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White Objective Patent
1- Melanostatin-1: is a peptide obtained via chemical synthesis,
isolated from the frog brain, with an antagonis
effect on -MSH.Melanostatin is (soluble in water) acts in
opposition on the receptor and induces the
inhibition of melanin production. Melanostatindoes not inhibit
the quantity of -MSH produced, only its
pigmentation action. It therefore preserves its natural
anti-inflammatory action.
2- Andrographolideis an active compound extracted from the
leaves of Andrographis paniculata, an Asian plan
which grows in India and Malaysia, frequently used in
traditional Indian medicine. This molecule is known to
reduce the production of endothelin-1, oxidative stress (by
increasing the activity of superoxide dismutase) a
inflammatory reactions.
3- Azelaic acidis a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase and can
also inhibit the formation of free radicals.
Insoluble in its acid form, it requires a very strong usage
concentration (20%). The use of Lysine azelatehelps
solubilize and therefore significantly reduce its concentration
while preserving its DE-pigmenting activity.
4- Glabridinis a major component of the lipophilic fraction of
the licorice extract. It has a dual activity: it inhibit
the tyrosinasebut also the inflammation (cyclooxygenase
inhibition).
5- Ascorbyl glucosideis a good inhibitor of tyrosinase and
TRP-1, two enzymes responsible for the production o
melanin. It acts at an early stage by inhibiting the
phosphorylationiof MITF, a transcription factor involved in
the regulation of the melanogenesis process. When the MITF
expression is stimulated by -MSH, it binds to t
promoters for enzymes involved in the melanogenesis process and
increases the expression of tyrosinase an
TRP-1. By inhibiting the MITF phosphorylation, ascorbyl
glucoside deactivates it, thereby suppressing the
induction of the enzymes responsible for the production of
melanin, or delayed pigmentation.
6- Vitamin Cis also a powerful anti-free radical. d to
regenerate vitamin E, another potent antioxidant. There a
three forms commonly used in cosmetics: Its ability to reduce
(opposite reaction to oxidation) the already
formed melanin therefore corrects existing hyperpigmentation and
protects against the immediate
pigmentation induced by oxidative stress.iiThere are three forms
commonly used in cosmetics: ascorbyl
palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and L-ascorbic acid.
Ascorbyl palmitate, a fats oluble synthetic
ester of vitamin C, is stable in cosmetic formulas at neutral
pH. L-ascorbic acid is the most active form of
vitamin C and has numerous benefits for the skin. L-ascorbic
acid is water soluble and must be formulated at
low pH to stay active. In clinical studies vitamin C has been
found to act as an antioxidant and anti-
inflammatory agent. When applied after UV burning, vitamin C
reduces redness 50% sooner than untreated
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areas. Psoriasis and and eczema have also shown clinical
improvement with vitamin C. In addition, vitamin C
has been found to stimulate collagen synthesis. Note that
vitamin C in product must be packaged to protect
from excess light and air exposure.
7-
Niacinamide (or Vitamin PP)has long been known for its
de-pigmenting properties and anti-inflammatoryaction (inhibition of
pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF, IL1, IL8).
PREVENTION CORRECTION
UV
filters Melanocytes Tyrosinase Transfer Lightening
Exfoliating
MLSA ANDRO. GLAB LAZ Vitamin pp Vitamin C GLYCOLIC
Cream x x x x x x x
Fluid x x x x x x x
Serum x x x x x x x
Pen x x x x x x x
Mains x x x x x x
H2O x x x
Moussant x x x x
iPhosphorylationis the addition of a phosphate (PO43) groupby a
protein kinaseto a protein or other organic
molecule. It turns many protein enzymes on and off, thereby
altering their function and activity.
iiOxidative stress: a state of physiological stress in the body
that arises from exposure to high levels of reactive
oxygen species (ROS) relative to the level of neutralizing
antioxidants.
