Weaving Factors and Their Effect on Mock Leno · PDF fileWeaving Factors and Their Effect on Mock Leno Properties ... weaving, and knitting. Keywords: Drapability, ... to emphasis

Chinese-Egyptian Research Journal Helwan University

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- 63 -

Weaving Factors and Their Effect on Mock Leno Properties

Samer Said Sayed Radwan

Faculty of Applied Arts, Helwan University.

A lecturer in the department of spinning, weaving, and knitting.

Keywords: Drapability, Float rates, Perforated Fabrics, Tensile

Strength, Weave structure, Weft densities.

1-Introduction:

Woven fabrics are naturally net formed (porous material) as a

result of the intersection between the intersected warp and weft

yarns. Perforation degree is a vital character in many end-use

applications such as filtration, thermal insulation and fluid barriers,

so the evaluation of the physical and mechanical properties and their

relation to the structure parameters is persistent.

Pores or voids spaces could be situated in the fibers, between

fibers in the threads, and between warp and weft threads in the

fabrics. The pores between warp and weft threads are also called the

macropores (1).

The weave structure has an essential role to achieve the

perforated effect which can be sometimes accompanied with

distorted thread effects. The methods of forming perforates were

introduced and explained by many literatures concerned to weave

structure (2-4).

The geometric model studies of woven fabrics were started since

earlier time by Pierce (5) and consecutively continued by many

researchers according the yarns cross sections shapes (6-8) to aid the

explanation of fabrics properties and their prediction but these

philosophical conceptions were theoretical and mathematical

assumption differed from actual results, this let many researchers

such as Snowden (9) to emphasis on the importance of handling the

scientific concept of woven construction through practical work

frame.

Most researches about the properties of the weave structures

neglected the perforated structures. Although the air permeability or

water penetration of the perforated structures are incontestable

properties but the adaptation to a specific application requires

evaluating other physical and mechanical properties, so the present



- 64 -

work is focused on the effects of floating rates on tensile and

drapapility properties of perforated fabrics. The longitudinal floating

rates were controlled by three parameters the weave structure

(weave factor), the longitudinal float length, and the weft densities.

2- Materials and Methods:

Eighteen experimental samples were woven of 30/2 Ne Egyptian

cotton yarns in warp and wefts. 16 ends/cm were used for warp

threads and three different Weft Densities were used for wefts (18,

24, and 30 yarns/cm).

The 30 wefts/cm was the maximum rate of packing where the

wefts closely jammed and increased the difficulties of running the

loom because of increased breaking of the warp threads and

therefore the increased stopping times of the loom.

Experimental fabrics were woven according two net Weaves Type

differed in weave factor and three levels of Longitudinal Floats

Length for each structure (above 3 wefts, above 5 wefts, and above 7

wefts) via changing the length of the repeat of the weave structure.

Figures (1), and (2) show the two net structures with the three float

length for each used for weaving the experimental

above 3 wefts above 5 wefts above 7 wefts

Figure (1). First Net Structure, with three different longitudinal

floats

.

above 3 wefts above 5 wefts above 7 wefts

Figure (2). Second Net Structure, with three different

longitudinal floats



- 65 -

The average breaking load and elongation of single yarns used for

weaving were tested by Uster Tenso Rapid instrument according to

A.S.T.M. D2256 (10); the distance between the two grips was stetted

to 50cm.

The breaking load and elongation of experimental fabrics were

tested by textile tensile strength tester (manufactured by Asno

Machine MFG, Japanese company), according to A.S.T.M. D5035 (10). The applied tension of tested fabrics was under constant speed

300 mm/min.

The fabric assistance in weft direction for the three densities was

calculated and also in warp direction; where:

The fabric assistance % = Yt

YtFt × 100

Where:

Ft=Fabric Tensile Strength

Yt= Sum of single yarns tensile strength before weaving.

The drapability of experimental fabrics was determined by

Greusot-Loir instrument, using a circular support disk (15cm

diameter) and cutting tested specimen circular shape (25cm

diameter).

The drabability coefficient calculated as the following:

F % = dD

ds

AA

AA

× 100

Where:

sA = Area under the draped sample

dA = Area of support disk DA = Area of tested specimen

F % = 1/4 (S2-225)

Where:

S = Diameter of specimen after draping

3- Results and Discussion:

Breaking strength in warp direction, breaking strength in weft

direction, Breaking Elongation in warp direction, Breaking

Elongation in weft direction, and Drapability Coefficient ―F %‖ of

experimental fabrics were shown in table (1).



- 66 -

3-1- Effect of Longitudinal Floats Length on the tested

properties

Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) referred to a significant effect of

the Longitudinal Floats Length (at 5%) on tensile properties in both

directions and drapapility of experimental net fabrics.

Table (1). Results of Tested Properties of Perforated

experimental fabrics

WT Weft

Density

Longitudinal

Float Length

Warp Breaking Weft Breaking F

(%) Strength

(gm)

Elongation

(%)

Strength

(gm)

Elongation

(%)

P1

18

weft/cm

above 3

wefts 56.9 16.3 61.6 13 62.15

above 5

wefts 53.8 15.8 56.8 13.8 57.44

above 7

wefts 52.6 13.3 52.8 15.4 53.87

24

weft/cm

above 3

wefts 57.3 16.9 87 15.1 68.49

above 5

wefts 54.5 15.9 79.6 15.3 62.02

above 7

wefts 53.1 14.6 73.4 15.8 58.5

30

weft/cm

above 3

wefts 59 17.7 123.2 16.6 74.85

above 5

wefts 57.8 17.4 113.6 17 68.49

above 7

wefts 55.7 16.6 106.2 17.6 63.79

P2

18

weft/cm

above 3

wefts 57.9 13.5 65.4 12.9 81.08

above 5

wefts 55.8 13.2 63.6 13.1 74.71

above 7

wefts 53.4 13.1 62.2 14.6 72.57

24

weft/cm

above 3

wefts 62.5 15.7 99.6 14.5 86.7

above 5

wefts 60.7 15.6 90.2 15.1 80.49

above 7 58.5 14.6 83.6 16.5 79.91



- 67 -

wefts

30

weft/cm

above 3

wefts 64.5 16.3 128.6 16.2 91.37

above 5

wefts 62.9 15.7 114.6 16.6 84.32

above 7

wefts 61.4 15.1 108.4 17.1 82.55

3-1-1- Effect of Longitudinal Floats Length on the breaking

strength and elongation in warp direction Anova stated the significant effect of longitudinal float length on

the breaking properties in warp direction with fixing the weft density effect for each mock leno weave. Tables (2), (3) show the results of mean rates of the breaking strength and elongation in warp direction, and the significant difference in between. The breaking strength and elongation rates in warp direction trended to decrease by increasing the Longitudinal Floats Length and reached to the lowest value at the maximum longitudinal float length (above seven wefts).

Table (2). Mean rates of breaking strength in warp direction

concerned the longitudinal float length and their significant difference

Longitudinal

Float Length Mean

Level

(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)

Above 3 wefts 59.683 3

5 2.100 *

Above 5 wefts 57.583 7 3.900 *

Above 7 wefts 55.783 5 7 1.800 *

* The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level

Table (3). Mean rates of breaking elongation in warp direction


Longitudinal

Float Length Mean

Level

(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)


5 .467

Above 5 wefts 15.600 7 1.517 *

Above 7 wefts 14.550 5 7 1.050 *




- 68 -

The relationship between the longitudinal float length and the

breaking strength and elongation in warp direction at the three used

weft density for the both net weaves consequently were shown in

Figures (3), (4).

first net weave

51

52

53

54

55

56

57

58

59

60

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Longitudinal Float Length

Breakin

g S

tren

gth

in w

arp

dir

ecti

on

(g

m)

18 weft/cm

24 weft/cm

30 weft/cm

Linear (18 weft/cm)

Linear (24 weft/cm)

Linear (30 weft/cm)

second net weave

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


Breakin

g S

tren

gth

in

w

arp

d

irectio

n (g

m)

18 weft/cm

24 weft/cm

30 weft/cm

Linear (18 weft/cm)

Linear (24 weft/cm)

Linear (30 weft/cm)

Figure (3). Relationship between the longitudinal float length

and breaking strength in warp direction for the two net weaves

Tables (4), (5) show the simple regression equations and

correlation values (R). It's obvious the negative relationship between

the longitudinal float length and the breaking strength or elongation

in warp direction.

first net weave

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


Breakin

g E

lo

ng

atio

n

in

w

arp

d

irectio

n (%

)

18 weft/cm

24 weft/cm

30 weft/cm

Linear (18 weft/cm)

Linear (24 weft/cm)

Linear (30 weft/cm)

second net weave

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


Breakin

g E

lon

gati

on

in w

arp

dir

ecti

on

(%

)

18 weft/cm

24 weft/cm

30 weft/cm

Linear (18 weft/cm)

Linear (24 weft/cm)

Linear (30 weft/cm)


and breaking elongation in warp direction for the two net

weaves



- 69 -

The decreasing of breaking strength rates in warp direction may

be due to Increasing the length of floats above wefts leaded to

increasing the variation of crimp between the plain threads and the

float threads of the mock leno structure where form weak points so

increasing the probabilities of breaking and collapsing the resistance

of the net fabrics to the applied load in the warp direction.

The increasing of elongation in warp direction is explained that

the warp thread crimps with higher rates according shorter floats

above the picks and the increasing of the mock leno intersections,

hence breaking elongation in warp direction increased.



- 70 -

Table (5). Simple regression equations and correlation values (R)

between longitudinal float length and breaking elongation in warp

direction

Weft

Density R Equation

Fir

st

Net

Wea

ve

18

weft/cm 0.9333 y = -0.75x + 18.883

24

weft/cm 0.9972 y = -0.575x + 18.675

30

weft/cm 0.9673 y = -0.275x + 18.608

Seco

nd

Net

Wea

ve

18

weft/cm 0.9607 y = -0.1x + 13.767

24

weft/cm 0.9042 y = -0.275x + 16.675

30

weft/cm 1 y = -0.3x + 17.2

3-1-2- Effect of Longitudinal Floats Length on the breaking

strength and elongation in weft direction

Anova stated the significant effect of longitudinal float length on

the breaking properties in weft direction with fixing the weft density

effect for each mock leno weave. Tables (6), (7) show the results of

mean rates of the breaking strength and elongation in weft direction,

and the significant difference in between. The breaking strength

rates in weft direction trended to decrease by increasing the

Longitudinal Floats Length and reached to the lowest value at the

maximum longitudinal float length (above seven wefts). For the

breaking elongation in weft direction, the highest values achieved at

the maximum longitudinal float length.



- 71 -

Table (6). Mean rates of breaking strength in weft direction concerned

the longitudinal float length and their significant Difference

Longitudinal

Float Length Mean

Level

(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)


5 7.833 *

Above 5 wefts 86.400 7 13.133 *

Above 7 wefts 81.100 5 7 5.300 *


The breaking strength mean rates in weft direction were twice

times in warp direction and the significant differences between the

levels of longitudinal float length were clearer.

The longer floats of mock leno weaves in the longitudinal

direction decreased their joining to the wefts, hence the breaking

strength in weft direction decreased.


breaking strength and elongation in weft direction at the three used

weft density for the both net weaves consequently were shown in

Figures (5), (6).

Table (7). Mean rates of breaking elongation in weft direction


Longitudinal

Float Length Mean

Level

(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)


5 -.433

Above 5 wefts 15.150 7 -1.450 *

Above 7 wefts 16.167 5 7 -1.017 *




- 72 -

first net weave

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


Breakin

g S

tren

gth

in

w

eft d

irectio

n (g

m)

18 weft/cm

24 weft/cm

30 weft/cm

Linear (18 weft/cm)

Linear (24 weft/cm)

Linear (30 weft/cm)

second net weave

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


Breakin

g S

tren

gth

in w

eft d

irectio

n (

gm

)

18 weft/cm

24 weft/cm

30 weft/cm

Linear (18 weft/cm)

Linear (24 weft/cm)

Linear (30 weft/cm)


and breaking strength in weft direction for the two net weaves

first net weave

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


Breakin

g E

lo

ng

atio

n

in

w

eft d

irectio

n (%

)

18 weft/cm

24 weft/cm

30 weft/cm

Linear (18 weft/cm)

Linear (24 weft/cm)

Linear (30 weft/cm)

second net weave

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


Breakin

g E

lon

gati

on

in w

eft

directi

on

(%

)

18 weft/cm

24 weft/cm

30 weft/cm

Linear (18 weft/cm)

Linear (24 weft/cm)

Linear (30 weft/cm)

Figure (7). Relationship between the longitudinal float length and

breaking elongation in weft direction for the two net weaves

The increasing trend of the weft elongation rates according the

increasing of longitudinal float length due to increasing the number

of plain intersections in the same width of the mock leno weaves

repeat so the weft crimp increase, hence breaking elongation in weft

direction increases.

Tables (8), (9) show the simple regression equations and


the longitudinal float length and the breaking strength in weft

direction, and the positive relationship between the longitudinal float

length and breaking elongation in weft direction.



- 73 -

Table (9). Simple regression equations and correlation values (R)

between longitudinal float length and breaking elongation in weft

direction

Weft

Density R Equation

Fir

st

Perf

ora

ted

We

av

e

18

weft/cm 0.9813 y = 0.6x + 11.067

24

weft/cm 0.9707 y = 0.175x + 14.525

30

weft/cm 0.9934 y = 0.25x + 15.817

Se

co

nd

Pe

rfo

rate

d W

ea

ve 18

weft/cm 0.9148 y = 0.425x + 11.408

24

weft/cm 0.9744 y = 0.5x + 12.867

30

weft/cm 0.9979 y = 0.225x + 15.508



- 74 -

3-1-3- Effect of Longitudinal Floats Length on the drapability

coefficient

Anova stated the significant effect of longitudinal float length on

the drapability coefficient with fixing the weft density effect for each

mock leno weave. Table (10) shows the results of mean rates of the

drapability coefficient, and the significant difference in between.

The drapability coefficient rates trended to decrease by increasing

the Longitudinal Floats Length and reached to the lowest value at

the maximum longitudinal float length (above seven wefts).

Table (10). Mean rates of Drapability Coefficient concerned the

longitudinal float length and their significant difference

Longitudinal

Float Length Mean

Level

(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)


5 6.195 *

Above 5 wefts 71.245 7 8.908 *

Above 7 wefts 68.532 5 7 2.713 *



drapability coefficient at the three used weft density for the both net

weaves consequently were shown in Figure (8).

first net weave

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


Drap

ab

ility C

oefficien

t (%

)

18 weft/cm

24 weft/cm

30 weft/cm

Linear (18 weft/cm)

Linear (24 weft/cm)

Linear (30 weft/cm)

second net weave

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


Drap

ab

ility C

oefficien

t (%

)

18 weft/cm

24 weft/cm

30 weft/cm

Linear (18 weft/cm)

Linear (24 weft/cm)

Linear (30 weft/cm)

Figure (8). Relationship between the longitudinal float length and

drabability coefficient for the two net weaves

The table (11) shows the simple regression equations and




- 75 -

the longitudinal float length and the drapability coefficient; this may

be explained that the stiffness of the net structures was decreased by

increasing the longitudinal float length because of being the

structure more opened, hence the drapability improved.

3-2- Effect of Weft Density on the tested properties

Analysis of Variance referred to a significant effect of the weft

density (at 5%) on tensile properties in both directions and

drapapility of experimental net fabrics.

3-2-1- Effect of weft density on the breaking strength and

elongation in warp direction

Anova stated the significant effect of the weft density on the

breaking properties in warp direction with fixing the longitudinal

float length effect for each mock leno weave. Tables (12), (13) show

the results of mean rates of the breaking strength and elongation in

warp direction, and the significant difference in between. The

breaking strength and elongation rates in warp direction trended to

increase by increasing the weft density and reached to the highest

value at the maximum weft density (30 yarns/cm).

The increasing of breaking strength in warp direction due to

decreasing the float rates of warp threads according increasing the

weft density so their ability to resist the applied tension load

increased.



- 76 -


concerned the weft density and their significant difference




Weft Density Mean Level

(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)

18 14.200 18

24 -1.350 *

24 15.550 30 -2.267 *

30 16.467 24 30 -.917 *



(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)

18 55.067 18

24 -2.700 *

24 57.767 30 -5.150 *

30 60.217 24 30 -2.450 *



- 77 -

The fabric assistance in warp direction could be indicated for

both the two mock leno weaves as shown in Figures (9) and (10),

The negative values of fabric assistance in warp direction indicated

that difference in crimp of float yarns and plain yarns formed the net

structures caused decreasing the breaking strength of yarns inside

fabric than the collective yarns without weaving.

-50%

-40%

-30%

-20%

-10%

0%

18 weft/cm 24 weft/cm 30 weft/cm

Weft Densities

Pre

cen

tag

e R

ati

o o

f F

ab

ric A

ssis

tan

ce

Above 7

Above 5

Above 3

Figure (9). Fabric assistance in warp direction of the first net

structure

-50%

-40%

-30%

-20%

-10%

0%


Weft Densities

Pre

cen

tag

e R

ati

o o

f F

ab

ric A

ssis

tan

ce

Above 7

Above 5

Above 3

Figure (10). Fabric assistance in warp direction of the second net

structure



- 78 -

Increasing of the breaking elongation in warp direction according

to increase of the numbers of weft density due to increasing the

crimp of warp threads.

3-2-2 Effect of Weft Density on the breaking strength and

elongation in weft direction

Anova stated the significant effect of the weft density on the

breaking properties in weft direction with fixing the longitudinal

float length effect for each mock leno weave. Tables (14), (15) show

the results of mean rates of the breaking strength and elongation in

weft direction, and the significant difference in between. The

breaking strength and elongation rates in weft direction trended to

increase by increasing the weft density and reached to the highest

value at the maximum weft density (30 yarns/cm).

The increasing of breaking strength rates in weft direction

according to the increasing of weft density due to the applied tension

load distributes with bigger number of wefts; hence the resistance of

breaking strength increases.

The fabric assistance in warp direction could be indicated for

both the two mock leno weaves as shown in Figures (11) and (12),

The negative values of fabric assistance in warp direction indicated

that difference in crimp of float yarns and plain yarns formed the net

structures caused decreasing the breaking strength of yarns inside

fabric than the collective yarns without weaving.

Table (14). Mean rates of breaking strength in weft direction




(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)

18 60.400 18

24 25.167 *

24 85.567 30 -55.367 *

30 115.767 24 30 -30.200 *



- 79 -




-50%

-40%

-30%

-20%

-10%

0%


Weft Densities

Pre

cen

tag

e R

ati

o o

f F

ab

ric A

ssis

tan

ce

Above 7

Above 5

Above 3

Figure (11). Fabric assistance in warp direction of the first net

structure

The increasing of breaking elongation in weft density due to the increasing of weft crimp resulted from the increasing of weft density.

3-2-3- Effect of Weft Density on the drapability coefficient Anova stated the significant effect of the weft density on the

drapability coefficient with fixing the longitudinal float length effect for each mock leno weave. Table (16) shows the results of mean rates of the drapability coefficient, and the significant difference in between. The drapability coefficient rates trended to increase by increasing the weft density and reached to the highest value at the maximum weft density (30 yarns/cm).


(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)

18 60.400 18

24 25.167 *

24 85.567 30 -55.367 *

30 115.767 24 30 -30.200 *



- 80 -

-50%

-40%

-30%

-20%

-10%

0%


Weft Densities

Pre

cen

tag

e R

ati

o o

f F

ab

ric A

ssis

tan

ce

Above 7

Above 5

Above 3

Figure (12). Fabric assistance in warp direction of the second net

structure

Table (16). Mean rates of Drapability Coefficient concerned the weft

density and their significant difference


The increasing of drapability coefficient according to increase of

the weft density due to the increase of restricted intersections which

resist the freedom movement of yarns inside the fabric structure so

the drapability decreased.

3-3- Effect of perforated Weave Type on the tested properties

Analysis of Variance referred to a significant effect of the weave

type (at 5%) on tensile properties in both directions and drapapility

of experimental net fabrics.

3-3-1- Effect of Weave Type on the breaking strength and


Anova stated the significant effect of the weave type on the

breaking properties in warp direction with fixing the longitudinal

float length and weft density for each mock leno weave.


(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)

18 66.970 18

24 -5.715 *

24 72.685 30 -10.592 *

30 77.562 24 30 -4.877 *



- 81 -

Tables (17), (18) show the results of mean rates of the breaking

strength and elongation in warp direction, and the significant

difference in between. The second mock leno weave had higher

breaking strength rates in warp direction, For the elongation in warp

direction the first mock leno weave had higher breaking strength

rates in warp direction.

The second mock leno weave factor has lower weave factor;

increasing the number of intersections of the warp threads compared

with the first mock leno weave so their breaking strength increased.

3-3-2- Effect of Weave Type on the breaking strength and



breaking strength in weft direction with fixing the longitudinal float

length and weft density for each mock leno weave, while there was

no significant effect 0f weave type on the breaking elongation in

weft direction. Tables (19), (20) show the results of mean rates of the

breaking strength in weft direction, and the significant difference in

between. The second mock leno weave had higher breaking strength

rates in weft direction.


concerned the weave type and their significant difference





Weave Type Mean Level

(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)

First Net Weave 63.289 First Second -18.233 *

Second Net Weave 81.522


(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)

First Net Weave 16.056 P1 P2 1.3 *




- 82 -

Table (19). Mean rates of breaking strength in weft direction






The same interpretation could be introduced such as the breaking

strength in warp direction case; increasing the number of

intersections of the second mock leno weave so the breaking

strength in weft direction increased.

3-3-3- Effect of Weave Type on the drapability coefficient


drapability coefficient with fixing the longitudinal float length and

weft density for each mock leno weave. Table (21) shows the results

of mean rates of the drapability coefficient, and the significant

difference in between. The second mock leno weave had higher

drapability coefficient.

Table (21). Mean rates of Drapability Coefficient concerned the weave

type and their significant difference



(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)

First Net Weave 83.800 P1 P2 -6.889 *



(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)

First Net Weave 15.511 P1 P2 0.333



(I)

Level

(J)

Mean Difference

(I-J)

First Net Weave 63.289 P1 P2 -18.233 *




- 83 -

The increasing of drapability coefficient rates concerned the

second mock leno weave due to decreasing the weave factor;

increasing the number of intersections of the warp threads compared

with the first mock leno weave so the increased restricted positions

decrease the movement freedom of woven yarns.

3-4- Participation Ratio of research parameters in affecting on

tested properties

The longitudinal float length and the weft density for the two

used perforated weaves affected on tensile properties and drapability

coefficient by different ratios.

3-4-1- Participation ratio in the breaking strength and


Stepwise was applied on the breaking strength and elongation in

warp direction results for each perforated weaves.

For the first mock leno weave: 91.72% of the breaking strength in

warp direction results were controlled by both the longitudinal float

length and weft density together; the longitudinal float length

participated with 57% and the weft density participated with

34.72%. The following multiple regression equation (3-4-1) could

be used for guising the breaking strength in warp direction (y).

y = 54.417 - 0.983x1 + 0.256x2 ............... eq (3-4-1)

Where x1 = the longitudinal float length‘s value

x2 = the weft density‘s value

87.38% of the breaking elongation of weave structure in warp

direction results was controlled by both the longitudinal float length

and weft density together.

For the second mock leno weave: 96.5% of the breaking strength

in warp direction results were controlled by both the longitudinal

float length and weft density together; the longitudinal float length

participated with 21.5% and the weft density participated with 75%.

The following multiple regression equation (3-4-2) could be used for

guising the breaking strength in warp direction (y).

y = 50.1 - 0.967x1 + 0.603x2 .................... eq (3-4-2)





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85.84% of the breaking elongation of the second mock leno

weave in warp direction results was controlled by both the

longitudinal float length and weft density together.

3-4-2- Participation ratio in the breaking strength and


Stepwise was applied on the breaking strength and elongation in

weft direction results for each perforated weaves.

For the first mock leno weave: 98.4% of the breaking strength in

weft direction results were controlled by both the longitudinal float


participated with 4.9% and the weft density participated with 93.5%.


guising the breaking strength in weft direction (y).

y = - 14.317 - 3.283x1 + 4.772x2 ............ eq (3-4-3)



94.18% of the breaking elongation of the first net structure in

weft direction results was controlled by both the longitudinal float


participated with 16.19% and the weft density participated with


be used for guising the breaking elongation in weft direction (y).

y = 7.803 + 0.342x1 + 0.25x2 ................... eq (3-4-4)



For the second mock leno weave: 98% of the breaking strength in






y = 0.172 - 3.283x1 + 4.456x2 ................. eq (3-4-5)



95.36% of the breaking elongation of the second net structure in

weft direction results was controlled by both the longitudinal float



- 85 -




be used for guising the breaking elongation in weft direction (y).

y = 71.652 - 2.01x1 + 0.83x2 ..................... eq (3-4-6)



3-4-3- Participation ratio in the drapability coefficient

Stepwise was applied on the drapability coefficient results for

each perforated weaves.

For the first mock leno weave (P1): 98.68% of the drapability

coefficient results were controlled by both the longitudinal float



56.1%. together; the longitudinal float length participated with

16.19% and the weft density participated with 77.99%. The

following multiple regression equation (3-4-4) could be used for

guising the breaking elongation in weft direction (y).

y = 7.803 + 0.342x1 + 0.25x2 ................... eq (3-4-4)



For the second mock leno weave: 98% of the breaking strength in






y = 0.172 - 3.283x1 + 4.456x2 ................. eq (3-4-5)



95.36% of the breaking elongation of the second net in weft

direction results was controlled by both the longitudinal float length

and weft density together; the longitudinal float length participated

with 18.75% and the weft density participated with 76.61%. The

following multiple regression equation (3-4-6) could be used for

guising the breaking elongation in weft direction (y).



- 86 -

y = 71.652 - 2.01x1 + 0.83x2 ..................... eq (3-4-6)



3-4-3- Participation ratio in the drapability coefficient

Stepwise was applied on the drapability coefficient results for

each perforated weaves.

For the first mock leno weave: 98.68% of the drapability




56.1%. The following multiple regression equation (3-4-7) could be

used for guising the breaking strength in warp direction (y).

y = 53.063 – 2.444x1 + 0.935x2 ................. eq (3-4-7)



For the second mock leno weave: 93.4% of the drapability




56.6%. The following multiple regression equation (3-4-8) could be

used for guising the breaking strength in warp direction (y).

y = 71.652 – 2.010x1 + 0.830x2 ................. eq (3-4-8)



4- Conclusion:

The increasing of longitudinal float length of each net structure

caused significant decrease of breaking strength and elongation in

warp direction, breaking strength in weft direction, and drapability

coefficient. A reverse significant effect of the longitudinal float

length of each net structure was found in case of the breaking

elongation in weft direction.

The breaking strength rates in weft direction was twice times the

breaking strength rates in warp direction, also the fabric assistance

rates were negative values.

All tested properties significantly increased by increasing the

weft density; the weft density in most cases participated higher



- 87 -

percentage ratio in affecting the breaking strength and elongation in

both directions, and drapability for the both mock leno weaves. The

second mock leno weave had higher numbers of intersections so it

significantly increased the breaking strength rates in both directions,

and the drabability coefficient rates.

The weft density

The highest breaking strength in both directions was represented

by sample no.16 where the highest weft density, the shortest

longitudinal float length, and the lower weave factor of net weave,

while the best drapability was represented by sample no.3 where the

lowest weft density, the longest longitudinal float length, and the

higher weave factor of net weave.

References:

1) Dubrovski, P., D., Brezocnik, M., Woven Fabric Macroporosity

Properties Planning, World Textile Conference, 3rd Autex

Conference, 2003, pp. 359 – 364.

2) Grosicki, Z., Watson's Textile Design and colour, Newnes-

Butterworth, Londond, 1977, p.88.

3) Blinov, I., and Belay, S., Design of Woven Fabrics, Mir Publisher,

Moscow, 1988, p.73-78.

4) Gokarneshan, N., Fabric Structure and Design, New Age

International (P) Ltd., Publishers, New Delhi, 2004, p.62-65.

5) Pierce, F., T., J.Text.Inst., 1937, 28, T45.

6) Kemp, A., J.Text.Inst., 1958, 49, T44.

7) Hamilton, J., B., J.Text.Inst., 1964, 55, T66.

8) Grosberg, P., Text.Inst.Indust., 1971, J, p.125.

9) Snowden, D., C., Text.Asia, 1978, 9, p.45.

10) A.S.T.M, American Standard on Material Designations: D.2256,:

D.5035.

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