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Workshop 4 Fair trade cotton and supply chain justice
in public procurement: Why and how?
Bremen 27th March 2014
.
Introduction to Fairtrade cotton What is it about?
Why Fairtrade cotton? What benefits does it bring to producers?Please see all the answers in this short clip
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOj1hb2_7_8
The Cotton JourneyHow do we get from seed to shirt?
Farmer growing cottonFrench postmen wearing Fairtrade-certified cotton T-shirts
Intensive Farming Traditional Farming
Average cultivated area: 450 ha in USA, 2,000
ha in Brazil
Monoculture
Often irrigated
Mechanised picking
Average of 10 chemical treatements
(insecticides, herbicides, defoliants, growth
regulants)
David & Goliath
Average cultivated area: between 0.5 to 8 ha
Polyculture (food security))
Generally rainfed
Manual picking
Average of 4-5 insecticide treatments
Cotton plant Cotton harvest
Ginning Spinning
Knitting Dyeing
Sewing Cutting
Printing Embroidery
Street weepers in Paris wearing Fairtrade-cotton certified uniforms
French Postmen wearing Fairtrade-certified cotton T-shirts
The Why?
How partners of the “Cotton on to Fairtrade procurement”
project have engaged with public procurers and the public
on Fairtrade cotton
Bremen 27th March 2014
Workers Rights Consortium
http://peopleandplanet.org/sweatshopfree/wrc
Plate-forme Française pour le Commerce Équitable
French Fair Trade Platform
http://www.commercequitable.org/
Fair trade cotton market in France
14 M€ sales for fair trade cotton in France (+/- 12% of world sales amounting to more than 1T)
1,6 Million pieces sold in FT cotton
70% of the market= BtoB
around 1 million € for the public sector
Number of agents wearing FT workwear
City of Paris: 11000 (1/3)
Region Britany: 3000 persons (100%)
Region Pays de la Loire: 2500 persons (80%)
La Poste: more than 2 million pieces ordered since 2006
And as well National railways, ministry of Defense, Region Nord-Pas de Calais, Rhône-Alpes, Aquitaine (high school staff), cities of Grenoble, Reims, Bourg en Bresse, Tassin la Demie-Lune….
Raising awareness among public procurers
Training and practises sharing for procurers and elected officials
More than 300 persons trained in 2013 on fair trade, fair trade towns campaign and fair trade public procurement
Tools for procurers
Practical guide for professionnal procurement issued 2014
Observatory on fair trade public procurement
10 tenders identified and shared on textile in 2013
Cotton on to Fairtrade
• 9th Annual Supporters Conference Theme ‘Cotton on to Fairtrade and Procurement ’
• Officially opened by Minister Jan O’Sullivan TD, Minister of State with responsibility for Overseas Development Assistance.
• 70 Fairtrade groups represented.
• Presented research and information on public procurement in Ireland, distributed 70 tool kits with cotton leaflet and 16 page cotton booklet.
• Media Trip to Chetna Organic in India(The Director of Fairtrade Ireland, Peter Gaynor, travelled to cotton producing organization Chetna Organic in India with a prominent Irish journalist, Dr Oliver Moore).
• Fairtrade Fortnight 2012 ‘Take a Step for Cotton Farmers’ was launched with the President of Ireland Michael D Higgins in Áras an Uachtaráin with guest Samatha Valluri, Senior Programme Officer with Chetna Organic.
Take a step for cotton farmers
How far will you go forcotton farmers in 2013?
• 10th Annual Fairtrade Towns, Stakeholders and Supporters Conference
• Fairtrade FORTNIGHT ‘Go Further for Cotton Farmers in 2013’
• Public Procurement Presentation and Q&A at annual conference.
• Case studies and procurement leaflet distributed to 60 groups
Cotton Exhibition
• Fairtrade Ireland worked with Sean Hawkey in the preparations and planning of the trip to Senegal in February 2013. A photographic exhibition was prepared in late February and launched during Fairtrade Fortnight 2013.
Attended by 80 fashion designers, students and activists, the event featured workshops and a panel discussion on cotton production, business and procurement. 40 Cotton Business/Procurement toolkits were distributed at this event. The panel was chaired by journalist Susan Morrell from the Sunday Business Post. The event was filmed and distributed via you tube.
Irish Rail go 100% Fairtrade coffee on all trainsthey are considering other Fairtrade items including cotton
Extensive local and national newspaper coverage of Fairtrade Fortnight
Advertising value of the coverage was equivalent to over half a million euro (Kantar Media)
Guests from Senegal engaged with 15 schools while in Ireland, reaching 500 students
Over 25 thousand cotton leaflets distributed
Fairtrade Ireland produced 300 toolkits and distributed 250 toolkits to schools There were 557 unique visits to the schools cotton resource online
Cotton Photo Exhibition shown in 8 locations to date (Limerick City Council hosted cotton exhibition as part of Limerick City being capital of Culture).
Launched cotton section on Fairtade website
Presented procurement guide at conference
The Power of You campaign for Fairtrade Fortnight 2014
Worked with national TV broadcaster to deliver 2 X 5 min clips on
national television during Fairtrade Fortnight, estimated views
around quarter of a million.
Cotton leaflet redesigned and 7000 copies distributed
Dublin City Council demonstrated its commitment to Fairtrade by distributing cotton materials to libraries, schools and sports facilities across its 5 areas.
(Have committed to touring the cotton exhibition in county and city libraries later in 2014 and 2015.
There was extensive local and national newspaper coverage during Fairtrade Fortnight, (we will commission a survey) - Estimated media value generated should be well over a million.
The how?
How public authorities in Europe are
planning to and already purchasing
Fairtrade cotton
Bremen 27th March 2014
Case City of Ghent: mapping excercise
Our actions for Fair Trade
- Fair Trade Town (since 2004, first in Belgium)
- progressive policies on sustainable procurement
- several CSO’s act on socially responsible trade & consumption
- intensive awareness raising campaigns on Fair & Ethical trade
Our analysis today
Classical segments are covered, we need to take a next step
Demand side needs to grow, but this is not the only bumb in the road
Supply side needs to grow accordingly
Our limitations
Lack of in depth knowledge and a comprehensive network of actors in specific segments (for-profit generally being a blind spot).
Case City of Ghent: mapping excercise
Our pilot project: Sustainable & Fair textiles
(1) Mapping excercise (partially outsourced)
° analysing potential of textile segment to contribute to awareness
raising and activation of consumers on sustainability & ethical trade.
° mapping interests, posibilities, limitations of all relevant stakeholders
(2) Two year campaign (close cooperation with Oxfam Fair Trade)
° awareness raising and activation of private and public consumers
° multi-stakeholder involvement (support base & activation supply side)
° give boost to supply of sustainable & fair textiles on local market
Case City of Ghent: mapping excercise
Our contact details:
Wouter Boesman
Coordinator office of North-Southcooperation
City of Ghent
VILLE DE PARIS 2009 2010 2011 2012
CHIFFRE D’AFFAIRES 295 405 € 372 662 € 418 038 € 329 752 €
NOMBRE DE PIECES 18 196 23 269 25 678 20 573
VOLUME COTON FIBRE 11 tonnes 9,9 tonnes 11,5 tonnes 12,5 tonnes
NOMBRE DE PIECES
+27,9%
+10,4%
-11,6%
CHIFFRE D'AFFAIRES
2009 2010 2011 2012
+26,2%
-10,4%
VOLUME COTON FIBRE
+15,6%
+6,7%
-10,1%
Bilan chiffré Ville de PARIS• Volumes Ville de PARIS entre 2009 et 2012
La Ville de Paris & le coton équitable: bilan chiffré 2012
2009 2010 2011 2012 2009 2010 2011 2012
+12,2%
Achats de coton équitable de la Ville de PARIS
:• Equivalent de Prime de Développement versée
• à l’organisation de producteurs
1,315 €1,182 €
1,366 €1,458 €
2009 2010 2011 2012Montant de la Prime : 0,05€/kg de coton graine
VILLE DE PARIS 2009 2010 2011 2012
VOLUME COTON FIBRE 11 tonnes 9,9 tonnes 11,5 tonnes 12,5 tonnes
VOLUME COTON GRAINE 26,3 tonnes 23,6 tonnes 27,3 tonnes 29,2 tonnes
1kg coton fibre = 0,42kg coton graine
Equivalent des achats en volume de coton graine
Equivalent du montant de la prime versée aux organisations de producteurs
La Ville de Paris & le coton équitable: bilan chiffré 2012
Depuis 2009 :5 321€ versés
110,513
367,734
299,045
326,540
293,687
224,007 222,873
192,670 187,025
-
50,000
100,000
150,000
200,000
250,000
300,000
350,000
400,000
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014(prévisions)
Evolution des ventes de produits
en coton équitable 2006-2014
(en nombre de pièces)
644,207 €
2,889,788 €
2,224,115 €
2,587,155 €
1,611,372 €
1,229,262 € 1,223,507 €
1,030,591 € 997,609 €
- €
500,000 €
1,000,000 €
1,500,000 €
2,000,000 €
2,500,000 €
3,000,000 €
3,500,000 €
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014(prévisions)
Evolution du budget achat de produits
en coton équitable 2006-2014
en euro HT
Thank you for your attention
Elba Estrada
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.fairprocurement.info/
