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Castles, gardensand rugged coasthne

by Barbara Ramsay Orr

I have become a believer in the luck of the kish.

On a recent tour of the southwest of that gireen

island, I lost a 20 euro bill, and found it stuck

inside my touring map. A random choice of pubs

for lunch in Glengarriff resulted in the best sea-

food chowder I have ever enjoyed, and, against all

odds, I snapped a photo of an Irish castle that will

forever be my tangible memory of heland.

I had been trying to get a good photograph of historic Dromoland

Castle but every time I reached for my camera, the sun disappeared

and it would begin to rain. Not rain exactly, more like a light mist,

what the Irish call'soft'weather.

So I had little hope as I headed out in the fog to tour the grounds.

An hour later, returning to the castle via a curving path that wound

around the famous golf course on the properry I emerged from the

trees at the exact moment that the sky cleared and the sun lit up the

castle. The light lasted only long enough lor me to take a few pictures,

before the clouds descended again. I felt I had been in the right place

at the right moment - Irish luck. ,,

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Elur irr thc mist. Dromolancl Castle Hotel is dra-

mntic. This five star propcrt)'is a short 12-kilonre-

tres fiom Shannon Airport alrd thc perfect place tcr

Lrur,,'ir-icl alter a lorrg llight. Its also an icleal startiug

point for a clrii ing tour of the southu,est ol lreland.

Driving thc Irrsh roads is less inLimiclating tl-ran

it u:ccl to be uunl'roads have been rvidened, and

thele ale modcrn muLti-lane highu'a1's tl-rat can get

i'ou l'he re )'ou \\ant to go quicklv and easillr

But in ireland. getting thcrc is not tl-re point. ancl

the lrelanci )'ou \\'a11t to experience \\'ou't be loundrlong thc fi-coi'ays. \bu need to take the *,indingroacl: that lc.rd 1ou along the coastline. through the

mounttrins. ancl iuto the vrllages rrhere pubs lure

yru into stoppiirg {or rr pint or t\\'o alud lush gardens

r IRELANL)

seduce vou into long nalks.

On a drivr along tlte lrish coast from Shannor.r to

Cork Citr: I fbllori ecl the cl.riete l rorrds. With nini-mal planuing irncl soure hish luck. these roacls tookme to serisiclc to\\'lts that cach possessed a character

:rnd a storlKnightstorrn. on \alentia lslancl. partrvav along

the Ring of Kcrn: is a tidv litrle village that borders

the hirrbour.-lhis is a sumurer holidav place, uith\\'rlter sports. lishing ancl boating. It is best lilto\\rtas the placc rihere the Tlalsatlantic Cable nascornpletccl.

\ou crrn take thc fern' from Knightstou'n to the

Skellig tslands. riith Skellig Michael being particu-

larlv interesting. Rockv and forbidding. this.jaggedisland rias houre at olte time to a group of ascetic

monlis uho cravecl the rsolation and austeritv thatthe islancls pronrisecl. for their spiritual healtli. The

rcmains o[ iheir monasterl: trbandoned in the I2thccntuD. arc a compelling ar-rd sobering r.ision of tl"re

monastic lile that rvor-rld once herve been lived here.

but the climb up rockv steps can be challenging.arrd the trip out to the islauds can onll'be rnade

in good \\'eather. The island is a Unesco WorldHeritage site.

Alter an island adventure. The Moorir-rgs inPortmagee rs thc place to \\'alln up b1'the fire. Yor-r

can spe ncl the night in a rot'n.r.r u,ith a harbour vieu;

erloy great sea{bocl and r-na1'be spend a few hours

in the Bridge Bar listenirrg to tl-re locals r-nake rnusic

u'hile vou sa\'our a glass or tu'o ol Guinness. You

could even join in. if 1,ou kno* a sor-rg or can carD'

a tulte.

Waten'ille is a small to*n further along the

coast that boasts one o[ the best golf courses m tl-re

collntr)l Tiger \\bocls cornes here to golf and fish.

Silent film star Cl-rarlie Chaplin lived here for 1'ears,

Barack Obarna has i,isited and Ricl-rard Nixon hidorlt in Watcrville House after l-ris disgrace.

"So'entecr.r U.S. presidents har,e roots in lreland."

rrrr llish frirrrd \\ill rLll: rrrc.

I think a feu,Canadian Prime Ministers have had

lrish connections too.

Kenmare is a serene to\\,u coutprised of quiet

streets lined with colourlul shops and cottages.

There is a stone circle and a haunting [air1' tree,

under rvhich r-rnbaptised babies lvere traditionallvburied irr thc past. Visitors still leave little tokens

tied to the trees for luck, and to appease the fairies."Be careful to speak quietly r,vhen )'ou are near

the tree - the fairies don't like to be disturbed, and

thel' are rrotoriousll' dangerous when thel' aren't

happy,' Will wanls ute.

hr the centre ol torvn is tl-re Park Hotel Kenmare,

r,vhose grounds are a gardeners delight, with green

sloping lanns leading dou'n to the bay and paths

lined lvith rhododendron and azalea.

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For an iniand diversion, head out from Kenrnare

through Molls Gap to Killarney National Park,

where you can boat along the lakes and hike

the McGillycuddys Reeks, or take a jaunting car

through the Gap ol Dunloe.

East along the coast from Kenmare is Baltirnore,

where the town's castle is worth a tour, to hear

the story of Barbary pirates who raided the village

in 1631. If you take the local ferw out to Sherkin

lsland, you can tour the ruins o[ a Franciscan abbey,

walk the island or visit one o[ the two pubs.

In Bantry Bay, in the sheltered harbour o[

Glengarriff, you'11 find Garinish lsland which ishome to a subtropical garden property The gardens

were designed by Harold Peto and are lushly beauti-

ful in every season. In springtime, the rhodos and

azaleas are in full bloom.

A few miles from the coast, in the country near

Skibbereen, is Liss Ard, another hotel gem with

farnous gardens. This estate, a rer-narkable mash-up

of classic country house design and contemporary

aesthetics, is known for its extensive gardens that

occupy 150 acres around the hotel. The centrepiece

of the gardens is Jarnes Turrells Sky Garden Crater, a

green experience that is both memorable and almost

surreal. I[ you descend the crater and lie on your

back on the stone plinth in the centre, your view o[

the sky and the grassy bowl of the crater's sides is

otherworldly, especially at dawn or dusk.

I stopped in Kinsale to visit the wine museum

in Desmond Castle and to sample the sealoocl zrncl

then headed for Shannagarry and Ballynaloe [1ouse.

This lovely propeily near the end o[ mi' ch.ive

is a quiet retreat, a country manor that feels like

home, or how home would feel i[ motntnv q'ere

Lady Ballynaloe. Each roorn in the hotel is clillercnt

and unpretentiously comfortable. I\n in the Flos'er

Room, with a view of the rvalled garden. Thc big

draw at Balll.maloe is the dining toottt, t-cttolvtrecl

for its cuisine and for its dedication to local proclucts

and producers. The hotel is run by Allen faurily Jr-rst

down the road is the Balll.maloe Cookery School,

run by more Allens, cookbook ar'rthor ancl chcl

Darina and her daughter Rachel. You cau mke cook-

ing classes, walk in the extensive grounds, cujov r>

West of the Crty lu y )011 . a3

I IRELAND

peaceful hikes to the coastal cliffs or plan a rnsit to

the Jameson Distillery for a whisky tasting.

For a change o[ pace, spend a day or two in Cork,

a bustling and prosperous city with is awell known

English Farmers Market. The Hayfield Manor Hotel

is a serene pocket of gardens and sophistication in

the middle of the city, situated next to the university

where guests are welcome to walk through the quad-

rangle and enjoy the campus. Blarney Castle and the

Titanic Museum are nearby.

If returning to Shannon, arrange to spend a mght

at Ballyfin, just a 90-minute drive lrom the airport.

This 600-acre estate hotel was named best new

resort o[ 2012 by the Robb Report. A ten-year reno-

vatlon has brought the venerable property lrom near

ruin to near perfection. lt is gorgeous, authentically

lumished wrth period antiques but possessing all the

modem luxuries.

High tea in the consenatory at Ballyfin, with

scones, creatn and jam, is a winsome way to

bid goodbye to lreland's green gardens and stately

castles.

And with a bit of Irish luck, you will corne

back again. !5

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RecycledFabulous

FEATURING: TOM BINNS I EDDIE BORGO I VITA FEDE I KOTUR I FORGET ME NOT

LUXURY. INSPIRED. LIVING.

335 LAKESHoRE ROAD EAST I SHoPBLACKCAVIAR.CoM I 9O5'a45 3350

Designer opporel,shoes & occessoriesot o froction of lhe

designer price!

Downtown Ookvis your Consignmen

Destinotion

a4 t wesr of the citv Julv 20'13

lfYouGoWhile you could depend on lrish luck to

help you find your way, the lrish Tourist

Board has excellent maps and driving routes,

complete with not-to-be-missed hlghlights,

dining suggestions and available

accommodation choices.

Visit ireland.com for more information.

dromoland.iemoorings.ie

parkkenmare.com

lissardestate.com

ballymaloe.com

hayfieldmanor.ie

ballyfin.com

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