1983.77.4a-c

Wedding Suit, 1906

Wool plaid, off-white silk satin, black silk velvet, white china silk, white cotton, white silk and

gold braid, black braid, linen canvas

Scale: 1 box = 1"

The wool of the jacket body is pieced in the order numbered on the pattern, each seam

topstitched. Along the front edge, the narrow pieces of , respectively, bias-cut velvet and plaid

(with braid over their seam) are set into the body with no topstitching. The sleeves are pleated

and sewn down, then gathered between the marks to 8" and set in.

The lining, interlining, and body are pieced separately, then put together. The lining sleeves are

pleated narrowly to fit them to the armscye.

The collar and cuffs are plaid, covered with velvet below the dashed line, and interlined with

canvas. Both have a row of braid between the velvet and plaid areas. The velvet on the cuff is cut

in bias strips, and mitered at the corners.

The belt is interlined, and is lined with a single piece of white china silk. Each half of the belt is

edged with black braid, and it is boned at the center back and center front.

The skirt is entirely unlined, with a waistband of white cotton which encloses it and is whipped

on both sides. The reverse box pleat at center front is topstitched to the mark, and the seams on

either side of center front are pressed with the allowances to the front and topstitched to the

mark. The inset side panels and sewn in and pleated; the side seams are sewn and topstitched on

both sides, the stitching continuing over the zig-zagged top edge of the inset. The side of the skirt

panel next to the inset is folded back on the dashed line and sewn in place at the top. The

allowances of the side back seam are pressed to the back, and the seam is topstitched on the back

piece to the mark. The reverse box pleat at center back is topstitched (to the mark?). All pleats

are done as marked and pressed down to the hem, which is bound with purple cotton bias strips,

then covered in front with a black wool tape. All edges of the seam allowances are bound with

white tape.