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With Performance Testing
� Before addressing performance features, make sure your fabrics and products meet mandatory standards and customer expectations for quality.
� Flammability
� Restricted substances � Special children’s issues
� 16 CFR 1610: Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles � ASTM D1230-10: Standard Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles
� CPAI-75: A Rate of Burn Standard for Sleeping Bags � ASTM F1955-99 (2005): Standard Test Method for Flammability of Sleeping
Bags
� CPAI-84: A Specification for Flame-resistant Materials Used in Camping Tentage
� 16 CFR 1615/1616: Standard for the Flammability of Children's Sleepwear � ASTM D6545-10: Standard Test Method for Flammability of Textiles Used in
Children's Sleepwear
� Other national, state, and local regulations
� Industry standards
� Test method lists in this presentation are NOTNOTNOTNOT comprehensive.
� For every AATCC method listed, there are similar, identical—or totally different—ISO, JIS, BS, etc. methods for measuring the same property.
� CPSIA � Lead (children’s product ≤ 300 ppm; paint ≤ 90 ppm)
� Phthalates (toys and child-care items)
� Cal Prop 65: Cal Prop 65: Cal Prop 65: Cal Prop 65: Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986
� American Apparel & Footwear Association RSL
� Öko-Tex Standard 100
� … � Other government and industry RSLs
� Tougher flammability and toxicity requirements
� ASTM F963-07ε1: Standard Consumer Safety Specification on Toy Safety
� Use and abuse
� Small parts (16 CFR 1500.50-53 and 1501)
� Sharp points (16 CFR 1500.48)
� Sharp edges (16 CFR 1500.49)
� Non-textile standards and regulations
� Care instructions
� Fiber content � Safety � Identification
50% Cotton
50% Polyester Hand or machine
Wash in cold water No bleach
Tumble dry low Made in U.S.A.
M
50% Cotton
50% Polyester Hand or machine
Wash in cold water No bleach
Tumble dry low Made in U.S.A.
M
SHELL: 100% POLYESTER
INSERT: 100% NYLON LINING: 100% NYLON
DOWN: 85% DOWN 15% FEATHER EXCLUSIVE OF ORNAMENTATION
RN92740
SHELL: 100% POLYESTER
INSERT: 100% NYLON LINING: 100% NYLON
DOWN: 85% DOWN 15% FEATHER EXCLUSIVE OF ORNAMENTATION
RN92740
� Dimensional Stability
� Colorfastness � Strength � Durability
� Know which features are important � in your product category
�at your price point � to your customers
� Know how to measure performance
� Know how you compare with competitors
� Water resistance
� Absorbency � Drying time � Moisture transport
� AATCC TM22: Water RepellencyAATCC TM22: Water RepellencyAATCC TM22: Water RepellencyAATCC TM22: Water Repellency----Spray TestSpray TestSpray TestSpray Test Water is sprayed against the taut surface of a test specimen under controlled conditions. The specimen is evaluated by comparing the wetted pattern with pictures on a standard chart. This method is especially suitable for measuring the water-repellent efficacy of finishes applied to fabrics
� AATCC TM35: Water Resistance: Rain TestAATCC TM35: Water Resistance: Rain TestAATCC TM35: Water Resistance: Rain TestAATCC TM35: Water Resistance: Rain Test A test specimen, backed by a weighed blotter, is sprayed with water for five minutes under controlled conditions. The blotter is reweighed to determine the amount of water passing through the specimen. Tests at different intensities give a complete picture of the penetration resistance of a single fabric or combination of fabrics.
� AATCC TM42: Water Resistance: Impact Penetration TestAATCC TM42: Water Resistance: Impact Penetration TestAATCC TM42: Water Resistance: Impact Penetration TestAATCC TM42: Water Resistance: Impact Penetration Test Measures the resistance of fabrics to the penetration of water by impact, and thus can be used to predict the probable resistance of fabrics to rain penetration resistance of garment fabric.
� AATCC TM70: Water RepellencyAATCC TM70: Water RepellencyAATCC TM70: Water RepellencyAATCC TM70: Water Repellency----Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption TestTumble Jar Dynamic Absorption TestTumble Jar Dynamic Absorption TestTumble Jar Dynamic Absorption Test Subjects specimens to dynamic conditions similar to those encountered during actual use. Not intended for determining probable rain penetration resistance of fabrics, since it measures absorption of water into, but not through, the fabric. Results depend primarily on the resistance to wetting or water repellency of the fibers and yarns in the fabric, and not upon the construction of the fabric.
� AATCC TM127: Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure TestAATCC TM127: Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure TestAATCC TM127: Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure TestAATCC TM127: Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure Test Measures the resistance of a fabric to the penetration of water under hydrostatic pressure.
Rain Test
Hydrostatic Pressure
Imp
act
Pen
etr
ati
on
Dynamic Absorption
Spray Test
� AATCC TM 79: Absorbency of Textiles AATCC TM 79: Absorbency of Textiles AATCC TM 79: Absorbency of Textiles AATCC TM 79: Absorbency of Textiles The completeness and uniformity of textile processing as well as the suitability of a fabric for a particular use is dependent upon its ability and propensity to take up water. The test is based on the amount of time it takes for a drop of water to disappear from the surface of a specimen (by being absorbed into the material).
� MM TSMM TSMM TSMM TS----01: Quick Water Absorbency01: Quick Water Absorbency01: Quick Water Absorbency01: Quick Water Absorbency Designed to measure the water absorbency of textiles by measuring the time it takes for a drop of water placed on the fabric surface to be completely absorbed into the fabric. May be used to indicate comfort during wear, but most useful in measuring the affects of moisture control treatments used on textiles.
� MM TSMM TSMM TSMM TS----04: Absorbent Capacity 04: Absorbent Capacity 04: Absorbent Capacity 04: Absorbent Capacity –––– Absorbency Testing System (ATS)Absorbency Testing System (ATS)Absorbency Testing System (ATS)Absorbency Testing System (ATS) Measures water absorbency, rate, and direction with an infrared sensor to determine the maximum absorbent capacity of a fabric.
AATCC/ASTM Moisture Management Technical Supplement AATCC/ASTM Moisture Management Technical Supplement AATCC/ASTM Moisture Management Technical Supplement AATCC/ASTM Moisture Management Technical Supplement (MM TS) procedures (are not standard test methods. They have (MM TS) procedures (are not standard test methods. They have (MM TS) procedures (are not standard test methods. They have (MM TS) procedures (are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and stated in the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and stated in the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and stated in the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Some of the Technology Committees or ASTM International. Some of the Technology Committees or ASTM International. Some of the Technology Committees or ASTM International. Some of the techniques may be considered for development as new techniques may be considered for development as new techniques may be considered for development as new techniques may be considered for development as new standards or incorporated into existing standards in the future.standards or incorporated into existing standards in the future.standards or incorporated into existing standards in the future.standards or incorporated into existing standards in the future.
� MM TSMM TSMM TSMM TS----05: Gravimetric Drying Test05: Gravimetric Drying Test05: Gravimetric Drying Test05: Gravimetric Drying Test Determines the time for a fabric to dry when wet with a specified amount of water. Indicates drying time during wear or hang drying, but results may not be applicable in different temperatures and humidities.
� MM TSMM TSMM TSMM TS----07: Drying Time 07: Drying Time 07: Drying Time 07: Drying Time Determines drying time by wetting fabric and recording weight at set intervals until dry.
� MM TSMM TSMM TSMM TS----08: Drying Time of Wet 08: Drying Time of Wet 08: Drying Time of Wet 08: Drying Time of Wet
Textile FabricsTextile FabricsTextile FabricsTextile Fabrics A test specimen saturated in distilled water is placed
inside a controlled atmosphere. Periodic weighings
determine the rate of water loss. Garment construction
is not considered.
� AATCC TM 195: Liquid Moisture Management Properties of AATCC TM 195: Liquid Moisture Management Properties of AATCC TM 195: Liquid Moisture Management Properties of AATCC TM 195: Liquid Moisture Management Properties of
Textile Fabrics Textile Fabrics Textile Fabrics Textile Fabrics The test method produces objective measurements of liquid moisture management properties of knitted, woven and nonwoven textile fabrics. Results are based on water resistance, water repellency, and water absorption characteristics of the fabric structure, including the fabric’s geometric and internal structure and the wicking characteristics of its fibers and yarns.
� MM TSMM TSMM TSMM TS----03: Horizontal Wicking03: Horizontal Wicking03: Horizontal Wicking03: Horizontal Wicking Determines the horizontal spread or area of wicking of 0.5 mL of
deionized water.
� MM TSMM TSMM TSMM TS----06: Vertical Wicking06: Vertical Wicking06: Vertical Wicking06: Vertical Wicking Measures the time for water to wick up six inches from a cut edge or the
distance wicked vertically in one hour.
� Air permeability
� Vapor transport
� UPF
� Colorfastness to light � Weather resistance
�ASTM D6544 (preparation) �AATCC TM183 (testing) �ASTM D6603 (labeling) UPF UPF UPF UPF
RangeRangeRangeRange Protection Protection Protection Protection CategoryCategoryCategoryCategory
E ffective UV Effective UV Effective UV Effective UV TransmissionTransmissionTransmissionTransmission
UPF RatingUPF RatingUPF RatingUPF Rating
15-24 Good 6.7% - 4.2% 15, 20
25-39 Very Good 4.1% - 2.6% 25, 30, 35
40-50, 50+
Excellent ≤2.5% 40, 45, 50,
50+
� AATCC TM 16: Colorfastness to LightAATCC TM 16: Colorfastness to LightAATCC TM 16: Colorfastness to LightAATCC TM 16: Colorfastness to Light Accelerated exposure for color change evaluation only.
� AATCC TM 111: Weather Resistance of Textiles: ExposureAATCC TM 111: Weather Resistance of Textiles: ExposureAATCC TM 111: Weather Resistance of Textiles: ExposureAATCC TM 111: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Exposure to Daylight and Weatherto Daylight and Weatherto Daylight and Weatherto Daylight and Weather
Test specimens and standard are exposed simultaneously to natural weathering. End point is a specified degree of degradation (color change, strength loss, etc.) or a specific amount of radiant energy. Exposures by calendar days, months, or years can result in more variation.
� AATCC TM 169: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Xenon Lamp ExposureAATCC TM 169: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Xenon Lamp ExposureAATCC TM 169: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Xenon Lamp ExposureAATCC TM 169: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Xenon Lamp Exposure Sample and standard are exposed to a xenon lamp source. Strength and/or color is compared.
� AATCC TM186: Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture ExposureAATCC TM186: Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture ExposureAATCC TM186: Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture ExposureAATCC TM186: Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture Exposure Specimens are exposed to a fluorescent UV light source and periodic wetting. Resistance to degradation is rated in percent loss in strength, or percent residual strength (breaking or bursting) and/or color change.
� AATCC TM 192: Weather Resistance of Textiles: SunshineAATCC TM 192: Weather Resistance of Textiles: SunshineAATCC TM 192: Weather Resistance of Textiles: SunshineAATCC TM 192: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Sunshine----Arc Lamp Arc Lamp Arc Lamp Arc Lamp Exposure with and without WettingExposure with and without WettingExposure with and without WettingExposure with and without Wetting
Test specimens and standard are exposed under specified conditions of relative humidity or wetting. Weather resistance is evaluated by comparison to unexposed original material.
� Soil prevention
� Soil removal
� Oily
� Protein � Mineral
� AATCC TM118: Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance TestAATCC TM118: Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance TestAATCC TM118: Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance TestAATCC TM118: Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test Evaluates resistance to wetting by a selected series of liquid hydrocarbons of different surface tensions. Drops are placed on the fabric surface and observed for wetting, wicking, and contact angle. The oil repellency grade is the highest numbered test liquid which does not wet the fabric surface.
� AATCC TM130: Soil Release: Oily Stain Release MethodAATCC TM130: Soil Release: Oily Stain Release MethodAATCC TM130: Soil Release: Oily Stain Release MethodAATCC TM130: Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method
Measures ability of fabrics to release oily stains during home laundering. Primarily to evaluate the likely performance of soil release finishes in actual use.
� AATCC TM193: Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol AATCC TM193: Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol AATCC TM193: Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol AATCC TM193: Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol
Solution Resistance TestSolution Resistance TestSolution Resistance TestSolution Resistance Test Determines the efficacy of a protective finish for imparting a low energy surface on all types of fabrics by evaluating resistance to wetting by a series of water/alcohol solutions of different surface tensions. Drops are placed on the fabric surface and observed for wetting, wicking, and contact angle.
� Appearance retention
� Strength retention
� Abradant
� Abrasion direction
� ASTM D3884: Test Method for Abrasion ASTM D3884: Test Method for Abrasion ASTM D3884: Test Method for Abrasion ASTM D3884: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Rotary Platform, Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Rotary Platform, Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Rotary Platform, Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Rotary Platform, DoubleDoubleDoubleDouble----Head Method)Head Method)Head Method)Head Method)
Abradant wheels trace a circular pattern on the fabric specimen.
� ASTM D4157: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance ASTM D4157: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance ASTM D4157: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance ASTM D4157: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)of Textile Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)of Textile Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)of Textile Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)
Abrasion resistance of woven textile fabrics using the oscillatory cylinder tester. Common method for evaluating for upholstery.
� ASTM D3886: Test Method for Abrasion ASTM D3886: Test Method for Abrasion ASTM D3886: Test Method for Abrasion ASTM D3886: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Apparatus)Apparatus)Apparatus)Apparatus)
Determines the resistance to abrasion of woven and knitted textile fabrics, both conditioned and wet, using the inflated diaphragm tester. Result is the number of cycles until the abrasive panel breaks through the fabric.
� ASTM D4158: Guide for Abrasion Resistance ASTM D4158: Guide for Abrasion Resistance ASTM D4158: Guide for Abrasion Resistance ASTM D4158: Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Uniform Abrasion) of Textile Fabrics (Uniform Abrasion) of Textile Fabrics (Uniform Abrasion) of Textile Fabrics (Uniform Abrasion)
Every point in the surface of the specimen is equally and uniformly abraded in all horizontal directions. Evaluation options are fabric rupture, mass loss, thickness loss, and breaking strength loss.
� AATCC TM93: Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics: AATCC TM93: Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics: AATCC TM93: Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics: AATCC TM93: Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics: AccelerotorAccelerotorAccelerotorAccelerotor MethodMethodMethodMethod
Specimen is driven along a zigzag course in a generally circular orbit within a cylindrical chamber, impinging on walls and abradant liner while being subjected to rapid, high velocity impacts. Evaluation is made on the basis of weight loss or grab strength loss of the specimen when broken at an abraded fold line.
� ASTM D4966: Test Method for Abrasion ASTM D4966: Test Method for Abrasion ASTM D4966: Test Method for Abrasion ASTM D4966: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Martindale Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Martindale Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Martindale Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Martindale Abrasion Tester Method)Abrasion Tester Method)Abrasion Tester Method)Abrasion Tester Method)
The Martindale abrasion tester moves specimens in a Lissajous pattern against an abradant wool fabric. May not be suitable for fabrics with a pile depth greater than 2 mm.
� ASTM F1868 : Standard Test Method for Thermal and Evaporative ASTM F1868 : Standard Test Method for Thermal and Evaporative ASTM F1868 : Standard Test Method for Thermal and Evaporative ASTM F1868 : Standard Test Method for Thermal and Evaporative Resistance of Clothing Materials Using a Sweating Hot PlateResistance of Clothing Materials Using a Sweating Hot PlateResistance of Clothing Materials Using a Sweating Hot PlateResistance of Clothing Materials Using a Sweating Hot Plate
Thermal resistance and the evaporative resistance, under steady-state conditions, of fabrics, films, coatings, foams, and leathers, including multi-layer assemblies, for use in clothing systems.
� ASTM D1518: Test Method for Thermal Transmittance of Textile ASTM D1518: Test Method for Thermal Transmittance of Textile ASTM D1518: Test Method for Thermal Transmittance of Textile ASTM D1518: Test Method for Thermal Transmittance of Textile MaterialsMaterialsMaterialsMaterials
Measures the time rate of heat transfer from a warm, dry, constant-temperature, horizontal flat-plate up through a layer of the test material to a relatively calm, cool atmosphere.
� ASTM F1291: Test Method for Measuring the Thermal Insulation of ASTM F1291: Test Method for Measuring the Thermal Insulation of ASTM F1291: Test Method for Measuring the Thermal Insulation of ASTM F1291: Test Method for Measuring the Thermal Insulation of Clothing Using a Heated ManikinClothing Using a Heated ManikinClothing Using a Heated ManikinClothing Using a Heated Manikin
Insulation value of clothing ensembles. The method describes the measurement of the resistance to dry heat transfer from a heated manikin to a relatively calm, cool environment. This is a static test that provides a baseline clothing measurement on a standing manikin. The effects of body position and movement are not addressed.
� ASTM F2370: Test Method for Measuring the Evaporative Resistance of ASTM F2370: Test Method for Measuring the Evaporative Resistance of ASTM F2370: Test Method for Measuring the Evaporative Resistance of ASTM F2370: Test Method for Measuring the Evaporative Resistance of Clothing Using a Sweating ManikinClothing Using a Sweating ManikinClothing Using a Sweating ManikinClothing Using a Sweating Manikin
Determination of the evaporative resistance of clothing ensembles. This static test measures the resistance to evaporative heat transfer from a heated sweating thermal manikin to a relatively calm environment.
� ASTM F1720: Standard Test Method for Measuring Thermal Insulation of ASTM F1720: Standard Test Method for Measuring Thermal Insulation of ASTM F1720: Standard Test Method for Measuring Thermal Insulation of ASTM F1720: Standard Test Method for Measuring Thermal Insulation of Sleeping Bags Using a Heated ManikinSleeping Bags Using a Heated ManikinSleeping Bags Using a Heated ManikinSleeping Bags Using a Heated Manikin
This test method covers determination of the insulation value of a sleeping bag or sleeping bag system. It measures the resistance to dry heat transfer from a constant skin temperature manikin to a relatively cold environment. This is a static test that generates reproducible results, but the manikin cannot simulate real life sleeping conditions relating to some human and environmental factors
� Odor control
� Rot resistance
� Qualitative
� Quantitative
� AATCC TM30: Antifungal Activity, Assessment on Textile AATCC TM30: Antifungal Activity, Assessment on Textile AATCC TM30: Antifungal Activity, Assessment on Textile AATCC TM30: Antifungal Activity, Assessment on Textile Materials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of TextilesMaterials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of TextilesMaterials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of TextilesMaterials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of Textiles
The dual-purpose test method determines the susceptibility of textile materials to mildew and rot AND evaluates the efficacy of fungicides on textile materials.
� AATCC TM100: Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials: AATCC TM100: Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials: AATCC TM100: Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials: AATCC TM100: Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials:
Assessment ofAssessment ofAssessment ofAssessment of One of the most commonly used and well-recognized tests for antimicrobial-treated textiles, this method provides quantitative evaluation of the degree of antibacterial activity. Bacteria on treated and untreated specimens are counted after innoculation and incubation. Percent reduction by the treated specimen is calculated.
� AATCC TM147: Antibacterial Activity of Fabrics, Assessment of AATCC TM147: Antibacterial Activity of Fabrics, Assessment of AATCC TM147: Antibacterial Activity of Fabrics, Assessment of AATCC TM147: Antibacterial Activity of Fabrics, Assessment of
Textile Materials: Parallel Streak MethodTextile Materials: Parallel Streak MethodTextile Materials: Parallel Streak MethodTextile Materials: Parallel Streak Method This test detects bacteriostatic activity on textile materials. The Parallel Streak Method provides quick and easy qualitative determination of antibacterial activity of diffusable antimicrobial agents on treated textile materials. This method provides evidence of antibacterial activity against both Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria.
“Testing Antimicrobial Performance”
(AATCC Review, Sept/Oct 2010)
