WAVE PROCESSES ON A COASTHOW WAVES ARE FORMED Ocean surface waves are occur on the free surface of the ocean. They usually result from wind, and are also referred to as wind wavesWave components = crest, trough, height, length & period.

Crest

trough

http://earthguide.ucsd.edu/earthguide/diagrams/waves/swf/wave_wind.html

Big sea waves 01:29 From: innofidelity

WAVE PROCESSES ON A COAST1. HOW WAVES ARE FORMEDWAVES TRANSMIT ENERGY WITHOUT

ANY FORWARD MOVEMENT OF WATER

How swell moves out from storm centres This satellite drawing shows how swell moves out from the centre of storms.

Red = biggest swell

Purple= smallest swell

Look how these waves impact on the coast – they will either erode the land or deposit material along

the coast

How energy travels as through water As a wave travels through the waver, the particles travel in clockwise circles. As long as the water is deeper than the circle there is no real forward movement.

A final look at wave movement – click on this link wave animation

The 3 FACTORS that determine wave size :

1. the strength of the wind 2. the length of time that the wind blows 3. the distance over which the wind blows [the fetch]

THE EFFECT OF SPEED, FETCH & DURATION ON WAVE HEIGHTSUse this animation (Wave machine animation) to see the effect of wind speed, fetch & duration

WHAT CAUSES WAVES TO BREAK (BREAKERS)?In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave's properties. This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). As waves enter shallow water, their: - wavelength shortens - Height increases - Speed decreases

A BREAKING WAVE

WHAT CAUSES WAVES TO BREAK?

WHICH WAVES WILL ERODE/ DEPOSIT

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVoMtPFtEg0&feature=related

Ship in a cyclone

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-MPHrfHpc0&feature=related

Billabong Big Waves

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaKXyehicWw&feature=related