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Plant Diagnostics, p. 4
Noteworthy News, p. 6
Diggings, p. 9
Design Charrette, p. 11
Tree Care Tips, p. 12
Vegetable of the Month: Okra, p. 13
Traveling Gardener, p. 15
WHAT’S INSIDE THE APRIL 2017 ISSUE
Aloe in Bloom - Desert Botanical GardenPhoto by Karen Sankman
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 2
The University of Arizona is an equal opportunity, affirmative action institution. The University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, veteran status, or sexual orientation in its programs and activities. Persons with a disability may request a reasonable accommodation, such as a sign language interpreter, by contacting Jo Cook, Program Coordinator, at [email protected] 602-827-8211. Requests should be made as early as possible to allow time to arrange the accommodation. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Jeffrey C. Silvertooth, Associate Dean & Director, Economic Development & Extension, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, The University of Arizona.
Editor: KELLY OBIADI | [email protected]. Editors: MEG PATERSON & KAREN SANKMANArt Director: SHERRY LAND
Website Questions: JO COOK | 602.827.8211
Roots & Shoots is published monthly by and for Maricopa County Master Gardeners and printed under the direction of The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Maricopa County Office.
MAIN OFFICE
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension602.827.82004341 E Broadway RdPhoenix, AZ 85040Monday–Friday 8:00 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Attention Writers!Please submit your articles for the May issue to Kelly Obiadi at: [email protected] by April 15.
Attention Photographers!You’ve got some great photos and Roots & Shoots would like to give you a platform for sharing them. Send us a few of your best shots and they could be included in our photo gallery (as space allows) or even featured on the upcoming cover! Each month the editorial staff will select from photos taken by Master Gardeners and submitted during the previous month. We want to see your best gardening-related photos: vegetables, flowers, trees, insects, birds, animals, people, projects, events, landscapes, décor, etc.
Send your photos along with a brief description to [email protected] by the 25th of each month to be considered for the upcoming issue.
Show us what’s going on in your gardening world!
Master Gardener Jen Donovan: First place"Sounds of Spring - Stretch Design” category
Signs of Spring Flower Show, Scottsdale Garden Club
Photo by Meg Paterson
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 3
The University of Arizona is an equal opportunity, affirmative action institution. The University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, veteran status, or sexual orientation in its programs and activities. Persons with a disability may request a reasonable accommodation, such as a sign language interpreter, by contacting Jo Cook, Program Coordinator, at [email protected] 602-827-8211. Requests should be made as early as possible to allow time to arrange the accommodation. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Jeffrey C. Silvertooth, Associate Dean & Director, Economic Development & Extension, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, The University of Arizona.
STAFF
KELLY YOUNG Assistant Agent, ANR/Urban Horticulture602.827.8219, [email protected]
REBECCA SENIOR Assistant in Extension, Ornamental Horticulture602.827.8276, [email protected]
JO COOK Program Coordinator602.827.8211, [email protected] *ON TEMPORARY LEAVE
YVONNE COOPERProgram Coordinator602.827.8239, [email protected]
ANGELA ENTZELProgram Coordinator, Food Access602.827.8212, [email protected]
SHARON DEWEYSpeakers Bureau602.827.8209, [email protected]
MARINA ACOSTAProgram Coordinator, School & Community Gardens 602.827.8221, [email protected]
LINDA WADEDepartmental Secretary602.827.8253, [email protected]
MASTER GARDENER CONTACT LIST
Ambassadors:PAULA PUTAO623.486.2356, [email protected] BONNIE NEWHOFF602.943.1843, [email protected]
Design Charrette:SUE LANKER480.947.0552, [email protected] SEIFERT602.494.9307, [email protected] MALDONADO602.573.2410, [email protected]
Help Desk:DON SUTTON480.694.5279, [email protected] DONNA LORCH602.418.5503, [email protected]
Master Gardener and Public Calendar:KAREN SANKMAN480.893.1066, [email protected]
Technical Committee:CARRIE GOODE480.457.8840, [email protected] CHERYL SCHMIDTKE480.732.1527, [email protected]
Facebook.com/MaricopaCountyMasterGardeners
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 4
by Rob Mariani and Don Sutton
PLANT DIAGNOSTICS and Teaching/Learning Moments
The purpose of this section of Roots & Shoots is to focus on plant diagnostics using actual questions we get as Master Gardeners. Our approach is to state a plant-related question that has come through the Arid Gardener Listserv, Plant Help Desk, presentations at public events, someone who walks into the Extension Office, or from a neighbor. One or more answers from Master Gardener(s) will be given as well as some related ideas to further educate the person who asked the question. Think of this last part as a teaching/learning moment. It is through teaching that we best learn and this is a great opportunity for us to share our knowledge and further the Master Gardener mission.
To stimulate discussion, we will present one or two questions that will be answered in the next edition of Roots & Shoots.
Master Gardeners are invited and encouraged to ask follow up questions and comment on any of the questions and/or responses in this column to make this a truly interactive learning experience.
This can be done by emailing your questions and comments to [email protected]. Your contribution may be published in future articles as space allows.
As we learned in the intern class, Master Gardeners who answer plant questions need to have good detective skills. Diagnosing a problem requires us to gather information, make observations, ask questions, and do some level of analysis before responding. These diagnostic skills will be highlighted where possible.
Question
We moved to the valley last October and have decided to give our landscape a new look now that winter is on the way out. One of the plants I want is an ocotillo. When should I plant it, where can I get one, and what is the best way to plant it?
Diagnostic Approach (Teaching/Learning Moment)
Before answering this question you as a Master Gardener need to do a bit of research. You quickly find that the ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens) is indigenous to the Sonoran and Chihuahuan Deserts and found in parts of Arizona, New Mexico, west Texas, southern California, southern Nevada, and northern Mexico. Interestingly, you will find that not all of the land-grant universities in this geographic area agree on selection, planting, or watering of the ocotillo. Texas A&M suggests not using this plant for the landscape because of the slow growing nature and it is often collected from the wild. More consistent and complete information comes from the Phoenix Desert Botanical Garden (DBG) and Tucson Cactus & Succulent Society (TCSS).
Here are some items to share with the client if you have an opportunity to have a discussion:
• The ocotillo is a shrub - not a cactus. It is deciduous and in the same family as the boojums• The plant will not have a mark on it showing which direction to plant it• Height at maturity is 15 to 20 feet and up to 6 feet wide• Ocotillos are very heat tolerant• They are hardy down to 0 degrees F• The native habitat is open, stony, well-drained desert slopes below 5,000 feet• You may need to prune some roots on the bare-root plants to remove broken or split roots, so talk about good pruning
practices• If the ocotillo is large, then you will need to talk about the proper staking methods (the literature sites a 3-stake method)• Let the client know when you are citing a university publication or one from the DBG or TCSS
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 5
Answer
The ocotillo can be a great addition to a landscape that is designed for desert-adaptive plants. So let’s get to your questions. The best time of year to plant an ocotillo is between March and May. You may also see bare root ocotillos for sale in the fall. Some articles will tell you that you can plant any time of year, but March through May gives it the best chance for success.
Your question about where to get one is really important. This time of year you will probably find them available at most nurseries, large plant sales, and the big box stores. Just as important as where to find one is what to ask about and look for to get a healthy plant. The ocotillo will be available commonly as a bare root plant or in soil in a wooden crate or black plastic container. If it is bare root, you will see them leaning against a wall with their canes tied up and resting on the roots. Inspect the roots carefully. Look for plants with the largest root structure without a great deal of broken or split roots. Ask how long the ocotillo has been out of the ground. The survival rate drops over time because the roots dry out. In the hot summer months the plant will lose moisture quicker. If the salesperson can’t tell you, then go for the heavier plant with the largest root structure and the least amount of root damage. The weight means the ocotillo has retained some water. What you don’t want is a plant that is very light and has very little root structure.
If the ocotillo is in a container, ask about the soil around the roots in the container. You want native soil, not some kind of soil medium mix. The survival rate when the plant is in a medium mix is much lower because the ocotillo struggles to make that transition to our native soil when transplanted. Whether you purchase a bare root or container plant, ask about the seller’s return policy and keep any receipts in the event you need to make a return. Keep in mind that the bare root ocotillo may take 1-3 years before they start leafing out.
The ocotillo is also referred to as desert coral, coach whip, Jacob’s staff, or vine cactus. Some of these are misnomers because the ocotillo is a woody shrub, not a cactus. You need to treat it like a desert-adapted shrub when it comes to planting and watering. Pick a location where the plant will get full sun and the soil has very good drainage. The ocotillo can tolerate a range of soils. They will grow best in rocky, fast-draining native soils and, like other drought-tolerant plants, the roots will rot in soil that is frequently wet. If you are planting an ocotillo that is held in a wooden or plastic container, dig the planting hole wide enough so you can remove the container. If the ocotillo was in a plastic container, cut the plastic so when it is set in the hole you can easily remove the side and bottom. Removing the container before putting the plant in the hole usually results in all the soil falling away, leaving you with a bare root plant. Remember, the depth of the hole should be deep enough so the base of the plant is level with the soil line.
When planting a bare-root ocotillo, dig a hole one foot wider and one foot deeper than the root structure. Your goal is to get the soil line at the base of the plant. The soil line is generally a few inches below where all the canes join together. Amend your backfill soil with a mixture of course sand to insure you have good drainage. Add some of the amended soil to the hole and tamp it down before placing the ocotillo. Add more amended soil and continue to tamp and pack the soil around the root structure so there are no air pockets and the ocotillo has good stability. It is helpful to stand back from your plant to be sure it is straight and not leaning to one side.
Once you get the ocotillo planted, you should spray or mist the canes daily and keep the soil around the roots moist. If you planted in March through May, this usually is achieved with a weekly deep watering. If you planted in the hotter months, you should use a moisture probe and deep water as necessary. Once the plant is established, you can water less frequently. Most sources will suggest a monthly watering during the hotter parts of the year if there are no monsoon rains.
You didn’t ask, but pruning is not necessary or recommended. Select a planting site with the ultimate six foot width of the ocotillo in mind to prevent the need for disfiguring while pruning. Enjoy your ocotillo!
PLANT DIAGNOSTICS... continued
A Question for Next Time: Is it too late to fertilize my orange trees?
Ocotillo in full bloom: az1225
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 6
NOTEWORTHY NEWS
ROOTS & SHOOTS IS LOOKING FOR WRITERSDo you have an idea for a regularly featured topic in Roots & Shoots? Are you looking for a way to earn volunteer hours from the comfort of your own couch and fits in to your busy schedule? Then today is your lucky day!
Roots & Shoots is looking for gardeners to write about what it is they love about gardening. Maybe you enjoy planning and designing landscapes, growing your own food, attracting wildlife, or decorating your corner of the world with garden art. Maybe you love to cook or volunteer at a community garden. Whatever you love, consider writing about it and share your passion with your fellow Master Gardeners.
Remember, time spent writing for Roots & Shoots go toward the volunteer hours needed to maintain your Master Gardener status. You will also have the support of our team of editors and art director. Articles need to be submitted by the 15th of each month. Here are a few topics to consider…
VEGETABLE OF THE MONTH
After sharing her considerable knowledge of growing vegetables with us month after month, Roots & Shoots contributor, Natalie Gagnon, is ready to pass along the opportunity of writing the Vegetable of the Month articles to another talented Master Gardener.
We would love to find someone as dedicated as Natalie to write the Vegetable of the Month articles on a recurring basis, but solo contributions are also welcome! Articles would be written about a seasonally-appropriate vegetable and possibly include a recipe using that vegetable.
VOLUNTEER OF THE MONTH
Let’s give recognition where recognition is due. We know that Master Gardeners come from all walks of life and give considerable time and expertise to volunteering. There are so many stories to tell.
This is another feature that we would like to like to include each month in Roots & Shoots. It would entail being given the name of a Master Gardener as chosen by the Extension Office and contacting that person for an interview via telephone or in person. We would also like a photo of that person to be included in the article.
BOOK REVIEWS
Any gardening-related book can be reviewed. If you have read something that inspires you or adds to your gardening knowledge, do us a favor and spread the word.
YOU TELL US!
Please let us know of your interest by sending an email to [email protected].
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 7
https://watershedmg.org/learn/classes/hydrate
NOTEWORTHY NEWS... continued
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 8
NOTEWORTHY NEWS... continued
http://www.phoenixponds.com
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 9
Greetings gardeners!
Flowers are blooming in the demo garden and honey bees are hard at work among them, reminding us that soon swarms of bees may split away from existing hives and look for new places to live. In anticipation, we closed holes in the Herbie shed as well as the tool shed in the vegetable garden. If openings cannot be covered or screened, use expanding foam in aerosol cans to seal holes in and around your home and outside structures. Should a swarm appear, allow it to sit undisturbed. Bees are most likely resting and awaiting word from scout bees on where they are going next. Alternatively, a bee keeper may be able to collect the swarm and offer the bees a real job. Beekeepers often add to their hives this way. Attempting to drive them off, making them upset and angry, is not a good option. The consequences can be problematic!
Seasons happen so fast here. Cucurbits such as cucumber, squash, and melons, as well as beans and other spring-planted vegetables mature quickly. By late April we may see the earliest maturing varieties begin producing. Remember, cucurbits have both male and female flowers and we see lots of male flowers before the plant is ready to make female flowers. Do not panic! This is a good time to harvest and eat squash blossoms. As the last of the winter crops finish, there is room for additional cucurbits and eggplants should you want to try a different variety. Finally, those 100+ days to maturity fall or winter crops such as parsnips or brussels sprouts are ready to harvest. Later plantings of carrots and beets can be harvested well into early summer. Peanuts, okra, many flavors of basils, or sweet potato slips are all possible succession plantings to follow winter crops.
Shade tomato plants by the end of the month. Mulch them anytime with straw or pine needles for best insulation and water retention. Adjust irrigation schedules as temperatures warm and plants mature. An application of water soluble fertilizer for tomatoes and peppers will keep them happy as the first fruits begin to appear and more follow until temperatures hit triple digits.
Winter weeds that escaped your notice will be seeding like crazy; their end is near. Be sure to dispose of them in the trash as those seeds have no place in your compost. Unfortunately, summer weeds will be germinating. The most annoying, but most easily managed, weeds pop up at every drip emitter in the landscape. Pull them out soon after the irrigation runs, while they are still small. They will put up much less resistance. Left alone they compete with the other plants for water and nutrients. In the vegetable garden let the purslane get about 3-4 inches long and harvest it. Full of antioxidants, vitamin C, and other healthy nutrients, it is Mother Nature’s reward to spring and summer gardens. It can be eaten cooked or raw.
This is the time of year to use compost as mulch in the vegetable garden. As spring and summer crops grow, compost insulates the soil from increasing summer heat, slows evaporation and keeps weeds down. Later you will dig it into the soil as preparation for planting subsequent crops.
Spring flowering perennials or shrubs can be pruned after blooming. They set blooms for next year on new growth; pruning now means your plant will not overgrow the location and you will enjoy flowers the following spring. For additional information to guide your pruning projects see:
Pruning Shrubs in the Low and Mid-Elevation Deserts in Arizona https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1499-2016.pdf
DIGGINGSby PAM PERRY
Shrub Pruning Summary
• Don’t prune unless necessary. • Use the appropriate, sharp tool for the
job. • Prune at the right time of year. • Use the natural growth form of the shrub
as a guide for natural pruning.• Shear only formal hedges.
az1499-2016
Photo by Karen Sankman
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 10
Lift and divide spring blooming bulbs just after they have gone all brown while you still know where they are. If you are replanting them in the same place, amend the soil with a phosphorous-rich fertilizer. Bone meal will not dissolve in our alkaline soil, but phosphorus fertilizer will be stable in the soil and available when the plant begins its growth cycle once again. Space them out as you replant. You will need a bigger hole, or even many holes, to accommodate successfully multiplying bulbs. Extra bulbs can be stored at about 55 degrees for later planting. Treating bulbs with sulfur dust reduces the possibility of fungus and rot. Overgrown clumps of rain lilies can be lifted and divided now as well. You will have some to share, pot up as gifts, or for the fall festival plant exchange. Be sure to label them clearly with indelible markers so you know which is what! As bulbs with summer foliage appear, use a fertilizer formulated to encourage flowering.
It’s time to thin summer fruit. Apples, nectarines, grapes, and peaches grow larger fruits if there are fewer of them on the plant. You can staple brown paper sandwich bags over pomegranates and grape clusters to preserve them. What the birds and bugs do not find, they cannot damage. Speaking of damage, cover peach and nectarine trees to protect your harvest. Consider using mosquito nets found in the home decor stores that are intended to dress up your bed to make it look like you sleep in the tropics. They will cover a Bonanza peach or other dwarf tree nicely! Clip them together at the bottom. A full size fruit tree is a bigger project and building a support to hold a net takes some engineering skill. Bird netting catches the birds and makes a mess of them, definitely not fun in the home garden, but there are products available that are more finely woven that can be used.
Bird netting will, however, keep cats from digging in freshly dug and planted garden beds. Cats do not like walking across it and find digging nearly impossible. Lay the net flat over the newly dug areas and secure it with bricks or stones. Be sure to cut openings for individual plants or lift the net off the seeded areas before plants get trapped underneath.
Flowers abound in the garden centers, but cosmos, marigolds, zinnias and sunflowers are very successful from seed. They attract beneficial insects to the garden and make great cut flowers! For more ideas about growing flowers check out:
Flower Planting Guide for the Low Deserthttps://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1100a.pdf
This is a great time to evaluate changes in your desert landscapes. Plants mature and some expire. New plants are added. Revisit the drip system before the heat of summer to insure all drippers are still working. Adding more drip emitters for plants that have outgrown the one or two provided to them at the time of planting will help insure the plants are watered well enough to handle our increasingly hot summers. Perhaps some plants have matured sufficiently to not need drips. Many desert trees can be weaned off regular irrigation as they mature. Three to five years is long enough for them to settle in if they were well chosen and well planted. Doing maintenance now, before it is uncomfortably hot, makes life easier all around. Here’s a link to a publication to help you assess what might be needed:
Care of Desert-Adapted Plantshttps://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1048.pdf
Watering By The Numbers, AMWUA publication is another good tool to help plan and update irrigation systems.
az1048
DIGGINGS... continued
Enjoy spring as long as it lasts! See you in a garden!
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 11
April Design Charrette
Our April Design Charrette is at the home of Kathy Oakey, in the west valley near Loop 303 and Interstate 10 on April 29th.
Here's what Kathy has to say about her property:
“I have a fairly small yard that was initially designed by me (well, the backyard anyway) from afar (Colorado) before I learned about low desert gardening. I’m looking for ideas particularly on perennial color in front, perennial color in back with challenging south and west facing block walls as well as what to plant around the small water feature, particularly at the top. However, any ideas are more than welcome. I have two Border Terriers, one of which loves to dig, so ideas on a yard compatible with that would be a plus. I’d appreciate thoughts on what you might have done differently given that I am restricted to a wheelchair or walker. A bonus would be what to plant to deter caddisflies which are a major pain in the summer since there is a canal on the other side of the back wall.”
Email us at [email protected] if you would like to reserve a spot in Kathy's Charrette. Attendance is typically limited to twelve participants divided into teams of three people each.
Your Design Charrette Team: Sue Lanker, Mitzi Maldonado, Suellen Seifert
DESIGN CHARRETTEwritten by THE DESIGN CHARRETTE TEAM
What is a Design Charrette... And How Can I Participate?
A design charrette is a forum hosted by a Master Gardener to develop design ideas for a chosen landscape. As a Master Gardener, you can host a charrette for your own property. This is a three-hour event (9am-12pm) that includes a tour of the grounds, potluck and design discussion. The number of attendees is usually limited to 12. Design charrettes are held on Saturday mornings and the host and Design Charrette team determine the date.
HOSTS: Receive the benefit of free design ideas. As the host, you will provide a tour of your property, which includes plant identification and information, researched or experimental. The host provides a letter of intent for the property that prioritizes goals, needs and problems to be solved. We would like a simple drawing of the property to be provided to the group to use in their landscape design. Lastly, the host provides cups, plates, utensils, napkins and water. Guests will bring the food.
ATTENDEES: Are asked to use the principles of Xeriscape in recommending a design plan, such as practical turf, appropriate plants, soil type, watering, use of mulch, and landscape maintenance.
Design Charrette Team:
Sue Lanker, Mitzi Maldonado and Suellen Seifert. e-mail: [email protected]
Photo by Karen Sankman
Desert Botanical Garden
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 12
TREE CARE TIPSby John Eisenhower, Master Gardener, Certified Arborist, owner of Integrity Tree Service*
April Tips
• Now's the time to check your irrigation system for proper function and reset your timer for hotter temperatures.
• Increase duration, not frequency, of watering cycles as temperatures increase. It's better to water deeply and less often, especially if your trees are in turf settings. Be careful not to over-water though. It's a two-edged sword. It has been said that more trees die in Arizona of over-watering than under-watering. Ideally the root zone should dry out entirely between waterings. Avoid putting water on top of water. (For more information on irrigation, see the article How Best to Water Your Trees.)
• March and April are great months to plant citrus and most other trees as soil temperatures have warmed up and root activity increases.
• There may still be time to spray your olives, but you need to schedule soon.
Looking Ahead to May…
• May is a good time to prune trees to prevent storm breakage during summer monsoons in July and August. Alleviate end weight on heavy branches. Mesquite and eucalyptus trees are especially prone to wind damage.
• If your trees have been lion-tailed in the past, consider pruning them properly to alleviate end weight. Lion's tailing is an unacceptable pruning practice. It removes an excessive number of interior branches along the trunk and main branches. Not only are these smaller branches critical to protecting the tree from sunburn; they also help their host branches develop taper that is needed to support increasing end weight as the tree matures. (For more information on lion's tailing, see the article The Art and Science of Good Pruning.)
• Trim date palms in May. If you wait another month, the dates will be larger and heavier and the clean-up and hauling is more difficult and expensive.
• May is the month for the second application of citrus fertilizer. (Feb/May/Aug/Oct)
* Publication of this information does not constitute an endorsement of Integrity Tree Service by the University of Arizona or the Master Gardener program.
Illustration: Carole Palmer, Desert Landscaping for Beginners, Arizona Master Gardener Press
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 13
OKRA: Vegetable of the Month for April
As the warm spring weather arrives, we look forward to the upcoming bloom of the Sonoran desert. Although desert flowers are a magnificent sight, there are some impressive flowers in the vegetable garden as well. One of the showiest is the okra flower and April is the month to plant it.
Originally from Africa, okra is a traditional southern plant that thrives in warm weather. Easy-to-grow okra is rich in vitamin A and low in calories. It is a versatile vegetable that can be fried, grilled, pickled, roasted, sautéed, or stewed. Okra has many names, including ladies' fingers, bhendi, bhindi, bamia, ochro, and gumbo.
A flowering plant in the mallow family, okra puts on a show in the summer as its creamy yellow flowers bring a touch of color to the vegetable garden. The blooms, which resemble hibiscus, are followed by tender pods and although it is a vegetable, the prominent main trunk of okra gives it a tree-like appearance.
Okra should be planted in the sunniest spot in your garden when the soil has warmed to 65 to 70 °F. Mix compost into the soil before planting or work in a slow-release fertilizer such as 4-6-6 or 19-19-19 and make sure the soil drains well. Place the seeds in the soil 1/2 to 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 feet apart. Soaking the seeds overnight in tepid water may speed up germination. Okra grows best in soil with a near-neutral pH between 6.5 and 7.0. Seeds can also be started indoors in peat pots under full light three to four weeks before the last spring frost date.
If you are planting okra transplants, space them 1 to 2 feet apart to give them room to grow. Okra seedlings have fragile taproots that cannot be broken. Thoroughly water your seedlings an hour before you plant them. Plant them about 1/2 inch deeper than they grew in their pots. Water them right away if rain is not expected but let the soil warm up for a few days before mulching. When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants to 10 to 18 inches apart. Although okra is a drought-tolerant vegetable, if you want good growth and production you will need to water at least an inch per week.
The first crop will be ready about 2 months after planting when the pods are 2 to 3 inches long. Harvest okra every other day, as the pods get tough and stringy when left on the plant. To harvest, cut the stem just above the cap with a knife. If the stem is too hard to cut, the pod is probably too old and should be discarded. Wear gloves and long sleeves when cutting the okra because most varieties have leaves covered with tiny spines that can irritate your skin. Okra is a “cut-and-come-again” vegetable, so keep cutting the pods every day or two and it will keep on producing. After the first harvest, remove the lower leaves to help speed up production. Place uncut, uncooked pods in bags and store them in the freezer and you can then prepare them any way you like at a later date.
Okra pests include aphids, corn earworms, fire ants, flea beetles, Japanese beetles, root knot nematodes, and stink bugs. If the weather turns cool, fusarium and/or verticillium wilt can kill okra plants.
written by NATALIE GAGNON
Photo by Wikimedia Commons under Delince.J under CC BY-SA 3.0
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 14
Fried Okra
Makes 2 lbs; enough for 6 to 8 people as a side dish and 12 people for snacking. 121 calories per 1/2 cup serving. Time: 30 minutes.
Ingredients:
4 cups peanut or canola oil
2 large eggs, beaten
3/4 cup whole milk
2 cups stone-ground cornmeal
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds fresh okra, sliced into 1/6 inch-thick rounds (about 7 cups)
Crushed red pepper flakes to taste (optional)
Sea salt to taste (optional)
Directions:
1. Preheat the oven to 225 °F.
2. Heat the oil in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet or a 3-quart enameled cast-iron casserole until the temperature on a candy thermometer reads 375 °F.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk until they are well combined, about 1 minute. In a medium bowl, sift the cornmeal, flour, salt, and pepper together twice to create a “dredge.” Add the okra to the egg mixture and toss until it is evenly coated. Scatter half the dredge over the okra and toss to coat. Scatter the remaining dredge over the okra and toss again.
4. Transfer about one-third of the okra to the oil with a slotted spoon and fry in batches, turning as necessary with the spoon, until the slices are golden brown all over, about 2 minutes per batch.
5. Using the slotted spoon, transfer the okra to a plate lined with a double thickness of paper towels. When it has drained, transfer to a ceramic serving dish that holds heat well and place in the oven until ready to serve.
6. Dust the okra with red pepper flakes and sea salt, if desired, and pass a cruet of pepper vinegar around the table when you serve.
Photo by Flickr user thebittenword.com under CC BY 2.0
OKRA: Vegetable of the Month for April... continued
An easy, tasty dish using okra comes from the South. This recipe is from the Lee Brothers via SeriousEats.com and it can be served as a side dish or an appetizer
ROOTS & SHOOTS APRIL 2017 PAGE 15
A Traveling GardenerWandering, Wondering, Noticing... Frida Kahlo at Tucson Botanical Garden
written by LINDA LARSON | photos by RICH LARSON
The Tucson Botanical Garden (TBG) is a green oasis in central Tucson. Spring is a wonderful time to visit, the aloe alley is in bloom, the barrio garden is bright with spring color, the world class cactus collection is flowering and the blue and white Herb Garden is flush with new growth.
This spring is an especially good time to visit as TBG is hosting the New York Botanical Garden’s curated Frida Kahlo: Art, Life & Garden exhibition. Frida Kahlo is Mexico’s celebrated surrealist, self-portrait artist of the 20th century. Frida was an artist with a strong passion for indigenous plants, flowers, and animals and she incorporated them into her paintings. Frida married Mexican muralist Diego Rivera and from 1930-1954, Casa Azul and its surrounding garden in Mexico City was a center for their creative life. Even if you weren’t a fan of Kahlo before, you’ll gain new insight into this remarkable person after walking through this garden.
I first saw this exhibition in the Enid A. Haupt Conservatory in the New York Botanical Garden. The four-tiered central pyramid built to scale of the Kahlo-Diego garden in Mexico City was recreated as the focal point. The bright blue and deep red (Frida Blue & Diego Red, now commercially available paint colors) were accented by terra-cotta pots filled with cactus. Surrounding the base were masses of orange and yellow marigolds. Even though it was a substantial show, it seemed lost and small within the soaring glass house.
Tucson Botanical Garden is the only other site chosen to host this highly acclaimed exhibition and it comes to life recreating the garden of Frida and Diego. The central pyramid is surrounded by the Casa walls painted in the definitive red and blue.
Welcome to the Garden
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The cactus, the marigolds, jasmine, and white alyssum thrive under the filtered shade of the ironwood trees. A recreation of Frida’s painting desk looks over the garden.
The entire garden seamlessly integrates Frida’s presence. The Cafe Botanica offers a lunch menu featuring some dishes found in a cookbook of Frida’s recipes, Frida's Fiestas: Recipes and Reminiscences of Life with Frida Kahlo written by Diego Rivera’s daughter. I tried and enjoyed the corn pudding which was part of her wedding lunch menu. The Kahlo menu is an idea developed to enhance the exhibition by Botanica’s local chef, Kristine Jensen.
I was familiar with her self-portraits before I saw the exhibition, but I rarely gazed past her eyes. Her face stares intently out at you and it is hard to look more deeply into the painting. Yet just behind the self-portrait, she reveals her fascination with nature as she painted flowers, fruits, and her pets.
One of Frida’s signature emphasis was the celebration of Mexican folk art and indigenous traditions. She embraced the pre-Hispanic Meso-American heritage. Casa Azul was her childhood home and when she and Diego lived there they recreated the garden with native plants. Examples of these are identified at TBG by the chartreuse and purple signs throughout the garden.
She wore the traditional, colorful “Tehuana style of dress (that) emerged (from) the Tehuantepec region of South Mexico. Kahlo adopted this style, dressing in huipil tops and floor-length sweeping skirts, with bright floral prints, thick lace hems, and ribbon trims.” (The Fashion Codes of Frida Kahlo, 6/5/14, Mhairi Graham) Her self-portraits often included a crown of flowers in her hair. An exhibition of photo portraits taken by Nickolas Murray is in the Porter House Gallery. It was in these portraits I realized her
hair, braided with colorful ribbon, was crowned with intricately arranged fresh flowers. In one photo portrait there is a crown of bougainvillea, in another fuchsia blossoms are mixed with creamy orange lantana. From a docent tour, I learned it was a two-hour ritual for Frida to dress for the day and perhaps the flowers are part of the reason.
This exhibition expanded my understanding of her art and her as a person. Tucson Botanical Garden’s staging of this unique and special show is perfect in this garden. An original portrait of Frida was painted by contemporary portrait artist, David Conklin, to use in promotional materials. The portrait first appears in a large banner hanging from the wall of the new visitor’s center. Frida still stares at you, but with a softer expression inviting you into her garden.
Executive Director, Michelle Conklin, enhanced the exhibition with a series of lectures highlighting significant aspects of historical, biographical, nature and textile contexts of Frida’s life. There is an exhibition of the winners of the annual Mexican Consulate Art Competition for 7-11 year old Mexican expat children. This year’s theme was “My rights as a child” which celebrates universal cultural values. All of these elements work beautifully together in this jewel of a garden. The TBG was just awarded recognition from the Canada Garden Tourist Council one of the top 10 gardens in North America to visit in 2017! Under Michelle’s leadership look for more exciting garden experiences.
A Traveling Gardener... continued
Casa Azul
Central pyramid
The child size Casa kitchen further defines the experience while giving the little ones a place to explore.
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Linda Larson is an advocate for the importance of public green space and the value of nature in our lives. She writes as “A Traveling Gardener, Wandering, Wondering, Noticing. . .” http://travelinggardener.com/wordpress/
She is a lifelong lover of flowers, Master Gardener, and gardener in Mesa, AZ for over 30 years. One of her earliest memories is of daffodils lining the small stone path to her grandmother’s door. Personally visiting hundreds of gardens in many parts of the world, she shares her insight and discoveries entertaining readers and audiences.
A Traveling Gardener... continued
If you go:Tucson Botanical Garden
www.tucsonbotanical.org
2150 N. Alvernon Way, Tucson, AZ
Frida Kahlo: Art, Garden, Life exhibition
Frida Photo Portraits by Nikolas Murray
October 2016-Aug 31, 2017
Cafe Botanica
Blue and white Herb Garden
Photo portrait by Nikolas Murray
