West Coast Australia

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Brett Atkinson Kate Armstrong, Steve Waters

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Broome &the Kimberley

p195

Coral Coast &the Pilbara

p175

Monkey Mia& the

Central Westp157

AroundPerth

p87

Margaret River & theSouthwest Coast

p111

SouthernWA

p135

Perth &Fremantle

p46

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to West Coast Australia . . . . 4West Coast Australia Map . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Top 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .14What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . .16If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Month by Month . . . . . . . 20Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Discover Margaret River & the Southwest Coast . . . . . . 30West Coast Australia Outdoors . . . . . 34

Travel with Children . . . . .41

Regions at a Glance . . . . 43

PERTH & FREMANTLE . . . . . . . 46Perth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48Fremantle . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

AROUND PERTH . . . . 87Rottnest Island (Wadjemup) . . . . . . . . . . . 89Rockingham . . . . . . . . . . . 94Peel Region . . . . . . . . . . . 95Mandurah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Yalgorup National Park . . . 96Dwellingup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Jarrahdale & Serpentine National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 97Dryandra to Hyden . . . . . 97Hyden & Wave Rock . . . . . . 98Darling Range . . . . . . . . . 98Kalamunda . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Mundaring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Swan Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 99Guildford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Avon Valley . . . . . . . . . . 102York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Northam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Toodyay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104

Avon Valley National Park . . . . . . . . . . 105New Norcia . . . . . . . . . . 105Moora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Wongan Hills . . . . . . . . . 106Sunset Coast . . . . . . . . . 106Yanchep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Guilderton . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Lancelin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Turquoise Coast . . . . . . 108Cervantes & Pinnacles Desert . . . . . . . 108Jurien Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Green Head & Leeman . . . 110

MARGARET RIVER & THE SOUTHWEST COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Geographe Bay . . . . . . . .113Bunbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Tuart Forest National Park . . . . . . . . . . 116Busselton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Dunsborough . . . . . . . . . . .117Cape Naturaliste . . . . . . . 118Margaret River Wine Region . . . . . . . . . .119

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Contents

Yallingup & Around . . . . . 119Cowaramup & Wilyabrup . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Margaret River . . . . . . . . . 124Augusta & Around . . . . . . 129Southern Forests . . . . . 129Nannup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Bridgetown . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Manjimup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131Pemberton . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131Karri Forest Explorer . . . . 133Shannon National Park . . 134

SOUTHERN WA . . . . 135Walpole & Nornalup . . . . . 137Denmark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Albany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Mt Barker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Porongurup National Park . . . . . . . . . . 144Stirling Range National Park . . . . . . . . . . 145Fitzgerald River National Park . . . . . . . . . . 146Esperance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Southern Outback . . . . 150Norseman . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Eyre Highway (the Nullarbor) . . . . . . . . . 151Coolgardie . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Kalgoorlie-Boulder . . . . . . 152

MONKEY MIA & THE CENTRAL WEST . . . .157Batavia Coast . . . . . . . . 159Dongara-Port Denison . . . 159Geraldton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Kalbarri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Shark Bay . . . . . . . . . . . 168Overlander Roadhouse to Denham . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Denham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169

François Peron National Park . . . . . . . . . . .171Monkey Mia . . . . . . . . . . . . .171Gascoyne Coast . . . . . . .172Carnarvon . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Point Quobba to Gnaraloo Bay . . . . . . . . . . 173

CORAL COAST & THE PILBARA . . . . . .175Coral Coast . . . . . . . . . . 178Coral Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Exmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Ningaloo Marine Park . . . 185Cape Range National Park . . . . . . . . . . 186The Pilbara . . . . . . . . . . 188Dampier to Roebourne . . . 188Millstream Chichester National Park . . . . . . . . . . 190Karijini National Park . . . 190Port Hedland . . . . . . . . . . . 192

BROOME & THE KIMBERLEY . . . 195The Kimberley . . . . . . . . 198Derby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Gibb River Road . . . . . . . .200Devonian Reef National Parks . . . . . . . . .203Fitzroy Crossing to Halls Creek . . . . . . . . . . . .204Wyndham . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205Kununurra . . . . . . . . . . . . .206Purnululu National Park & Bungle Bungle Range . . . . . . . . . .208Port Hedland to Broome . . . . . . . . . . . 210Broome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Around Broome . . . . . . . 218Dampier Peninsula . . . . . . 218

West Coast Australia Today . . . . . . . 222

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224

Local Produce & Wineries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233

Mining & the Environment . . . . . . 237

Indigenous Art in Western Australia . . . 242

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 246

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 257

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . .271

SURVIVAL GUIDE

SPECIAL FEATURESDiscover Margaret River & the Southwest Coast . . . . 30

West Coast Australia Outdoors . . . 34

Local Produce & Wineries . . . . . . . . . . . 233

UNDERSTAND

Itineraries

Augusta

RottnestIsland

Balingup

Perth

Cape Leeuwin

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A Southwest Short Circuit

If you’ve got limited time, this itinerary offers a taste of the best of the state – city life, colonial history, beaches, wildlife, wine, forests and rural roads.

Base yourself in either Perth or Fremantle and spend three days exploring the conjoined cities and one day on Rottnest Island. Hire a car and head south, stopping first at Bunbury for lunch and a visit to the Dolphin Discovery Centre. Continue on to Geographe Bay, basing yourself in either Busselton or Dunsborough, and use the rest of the day to explore the beaches. Pick up a wine-region map and spend day six checking out the wineries, surf beaches and caves, all of which are close by. Base yourself in the Margaret River township that night and head to Settler’s, the local pub. The next morning, head to Augusta via Caves Rd and take the scenic detour through the karri forest along unsealed Borunup Drive. Visit Cape Leeuwin, where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet, before heading back to Bunbury on a picturesque rural drive through Nannup and Balingup. From here it’s a two-hour drive back to Perth.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1 WEEK

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Australia’s southwest is a magical part of the continent and this itinerary covers its main highlights. Take another week to really relax into it.

Spend three days in Perth and Fremantle and a leisurely day on Rottnest Island. Head south to Geographe Bay – stopping at Bunbury first to visit the Dolphin Discovery Centre – before overnighting in Busselton or Dunsborough. Continue for two nights in Margaret River township to explore breweries, wineries, surf beaches and caves.

The following morning head to Augusta via Caves Rd and detour through the karri forest along scenic Borunup Drive. Visit Cape Leeuwin, where the Indian and South-ern Oceans meet, and continue to sleepy Pemberton. Highlights include more wineries, three national parks and the Karri Forest Explorer scenic drive. The next day, visit the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk near Walpole and overnight in Denmark. Check out beaches, wineries, breweries and restaurants before continuing to Albany. Spend two days there swimming (in summer), whale watching (in winter), and exploring coastal national parks and the poignant National Anzac Centre. Head north for more wineries at Mt Barker before tracking east to Porongurup National Park. Spend the next day (or two) tackling the mountainous tracks either here or at Stirling Range National Park.

Continue to the South Coast Hwy and at Ravensthorpe hop down to Hopetoun. This takes three hours from the Stirling Range, so spend the afternoon at the beach. The fol-lowing day, head back to the South Coast Hwy and continue east to Esperance (around 2½ hours). Base yourself there two days, spending one of them exploring Cape Le Grand National Park. Head back on the South Coast Hwy and turn north just past Ravens-thorpe for Hyden and Wave Rock (around four hours). The following day, head west to Brookton, turn north on the Great Southern Hwy, and follow the Avon Valley to quaintly colonial York (allow 3½ hours). For a leisurely final day back to Perth, travel via Mundar-ing, stopping at the Swan Valley en route for craft beer.

To make this itinerary shorter, head straight to Hyden from the Stirling Range, or take the Albany Hwy directly to Perth from Mt Barker.

3 WEEKS

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Hyden &Wave Rock

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Busselton

Denmark

Esperance

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Cape Le GrandNational ParkStirling Range

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The biggest adventure in the west leaves Broome during the Dry and traverses the heart of the rugged Kimberley by 4WD.

First stop is the Dampier Peninsula, with its Aboriginal communities, beautiful beaches and mud crabs, and your last saltwater swim. Take the back road to Derby and its boabs, then on to the Gibb River Road, where Lennard River is the first of many inviting gorges. Explore wildlife and gorges at Mt Hart and remote Mornington Wil-derness Camp and look for Wandjina at Galvans Gorge and Mt Elizabeth Station. Turn off onto the Kalumburu Road, check the road conditions at Drysdale River and drive on to the Mitchell Plateau, with its forests of Livistona and mind-blowing falls. Marvel at the area’s rock art before hitting the northern coast and excellent fishing at Honeymoon Bay, just beyond the mission community of Kalumburu.

It’s all downhill from here as you retrace your route back to the Gibb, then turn left for wonderful Home Valley Station, where someone else can do the cooking and the soft beds make a pleasant change from camping. Nearby El Questro has gorges aplenty, none more beautiful than Emma Gorge. Soon you’re back on asphalt, but not for long as you take in the amazing bird life of Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve. Let Wyndham’s Five Rivers Lookout blow your mind with its view of Cambridge Gulf, before head-ing for the civility of Kununurra, with its excellent food and supplies. You can look for fruit-picking work, ride a canoe down the mighty Ord River, or jump back behind the wheel for the wonders of Purnululu, the orange-domed Bungle Bungle Range.

Darwin and the Northern Territory are beckoning, or you can follow the Great North-ern Hwy back to Broome, stopping in at beautiful Geikie Gorge for a relaxing boat cruise where you might spot freshwater crocs. If you don’t see any, don’t worry, as nearby Windjana Gorge has loads sunning themselves on the river banks. Grab your torch and head for a cold wade through the icy waters of Tunnel Creek, with its bats and rock art, before planting the pedal back to Broome, where you won’t care how much that beer costs any more.

1 MONTH

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You’ll camp most of the way on this link between Ningaloo and Broome, with long empty beaches, shady pools and surpris-ingly good food.

From Exmouth, take Burkett Rd back to the highway, and head north, turning off at Nanutarra for the long, scenic haul up to Tom Price. After stocking up, spend the next few days camped in Karijini National Park, exploring the sublime gorges and indulging in a spot of peak bag-ging among the state’s highest mountains. Don’t miss a swim at Hamersley Gorge en route to the relaxing, shady pools in Millstream Chichester National Park. Admire the mesas and breakaways of the Chichester Range before dropping down to the coast, checking out the petroglyphs at Murujuga, then onto lovely Point Sam-son for snorkelling. Take the North West Coastal Hwy directly to Port Hedland, and scoff some wonderful coffee and cake in the Silver Star railcar, before camping at remote 80 Mile Beach, where you might spot nesting turtles. Your last leg is a long stretch of nothing as you skirt the Great Sandy Desert to arrive in tropical Broome.

1 WEEK Pilbara Jewels

Beautiful beaches, spectacular sunsets and wildlife are constants on this coastal cruise.

Take Indian Ocean Dr north from Perth to Cervantes for sunset on the otherwordly Pinnacles Desert. Cruise the wildflower-laden Kwongan back roads and marvel at the flora of Lesueur National Park’s flora before snorkelling with sea lions at Green Head. Follow the flowers out to Perenjori, then hit the cafes and museums of Gerald-ton. Have a surf on a kiteboard, then move on to the wonderful Kalbarri coastline. Enjoy a canoe in the gorges before sampling the outback on the long drive to World Heritage–listed Shark Bay. Watch dolphins at Monkey Mia, go sailing with dugongs, and learn about Country on an Indigenous cultural tour. Check out the stromatolites of Hamelin Pool, before putting in more road time on the stretch north to Carnarvon. Drop into Gnaraloo for world-class waves before arriving at tiny Coral Bay and Ex-mouth, where whale sharks, manta rays and turtles inhabit the exquisite Ningaloo Ma-rine Park. You can fly out of Exmouth, drive back to Perth in two days (overnighting in historic Greenough), or push on to the gorges of Karijini.

2 WEEKS

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Ies

271

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

Diving/SnorkellingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

Brett Atkinson Perth & Fremantle, Around Perth, Margaret River & the Southwest Coast, Southern WA, Monkey Mia & the Central West For this edition, Brett flew across the gorges of WA’s Karijini National Park, met the dolphins of Monkey Mia, and uncovered more excellent Australian craft breweries around Margaret River and the Swan Valley. Ever-changing Perth seems more exciting each time he returns, especially hip and funky Northbridge. Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand

and has covered around 50 countries as a guidebook author and travel and food writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his most recent work and upcoming travels. Brett also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand (other than History) and Survival Guide chapters.

Kate Armstrong Broome & the Kimberley Hailing from the cold southeast, Kate couldn’t wait to head northwest, hitting the road in a rattling 4WD, her first time north of Perth. She’s written over 30 Lonely Planet guidebooks – covering Greece, Portugal, South Africa and Mexico – but this time round, she shocked herself: she fell in love; with her own country. For this edition, she cruised Broome and up and down the Dampier Peninsula, falling for its pearls: the extraordinary red pindan

soils, the fishing and swimming, and the local Aussie down-to-earthliness.

Steve Waters Coral Coast & the Pilbara, Broome & the Kimberley This was Steve’s sixth trip to the north of WA and while some things hadn’t changed (huge distances, heat, blowing a tyre on the Kalumburu Rd), others were totally different (Cape Range National Park after the floods, volunteering for the Mornington Bird Census, try-ing to find the same restaurant in Exmouth). Then there was the added novelty of coming to grips with social media :) Steve’s written online articles on WA and

co-authored previous editions of Australia, Indonesia, Great Adventures and Best in Travel, and come the next Dry will probably be heading north once again.

Contributing Authors Michael Cathcart Michael teaches history at the Australian Centre, University of Melbourne. He is well known as a broadcaster on ABC Radio National and has presented history programs on ABC TV. Michael wrote the History chapter.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 983

8th edition – November 2015ISBN 978 1 74321 556 2© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Read more about Steve at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stevewaters

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’