomatoes

8 baby artichokes in oil, drained

and halved lengthwise

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon canola oil

¥ cup chicken stock

1. In a mini food processor, pulse the garlic and

ginger until chopped. Add the paprika, cayenne

and ¬ cup of the lemon juice and process until

smooth; transfer to a bowl. Add the chicken,

cilantro, scallion and 2 tablespoons each of the

olive oil and parsley. Toss, cover and refrigerate

for 3 hours.

2. Meanwhile, heat a grill pan. Brush the bread

with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with

salt and pepper. Grill the bread over moderately

high heat, turning once, until toasted, 3 minutes.

Let cool, then tear into bite-size pieces.

3. Preheat the broiler. In a large, deep skillet,

toss the tomatoes with 1 tablespoon of the olive

oil and season with salt and pepper. Broil the

tomatoes for 7 minutes, until they begin to burst.

Lightly mash the tomatoes to release some of

their juices. Let cool slightly, then add the bread,

artichokes and lemon zest to the skillet.

4. Preheat the oven to 375°. Remove the chicken

from the marinade and pat dry. In a very large

skillet, heat the canola oil. Season the chicken

with salt and pepper and add to the skillet, skin

side down. Cook over moderately high heat until

browned, about 4 minutes. Turn the chicken, pour

the stock in the skillet and bring to a boil; transfer

to the oven. Roast the chicken for 15 minutes, until

cooked through. Spoon ¥ cup of the pan drippings

from the skillet over the bread mixture.

5. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining olive oil,

parsley and lemon juice. Warm the bread salad

over moderate heat, tossing, until warm. Remove

from the heat. Pour the dressing over the bread

salad and toss; season with salt and pepper.

6. Transfer the chicken to plates, spoon the bread

salad alongside and serve.—Koren Grieveson

wine Vibrant Grüner Veltliner: 2008 Grooner.

roaSTEd CHiCkEN WiTH arTiCHokE paNzaNElla active: 45 min; total: 3 hr 30 min 4 servings



Seattle chef Mark Fuller, an F&W Best New Chef

2009, prepares this steak in the spring and

summer to showcase the Pacific Northwest’s

iconic Walla Walla onions and morel mushrooms.

The tomato-and-asparagus salad he serves

alongside the beef would be wonderful all on its

own as a first course.

1» cups dry red wine

» cup Dijon mustard

¥ cup packed dark brown sugar

8 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled

3 large shallots, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon chopped thyme


One 1»-pound flank steak

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon honey

6 ounces cherry tomatoes, preferably

Sweet 100 tomatoes, quartered

(about 1» cups)

¥ small sweet onion, such as

Walla Walla, thinly sliced

6 ounces thin asparagus

2 ears of corn, shucked


6 basil leaves, finely shredded

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

6 ounces fresh morel mushrooms,

cleaned and halved if large, or a scant

» ounce dried morels, reconstituted in

boiling water for 10 minutes

1. In a large glass baking dish, whisk the wine,

mustard, sugar, garlic, shallots, parsley, thyme,

1 tablespoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper.

Add the steak and turn to coat. Let stand at room

temperature for 2 hours.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk the cider

vinegar and honey. Add the tomatoes and onion

and toss. Let stand for 1 hour.

3. Light a grill. Coat the asparagus and corn with

olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill

over moderately high heat, turning occasionally,

until tender and browned in spots, about 3 minutes

for the asparagus and 6 minutes for the corn.

Transfer to a work surface; when cool enough to

handle, cut the asparagus into pieces and cut

the corn from the cobs. Add the asparagus, corn

and basil to the tomatoes and toss.

4. Remove the steak from the marinade and pat

dry with paper towels; season with salt and pep-

per. Grill the steak, turning once, until medium-

rare, 10 minutes. Transfer the steak to a work

surface and let rest for 10 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, in a skillet, melt the butter. Add

the morels and cook over moderately high heat

until browned, about 3 minutes. Season with

salt and pepper.

6. Slice the steak against the grain and transfer

to plates. Season the tomato salad with salt

and pepper and spoon alongside the steak. Top

the steak with the morels; serve. —Mark Fuller

wine Fruity Argentinean Malbec: 2009 Ben-

Marco.

grillEd FlaNk STEak WiTH SummEr vEgETaBlES active: 50 min; total: 2 hr 30 min 4 servings



For her riff on lemon meringue pie, Gale Gand

(an F&W Best New Chef 1994) forgoes a

traditional crust in favor of quick-baked sheets

of sugared phyllo dough, layered with house-

made lemon curd and a brown-sugar meringue.

The recipe, a classic at Tru in Chicago, appears

in Gand’s book Butter Sugar Flour Eggs, published

by Clarkson Potter. The simplified version here

calls for good quality store-bought phyllo dough

and jarred lemon curd.

3 sheets of phyllo dough,

plus more in case of tearing


melted

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 cup light brown sugar

5 large egg whites

One 12-ounce jar lemon curd

Raspberries, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Cut 2 sheets of

parchment paper to fit a large baking sheet.

Place 1 sheet of the parchment on a work surface.

Top with a sheet of phyllo and brush with the

melted butter. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons of the gran-

ulated sugar over the phyllo. Repeat with 2 more

sheets of phyllo so that you have a stack of 3

sugared sheets. Using a ruler, trim the phyllo

to a 12-by-16-inch rectangle, then cut it into

twelve 4-inch squares. Slide the parchment onto

a baking sheet and top with the second sheet

of parchment paper. Bake for 18 minutes, until

the phyllo squares are golden and crisp. Let cool

completely.

2. Preheat the broiler. Put the brown sugar in a

food processor; pulse to break up any lumps. In

the bowl of a standing electric mixer fitted with

a whisk, beat the egg whites at medium-high

speed until soft peaks form. Beat in the brown

sugar at high speed, a few tablespoons at a time,

until the whites are glossy, 2 to 3 minutes. Trans-

fer the meringue to a pastry bag with a plain tip.

3. Spoon a dollop of lemon curd onto each phyllo

square. Pipe a layer of meringue over the lemon

curd (alternately, you can spoon the meringue

over the curd). Broil 6 inches from the heat for

1 minute, or until lightly toasted. Set 6 phyllo

squares on plates and top them with the remain-

ing 6 squares. Garnish with raspberries and

serve. —Gale Gand

NoT your uSual lEmoN mEriNguE piE total: 1 hr 6 servings

favoritehealthyrecıpes


favorite HEALTHY recipes

This salad epitomizes fall flavors, with its chunks

of butternut squash, pumpkin seeds, pecans

and greens. The easiest way to peel the but-

ternut squash is with a sturdy U-peeler (named

for its wide, U-shaped handle), which is available

at most supermarkets.

¥ cup plus 3 tablespoons vegetable oil,

preferably peanut

2 cups peeled butternut squash

(10 ounces), cut into 1-inch cubes


2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 tablespoon coarsely

chopped tarragon

1 tablespoon chopped

flat-leaf parsley

10 ounces mixed salad greens

or mesclun

1 cup coarsely chopped pecans

» cup roasted pumpkin seeds

1. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons

of the oil. Add the squash in an even layer, season

with salt and pepper and cook over moderately

high heat until browned on the bottom, about

5 minutes. Turn the squash cubes and cook over

moderately low heat until browned on the other

side and just tender, about 7 minutes.

2. In a small bowl, combine the vinegar with the

tarragon, parsley and the remaining 5 tablespoons

of oil; season the dressing with salt and pepper.

In a large bowl, toss the salad greens with the

pecans, pumpkin seeds and roasted squash.

Pour the dressing over the salad and toss well.

Serve the salad right away. —Shawn McClain

make ahead The dressing can be kept at room

temperature for up to 2 hours. The cooked

squash can be refrigerated overnight. Bring to

room temperature before using in the salad.

wine Crisp, pear-scented Pinot Gris: 2008

O’Reilly’s.

FALL HArvEsT sALAd active: 25 min; total: 40 min 10 to 12 servings



This soup gets its luxurious texture from just a

little bit of cream and milk stirred in at the end.

The poppy seeds scattered on top not only look

pretty, but add a fun, nutty crunch.



1 large onion, coarsely chopped

1 quart low-sodium vegetable broth

1 quart water

2 pounds carrots,

sliced ¬ inch thick

6 large scallions, thinly sliced crosswise

2 teaspoons poppy seeds

» cup heavy cream

» cup milk


1. In a large pot, melt the butter in 1 tablespoon

of the olive oil. Add the onion, cover and cook

over low heat, stirring occasionally, until soft-

ened, about 5 minutes. Add the broth and water

along with the carrots and bring to a boil over

high heat. Cover and simmer over low heat until

the carrots are tender, about 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat the

remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the scal-

lions and poppy seeds and cook over moderately

high heat, stirring, until the scallions are softened,

about 1 minute.

3. Working in batches, puree the carrot soup in

a blender until smooth; transfer to a clean sauce-

pan. Stir in the cream and milk and simmer over

moderate heat, stirring. Season the soup with

salt and pepper and ladle into bowls. Garnish

with the scallions and poppy seeds and serve.

—Marcia Kiesel

make ahead The carrot soup can be refriger-

ated overnight. Reheat gently.

wine Full-bodied white: 2007 Terre Rouge Rous-

sanne.

CrEAmY CArroT soup wiTH poppY sEEds active: 35 min; total: 1 hr 12 servings



Quinoa is definitely a superfood: A grain-like

seed, it’s a complete protein containing all eight

essential amino acids. It also cooks pretty

quickly. Here, F&W’s Marcia Kiesel tosses it with

crunchy sugar snaps and roasted pumpkin

seeds for a great salad.

½ pound sugar snap peas

1½ cups quinoa, rinsed

and drained

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon

extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons white wine

vinegar


½ cup salted roasted

pumpkin seeds

½ cup minced chives

1. In a small saucepan of boiling salted water,

simmer the peas until bright green and crisp-

tender, about 1 minute. Drain and spread out

on a large plate to cool, then pat dry. Cut the

peas on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces.

2. In a small saucepan, combine the quinoa with

2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Cover and

cook over low heat until all of the water has

evaporated and the quinoa is tender, about 15

minutes. Uncover and fluff the quinoa, then

transfer to a large bowl and let cool to room

temperature.

3. In a bowl, combine the oil and vinegar and

season with salt and pepper. Add the peas to the

quinoa with the pumpkin seeds, chives and dress-

ing; stir. Season with salt and pepper and serve

at room temperature or lightly chilled. —Marcia

Kiesel

make ahead The salad can be refrigerated for

up to 6 hours.

wine Bright, nutty Soave: 2008 Gini Classico.

QuinoA sALAd wiTH sugAr snAp pEAs active: 15 min; total: 40 min 6 s e r v i n g s



TunA sCALLopinE wiTH pArsLEY And pomEgrAnATE total: 25 min 4 servings

The unusual topping for these meaty tuna

steaks is bright and delicious: It’s a superb

combination of parsley, fennel and pomegran-

ate seeds in a vinaigrette combining maple

syrup, shallots and capers.

1 tablespoon minced shallot


1 tablespoon pure maple syrup

1 tablespoon drained capers


3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive

oil, plus more for rubbing

Four 5-ounce tuna steaks,

about » inch thick

1 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves

» cup pomegranate seeds

» fennel bulb, cored and

very thinly sliced

Hot sauce

1. In a bowl, mix the shallot, vinegar, maple

syrup, capers and a pinch each of salt and pepper;

let stand for 15 minutes. Whisk in the oil.

2. Meanwhile, place the tuna between sheets

of plastic wrap and pound until the steaks are

¥ inch thick. Rub with oil and season with salt

and pepper.

3. Preheat a griddle. Add the tuna and cook

on one side only until lightly seared, 1 minute.

Transfer to plates, browned side up.

4. Add the parsley, pomegranate seeds and

fennel to the dressing and season with hot

sauce. Toss gently, mound the salad over the

tuna and serve right away. —Frank Stitt

wine Fresh, tart rosé: 2009 Chateau Laulerie.



This is a terrific all-in-one meal and an inventive

use for salmon. F&W’s Grace Parisi nestles fillets

in crunchy hunks of ciabatta bread she’s tossed

with tomatoes, capers and superthin slices of

lemon, then bakes the dish until the salmon is

just cooked.

Eight 1-inch-thick slices of ciabatta

(from a 12-ounce loaf), cut into

large chunks


2 pints grape tomatoes, halved


2 tablespoons salted capers,

rinsed and coarsely chopped

1 lemon, halved lengthwise and

very thinly sliced

¥ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

» teaspoon crushed red pepper


2 pounds center-cut skinless

salmon fillet, cut into 2-inch chunks

1. Preheat the oven to 450°. In a large roasting

pan, toss the ciabatta chunks with 2 tablespoons

of the olive oil. Roast for about 5 minutes, until

the bread is lightly toasted.

2. In a large bowl, toss the tomato halves with

the garlic, capers, lemon, parsley, crushed red

pepper and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil; season

with salt and pepper. Stir the tomatoes into the

toasted bread. Roast for 10 to 12 minutes, until

the tomatoes begin to soften and break down.

3. Meanwhile, in the same bowl, toss the salmon

with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and

season with salt and pepper. Nestle the salmon

into the bread and tomatoes, spooning some

of the tomatoes on top. Roast for about 6 minutes,

until the salmon is just cooked through. Serve

right away. —Grace Parisi

wine Lemony Italian white: 2008 Villa Sparina

Gavi di Gavi.

pAn-roAsTEd sALmon-And-BrEAd sALAd active: 15 min; total: 40 min 4 servings



sHrimp sAgAnAki total: 30 min 4 servings

For shrimp saganaki, Greek cooks sauté shrimp

in a pan with tomatoes, olives and feta cheese,

then serve it right out of the skillet with bread

to soak up all the fabulous juices. This quick

and healthy version gets fresh flavor from a

little dill stirred in at the end.

2 tablespoons each of extra-virgin

olive oil and canola oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

6 plum tomatoes (1¼ pounds),

coarsely chopped

Salt

Crushed red pepper

1½ pounds shelled and deveined

large shrimp, halved lengthwise

½ cup pitted kalamata olives,

coarsely chopped

¥ cup chopped fresh dill

3 ounces Greek feta cheese,

crumbled

Crusty bread, for serving

In a large skillet, heat the oil until shimmering.

Add the onion and cook over high heat, stirring

occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5

minutes. Add the tomatoes, season with salt

and crushed red pepper and cook until softened,

crushing them with the back of a spoon, about

5 minutes. Add the shrimp and olives and cook,

stirring occasionally, until the shrimp are cooked

through, about 3 minutes. Stir in the dill and

half of the feta and cook just until the feta is

hot, about 1 minute. Transfer to shallow bowls,

sprinkle with the remaining feta and serve with

crusty bread. —Grace Parisi

wine Citrusy Greek white: 2008 Haggipavlou

Moschofilero.



In the 1920s, a cook at San Francisco’s Palace

Hotel created Green Goddess dressing—a mix

of mayonnaise, herbs, anchovies and lemon—as

a tribute to an actor starring in a play called

The Green Goddess. Instead of serving the dres-

sign with the usual green salad, this recipe uses

it for a chicken salad, made with a rotisserie

bird from the supermarket.

2 oil-packed anchovies, drained

1 small garlic clove

» cup packed flat-leaf parsley leaves

¥ cup packed basil leaves

¥ cup coarsely chopped dill

1 tablespoon oregano leaves

‚ cup mayonnaise

2» tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons snipped chives


One 1-pound loaf of ciabatta—bottom

crust reserved for another use,

bread cut into 1-inch cubes

One 2-pound rotisserie chicken—skin

and bones discarded, meat pulled

into large bite-size pieces

8 piquillo peppers (from a 9.8-ounce jar),

drained and quartered lengthwise

3 inner celery ribs with

leaves, thinly sliced

» cup pitted kalamata olives, halved

1. In a food processor, pulse the anchovies, garlic,

parsley, basil, dill and oregano until coarsely

chopped. Add the mayonnaise and lemon juice

and process until smooth. Fold in the chives;

season with salt and pepper.

2. In a large bowl, toss the ciabatta with the

chicken, piquillo peppers, celery and olives.

Add the dressing and toss to coat. Season with

salt and pepper and serve. —Melissa Rubel

Jacobson

make ahead The dressing can be refrigerated

for up to 2 days.

wine Light Pinot Noir: 2009 Cono Sur Vision.

grEEn goddEss CHiCkEn sALAd total: 35 min 6 servings



This extremely refreshing noodle salad calls for

grapefruit juice and plenty of cilantro and mint

but—surprisingly—not a drop of oil.

½ pound dried rice noodles,

about ¼ inch wide

¾ cup fresh grapefruit juice


2 tablespoons sugar

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon

Asian fish sauce

½ pound cabbage, finely

shredded (4 cups)

3 large scallions, thinly sliced

½ pound cooked chicken,

cut into long strips

½ cup chopped cilantro

¼ cup chopped mint

Sriracha (chile sauce), for serving

1. In a bowl, cover the noodles with cold water

and let stand until pliable, 25 minutes. Drain. Bring

a saucepan of water to a boil. Add the noodles and

cook, stirring, until al dente, 1 min ute. Drain the

noodles in a colander and return them to the pan.

Fill the saucepan with cold water and swish the

noodles around. Drain and swish the noodles

2 more times. Drain the noodles in the colander,

lifting and tossing, until dry.

2. In a small bowl, stir the grapefruit juice with

the garlic, sugar and fish sauce until the sugar

is dissolved.

3. In a large bowl, toss the rice noodles with the

shredded cabbage and scallions. Add the dress-

ing and toss well. Add the chicken, cilantro and

mint and toss. Serve right away, passing Srira-

cha sauce at the table. —Marcia Kiesel

make ahead The dressing can be refrigerated

overnight.

wine Zippy Sauvignon Blanc: 2009 Box

O’Birds.

riCE-noodLE sALAd wiTH CHiCkEn And HErBs active: 30 min; total: 40 min 4 to 6 s e r v i n g s



Thai restaurants offer larb (or laab) as an irre-

sistible appetizer: ground meat spiked with

chiles, lime juice and fish sauce and served with

lettuce leaves for wrapping.

2 pounds ground pork


2 small shallots, minced

1 large jalapeño, seeded and

minced, plus sliced jalapeño

for garnish

Juice of 1 lime, plus lime wedges,

for serving

2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce

1 teaspoon light brown sugar

1 teaspoon Sriracha (chile sauce),

plus more for serving

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

» cup chopped cilantro

» cup chopped mint

» cup chopped basil


1 cup chopped salted peanuts

1 large head Boston or

other leafy lettuce, separated

into leaves

1. In a bowl, mix the pork, garlic, shallots and

minced jalapeño. In a small bowl, whisk the lime

juice, fish sauce, brown sugar and the 1 teaspoon

of Sriracha.

2. In a skillet, heat the oil. Add the pork mixture

and cook over high heat, stirring to break up the

meat, until no pink remains, 5 minutes. Remove

from the heat and stir in the lime juice mixture.

Let stand for 5 minutes. Transfer the meat to a

bowl; stir in the herbs. Season with salt and

pepper. Top with the pea nuts and sliced jalapeño.

Serve with lime wedges, Sriracha and lettuce for

wrapping. —Tom Mylan

wine Off-dry Riesling: 2008 Poet’s Leap.

THAi ground pork sALAd total: 40 min 6 servings



Turkey breast is great on the grill, since it cooks

evenly and takes on a nicely smoky flavor. Brush-

ing it with mango chutney creates a very tasty,

sweet-and-sticky glaze.

One 7-pound whole boneless

turkey breast

Kosher salt and freshly

ground pepper

1¥ cups mango chutney, plus

more for serving

3 cups cilantro leaves and

tender stems

2 cups mint leaves

‚ cup water


1. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Set the turkey

skin side down on a work surface. With the knife

parallel to the work surface, cut through the

breast, leaving 1 inch of meat attached at one

side, then open it up like a book; the goal is to

have meat that is of even thickness. Season

with salt and pepper. Grill the turkey over mod-

erate heat, turning once, until the skin is crisp

and the meat is just cooked through, about 25

minutes.

2. Meanwhile, microwave 1 cup of the mango

chutney until it melts slightly, about 1 minute;

scrape into a food processor and puree until

smooth. Transfer the pureed chutney to a bowl.

In the same food processor, puree the remaining

chutney with the cilantro, mint, water and oil

until smooth; season with salt and pepper.

3. Once the turkey is just cooked through, brush

it with the plain pureed chutney and grill, turn-

ing once, until the chutney forms a sticky glaze,

about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the turkey

to a cutting board, cover with foil and let rest

for 10 minutes. Carve the turkey and serve with

the cilantro-mint sauce and chutney. —Melissa

Rubel Jacobson

wine Vibrant rosé: 2009 Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Etna.

mAngo-gLAzEd TurkEY BrEAsT active: 20 min; total: 45 min 8 servings



The secret to these juicy burgers is the zippy

sauce, which is made with fat-free yogurt, dill

pickles and hot peppers.

½ cup fat-free, plain Greek yogurt

½ cup chopped dill pickles

2 tablespoons chopped

pickled hot peppers

Kosher salt and freshly

ground black pepper

2¼ pounds lean ground turkey

1 teaspoon smoked

sweet paprika

Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing

6 whole wheat English muffins or

hamburger buns, split

Lettuce and sliced red onion and

tomatoes, for serving

1. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. In a medium

bowl, mix the yogurt with the dill pickles and

hot peppers and season with salt and black

pepper.

2. In a large bowl, gently knead the turkey with

the paprika and 1½ teaspoons of salt. Form the

meat into 6 patties, about ¾ inch thick. Brush

the patties with olive oil and season lightly with

salt and black pepper. Grill the patties over mod-

erately high heat, turning once or twice, until

cooked through, about 12 min utes. Grill the

English muffins on both sides until toasted,

about 2 minutes.

3. Spread the pickle sauce on the English muffins.

Top with the burgers, lettuce, onion and tomatoes.

Close the sandwiches and serve right away.

—Grace Parisi

make ahead The pickle sauce can be refriger-

ated overnight.

beer Crisp, malty lager: Bluepoint Toasted

Lager.

TurkEY BurgErs wiTH spiCY piCkLE sAuCE total: 30 min 6 servings



F&W’s Melissa Rubel Jacobson mixes creamy

yogurt with honey so it’s deliciously sweet and

tangy, spreads it in a graham-cracker crust

spiced with bits of crystallized ginger and

arranges plump blueberries neatly on top.

10 whole graham crackers,

broken into pieces

¥ cup crystallized ginger,

finely chopped

1 tablespoon sugar

Pinch of salt


melted

1 large egg white

2 cups Greek-style nonfat

yogurt, drained overnight

2 tablespoons honey

1» cups blueberries (9 ounces)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Spray a 14-by-4»-

inch rectangular fluted tart pan with a remov-

able bottom with cooking spray. In a food

processor, pulse the graham crackers with the

crystallized ginger, sugar and salt until finely

ground. Add the butter and egg white and pulse

until the crumbs are evenly coated. Press the

crumbs evenly over the bottom and up the sides

of the tart pan. Bake for about 20 minutes, until

the crust is lightly browned. Let the crust cool

completely.

2. In a medium bowl, mix the drained yogurt

with the honey. Spread the yogurt in the crust

and arrange the blueberries over the surface

of the yogurt. Cut the tart in slices and serve.

—Melissa Rubel Jacobson

make ahead The baked crust can be wrapped

in plastic and kept at room temperature over-

night.

HonEYEd YogurT And BLuEBErrY TArT active: 25 min; total: 1 hr 15 min plus overnight draining 8 servings

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