INDUSTRIAL JUMP PACK & BATTERY CHARGER * HONDA or BRIGGS AND STRATTON ENGINE

*2000 AMP OUTPUT @ 12 VOLTS *35’ - 4/0 OUTPUT CABLE

TWO YEAR WARRANTY!

DIMENSIONS: 34”L X 18”W X 30”H WEIGHT: 604 LBS

A N D Y ’ S E L E C T R I C A L S E R V I C ER A C I N E , M N 5 5 9 6 7

1 - 8 0 0 - 5 4 5 - 0 3 3 9

SUPER START 2000 OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

1. BEFORE STARTING UNIT, PLACE "12V/24V" SELECTOR SWITCH IN CENTER OFF POSITION.

2. START ENGINE: A. MOVE THE THROTTLE LEVER TO THE FULL OPEN POSITION. ON SOME UNITS THIS AUTOMATICALLY CLOSES CHOKE. ON OTHER MODELS, CHOKE MUST BE MANUALLY CLOSED B. WHEN ENGINE STARTS, MANUALLY OPEN CHOKE OR MOVE THROTTLE BACK TO UNCHOKED OR FULL THROTTLE POSITION.

3. CONNECT CABLES TO THE VEHICLE BEING STARTED. WHEN CABLES ARE CONNECTED TO THE VEHICLE, METER WILL SHOW THE BATTERY VOLTAGE OF THE VEHICLE BEING STARTED.

A. ALWAYS CONNECT CABLES DIRECTLY TO STARTER WHEN POSSIBLE (THIS REDUCES THE VOLTAGE DROP). OTHERWISE CONNECT THE POSITIVE (RED) STARTING UNIT CABLE TO THE POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINAL. B. ON DIESEL TRUCKS, CONNECT THE NEGATIVE (BLACK) STARTING UNIT CABLE TO THE NEGATIVE POST ON THE BACK OF THE STARTER OR NEGATIVE BATTERY POST. ON CONSTRUCTION EQUIPMENT, CONNECT THE NEGATIVE (BLACK) STARTING UNIT CABLE TO THE ENGINE OR THE EQUIPMENT FRAME. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO CONNECT THE GROUND CABLE LAST AND DISCONNECT IT FIRST. KEEP THE CABLE AS FAR AWAY FROM THE BATTERY AS POSSIBLE. THIS WILL REDUCE THE CHANCE OF CREATING A SPARK THAT COULD IGNITE EXPLOSIVE GASSES FROM THE BATTERY WHICH COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY. 4. RUN ENGINE AT FULL THROTTLE.

5. MOVE THE "12/24" SELECT SWITCH TO THE DESIRED VOLTAGE.

A. IF POLARITY IS CORRECT, THE GREEN "CABLE-ON" INDICATOR LIGHT WILL COME ON. THIS INDICATES THAT THE CABLES ARE NOW HOT. THE METER WILL THEN SHOW THE OUTPUT

VOLTAGE OF THE STARTING UNIT. B. IF POLARITY IS INCORRECT, THE RED "CABLE FAULT" INDICATOR LIGHT WILL COME ON INDICATING INCORRECT POLARITY AND THE STARTING UNIT CABLES WILL NOT TURN ON. YOU MUST REVERSE CABLES TO CORRECT POLARITY.

6. AS SOON AS VEHICLE STARTS, MOVE "12/24" SELECT SWITCH TO THE OFF POSITION. LEAVE THE STARTING UNIT ENGINE RUN FOR AT LEAST 5 MINUTES TO RECHARGE THE STARTING UNIT BATTERIES. (THE BATTERIES WILL RECHARGE WITH SELECTOR SWITCH IN THE OFF POSITION.

7. THIS STARTING UNIT IS EQUIPPED WITH A “STUCK” SOLENOID L.E.D. INDICATOR. IF THE CONTACTS IN ONE OF THE SOLENOIDS “STICK” TOGETHER, THE L.E.D. WILL COME ON WHEN YOU TRY TO USE THE OTHER VOLTAGE. (I.E. IF ONE OF THE 24V SOLENOIDS STICK, 24V WILL STILL FUNCTION; IF YOU TRY TO USE 12V, THE L.E.D. WILL COME ON INDICATING A STUCK SOLENOID.) THIS ELIMINATES THE POSSIBILITY OF THE BATTERIES BEING SHORTED VIA A STUCK SOLENOID.

THIS UNIT CAN PROVIDE 2000 AMPS TO 12 VOLT SYSTEM OR 1000 AMPS TO A 24 VOLT SYSTEM AND HAS SOLID STATE "OVERVOLTAGE" PROTECTION THAT WILL ELECTRONICALLY TURN CABLES OFF IN THE EVENT OF AN OVER-VOLTAGE. THIS PROTECTS THE VEHICLES COMPUTERS AND OTHER SENSITIVE EQUIPMENT.

ANDY’S ELECTRICAL SERVICE

SUPERSTART 2000 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

INDEXPAGE 1….............ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING

PAGE 2…………….NO VOLTAGE AT THE CLAMPS

PAGE 3…………….PICTURE OF SOLENOID RACK AND BATTERY CABLE PLACEMENT

PAGE 4…………….SOLENOID HAS BAD CONTACTS

PAGE 5…………….PICTURE OF SOLENOID AND CONTACTS

PAGE 6…………….ENGINE WON’T START, DEAD BATTERIES

STUCK SOLENOID L.E.D. IS ON

PAGE 7…………….SPARE PARTS LIST/PRICING

PAGE 8…………….SUPERSTART 2000 LITERATURE/PRICING

1. PROBLEM = ALERNATOR NOT CHARGING

With the engine not running, the battery voltage should be 12.5 volts. Once you start the engine and adjust the throttle to full rpm, the battery voltage should go up to 14.5 volts. If there is no rise in voltage at this point, the alternator has lost its residual magnetism in the rotor and will not self-excite.

SOLUTION = EXCITE THE ALTERNATOR AND SEE IF IT WILL START CHARGING

To excite the alternator you will need to have the engine running, using a screw driver; very briefly touch the positive hot post to the “R” terminal. The “R” terminal is near the hot post on the alternator and is a smaller post with no threads on the end of it. (See images below)

If the alternator excites you will probably hear the engine drag down a bit, and notice the voltage rise on your volt meter. The alternator will typically lose its residual magnetism if the batteries are disconnected or go dead. However, if you need to keep exciting the alternator (it will not self-excite) you should repair or replace the alternator.

2. PROBLEM = DISPLAY SHOWS 12V (OR 24V), BUT THERE IS NO VOLTAGE AT THE CLAMPS

When the toggle switch is in the 12V or 24V position, the digital volt meter should display the corresponding voltage and that should be the voltage at the clamps.

SOLUTION = CHECK VOLTAGE WITH A METER TO LOCATE THE PROBLEM

First check the voltage at the clamps, with your volt meter leads on each clamp you should read close to the same voltage displayed on the volt meter of the starting unit. If there is no voltage at the clamps, check for voltage in the cables (probe thru the insulation of the cables) about 6” below the clamps:

A) If you have voltage here but not at the clamps there is a broken cable at the base of the clamp. Determine which cable is broke, cut it below the break and put a new terminal on the cable and replace the clamp.

B) If there is no voltage in the cables below the clamps, you will need to go to the solenoids.

The top right solenoid is the output solenoid and is the most likely to have worn contacts (because it is used in both 12v and 24v). The engine does not need to be running, but the toggle switch should be in either the 12v or 24v position. In either voltage, this solenoid should now be pulled in. With one meter lead on frame ground, check the voltage on both of the large copper studs of this solenoid.

A) If there is voltage on the bottom stud, but not on the top stud – you have a bad connection inside this solenoid via the contacts.

-disconnect the battery grounds at the batteries before attempting to repair/replace the solenoid(s)

B) If there is no voltage present on the bottom stud, you have a bad connection in one of the other solenoids

3. PROBLEM = SOLENOID HAS BAD CONTACTS

SOLUTION = REPAIR/REPLACE THE SOLENOID CONTACTS OR THE REPLACE THE SOLENOID

You can confirm bad contacts by bypassing the contacts on an individual solenoid with a set of jumper cables. You must select 12 or 24v before attempting to bypass the contacts, and you can only bypass the contacts on solenoids you have selected(so in 12v you can try to bypass either of the 12v solenoids and the output solenoid; but not the 24v solenoids).

For example, if you think the contacts on the output solenoid are bad because you have no power to the clamps in 12v, place one jumper cable on the bottom stud of this solenoid; and place the SAME color jumper cable on the top stud of this solenoid. If you do this and there is now voltage at the clamps, the contacts are bad or the solenoid is not working.

Disconnect the battery grounds at the batteries before performing any work on the solenoids!!

You can repair/replace the contacts or an individual solenoid with the solenoids still installed in the unit; or you can remove the entire rack of solenoids. To check the contacts inside the solenoid, remove the battery cables/copper straps from the large posts; then remove the four screws in the corners that hold the back cover to the solenoid. If the condition of the contacts is not too bad (no melting or major pitting) they can be wire wheeled or sanded, otherwise they should be replaced. Inside the solenoid you will see contacts at the base of each of the 2 copper studs, and one round disc. (With the back cover removed, the disc assembly will pull out of the solenoid)

*** If the solenoid(s) selected (12 or 24 and output) does not pull in at all, check the control voltage on the solenoid coil; it should be 12v. If there is 12v at the coil but the solenoid does not pull in, you have a bad solenoid. If there is no voltage at the coil, you have a bad circuit board or broken wire.

*** The circuit boards are repairable and it is usually much more cost effective to repair them than to buy new.

4. PROBLEM = ENGINE WON’T START AND THE DISPLAY WON’T TURN ON (COMMON BATTERIES ARE DEAD).

SOLUTION = REPLACE THE BATTEREIS, CHARGE THE BATTERIES, OR JUMP START THE UNIT

You can charge the batteries or try jump starting the unit with a 12v battery or another starting unit. If you are going to attempt to jump start the unit, you must connect the jumper cables to the common battery(s)! These are the batteries grounded to the frame.

a) In the starting units with only 2 batteries (Surestart 1250), look for the battery with the negative cable going to frame ground

b) In the starting units with 4 batteries (Superstart 2000), the common batteries are the top two batteries beside the engine

5. PROBLEM = STUCK SOLENOID L.E.D. IS ON

SOLUTION = DETERMINE WHICH SOLENOID IS STUCK, THEN FIX IT

The stuck solenoid L.E.D. means that a set of contacts in one of the solenoids has essentially welded together. This protection is in place to prevent you from shorting the batteries out via the solenoids.

If the cables have voltage on them all of the time, the output solenoid is stuck.

If you can only use the unit in 12v, but not 24v; one of the 12v solenoids is stuck.

If you can only use the unit in 24v, but not 12v; one of the 24v solenoids is stuck.

Disconnect the batteries before servicing the solenoids, and then remove the battery cables/copper straps from the solenoid posts. Next you will need to remove the back cover of the corresponding solenoid to remedy the problem, as well as clean or replace the contacts inside the solenoid. Many times when you are removing the battery cables/copper straps, it is enough movement to break the contacts free; so do not be surprised if the contacts are not stuck once you get the back cover off.

SPARE PARTS LIST:1. COMMON GROUND ALTERNATOR $195.00

2. ISOLATED GROUND ALTERNATOR $195.00

3. SOLENOID $105.00

4. SOLENOID CONTACTS (BACK COVER & DISC) $45.00

5. SOLENOID DISC CONTACT ONLY $22.00

6. DIGITAL VOLT METER $45.00

7. 900 AMP COPPER CLAMPS $34.00/PR

8. 6” TRIPLE WALL SHRINK TUBE FOR CLAMPS $8.90/PR

9. TERMINAL FOR COPPER CLAMPS (4/0 – 5/16” EYE) $4.25

10. CIRCUIT BOARD 12/24V $195.00