Welcome to the steppe!” I still clearly remember the words of the smiling gentleman delivering two glasses of

wine to the table on the terrace of the little wine pub, on my first ever visit to Burgenland. As I sipped my Blaufränkisch, I admit to wondering what, exactly, he meant, though before he came back with a second glass I had started to get an inkling.

The terrace itself nestled among reed beds, beyond which stretched a long, wide, shallow lake, or really an inland sea, whose opposite shore lay beyond the horizon. We had driven to the lakeside (or, technically, reedside) terrace from Vienna via a low, forested range of hills that separate Austria’s easternmost province from the rest of the country. Once we had broached these hills, there was a palpable change of geography from the rest of the country. The scenery was flat, stretching towards a horizon; the soil holding the vineyards that stretched in either direction seemed drier; the air was

still, the sky clear, the sun blazing. Two flocks of birds almost crossed each other in mid-sky over the lake.

I didn’t realise at the time, but on entering Burgenland, the province surrounding the great Lake Neusiedl, we had left Alpine Europe behind and entered Pannonia, the westernmost part of the great Eurasian plain that stretches to Siberia. Far from being another deep, clear Alpine lake, carved out of steep mountainsides, Neusiedl is a shallow – less than 2 metres deep – saltwater lake, surrounded by wetlands. The atmosphere is different, too. This is the warmest, sunniest part of Austria and the chillout vibe is palpable.

VinotherapyAny visit to Burgenland is incomplete without an experience of the wine and the culture around it. The warm climate lends itself well to red and noble sweet grape varieties, unlike Austria’s north, which is perfect for zingy, complex whites. Experience the regional Blaufränkisch and Zweigelts

Slow Down: Burgenland

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Chillout zoneEscape, peace, space – all of these abound in magical Burgenland

from world-renowned producers in restaurants in towns like Eisenstadt, the capital (made famous by Joseph Haydn and still a musical centre) or simply by dropping into a wine pub among the reed beds, all of which serve both red and white wines, the latter often freshly made and refreshingly spritzy. With the white wines, try locally-caught zander, carp and pike; with the reds, dishes made from the local breeds of Mangalitsa pork and beef.

In the calm and silence that abound in this province, a little stroll along the nearest path is bound to reveal some or other migratory bird soaring overhead; the lake is a major stopover on the avian migration highway, made even more attractive by its lack of obvious development. You may well be tempted onto one of the many guided bird watching expeditions, with up to 300 species on show in their natural habitat.

Mik

e Ra

nz

Opposite page, from top: Mole West is a café and

fine dining restaurant on the shores of Lake Neusiedl;

the lake is home to 300 species of bird

w o R d s b y d a R i u s s a n a i

Slow Down Meet the locals

28 Austria’s Hidden Treasures www.austria.info/treasures www.austria.info/treasures Austria’s Hidden Treasures 29

CyCle heaVenTo clear the head after a good evening of fine red wine, I recommend doing as I did and taking to two wheels the next day. There are a breathtaking 2,500 kilometres of bicycle paths, including one skirting the lake and others weaving through vineyard, reed and forest. Many are perfectly flat; and if another type of riding takes your fancy, there are dozens of stables and 1,300 kilometres of horse riding paths. Many stables will provide riders with GPS navigation equipment free of charge.

natural health serViCeJust being in Burgenland is a tonic, with the climate, the peace and feeling of exoticism. But there is also no shortage of natural thermal springs and spas of all types, from holistic healing at traditional health centres to bang-up-to-date hotel spas designed inside sustainably-created, harmonious wooden architecture. There’s nothing that jars in Burgenland.

Of particular interest to those seeking to cleanse both body and soul is the panoply of waters: in a country of mineral water, Burgenland is the mineral water capital, and in many spots you can catch these at their source, accompanied by thermal spring treatments. The Burgenland Therme in Bad Tatzmannsdorf focuses on water as the source of life and has five themed saunas. The Stegersbach resort is famed for the soothing effect of its waters on aching joints and muscles. At the Sonnentherme Lutzmannsburg- Frankenau the whole family (babies too) can embark on natural spa therapy.

Meanwhile the new St Martin’s Therme & Lodge in Frauenkirchen is an upmarket, eco-chic hotel with a sophisticated spa, delicious cuisine and that memorable view, outwards and upwards, of utter peace that so perfectly characterises Burgenland.

‘The Neusiedler See region is different from the rest of Austria. Because of the steppe, the reed belt, dozens of salt lakes and wet meadows it is a crucial stepping stone for the European-African bird migration flyway and is very important as a point for bird watching in Central Europe. The easily accessible habitats are perfect for birdwatching as about 320 species can be found here – more than anywhere else in Austria or Central Europe. The Bird Experience 2011 is a mixture of lectures, excursions and exhibitions and will take place from 15th to 17th April. The aim is to offer a thorough overview of the birdwatching industry and regional bio-diversity to both beginners and experts. There’ll be lectures and workshops on birds and bird observation is available as well as excursions to the protected areas at Lake Neusiedl, in Hanság on the Danube and Morava and in the Sopron Mountains. Don’t miss it!’

‘The region of Lake Neusiedl is known as a unique wine region. The lake is a climate regulator and the Pannonian climate guarantees a high quality of wine – in the winter, it’s cold and has snow, in the summer, it’s hot and humid – and due to the blazing sun, the evaporation of Lake Neusiedl is very high. 2,000 hours of sunshine, high humidity and an average of 550mm of rain per year provide climatically unique conditions for the production of premium wines. The white wines like Welschriesling convince with their gentle fruit nuances; full-bodied, elegant reds (such as Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent and Zweigelt) have helped to create an awareness for this region in the world of wine and win recognition in the blind taste tests. The unique conditions of the soil here (stony soil composed of sand and clay) also assists in guaranteeing the success of a large variety of grapes.’

Harald GrabenhoferBirdwatcher

Andi LiegenfeldWinemaker

Slow down the Austrian way

Think spa, think Austria. Imagine backdrops of stunning natural beauty, world-renowned service levels and a culture of true spa expertise and innovation. Whilst treating yourself to a stay in one of Austria’s fifteen four and five star spa retreat hotels, you will find yourself in the hands of professional practitioners with years of extensive training. Located on mountaintops or in valleys, each boasts its own uniqueness and each meets the highest international spa standards and radiates Austrian warmth and character. Combine your spa experience with a host of outdoor activities and enjoy exquisite dining. It’s the perfect blend of well-being.

Europe’s second longest river, the Danube, flows like a lifeline through Austria, drawing its ribbon-like path through Upper and Lower Austria, wending its way through highly diverse landscapes. For years, the most popular biking trail in Europe has been the one along the Danube and usually bikers start this scenic route in the town of Passau, also known as the ‘City of Three Rivers,’ because the Danube is joined here by the Inn from the south and the Ilz from the north. From here, it gently descends, always close to the riverside, leading you through cities and dreamy villages, past fortress ruins, monasteries and convents.

The town of Scheffau in the Wilder Kaiser region is totally unique in that it is dedicated to the legendary health philosophy of the pastor Sebastian Kneipp. Here you can experience the healing benefits of the Kneipp method, whereby through light, air, weather, diet, peace and exercise, illnesses can be eased or healed altogether and health maintained. But the dedication to the Kneipp method is not the only reason to visit Scheffau – there are also plenty of activities on offer here, including hiking, watersports, mountain-biking and golf, all which allow you to appreciate the stunning scenery in the heart of the impressive Kitzbühel Alps.

Summer can often mean allergies for many of us but you don’t need to worry when visiting the village of Kühtai in the Stubai Alps in the Sellrain valley. Because of its location at 2,000 metres, it has become a favourite place for allergy sufferers to visit. Enjoy stunning landscapes and hiking on trails through pollen free air and drink water from the crystal clear mountain springs. Visit the three lakes that are easy to get to on foot – the Finstertaler reservoir, Lake Plenderle and Lake Hirscheben. Just like the high performance athletes who train here in the high-altitude environment, you’ll feel in optimum health after a visit here.

Austria's finest spa hotels

The Danube biking trail

Natural remedy

High-altitude healing