8/10/2019 Whip up a real Durbs Dish

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18 ARTS Weekend Witness November 29, 2014

Jackie Cameron

Whip up a real Durbs dishKwaZulu-Natal is SAs home of curries and Durban is the only city with its own signature dish

I WAS recently given Durban Curry

(PawPaw Publishers). It is the most fan-tastic recipe book just one look atit had me rushing to the kitchen to whipup a real Durban dish.

The book oozes KwaZulu-Natal onevery page. After all this is our countryshome of curries and Durban, as far asIm aware, is the only city in South Afri-ca with its own signature dish.

Many visitors come here for the seaand sunshine, while others are here forour curries. Note here I use the plural there is not one standard Durban cur-ry. There is a variety from which tochoose.

A clue to knowing this book is some-thing really special is that, with DeviSankaree Govender, its written by theincredibly energetic editor/writer EricaPlatter; and talented photographer/de-

signer Clinton Friedman took the pic-tures.Their East Coast Tables as well as

East Coast Tables: Th e In land Editionwere highly successful.

Every good cook and even the not-so good should have these books.

They celebrate local recipes that havea simple family status as well as thoseon a more sophisticated restaurant lev-el. All the recipes tell a story and getto the heart of the dish. Clintons eyefor perfection and Ericas determina-tion to get the answer will certainlymove you as they did me.

First up is a timeless classic saysbanking executive Deena Naidoo, win-ner of South Africas first MasterChef

South Africa competition.

It is a superb example of the type ofdish that distinguishes Durban Indian

cooking; elevating the humblest ingre-dients with meticulous but adventur-ous spicy flavours.

Nose-to-tail eating (a contemporarycheffy trend) is old hat to Chatsworth-born-and-bred Naidoo. His sheepstrotters and sugar-bean curry is as closeas anyone can get to Indian-South Afri-can on one plate. Naidoo and I were inconstant contact before he wonMaster-Chef and I have so enjoyed watchinghim bring his personality to the table never shifting from who he is. Whenit comes to food he is Mr Integrity.

I met Fatima Stanley when I joinedthe South African Chefs Associationcommittee many years back. It is clearlyevident that she is part of a l arge family(first born of seven) because, for her,

nothing is ever too much trouble.Her friendliness and will to help out

are inspiring. She has run top hotelkitchens, her own catering company,and was principal of Zen Africa chefsschool.

Her latest venture, which I find excit-ing, is the MasterChef Culinary Acade-my. This is a skills kitchen where shetrains disadvantaged youngsters fromthe Wentworth area, which is close toher home on the Bluff in Durban.

Fatima is all about giving back. Per-haps shes paying it forwards? If she saysthis beef curry is fabulous, then rest as-sured it is. I look forward to Fatima lend-ing that helping hand at Jackie Camer-on School of Food & Wine.

Next up is from the queen of pre-serves, Cindy Valayadam, whose picklesand preserves fly off the shelves at her

buzzing Umhlali Fresh Produce shop to

tables around the country and abroad.Most of the items are made with ingre-dients grown on the nearby family farm.

Im reluctant to admit I have nevervisited Cindys shop, but recently Ge-orge and Louise Jardine, of Jardine Res-taurant on Jordans Wine Estate in Stel-lenbosch, came to KwaZulu-Natal andthe Midlands.

Their desire to explore led them toUmhlali Fresh Produce and at dinnerone evening they shared Cindys picklegarlic in roasted broccoli with me. Therecipe I have included baby brinjalpickle is as delicious.

The sides section of this recipebook is driving my taste buds into foodfrenzy! It came as a surprise to find Sha-men Reddis braised raita in the book.Its the only Midlands recipe featured,

as far as Im aware.It highlights braising carrots and thatthis practice transforms them from or-dinary to special. Shamens Impulse bythe Sea, at Tinley Manor Beach, is re-nowned for its crab curries as well asits warm, family ambience. Her curry isfeatured on the cover ofDurban Curry .

I met Linda Govender a few yearsback when I won my first Top 10 finedining award and she won Top 10 casualdining. She and her husband, RussellBurger, own Spice and it was always atreat to visit there and experience theirclever use of spices never overpower-ing but always evident.

Spice on the beach at Westbrook wasa dream that became reality and Lindais cooking in her signature style up-

dating classics, re-inventing local fla-

vours and, I believe, going far beyondthe curries to mapping a modern spiceroute of her own.

Her cauliflower and potato currywith peas is my kind of dinner. Give mevegetables any day of the week.

Asha Maharaj is a name and face weall recognise. She is a nationally re-nowned Indian cookery authority whotravels the country as a home econo-mist for Tastic Rice; hosts a magazineprogramme on Radio Lotus; demon-strates on TV; has written five books,including a bestseller on eggless baking;and, since 2000, written the hugely-popular cookery pages in theExtrasec-tion of the Sunday Times.

She maintains the secret of a goodDurban curry is paying attention tospicing; there is a different masala for

each curry.Im happy that Asha cooks with gheebecause it reminds me to do this again something I havent done for years.I suggest you try Ashnas banana kebabsin curried gravy.

This story book about food docu-ments Erica and Clintons quest toidentify the DNA of innovative Durbandishes. I applaud the team at PawPawPublishers for a truly special gem. Closefamily and friends can expect it to bein their Christmas stockings.

Meanwhile, I look forward to spend-ing time with my copy and learningmore about Durbans spicy heroes andheroines.

Here is to celebrating local becauseit is truly lekker!

Visit www.jackiecameron.co.za to find out more about her womens chefrange (mens to come shortly), Jackie Cameron Cooks at Home , and allher foodie adventures.Contact her at jackie@jackiecameron.co.za for information on JackieCameron School of Food and Wine in Hilton. For the latest on localfoodie news, add her as a friend on Facebook, follow her on Twitter@jackie_cameron and check out Instgram jackiecameronincolour

All recipes and photos in this article were supplied courtesy of theDurban Curry recipe book.

RECIPES TAKEN FROM DURBAN CURRYby Erica Platter and Clinton friedman, with Devi Sankaree Govender

Lindas Cauliflower and PotatoCurry with Peas.PHOTO: DURBAN CURRY

Shamen Reddis Braised Raita.PHOTO: DURBAN CURRY

1 fresh cauliflower cut into medium florets2 large potatoes peeled, cubed1/3 cup oil (olive or sunflower) tsp cumin seeds1 bay leaf2 heaped tsp finest curry powder (medium)

tsp turmeric tsp ground cardamom1 stalk fresh curry leaves2 medium onions, sliced1 cup green peassalt cup waterFew springs fresh dhania

METHOD

Clean cauliflower, set aside with potato. Heatoil, toss in cumin, bay leaf, curry powder, tur-meric, cardamom and curry leaves. Stir to-gether. Rapidly add onions, cook until trans-lucent. Add cauliflower, potato and peas (ifyou are using fresh peas; if frozen, add later,five minutes before end of cooking). Seasonto taste with salt. Add water, mix gently.Simmer until cauliflower and potatoes arecooked. If using frozen peas, add about five

minutes before you judge the potatoes willbe done. Scatter with fresh coriander. Servewith basmati rice or rolled in a roti.

LINDAS CAULIFLOWER AND POTATO CURRY

WITH PEAS1 carrot, grated1 Tbsp oil1 tsp mustard seeds1 tsp cumin seeds1/1 tsp turmeric red onion, chopped1 cup buttermilk

METHODGently fry the carrot in oil. Add seeds,continue frying until they pop. Add tur-meric, stir well. Take off heat, add on-ion. Stir mixture into buttermilk.

SHAMEN REDDIS BRAISED RAITA

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November 29, 2014 Weekend Witness ARTS 19

MasterChef South Africawinner, Deena Naidoo.PHOTO: DURBAN CURRY

Ashas Banana Kebabs inCurried Gravy.PHOTO: DURBAN CURRY

Fatimas Fabulous Beef Curry.PHOTO: DURBAN CURRY

FATIMAS FABULOUS BEEF CURRY

500 g baby brinjals1 cup water1 cup vinegar1 tsp salt1 cup sunflower oil3 Tbsp pickle (methi) masala1 tsp turmeric2 tsp crushed ginger and garlicSalt to taste

METHOD

Remove stems from brinjals. Slit brinjalstwice, lengthways, keeping intact at stemend. Blanch in boiling water, vinegar andsalt for 10 minutes. Drain. Heat oil. Addblanched brinjal, masala, turmeric, gingerand garlic, salt to taste. Gently mix in, onthe stove. Pack in glass bottles. Leave for aweek before serving.

CINDYS SUPER SIMPLE BABY BRINJAL PICKLE

ASHAS BANANA KEBABS IN CURRIED GRAVY

600 g lamb/sheep trotters, cleanedand brushed2 l water1 tsp salt1 tsp turmeric powder1 cinnamon stick2 star anise

3 bay leaves1 tsp ground cumin1 tsp ground coriander1 tsp garam masalaPinch of clove powder or 2 wholecloves1 tbsp each ground ginger andgarlic

METHOD

Place trotters in large pot. Com-pletely submerge in boiling water.Add all the seasoning and spices.

Bring to boil, stirring well to in-

corporate all the spices into theliquid.

Cover and simmer for 1 to 2hours, topping up the water afterevery 15 mins.

When done, the trotters shouldbe tender to the touch, meat and

skin falling off the bone. Reservecooking liquid.

SUGAR BEANS

250 ml (1 cup) dried sugar beans1 tsp salt1 tsp turmeric powder1 litre (4 cups) water

METHOD

Place all ingredients in pot. Bring toboil. Reduce heat, cover, simmeruntil beans are soft. Remove fromheat and allow to cool. Reserve

cooking liquid.

DHAL

cup pea dhal cup gram dhal1 red chilli1 tsp salt

1 tsp turmeric powder2 cloves garlic1 litres of waterMETHOD

Mix all ingredients in large pot.Pour in 4 cups of water, bring toboil, stirring occasionally.

Cover and simmer until dhal issoft. Remove from heat. Removedhal and allow to cool. Reservecooking liquid.

BRAISED CHUTNEY

4 tbsp oil

1 stick cinnamon tsp mustard seeds1 tsp fennel seeds2 bay leaves1 large onion, finely diced1 green chilli, sliced1 tsp ground ginger

1 tsp garlic, crushed1 sprig curry leaves2 tomatoes, grated1 tsp turmeric powder1 tbsp mixed masala2 tsp fresh thymeMETHOD

Heat oil and cinnamon stick inlarge pot. Add mustard seeds andcurry leaves, allow seeds to pop.Add fennel seeds, bay leaves andonion, continue to fry until onionturns golden.

Stir in chilli, ground ginger and

garlic. Continue to saut. Add curryleaves, tomato, turmeric powder,mixed masala, thyme. Cover, sim-mer 3-4 minutes. Remove pot fromheat.

FINAL ASSEMBLY OF CURRY

2 tsp garam masalaSalt to tasteFresh coriander, chopped

METHOD

Mix dhal, sugar beans, and all re-served liquids.

Add trotters. Gently ladle this in-to chutney. Return to stove, sim-mer on medium heat 30-40 min-utes. Sprinkle in garam masala.Season with salt if required. Gar-nish with coriander.

Serve with rice.

DEENAS SHEEPS TROTTERS AND SUGAR BEANS CURRY

6 green bananas cup fresh breadcrumbs1 tsp ginger paste1 tsp chilli flakes1 tsp cumin seeds2 Tbsp fresh coriander,chopped2 Tbsp mint, chopped4 spring onions, slicedSaltFlour for dustingGhee for shallow fryingCURRIED GRAVY

12 Tbsp ghee1 tsp cumin seeds1 tsp black mustard seedsA few curry leaves1 medium onion, chopped2 green chillies, sliced1 tsp garlic, crushed1 Tbsp mixed masala1 cup tomato, grated1 tsp sugarSalt cup waterChopped coriander forgarnish

KEBABS

Rinse unpeeled bananas,cover in water and boil for20 minutes. Drain, cool,peel and grate.Add remaining ingredients,excluding flour and ghee.Mix well. Divide into eightto 10 equal portions androll into balls. Dust lightlywith flour. Fry in ghee until

lightly browned.

GRAVY

Heat ghee, add seeds andcurry leaves. as they pop,add onion, chilli, garlic.Cook until soft. Add rest ofingredients, cook until thick,about 10 mins.

TO SERVE

Spoon gravy over kebabs.Serve on, or wrapped in,rotis, garnished with corian-der leaves.

2 Tbsp olive oilAromatics: 1 cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves, tsp fennel seeds1 medium onion, finely chopped2 cloves garlic, finely minced1Tbsp fresh ginger, minced2 green chillies, sliced lengthwise1 tsp fresh thyme5 curry leaves2 Tbsp medium curry powder1 tsp ground coriander1 tsp ground cumin400 g beef fillet, cubed250 ml tomato puree250 g chickpeas, cookedFresh coriander, choppedSalt to taste

METHOD

Put oil in a large saucepan, over moderateheat. Add aromatics and onion. Cook, stir-ring occasionally, until translucent: aboutfive mins. Add garlic, ginger, chillies, thymeand curry leaves. Cook, stirring, for oneminute. Add curry powder, coriander andcumin powders. Cook for one minute.

Add meat to pan. Cook, stirring, until allspices have combined. Add tomato puree,some chopped coriander, salt to taste. Al-low to cook gently for about 15 to 20 min-utes on moderate heat.

Lastly add chickpeas, allow to cookthrough for five minutes. Garnish with cori-ander sprigs. Serve with basmati rice, rotiand sambals.