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EasternOregon

Ashland &Southern Oregon

The WillametteValley & Wine

Country

WashingtonCascades

ColumbiaRiver GorgePortland

OregonCoast

Seattle

Northwestern Washington& the San Juan Islands

Vancouver, Whistler &Vancouver Island

Olympic Peninsula &Washington Coast

Central& Eastern

Washingtonp185

p346

p325

p275

p243

p152

p262p214

p293

p62

p94

p370

p121

CentralOregon &

the OregonCascades

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Sandra Bao, Celeste Brash, John Lee, Brendan Sainsbury

Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Chelan & Around . . . . . . . 169Snoqualmie Valley . . . . . . .171Tacoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Mt Rainier National Park Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Crystal Mountain . . . . . . . 179Mt St Helens . . . . . . . . . . . 179Mt Adams . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183

CENTRAL & EASTERN WASHINGTON . . . . . 185Leavenworth . . . . . . . . . . . 186Wenatchee . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Yakima Valley . . . . . . . . . . 193Walla Walla . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Pullman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203Spokane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Grand Coulee Dam Area . . . 210Okanogan River Valley . . . 211Colville National Forest . . 211

PORTLAND . . . . . . . 214Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 235Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240

THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY & WINE COUNTRY . . . . . . . . . . . 243Oregon City . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Champoeg State Heritage Area . . . . . . . . . . 246Newberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Dundee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247McMinnville . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Salem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250Eugene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255McKenzie Region . . . . . . . 259

ON THE ROAD

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PLAN YOUR TRIP

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MT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK P172

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SPACE NEEDLE P71

Welcome to the Pacific Northwest . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Pacific Northwest’s Top 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . 23Month by Month . . . . . . . .27Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Pacific Northwest Road Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Pacific Northwest Outdoors . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Travel with Children . . . . 53Regions at a Glance . . . . 56

SEATTLE . . . . . . . . . . 62Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 87Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

NORTHWESTERN WASHINGTON & THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . 94Bellingham . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Anacortes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Lower Skagit River Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Whidbey Island . . . . . . . . 104San Juan Island . . . . . . . . 108Orcas Island . . . . . . . . . . . 114Lopez Island . . . . . . . . . . . 118Shaw Island . . . . . . . . . . . 120

OLYMPIC PENINSULA & WASHINGTON COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . .121Olympia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Northeastern Olympic Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Olympic National Park . . 131Northwestern Olympic Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139Washington Coast . . . . 142

WASHINGTON CASCADES . . . . . . . . 152Mt Baker Area . . . . . . . . . 153Upper Skagit River Valley . . 157North Cascades National Park . . . . . . . . . . 158Methow Valley . . . . . . . . . 162Stehekin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166

Contents

COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE . . . . . . . . . . . 262The Western Gorge & Columbia River Highway . .263Cascade Locks . . . . . . . . . 263Bonneville Dam . . . . . . . . 263Hood River . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267The Dalles & Around . . . . 271

CENTRAL OREGON & THE OREGON CASCADES . . . . . . . . 275Mt Hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Maupin & the Lower Deschutes River . . . . . . . .280Warm Springs Indian Reservation . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Mt Jefferson & the Metolius River . . . . . . 282Sisters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Cascade Lakes . . . . . . . . .290

OREGON COAST . . . 293Astoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294Seaside . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298Cannon Beach . . . . . . . . .300Lincoln City . . . . . . . . . . . .305Depoe Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Newport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308Yachats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310Southern Oregon Coast . .312

ASHLAND & SOUTHERN OREGON . . . . . . . . . . 325Ashland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326North Umpqua River . . . . 337Crater Lake National Park . . 338Rogue River . . . . . . . . . . . . 341

EASTERN OREGON . .346Pendleton . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347La Grande . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351Enterprise . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352Joseph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354Wallowa Mountains . . . . . 355Hells Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . 357Halfway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358Baker City . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358John Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . .360Strawberry Mountain Wilderness . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362John Day Fossil Beds National Monument . . . . . 362Ontario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .364

VANCOUVER, WHISTLER & VANCOUVER ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . 370Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . . 374Whistler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395Sunshine Coast . . . . . . . .400Vancouver Island . . . . . 401Victoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401Nanaimo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 413Pacific Rim National Park Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416Tofino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418Southern Gulf Islands . . 423

Pacific Northwest Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430

Life as a Pacific Northwesterner . . . . . . 439

Music & the Arts . . . . . 442

Beervana & Beyond . . . 447

Pacific Northwest Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450

Wild Things . . . . . . . . . . 454

Sustainable Pacific Northwest . . . . . . . . . . . 459

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 462

Transportation . . . . . . . 469

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 486

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Remember to run the 4C > 2C script for 2 colour books (the colour of the Plan banner must reflect the Plan section)

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURES

Full-color Road Trips Chapter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Outdoors Chapter . . . . 42

Vancouver, Whistler & Vancouver Island Chapter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370

Seattle Ferry Routes Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472

Plan Your TripHighway 101 Oregon CoastOregon’s scenic, two-lane Hwy 101 follows hundreds of miles of shoreline punctuated by charming seaside towns, exhilarating hikes and ocean views. Everyone from nature-lovers to families can find their dream vacation along this exceptional coastal route.

Why GoFrom the California border to Gold Beach (renowned for its Rogue River fishing) is

some of Oregon’s most magnificent coastal scenery. Heading north, the quaint hamlet of Port Orford offers stunning state parks, including Cape Blanco, home to Oregon’s oldest lighthouse and some exhilarating views.

Further north, Bandon has a pictur-esque downtown harbor and beautiful rock formations just offshore. Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area boasts the largest expanse of oceanfront sand dunes in the US, and they’re hugely popular with hikers and dune buggies (but not in the same place!). The little town of Yachats offers great walks along its gorgeous coast-line and nearby in Cape Perpetua.

In Newport, don’t miss the first-rate Oregon Coast Aquarium. Just north is Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area, with amazing tide pools. If it’s the season, take a whale-watching excursion at Depoe Bay, which claims to be the ‘world’s whale-watching capital.’

Keep heading north, stopping at the Tillamook Cheese visitor center for some free samples. Pacific Seafood, nearby in Bay City, is the place for the fastest oyster shucking you’ll ever see. Meanwhile, small and upscale Manzanita offers a relaxing, laid-back atmosphere.

Exclusive Cannon Beach is great for people-watching, boutique shopping and fine dining. Finally, cute, family-friendly Astoria has plenty of services and great historical attractions to keep you busy.

When to GoThe best time to travel Oregon’s coast is June through September. You’ll get the warmest weather and most services, though accommodation will be at its scarc-est and priciest.

The RouteDon’t expect to drive fast on this direct US 101 route. Most of this highway is two lanes, with occasional slow trucks and RVs, and it goes through many small towns (or larger cities with stoplights).

Worthy DetourThree Capes Scenic Drive is a worthwhile and beautiful 35-mile detour off Hwy 101. It passes Cape Meares, Cape Lookout and Cape Kiwanda, all with great walks and panoramic ocean views.

Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, Oregon.

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The Pacific Northwest offers an endless list of gorgeous panoram-as, from stunning ocean coastlines to verdant forests dotted with pristine lakes to snowy volcanoes silhouetted against blue skies. And it’s all accessible with your own four wheels, so fill up the gas tank and get ready for some unforgettable drives.

Pacific Northwest Road Trips

PlanningTop TipsOn some of these trips (like the Washing-ton or Oregon Cascades) gas stations are sporadic, so top up whenever you can. Leave yourself extra time to explore unexpected sights along the way. Pack a bag in case you fall in love with a place and decide to stay overnight!

What to BringEnsure you take your swimsuit, good walking shoes, rain gear and other layers, and sun protection.

Best ExperiencesWhale-watching and beachcombing along the Oregon coast, counting volcanoes in the Washington Cascades, hiking inside ancient forests at Olympic National Park, and taking in spectacular views along British Columbia’s Sea to Sky Hwy.

35

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Just want to hit the highlights? Vancouver (p371) boasts wonderful parks, ethnic attrac-tions and cool neighborhoods. Further south, on Vancouver Island, is charming and picture-perfect Victoria (p401). If it’s winter, hit the world-class slopes of Whistler (p395).

Bustling Seattle (p62) offers myriad attractions, a unique skyline and great cuisine. Now head north to the beautiful San Juan Islands, such as woodsy Orcas Island (p114) – you can bike around or just relax. Back on the mainland, Olympic National Park (p131) is the jewel of the Olympic Peninsula, boasting a unique rainforest ecosystem. For more of the state’s gorgeous landscapes, Mt Rainier National Park (p172) is a must.

There’s no escaping the attractions in Portland (p214) – from its landmark Powell’s bookstore to its many microbreweries to tax-free (and hip) shopping. Just east are the grand vistas, hiking trails and waterfalls of the Columbia River Gorge (p262). Nearby Mt Hood (p276) is unbeatable for camping, hiking and skiing. Much further south, Crater Lake National Park (p338) is a geologic wonder with supreme scenery. Finally, if you have time left over, there’s the grandeur (and seafood cuisine) of the beautiful Oregon Coast (p293).

Pacific Northwest Grand Tour

Whistler

Seattle

Portland

Victoria

Crater LakeNational Park

OregonCoast

Mt Hood

CANADA

UNITED STATES

WASHINGTON

OREGON IDAHO

MONTANA

BRITISHCOLUMBIA

ColumbiaRiver Gorge

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Washington’s San Juans are an archipelago of hundreds of islands covering some 750 sq miles. Only about 60 are inhabited, and just four are accessible by public ferry. Three of these islands bring thousands of vacationers every year, but each has managed to keep a serene atmosphere and distinct character.

San Juan Island (p108) has the best tourist facilities, along with the archipelago’s only sizable town, Friday Harbor. Lime Kiln Point State Park (p109) has prime whale-watching; in June, keep a lookout for killer or minke whales feasting on salmon runs. To the north is San Juan Island National Historical Park (p109), with old British mili-tary facilities and earthwork fortifications and – on clear days – great mountain views.

The largest of the islands, Orcas Island (p114) is probably the most beautiful – and the poshest. It’s dotted with fancy homes, and the lack of a central town gives it an ex-clusive neighborhood feel. Check out Moran State Park (p114), which offers camping, fishing, hiking and mountain biking. Mt Constitution, the archipelago’s highest point, is also here, featuring some of the finest views in Washington.

Lopez Island (p118) is the most peaceful island, with friendly locals and pastoral charm. Don’t expect too many tourist services – agriculture and farming are the main focus. The mostly flat island is made for cycling, and there’s little vehicular traffic.

A much larger island to explore is BC’s Vancouver Island (p401). Start in lovely Victoria (p401), a cosmopolitan city with a variety of ethnic cultures, along with a touch of old Britain. Can’t-miss attractions include the world-famous Butchart Gardens and high tea at the grand Empress Hotel. Wine lovers and foodies should head to the Cowichan Valley (p412), home to boutique wineries and organic farms. Further west is the coastal town of Tofino (p418), where you can go kayaking and spot marine life including gray whales. Nearby is Pacific Rim National Park Reserve (p416), with rainforest, crashing surf, islands to explore and amazing hiking. Finally, head to land’s end at Cape Scott Provincial Park (p423) to explore pristine beaches; outdoor lovers have miles of challenging trails and backcountry camping opportunities.

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Start your Oregon adventure in Portland (p214), well known for its roses, bridges, beer and progressive politics. Be sure to visit downtown’s landmarks and the Pearl District’s boutiques; Powell’s City of Books is one of the world’s largest independent bookstores. Over on the east side of the Willamette River are several distinct and fun neighborhoods including Hawthorne, Mississippi and Alberta. Take frequent breaks in the city’s excel-lent coffee shops or microbreweries.

Now drive west towards the coast to Astoria (p294), the first permanent US set-tlement in the west. Today it’s a pleasant port city with a restored downtown, historic museums and Victorian houses. Further south are plenty of beach resorts, fishing towns, state parks and scenic promontories that jut out to sea. If it’s summer and you like to camp, there are endless opportunities along the Oregon coast. Just south of Florence is the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area (p315), the largest expanse of coastal sand dunes in the US.

Heading inland, you’ll soon hit Eugene (p255), a liberal and fun-loving city famous for founding Nike and putting out track-and-field champions. Drive further south on mountainous Rte 58 to Crater Lake (p338), Oregon’s only national park, offering su-preme views of an old volcanic caldera; the water here – fed only by rain and snow – is some of the clearest and purest in the world. Going north on Rte 97 will bring you to Bend (p285), a city tailor-made for outdoor lovers. Nearby you can go hiking, skiing, fishing, golfing, biking, kayaking, rafting and rock climbing.

Driving north you’ll branch off onto Rte 26, ending at Mt Hood (p276), the state’s highest peak at 11,240ft. While summiting the volcanic cone is only for hardy mountain-eers, there are countless beautiful hikes on Mt Hood’s flanks, along with plenty of camp-sites. Be sure to stop in for a drink (or meal) at the historic Timberline Lodge. Now head north again on Rte 35 and you’ll come to the Columbia River Gorge (p262). Cruise through this amazing geologic feature, stopping for lovely waterfalls and hikes along the way, and you’ll eventually finish your loop back where you started – Portland.

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The Pacific Northwest’s largest city, Seattle (p62) has plenty going for it – a great loca-tion on Puget Sound, myriad dynamic neighborhoods, interesting sights and attractions, lots of first-rate coffee and beer, and – looming over it all – the lofty peak of majestic Mt Rainier. Must-sees include Pioneer Square, Pike Place Market, the Seattle Aquarium and the Space Needle, but there’s plenty more to keep you busy.

Get out of town by hopping on a ferry to Bainbridge Island, then heading north to Port Townsend (p126). With its Victorian architecture and location on the Strait of Juan de Fuca, this picturesque little town is a magnet for artists and eclectic personali-ties. From here you can take a bicycle on a ferry to the San Juan Islands, though if you want to drive you’ll have to access them via Anacortes (more on this later). Work your way east along the Olympic Peninsula, perhaps stopping in Port Angeles for a quick day trip to Vancouver Island’s pretty capital, Victoria (p401).

Olympic National Park (p131) can’t be missed. Its coastal strip includes 57 miles of remote beaches with pounding waves and wild scenery; visit Rialto Beach for amazing views. Inland, the Hoh Rain Forest is a prime destination with its famous Hall of Moss Trail. Now head further south to Lake Quinault (p136), a gorgeous glacier-fed lake boasting a historic grand lodge. This is the place to go fishing, boating or swimming. Then pack it up and drive to Olympia (p122), Washington’s lively capital that’s full of music culture.

If you like volcanoes, Mt St Helens (p179) should be on your itinerary; she blew her top in 1980, losing 1314ft of elevation. Not to be outclassed, Mt Rainier is another can’t-miss geologic landmark. Hope for good weather and go hiking among glaciers, alpine meadows and old-growth forests in Mt Rainier National Park (p172).

Looping back to I-5, drive up to Anacortes and take a ferry to the beautiful San Juan Islands (p107). There are three distinct main islands to explore. San Juan Island has undulating hills and a scenic west coast where you can spot whales; upscale Orcas Island claims the area’s highest peak; and Lopez Island is flat, laid-back and great for cycling.

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Brendan Sainsbury Seattle An expat Brit from Hampshire, England, now living near Vancouver, Brendan is a Nirvana-loving, craft beer–appreciating, outdoors-embracing, art-admiring, bus-utilizing coffee addict who had no problem finding like-minded souls in the city of Seattle. He has been writing books for Lonely Planet for the last nine years and collecting notes on Seattle since 2009. He is the author of Lonely Planet’s current Seattle city guide and a contributing

author to the last two editions of this book.

Contributing WriterLucy Burningham wrote the Beervana & Beyond and Pacific Northwest Cuisine chapters. Lucy is a food, drink and travel writer based in Portland, OR.

Read more about Brendan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/brendansainsbury

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Sandra Bao Coordinating Author; Portland, The Willamette Valley & Wine Country, Columbia River Gorge, Central Oregon & the Oregon Cascades, Oregon Coast, Ashland & Southern Oregon, Eastern Oregon Sandra has lived in Buenos Aires, New York and California, but Oregon has become her final stop. Researching the Beaver State has been a highlight of Sandra’s 14-year-long Lonely Planet career. She’s come to appreciate the beauty of her home state, how much it has to offer and

how friendly people are in tiny towns in the middle of nowhere. Sandra lives in Portland with her husband, Ben Greensfelder. They’ve embraced the local green culture by installing rain barrels and solar panels, recycling nearly everything and running a community compost bin. When Sandra’s not traveling she’s obsessed with floating down the Clackamas River, growing the perfect tomato and trying to get her California friends to move up to her little paradise.

Celeste Brash Northwestern Washington & the San Juan Islands, Olympic Peninsula & Washing ton Coast, Washington Cascades, Central & Eastern Washington Locals have a hard time believing it, but the beauty of the Pacific Northwest is what coaxed Celeste back to the US after 15 years in Tahiti. She was thrilled to explore and imbibe the treasures of her new backyard for this book, hike snowy peaks, look for orcas and get in touch with her cowboy and Indian roots.

John Lee Vancouver, Whistler & Vancouver Island Originally from the UK, John moved to British Columbia to study at the University of Victoria in the 1990s. Eventually staying and moving to Vancouver, he started his travel-writing career in 1999. Since then, he’s been covering the region and beyond for Lonely Planet, plus magazines, newspapers and online outlets throughout the world. Winner of numerous writing awards, he’s very active on Twitter and a weekly columnist

for Canada’s Globe and Mail national newspaper.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse.’

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9836th edition – April 2014ISBN 978 1 74220 301 0© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Read more about Celeste at: lonelyplanet.com/members/celestebrash

Read more about Sandra at: lonelyplanet.com/members/sandrabao

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