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Waves and SurfWaves and Surf
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Water MovementWater Movement
Ocean waters move in patterns like the wind
These patterns exist because of where our continents lay
These patterns are called “OCEAN CURRENTS”
Ocean waters move in patterns like the wind
These patterns exist because of where our continents lay
These patterns are called “OCEAN CURRENTS”
Message In A BottleMessage In A Bottle
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Making WavesMaking Waves
Waves are made of energy coming from winds blowing on the ocean surface
3 things tell us how big waves will be: How long the wind blows How hard the wind blows How big the area is
Waves are made of energy coming from winds blowing on the ocean surface
3 things tell us how big waves will be: How long the wind blows How hard the wind blows How big the area is
Waves Moving to ShoreWaves Moving to Shore
The “energy” moves to shore along currents
As it reaches shore, it forms a wave along the shallow waters
As the water gets more shallow, the wave grows bigger
The “energy” moves to shore along currents
As it reaches shore, it forms a wave along the shallow waters
As the water gets more shallow, the wave grows bigger
Anatomy of a waveAnatomy of a wave
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Wave ShapeWave Shape
Waves break on shore in different ways
The bottom conditions determine what kind of waves we will have
A gradual sloping bottom will make different waves than a steep bottom
Waves break on shore in different ways
The bottom conditions determine what kind of waves we will have
A gradual sloping bottom will make different waves than a steep bottom
Spilling Waves happen when the bottom gradually gets more shallow
These waves can be powerful but generally are not steep and good learning waves
Example: HB, Doheny, and San Onofre,
Spilling Waves happen when the bottom gradually gets more shallow
These waves can be powerful but generally are not steep and good learning waves
Example: HB, Doheny, and San Onofre,
QuickTime™ and a decompressor
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QuickTime™ and a decompressor
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QuickTime™ and a decompressor
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QuickTime™ and a decompressor
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QuickTime™ and a decompressor
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Plunging Waves (Barrels) occur when the bottom goes from deep to shallow very quickly
Example: The Wedge
Plunging Waves (Barrels) occur when the bottom goes from deep to shallow very quickly
Example: The Wedge
Surfs up in HBSurfs up in HB
During the summer, our waves generally come from the Southwest (New Zealand, Fiji, and Indonesia)
During the winter, our waves come from the Northwest (Alaska and Japan)
Hurricanes in Mexico also send us large surf
During the summer, our waves generally come from the Southwest (New Zealand, Fiji, and Indonesia)
During the winter, our waves come from the Northwest (Alaska and Japan)
Hurricanes in Mexico also send us large surf
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Ocean Bottoms Around the World
Ocean Bottoms Around the World
Along our continents, there is shallow water that extends for miles out to sea
This is called the Continental Shelf
Most shelves slope gradually
Have an average depth of 200 feet
Along our continents, there is shallow water that extends for miles out to sea
This is called the Continental Shelf
Most shelves slope gradually
Have an average depth of 200 feet
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shelfshelf
New Sea FloorNew Sea Floor
Our continents drift on enormous plates (tectonic plates)
The plates crash into one another and others move away from one another
In some places, new sea floor is being created
In other places, old sea floor is being pushed back under the earth
Our continents drift on enormous plates (tectonic plates)
The plates crash into one another and others move away from one another
In some places, new sea floor is being created
In other places, old sea floor is being pushed back under the earth
Mid Atlantic TrenchMid Atlantic Trench
As lava creeps up from deep in the Earth, new sea floor is being made
Over time, the sea floor “moves” outward towards the continents
As lava creeps up from deep in the Earth, new sea floor is being made
Over time, the sea floor “moves” outward towards the continents
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Old Sea FloorOld Sea Floor In other parts of the
world, tectonic plates crash into one another
This is where old sea floor is being forced back into the Earth
This is how many mountains are formed (Himalayan Mountains)
Example: Japan, Oregon, South America
In other parts of the world, tectonic plates crash into one another
This is where old sea floor is being forced back into the Earth
This is how many mountains are formed (Himalayan Mountains)
Example: Japan, Oregon, South America
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