Waves

Caused by wind, tides, and earthquakes

STORMS SWELL SURF(energy in) (energy out)

Waves move away from the sea that generated them; this energy can travel across an entire ocean basin like the Pacific Ocean

Label As Much As You Can…

A

B

C D

E

~~~Frequency and Period~~~

Period and Frequency

Period measure the time from when the first crest hits until the next crest hits to same point.

Frequency measure the amount of waves passing a point in one second.

Wave VelocityVelocity is the speed of the wave

velocity = distancetime

To do this, measure the wavelength, then divide by the period

Distance 2 meters Period 4 seconds

© 2002 Brooks/Cole, a division of Thomson Learning, Inc.

The water particle moves in a vertical circle as the wave passes. The particle moves forward with the wave crest, and backward with the wave trough

© 2002 Brooks/Cole, a division of Thomson Learning, Inc.

Water Molecule Movement

Light Waves & Water

The visible light spectrum (ROYGBV) moves through water differently.

Reflection, Refraction, or Diffraction?

Reflection, Refraction, or

Diffraction

Reflection, Refraction, or Diffraction

Sound Waves and Water

Requires a medium to move through.

Sound is an important part of communication for migrating animals such as whales and communication for groups of animals such as pods of dolphins.

BellworkComplete the Wave Actions Worksheet on the bottom of your notes from yesterday.

Copy the statements and then label with reflection, refraction,

and diffraction

Water Waves

How wave characteristics determine ocean motion

© 2002 Brooks/Cole, a division of Thomson Learning, Inc.

What factors affect wind wave development?

Wind strength - wind must be moving faster than the wave crests for energy transfer to continue

Wind duration - winds that blow for a short time will not generate large waves

Fetch - the uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without changing direction

Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development

Why do waves break?Water particles move in circular

patterns. When the depth of the water is less than 1/2 the wavelength, the wave hits bottom. The length rolls over to become the height and the wave breaks.

© 2002 Brooks/Cole, a division of Thomson Learning, Inc.

What different ways can waves break against the shore?

Plunging waves break violently against the shore, leaving an air-filled tube, or channel, between the crest and foot of the wave. Plunging waves are formed when waves approach a shore over a steeply sloped bottom.

Spilling waves occur on gradually sloping ocean bottoms. The crest of a spilling wave slides down the face of the wave as it breaks on shore.

Wind Waves Approaching Shore

Types of wavesSeiche waves are without a crest or trough.

They cause the rocking motion in bays and marinas.

Rogue waves are caused by the collision of two water masses with different densities. They appear suddenly and may capsize boats.

Tsunamis are the result of earthquakes on the ocean floor. They are very long, low invisible waves in the open ocean.

Tidal waves are a combination of storms and high spring tides. They are very different from a tsunami.

Curl is the circular pattern of waves caused by wind blowing over the crest of a wave.

CURL

Rogue wavesThis illustration shows an oil tanker encountering a rogue

wave. A deep trough, or “hole in the ocean” as it is called, drops 15m below the still water line. The bow of the vessel is than over taken by the large crest, that might be 15m above the still water line. The huge amount of water causes major damage to the ship and might even cause it to sink.

TsunamisBy the time they reach the shore and

break, the wave height may be 100 ft. high and may travel at 400 miles/hour.

Harnessing Wave EnergyWater entering the top of the wave generator causes

the turbine to spin which will produce electricity.Tidal Bores - Energy Harvest?

Lockeed Corp’s Dam-Atoll