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WILDWINGS INDONESIA TOUR

KOMODO DRAGONS AND MAMMALS 24th September – 7th October 2016

LEADER – RICHARD WEBB

WildWings Davis House

Lodge Causeway Bristol BS16 3JB

+44 01179 658333 www.wildwings.co.uk

Komodo Dragon (Sheelagh Halsey)

INTRODUCTION This was WildWings’ first mammal trip to South-East Asia visiting Kalimantan, Sumatra, Java, Flores and Komodo for its famous dragons. Previous Wildwings’ mammal tours have largely been focused on open habitats and this was the first focussing primarily on forests habitats and the additional challenges that this creates. Although our recces were carried out in June after discussions with local guides we decided to run the tour towards the end of the dry season in late September when we hoped that mammals would be even more concentrated around available water sources particularly in Way Kambas National Park on Sumatra. Unfortunately the rains had arrived two months early meaning the complete opposite was true and making mammal watching in Way Kambas somewhat challenging, with even normally common species being surprisingly elusive. The lack of available boats for river trips at Way Kambas also hampered our search for mammals but nevertheless with some hard work and the help of visits to several bat roosts we still managed to see over 40 species of mammal and over 180 species of bird. Mammal-wise the highlights were 12 species of primate including a fabulous Western Tarsier, some impressive Bornean Orangutans and Proboscis Monkeys, several Leopard Cats, three species of cetacean including Irrawaddy Dolphin; a controversial otter and several species of bat including Lesser False-Vampires. The dragons stole the show reptile-wise although they were challenged by some impressive False Gharials.

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Bird-wise Green Junglefowl, Orange-footed Scrubfowl, some large flocks of Red-necked Phalarope, three roosting (Sunda) Banded Pittas and three very obliging Elegant Pittas; Black-naped Fruit Dove, Yellow-crested Cockatoo; ten species of kingfisher including Javan, Rufous-collared, White-rumped and Cerulean; and four species of owl including several Buffy Fish Owls and both Sunda and Moluccan Scops Owls were among the highlights. Thanks to all the participants and the local guides Hakim, Hari, Isak and Sam for helping to make the trip a success and for the photos that accompany this report. Richard Webb 9th October 2016 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------

DAILY SUMMARIES 24th September The group arrived in Dubai from various UK airports for the connecting flight to Jakarta. On arrival in Jakarta and after long waits for both the luggage and the shuttle bus we eventually arrived at the Ibis Styles Hotel where we checked in and had dinner before retiring for the night.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25th September An early start from the hotel saw us heading for the airport for our first internal flight to Pangkalan Bun on Kalimantan. Most of the group made the first shuttle bus but Richard had to follow in the minibus and was frustrated to find that the bus had dropped the rest of the group off two stops too early at terminal 1A instead of 1C as the minibus that he was in drove past them. The flight itself was relatively straight-forward and we were soon in Pangkalan Bun where after a short wait for taxis we transferred to our boat for the transfer to Rimba Ecolodge in Tanjung Puting National Park. As we left the quay we had our first experience of Edible-nest Swiftlet ‘hotels’ and quickly found our first mammals of the trip when the first of several Irrawaddy Dolphins were seen as we crossed the bay. A great start to the trip.

Irrawaddy Dolphins (Steve Rawlins) We quickly entered the river on route to Rimba where after lunch on board we were soon enjoying our first wild Bornean Orangutans, Proboscis Monkeys and Long-tailed Macaques. Just short of the lodge we stopped at our first feeding station where we were able to view good numbers of re-habituated Bornean Orangutans at close range. Continuing up river past the lodge we soon added Sundaic Silvered Langur, Plantain and Black-eared (Pygmy) Squirrel to our rapidly

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increasing mammal list along with Blue-eared and Stork-billed Kingfishers and brief views of a Black and Red Broadbill, before returning to the lodge to check-in.

Proboscis Monkeys (Steve Rawlins/Sheelagh Halsey) After dinner and some nice Speckle-headed Vine Snakes as we left the quay we went on a short night walk but apart from a few impressive tarantulas it was pretty quiet and we returned to the lodge for a relatively early night.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26th September We were up and out on the boat at 5 am for a short cruise upriver to the research station trail where we found a number of Rhinoceros and Wrinkled Hornbills and heard at least two troops of White-bearded Gibbon although the latter remained elusive. We returned to the boat for breakfast before continuing to cruise upriver. Brief views of an otter proved controversial and the identification has never been resolved although Oriental Short-clawed is the only species recorded from the area. We again saw all of the primates that we had encountered yesterday before turning into another river on route to Camp Leakey. Heading towards Camp Leakey we found a fabulous False Gharial, one of three seen during the day.

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False Gharial (Steve Rawlins) Arriving at Camp Leakey we had lunch before setting out for the Orang feeding station. A Bornean Bristlehead gave some of the group brief views on route. On arrival at the feeding station we were greeted by large numbers of re-habituated Bornean Orangutans, a solitary re-habituated White-bearded Gibbon, and two Bearded Pigs (a third was seen on the way back to the boat) taking advantage of the food spilled by the Orangs. Some of the group also had brief views of an unidentified rat.

Bearded Pig (Sheelagh Halsey/Steve Rawlins) Returning to the boat we had some nice close views of a Black-eared (Pygmy) Squirrel, some close Long-tailed Macaques and two Water Monitors.

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White-bearded Gibbon (Steve Rawlins)

Long-tailed Macaque (Steve Rawlins) A short cruise downstream took us to the start of another trail where Roger saw our only Lesser Treeshrew of the trip and three more Black-eared (Pygmy) Squirrels were seen while we waited for darkness. A short night walk sadly proved unproductive but the cruise back to the lodge produced several nice Buffy Fish Owls. We had a late dinner back at the lodge. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------

27th September Another early departure from the lodge was followed by breakfast on the boat before we set off again on the trail to the research station. A large male Bornean Orangutan brought down part of a tree as we disturbed its early morning slumber and after an initially fruitless search for gibbons which did produce a few nice birds including Japanese Sparrowhawk and a Bat Hawk mobbing a Changeable Hawk Eagle, we finally tracked down a group of at least five White-bearded Gibbons which eventually gave at least brief views to everyone. The walk back to the boat produced nice views of a pair of Green Broadbills. We returned to the lodge during the middle of the day but returned to the river mid-afternoon for a cruise downstream. The most impressive male Bornean Orangutan I have ever seen was the highlight of the cruise with two more wild individuals also being encountered. Proboscis Monkeys constantly entertained the photographers and a nice view of a Saltwater (Estuarine) Crocodile provided a nice comparison with the False Gharials of the previous day. We returned to the lodge for dinner but opted against another night walk.

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Bornean Orangutan (Sheelagh Halsey ) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------

28th September A pre-dawn departure saw us having breakfast on the boat again in order to get back to Pangkalan Bun for our early flight back to Jakarta. After transferring from the boat to the airport we thanked Hakim and his team for all their hard work during the previous three days before flying back to Jakarta. After a four-hour wait for our connecting flight in Jakarta we were on our way to Bandar Lampung on Sumatra where we were met by Hari and the team from Satwa Ecolodge for the two-hour transfer to the lodge. After dinner we were out in the field for our first night drive in Way Kambas where Pete’s thermal imaging camera soon showed its value when he picked up a shape which transformed itself into our only Western Tarsier of the trip. A superb start to our time in Way Kambas, particularly as Hari our guide, had never seen one in eight years guiding in the park. The rest of the night drive was more predictable with Lesser Mouse Deer, Sambar and a single Malay Civet the mammalian highlights and three Brown Hawk Owls and a couple of roosting Crested Firebacks the best of the birds. Unfortunately attempts to lure in a calling Oriental Bay Owl was unsuccessful.

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Western Tarsier (Steve Rawlins)

Brown Hawk Owl (Peter Wheeler)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 29th September The day started badly with Hari being taken ill but we still headed out on the main jeep track in Way Kambas prior to dawn. It was quickly evident that the early arrival of the rains had, as Hari had reported, resulted in there being a lot of standing water around, and as a result even some of the commoner species such as Wild Boar were in short supply with only one being seen. A couple of Red Muntjacs were new to the mammal list and we had nice views of Crested Fireback on the track. On arrival at Way Kanan we found what we now believe to be Greater Short-nosed Fruit Bats roosting in the entry gate and in one of the nearby buildings. At least two troops of Siamang were vocalising on our return drive but only Sheelagh managed to get a brief view of one individual. We returned to the lodge for breakfast and a rest but Chris, Roger and Sheelagh did go for a wander along the perimeter road where they found Three-striped Ground Squirrel and the only Southern Pig-tailed Macaque of the trip, only to get soaked in the process. Lunch at the lodge produced a single Plantain Squirrel. With Hari having recovered from his morning ailments we were back out on the road late afternoon having brief views of three Siamangs and seeing a single Sundaic Silvered Langur and more Crested Firebacks on route to Way Kanan. We had an al fresco dinner at Way Kanan before spotlighting our way back up the jeep track where our first Leopard Cat showed briefly to most of the group and a Malayan Porcupine crossed the track in front of the vehicle in a hurry. A distant calling Sunda Scops Owl was called in by Hari and quickly appeared above our heads. Back at the gate we decided to continue spotlighting along the perimeter road and were quickly rewarded with a Common Palm Civet, followed shortly afterwards by a close but surprisingly speedy Sunda Slow Loris and a second rather more sedate individual. We also found our first Trefoil Horseshoe Bat hanging from a branch and Hari found us a Sunda Frogmouth while we watched the second loris. With a storm approaching we put the covers back on the vehicle just in time to avoid a drenching which brought the night drive to an early end. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------

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30th September After heavy overnight rain we were back out pre-dawn and soon had reasonable albeit brief views of the same group of Siamangs as the night before. A Rufous-collared Kingfisher showed well for some of the group and we encountered four species of squirrel including our first Prevost’s, and a nice group of, often difficult, Mitred Langurs along the track. On arrival at Way Kanan we found another roost of Greater Short-nosed Fruit Bats and Hari showed us roosts of some impressive Lesser False-Vampires in two of the out-buildings. The drive back to the lodge produced brief views of a pair of Red-naped Trogon for some of the group and checks of some of the culverts under the jeep track produced another Lesser False-Vampire, and single Lesser Sheath-tailed and Malayan Slit-faced Bats.

Small-disc Roundleaf Bat (Peter Wheeler)

Malayan Slit-faced Bat

(Peter Wheeler)

Lesser Sheath-tailed Bat

(Peter Wheeler) After lunch back at the lodge we were back out by mid-afternoon and spent more time checking more culverts finding at least two groups of Small-disc Roundleaf Bats and some more horseshoe bats that still require identification at the time of writing. We again had an al fresco dinner at Way Kanan before starting to spotlight our way back to the lodge. Malaysian Tree Rat was a further addition to the species list but torrential rain brought the spotlighting to a very early end. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------

1st October After the early finish the night before and the heavy overnight rain we were out at 4 am on the main jeep track with high expectations for a good pre-dawn spotlighting session but mammal-wise it was extremely quiet. However Pete’s thermal-imaging camera produced the goods again in the form of a smart roosting (Sunda) Banded Pitta, the first of the trip. Red Muntjac numbers were up on the previous day and we saw Three-striped Ground Squirrel and an unexpected Shrew-faced Ground Squirrel after dawn as we approached Way Kanan where a single Sundaic Silvered Langur showed distantly. The journey back to the lodge was relatively quiet until we heard a group of Agile Gibbon close to the track. Agile Gibbons are rarely seen at Way Kambas so went off track in pursuit of them. One of two of the group did manage brief views of one but most of us were unsuccessful.

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Unfortunately we had been unable to do any boat trips at Way Kambas due to the main boat being unavailable but we finally managed to arrange a trip in two boats for the afternoon. We arrived at the river at 4 pm with two Wild Boars seen on route, and quickly boarded the two boats. Unfortunately our luck was still out the outboard motor of one of the boats failing before we even left the quay! After half an hour failing to get it started again we gave up and had an early packed dinner before starting spotlighting. It proved to be the best night of the trip. Sambar numbers were up to three and we had at least two calling Large Frogmouths although we were unable to call them in. Back at the gate we headed out on the perimeter road and quickly found a Common Palm Civet where we had seen one two nights earlier. Eyeshine from the back of a small building was probably a Leopard Cat as Hari also picked up the same eyeshine from what he thought was a Leopard Cat from the same spot on the way back but a definite Leopard Cat was seen by most of the group a few minutes later, and a third was seen by everything further along the road. Two more (Sunda) Banded Pittas were found roosting and we also found two Trefoil Horseshoe Bats and what appeared to be a Greater Woolly Horseshoe Bat with the birds being rounded off by a nice Large-tailed Nightjar. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

2nd October A mammal-less day started with an early departure from Satwa for Bandar Lampung. Being a Sunday the roads were clear and we reached the airport well ahead of the schedule. After bidding farewell to the drivers one of the group found to his horror that he had left his backpack in one of the cars. Attempts to phone them were unsuccessful but fortunately they found the backpack minutes later and returned it to the airport much to his relief. The flight to Jakarta was uneventful, which was more than could be said about the drive to Gunung Gede. Java is well-known for its traffic problems but we were not prepared for the four and a half hour delay which resulted from a road closure. We did try to bypass the closure but ground to a halt when getting back to the main route at which point we were stuck for four and a half hours, although fortunately there was access to a toilet and a garage for supplies. Eventually Roger suggested having an early dinner so we changed direction and joined the Jakarta-bound traffic stopping for dinner at a Pizza Hut a few minutes along the road. Needless to say as soon as we ordered our meals the road re-opened in the opposite direction so after enjoying a quick dinner we were back on the road eventually arriving at our hotel which we sadly quickly realised had seen better days. Keen to try to salvage something from the day we joined our guides at Gunung Gede to look for stink- and ferret-badgers but despite assurances that they had been pre-baiting for us they only laid the bait on our arrival and this coupled with the large numbers of people around the start of the main trail meant we had no success either on the trail or in the nearby campgrounds and after around 90 minutes we headed back to the hotel after a day to put down to experience.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3rd October We were back out at the Mandalawi Campground to look for badgers prior to dawn but were again unsuccessful although a pre-breakfast walk around the edge of the golf course did produce some distant Javan Lutung (Ebony Langurs) with closer views at the start of the main trail, Javan Hawk Eagle and a nice albeit brief Javan Kingfisher spotted flying in by Sheelagh. We returned to the hotel for breakfast and then headed back out to Cibodas Botanical Gardens where we saw more Javan Lutungs before heading on to the main trail at Gunung Gede. The trail produced some more lutungs, three individual Horsfield’s Treeshrews and we also heard some distant Silvery (Javan) Gibbons but the latter, and the hoped for Grizzled Leaf-Monkeys (Javan Suriri) proved elusive. At lunchtime we decided against a further spotlighting session that evening and headed for a nearby restaurant for lunch before heading back to Jakarta and the very pleasant FM7 Hotel, a distinct improvement on the night before. Although still slow the drive was fortunately much quicker than the drive in the opposite direction the day before.

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4th October An even earlier start this morning in order to make our 5.40 am flight to Bali where Chris, Roger and Sheila saw a Brown Booby during our transit stop while waiting for the onward flight to Labuan Bajo on Flores. Once on Flores we were met at the airport by our guide Sam and quickly transferred to the nearby Komodo Ecolodge for lunch. After lunch we were back on the road visiting nearby woodland, flooded fields and fish ponds where we saw a range of good birds. Our first attempts to call in Elegant Pittas were unsuccessful but at a later stop we had great views of a bird calling 10 feet or so off the ground with a second bird alongside it. At dusk the same woodland produced a Moluccan Scops Owl within a minute and at our next stop an obliging pair of Mees’ Nightjars was seen equally quickly. In between the visits to the woodlands, the flooded fields produced a number of good birds including Javan Pond Heron, Red-necked Stint, Blue-tailed Bee-eaters and Sacred Kingfisher along with plenty of attractive domestic Bali Cattle a descendant of the Banteng, while the fish ponds produced Cerulean and Stork-billed Kingfisher and White-headed Stilts. We returned to the lodge very satisfied with our first excursion on Flores. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------

5th October Today was our visit to Komodo and we were on the quay at 5 am to board our boat. The outbound trip was successful with several pods of Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphins in the first part of the trip and what were probably two Spinner Dolphins close inshore, followed shortly afterwards by a larger pod of dolphins that may have been Melon-headed Whales. Roger and Richard also saw an unidentified turtle off the front of the boat. Seabirds were in relatively short supply but we did see Lesser Frigatebirds and lots of Swift Tern plus a handful of Red-necked Phalaropes. As we approached Komodo we saw several Wild Boars along the shoreline and Richard and Steve saw a single Javan Rusa. We also had our first Pacific Reef Herons and two Great-billed Herons. Landing on Komodo we were greeted by an array of attractive fish in the clear waters alongside the quay but quickly pressed on and were soon watching our first Komodo Dragon only to be called back for a briefing. After the briefing we walked the medium trail seeing three more dragons, large numbers of Javan Rusa, three Wild Boars and some good birds including the endemic Yellow-crested Cockatoo, the attractive Green Junglefowl and Orange-footed Scrubfowl, the first megapodes for several of the group.

Komodo Dragons (Richard Webb/Steve Rawlins) Returning to the beach we took another trail towards the guesthouse and found four more dragons sheltering in the shade of some buildings and back near the start of the trail found another two providing good opportunities to photos although all bar one of the dragons seen were somewhat inactive. In all we saw at least nine dragons during our three hours on the island.

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Before leaving the island some took the opportunity to buy dragon souvenirs while most of the group took the opportunity to drink from a coconut, a new experience for most of them. Once back on the boat we headed to a nearby bay. Chris, Roger and Peter took the opportunity to take a 30-minute snorkelling session and saw more than 100 species of fish during their swim while the rest of the group stayed on board the boat. Once the snorkelling session was over we had lunch on the boat as we headed back towards Flores. The journey back was very different to the journey out. We quickly had two Spinner Dolphins but these were the only cetaceans seen. By contrast we saw far more seabirds with large flocks of Red-necked Phalarope, good numbers of Bridled Tern and several Black-naped Terns in addition to the ubiquitous Swift Terns, at least two Bulwer’s Petrels, an all dark storm petrel that was presumably either Swinhoe’s or Matsudeira’s, and a single Wilson’s Petrel seen by Sheelagh. Several Lesser Frigatebirds were also seen. We were back at Labuan Bajo by mid-afternoon and while some of the group took the opportunity for a rest some birded around the grounds of the lodge. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----------------------------------

6th October Sam, our guide works for BirdLife Indonesia and recommended a full day visit to some sites to the south of Labuan Bajo. We arrived at the first site, Puarlolo, about 35 kms from Labuan Bajo around 6.30 am and spent the next three hours at a couple of sites where we found a number of new species including the terrific White-rumped Kingfisher, Black-naped Fruit Dove, Red-cheeked Parrot, Flores Crow and after a lot of effort Flores Monarch. Mammals were represented by a solitary Long-tailed Macaque while a flying lizard with a prominent yellow flange was appreciated by everyone. We then continued towards Lake Sano Nggoang a stop on route producing Chestnut-capped Thrush for Richard together with a few commoner species and a lunch stop shortly afterwards produced an unexpected Asian House Mouse caught in a drainage ditch by the local children. We continued on towards Lake Sano Nggoang seeing Little Grebe and Pacific Black Duck on the lake, and Helmeted Friarbirds, and further Elegant Pittas and White-rumped Kingfishers alongside the lake. Waiting until dusk we spent an hour or so unsuccessfully looking for the endemic Wallace’s and Flores Scops Owl and a calling Moluccan Scops Owl was somewhat scant compensation at the end of a very long day. The drive back to Labuan Bajo was eventful with the vehicle being grounded on a rough stretch of the track and it took us 10 minutes or so to get back onto the road. Back on the main road we witnessed the aftermath of what appeared to be a bad road accident but fortunately were not held up any further and finally returned to the lodge at around 10 pm for a late dinner after what had been a very long day. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------

7th October After the previous long day, the final day of the trip was very relaxing by comparison. We spent around two and a half hours walking along the beach to the nearby river mouth. The beach and the offshore sandbanks produced a good variety of new waders and terns for the trip including Javan Plover, Lesser and Greater Sand Plovers, Pacific Golden Plover, Grey-tailed Tattler, Whimbrel and Curlew Sandpiper, and Little, Common and Lesser Crested Tern.We also saw our only Sunda Teal of the trip. The area around the river mouth proved good for Cerulean and Stork-billed Kingfishers but we were unable to find the hoped for Beach Thick-knee. Mammals were represented by several Long-tailed Macaques, at least two of which swam across the river with their heads barely above the water. A Water Monitor crossed the river a couple of times and briefly showed well on the far shoreline. We returned to the lodge to shower, pack and our last lunch at the lodge before a mid-afternoon transfer for our flight back to Bali where we had a five and a half hour wait for our flight back to Dubai and connecting flights to London, Birmingham and Manchester, at the end of an enjoyable but tiring trip.

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MAMMALS Nomenclature follows Francis A Field Guide to the Mammals of South-East Asia and IUCN names for species not covered by this book.

Greater Short-nosed Fruit Bat (Peter Wheeler)

Lesser False Vampire (Peter Wheeler)

1 Javan (Horsfield’s) Treeshrew Tapaia javanica

At least three singles at Gunung Gede.

2 Lesser Treeshrew Tupaia minor

One seen by RH at Tanjung Puting.

3 Greater Short-nosed Fruit Bat Cynopterus sphinx

Three colonies of between one and 15 animals in the entrance gate and buildings at Way Kanan in Way Kambas. Previous trip reports including my own have treated these as Cynopterus brachyotis but according to Francis neither of the two forms of brachyotis occur on Sumatra and this is borne out by the latest IUCN range maps which only show sphinx and Horsfield’s Fruit Bat horsfieldi occurring on Sumatra!

4 Lesser Sheath-tailed Bat Emballonura montícola

One in a culvert under the main jeep track at Way Kambas. Others have reported Small Asian Sheathtail Bat E. alecto as occurring at Way Kambas but this species is not known from Sumatra.

5 Lesser False-Vampire Magaderma spasma

Two colonies of 15+ individuals in disused buildings at Way Kanan in Way Kambas. A solitary individual in a culvert under the main jeep track at Way Kambas.

6 Malayan Slit-faced Bat Nycteris tragata

One photographed in a culvert at Way Kambas.

7 Greater Woolly Horseshoe Bat Rhinolophus luctus

A larger grey horseshoe behaving the same way as the next species along the perimeter road at Way Kambas is assumed to have been this species. Lesser Woolly Horseshoe has previously been reported from Way Kambas but according to all available range maps does not occur on Sumatra. Acuminate Horseshoe Bat has also been reported but appears to be restricted to northern Sumatra.

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8 Trefoil Horseshoe Bat Rhinolophus trifoliatus

At least three of this species seen hawking from the underside of branches along the perimeter road at Way Kambas.

9 Small-disc Roundleaf Bat Hipposideros orbiculus

Up to 10 in total in two culverts under the main jeep trail at Way Kambas.

10 Sunda Slow Loris Nycticebus coucang

Great views of two along the perimeter road at Way Kambas.

11 Western Tarsier Cephalopachus bancanus

One picked up by PW’s thermal imaging camera in Way Kambas gave everyone great views. An unexpected bonus as it was the first mammal we saw in Way Kambas.

12 Sundaic Silvered Langur Trachypithecus cristatus

Small numbers on two days in Tanjung Puting and singles on two days at Way Kambas. Would have been commoner at the latter had we had access to boats.

13 Mitred Langur Presbytis melalophos

A group of six of these often difficult to find langurs along the main jeep track at Way Kambas.

Mitred Langur (Peter Wheeler)

Javan Lutung (Peter Wheeler)

14 Javan Lutung (Ebony or Javan

Langur) Trachypithecus auratus

20+ in at least three groups at Gunung Gede.

15 Long-tailed Macaque Macaca fascicularis

Common in Tanjung Puting. Small numbers on the second day and one on the fourth day in Way Kambas, singles at Puarlolo and at two locations near Lake Sano Nggoang on Flores and c.10 at the river mouth near Komodo Ecolodge at Flores. The latter included two individuals swimming across the river with their heads barely above the water. Would have been common at Way Kambas had we had access to boats.

16 Southern (Sunda) Pig-tailed Macaque Macaca nemestrina

Unusually scarce with only a single seen by CG, RH & SH along the perimeter road at Way Kambas.

17 Proboscis Monkey Nasalis lavartus

Common at Tanjung Puting.

- Silvery (Javan) Gibbon Hylobates moloch

Heard but sadly not seen at Gunung Gede.

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18 Agile Gibbon Hylobates agilis

One seen briefly by some and others heard by everyone at Way Kambas. Rarely seen here so a bonus for some.

19 White-bearded Gibbon Hylobates alibarbis

Heard on the first morning near the research station at Tanjung Puting with 5+ seen there the following morning. A tame individual at the feeding station at Camp Leakey in Tanjung Puting. Previously lumped with Agile Gibbon.

20 Siamang Symphalangus syndactylus

Commonly heard but surprisingly difficult to see at Way Kambas this year with brief sightings of one on the first morning, three the same afternoon and 4+ including a young one the following morning.

21 Bornean Orangutan Pongo pygmaeus

A total of at least six fully wild individuals seen on all three days in Tanjung Puting including an absolutely magnificent male in a riverside tree on the third afternoon. Larger numbers of re-habituated animals at the feeding stations near Rimba Ecolodge and at Camp Leakey.

22 Otter sp? Lutra sp?

The identification of a single otter seen briefly three times at Tanjung Puting was greatly debated. To my eyes it was smaller than Eurasian Otter and as such could have been Oriental Short-clawed, to others it was the same size which could suggest Hairy-nosed or Smooth. Both Oriental Short-clawed and Smooth Otters are generally gregarious whereas this appeared to be a solitary individual. According to the latest IUCN range maps and the maps in volume 1 of The Handbook of Mammals of the World Oriental Short-clawed is the only otter occurring in Southern Kalimantan but this is at odds with the range maps in the recent Phillips Field Guide to the Mammals of Borneo. However the latter seem to have exactly the same map for Smooth and Oriental Short-clawed Otters. Given the disputed size of the individual and the range anomalies I don’t think the species can be safely determined.

23 Malay Civet Viverra tangalunga

One seen near Way Kanan on the first night drive at Way Kambas.

22 Common Palm Civet Paradoxurus hermaphroditus

Probably the same individual seen on both night drives along the perimeter road at Way Kambas.

25 Leopard Cat Prionailurus bengalensis

One along the main jeep track on the second night drive in Way Kambas and at least two, probably three along the perimeter road on the final night drive at Way Kambas.

26 Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris

At least two as we departed the snorkelling area on the return journey from Komodo to Flores. Two unidentified dolphins close inshore on the way out to Komodo were probably also this species.

27 Irrawaddy Dolphin Orcaella brevirostris

An unexpected bonus with three groups totalling at least five individuals as we headed out across the bay from Pangkalan Bun to Tanjung Puting.

28 Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphin Tursiops aduncus

At least 5 pods totalling 20+ individuals on the crossing from Flores to Komodo but none on the return journey. All in the first 90 minutes out of Flores.

- Dolphin sp? Another group of 10+ small dark unidentified dolphins were seen in deeper water between Flores and Komodo. They appeared to be logging, all dived simultaneously and re-surfaced a couple of minutes later and having examined photos I suspect they may have been Melon-headed Whales but the views were inconclusive.

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29 Bearded Pig Sus barbatus

Three at Camp Leakey in Tanjung Puting including two around the feeding station.

30 Wild Boar Sus scrofa

Surprisingly scarce in Way Kambas with one seen briefly on day two and two on day four. A minimum of 16 seen on Komodo.

31 Lesser Mouse Deer Tragulus kanchii

Mouse deer were frequently seen in Way Kambas, up to 8 per day, but rarely well. Those seen well enough to identify were all Lesser Mouse Deer but it is likely that we also saw Greater Mouse Deer T. napu.

32 Red (Indian) Muntjac Muntiacus muntjak

Up to five seen daily in Way Kambas.

33 Sambar Rusa unicolor

Up to three daily in Way Kambas.

34 Javan Rusa Rusa timorensis

Common Komodo.

Javan Rusa (Richard Webb)

- Bali Cattle Bos javanicus Water Buffalo Bos bubalis

The attractive domestic form of Banteng was seen in large numbers in Flores along with small numbers of domesticated Water Buffalo.

35 Prevost’s Squirrel Callosciurus prevostii

Two on day 3 in Way Kambas.

36 Plantain Squirrel Callosciurus notatus

Two Tanjung Puting. Up to three each day in Way Kambas and at least one Gunung Gede.

37 Sunda Black-banded Squirrel Callosciurus nigrovattus

One at Way Kambas and 2+ Gunung Gede.

38 Three-striped Ground Squirrel Lariscus insignis

Singles on three days in Way Kambas.

39 Shrew-faced Ground Squirrel Rhinosciurus laticaudatus

Brief views of one near Way Kanan Research Station in Way Kambas.

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40 Black-eared (Pygmy) Squirrel Nannosciurus melanotis

Seen daily at Tanjung Puting including three in one tree on the second day.

41 Malaysian Tree Rat Rattus tiomanicus

One along the main jeep trail at Way Kambas.

- Rat sp? Rattus sp?

Unidentified rats were seen around the feeding station at Camp Leakey and in the van headlights near Lake Sano Nggoang on Flores.

42 Red Spiny Maxomys Maxomys surifer

One seen by RW along the perimeter road at Way Kambas.

43 Asian House Mouse Mus musculus

One caught by hand by kids in a drainage ditch while we had lunch near Lake Sano Nggoang on Flores.

44 Malayan Porcupine Hystrix brachyura

Brief views of one while spotlighting along the main jeep track at Way Kanan.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---

REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS

Komodo Dragon Varanus komodoensis

At least nine on Komodo although most were sadly rather sluggish in the late morning heat.

Water Monitor Varanus salvator

Three seen at Tanjung Puting and another attractive individual at the river mouth near Komodo Ecolodge on Flores.

False Gharial Tomistoma schlegelii

At least three including an extremely impressive large adult at Tanjung Puting. Fabulous animals.

Saltwater Crocodile Crocodylus porosus

At least three including a medium sized animal at Tanjung Puting.

Speckle-headed Vine Snake Ahaetulla fasciolata

At least three near the quay at Rimba Ecolodge in Tanjung Puting. An unidentified snake also swam in front of our boat at Tanjung Puting.

We also saw a selection of unidentified toads, frogs, geckos, skinks, lizards and some impressive flying lizards.

Saltwater Crocodile (Steve Rawlins)

17

BIRDS

RW – leader only

H – heard only

Thanks to CG, RH, SH & PW for the additional species seen during their additional midday walks around the lodges etc.

Tanjung Putting

Way Kambas

Java & Bali

Flores & Komodo

1 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

X

2 Brown Booby Sula leucogaster

X 3 Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel

X

4 Bulwer's Petrel Bulweria bulwerii

X

5 Wilson's Petrel Oceanites oceanicus

X

6 Swinhoe's/Matssudeira's Petrel Oceanodroma monorhis/matsudairae

X

7 Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana

X

8 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

X

X

9 Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia

X

X

10 Little Egret Egretta garzetta

X X

11 Pacific Reef Heron Egretta sacra

X

12 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

X X

13 Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa

X

14 Striated Heron Butorides striata X

X

15 Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa

X

16 Sunda Teal Anas gibberifrons

X

17 Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus X X 18 Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus X

X

19 White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster X

X

20 Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela X 21 Variable Goshawk Accipiter hiogaster

X

22 Japanese Sparrowhawk Accipiter gularis X 23 Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata

X

24 Changeable Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus X 25 Javan Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus bartelsi

X

26 Black-thighed Falconet Microhierax fringillarius X 27 Spotted Kestrel Falco moluccensis

X X

28 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus

X

29 Orange-footedScrubfowl Megapodius reinwardt

X

30 Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus

X 31 Green Junglefowl Gallus varius

X

32 Crested Fireback Lophura ignita

X 33 Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva

X

34 Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus

X

35 Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii

X

36 Javan Plover Charadrius javanicus

X

37 White-headed Stilt Himantopus leucocephalus

X

38 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos X

X

39 Grey-tailed Tattler Tringa brevipes

X

40 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia

X

41 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

X

42 Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus

X

43 Eastern Curlew Numenius madagascariensis

X

44 Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica

X

45 Red-necked Stint Calidris ruficollis

X

46 Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

X

47 Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus

X

48 Bridled Tern Onychoprion anaethetus

X

49 Little Tern Sternula albifrons

X

50 Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana

X

18

Tanjung Putting

Way Kambas

Java & Bali

Flores & Komodo

51 Common Tern Sterna hirundo

X

52 Swift Tern Thalasseus bergii

X

53 Lesser Crested Tern Thalasseus bengalensis

X

54 Island Collared Dove Streptopelia bitorquata

X

55 Spotted Dove Stigmatopelia chinensis

X X

56 Common Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica

X

X

57 Zebra Dove Geopelia striata

X

58 Cinnamon-headed Green Pigeon Treron fulvicollis X 59 Black-naped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus melanospilus

X

60 Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea X

X

61 Yellow-crested Cockatoo Cacatua sulphurea

X

62 Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi

X

63 Long-tailed Parakeet Psittacula longicauda X 64 Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris H 65 Black-bellied Malkoha Phaenicophaeus diardi

X

66 Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis

X 67 Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis

X

68 Oriental Bay Owl Phodilus badius

H 69 Sunda Scops Owl Otus lempiji

X

70 Moluccan Scops Owl Otus magicus

X

71 Buffy Fish Owl Ketupa ketupu X 72 Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata

X

73 Large Frogmouth Batrachostomus auritus

H 74 Sunda Frogmouth Batrachostomus cornutus

X

75 Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus

X 76 Mees's Nightjar Caprimulgus meesi

X

77 Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta

X 78 Cave Swiftlet Collocalia linchi

X

79 Edible-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus fuciphagus X

X 80 Whiskered Treeswift Hemiprocne comata

X

81 Red-naped Trogon Harpactes kasumba

X 82 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis

X

83 Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting X 84 Cerulean Kingfisher Alcedo coerulescens

X

85 Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx erithaca

X 86 Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis X

X

87 White-rumped Kingfisher Halcyon fulgida

X

88 Javan Kingfisher Halcyon cyanoventris

X 89 Collared (Mangrove) Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris

X X X

90 Sacred Kingfisher Todiramphus sanctus

X

91 Rufous-collared Kingfisher Actenoides concretus

X 92 Red-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis amictus

X

93 Blue-throated Bee-eater Merops viridis

X 94 Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus X

X

95 Oriental Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis

X 96 Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris X

97 Rhinoceros Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros X 98 Bushy-crested Hornbill Anorrhinus galeritus X X

99 Wrinkled Hornbill Aceroa corrugatus X 100 Red-crowned Barbet Megalaima rafflesii X 101 Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis X 102 Rufous Woodpecker Celeus brachyurus X X

103 Grey-and-buff Woodpecker Hemicircus concretus X X 104 Green Broadbill Calyptomena viridis X

105 Black-and-red Broadbill Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos X 106 Dusky Broadbill Corydon sumatranus

X

107 Banded Pitta Pitta guajana

X

19

Tanjung Putting

Way Kambas

Java & Bali

Flores & Komodo

108 Elegant Pitta Pitta elegans

X

109 Helmeted Friarbird Philemon buceroides

X

110 Tiger Shrike Lanius tigrinus X X 111 Fiery Minivet Pericrocotus igneus X

112 Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus X X 113 Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus hirundinaceus X X

X

114 Lesser Green Leafbird Chloropsis cyanopogon

X 115 Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis

X

116 Green Iora Aegithina viridissima

X 117 Flores Crow Corvus florensis

X

118 Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos

X

119 Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea X X

X

120 Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi X X

X

121 Flores Monarch Symposiarchus sacerdotum

X

122 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica X

X

123 Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica X

X

124 Great Tit Parus major

x

125 Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis

X 126 Straw-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus zeylanicus

X X

127 Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster

X

128 Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier X X 129 Olive-winged Bulbul Pycnonotus plumosus X X 130 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis

X

131 Javan Tesia Tesia superciliaris

X 132 Sunda Bush Warbler Cettia vulcania

X

133 Mountain Tailorbird Phyllergates cucullatus

X 134 Ashy Tailorbird Orthotomus ruficeps

X

135 Mountain Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus trivirgatus

X

136 Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica

X 137 Yellow-rumped Flycatcher Ficedula zanthopygia

X

138 Sunda Robin Myiomela diana

X 139 Chestnut-capped Thrush Zoothera interpres

X

140 Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophrys

X 141 Rufous-tailed Fantail Rhipidura phoenicura

X

142 Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica X 143 Brown-capped Fantail Rhipidura diluta

X

144 Common Golden Whistler Pachycephala

X

145 Black-capped Babbler Pellorneum capistratum X 146 Scaly-crowned Babbler Malacopteron cinereum X 147 Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler Napothera epilepidota

X

148 Pygmy Wren-Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla

X 149 Black-throated Babbler Stachyris nigricollis X

150 Chestnut-winged Babbler Stachyris erythroptera X 151 Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler Macronus ptilosus

X

152 Javan Fulvetta Alcippe pyrrhoptera

X 153 Yellow-ringed White-eye Zosterops wallacei

X

154 Thick-billed Darkeye Heleia crassirostris

x

155 Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Chalcoparia singalensis X 156 Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis X 157 Purple-throated Sunbird Nectarina sperata X 158 Olive-backed Sunbird Cinnyris jugularis X 159 Flame-breasted Sunbird Cinnyris solaris

X

160 Apricot-breasted Sunbird Cinnyris buettikoferi

X

161 Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra X X 162 Scarlet-breasted Flowerpecker Prionochilus thoracicus X X 163 Golden-rumped Flowerpecker Dicaeum annae

X

164 Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma

X

20

Tanjung Putting

Way Kambas

Java & Bali

Flores & Komodo

165 Black-fronted Flowerpecker Dicaeum igniferum

X

166 Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum X 167 Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis

X

168 Asian Fairy-bluebird Irena puella X 169 Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus

X

170 Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer

X 171 Wallacean Drongo Dicrurus densus

X

172 Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus X X 173 Bornean Bristlehead Pityriasis gymnocephala X

174 Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis X 175 Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa X

X

176 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

X X

177 Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus

X X X

178 House Sparrow Passer domesticus X 179 Red Avadavat Amandava amandava

X

180 Javan Munia Lonchura leucogastroides

X X 181 Black-faced Munia Lonchura molucca

X

182 Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata

X

Large-tailed Nightjar (Peter Wheeler)

www.wildwings.co.uk