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8/14/2019 Why do we eat what we eat.docx
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Why do we eat what we eat?
There are a number of factors that collectively determine the type and variety of food
eaten by particular groups of individuals in a given region at a given time. These factors
are extremely complex--so complex that no one who is given all the information possible
about climate, flora, and fauna in a given area at a particular time could possibly figure
out what kind of a diet prevailed at that time and place.
Not that these factors are not important, they are very important. But they are only
contributing factors, not determining ones. For example, however much one knew about
the environment of the region now known as Thailand, it would have been impossible to
predict the “menu” that would develop over the last few hundred years. Although it could
be expected that tropical spices would play a role, who could predict that the Portuguese
would introduce chilies. And who could know that those same Portuguese would go on to
introduce fried, breaded foods in Japan that would evolve into what we think of as a
quintessential Japanese dish--tempura.
What we can do is look at regional food preferences and see factors that, of necessity,
played a role in developing a local cuisine. If we see a diet based largely on rice and
beans, we can’t ask: why not beans or rice exclusively? Without combining those two
foods, those people would have vanished from the earth thousands of years before our
study. In other words, the question of how people figure these things out is irrelevant.
Those that do, survive. Those that do not, disappear.
Nevertheless, we almost invariably find that people adapt and develop food preferences
appropriate to the region in which they live. And when climate change or other factors
change their environment, peoples may or may not adapt, but if they do not, they
disappear and are not available for study by cultural anthropologists that arrive later.
So, the question why people eat what they do is somewhat misleading since it assumes a
deliberate process. The deliberate part is that we get hungry, but unlike other species we
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do not automatically eat what nature has intended. There are many foods that are found in
nature that do not require development of culinary skills to consume and they are obvious
sources of nutrition. Things like animal flesh and organs, or fruit and nuts would be eaten
by any human, no matter how primitive and no matter how inexperienced in choosing
what to eat. It would be impossible to prove this experimentally but it appears self-
evident.
But what about foods that in original state are toxic or difficult to digest? Here the species
has an advantage over the individual. If someone eats something toxic and dies, other
members of the tribe or clan will not repeat that fatal mistake. Until recently, science was
not developed to the point that we were able to analyze food stuffs and determine toxicity
and nutritional value, but we are all born equipped with some wonderful analytic tools:
smell and taste.
If human beings are established in a region of the earth in which survival is possible, they
will eventually develop a “menu” of local foods that will sustain them. This is not a quick
process. Groups like the Jivaro in the Amazon rain forest could not simply show up, craft
blowguns and darts tipped with curare and feast on small game brought down from the
forest canopy. It necessarily takes many lifetimes for developments like this.
Another factor is social organization. When the first humans crossed over either a land
bridge or a small water gap to populate North and South America they found many large
mammals that became extinct long before the arrival of Europeans. Animals such as the
mammoth could not possibly be hunted by a single individual. Somehow methods were
developed to make possible hunting these huge creatures to extinction by groups of
hunters working together.
Moving ahead to far more sophisticated food customs of recent history, we see a number
of important factors in what we eat. Much depends on what is available in our
environment. Cultures that develop on shores of oceans, seas, or large inland lakes will
have a cuisine in which seafood plays an important role. It is not surprising to find that
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insects are a popular delicacy in regions like Southeast Asia since they have so many
varieties of large insects.
A major factor in diets around the world resulted from the so-called Columbian
Exchange. We know about the devastating Irish potato famine that took so many lives
and sent many Irish to this country. But only a few hundred years earlier there were no
potatoes in Europe. Today you can find corn on the cob all over the world. Once it could
only be found in the Western hemisphere.
Greenland was once settled by Norse farmers. But the Little Ice Age made it impossible
for them to survive with European agriculture and farm animals. Most of them died. A
few may have survived by going back to Iceland. Meanwhile Inuits a short distance north
of the Norse settlements were doing quite well using far more primitive technologies that
nonetheless allow them to get the sustenance they needed from the sea. The Inuits had
developed their food culture and its technology over thousands of years.
Ideology is another factor behind cultural food choices. We can only speculate on why
Jews and Muslims avoid pork (as well as other foods) while Hindus abstain from beef. In
the modern era, Catholics ate fish on Friday until Rome decided that fish was optional.
This may have had something to do with the price of fish becoming out of reach for many
low-income families.
Many food practices with religious roots have gone even farther away from their ancient
origins. Jewish dietary rules require that animals to be kosher must die peacefully and
painlessly. A specially trained individual using a very sharp knife is supposed to open the
major blood vessels in the neck. There is little or no pain as the life flows out of the
animal. What a nice idea (please forgive the sarcasm). Now there is an industrial version.
A few years ago, someone got a job in a kosher slaughterhouse (that may not be the right
word for such an establishment). He smuggled in a video camera and recorded the
modern industrial version. The cow is forced down a narrow path to the killing area.
Suddenly an enormous claw drops down from the ceiling, grabs the animal, turns it
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upside down and lifts it so that its throat is about five feet above the floor. Then a man
wearing a waterproof coat drenched with blood moves in and cuts the animal’s throat.
There is blood everywhere. This was on eBay a few years ago.
If we look at the reasons behind the modern American diet, we see far different factors
dictating what most of us eat. To begin with, human beings, by their nature like things
that are fat and sweet. This makes a lot of sense in a primitive environment. Most sweet
things are good for us. Not only that but fats and sweets have survival value. Sweets are a
source of quick energy and fats are important to carry us from meal to meal in an
environment where the next meal might not be for another day or two. Pemmican, for
example, has a lot of fat.
The next factor is what we are told by the government. The original USDA food pyramid
recommended a diet rich in grains. Since that first pyramid, the weight of Americans had
skyrocketed. Many explanations are offered. The calories in, calories out theorists say
that Americans must be eating more or exercising less. The fact is that Americans are
exercising much more than they were a half-century ago. Back then aerobics was a new
word and Runners World’s annual shoe issue could review every single running shoe on
the market--all ten of them! So then there is the calories in part. This is definitely true of
people who derive a good deal of nourishment from fast food. A half century ago a 15-
cent McDonald's burger was smaller that anything they sell today. Then came bigger and
bigger sandwiches and the supersize concept.
But not everybody eats this stuff. What about them? Unfortunately, the grain rich diet
suggested by the government triggers insulin production and that accelerates fat storage.
Years ago, it was tough to sell some of today’s calorie-rich (read sugar and starch) easy-
to-prepare foods. The typical single-wage-earner family in the early post-world-war-2
had a full-time one-person kitchen staff. This presented a problem for the first cake mix
products that required only water added to the mix. Market research disclosed that
women felt guilty about using something required so little from them. So the makers had
the mixes require the addition of a “fresh egg” and sales took off. Then the TV dinner
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arrived and the food industry never looked back. They had a winning formula. Easy of
preparation with plenty of sugar and fat and the cash register never stopped ringing.
Breakfast cereals proliferated. From corn flakes came Rice Krispies, Wheaties, Cheerios,
and Shredded Wheat and so on until today with whole aisles filled with this type of product updated with bright colors and sugar. The freezer cases loaded with prefab foods
are not much better and just as expensive.