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Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 An Introduction to Washing Principles and Products

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  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    An Introduction to Washing Principles and

    Products

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Mechanism differences

    vertical We have to be carefull about 3 main parameters at laundry machines. These 3 parameters are;1-rotation speed of the machine

    2-falling height (depends on loading capacity, water amount, wing structure and rotation speed)

    3-Machine surface area and structure (depends on the type of machine (vertical or horizontal) and amounts and size of the holes at the surface of machine)

    For the best results during the rotation of the machine from left to right, wings of the machine has to throw the garments from hour 11 point to hour 5 point. This adjustment can be done by arranging the loading amount-water level-and rotation speed. This equilibrium is the best level for optimum effect and safe wash. If the falling point passes over 12 then abrasion will be lost, if the falling point occurs before or around 9 again abrasion will be lost and in both cases related to the structure of the fabric risk of crease increases too much.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Mechanism differences

    ROTATION SPEED

    LIQOUR RATIO

    RELATION

    LOW LIQOUR RATIO

    MEDIUM LIQOUR RATIO

    HIGH LIQOUR RATIO

    LOW ROTATION SPEED

    RISKY WASHING ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY

    OPTIMUM WASHING POINT 2

    MEDIUM ROTATION SPEED

    ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY

    ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY

    ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY

    HIGH ROTATION SPEED

    OPTIMUM WASHING 1

    ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY

    RISKY WASHING

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    WASHING MACHINERYVertical Drum

    -sophisticated

    -high degree of automation / control

    -various sizes up to 750 kg capacity

    -more common in Europe/ North Africa/ Americas

    BARREL

    -simple

    -lower degree of sophistication

    -more aggressive action

    -more common in Asia

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Mechanism differences

    vertical barrel

    Drum diameters are different, beating rate per turn higher.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Mechanism differences

    vertical barrel

    For machines of equal capacity, the barrel machine has greater metal surface friction area.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Mechanism differences

    Carriage time

    Fall time

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Mechanism differences

    vertical barrel

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Mechanism differences

    for vertical drum machine less friction is imparted,

    resulting in less abrasion.

    vertical barrel

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    -Pre-treatment

    -stone and/or enzyme wash

    effect adjustment

    -bleaching

    colour adjustment

    -finishing

    Handle adjustment

    Main procsess in the laundry

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES

    z -Pre-treatment

    z This step is the basic, but most important part of washing. Related to the final target we have to take the correct prevention in this part. This process has 3 main targets; removing the impurities coming from the fabric, de-sizing at weaving fabrics and decreasing the crease risk on the garment

    *removing the impurities:

    -either from the cotton or from the manufacturing period garment can contain some impureties. These impurities can be based on oil, alkaline or acidic chemicals and all of them can cause several problems in the next steps of washing. In this step a professional laundry man has to decide about the risk and he has to use the suitable auxiliaries to remove these impurities.

    *de-sizing:

    -all of the weaved fabrics contains size on them. During the weaving processes there can be two main problems;

    one is breaking of the yarn because of high friction and second is dust formation. Size is the solution of these problems, because sizes are making a floppy film on surface and improves the tensile strength and directly causes better efficiency. However, this size becomes a problem so it must be remove in washing. There are several types of size are available in the market. But they can divided in two groups-water soluble sizes (CMC or PVA based sizes) and dissolvable sizes in water (starch based sizes)-

    Starch based sizes still are used widely and have the biggest market share because of their cheap prices and easy purchase conditions.There are 4 methods to remove the size;

    1-washing with high alcalines

    2-washing with high acids

    3-washing with oxidative chemicals

    4-enzymatic desizng with alfa-amylases z First three methods are difficult , risky and expensive method at laundry business because of this nearly all of the market prefers enzymatic

    de-sizing.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES

    z Preventation of creases: One of the main problems in laundry business is creases. We can separate creases into 4 groups related to their reasons;

    z Mechanic based creases: these are the creases related to the ratio of water,

    loading capacity and rotation speed of drum.

    z Chemical reaction based creases:These are the creases related to the wetting time of fabric

    or unevenness auxiliary applications

    z Fabric based creases: These are the creases comes from the production of the

    fabric

    z Storage based creases

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES

    z DESZNG RECPELQOUR RATIO: 1/6-1/10 (DEPENDNG ON MACHNE TYPE)

    TIME : 10 MNUTES

    LAVA ZYME DEZ 0,5-1 GR/LT( amylase enzyme for removing of size)

    LAVA WET W-LA 0,5-1 GR/LT(wetting and scouring agent)

    LAVA SPERSE KDS 0,5-1 GR/LT(dispersing and washing agent)

    SERA LUPE M-CF 0,5-1 GR/LT(anti-crease agent)

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    WETTING DISPERSING AGENTz Used in Desizing process must rapidly wet out jean prevents white lines caused by rigid creases permits penetration of Amylase to fully desize prevents back staining of loose indigo onto weft yarns and

    pockets

    z Also used in stonewash / after washing to reduce back staining

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    BACK-STAININGz Re-deposition of loose indigo, or indigo dyed short fibres, removed during

    desizing, stone-washing or enzyme washing.

    z Re-deposited Indigo, reduces the contrast between warp and undyed weft z Re-deposited indigo stains pockets and labelsz Re-deposited indigo is more prone to Ozone and yellowingAND SOLUTION LAVA SPERSE GROUPS

    z Back-staining is UNDESIREABLE in denim washing

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    BACK-STAININGz THERE ARE 3 BASIC GROUPS OF DISPERSING AGENTSz FIRST GROUP IS WASHING AND SCOURING BASED PRODUCTS LIKE

    LAVA SPERSE HOC

    z SECOND GROUP IS DISPERSING ABILITY BASED PRODUCTS LIKELAVA SPERSE HES

    AND THE THIRD AND MOST EFFECTIVE GROUP IS THE MIXTURE OF THESE TWO GROUPS

    LAVA SPERSE KDS

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    ANTI-CREASE (Lava Lupe M-CF)

    z Prevents crease formation during the washing procsess.z Increases the loading capacity of the washing machinez Reduses the stone spots risk during the stone wash procsess

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES

    Enzyme is a kind of protein, that is obtained by extraction method from naturally existing bacteria and fungi. The structure of enzyme is a biologic polymer and it can be found every cell. Enzymes help the chemical reactions in living cells by breaking the large molecules to smaller ones or vice versa.

    z In fact, all the reactions can occur without enzymes, however enzymes reduce the energy demand of the cell for initiating the reaction and increase its speed. So ,they are known as biological catalyst

    z The starting molecule in a reaction is called substrate , and the yield molecule is called substate. Enzymes , incorporate the reaction for yielding the substate but they may be recovered unchanged at the end of the reaction. Therefore , the reaction can continue over and over again while the enzyme is active .

    z The relationship between the enzyme and substrate can be explained like lock-key model. So there is only one substrate that the enzyme is active on. For instance , catalase enzymes decompose hydrogen peroxide but they don`t affect the cellulasic fibres and cellulase enzymes attack the cellulosic fibre and give no damage to the peroxides.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Enzymes

    Enzymes are living organisms which will attack a specific molecular group

    Their shape guarantees selectivity-they are specific in their action

    Anchor

    BodyHead

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    The advantages of using a product which contains enzymes versus conventional chemical catalysts are as follows:

    Increase the rate of the chemical reactions, Provide mild conditions for reactions such as neutral pH and room temperature. The reaction can be easly controlled. Enzymes are biologically degredable , so they do not cause any environment problems. They can be used instead of most of the harmful chemicals.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Enzymes in Laundry Business

    Amylase desizing (removes starch)

    Laccase bio-bleachingCatalase anti-peroxide

    Cellulase breaks and removes fibres

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    AMYLASESz IF YOU THINK ALFA AMYLASES

    AS KEY THEIR LOCK IS STARCH. THEY CHANGE THE FORM OF STARCH TO A WATER SOLUABLE STRUCTURE

    z THE MAIN DIFFERENCE AT ALFA AMYLASES IS TEMPARATURE STABILITY. SO WE CAN CLASSIFY ALFA AMYLASES AS TERMO-STABIL AND NON-TERMO STABIL GROUPS

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    AMYLASESz Lava Zyme DEZ

    effective 40 80 C liquid - pumpable

    z Lava Zyme A-EN 1.5 times stronger than DEZ liquid - pumpable effective 40 95 C

    z Normal desizing conducted at 70 Cz Higher temperature, more back staining of indigo onto pockets and white weft yarns, which is

    undesirable

    z Good alkaline stabilityz can use products at lower temperature 55 C

    reduces back staining 55 C lower efficiency of enzyme slightly higher dosage needed

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    CELLULASE ENZYMES

    z Here we use cellulase enzymes which attack and weaken cellulose (cotton)

    z Enzymes weaken the surface fibres, which are then mechanically torn off during processing taking with them indigo.

    z The need mechanical action to work, often to improve the rate of abrasion they are used with stones.

    attack point

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Indigo dyeing mechanism

    Consider a textile yarn.

    It is not just a smooth surface, but thousands of

    parallel fibres twisted together. The surface is not

    smooth, it had fibre ends poking out.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Indigo dyeing mechanism

    Indigo ring dyes. It does not penetrate far into the

    individual fibres in a yarn. It remains stuck on or very

    near the surface.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Indigo dyeing mechanism

    Abrasion removes the indigo from the surface of the textile

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Cellulase Enzymes

    We can separate Cellulase enzymes into two groups;

    Neutral Cellulases: These are the enzymes which are active between pH: 6-8

    lower abrasion than acid cellulaseslow backstainingpH 6 - 8.0

    Acid Cellulases:high abrasionhigher back-staining than neutral cellulasespH 4.5 - 5.5

    optimized pH and temparature = maximum activity of the enzyme

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    NEUTRAL CELLULASEz For Stone washing Neutral cellulases are the most

    commonly used

    mild action attack on cotton (cellulose) fibre attacks indigo ring dyed cotton fibres on surface of jean causes surface fibres to break and detach fibres on surface dyed with indigo therefore removed reducing

    indigo

    can be in powder or liquid form usually contain

    ENZYME BUFFER DISPERSING AGENT

    MAIN PERFORMANCE OF CELLULASE ENZYMES DEPENDS ON TWO PRIMER VARIABLES

    1-TEMPARATURE

    2-pH

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Temperature profilesActivity/Stability

    20

    30

    40

    50

    60

    70

    80

    90

    100

    110

    30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75

    temperature in C

    r

    e

    l

    .

    a

    c

    t

    i

    v

    i

    t

    y

    i

    n

    %

    ENZYME 1

    ENZYME 2

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    pH profileActivity/Stability

    0

    20

    40

    60

    80

    100

    120

    3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

    pH

    r

    e

    l

    .

    a

    c

    t

    i

    v

    i

    t

    y

    i

    n

    %

    ENZYME 1

    ENZYME 2

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    DyStar NEUTRAL CELLULASES

    Name Form Temp

    LavaLava Cell Cell NN--STST Powder 40-45 C

    LavaLava Cell Cell NN--ST 250ST 250 Powder 40-45 C

    LavaLava Cell Cell NN--TETE Powder 40-45 C

    LavaLava Cell Cell NGNG Powder 50-60 C

    LavaLava Cell Cell BALANCEBALANCE Powder 50-60 C

    LavaLava Cell Cell NN--NMNM Powder 50-60 C

    Lava Lava Cell Liquid ACell Liquid A Liquid 50-60 C

    LavaLava Cell POWERCell POWER Powder 50-60 C

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    BIOPOLISHING

    Here we use cellulases again to attack and weaken the cellulose fibres.

    Any fibres protruding for the surface of the garment are weakened and exposed and prone to being broken.

    Enzyme action alone is not enough to cause the breakage mechanical action is also needed. Either the action of fabric in jet, or in tumble drying.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    BIOPOLISH

    z Process to attack the surface of the garment to remove hairiness, pilling

    z creates smooth surface

    z often called anti pill wash de-pill wash flat wash biopolishing

    z for BIOPOLISHING WASHING - ACID CELLULASES are used

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Biopolishing

    z fibrilated cotton

    biopolished cotton

    z the effect on the fabric surface

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    ACID CELLULASEz Working range ph 4.5 5.5

    z strong medium action attack on cotton (cellulose) fibre attacks cotton fibres on surface of jean causes surface fibres to break and

    detach

    creates smooth

    z usually in liquid form and un-bufferedz must be killed by alkalinity raise temp above 70 C

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    DyStar NEUTRAL CELLULASES

    Name Form Temp /pH

    LavaLava Cell Cell BB--TSTS Liquid 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5

    LavaLava Cell Cell BB--HXHX Liquid 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5

    LavaLava Cell Cell BB--EXEX Liquid 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5

    LavaLava Cell Cell BB--FX KONZFX KONZ Liquid 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5

    LavaLava Cell Cell BB--IXIX Liquid 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5

    LavaLava Cell Cell BB--LALA Liquid 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5

    Lava Lava Cell Cell BB--LHLH Liquid 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5

    LavaLava Cell Cell BB--LKLK Liquid 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Bio-polishing

    z Commonly known as flat washing.z Often done after garment dyeing to clean up the garmentz Also done to soften up garmentsz Possible problems Change of shade Loss of fastness Loss of strength Damage to threads/sewings Weakening of seams Bursts.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    There are 5 main methods are common in the market;

    1-Hypocloride bleaching

    2-peroxide bleaching

    3-permanganate bleaching

    4-enzymatic bleaching

    5-Lava Jeans FO bleaching

    Bleaching procsess in laundry

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    1-Hypocloride bleaching

    This system is the main bleching method for indigo dyed fabrics.

    Advantages:

    1-to reach light colors (even ice blue and white colors)

    2-blue cast

    Disadvantages:

    1-strength loss (especially at lycra blends)

    2-Its not possible to reach grey casts

    Bleaching procsess in laundry

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Cast and the strength loss of hypo bleach can be changed related to the recipe.

    Ph and temparature are the main variables during the procsess. At high pH (9,5-10) reaction can be occure slower but this range is the best range for less strength losses. If the temparature goes up the reaction can happen more quickly but at high temparatures, controling of the reaction becomes more difficult. Because of this most of the user prefer temparatures under 60 C. In low temparature aplications, final cast can be a little bit green-blue, by the help of temparatue cast becomes shiny blue.

    Especially at lycra blends strengt loss can be the biggest problem and the best method of increasing the strength can be summarized as dividing the bleaching bath into several baths.

    After bleaching we have to make an neutralization process and for this procsess sodium bi sulfite and peroxide are the two possibilities. If the neutralization chemical will be peroxide then the biggest advantage will be more shiny blue cast but sometimes for stopping of Hypo smell peroxide can be not enough. These kind of cases the best oppurtunity can be bi sulfite usage.

    Bleaching procsess in laundry

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    1-Permanganate bleaching

    This system is the mainly prefered at spreying .

    Advantages:

    1-Its very easy to see the spreying area because of color change

    2-less strength loss related to hypo bleach

    Dis-advantages:

    1-Its to difficult to use in machine.

    Bleaching procsess in laundry

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    1-Persulfate bleaching

    This system is the mainly prefered for reaching grey casts after stone wash or hypo bleach .

    Advantages:

    1-grey cast

    Dis-advantages:

    1-high strength loss (especially at high temparatures)

    2-limited amount of bleaching

    Bleaching procsess in laundry

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    ENZYMATIC BLEACHING SYSTEMLaccase enzymeDecolourises IndigoIndigo without using bleachProvides very good contrastGives a fashionable grey castDoes not affect tensile strength

    Easy process

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    The indigo dyestuff is reduced to water-soluble decomposition products by oxidoreductase (Lava Zyme LITE) and removed by rinsing. This process is boosted by the mediator, which is contained in the product.

    Due to the pH-value of 5.5 6.5 which is necessary for this bleaching process stickers made of leather and metal are treated carefully as well as the garment itself. Sulphur and reactive dyestuffs are not affected by this bleaching system. It is specific to indigo dyestuff. This means there is no attack to the cotton fibre and so nearly no loss in tensile strength.

    Without any particular after-scouring or after-bleaching a greyer colour shade compared to other bleaching systems especially chlorine bleaching - is obtained. A clearer shade may be achieved by after-bleaching with hydrogen peroxide. It is essential to rinse and wash after bleaching. Then, a softener is applied on the garment and finished as normal.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    DENIM with Lycra

    z Vast quantities of jeans are being made containing Lycraz Laundries are faced with challenge to produce full shade

    range

    z Range must include bleached and full bleached looksz Hypochlorite damages elastane fibres like Lycraz Laundries still try to use Hypochlorite but face severe risk of

    damages

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Rapid bleaching of elastane containing indigo-dyed jeansz based on acid released peroxide donatorz allows fast deep bleaching of denim lycra without damaging elastanez easier to control than hypochloritez gives fashionable grey blue z grey blue can be turned back to blue blue easilyz A safe way to bleach denim lycra.

    L.Jeans FO 2 g/l

    50 C 10 min.L.JeansFO 2g/l 70c 10 min.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Finishing part of the garment wash is one of the most important issue which will complete the look of the garment with handle.

    these are the main product groups for finishing part of laundry business

    1-Cationic softeners

    2-non-ionic softeners

    3-micro silikons

    4-macro silikons

    5-nano-silikons

    6-stiff coating

    FINISHING

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Nonionic fatty acid with additivesz Pumpable liquidz provides a full, soft flowing handz is extremely stable against yellowing

    EvoSoft UNT

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Standart fatty acid base cationic softenersz Soft handle with smothness on the surfacez Low yellowing

    EVOSoft UCL EVOSoft UCT

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Universal quaternary softener (cationic)z Very soft voluminous handlez Excellent surface smoothnessz Stable against to yellowingz Increases the pile stability

    EVOSoft GFL

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Non-ionic PE wax emulsionz gives a smoothness on the surface

    improves sewability

    z improves tear strength at resin finishesz improves resistance to pilling

    EVOSoft PEN

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z These are micro silikon emulsions z Gives good sofness with high smoothnessz High washfastnessz Espesially Evo Soft MET can be used the make more darker colors by

    spraying.(for reparing of bleaching faults in laundry)

    EvoSoft MEBEvoSoft METEvoSoft MEC

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Special non-ionic micro silikon emulsionz No color change, suitable for white colorsz Improves the strength of the fabricz Smooth and soft handlez High wash fastness

    EVOSoft MCT

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Non-ionic macro silikonz Elastic silikon handlez Non yellowingz High working stabilityz High washing stability

    EVOSoft MSA

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Silikon solution (Not emulsion)z Extremely shear stablez One of the safest silikon for jet type of machinesz At laundry prosesses it is repariable (after this silikon you can easily

    repair the color)

    EVOSoft VJS

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Amido siloxanez Slightly hydrophilicz Secure softening (no spots)

    EVOSoft HWA

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Water based non-ionic silikon elastomerz Has high washfastness at 30-40 degree washes and dry cleaningz Suitable to use at fashion denim aplicationsz Improves the strength and shining of the garment when it used with

    resin aplictions at laundry business

    EVOSoft SEL

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    The discolouration of textiles, i.e. a change of shade or loss of whiteness, giving a yellow tint, is commonly known as YELLOWING.

    It is a widespread problem and there is no single reason for its cause.

    Instead a number of conditions can singly or in combination lead to the problem.

    Yellowing is not specific to certain fibres, finishes or washing processes.

    It is NOT specific to chemicals or chemical treatments, but certainly factors within these can lead to yellowing

    It is not possible to isolate one cause for yellowing, so in this presentation, we will look at some of the different types of yellowing which may be encountered in Indigo dyed fabrics or garments

    Introduction

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Cotton, as can all organic polymers, yellows with age.

    As it ages, it develops a yellow tint.

    This ageing cannot explain severe yellowing, or accelerated yellowing problems

    . Light, acids, impurities, detergents and chemicals, overdosed FBAs contribute to yellowing problems

    But these alone do not explain yellowing problems in cotton and Indigo dyed fabrics

    1. Yellowing occurs on fabrics without FBA

    2. FBAs quality has been constantly improved

    3. Our knowledge and experience in their application has improved

    .

    Yellowing

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Certain lubricants used in weaving are known to create yellowingCertain lubricants used in weaving are known to create yellowing

    Hydrocarbon oils commonly used in weaving or knitting as lubricaHydrocarbon oils commonly used in weaving or knitting as lubricants yellow with age nts yellow with age due to oxidation . due to oxidation .

    In recent years addition of antiIn recent years addition of anti--oxidants to these oils led to the phenomenon of oxidants to these oils led to the phenomenon of

    PHENOLIC YELLOWINGPHENOLIC YELLOWING

    Phenolic Yellowing

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Phenolic YellowingThe presence of antioxidants can also cause serious yellowing problems

    They react with NOx

    This reaction causes yellowing

    A Common Antioxidant is BHT (butylated hydrox toluene).This is of phenolic basis and readily reacts with NOx producing yellowing.

    This is just one of number of phenolic compounds which similarly react producing yellow coloured Quinoid derivatives

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Phenolic YellowingAnti Oxidants are used in all of these materials

    Packaging materials Sewing machine lubricants Sewing lubricants applied to fabrics Finishing chemicals (including FBAs) Fibres (coning, spinning-oils, or released from elastomeric fibres) Silicon Softeners, or emulsifiers used to make silicon emulsions

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    ScorchingTemperature of drying and curing can impart yellowing due to scorching of the cotton fibre.

    Good control therefore must be used to minimise this type of damage

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Indigo Dyed materials.FACT:

    Indigo dyed fabrics are even more prone to yellowing.

    Indigo, if exposed to certain agents such as NOx , Ozone (O3 ) can react to produce a number of yellow coloured compunds.

    Impurities in enzymes and chemicals used in garment washing can similarly cause breakdown of Indigo into yellow coloured derivatives

    Packaging materials can contribute to yellowing.

    Reactions between contaminants in cardboard and plastics can produce ozone, nitrogen or sulphur oxides.

    These compounds can react to produce yellow compounds.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Indigo Dyed materials..From the very start of Indigo dyed garment manufacture from the raw material right

    through to the finished product, there are any number of products which can cause,

    accelerate ,or worsen yellowing problems.

    As previously stated all textile fabrics are prone to yellowing.

    With Indigo dyed fabrics we also encounter a number of additional opportunities to introduce yellowing.

    Indigo itself , through simple oxidation, can transform into many different substances, some colourless, but a great deal are yellow in colour.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Minimisation of Yellowing RiskIt is impossible to eliminate yellowing, but it is possible to reduce conditions which

    cause Classical Yellowing

    zEnsure bleaching and bleach neutralisation residues are minimised or eliminatedzMinimise back staining zAvoid the use of chemicals which create yellowingzAvoid leaving garments damp any longer than necessaryzControl drying and curing conditions

    Also at spinning, warping, dyeing and weaving control products used which may cause yellowing.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Yellowing cause by ozone and/or NOx

    Yellowing on indigo dyed material

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Yellowing on indigo dyed material

    Original without gassing Original

    Ozone gassing on treated fabric with

    Lava Jeans PRO

    Silicon softener

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Specialised anti-yellowing softeners are available and have three main action mechanisms

    1. barrier forming

    - Film forming softeners which create a protective layer over the fibre and encapsulate the indigo , thus protecting it from exposure to air pollution , and therefore to yellowing.

    Disadvantage -can also lock onto the fibre, residues from processing which can therefore no longer be easily removed, accelerating classical yellowing

    2. sacrificial reaction

    React with air pollutants and in the process of reaction break down into colourless compounds, but sometimes the breakdown compounds can accelerate classical yellowing effect.

    3. alternative reaction partner

    4. the most successful class of anti yellowing softeners which react with airborne pollutants thereby de-activating or weakening them before they are able to affect the indigo.

    Softeners and Yellowing

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    z Soft polyacrylatez Offers excellent anti yellowing properties by film forming

    mechanism

    z Gives high protection against yellowing effectz Pumpablez Gives unique smooth handle

    Lava Jeans PRO

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Treatment of ready-made denim in drum-type washing machines

    Add to the last rinse

    2 5 % o.w.g. Lava Jeans PRO

    Set at pH 4 5 by adding approx. 1 ml/l acetic acid

    Bath temperature: 25 40 C

    Treatment time: 10 min

    Liquor ratio: 4:1 8:1

    Note: Applying common softening agents with Lava Jeans PRO can impair the impact of Lava Jeans PRO. Silicon softening agent should not be used because they increase the risk of yellowing.

    Yellowing on indigo dyed material

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    C

    N

    O

    HC

    N

    O

    H

    C

    N

    O

    H

    C

    N

    O

    HC

    N

    O

    H

    Denim exposed to O3

    Lava Jeans Pro treated exposed to O3

    O3 levels worldwide a) winter b) summer

    Control

    Denim

    zTreatment of ready-made denim in drum-type washing machines

    zAdd to the last rinse 2 5 % o.w..g. Lava Jeans PRO

    zSet at pH 4 5 with acetic acidzBath temperature: 25 40 CzTreatment time: 10 minzLiquor ratio: 4:1 8:1 zNote: Applying common softening agent with Lava Jeans PRO can impair the impact of Lava Jeans PRO. Silicon softening agent should not be used because they increase the risk of yellowing.

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    GARMENT -CURE

    DyStar Process for wrinkle free garments

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Garment-Cure - The approved concept for non-iron and wrinkle-resistant finish on garments

    Garment-Cure - is an industry-proven method for wash and wear finishing of ready-made garmentssuch as trousers, skirts and shirts.

    Garment-Cure - meets the technological and ecologicaldemands of the market.

    DyStar GarmentDyStar Garment --CURE for GarmentsCURE for Garments

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Advantages of Garment-CURE: suitable for all ready-made garments made of natural

    cellulosic and man-made cellulosic fibres provides non-iron effects, if desired also with

    permanent crease prevents creasing during wear as well as after

    washing and tumble-drying (easy care) is fast to washing meets requirements of Ecotex-Standard 100

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    DyStar products for the Garment-CURE process:

    Evo Pret RCI self-cross linking DMDHEU resinEvo Soft VNI fatty acid softener Evo Soft ME silicone micro emulsionEvo Soft SNY elastomeric silicon micro emulsionEvo Soft ELP elastomeric macro silicon emulsionEvo Soft PEN softener for improvement of the tear strengthEvo Protect FSU fluorocarbon resin for water repellent finish (stain release)

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Application recipe:A. Dip-spinning:

    - liquor to goods ratio: 4 : 1 - 10 : 1- bath temperature: 25 - 40 C- pH value of the bath: 4.0 - 5.0- treatment time: 10 min

    100 % cotton trousers (proposal):25 - 50 g/l Evo Pret RCI5 - 20 g/l Evo Soft ME or SNY

    20 - 40 g/l Evo Soft VNI0 - 1 g/l Sera Wet M-DF

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    Denim trousers (pre-washed and neutralized):40 - 70 g/l Evo Pret RCI10 - 30 g/l Evo Soft VNI10 - 30 g/l Evo Soft PEN0 - 1 g/l Sera Wet M-DF

    Linen trousers:40 - 70 g/l Evo Pret RCI20 - 40 g/l Evo Soft VNI10 - 30 g/l Evo Soft SNY or

    Evo Soft ELP (prediluted)0 - 1 g/l Sera Wet M-DF

  • Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles

    RBD Garment Team10/06

    1. Hydroextract 80 - 100 % pick-up2. Tumble dry 80 100 C 10 - 20 % residual moisture3. Iron or topper treatment

    or press (if a perm. crease is requested):a. steam 5 - 10 sec b. press 10 - 15 sec. at 150 - 180 C no steamc. vacuum 3 - 5 sec.(pressure 4 - 7 bar . 28 - 42 psi)

    4.Cure in tunnel finisher or curing ovencotton trousers: 150 - 160 C / 6 - 10 mindenim trousers: 150 - 160 C / 10 - 15 minlinen trousers: 140 - 150 C / 8 - 10 min

    Drying and curing