First kind of current: 1.Surface currents : move on or near
surface of ocean Friction between wind blown air and the water
surface causes the water to move Controlled by wind belts, earths
rotational effect and location of continents
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What direction do most currents NORTH of the equator move?
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CLOCKWISE!
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What direction do most currents SOUTH of the equator move?
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COUNTERCLOCKWISE!
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Western side of ocean has warm currents traveling from equator
Eastern side of ocean has cool currents moving toward equator
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Examples of warm water currents: Gulf Stream Brazil Examples of
cold water currents: California current Canary current
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Upwelling the rise of cold water from deeper layers to replace
warmer surface water. brings greater concentrations of dissolved
nutrients, such as nitrates and phosphates, to the ocean
surface.
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Second kind of current: 2. Deep density currents : cold, dense
currents that flow very slowly beneath surface of ocean occurs when
denser seawater moves towards an area of less dense seawater
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In the deep ocean, denser water around the Poles sinks and
travels along the ocean floor toward the equator. At the same time,
less dense water at the equator rises and moves towards the poles
along the surface. These two events form a continuous cycle that
circulate ocean water.
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Waves Kelly Slater
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Wave Generating forces WIND TIDES Sometimes Earthquakes
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Wavelength Distance from one crest to another
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Wave Height Difference between crest to trough
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Period: The time it takes one wavelength to pass a given
point
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Formula Speed= wavelength period
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Test your knowledge What is the speed of a wave 24 meters long
with a period of 4 seconds?
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Applying the formula Speed = 24 meters= 6 meters/sec 4 sec
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Height of wind-formed waves depends on 3 things 1.Length of
time the wind blows 2.Speed of wind 3.FETCH: length of open water
over which the wind blows in a single direction
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Swells Group of long, rolling waves all about the same size
Come at regular intervals
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As waves approach shore, the water is so shallow that they
touch bottom. This happens at a depth of one-half the wavelength.
As the wave scrapes bottom, the lower part of wave slows down and
upper par moves ahead. The crest falls over and breaks onto the
beach.
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Breaking Waves
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MAVERICKS
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Waves and the shore: Breakers foamy mass of water that washes
onto shore Undertow Long shore current Tsunamis Rip current strong
surface currents that flow away from the beach; hazard to
swimmers
