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NOVEMBER 2014
WINNER BEST AIRLINE AFRICA
YOUR FREE COPY
THE CHEAP AND CHIC WAY!
travel talk
48 Sawubona November 2014
Built in 1929, the Piscine’s Olympic-sized swimming pool was the place to be seen until the Eighties. The who’s
who of the city sat dipping their feet and cooling off while watching fashion shows and theatrical performances. The poolside was also used for film shoots and it was here that automobile engineer-turned-fashion designer Louis Réard unveiled the soon-to-be-famous bikini in 1946. It’s also after this Parisian icon that the hero of Yann Martel’s 2001 novel, Life of Pi, was named.
Abandoned in 1989, this symbol of glamour became dilapidated and was turned
into a giant canvas for graffiti artists. It was even used as the venue for a rave attended by 5 000 people.
Despite the restoration, much of the original design, by Lucien Pollet – whose vision was to create an ocean liner-like pool with portholes, deco stained glass and surrounding three-level cabins – has been retained. Going from the club to the Clarins Spa, restaurant and bar in a robe, cocktail in hand, will transport you back to a bygone, glamorous era. 13 rue Nungesser et Coli, 16th Arrondissement, Paris www.mltr.fr/en – Sam Growdon
On at the Stevenson Gallery in Woodstock, Cape Town, this November, Kings County is a collaborative project between African artists Wangechi Mutu, Njideka Akunyili Crosby, Meleko Mokgosi and Paul Mpagi Sepuya, all of whom were based in the Brooklyn borough of New York when the show was being put together. The term “Kings County” may be unfamiliar to non-New Yorkers, but its colonial associations (from the Dutch settlements in the 17th century) suggest an imaginary place – thus the creation of this show in “Brooklyn”, Africa. Historian and novelist Teju Cole is also writing an original piece which will accompany the show.
www.stevenson.info – Daniel Scheffler
Now a MGallery hotel, Paris’s 124-room Piscine Molitor has been restored to much of its original splendour
If there’s one beauty item I can’t do without, it’s mascara – and this month I’m besotted with not one, but two great new launches. Maybelline Big Eyes has a brush on either end – one to lift and widen the upper lashes, and another to magnify
the lower ones (no clumps!). The curved, “swan-neck” stem of Lancôme Grandiose allows it to easily access lashes’ curves for the perfect lash fringe.
ON THE GO? Dashing between meetings can cause havoc with your diet. Keep a stash of healthy options on hand to fill the gap, like Food Lover’s Pitted Dates and McNab’s SuperCharge Hi Energy Bar.
REVIVING A PARIS ICON
LASH ADDICTION
Africa in Brooklyn
travel talk
54 Sawubona November 2014
1. LONDON: Yearning for solid, but sumptuous British fare? The Typing Room in the Town Hall Hotel offers a new seven-course tasting menu which includes lamb with burnt aubergines and beef tongue with apricots and dripping, as well as unusual and exquisite wines.
www.typingroom.com
2. VENICE BEACH, CALIFORNIA: Moon Juice, the quintessential Californian super-juice brand, is expanding its offering to include a wellness pantry of items which can be delivered. The wide range encompasses super-food ingredients that can be used to create unique dishes. www.moonjuiceshop.com
3. PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA: Since 1929, Raffles Le Royal has been the spot in the Cambodian capital to imbibe both a drink and the city’s enchantment. Inspired by former client Jackie Kennedy Onassis, the Elephant Bar’s signature
drink, Femme Fatale, makes total sense. www.raffles.com/phnom-penh
4. RAJASTHAN: For the trip of a lifetime, trekking around the temples and forts of this Indian state yield many awe-inspiring moments. Totally off the beaten track, Shahpura Bagh was historically the summer residence of the area’s rulers and is still an edifice of splendour.
www.shahpurabagh.com
5. HONG KONG: Spanish cuisine never looked or tasted this good. Vasco, in the new PMQ design centre on Hong Kong Island, is led by chef Paolo Casagrande, from the two-Michelin-starred Lasarte Restaurant in Barcelona. His team were trained by legendary Spanish chef, Martin Berasategui. www.vasco.com.hk
6. YANGON, MYANMAR: Looking for some revitalisation after a flight? The Strand in Myanmar’s buzzing capital now offers spa treatments specialising in jet-lag relief. www.hotelthestrand.com/spa.html
7. SHANGHAI: The fastest-growing city in the world has seemingly endless accommodation options, but resting your head is really easy at The Puli. Brand-new is its free-flowing champagne brunch – a great boost to an exotic, dynamic day. www.thepuli.com
GLOBAL EYE!"#$%&'()#*+,(-(.
THINGS TO DO, BUY, SEE AND TRY
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TRAINS BRING THE WONDER AND ENJOYMENT BACK TO TRAVEL: THEY’RE A WAY TO ENJOY THE JOURNEY AS MUCH AS THE DESTINATION
journeyG
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A beautifully rebuilt classic train that forms part of the
luxurious and privately owned Rovos Rail fleet.
94 Sawubona November 2014
Richard Holmes steps aboard the Proudly South African Rovos Rail for a cross-country journey
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A deluxe suite on board Rovos Rail.
Soak up the wide-open spaces of the Karoo.
journey
November 2014 Sawubona 95
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PRETORIA-CAPE TOWN: From the Highveld to the Atlantic across the Great Karoo, this 51-hour journey is the quintessential rail adventure in SA.PRETORIA-VICTORIA FALLS: A three-night adventure that
wends north-west from SA’s capital city through Botswana and Zimbabwe to the majestic Victoria Falls. A highlight on the third day is a game drive in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe.PRETORIA-DURBAN: A three-
day itinerary run in the summer months that includes a game drive, a battlefields tour and a visit to the world-famous Ardmore Ceramics Gallery before arriving in Durban.GOLF SAFARIS: Rovos offers
two nine-day, golf-focused journeys that take in the finest courses on the Highveld, Lowveld and coastal regions of the country. Courses include the likes of Leopard Creek, Oubaai, Fancourt and Durban Country Club.
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Engine driver Jonas Msiza at the controls of the steam engine King Zog.
Rovos is one of the most luxurious trains
in the world.
journey
96 Sawubona November 2014
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One of the most famous train journeys in the world is also one of the slowest. Travelling from grand Russia to fast-changing China across the Silk Road, life meanders languidly by, writes Daniel Scheffler
Turpan, Kashgar.
The Golden Eagle restaurant car.
The Golden Eagle bar car.
journey
98 Sawubona November 2014
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Life on board is simple. Wi-Fi and connectivity are abolish ed and ch ess, bridge and inexhaustible conversation soar.
Shangri La.
The Terracotta Army of Xian.
journey
100 Sawubona November 2014
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“Modernisation was the death of those thundering giants that were such a major part of my childhood. Today the thrill of seeing steam locos working brings back all those memories.” – Dave Levene, Friends of Atlantic Rail (FoAR)
Katie nearing Glencairn.
Kalk Bay beach from the train.
journey
102 Sawubona November 2014
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	(#,2/C#H(A8(3/#/.%&312./%/'2&#>.2;#;%&%:(;(&/#'>#"28E.(#&2/#/,%/#]/C
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`'3/2.'+#)'//)(#*';2&E3#J2?&#*/%/'2&#'3#/,(#(&<#2>#/,(#)'&(C#r28#,%5(#%#+281)(#2>#,28.3#/2#(01)2.(#/,(#/2?&E3#,(.'/%:(#%.+,'/(+/8.(#%&<#,%5(#%#9'/(#/2#(%/#9(>2.(#/,(#.(/8.&#/.'1#a#@#.(+2;;(&<#]3,#%&<#+,'13#2&#/,(#?,%.>C
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WHEN AND HOWJ.'13#/2#*';2&E3#J2?&#.8&#/?2#*8&<%"3#%#;2&/,#%&<#(%.)"#922B'&:#'3#(33(&/'%)C#H%/(3#%.(#H6KS#>2.#%<8)/3#%&<#H7KS#>2.#+,')<.(&#%:(<#/,.((#/2#76C#
J,(#D'&()%&<3#/.'1#/%B(3#1)%+(#(5(."#>(?#;2&/,3#%&<#+23/3#HdKS#>2.#%<8)/3#%&<#HbKS#>2.#+,')<.(&#%:(<#/,.((#/2#76C#J,'3#'&+)8<(3#)8&+,#%/#/,(#(3/%/(#2>#"28.#+,2'+(4#%#?'&(G/%3/'&:#%&<#%#5'3'/#/2#('/,(.#/,(#*1'(.#H%1/2.#O(&/.(#2.#/,(#9':#+%/3#%/#L.(<(&,(';C# #'&>2t%/)%&/'+.%')C+2C^%#
FRIENDS OF ATLANTIC RAIL (FoAR) N2WH#+()(9.%/(<#/,('.#>28./,#9'./,<%"#'&#*(1/(;9(.#/,'3#"(%.C#!.(//#%&<#>())2?#3/(%;#(&/,83'%3/3#,()1(<#28/#2&#/,(#&2?#<(>8&+/#*1'(.#/.%'&#.8&#%&<#(5(&/8%))"#9(:%&#/,(#)2&:#1.2+(33#2>#+23;(/'+%))"#.(3/2.'&:#V(&&"#?'/,#W/)%&/'+#H%')C#J,(#:.281#2>#52)8&/((.3#:.(?#3/(%<')"n#'S7S#/,("#?(.(#%11.2%+,(<#/2#>2.;%)'3(#%e+'%)#+)894#N2WHC#W.28&<#bS#%+/'5(#;(;9(.3#18/#'&#)2&:#,28.3#12)'3,'&:#9.%334#+)(%&'&:#+2%+,(3#%&<#+2%)'&:#81#/2#;%B(#/,(#3/(%;#/.%'&#/.'13#%#I2"#>2.#%))C#
ENGINE INFORMATION_%/'(#'3#%#O)%33#7R$W#dGRG6#3/(%;#(&:'&(4#.(>8.9'3,(<#9"#W/)%&/'+#H%')#%&<#N2WH#%&<#.(18/(<#/2#9(#/,(#9'::(3/#3/(%;#(&:'&(##.8&&'&:#'&#*WC#*,(E3#&%;(<#%>/(.#92/,#W/)%&/'+#H%')#$'.(+/2.#@%&#P.(/2.'83E3#:.%&<<%8:,/(.#%&<#/,(#<%8:,/(.#2>#W/)%&/'+#H%')#$'.(+/2.4#*%.%,GV%&(#M'()3(&C
V(&&"#'3#%#O)%33#6d#6GcGd#3/(%;#(&:'&(#&%;(<#%>/(.#V(&&"#P.(/2.'834#/,(#)%/(#?'>(#2>#@%&#P.(/2.'83C# #???C%/)%&/'+.%')C+2C^%#
N ear Glencairn I’m tempted to lean out and dip my
fingers in th e water, so close are we to th e ocean.
An al fresco lunch at Vredenheim Wine Estate.
Fire and polished brass in the engine cab.
Brett “Vuurhoutjie” Radloff and Jeremy Hutton of FoAR.
EVEL
YN LY
LE
