Wolverhampton City Trail · and this trail has been produced to provide an enjoyable and informative experience for those with an interest in the heritage of the city. Take extra

Wolverhampton City Trail

An historical journey through the center of Wolverhampton

Discover Wolverhampton 02

IntroductionThere has been a settlement on the site ofWolverhampton for over a thousand yearsand on this trail you will discover some ofthe important buildings and structures which have associations with famous peopleand events that have shaped the history of the city.

The conservation and enhancement ofhistoric buildings and environments areimportant aspects of the council’s work and this trail has been produced to providean enjoyable and informative experience forthose with an interest in the heritage of the city.

Take extra care on the route as traffic in thecity centre is very busy and the trail crossesthe entrances to several car parks.

The route of the trail forms a figure of ‘8’ soit is possible to do it as two separate walks ifyou wish. Both loops start and finish at thestatue of Prince Albert in Queen Square.

Queen SquareIn 1866 Queen Victoria visitedWolverhampton to unveil the statue ofPrince Albert on horseback you see beforeyou. It was her first public engagementfollowing the death of Prince Albert and inhonour of the occasion the High Green wasrenamed Queen Square.

Carefully cross the road and stopwhere you can see above the door tothe NatWest Bank.This is a good example of the EdwardianBaroque style of architecture built in 1905for the National Provincial Bank. Look at therailings at the side of the building and youwill see plaques with the banks name on.Before you move on, look up at the twofigures sitting on the pediment above thedoor. One holds a sheaf of corn and theother a hammer symbolising agriculture andindustry.

Button Gwinnett blue plaque Timber framed building



Walk into Exchange StreetOn the right-hand side, next to the coffeeshop, you will see one of the few remaining16th century timber framed buildings tosurvive in the city centre. The building hasrecently been converted into a public housecalled the Lich Gate Tavern. The entrance isoff Lich Gates where this trail ends. Nextdoor stands St. Peter’s House which datesfrom the middle of the 19th century. On thewall you will see a circular blue plaqueabout Button Gwinnett. There are manyblue plaques like this one on this trail – lookout for them and find out more aboutfamous people and places. Exchange Streetis so named because at one time theWolverhampton Corn Exchange building waslocated at the end of this street, where theWar Memorials stand today. Built in the early1850s the Corn Exchange was so poorlyconstructed that it had to be demolishedless than 50 years later and gardens werecreated on the site.

Carry on until you reach the opensquare outside the Civic Centre.The Civic Centre houses the main offices ofthe city council and was opened in 1979 byJim Callaghan who was then the PrimeMinister. To the right you can see the mainWolverhampton War Memorial which waserected in 1922. At the top are four figures– a soldier, a sailor, a pilot and St George(with a sword). Below is the Wolverhamptoncoat of arms. Look for the cross keys of St.Peter at the top. Below, in the four cornersof the cross, you can see a pillarrepresenting the Saxon Cross (seen later onthis trail); a book representing learning(probably the grammar school); a woolpack(symbol of the source of the town’s wealthin the middle ages); and a padlock (symbolof more recent industrial wealth). Also in thegardens is a silver birch tree planted as amemorial to those injured or killed inaccidents at work.

St. Peter’s Church Lady Wulfrun Statue



After exploring the gardens go to themiddle of the square and look towardsthe beautiful west front of St. Peter’sChurch.There has been a church on this site since atleast 994AD when Lady Wulfrun grantedland to a monastery at Wolverhampton.There is a statue of her standing in front ofthe church, by local sculptor CharlesWheeler, erected to celebrate the centenaryof the Express and Star Newspaper in 1974.

Lady Wulfrun is shown holding the charter, ascroll with a large seal attached, granting landto the monastery at ‘Heantun’ (meaning highplace) and an extract from the charter is cutinto the steps below which reads: “I Wulfrun,do grant to the proper patron and highthroned King of Kings, and (in honour of)the everlasting Virgin Mother of God, Mary,and of all the saints for the body of myhusband and of my soul, ten hides of land,to that aforesaid monastery of the servantsof God there”. After this generous gift thetown took on the name of its benefactor andthereafter was known as ‘Wulfrun Heantun’

which has evolved into the modern nameWolverhampton. Look out for the creamcoloured interpretation panels if you want tofind out more about Lady Wulfrun.

Continue around the right-hand side ofthe Civic Centre and take the steps orramp up to Wulfruna Street, turn left,cross the entrance to the undergroundcar park and stop.From here you have a good view of theUniversity of Wolverhampton campusbuildings. The university had its origins asthe Wolverhampton and South StaffordshireTechnical College and the fine range ofbuildings to the right facing onto WulfrunaStreet was open in 1933. The universitycampus has grown since then and one ofthe most recent additions, the HarrisonLearning and Resource Centre, is the strikingglass fronted building before you whichhouses a state of the art library. This buildingwon the city council’s Environmental Awardin 2004.

Harrison Learning and Resource Centre Giffard House (Wadhams Fold)



Now carefully cross the entrance to theCivic Centre ceremonial car park, bearleft and take the ramp down toWadhams Fold, bear to your left andstop at the bottom of the hill.From here you can see two of the finest18th century buildings in the city. Firstly lookover the ring road where you will see theMolineux Hotel which today houses the CityArchives and Local Studies. Originally built asa private house for wealthy ironmasterBenjamin Molineux in the 1720s thebuilding was further extended in the mideighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Alandmark clock tower was added in 1860when the grounds opened as publicpleasure grounds. Behind the building youcan just see the bright yellow structure ofthe Wolverhampton Wanderer’s FootballStadium. The football ground wasestablished in the Hotels grounds in 1889.

The second building which can be seenfrom here is Giffard House, built between1726-33 as a Priest’s residence and MassHouse. The architect was probably Francis

Smith who was born in nearby Tettenhall,but is known as ‘Smith of Warwick’ wherehe established his practice and became oneof the most famous architects of his day. By1804 Giffard House had become theheadquarters for the Roman Catholic Churchin the Midlands and Bishop John Milnerlived here until his death in 1826.

Now walk around to the left side ofGiffard House until you come to a setof gates on your right.Inside the gates you can see the Church ofSt. Peter and St. Paul which joins onto theback of Giffard House. Look for statues ofthe two saints on top of the entrance porch.The original small chapel inside GiffardHouse was enlarged in 1765 and thenextended in 1826 in the Greek Revival styleby architect John Ireland. The church has anexceptionally fine interior and if you arelucky enough to be here when the church isopen it is well worth a look. Bishop Milner is actually buried in the crypt.

Church of St. Peter & St. Paul Civic Hall, North Street



Turn left and go along North Streetkeeping the Civic Centre on your left.(Take extra care crossing vehicleentrances to the civic Centre on thissection of the trail).The Wolverhampton Civic Hall, opposite theCivic Centre, designed by architects Lyonsand Israel and opened in 1938, is one ofthe most popular live music venues in theMidlands, the design was influenced by thatof Stockholm Concert Hall in Sweden.Recent improvements and extensions (seethe two glass fronted side extensions at firstfloor level) to provide better facilities anddisabled access received a Civic Trust Awardin 2004. The interior retains many originalperiod features.

A little further along North Street you willfind the old Town Hall which was opened in1871. The design of this building, by ErnestBates, was influenced by the New Louvre inParis which had been completed in1857.

Turn right into Blossom’s Fold, to theleft of the Town Hall building.Blossom’s Fold is one of many place namesin Wolverhampton that commemorate thewool trade which made Wolverhampton awealthy town during the 14th and 15thcenturies.

Turn left and continue to the end ofBlossom’s Fold then turn right downDarlington Street, cross the junctionwith Red Lion Street and stop whenyou reach the next busy crossroads.Here are two important buildings. Over thejunction on the right stands ClockChambers, built in 1938/9 as a showroomand offices for the Wolverhampton GasCompany, this is an important example ofthe work of local modernist architect RichardTwentyman.

In complete contrast on the opposite cornerstands the grand Baroque style DarlingtonStreet Methodist Church with its greencopper dome designed by the architectArthur Marshall and opened in 1901. This

Old Town Hall, North Street Darlington Street Methodist Church



building replaced an earlier MethodistChurch on the same site, parts of whichwere incorporated into the new building.The interior of the church is very fine andopen for church services and occasionalopen days and concerts.

Now turn left, carefully crossingDarlington Street, and walk alongSchool Street.In School Street, to the rear of the church,you can see the old school which gives thisstreet its name. It dates from the mid 19thcentury and now houses the church office.

Turn left into Skinner Street On the right is a classic example of 1930scinema architecture designed by the HarryWeedon architectural practice for the Odeonchain. It is faced with black and creamcoloured faience tiles and has a streamlinedlandmark tower. The auditorium once heldalmost 2000 people. This building is one ofthe most complete surviving inter-warcinemas in England. It was converted into a

banqueting suite in 2008 but the interiordecoration is still largely intact.

Go to the end of Skinner Street andwhen you reach Victoria Street, crossthe road at the pelican crossing just toyour left.Here you can see another of the raresurviving timber framed buildings in the citycentre. In 1590 there was a great fire inWolverhampton which destroyed 104houses in this part of the town. This buildingmost likely dates from the period ofrebuilding following the fire and was knownas The Hand Inn throughout the 17thcentury. The date 1300 on the front iswrong! The square panels on the side andclose studding (upright timbers set closetogether) on the street frontage are typicalof the West Midlands where timber framedconstruction was the most common methodof building before bricks became morereadily available in the 18th and 19thcenturies.

Timber framed building (Victoria Street) Rock Form by artist Barbara Hepworth



You may now choose to make a shortdiversion into the Mander Centre (if itis open). If not just carry on up the hilluntil you reach the clock tower at thetop of Victoria Street.The Mander Centre is built on the site of theoriginal Mander Brothers’ paint and varnishworks which had been established in thecentre of the town in 1773. This was animportant industry in Wolverhampton andthe Mander family became very wealthy.They built themselves a fine new house inWightwick at the end of the 19th century,which is today owned by the National Trustand is open to the public.www.nationaltrust.org.uk/wightwick-manor

The shopping centre was opened in 1968and has been modernised many timessince, most recently in 2002/4. Inside (nearthe central escalators) you will find a bronzesculpture by the artist Barbara Hepworthentitled Rock Form.

Continue through the Mander Centrekeeping to the lower level and turn leftto exit the centre at the top of VictoriaStreet near the clock tower.On the opposite side of the road standsBeatties department store opened in 1929.James Beattie opened his first drapery shopin Victoria Street in 1877 and the venturewas so successful that by the time the streetwas widened in the late 1920s thecompany was able to build a large brandnew store.

Turn right and go to the top of VictoriaStreet.The corner plot of what is now Beatties wasoriginally taken by Burton’s the gents’outfitters and if you look up at thisremarkable Art Deco frontage you will seethe distinctive elephant head motifs whichappeared on many of their buildings fromthis period.

Beatties - Elephant head motifs Lloyds TSB Bank, Queen Square



Turn right at the top of the hill and youwill find yourself back in QueenSquare.

The second half of the trail starts here.

Continue past the statue of PrinceAlbert and stop in front of Lloyds TSBbank.This building was designed in the ItalianateStyle by J A Chatwin in 1878. The top floorwas probably a later addition. Look for thebands of relief sculpture showing coalminers on the left, farmers in the middleand metal workers on the right.

Turn right into Dudley Street and thenfirst left into King Street.The buildings on the left of this street forman almost complete Georgian terrace. It wasvirtually completely derelict in the 1980s buthas now been fully restored. The Old StillInn at the far end has been a public housesince 1836 and the daughter of one of the

landlords, Maggie Teyte (1886-1976),became an internationally famous operasinger.

Turn right into Princess Street thenturn left into Queen Street, crossingthe road at the traffic lights.Queen Street has been described as thebest street in Wolverhampton and doescontain a number of interesting buildings.The first of these to look for is the 1930sExpress and Star building. Under an arch athigh level you will see a sculpture of Mercuryby Robert Jackson Emerson who was apersonal friend of the proprietor of thenewspaper at the time. Mercury was themessenger of the Gods in Roman Mythologyand is shown against a five pointed star. Healso appears above the clock.

The next building to note is No. 50, now anAustralian theme bar. This was built in 1813as the first subscription library inWolverhampton and was used by thewealthier residents of the town. The upperstorey, with the coat of arms, was added in

Lloyds TSB Bank, Detail of farmers King Street - general view



1829 by the architect Lewis Vulliamy for useas assembly rooms. It was here that the firstmeeting of the town council was held inMay 1848 and for many years it was alsoused as the County Court.

Next to the former County Court is a terraceof 3 typical Georgian town houses withclassical doorcases and fanlights and slidingsash windows. Middle class people wouldhave lived in houses like these but poorerworking class people lived in cramped andoften unsanitary conditions where diseaseslike cholera and smallpox could spreadquickly. In 1821 a dispensary was opened atNo. 46 Queen Street to provide medicalcare for the poor. This was extended in1826 to provide more hospital beds buteven this was not big enough to meet theneeds of the rapidly growing population andit was eventually closed in 1849 when anew hospital was built.

A little further along at No. 43 stands theformer Mechanics’ Institute (now the ArmyCareers Centre) which opened in 1836.

Here working class people could attendlectures, see exhibitions and use a freelibrary. The library was moved to a site inGarrick Street in 1872 after the passing ofthe Public Libraries Acts enabled localauthorities to provide free libraries.

Stop at the junction with Piper’s Row.The imposing buff brick building on theother side of the road, known as theQueens building, was restored in the late1990s as part of the new WolverhamptonInterchange. Designed by Edward Banks itwas built as the carriage entrance to the oldHigh Level Station and also contained theboardroom for the Shrewsbury andBirmingham Railway Company.

Turn left along Piper’s Row and whenyou get to the junction with LichfieldStreet carefully cross the entrance tothe bus station and walk a little waydown Fryer Street.Looking to your right, you can see the

50 Queen Street Former Dispensary, 46 Queen Street



former Chubb & Sons Lock and Safe Works– look for the white lettering at the top ofthe building – an important monument tothe town’s industrial history. Lock makinghad been established in Wolverhamptonsince the 18th century and Chubbs, one ofthe most successful companies, hadexpanded to such an extent that theycommissioned London based architect C HM Mileham to design this grand new workswhich was opened in 1898. At its height350 locksmiths were employed here. Todaythe building has been converted into amedia centre and contains a cinema, bar,café and offices.

Carry on down Fryer Street and on thecorner of the car park on the left-hand sidestands the former WolverhamptonSynagogue. There has been a synagogue onthis site since 1858 but it was largely rebuiltafter a fire in 1902. Look up at the front ofthe building on the corner with Long Streetand note the date stone. Here you see thedate 1903 and above it 5663, the samedate according to the Jewish calendar.

From here you can cross the road, but becareful it is busy, and have a look inside theChubb building atrium if you wish.

Retrace your footsteps back toLichfield Street and turn right.On your left is the Grand Theatre which wasopened in 1894 and many famous starshave performed here including CharlieChaplin, Marlene Dietrich and SeanConnery. It was also here that Lloyd Georgemade his famous 1918 election speechpledging ‘to make Britain a fit country forheroes to live in’ after the First World War.The theatre is considered to be one of thefinest designed by theatre architect CharlesPhipps and has a beautiful auditorium. It was refurbished at a cost of £8 million in 1998.

Carry on along the road until you reach amajor traffic junction known as PrincesSquare. It was here that the firstmechanically operated traffic lights in thecountry were tested in November 1927.

Chubb Building, Fryer Street Grand Theatre, Lichfield Street



Cross the junction and continue alongLichfield Street until you reach the ArtGallery.The Art Gallery (architect J A Chatwin) wasopened in 1884 by Lord Wrottesley using agolden key made by the Chubb Company.Look up at the carved panels on the front ofthe building. The classical figures representthe arts: sculpture on the right and paintingand drawing on the left; and around thecorner the figures represent the sciencesand local industries like metal working.

Inside, the Art Gallery has a good collectionof Victorian and Georgian paintings and aPop Art Gallery with regular changingexhibitions. There is also an excellent tearoom and shop! (Disabled access is possibleoff St. Peter’s Close).

After exploring the Art Gallery makeyour way into the gardens thatsurround St. Peter’s Church.Lichfield Street was widened in the late1800s following slum clearance to create animpressive route to the new railway station

from the town centre. When the buildingswere cleared everyone agreed that the viewto St. Peter’s Church was so special thatgardens should be laid out on this site. Inthe gardens there are several interestingstructures to look out for including thefountain dedicated to Philip Horseman, amemorial to Able Seaman Harris and a warmemorial in the form of a crucifix. There arealso interpretation panels throughout thegardens.

Take the steps or ramp (to the rear of Barclays Bank) to the highergardens.This is the site of the former graveyard. Theheadstones were cleared in the 1930swhen this part of the gardens was laid out.In the corner you will find the Saxon Cross,surrounded by railings. The cross is about1,000 years old and would have beenerected to commemorate a special event orto mark a preaching place. There probablywould have been a small Saxon churchnearby. Look at the interpretation panel near

Art Gallery, Lichfield Street St. Peter’s Church, Gardens and Fountain



the cross and see if you can make out thesculptures of plants and animals.

Walk back towards the Art Gallery along thepath beside the railings and look out for theBargain Stone inside the railings. It is saidthat business deals were sealed by ahandshake through the hole in olden times.

From here retrace your route back tothe rear of the bank and turn rightuntil you come to a gateway leadingto the porch of St. Peter’s.The church to which Lady Wulfrun gaveextensive estates in 994AD probably stoodon this site. It would have been built oftimber, as the local building stone is verypoor, and would have been quite small insize. The church you see today dates mainlyfrom the 13th and 15th centuries and wasalso partly rebuilt and restored by theVictorians. It is a fine church which manyvisitors mistake for a cathedral because it isso impressive. It is normally open between10am and 4pm and is well worth a visit.

There is a guide book for sale inside. (Note:the West door is normally open if access viathe porch is closed).

When you leave the church continuedown Lich Gates until you once again find yourself in Queen Square.

St. Peter’s Gardens Queen Square


Note about Blue Plaques

The Wolverhampton Civic & HistoricalSociety is responsible for putting upblue plaques in Wolverhampton

If you would like more informationvisit their website:www.cityofwolverhampton.com/blueplaques.html


Walking is an excellent form of gentleexercise. It not only improves yourfitness but also your sense of wellbeing.The following details will help you workout how many steps you have taken andhow much energy you have used:

1 mile = 1760 - 2640 steps(depending on the length of your stride)

(1 mile = 1.6 kilometres)

10,000 steps = the recommendeddaily number of steps to keep healthy.

Walking 1 mile burns approximately100 calories.

By walking this trail you will have:Walked 1.7 miles (2.7 km), takenapproximately 3,400 steps and burnt170 calories.

City Information PointWolverhampton Art GalleryLichfield StreetWolverhamptonWV1 1DU

Telephone: 01902 552055

1 Nat West Bank2 Timber framed building3 St. Peter’s House4 Civic Centre5 War Memorial6 Lady Wulfrun7 St. Peter’s Church8 University buildings9 Harrison Learning Centre10 Molineux Hotel11 Giffard House12 St. Peter’s & St. Paul’s Church13 Civic Hall14 Old Town Hall15 Clock Chambers16 Methodist Church17 Former Odeon Cinema18 Timber framed building19 Mander Centre20 Beatties21 Lloyds TSB Bank22 King Street23 The Old Still Inn24 Express & Star building25 50 Queen Street26 Georgian Houses27 Former Dispensary28 Former Mechanics Institute29 Queen’s building30 Chubb’s Lock Works31 Former Synagogue32 Grand Theatre33 Art Gallery34 St. Peter’s Gardens35 Saxon Cross36 Bargain Stone



MAR

KET

STREETSKINNER ST

BUS STATION

MITRE FOLD

PIPER’S ROW

DUDLEY ST

BILSTON ST

RED LION ST

QUEEN SQ

BERRY ST

KING ST

QUEEN ST

BROAD ST

FRYER ST

STAFFORD ST

WULFRUNA ST

CITY RING RD

SALOP ST

CLEVELAND ST

CASTLE ST

TOWER ST

VICT

ORI

A ST

SCH

OO

LSTR

EET

WATER

LOO

RD

DARLINGTON

STREET

LICHFIELD ST

LICHFIELD ST36

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

29

3031

32

33

3435

22 23

2425

26 27 28

12

3

4

56 7

8

9

10

1112

13

14


Start and Finish Point

Places of Interest

Mander and WulfrunShopping Centres


Contact:City Information Point, Wolverhampton Art Gallery, Lichfield Street, Wolverhampton, WV1 1DU

Tel: 01902 552055

Opening Hours:Monday – Saturday, 10am until 5pm.

Websites:Tourism: www.wolverhampton.gov.uk/visit City Council: www.wolverhampton.gov.ukCity Life: www.wolverhamptoncity.co.uk

www.twitter.com/eventsinwolves

www.facebook.com/eventsinwolves

DisclaimerWhilst every effort has been made to achieve total accuracy, Wolverhampton City Council can accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions, nor forany consequence arising from the use of this guide, therefore it is advisabl e to check times and offers, beforehand. The advertising of any establishmentdoes not imply an official recommendation from Wolverhampton City Council.

Discover more in Wolverhampton!

For all those that enjoy arts & culture, forsports fans everywhere, for families thatenjoy a picnic in the park, for the loyaltheatre goer and for the party animal whoenjoys a night out on the town - there isalways something on offer inWolverhampton to entertain a range ofinterests and age groups.

Find out more information form the city’sinformation point located in one of thecity’s most popular attractions,Wolverhampton Art Gallery. Staff here willbe happy to provide information aboutwhat there is to see and do whilst on yourvisit to Wolverhampton.

Gold Award Winner in the Heart of England in Bloom Awards 2008, 2010, 2011

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WGold Award

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‘10

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‘11‘11

in bloom

Wolverhampton

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Wolverhampton City Trail · and this trail has been produced to provide an enjoyable and informative experience for those with an interest in the heritage of the city. Take extra