where’s the beef?...GRA ND OPE I ! South Charlotte Promenade on Providence (704) 841-1212 Charlo te Park Town Village (704) 295-9292 Charlotte-University Grand Promenade Phase II

november • december 2010

“drink the stars” this holiday seasonis tannat the next big thing?it’s all in the family at baker buffalo creek

where’s the beef?river taw farms’ grassfed beef is the real thing

in each issue

06 ripe for the picking beerandwinepicksfortheholidays

08 juicy morsels savetheflavorsofsummer andfallvegetables

10 seats & eats sweezyhouseiswellworth thedrive

12 juicy morsels idon’tgiveafigforadulterated versions

13 uncorked thefactsaboutbalsamicvinegar

33 places to go, people to see acalendaroflocalevents

34 scene around town takealookatwho’sbeenout andabout

36 through the grapevine news&gossipwithinthe charlotteepicureanscene

37 local flavor tastytreatsfortheholidays

38 ripe for the picking hotspotsinandaroundtown

14“…iamdrinkingthestars”

26 where’sthebeef?rivertawfarms’grassfed

beefistherealthing

18 tannat:thenextbigthing?

22it’sallinthefamilyatbakerbuffalocreek

contents

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�vo lume 2 • i ssue 6 www.ep icureancharlotte.com

4 www.ep icureancharlotte.com vo lume 2 • i ssue 6 �ep icurean char lo t te food & wine Nov emb e r • D e c emb e r 2 0 1 0

Epicurean CharlotteispublishedlocallybyCharlottefoodandwineloversforfellowfoodandwinelovers.We hope you enjoy our publication and find ithelpful when choosing wine, a place to dine orevents around town. Copying or reproduction, inpartorinwhole,isstrictlyprohibited.

publisher/editorLindaSeligman

associate editorAshleyBlakeSummerlin

design & productionAshleyBlakeSummerlin

[email protected]

advertising salesLindaSeligman

[email protected] • 704.904.8249

photographyLindaSeligman

AshleyBlakeSummerlin

contributing writersMichaeleBallard,LisaPalladino,

Dr.LeonardPerry,DavidRosengarten,MarkVirgili,KimberlyWallace

printing Indexx Printing

JamesJonesdirect 864.335.5085 • mobile 864.354.7100

[email protected]

webAshleyBlakeSummerlin

cover imagePatrickO’LearyA Roman-style Trattoria in Piper Glen.

6414 Rea Road • Charlotte704.544.4949 • www.rudyscharlotte.com

Veni, Vidi, Vici!

Authentic Thai cuisine made with only the

freshest ingredients

613 Providence Road • Charlottep. 704.333.7884 • f. 704.333.7793Tue-Fri: 11-3, 5-10; Sat-Sun: 5-10

www.deejaithai.com

Now Serving Sushi!

DEEJAIthai restaurant

“Your Escape from the Everyday”™

Voted Best of the Best

Brunch By Charlotte Magazine

Café Monte French Bakery and Bistro is known for offering affordable, high quality French fare, exquisitely prepared to order. Classic French country favorites served all day include fresh pastries, salads, sandwiches, quiches and crêpes as well as a full breakfast menu. In addition, enjoy our bistro service, featuring mussels, steak and pommes frites, rotisserie chicken and other specialties served in a casual and comfortable European setting.

Café Monte French Bakery and Bistro’s commitment to using only the highest quality ingredients served fresh at an exceptional value for our customers makes quality French food accessible to all. Bon Appétit!

Brunch, Lunch and Dinner : : Catering : : Bakery : : Patio Private Dining : : Bridal Showers : : Rehearsal Dinners

On- and Off-site Catering : : Breakfast MeetingsMon - Thur 9am - 10pm : : Fri & Sat 9am - 11pm : : Sun 9am - 3pm

www.cafemonte.net : : 6700 Fairview Road Allen Tate Building at Phillips Place : : 704.552.1116

Locally owned and operated since 2007

Ballantyne Village 14815 John J. Delaney Drive

Charlotte, NC 28277704.369.5050

www.dvinewinecafe.com

D’Vine Wine CafeGourmet Casual Restaurant and Wine Bar

Retail Wine Shoppe with 600 labels & 1500+ bottles

•VotedBestWineList(twice)•BestPatioDining•BestSmallPlates•LiveMusic3DaysaWeek

6 Nov emb e r • D e c emb e r 2 0 1 0 ep icurean char lo t te food & wine �vo lume 2 • i ssue 6 www.ep icureancharlotte.com

ripe for the picking

Jai Budsri of Deejai Thai Restaurant recommends the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2009. Bottle $35.00

Palestrawandslightlygreenishincolor,thiswinefeaturesnotesofabundanttropicalpassionfruitwithgreencelery,lemonandstarfruit.Onthetongue,thebodyislight,tartapproachingshrill,andthere’splentyofgrapefruit,greenappleandgooseberryflavorsthatfinishcrispandverydry.

Bill Ryan of Clean Catch Fish Market is drinking the 2008 Talley Vineyards Chardonnay. Bottle $26.99

ThisChardonnayhaslivelytropicalaromasofpineappleandcreamycoconutlayeredwithnotesoflemoncustard,limezestandhintsofjasmine.Fullbodiedandwellbalanced,itpairsnicelywithshellfish,scallopsandlobster.

Phong Luong of Zen Asian Fusion is drinking the 2007 St. Francis Claret. Glass $11.00; Bottle $42.00

36percentMerlot,25percentCabernetSauvignon,22percentMalbec,10percentCabFrancand7percentPetitVerdotblendedtogethertocreateacomplex,well-balancedandfull-flavoredwine.Thisbeautifullycraftedwineofmedium-bodyandrichtanninsdis-playsaromasofcedar,vanillaandtoffeewithflavorsofrichripeplumandstrawberries.

Greg Roach of Brio Tuscan Grille is drinking the Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico 2006.Glass $7.95; Bottle $45.00

Intenseandcomplex,whichistypicalofthegrape,thiswineisdeeprubyredincolorwithnotesofcherries,floralandvanillahints.Softandroundwithintegratedtannins,thisChiantiispleasantlyalcoholicwithgoodtextureandexcellentbalance.Thefinishispersistentandmouthfilling.

Terry Miller of D’Vine Wine Café will be drinking the 2005 Brassfield Estate Eruption, Volcano Ridge Vineyard from Clear Lake, CA, for the holidays.Bottle $18.99

Thiswineisablendof69percentSyrah,18percentMourvedre,5percentGrenache,5percentPetiteSirahand3percentother.Thiswineisdeeppurpleincolorwithjustatouchoftransparency.Onthepalateyoucantasteblackcherrieswithahintofgreenpepperandatouchoflingeringsmoke.

Josh Coppola of Portofino’s Italian Restaurant is enjoying the new vintage 2009 Carpineto Dogajolo Toscano. Bottle $28.00

Madefrom80percentSangioveseand20percentCabernetSauvignon,itopenstoaromasofblackcherries,blackberries,raspberry,coffee,hay,cedarandspice.Thepalateisfirmandmid-bodiedwithsomenicelycontrolledoakandspicy,savoryfruitcharacters.Slightlyrufftanninsandagooddryfinishmakethiswinequiteenjoyablewithfood.

Rudy Amadio of Rudy’s Italian Restaurant & Bar is enjoying the new release of the 2007 Casale del Giglio Petit Verdot from Italy. Bottle $40.00

Blackcurrantandblackfruitdominatethepalateofthispurplecoloredwinewithintensenotesofgrapejelly,grapebubblegumandblueberrypieonthenose.Therearesomeinitialbittertanninsthateventuallysoftenasthewineopensupandasourfinishthatalsodissipatesonthesecondday.

Monte Smith of Café Monte French Bistro & Bakery is recommending the Rombauer Vineyards’ 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Bottle $36.00

Thiswineweavesripeblackfruitflavorswithsubtleearthypurities.Savorypomegranate,blackcherry,mintandchocolatefilloutthepalate.Whilethewellintegratedtanninsgivewaytonuancesofblackcherry,thiswinehasanelegantandlingeringfinish.

Sean McCormack of Johnny’s Red Bowl has been enjoying the 2001 Steele Clear Lake Merlot for some time. Glass $10.00; Bottle $40.00

Thisain’tyourmother’sMerlot.ThisMerlotisafavoriteevenamongstnon-Merlotdrinkers.Withitslushberryfruit,freshtobacco,toastyoakandlightpepperflavorswithmediumtanninsandalong,lingeringfinish,you’resuretobeaconvertedMerlotfan.

Victoria Spangler from Pasta & Provisions is sipping on the Sciara Terra Nera Pinot Nero from Sicily. Bottle $21.99

ThisItalianPinotNeroisfullbodied,richandmouthwatering.Itsbrightacidity,typicallyassociatedwithItalianreds,makesitagreatfoodwine.Blackcherries,toastedalmonds,plums,cinnamonandvanillaareprevalentinthislovelySiciliangem.

Mark Virgili of Total Wine will be drinking the 2006 Dom Mousset Les Garrigues Côtes du Rhône for the holidays. Bottle $17.99

Excellentforthecoolermonths,thiswinefeaturesaromasofmulledspiceandblacktea,whichleadsthewayforcurrantandcherrynotes,lacedwithgraphite,fruitcakeandwhitepepperspice.It’sperfectwithheartystewsorgameydishes.

Mark Heanton of Terra Restaurant highly recommends the 2005 Spanish Vines Crianza Tempranillo.Bottle $36.00

Boastinganelegantbouquetofvanilla,ripeplumsandwhitepepper,thisrichandfull-bodiedwinefeaturescomplexflavorsprogressingfromprunesandblackberriestodarkchocolateandcocoa.Itgoeswellwithgame,redmeat,lamb,flavorfulhardcheesesandmushroomsauces.

juicy morsels

save the flavors of summer & fall vegetables

fyouhavealargefreezer,freezingvegetablesrightfromthegardenorlocalfarmstandmaybeeasierandlonger

lastingthantraditionalstoragemethods.Mostvegetablescanbefrozenquiteeasily.Thereareexceptions,however,suchasgreenonions,lettuceandothersaladgreens,cucumbersandtomatoes(exceptforuseinjuicesandcooking).

Beforeyoubegin,youshouldstockcontainersforfreezing.Besuretouseonesspecificallyforfreezers,includingplasticfreezerbagsandrigidplasticcontain-ers.Productssuchassandwichbags,breadbagsanddairycontainerswon’tworkwellforstorageastheyallowforlossofmoisture,which, in turn, leadsto brownish-white spots known asfreezerburn.Althoughdried-outpro-duceisn’tspoiled,itisoftentoughwithoddflavors.

Anotherimportantkeytopreservingthe texture and flavor of vegetables when freezing isblanching prior to freezing. Blanching is simply scaldingvegetables inhotwaterorsteam forashort time tostopenzyme action. Enzymes in produce are responsible fortheirgrowthandmaturation,sotheymustbestoppedpri-or to freezing.Blanching timeswill varywithvegetables.Toolittletime,andtheenzymeskeepworking.Toomuchtime,andthevegetablescomeoutofstorageovercooked.

Toblanchinboilingwater,lowerapoundofvegetablesinagallonofboilingwater.Ifsteamblanching,suspendathin layerofvegetables inawirebasketoverone to twoinchesofboilingwater inapot. Inthemicrowave,blanchtwocupsofvegetablesata timewithonequartercupofwaterinatwo-quartcasserole.Coverwithplasticwrap,notaglasslid,todecreaseblanchingtime.

Afterblanching,coolquickly ina largeamountofcoldwater. Using running water and/orice often helps. Since food expands,leave about a half-inch of space atthe top when packing in rigid con-tainers. In freezerbags,press theairoutof thebagbeforeclosing.Thesemethods are ‘solid pack,’ in whichcase you thaw the whole container.If you freeze the vegetables on atrayprior topacking, thismethodof

‘loosepack’allowsyoutopouroutvegetablesasneeded.Whencookingfrozenvegetables,keepinmindthatall

butcornonthecob(itshouldbepartiallythawed)shouldbecookedwithoutthawing.Sinceblanchedvegetableshavebeen partially cooked, they’ll need less time than freshvegetables,socookonlyuntiltender.EDr. Leonard Perry is an Extension Professor at the University of Vermont. He can be reached at [email protected].

i

• Lima beansshouldbeblanchedfortwotofourminutes, dependingonsize,with the least time for thesmallest beans.Green beans canbeleftwhole,orcutintoshort lengths.Removetips,andblanchforthreeminutes.• Beets shouldbewashed,sortedbysizeandtopstrimmed offbut leavingahalf-inchof stem.Boiluntil tender— 25minutes forsmallbeets,more for larger.Cool, then sliceorcubetofreeze.•Wash and trimbroccoli into pieces one to two inches across.Ifyouseeinsects,soakforahalfhourinasolution offourteaspoonssaltinagallonofwater.Blanchinwater for threeminutesoroversteamforfiveminutes.Treat cauliflower thesame.•Similarly,forBrussels sprouts,checkandtreatforinsectsif needed.Removecoarse,outerleaves,washandsortbysize. Blanchthreetofiveminutes,dependingonsize.•Forcabbage,removecoarse,outerleaves,cutintoshreds orwedges,thenblanchforoneandahalfminutes.•Removetopsofcarrots, thenwash.Leavewhole,orcut intosectionsorstrips.Blanchwholecarrotsfiveminutes, dicedorslicedcarrotsfortwominutes.•Sweet corn canbe lefton thecobafter thehusksand silksareremoved.Blanchsmallearssevenminutes,large ears11minutes.Ifcuttingkernelsoffthecob,blanchfor fourminutes.• Wash,peel andcuteggplant intoone-third inch thick slices.Soak in theaforementionedsaltsolution forfive

minutestopreservecolor.Blanchforfourminutes.•Althoughyoucan’tfreezesalad greens,youcanwashand blanchgreens frombeets,collards, turnips,spinach and others similar. Blanch tender greens one and a half minutesandothergreenstwominutes,exceptforcollard greens,whichshouldbeblanchedforthreeminutes.•Peel,washanddicefullymatureonions.Looselypackin freezerbagswithoutblanching.•Shellgreen peas,thenblanchforoneandahalfminutes.For snow peas,removeblossomendsandstrings,thenblanch wholeforoneandhalftothreeminutesdependingonsize.• Green or hot peppers shouldbewashed,cutintorings orslicesandfrozenwithoutanyheattreatment.•Wash,peelandcutpotatoes intohalf-inchcubes.Blanchfor fiveminutes.Forhash browns,cookpotatoesinjacketsuntil almostdone.Cool,peelandcutintodesiredshapestofreeze.• Washsummer squash orzucchini, thencut intoone-half inchslicestoblanchforthreeminutes.• Forjuice tomatoes,wash,sortbysizeandcutintoquarters. Simmerforfiveto10minutes,thenpressthroughasieve priortocoolingandfreezing.Forstewed tomatoes,wash andscaldforaminutetoloosentheskin,thenpeeland core.Quarter,simmerfor15minutes,thencool.Forraw tomatoes,peelandcoreasabove.Thenquarterandput incontainers,pressingdowntoreleasethejuice.Leavean inchofheadspace incontainersof tomatoes,more for thejuice.

by dr. leonard perry

blanch \'blanch\

to scald or parboil in water or steam in order to remove

the skin from, whiten or stop enzymatic action in

(as food for freezing)

Specific tips and blanching times for popular vegetables:

8 www.ep icureancharlotte.com vo lume 2 • i ssue 6 �ep icurean char lo t te food & wine Nov emb e r • D e c emb e r 2 0 1 0

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10 Nov emb e r • D e c emb e r 2 0 1 0 ep icurean char lo t te food & wine 11vo lume 2 • i ssue 6 www.ep icureancharlotte.com

sweezy house is well worth the driveby michaele ballard

images by ashley blake summerlin

or Dallas and Denise Pierce, The Sweezy HouseRestaurant andBakery is adreamcome true.Forcustomers,it’savisualandgastronomictripbackin

time,one filledwithstandardsouthern roastbeef andgravy, fried green tomatoes (with a twist) and made-from-scratchdesserts.

Forthemoreadventurous,therearecreativedisheslike Firecracker Shrimp or Chicken and AndouilleSausagewithpennepastainazestychipotle,sun-driedtomatoandlimebutter.

Regardlessofwhichcategoryyou fall into,youareguaranteed a trip down memory lane dining on theAmerican regional cuisine the couple prepares withpassionat theSweezyhomestead,which is filledwithDenise’sgrandmother’santiques.

“Iwantedtherestauranttobeatributetomyfamily,”explains Denise, whose family occupied the lovelyhouse built in 1923 in Fallston, NC, for decades. “Mygrandmothertaughtmetocook,andIlovedherdearly.Aftershedied,thehousewaspasseddowntomymother.[DallasandI]boughtitin2006.

“We did most of the renovation ourselves, but wewerecarefultokeepitsintegrity.Thelights,decorations,woodslatwallsandfireplacesarealloriginal,”shepoints

out. It is furnishedwithsideboards, schoolchairsandartifacts fromhergrandmother’shome,evenan1800stelephonehangsonthewall.

“Wewantedittobehomeybutalittlemoreelegant,”saysDenise.

Brown tablecloths, lacecurtainsandasmallvaseoffresh flowersoneach tableset thestage.Ourwaitress,April Jackson, has been with the restaurant since itopened two and a half years ago. She is enthusiasticaboutthespecials:ribeyesteakwiththeSweezyHousefamousbutter;pecanandbourbonglazedsalmon;andtonight’s special, searedgrouperwhich is then toppedwithachipotleandparmesanAuGratinandbrowned.

“Ourspecialsselllikecrazy,”Apriltellsus,beaming.The French onion soup is piping hot, perfectly

seasonedwithlotsofcheese.Thesoupoftheday,tomatobisque,ischockfullofhomegrowntomatoes.

But themost amazingappetizersare still to come:hot crab dip served with toast points in addition to astackofhotandfreshfriedgreentomatoeslayeredwithfried oysters and drizzled with a creamy blue cheesesauce.Thetomatoesarecrispontheoutside,cookedtoperfectioninside.Theyareworthanhour’sdrive.

Thespinachsalad isbeautiful and tasty, toppedwith

oranges,almondsandstrawberrieswithasplashofraspberryvinaigretteandamedallionofdeepfriedgoat’scheese.The14-ounceribeyesteakentréewasaperfectmediumrareandwasservedwithParmesanpotatoesandcrisp,sautéedzucchini,broccoli,yellowsquashandcarrots.

The Firecracker shrimp and Andouille sausagepenne pasta has a sauce with an interesting blend ofcilantro,chipotleand lime.Denisecreated itwhensheworkedforasouthwesternrestaurant,andithasbeenatopsellerwherevershegoes.

The Sweezy House menu has evolved out of thePierce’sbackgroundsworkingwithavarietyofcuisinesranging from French to Italian,southwesternandSeafood.

“We love to prepare southernfavoriteswitha little twist,andwelike to provide something a littlemoreexoticforthosewhowanttogiveitatry,”Dallasexplains.

You can enter the restaurantbywayof thewrap-aroundporchwith seating in anenclosedarea,orthecharmingparlor.Thehousefeaturesheartofpinefloorsandisfilledwith familybelongings includingantiquerockingchairs,a1800ssewingmachine,1900sschoolbooksandadisplayofDenise’smother’stoys.Theoriginalfireplacein the parlor room has a tall wood mantelpiece, andphotographsof family through theagesaredisplayedon the walls. “It reminds guests of their own history,kidsespeciallylovethisroom,”Deniseexplains.

Inside, there are four separate dining rooms, eachnamedforarelative. In thebackof therestaurant isanopen kitchen with a counter where you can dine andcustomers can watch the meals being prepared. “It’s a

goodchancetointeractwiththecustomers,”addsDallas.TwodessertcasesarefilledwithDenise’shomemade

specialties: coconut cream and key lime pies; whitechocolateandmacadamianutcheesecake;pumpkincrisp;andlargecookies,whichcanbeorderedbycustomersforspecialoccasions.“Wealwayshaveat least10desserts;wealternateourspecials,”sheadds.

ThePierce’smet inHiltonHead,SC, in1989whenthey were both working for a French restaurant. Heworked his way up in the restaurant business afterservingtimeintheNavy;sheattendedculinaryschoolatAsheville-BuncombeTechnicalCommunityCollege.The

couple,whohavebeenmarried15years and have three boys (Garit,CarterandColby),dreamedofonedayhavingtheirownrestaurant.

Thatdreamcametruemid-Aprilof 2008 when The Sweezy Houseopeneditsdoors.

“At first,wewereafraidpeoplewould think we were too fancyor too expensive. When they didtry us, they would stick with thetraditionaldishes,butnowtheyare

morewillingtotrynewthings,”explainsDallas.Wordoftheirexceptionalmenuhastraveled.“Alotof

ourcustomerscome fromMorganton,Lenoir,Hickory,even South Carolina. People are used to driving 45minutesaroundheretogetgoodfood,”saysDenise.

OnSundays,oneoftheirspecialsisslicedroastwithgravyalongwithitemsfromtheregularlunchanddinnermenus.“Wehave200peopleeverySunday,300onspecialoccasionslikeMother’sDayandEaster,”sheadds.

“Weareblessed,ourdreamhascome true. I thinkmyfamilywouldbeproudofTheSweezyHouse.”E

4629 fallston road • fallston, nc704.538.0044 • www.thesweezyhouse.com

the sweezy house

seats & eats

f

“At first, we were afraid people would think we were too fancy

or too expensive. When they did try us, they would stick

with the traditional dishes, but now they are more willing to

try new things.”

12 www.ep icureancharlotte.com vo lume 2 • i ssue 6 13ep icurean char lo t te food & wine Nov emb e r • D e c emb e r 2 0 1 0

Fresh figs are one of the most perishable fruits around, and because of that, they should be purchased only a day or two in advance of when you are planning on eating them. Look for figs that have a deep, rich color and that are plump and tender, without being mushy. They should be free of bruises and have firm stems. Smelling figs can also give you clues into their freshness and taste. Figs should not smell sour (which in an indication that they may be spoiled) and should have a mildly sweet fragrance.For the most antioxidants, choose fully ripened figs.

i don’t give a fig for

adulterated versions

fby david rosengarten

juicy morsels

how to select and store figs

raditionalBalsamicVinegarofModena(Italy)ismadefromwhiteandsugaryTrebbianograpesgrownon

the hills around Modena. Custom demands that thegrapesareharvestedaslateaspossibletotakeadvantageofthewarmththatnatureprovidesthere.Thevinegarismade from thecooked ‘grapemust’ (the juicepressedfromgrapesbeforeithasfermented;newwine)maturedby a long and slow vinegarization process throughnatural fermentation. This is followed by progressiveconcentrationbyaging ina seriesof casksmade fromdifferenttypesofwoodwithouttheadditionofspicesorflavorings.TheproductionoftraditionalBalsamicVinegaris laborintensiveandtimeconsuming;thisaccountsforitshighcostandlimitedavailability.

ProductionoftraditionalBalsamicVinegarisgovernedby Italian lawandprovides that a specificcertificationagency—Cermet—overseesallproductionphases, fromthe vineyard to the bottle. All of the product that isbottledmustpassasensoryexaminationrunbyapaneloffivetastingjudges.

Commercial grade Balsamic Vinegar of Modenaconstitutesamoreeconomicalalternativetothetraditionalproduct. In theUnitedStates,productsarealsoallowedto be labeled as Balsamic Vinegar, based on the U.S.labeling laws.Theseproductsaremade from the juiceof grapes, but would not carry the term “of Modena”on the label. Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modenaisgenerally foundonly in specialty stores.Commercialgrade Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, however, can befoundinspecialtystores,supermarketsandsupercentersalike. Commercial products are of high quality andsuitable foruse inmarinades,vinaigrettedressingsandinmakingpansauces.

Theproducthasalongshelflifeandcanbestoredinaclosedcontainer indefinitely.Store theproductat39°to86°F (4° to30°C),but refrigeration isnot required.Exposuretoairwillnotharmtheproduct,butmaycause‘mothering,’whichcauses thesolids tofilterout.Somesedimentation is normal for a product that contains ahigh levelof soluble solids,but the sedimentation willdisappearwhenthebottleisshaken.

Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is onlybottled in thedistinct, 100mlbulb-shapedbottle. Ithaseitherawhitecap(minimumageof12years)orgoldcap(minimumageof20years).

Saladdressings,saucesandgraviescanbenefitfromthe addition of Balsamic Vinegar. Sprinkle on cookedmeat to add flavor and aroma; season salad greens,strawberries,peachesandmelons;oruseasaningredientinyourfavoritesaladdressing.EContent by Lisa Palladino ©2010 AOL Inc. Used with permission.

the facts about balsamic vinegarby lisa palladino

uncorked

t

• black mission: blackish-purple skin and pink colored flesh• kadota: green skin and purplish flesh• calimyrna: greenish-yellow skin and amber flesh• brown turkey: purple skin and red flesh• adriatic: the variety most often used to make fig bars, which has a light green skin and pink-tan flesh

some of the most popular varieties of figs

igs are hot. All over the U.S., trendy chefs areincorporating them into their creations, and

customers are saying “Ooooh… figs. Let’s orderthisdish,”whatever“thisdish”maybe.

Adam may have had the same response; manyclose readers of the Bible speculate that good ole’Eve actually proffered him a fig, not something asCalvinistasanapple.

The only sin I’m talking about here, however,is the sin of eating your fig all mucked up with achipotle-balsamicvinegarreductionoragastriqueofMeyer lemons or 14 other players in a fig ‘tartare’thatwaltzesontopofararemagret.

When thefigcomes to the table in tandemwithother things, invariably, you lose all that’s magicalaboutthefig. ‘Figplus…’istheultimaterestaurant-menu food, but those ingredients that look greatwhile reading ultimately deprive you of the real

experiencewhileeating.In order to really appreciate and enjoy a fig, it

must be fresh and it must be whole. It must beviolated by your knife, when the tight, wrinkledskin issues an imperceptible ‘pop,’ laying bare ariot of seeds, looking to all the world like eggs insome exotic ovary. You must be able to sink yourteeth slowly through those seeds, oozily crushinghundredsoftheminonefellswoop.Youmustinhalethe full but remarkably subtle fig flavor, which istotallymaskedbycompetingingredients.Afigtastesmildly fruity, but it’s all the rest that enchants so.Dusty?Vegetal?Gourd-like?Let’sgoforit…ancient?BIBLICAL?

You won’t be tasting those things in the midstof a persimmons-pomegranate-fig-cilantro-tamarindsalsaonahunkofgrilledswordfish,believeme.

“Ooooh…let’sorderthat.”Onsecondthought, let’snot.E

David Rosengarten is a food writer, wine writer, cookbook author, former host of the award-winning Food Network television show TASTE and a frequent guest on the TODAY show. This article was originally run on thegourmetfoodblog.deandeluca.com/david-rosengarten/

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omPerignonsupposedlyexclaimedthisafterhisfirsttasteofChampagne;

and it is a pretty accurate description ofwhatagoodChampagneorsparklingwineexperience should deliver. Although thelargestvolumeofChampagneandsparklingwinesalesoccursduringthefourth-quarterholiday period, the category maintainsconsistentsalesthroughouttheyear.

Everything that Sparkles Isn't ChampagneChampagne brings to mind thoughts of cel-

ebration, success, love and romance. Thesepleasant associations seem tobeas strongnowas theyeverwere,however,consumersarenowtightening their belts and are picking up eco-nomicalChampagnealternatives likeProseccosand Cavas. These alternatives deliver the samefeel and flavor as Champagnes, but are Italian(Proseccos)orSpanish(Cavas).Onlywinesmadein theChampagneregionofFranceareallowedtocarrytheChampagnename.

“…i am drinking the stars!”

d

by kimberly wallace


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You Are What You Eat

One of the largest grassfed beef farms in the Carolinas, River Taw Farms is committed to breeding Black Angus cattle in a natural, sustainable way. From birth, their cattle receive only their mother’s milk and a 100% grass diet, free of herbicides, pesticides, antibiotics and growth hormones. Eat smart.

126 Cedar Lake Farm Road • Cherryville, NC • rivertawfarm.com Open to the Public • Call for Appointments • 704.435.6937

Promiscuous ProseccoProsecco is Italy’s answer to Champagne. And

as with most things Italian, Prosecco possessescertain flair. Named for the variety of grape it ismade from, theProseccogrape isalsosurprisinglyusedtomakestillwines.WhileCavaismadeintheMéthodeChampenoise,Proseccoisproduceddiffer-ently, thusyieldingawine that tends tobe lighter,bubblierandsweeter.Proseccoistheperfectchoiceforahostofwildandwonderfulcocktails…orasanexcellentafternoonrefresher.HaveyoutriedaniceProseccolately?

Cava Cava CavaCava isSpain’s sparklingwine. It ismade in the

exactsamemethodasChampagne, thuspossessingmanyofthesamecharacteristics.ThegrapesthatgointoCavaarenotChampagnegrapes,but that isoflittleconsequencetothefinalproduct,whichisgen-erallyofexceptionallyhighquality.WhilesomeCavaismaturedforlongerthantherequiredninemonthsit spends on its lees (sediment), finding a vintageCavaisrare,buthavenofear,non-vintageCavaisjustas lovely.Due to thesecondary fermentation in thebottleand theagingon lees,agoodbodyandcom-plexityofflavoraredeveloped. It isnotuncommontofindsimilarcitrus,nuttyandbreadyattributesasfound in themoreexpensiveFrenchcounterpart.EReprinted with permission of KeHE Distributors' Flavours magazine.

Champagne vs. Sparkling Wine

All Champagnes are sparkling wines. However, not all sparkling wines are Champagnes.

The Champagnes we know and love come exclusively from the Champagne region of France and claim the honor of being the most famous of the sparkling wines. Technically, only sparkling wines made in the Champagne region and under the Méthode Champenoise may be referred to a 'Champagne.'

In many European countries and else-where around the world, the name Champagne is legally protected, so people who falsely label their products as Champagne can be prosecuted. The law even protects the name of the process.

Bubbly from all other regions in the world are simply referred to as "sparkling wine." Italy, Spain, Australia, New Zealand and the U.S. give France a run for the money by producing some fantastic sparkling wines, and they are often less expensive.

What Causes the Bubbles?

The bubbles of sparkling wines are formed during a second fermentation

process during which the winemaker takes still wine and adds a few grams of sugar

and a few grams of yeast. This yeast and sugar convert to carbon dioxide

(bubbles) and, of course, alcohol.

This conversion makes for millions of bubbles trapped in a very small space,

sending the pressure soaring to about 80 psi in the typical bottle of sparkling wine. This second fermentation typically occurs

in the actual bottle, but can also take place in the fermentation tank.

Cavas & Proseccos Worth Checking Out

Rondel Cava - $7.99 Gold in color with pleasant aromas of peach, mango and honey, this wine is gently sparkling on the palate. There is a nice balance between fruit flavors and acidity, with a slight amount of sweetness developing into the finish.

Avinyo Cava - $18.99 Bright white fruits combine with toast notes. On the palate the wine is fresh and vibrant.

Marqués de Monistrol Selección Especial Semi-Seco Cava - $9.99 Bright straw in color, this Cava shows fresh aromas of herbs and apples and is full and long on the finish with a fine mousse.

Montelliana Prosecco Extra Dry - $10.99 This extra dry Spumante is obtained through the methode Charmat with fermentation at a controlled temperature. Pale, bright straw-yellow in color, it has the typical aroma of wild flowers and rich, pleasant flavors.

Moinet Brut Prosecco - $12.99 This Brut Prosecco is subtle and refined with hints of honey-suckle and acacia flowers. It is well balanced with bright fruit flavors and crisp acidity.

Carpene Malvolti Prosecco - $18.99 Straw yellow in color with greenish nuances, this Prosecco features a delicate and fruity bouquet with an aroma of apple. Thanks to its typical acidity, its taste is fruity, soft and dry at the same.

Fallston, NC • Only 45 minutes from Charlotte!704.538.9927 • www.bakerbuffalocreek.com

Baker Buffalo Creek Vineyard is a beautiful setting for wine tastings, special occasions and outdoor events. The grounds include a historic

century old farm house, a fully restored mule barn, and the original milk house that now supports the wine making operations and wine tasting

facility. Spend an afternoon with us sampling our unique wines and enjoying the relaxing experience that our vineyard offers.

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tannat: the next big thing?by mark virgili

aybe,maybenot…Thefirstthingthatmost of you are probably asking is

whattheheckisaTannat?Andthatisaverygood question. Most wine geeks, presentcompanyincluded,haveheardofandtastedTannat on a few occasions, but most winedrinkers, from the casual to the very wellinformed,arenotfamiliarwithit.

TannatisagrapewhoseoriginscanbetracedbacktotheBasqueregion.Until fairlyrecently, inthiscountry, ifyouwantedtosampleanywinesproducedfromthisgrape,youwould look forawine fromanobscure littlearea insouthwesternFrancecalledMadiran.Aregionreveredbywineloversforitsredwine,MadirangrowsbetterknownvarietalssuchasCabernetFrancandCabernetSauvignon,but it isknownasoneof the fewplaces in theworld forgrowingandproducingsinglevarietalTannat.

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21ep icurean char lo t te food & wine Nov emb e r • D e c emb e r 2 0 1 0

Thewineitselfhasnottraditionallybeenheldinhighesteem,especiallyhereinthenewworld.Tannat,inthepast,hadbeenalmostundrinkableinitsearlystages.It’sincrediblytannicwhenitisyoung,andhas,inthepast,neededlongtermagingbeforeitwasdrinkable.

Anumberofpeoplehavecomeintoourstore,bask-ing in theglowofanewbornchildandasking, “Whatwine can I get to open for my child when he or sheturns21?”Ilovethisquestion.Firstofall,encouragingalcohol consumptionbeforeyourchild canevenwalkortalk…A+.Ireallyliketheinitiativethereinkeepingthe futureof thebusiness I love intact for futuregen-erations. Secondly, in these difficult economic times,people aren’t looking to spenda tonofmoney. If youwantsomething thatwillage20 to30years that isnotaport,Sauterne,highendBordeauxorBarolo, shopsavvyandgetaTannatfromMadiranorUruguay(yes,I saidUruguay…moreon thata little later).Thatbadboywon’tbereadyforatleast10to15years.

Notonlythat,you’llbestartingyournewborn,oryour-self,onthepathofhealthylivingandlongevityoflife.We’veallheardthebenefitsofdrinkingaglassofredwineaday,butdidyouknowthereareactuallyfewgrapeshealthierinalltheworldthanTannat?TheTannatgrapeisextremelyhigh inpolyphenols, those fantastic littlechemicals thatkeepthehearthealthy.Infact,themortalityrateofpeoplelivinginMadiran,whereTannatisking,isfarhigherthanthatoftheaveragepersoninFrance.

“SouthwestFrance standsout as the place tobe ifyouwant to livea long life,”pointsoutwriterMalcolmSmith.“Inspiteofadietrichinsaturatedfatsfromfoiegras,cassouletandcopiouscheeses,partsofthisregionhavedouble theFrenchaverageofmenaged90plus.Corderputsitdowntothelocalredwines,exemplifiedbythegutsyMadiran,”hecontinues.

Smith is referring to fameddietitianRogerCorder,

author of Red Wine Diet, my own personal Bible. Redwine…diet…comeon,itdoesn’tgetanybetterthanthis!

ConvincedtodrinksomeTannatyet?Iknow,Iknow,whowants towait 20years todrinkadeliciousbottleofredwine.Heck, Idon’twant towait20yearseither.(The truth is, I can’twaitperiod. I inevitablydrinkallthegoodwinethatItrytolaydown).

Solution: You should seriously consider drinkingsomeTannat fromoneof thegreatwinemakingcoun-triesofSouthAmerica.No,notChile,notArgentina,butUruguay.Yesyouheardme(or in thiscase readme)correctly,Uruguay.

One of the great up-and-coming wine countries,Uruguay’smineral richhillsprovide the ideal locationforgrowingTannat,whichwasbroughtoverbyBasqueimmigrantsinthelate19thcentury.

Through modern and creative winemaking tech-niques such as micro oxygenation and removing thepips in the grapes, Uruguay has been incredibly suc-cessful inmakingsofter,moreaccessibleTannatwinesthataremeanttobedrunkyounger.

Uruguay’ssinglevarietalsandblendedTannatwinesareincredible.Complexandstructuredwithdeep,darkfruitflavors,chocolateanddeeptannin,thesewinesareperfectwith,yesyouguessed it,beef.And that’swhattheylikewiththeirTannatinUruguay.

One of my favorite producers, Pisano, does anincredible single varietal Tannat and a Tannat-Merlotblend.Ownedbythreebrotherswhosefamilymigrated

fromItaly,thewinesareincrediblywellbalanced,complex,richandverywellpriced,rangingfrom$10to$13.Theyaretheperfectwinestotaketoimpress friends, familyorwinesnobswho thinktheyknoweverything(Weallknowat leastone,

andunfortunatelyforme,I’musuallythatone).Ultimately,Ihopemyramblingshaveconvinced

youtotrysomeTannat.WillthegrapeeverbeaspopularasCabernetSauvignonoreven theevergrowingpopularMalbec?Probablynot,butneversaynever.Themore importantquestion is,doesTannathave thequalityandcomplexity tostandup to some of the best red wines in the world?Absolutely.

Theysay thatvariety is thespiceof life.ThethingIlovemostaboutwineistheendlessvarietyofflavors,tastesandcomplexitiesitoffers.Tannatisjustfurtherproofthatwineneverhastobeboringor monotonous. Wine is all about variety andspicinguplife.E

The thing I love most about wine is the endless variety of flavors, tastes and

complexities it offers.

20 www.epicureancharlotte.com vo lume 2 • i ssue 6

The Sweezy HouseCreative, Comfortable Regional American

sun 11:00 to 2:00 • wed-fri 11:00 to 2:00 and 4:30 to 9:00 • sat 4:30 to 9:00

www.thesweezyhouse.com • 704.538.00444629 Fallston Road • Fallston, NC

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estledamongtherollinghillsofClevelandCounty is the lovely little Baker Buffalo

Creek Vineyard and Winery on land that hasbeen in Charles and Ann Edwards’ family forover100years.

“Mygreatgrandfatherbeganbuying land in the1840sontheothersideofBuffaloCreek.Mygrandfather,agen-tlemanfarmerandgager,settledthissideofthecreek,andmyfatherdevelopedthelandintoadairyfarmwhenIwasgrowinguphere,”explainsAnn.

ThewineryisnamedfortheBuffaloCreek,whichwindsitswaythroughouttheproperty,andtheBakerfamily.

LocatedinLawndale,NC,justdowntheroadfromShelbyandFallston,thewineryisalaboroflove.Itisdown-homewithasmall tastingroom,a lovelyoutdoorcourtyardanda restoredmilkbarnwherevisitorscanenjoyaglassofwineandwatchtheharvestofthedaybeingcrushed.Eightvarietalsarebeinggrownon10acres.

n

it’s all in the family at baker buffalo creek by michaele ballard

images by ashley blake summerlin


5126ParkRd.704.527.0702•3124EastwayDr.704.568.7933591RiverHwy.(Mooresville)704.660.9855

2127AyrsleyTownBlvd.980.297.7090•www.portofinos-us.com

BENVENUTI!Portofino’s Ristorante Italiano e

Pizzeria, where a passion for great food and a love for quality pay homage

to the glories of the Italian kitchen.

“Best Italian Restaurant in Charlotte”!

In the distance, the fully-restored mule barn andthehistoricBakerhomesteadcanbeseen,makingthewineryanidealsettingforspecialeventslikeweddingsandanniversaries.

Whileitmaybesmall,BakerBuffaloCreekVineyardsand Winery is making a name for itself. In 2009, itgarneredawardsfortwoMuscadinewines—MuleBarnRed and Milk House White—and Granda Red TableWine, ablend, saysCharles.Anotherblend, the2008Between the Rivers, which wasnamedfortheIndiantribesthatonceinhabitedthearea,isalsopopular.

They produce a ChardonnaymadefromestategrownChardonnaygrapes that is light and refreshingaswellasamedium-bodiedbarrel-agedChardonnay.TheirRiesling islight and fruity with a crisp finishwhile the Cabernet Sauvignon is full-bodied withmediumtannins.

BakerBuffaloCreekmakesa tastyTraminette,anAmericanhybrid,butonlyproduces50casesayear.Their Mule Barn Red (a semi-sweet red) and MilkBarnWhite(asemi-sweetscuppernong)arebothlowinalcoholandamongthemostpopular.

“A lot of people are surprised that they like ourMuscadinewines; they’renotassweetasMuscadinewinesusuallyare,”explainsAnn.

Onaverage,20,000poundsofgrapesareharvested

everyfall,saysCharles.“Localfriendsvolunteertohelpwiththeharvest.Somehavecomeforthelastthreetofouryears.Everyonehasbeenveryhelpful inmakingthe winery a success,” explains Ann, who was aschoolteacherfor32years.

“We have a pretty steady stream of traffic year-round,andthetastingroomisalwaysbusyonSunday,”sheexplains.

Foryears,CharlesowneddrycleaningbusinessesinGastonia,butsoldthebusinessesafteraheartattack in2001.WhilerecoveringandvisitingoneoftheirdaughtersandherchildreninCali-fornia,hediscovered thewineriesofSonomaandNapa.

ThecoupledecidedthattheBakerlandwouldbesuitableforacropofgrapesandbeganeducating them-

selvesaboutgrowinggrapesandmakingwine.In2003,theyplantedtheirfirstacreofChardonnaygrapes;itwassuchasuccessthattheyplantedanothernineacres.

CharlesandAnndoalmosteverythingthemselves:Charlesharveststhegrapesandcrushesthemwiththehelpofastudent;Annisinchargeofthetastingroomandhelpswiththewinemaking.

“We both took enology (winemaking) at SurryCommunityCollege,”sheexplains.DaughterKatherineandson-in-lawJasonhelpwithmarketing,festivalsandspecialevents.

“We meet a lot of interesting people. It’s some-where interesting forpeople tobring theircompanywhen they visit,” she adds. “We have fun, and it’sa chance forus towork togetherandpreserve thehistoryofthefarm,”addsCharles.

Mostof theircustomersfindthewinery throughmaps that identifyNorthCarolinawineries. “Peoplecomefromeverywhere,”Annsays.Thewineryalsosuppliesfourretailoutletswiththeirwines.

Despitetheirsuccess,theEdwards’don’tplanongettingmuch larger. “Wewant tokeep it smallandhomey.Peoplecanbringapicnicandspendtheday.Alotofbridgeclubsandbridalandanniversarypartieshavegatheringshere.”

Married45years,theEdwards’havetwodaughters—one in Gastonia and another in Marin County, CA,plus fourgranddaughtersranging inage fromeightto15.During thesummers, the familyhelpsoutatthewinery.

“The grandkids seem to be really interested inthe winemaking. Hopefully we’ll be able to keep itinthefamily.”EBaker Buffalo Creek Vineyard & Winery is located at 3521 Fallston-Waco Road in Lawndale, NC. They can be reached at 704-538-9927. The winery is open every day—Thursday-Saturday from 12 pm to 5 pm and Sunday 2 pm to 5 pm. Hours aren’t specified Monday through Wednesday, and tastings are by appointment only. Visit www.bakerbuffalocreek.com for more information.

“A lot of people are surprised that they like our Muscadine wines; they’re

not as sweet as Muscadine wines usually are.”

Baker Buffalo Creek Wines Are Available at the Following Local Retailers

The Bottle Shoppe 174 W. Main Ave. Gastonia, NC 28052 704-810-9463

Smoke on the Square 5 E. Marion St. Shelby, NC 28150 704-406-9246

Angels Consignments 101 E. Virginia Ave. Bessemer City, NC 28016 704-629-4586

Copper’s Wine Cellar (inside Piccolo Antique Mall) 34 N. Main St., Booth 39 Belmont, NC 28012 704-964-8811

T R A N Q U I L C O U R T2 8 2 O S E L W Y N AV E • 7 O 4 . 3 3 3 . 1 2 1 2

N O W O P E N

c ean catch sh marketTurning seafood lovers into fishianados everyday.

follow us on:


ypically,Americanshavegiven littlethoughttowherethatthicksteakon

the grill came from. That is, until thesubjectofbacteria,hormonesandanti-bioticsinourfoodsupplypermeatedthenews.Now,wearetakingacloserlookat exactlywhatweareeating,how theanimals are raised and how we mightbeaffected.

The growing farm to table philosophy is notonly about supporting local farmers, it’s an efforttostaveoffdigestivedisorders,coloncancer,evenheart disease that, in part, are being attributed towhatwe ingest.

Just 45 minutes from Charlotte in Cherryville,NC, River Taw Farms is raising natural, grassfedBlack Angus beef that are given no grains, hor-mones or antibiotics. Not only is it healthier, butthe lean, red beef taste is reminiscent of the ‘realbeef’weenjoyeddecadesago.

where’s the beef?river taw farms’ grassfed beef is the real thing

t

by michaele ballardimages by ashley blake summerlin

28 Nov emb e r • D e c emb e r 2 0 1 0 ep icurean char lo t te food & wine

The farmstartedwithaherdof300youngcowsand 15 bulls rated at the top of the U.S. RegisteredBlack Angus herd. Today, the farm has almost 900BlackAnguscattle,withthefirst twogenerationsofoffspringallbrednaturally. Importantly, the farm iscertified by the American Grassfed Association andisAnimalWelfareApproved.

“From the time they areborn, [the cows] are raisedstrictlyontheirmothers’milkandgrass.Theygrazeinpas-turesofgrassandcloverthatare rotated weekly,” explainsownerPatrickO’Leary.

“Our cer tifications arerigorous and ensure that wefeed our animals only grassand treat them humanely,”saysMariaZimmerley,officemanager.

FormerlyknownasCedarLakeFarm,RiverTawFarmsislocatedatthecornerof Cleveland and Gaston counties on 1,700 acres,making it one of the largest grassfed beef farms intheCarolinas.Thelandisbeingdividedinto15-acregrazing pastures. An ample supply of hay is baledandstoredfor thewintermonthsordrought.

“The cows eat constantly, spreading the manure

andreplenishingthesoil,whichcreatesasustainableenvironment. It’s the perfect process for a herdthis size,” explains Charlie Jones, who managesthe farm with his son Travis. “We also make surethe cattle have minimal human interaction, whichlowersstress.”

Since O’Leary purchasedthelandthatisnowRiverTawFarms,hehasinstalledmilesof new fencing, built shel-ters and installed automatedfreshwater fountains. Goneare the dirty troughs of old;these cattle drink fresh wellwater—a large ball floats atthetopofeachwatertank,sowhen a cow presses the ballwithitsnose,thecleanwaterflowsuparoundtheball.

At one time, the rollinghillsaroundClevelandcounty

were filled with farmland, much of it owned by theBeam family. But when Dewey Beam passed awayin 1995, all 2,000 acres were dispersed. (See article about the farm history and the area on page 32.)

CharlieJones,whohadworkedforthefarmfor30years,wasbeginningtolosehopethatitwouldeverbe farmland again. “I was worried that a developer

“From the time they are born, [the cows] are raised strictly on their

mothers’ milk and grass. They graze in pastures of grass and clover that

are rotated weekly.”

“The cows eat constantly, spreading the manure and replenishing the soil, which

creates a sustainable environment. It’s the perfect process for a herd this size.”

29vo lume 2 • i ssue 6 www.ep icureancharlotte.com


wouldcomeinandbuy itallup,”hesays.But then, in2007,O’Leary, a commanding Irish-

manwitha thickbrogue,sauntered intohis life.O’Leary, 53, spent his summers growing up on

hisuncle’sfarminWaterford,Ireland.HediscoveredtheCherryvilleareawhilelookingforfarmlandclosetohisCharlottehomewherehehaslivedsince2001.He fell in love with the rollinghillsandthe land’shistory.

“Those summers I workedon the farm—from ages 12 to21—were the happiest times ofmy life,” he recalls. He is cur-rently the Chief Financial Offi-cerofSPX,a$5billionFortune500 company, whose productsinclude equipment for the foodandbeverage industry.

In 2008, O’Lear y boughtthe first 221-acre parcel, thenanother238acres.Hehassincemadeover20purchasesandrestored80percentoftheoriginal farm.

River Taw Farms’ registered cattle hail mostlyfrom Yon Family Farms inRidge Spring, SC. BlackAngus cattle, which originated in Aberdeen, Scot-land,areknownforspecifictraits:easyweightgain,

birthing that rarely needs human assistance andgood dispositions. They are also naturally polled,meaning they have no horns, which makes themsafer toworkwith.

Unlikecattlethatarefattenedwithgrainforquickslaughter,O’Leary’sBlackAngus,whichweighabout75 pounds at birth, don’t go to market for 18 to 20

monthswhentheyweigharound900 pounds. Grain fed cattle,typically kept in feedlots andgivenhormonesandantibiotics,gotomarket faster.

“Grain is simply not whatcattle were meant to eat,” saysO’Leary. “Cattle are ruminants.Their low acid digestive systemhas four chambers; they aremeant to constantly regurgitateandchew.Whencowseatgrain,it causes digestive problems.We’re in no hurry to finish our

cattle, so we don’t need antibiotics and hormones,”heexplains.

“BlackAngushaveahighfertilityrate;it’sestimatedthat almost every cow will have an offspring,” saysJones.Fifteenbullshaveturnedoutabout20calveseachwiththecoreherdof326youngcows.

When the cows mature, River Taw Farms trans-ports them to Mays Meats in Taylorsville, NC, forhumaneslaughter.

“We take them in smallgroups.Wenevercrowdthem, and there is never one by itself, which isstressful for them,”explainsZimmerley. “Wedeliverthemourselves.”

MaysMeats is alsoanAnimalWelfareApprovedoperation. “At slaughter, the animals are taken oneby one through a curved hallway so they can’t seewhat’s happening,” Zimmerley explains. “The meathangs for twoweeksand is thenpackaged, labeled,frozenandreturnedtothefarmforsale.”

RiverTawFarmssellssomeof itsgrassfedcattlewholesaletoProffittFamilyFarmsinKingsMountainand Hickory Nut Gap Farm in Asheville. A retailstoreislocatedonthepropertywherethepubliccancome and select beef, which is only sold in whole,halforone-quarterquantities.

“A 900-pound animal should yield about 450poundsofmeatwhendressed,”saysO’Leary.“Thirty-one percent is steaks, 31 percent is roasts and 38percentisgroundbeefandstewmeat,whichwewillsellfor$4.99apound.Awholecowwilllastafamilyayear andcan remainvacuumpacked frozen for atleast that time,”hesays.

Best of all, the meat is a vibrant red, very lean

and tastes like the beef many of us ate in the 60sand70s.

“Typically,peopleeatsmallerportionsofgrassfedbeefbecause ithasabetter tasteand less fat,”addsJones.

“Whenyoubuybeefthatislocallyraised,mothersknow exactly what their children are eating,”O’Learyexplains.

As he surveys his herd of shiny Black Anguscattle,thebeautifulgreenpasturesandthecalvesjustweaned from theirmothers,O’Learyhas theexcite-mentofayoungboyworkinghisfirstsummeronthefarm.“I intendtodothis full timewhenIretire.”

“These are dedicated people. It’s a caring andresponsible farm, and we all have primary concernfor the animals. There won’t be another farm likeours; we are truly passionate about what we turnout—taste itandsee foryourself!”E

“Those summers I worked on the

farm—from ages 12 to 21—were the

happiest of my life,” O’Leary recalls.

126 cedar lake farm road • cherryville, nc704.435.6937 • www.rivertawfarm.com

[email protected] to the public • call for appointment

river taw farms

l to r: manager charlie jones, owner patrick o'leary

��vo lume 2 • i ssue 6 www.ep icureancharlotte.com

places to go people to see

november december 13 2nd Annual Low Country Bash EnjoyCornhole,livemusicbyEasyPickin’s,a Lowcountryboil,friedgreentomatoes,beerand wineattheCharlotteTrolleyPowerhouseMuseum from6pmto10pm,allwhilesupportingan irreplaceablepartofCharlotte’sheritage. www.charlottetrolley.org

19 17th Annual Beaujolais Festival Celebrate‘Lespremièrevendanges,’orfirstgrape harvestoftheyearattheLevineMuseumofthe NewSouth!Tastethe2010BeaujolaisNouveau andsampleotherwinesfromtheBeaujolaisregion. charmeck.org/city/charlotte/cic/

24 WBT Holiday on Ice Begins Iceskateunderthestars,drinkhotchocolate andcelebratethemerrimentoftheholidaysat TheGreeninUptown. www.wbt.com/wbtholidayonice

25 Carolinas’ Thanksgiving Day Parade Atraditionsince1947,theUptownparade, sponsoredbyBelk,officiallyannouncesand celebratesthebeginningoftheholidayseason. www.carrouselparade.org

03 Palate to Palette JointheContemporariesoftheMcCollCenter forVisualArtforanightofart,wineandfood atthe3rdAnnualPalatetoPalette,whichbrings togetherthebestinwineandart. 704.332.5535 • www.mccollcenter.org

07 22nd Annual Second String Santa Holiday Party OneofthelargestcharitableeventsinCharlotte, thisannualeventraisesmoneyanddelivers thousandsofgiftsandschoolsuppliestoneedy childreninourarea. www.secondstringsanta.org

11 Total Wine Tasting CelebratetheholidayswithChampagneand sparklingwineswiththefriendlyfolksatTotal Wine–ParkRoad. 704.295.9292 • www.totalwine.com

31 First Night Charlotte 2011 Ringinthenewyearwithmusicians,dancers, actorsandartistsfrom3pmuntilmidnightin theheartofUptown. www.firstnightcharlotte.com

Agriculture

For decades, Cleveland County was farmland. One of the largest parcels of land was the 2,000-acre Cedar Lake Farm (Lawndale), owned by the Beam family. It was both a dairy and cattle farm. When Dewey Beam died in 1995, the farm was dispersed within six months.

Textile Mills

In the late 1800s, the textile industry was established in Cherryville. The first cotton mill was incorporated in 1891, and soon after, three more mills had opened. By the turn of the century, it had become an industrial community with 13 mills. All of these mills have since closed.

Trucking

In 1932, a trucking company known as Carolina Freight Carriers began operating to truck vegetables to Florida. It eventually became one of the largest freight lines in the nation. In 1995, after operating for more than 60 years, it was purchased by the Arkansas Best Trucking Company, and operations were moved out of North Carolina.

Beam Truck Museum

Housed in Cherryville’s original gas station where Carolina Freight had its humble beginnings, the Beam Truck Museum is 7,500 square feet of vintage trucking memorabilia from the last seven decades. It has been designated one of the area’s top attractions, with visitors coming from all over the U.S. and foreign countries.

Local Color

Learn about the legend of RedBone Willy with a visit to RedBone Willy’s Trading Co.. Eat in the café, stay at the B&B and check out all the fun stuff. Located at the intersection of NC Highway 18 and NC Highway 27.

Horse Farming

In the late 1990s, roughly 230 acres of the then Cedar Lake Farm was a nationally recognized, state-of-the-art equestrian breeding facility that focused on halter horses. The farm was home to multi-million dollar stallions like “Noble Tradition,” a four-time world champion halter stallion, and “Mr. Illusive.” The venture was not successful, however.

Today, the facilities, including equipment, hay barns, stabling, exercise facilities and paddocks for over 100 horses are located on the land that is now River Taw Farms. It is being offered as training ground for the North Carolina Caisson Unit and their color guard, and is home to several rescued Thoroughbred horses.

Cleveland County Points of InterestAt one time, the rolling hills of Cleveland County were all farmland. Its small towns were filled with textile mills, and life was good for a long time. Then came the demise of the mills and of Carolina Freight (once one of the area’s largest employers), which one local described as a ‘body blow’ to the area.

With River Taw Farms (grassfed beef near Cherryville), Buffalo Baker Creek Vineyard & Winery (a family-owned operation in Lawndale) and The Sweezy House Restaurant and Bakery (in Fallston) all being featured in this issue, it’s interesting to look back at the area’s history.

Only 45 minutes from Charlotte, it's the perfect area for a day trip or overnight stay.

32 Nov emb e r • D e c emb e r 2 0 1 0 ep icurean char lo t te food & wine

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opening night at taco mac

chilling on the patio at common market

lefttoright:MarkLane,FedoraPatterson,JamesBlack,ErinLane,

JessicaCarter

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exploring french wines at café monte

lefttoright:AngiePacker(TryonDist.),LaverneFesperman,ButchHuckabee(sitting),CharlesNiemeyer(sitting),AlexHall

enjoying music and dancing at od pavilion

lefttoright:DeborahTucker,SuellenSkach,LarryEstes,BenetMcSwaim,

AbieCarrenger" "

east meck reunion at villa antonio―south blvd.lefttoright:RosalieSpaniel,BobDowdy,JackRosenblatt,LindaSeligman,RichardCarroll

wtvi – chef’s wife premier

lefttoright:ChefTomCondron,ChefPhilAnderson,BonnieJones,

ChefDavidSlater

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lefttoright:VickyMay,CathyConnelly,TammyProvance

donna bise

scene around town

34 www.ep icureancharlotte.com vo lume 2 • i ssue 6 ��ep icurean char lo t te food & wine Nov emb e r • D e c emb e r 2 0 1 0

36 Nov emb e r • D e c emb e r 2 0 1 0 ep icurean char lo t te food & wine ��vo lume 2 • i ssue 6 www.ep icureancharlotte.com

ingredients:•6oz.semi-sweet chocolatechips•12eggyolks

•4oz.sweetMarsalawine•3½oz.granulatedsugar•8oz.heavycream

chocolate zabaglionebrio tuscan grille

Meltchocolateinamixingbowloversimmeringwater.Inanothermixingbowl,whisktogethereggyolks,Marsalaandsugar.Placeeggbowloversimmeringwaterandwhiskuntilmixtureispaleyellowandfrothyandmixturefallsbackonitselfinthickribbons.Youmayuseanelectrichandmixerforthis.Itshouldtakeapproximatelyeightminutes,scrapingsidesofbowlandremovingoccasionallyfromtheheatiftheeggsgettoohot.Takecarenottooverheat,ortheeggyolkswillcookandthemixturewillappearcurdled.Removefromheatandfoldinreservedwarmchocolate.Placebowlinfreezertocool.Inanothermixingbowl,whiskcreamuntilsoftpeaksform.Gentlyfoldwhippedcreamintocooledchocolatemixture.Servesfour.

tasty treats for the holidays

ingredients:•2oz.TY◆KULiqueur• .25oz.premiumtequila•Splashofdietcitrussoda•Squeezeoflemon

ty◆ku skinny ritaty◆ku premium liqueurs

PourTY◆KULiqueurandtequilaintoashakeroverice.Squeezeanddroplemonin.Shakecontentsvigorouslyandstrainintoasalt-rimmedmartiniglass.

Under100calories!

local flavor

Hardtobelieveayearhasgoneby—The Liberty Gastropubiscelebratingtheirfirstyearanniversary.Headoverthereandhelpthemcelebrate!704.332.8830 • www.thelibertycharlotte.com

Zink. American Kitchen hasmadethemovetoSouthPark.ReopenedinthestylishVillageatSouthPark,locatedadjacenttoSouthParkMall,Zinkbringsbacktothetablesomeoldfavoritesalongwithnew,innovativedishesfromExecutiveChefScottWallen.704.909.5500 • harpersgroup.com/zink.asp

TheresultsfromtheSummer2010Charlotte Restaurant Week (CRW)arein.Duringthe10dayCRWfromJuly16-25,2010,the88participatingrestaurantsservedapproximately80,000mealsforanestimatedeco-nomicimpactofover$3.76million,basedonanaverage.

Portofino’s Ristorante Italiano e Pizzeria hasanewwebpage.Besuretovisitthematwww.portofinos-us.com.704.527.0702

Vapiano,Harvest Moon Grille,Halcyon: Flavors from the Earth,Midnight DinerandVida haveallopenedUptown.

Sole Spanish GrilleonEastBoulevardhasclosedafteranunsuccessfulleaserenegotiation.PartnerPhongLuongnotesthatthey’llbemovingseveralofSole’sfavoritedishestotheirZen Asian Fusion restaurant,justtwoblocksaway.704.358.9688 • www.zenasianfusion.com

Paco’s Tacos & Tequila isnowopenforbusinessattheSpecialtyShopsontheParkinSouthPark.www.pacostacosandtequila.com 704.716.8226

Total Wine & More,America’swinesuperstore,announcestheopeningofitsnewestCharlotteretaillocationinthePromenadeonProvidence.704.841.1212 • www.totalwine.com

AbigwelcomeforChuck Richards!ACharlotteWine&FoodWeekendfounderandlongtimeboardmember,Richardshasbeennamedasthefestival’snewdirector.Hebringsalmost50yearsofretailexperienceasformerownerandoperatorofReid’sFineFoods.www.growlerspourhouse.com

Carmella’s Pizzeria onCarmelRoad,Eddie’s Place-BallantyneandMaddi’s Southern Bistro atBirkdaleVillagehaveclosed.

Petit PhilippespecialtyshophasopenedatTranquilCourtinMyersPark.Offeringcustomersover250bottlesofwineaswellasfilledbonbons/pralinesandmoldedchocolates,it’sawelcomeadditiontotheneighborhood.

LindaSeligman’ssisterpassedawaypeacefullyOctober11,2010.OurcondolencesgoouttoLindaandherfamily.

Epicurean Charlotte Food and Wine magazine hasgonedigital!Visitusatwww.epicureancharlotte.com forup-to-dateinformationoneventsandnewsaroundtown,andbesuretofollowusonFacebookandTwitter!

through the grapevine

38 www.ep icureancharlotte.com vo lume 2 • i ssue 6 ��ep icurean char lo t te food & wine Nov emb e r • D e c emb e r 2 0 1 0

dilworth/ southend

Brixx Wood Fired PizzaBrixxisafun,friendlyneighborhoodrestau-rantthatservesthebestbrick-ovenpizzasaround!Brixxalsoofferssandwiches,pastas,saladsanddesserts—there’ssomethingforeveryone.VisitBrixxinUptown,Foxcroft(SouthPark),DilworthandBlakeney.www.brixxpizza.com

The Common MarketTheCommonMarketisyourstopforeclectic,neighborhoodconvenience.Amoderntwistonthegeneralstore,TheCommonMarketoffersfreshdelisandwiches,coldbeer,knicks&knacksandagreatselectionofwineforeverypricerange.704.332.7782 • www.commonmarketclt.com

The DeckTheDeckisthefirstofitskind,offeringfreshseafoodandhandcraftedexoticcocktails.Featuringdailyfishspecials,oystersonthehalfshell,handcutfrenchfries,homemadefrozencustardandfreshsqueezedjuices.704.332.9292 • www.thedeckoneast.com

The LibertyThisAmericanGastropubfeaturesanaffordablemenu,20craftbeersontap,30winesbytheglassandCharlotte’smostcomfortablebar.Jointhemforlunch,brunch,dinner,latenightorin-between.704.332.8830 • www.thelibertycharlotte.com

Zen Asian FusionZenshowcasesthefinestcontemporaryAsian–infusedcuisinewithaEuropeanstyle.AneclecticmenuofAsian-influenceddishesfeaturesplatesbothsmall(tapas)andlarge,allgearedtobeshared.704.358.9688 • www.zenasian.com

southpark

Barrington’s RestaurantBruceMoffettbringsculinarysophisticationtotheareawithhishighlyimaginativecuisine.Mealsareservedinanintimateatmospherebyskilledserverswhoknowthewinelistaswellastheydotheirownnames.704.364.5755 www.barringtonsrestaurant.com

Brio Tuscan GrillBriooffersitsguests‘LaDolceVita.’Thefoodisallsimplypreparedusingthefinestandfreshestingredients.Themenu’semphasisisonprimesteaksandchops,homemadepastaspecialtiesandflatbreadspreparedinanauthenticItalianwood-burningoven.704.571.4214 • www.brioitalian.com

Café Monte French BistroThisFrenchbakeryandbistrohasadelec-tabledishforeveryone,offeringFrenchfarealongwithfreshlybakedArtisanbreads,paindecroissantsandcrêpes.Openeverydayforbreakfast,lunchanddinner.704.552.1116 • www.cafemonte.net

Dolcetto Wine RoomDolcettoWineRoomischicandtrendy.Enjoywinesbytheglassorbottle,alongwithartisanalcheeses,appetizers,desserts,saladsandsandwiches.Outdoorpatioseatingistheplacetowatchthecrowds.704.295.1111 • www.dolcettowineroom.com

Georges BrasserieGeorgesBrasserieisavibrantFrenchbrasserieblendingtraditionandmoderncuisinelocatedinPiedmontTownCenter.Therestaurantfeaturesamaindiningroom,rawbar,patioseating,barandprivatedining.980.219.7409 • www.georgesbrasserie.com

ballantyne/stonecrest

The Blue TajLocatedinBallantyneVillage,TheBlueTajisasiblingrestauranttoCopperRestaurantinDilworth.Itofferseclectic,modernIndiancuisine.704.369.5777 • www.thebluetaj.com

D’Vine Wine CaféCasual,relaxedenvironmentwithtwoseparateloungeareasfeaturing35winesbytheglassandover500winesforretail.Themenuisfocusedongourmetsmallplatesatreasonableprices.704.369.5050 • www.dvinewinecafe.com

Johnny’s Red BowlFeaturingafull-servicebarandAsian-inspireddishes,eachdishishandcraftedandpreparedwiththefinestandfreshestingredients.Boastsacreate-your-ownstir-frybarandaward-winningSushibar.704.814.7777 • www.redbowlusa.com

Miró Spanish GrillMiróoffersthebestofSpain.Relaxafterworkwithanarrayoftapasandsangria,orsettleinforafeastofsteaks,chickenandfreshseafood,accompaniedbyabottleofRiojafromtheirexcellentwinelist.704.540.6364 • www.mirospanishgrill.com

The Q ShackTheQShackistheoneplacewherefolksfromalloverfeelrightathome.Thesecretliesintheirspecialrecipesandon-sitebar-bequepits,whereallofthemeatsareslowcookedandsmokedtoperfection.704.542.5959 • www.qshackclt.com

Rudy’s Italian Restaurant & BarThisneighborhoodItalianrestaurantboastsacasualatmosphere,friendlypricesforfoodandbarandgreatfood.704.544.4949 • www.rudyscharlotte.com

plaza/ midwood

The Common MarketTheCommonMarketisyourstopforeclectic,neighborhoodconvenience.Amoderntwistonthegeneralstore,TheCommonMarketoffersfreshdelisandwiches,coldbeer,knicks&knacksandagreatselectionofwineforeverypricerange.704.334.5991 • www.commonmarketclt.com

park road/woodlawn

Portofino’s Italian RestaurantGreatfoodpayshomagetothegloriesoftheItaliantableatPortofino’s.WithfourCharlotte-arealocations,theypridethem-selvesoncreatingmenusinspiredbyatimelesspassionforfood.704.527.0702 • portofinos-us.com

Good Food on MontfordWithafocusontheextensiveuseoflocalandorganicproductscombinedwithcom-fortablyhumbledécor,theresultcanonlybedescribedasGoodFoodonMontford.704.525.0881 • www.goodfoodonmontford.com

Total Wine & More–Park RoadThewinesuperstoreoffersahugeselectionoffinewinesatdynamiteprices.Choosefromeverydaywinesorsomeof thewineworld’smostreveredlabels.Manyselectionsofbeersandgift itemsarealsoavailable.Tastingsandclassesareoffered.704.295.9292 • www.totalwine.com

midtown/ myers park

Clean Catch Fish MarketThis‘European-style,’high-endfishmarketspecializesinresponsiblyfishedandcaughtseafoodunlikeanythingshop-persareusedtoseeingingrocerystores.Winepairingsandweeklyclassesonhowtoprepareandcookthefishareoffered.704.333.1212

Deejai Thai RestaurantEachdishatDeejaiispreparedwithfreshingredientsbyThaichefsusingrecipespasseddownfromgenerations.WineandbeeriscarefullyselectedtocomplimentthespicesandsaucesinThaifood.704.999.7884 • www.deejaithai.com

Pasta & ProvisionsCharlotte’sprimoItaliangourmetfoodstorefeatureshomemadepasta,sauces,oliveoils,importedanddomesticcheeses,etc.,andahugeselectionofItalianwines.704.364.2622 • www.pastaprovisions.com

Terra RestaurantThisintimatebistro’scasualatmosphereisperfectfordiningwithfriends,co-workersandfamily.Thecreativemenufeaturesawidearrayofgreatselections,alwaysmadefromthehighestqualityingredients.704.332.1886 • www.terracharlotte.com

university/ matthews

Total Wine & More–MatthewsThewinesuperstoreoffersahugeselectionoffinewinesatdynamiteprices.Choosefromeverydaywinesorsomeof thewineworld’smostreveredlabels.Manyselectionsofbeersandgift itemsarealsoavailable.Tastingsandclassesareoffered.704.849.2022 • www.totalwine.com

Total Wine & More–UniversityThewinesuperstoreoffersahugeselectionoffinewinesatdynamiteprices.Choosefromeverydaywinesorsomeof thewineworld’smostreveredlabels.Manyselectionsofbeersandgift itemsarealsoavailable.Tastingsandclassesareoffered.704.714.1040 • www.totalwine.com

7822 Fairview RoadCharlotte, NC 28226704.364.5755 barringtonsrestaurant.com

Good Food on Montford 1701 Montford Drive Charlotte, NC 28209704.525.0881goodfoodonmontford.com

Committed to LocalCommitted to Independence

Committed to Excellence

A Charlotte Tradition...

New in Town...

A Moffett Restaurant Group, LLC

cleveland county

Baker Buffalo Creek Vineyard & WineryBakerBuffaloCreekVineyardisabeautifulsettingforwinetastings,specialoccasionsandoutdoorevents.You’reinvitedtospendanafternoonwiththemsamplingtheiruniquewinesandenjoyingtherelaxingexperiencethattheirvineyardoffers.704.538.9927 • www.bakerbuffalocreek.com

River Taw FarmsRiverTawFarms’grassfedbeefoperationsarelocatedinCherryville,NC,about45minuteswestofCharlotte.Frombirth,theircattlereceiveonlytheirmother’smilkanda100percentgrassdiet,freeofherbicides,pesticides,antibioticsandgrowthhormones.Theyarerotatedweeklytofreshpasturesandneverheldinconfinement.OneofthelargestgrassfedbeeffarmsintheCarolinas,theyarecommittedtobreedingBlackAnguscattleinanatural,sustainableway.704.435.6937 • www.rivertawfarm.com

The Sweezy House Restaurant ExperienceupscaledininginalaidbackatmosphereatTheSweezyHouse.Comeasyouare,andbesuretotrythespecialsoftheday.Knownfortheirsteaks,freshseafoodandin-housedesserts,theseguysknowwhatthey’redoingandcanproveit.Just45minutesfromCharlotte,theyalsodocatering.704.538.0044 • www.thesweezyhouse.com

ripe for the picking

4720 Piedmont Row Drive | Suite 150 | Charlotte, NC 28210 | phone: 704-571-4214 or 888-45-BRAVO | www.BrioItalian.com

545-b providence road • charlotte, nc 28207www.terracharlotte.com • 704.332.1886

TERRA

LunchMonday - Fr iday: 11:30-2:00

DinnerSunday - Thursday: 5:00-10:00Fr iday & Saturday: 5:00-11:00

Histor ic Dilwor t h1716 Kenilwor t h Avenue

704.358.9688zenasia n fusion.com

Stonecrest at Piper Glen704.540.7374

mirospa nishgr ille.com

LunchMonday - Fr iday: 11:30-2:00

DinnerSunday - Thursday: 5:00-10:00Fr iday & Saturday: 5:00-11:00

Documents

where’s the beef?...GRA ND OPE I ! South Charlotte Promenade on Providence (704) 841-1212 Charlo te Park Town Village (704) 295-9292 Charlotte-University Grand Promenade Phase II