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8 WANAKA EARTH TO HEAVEN AT WHARE KEA 9 SPRING EARTH TO HEAVEN AT WHARE KEA For the Love of Wanaka Foreword

Wanaka Earth to Heaven at Whare Kea

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A celebration of Wanaka's artisans, adventurers and magnificent landscape. Photography by Kieran Scott, Author Michal McKay

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• 8 •

WANAKA • EARTH TO HEAVEN AT WHARE KEA

• 9 •

SPRING • EARTH TO HEAVEN AT WHARE KEA

For the Love of Wanaka

Foreword

WanakaTXTspring_FNL.indd 8-9 29/06/11 9:13 AM

• 36 •• 36 •

WANAKA • SPRING • FISHING

• 37 •

WANAKA • SPRING • FISHING

ew Zealand is a fisherman’s mecca, but when it comes to the specific art of fly fishing, Wanaka, with its rivers and streams teeming with trout, is a paradise. The choice of waters in which to stake your claim to a catch is almost overwhelming, and it won’t be long before you spot the sparkle of a shiny fin as a three-kilo trout snakes through a stream.

Dry or wet? Casting upstream with a dry fly or across stream with a wet fly is the concept, and with luck a fish will rise to take the bait. This is a business requiring minimal conversation and maximum quiet, so seekers of solitude and thinkers of silent thoughts make the best fly fishers. And even the most garrulous can reveal a hidden side once they’ve put on their waders — a love of getting away from the crowds and into the peace of remote areas that offer a stretch of river for them alone.

The crystal-clear water and the rewards of very big brown and rainbow trout make the Matukituki River a true fishing dream. The Makarora has many different tributaries and the main river — which, like the Matukituki, flows into Lake Wanaka — is regarded by those in the know as one of the best road-accessible rivers. With a massive catchment, there’s room for both visitors and the Makarora locals.

Meanwhile, the cascading, braided Hunter and its sister the Dingle Burn, which both flow into Lake Hawea, offer remote but attractive fishing. For the less intrepid, there’s Timaru Creek on the eastern side south of the Dingle Burn — not so remote but, even so, full of fish.

The Clutha’s upper reaches — from Lake Wanaka down to Lake Dunstan — are full of brown and rainbow trout. The willow-lined banks of the middle reaches make fishing tricky. Most locals offer tips to anyone who will lend half an ear at the pub, but the fishing fraternity holds its information close — divulging a prized fly-fishing spot can certainly reduce its bountiful return, if not wipe it out. What’s more, rivers can change after winter floods and old favourites can disappear, especially early in the season, but the guides will be in the know.

Fishing

N

WanakaTXTspring_FNL.indd 36-37 29/06/11 9:14 AM

• 36 •• 36 •

WANAKA • SPRING • FISHING

• 37 •

WANAKA • SPRING • FISHING

ew Zealand is a fisherman’s mecca, but when it comes to the specific art of fly fishing, Wanaka, with its rivers and streams teeming with trout, is a paradise. The choice of waters in which to stake your claim to a catch is almost overwhelming, and it won’t be long before you spot the sparkle of a shiny fin as a three-kilo trout snakes through a stream.

Dry or wet? Casting upstream with a dry fly or across stream with a wet fly is the concept, and with luck a fish will rise to take the bait. This is a business requiring minimal conversation and maximum quiet, so seekers of solitude and thinkers of silent thoughts make the best fly fishers. And even the most garrulous can reveal a hidden side once they’ve put on their waders — a love of getting away from the crowds and into the peace of remote areas that offer a stretch of river for them alone.

The crystal-clear water and the rewards of very big brown and rainbow trout make the Matukituki River a true fishing dream. The Makarora has many different tributaries and the main river — which, like the Matukituki, flows into Lake Wanaka — is regarded by those in the know as one of the best road-accessible rivers. With a massive catchment, there’s room for both visitors and the Makarora locals.

Meanwhile, the cascading, braided Hunter and its sister the Dingle Burn, which both flow into Lake Hawea, offer remote but attractive fishing. For the less intrepid, there’s Timaru Creek on the eastern side south of the Dingle Burn — not so remote but, even so, full of fish.

The Clutha’s upper reaches — from Lake Wanaka down to Lake Dunstan — are full of brown and rainbow trout. The willow-lined banks of the middle reaches make fishing tricky. Most locals offer tips to anyone who will lend half an ear at the pub, but the fishing fraternity holds its information close — divulging a prized fly-fishing spot can certainly reduce its bountiful return, if not wipe it out. What’s more, rivers can change after winter floods and old favourites can disappear, especially early in the season, but the guides will be in the know.

Fishing

N

WanakaTXTspring_FNL.indd 36-37 29/06/11 9:14 AM

• 46 •• 46 •

WANAKA • SPRING • FROM THE KITCHEN

• 47 •

WANAKA • SPRING • FROM THE KITCHEN

Salmon Confit with Horseradish, Baby Peas and Vanilla Oil

FOR THE SALMON

320g salmon fillet, skinned and boned

1 clove garlic, cut in halfMaldon sea salt to taste10 coriander seedsfinely grated zest and juice of

½ lemon

FOR THE HORSERADISH

25g fresh horseradish, finely grated (a microplane is great for this)

100g crème fraîche1 teaspoon Dijon mustard1 teaspoon chardonnay vinegarpinch of sugar

FOR THE VANILLA OIL AND

BABY PEAS

25ml extra virgin olive oil½ vanilla bean16 fresh pea pods, podded8 basil leaves, julienned

TO SERVE

pea shoots for garnish

For the salmon Cut the salmon into portions of about 80g. Rub the salmon all over with the cut garlic then season generously with sea salt. Grind the coriander seeds using a mortar and pestle and sprinkle over the salmon then rub the lemon zest all over the salmon, reserving the juice. Allow to sit covered at room temperature for 25 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 65˚C. Place the salmon on an oven tray, drizzle with a little olive oil and cook in the

oven for 20–35 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish, until it feels firm. Remove from the oven and set aside.

For the horseradish Combine the horseradish, crème fraîche, mustard, vinegar and sugar in a bowl, and bring together with a whisk. Season with salt and pepper then refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

For the vanilla oil and baby peas Warm the olive oil with the vanilla pod and seeds (split lengthwise and scrape the seeds out) for about 2 minutes. Allow to cool. (This can be done the day before.)

Combine the baby peas and basil with a little vanilla oil and the lemon juice (fresh baby peas do not need to be cooked). Season with salt and pepper.

To serve Crack some pepper over the salmon then place on serving plates. Spoon the peas around the salmon and dress the fish with a little vanilla oil and a spoonful of horseradish. Garnish with a few pea shoots.

The divine combination of vanilla and fish, used for centuries in France, is rarely used nowadays. This dish is a celebration of quality ingredients — it is very important that the fish is extremely fresh, the peas need to have just been picked and the extra virgin olive oil

must be excellent quality. If you can get hold of trout, it’s also perfect for this dish.

Serves 4

WanakaTXTspring_FNL.indd 46-47 29/06/11 9:15 AM

• 46 •• 46 •

WANAKA • SPRING • FROM THE KITCHEN

• 47 •

WANAKA • SPRING • FROM THE KITCHEN

Salmon Confit with Horseradish, Baby Peas and Vanilla Oil

FOR THE SALMON

320g salmon fillet, skinned and boned

1 clove garlic, cut in halfMaldon sea salt to taste10 coriander seedsfinely grated zest and juice of

½ lemon

FOR THE HORSERADISH

25g fresh horseradish, finely grated (a microplane is great for this)

100g crème fraîche1 teaspoon Dijon mustard1 teaspoon chardonnay vinegarpinch of sugar

FOR THE VANILLA OIL AND

BABY PEAS

25ml extra virgin olive oil½ vanilla bean16 fresh pea pods, podded8 basil leaves, julienned

TO SERVE

pea shoots for garnish

For the salmon Cut the salmon into portions of about 80g. Rub the salmon all over with the cut garlic then season generously with sea salt. Grind the coriander seeds using a mortar and pestle and sprinkle over the salmon then rub the lemon zest all over the salmon, reserving the juice. Allow to sit covered at room temperature for 25 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 65˚C. Place the salmon on an oven tray, drizzle with a little olive oil and cook in the

oven for 20–35 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish, until it feels firm. Remove from the oven and set aside.

For the horseradish Combine the horseradish, crème fraîche, mustard, vinegar and sugar in a bowl, and bring together with a whisk. Season with salt and pepper then refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

For the vanilla oil and baby peas Warm the olive oil with the vanilla pod and seeds (split lengthwise and scrape the seeds out) for about 2 minutes. Allow to cool. (This can be done the day before.)

Combine the baby peas and basil with a little vanilla oil and the lemon juice (fresh baby peas do not need to be cooked). Season with salt and pepper.

To serve Crack some pepper over the salmon then place on serving plates. Spoon the peas around the salmon and dress the fish with a little vanilla oil and a spoonful of horseradish. Garnish with a few pea shoots.

The divine combination of vanilla and fish, used for centuries in France, is rarely used nowadays. This dish is a celebration of quality ingredients — it is very important that the fish is extremely fresh, the peas need to have just been picked and the extra virgin olive oil

must be excellent quality. If you can get hold of trout, it’s also perfect for this dish.

Serves 4

WanakaTXTspring_FNL.indd 46-47 29/06/11 9:15 AM

• 54 •• 54 •

WANAKA • SPRING • HORSE RIDING

• 55 •

WANAKA • SPRING • HORSE RIDING

here is a lot to recommend about saddling up a horse and making your way through the countryside, splashing through a stream or two and stopping on a tussock hillside to unpack a picnic. It’s a pretty appealing way to see the terrain around Wanaka. The sunburnt stretches of land peppered with old poplars and knotted willows make horse trekking varied and

satisfying. After all, that’s how the pioneers got where they were going, so why not follow the same path and learn a little of times gone by in the process?

If you take the route into the Cardona Valley, for example, you’ll see a vast expanse of rugged, ragged rock face, here and there glowing green with an overlay of newly planted vines. Cardrona’s colourful goldrush history is captured in the Cardrona Hotel and the Cardrona Hall and Church, the venue for the annual Cardrona Folk Music Festival.

As your horse ambles along the tracks you have plenty of time to study the remarkable snow tussock, a unique grass of clumping growth. Originally burnt off by farmers to create more grass pasture, these days the snow tussock’s water-retention and erosion-prevention properties are better understood. It’s now regarded as a vital component of the Central Otago ecosystem.

As spring turns to early summer it becomes haymaking time, and you’ll pass tractors out on the valley-floor paddocks mowing, raking and baling. As you pass sheep station yards you’ll find plenty of activity. Elsewhere, venerable fruit trees are becoming laden with ripening apricots. With the wind in your face and gentle horse beneath you, meandering through this splendid landscape is a quiet but nonetheless marvellous adventure.

Horse Riding

T

WanakaTXTspring_FNL.indd 54-55 29/06/11 9:15 AM

• 54 •• 54 •

WANAKA • SPRING • HORSE RIDING

• 55 •

WANAKA • SPRING • HORSE RIDING

here is a lot to recommend about saddling up a horse and making your way through the countryside, splashing through a stream or two and stopping on a tussock hillside to unpack a picnic. It’s a pretty appealing way to see the terrain around Wanaka. The sunburnt stretches of land peppered with old poplars and knotted willows make horse trekking varied and

satisfying. After all, that’s how the pioneers got where they were going, so why not follow the same path and learn a little of times gone by in the process?

If you take the route into the Cardona Valley, for example, you’ll see a vast expanse of rugged, ragged rock face, here and there glowing green with an overlay of newly planted vines. Cardrona’s colourful goldrush history is captured in the Cardrona Hotel and the Cardrona Hall and Church, the venue for the annual Cardrona Folk Music Festival.

As your horse ambles along the tracks you have plenty of time to study the remarkable snow tussock, a unique grass of clumping growth. Originally burnt off by farmers to create more grass pasture, these days the snow tussock’s water-retention and erosion-prevention properties are better understood. It’s now regarded as a vital component of the Central Otago ecosystem.

As spring turns to early summer it becomes haymaking time, and you’ll pass tractors out on the valley-floor paddocks mowing, raking and baling. As you pass sheep station yards you’ll find plenty of activity. Elsewhere, venerable fruit trees are becoming laden with ripening apricots. With the wind in your face and gentle horse beneath you, meandering through this splendid landscape is a quiet but nonetheless marvellous adventure.

Horse Riding

T

WanakaTXTspring_FNL.indd 54-55 29/06/11 9:15 AM

• 116 •

WANAKA • SUMMER • FROM tHE KItCHEN

tea-smoked Duck with Nectarine, Pomegranate, Watercress and Feta

I like to serve smoked duck breast throughout the year, changing the accompaniments according to the season. In the summertime, Central Otago stone fruit — particularly

nectarines, peaches and cherries — are perfect with the smoky duck flavour.Serves 6

FOR THE MARINADE

¼ cup good-quality maple syrup¼ cup rock salt

3 cup soy sauce3 whole star anise1 cinnamon stick10 coriander seeds2 cloves garlic, crushed1 sprig each of fresh thyme and

fresh rosemary, leaves only

FOR THE DUCK

6 large duck breasts100g manuka smoking chips50g loose-leaf Earl Grey tea

TO SERVE

6 tablespoons olive oil2 tablespoons red wine vinegar3 nectarines, halved, stoned and

sliced1 bunch watercress, washed 100g Blue River feta, slicedseeds of 1 fresh pomegranate100g hazelnuts, roasted, peeled

and chopped6 tablespoons pomegranate

molasses

For the marinade In a bowl, mix all the ingredients together and set aside.

For the duck Score the skin of the duck breasts in a criss-cross pattern, place in the marinade and refrigerate for 4 hours, turning every hour.

Rinse off the marinade under running water, pat dry and allow the duck to come up to room temperature.

In a dry frying pan over moderate-low heat, place the duck skin-side down and cook until golden (around 5 minutes), ensuring it doesn’t burn. Place some tinfoil in an old, deep baking tray. Sprinkle the manuka chips and tea on the foil and place the tray over medium heat. Place a wire rack on the tray and place the duck skin-side up on the rack. Cover with foil and leave to smoke for about 4 minutes then turn the duck, cover with the foil again and take off the heat. Allow the duck to cool down on the smoker to pick up more flavour.

To serve Whisk the olive oil and vinegar together to make a vinaigrette. Dress the nectarines with a little of the vinaigrette then dress the watercress.

thinly slice the duck breasts lengthwise.On each plate, arrange layers of nectarine, feta and duck then sprinkle with

pomegranate seeds. top with watercress, a scattering of hazelnuts and a drizzle of pomegranate molasses.

WanakaTXTsummer_FNL.indd 116-117 29/06/11 9:27 AM

• 116 •

WANAKA • SUMMER • FROM tHE KItCHEN

tea-smoked Duck with Nectarine, Pomegranate, Watercress and Feta

I like to serve smoked duck breast throughout the year, changing the accompaniments according to the season. In the summertime, Central Otago stone fruit — particularly

nectarines, peaches and cherries — are perfect with the smoky duck flavour.Serves 6

FOR THE MARINADE

¼ cup good-quality maple syrup¼ cup rock salt

3 cup soy sauce3 whole star anise1 cinnamon stick10 coriander seeds2 cloves garlic, crushed1 sprig each of fresh thyme and

fresh rosemary, leaves only

FOR THE DUCK

6 large duck breasts100g manuka smoking chips50g loose-leaf Earl Grey tea

TO SERVE

6 tablespoons olive oil2 tablespoons red wine vinegar3 nectarines, halved, stoned and

sliced1 bunch watercress, washed 100g Blue River feta, slicedseeds of 1 fresh pomegranate100g hazelnuts, roasted, peeled

and chopped6 tablespoons pomegranate

molasses

For the marinade In a bowl, mix all the ingredients together and set aside.

For the duck Score the skin of the duck breasts in a criss-cross pattern, place in the marinade and refrigerate for 4 hours, turning every hour.

Rinse off the marinade under running water, pat dry and allow the duck to come up to room temperature.

In a dry frying pan over moderate-low heat, place the duck skin-side down and cook until golden (around 5 minutes), ensuring it doesn’t burn. Place some tinfoil in an old, deep baking tray. Sprinkle the manuka chips and tea on the foil and place the tray over medium heat. Place a wire rack on the tray and place the duck skin-side up on the rack. Cover with foil and leave to smoke for about 4 minutes then turn the duck, cover with the foil again and take off the heat. Allow the duck to cool down on the smoker to pick up more flavour.

To serve Whisk the olive oil and vinegar together to make a vinaigrette. Dress the nectarines with a little of the vinaigrette then dress the watercress.

thinly slice the duck breasts lengthwise.On each plate, arrange layers of nectarine, feta and duck then sprinkle with

pomegranate seeds. top with watercress, a scattering of hazelnuts and a drizzle of pomegranate molasses.

WanakaTXTsummer_FNL.indd 116-117 29/06/11 9:27 AM

• 170 •

WANAKA • AUTUMN • CANYONING

f ever an activity was designed to challenge both the body and mind, it’s canyoning. It is touted as a simple sport that even novices can take on, but it actually incorporates a range of outdoor skills and rolls them into one. It’s probably best undertaken by the fit and the fleet: scrambling, climbing, jumping and swimming are all required on the descent. The gear list says it

all: climbing hardware, ropes, helmets, thermal underwear, wetsuits, packs and rope bags — just for a start.

The greatest gorges, according to our guides, are round the Niger Stream and Phoebe Creek in the Matukituki Valley (named after Phoebe Seddon, the daughter of Premier Richard Seddon). But even their many jumps and slides, cascading waterfalls, water-chute drops and idyllic pools pale in comparison with Leaping Burn. It’s the big-time in canyoning terms — a 250-metre climb before dropping into the gorge and, once in, there’s no way out except the bottom. Expect to be wet at the end. Very.

Apart from thrills, canyoners are rewarded with a privileged, up-close encounter with the beauty of this area. The snowfields around the Niger sit there permanently. Turpentine scrub, snow grass, hebes and blue tussock merge across the valley, framed by snow totara and the beech looming high. A green parakeet will chirrup its welcome, a kea will make its raucous call or a kaka will chortle like a forest clown.

Canyoning

I

WanakaTXTautumn_FNL.indd 170-171 29/06/11 9:30 AM

• 170 •

WANAKA • AUTUMN • CANYONING

f ever an activity was designed to challenge both the body and mind, it’s canyoning. It is touted as a simple sport that even novices can take on, but it actually incorporates a range of outdoor skills and rolls them into one. It’s probably best undertaken by the fit and the fleet: scrambling, climbing, jumping and swimming are all required on the descent. The gear list says it

all: climbing hardware, ropes, helmets, thermal underwear, wetsuits, packs and rope bags — just for a start.

The greatest gorges, according to our guides, are round the Niger Stream and Phoebe Creek in the Matukituki Valley (named after Phoebe Seddon, the daughter of Premier Richard Seddon). But even their many jumps and slides, cascading waterfalls, water-chute drops and idyllic pools pale in comparison with Leaping Burn. It’s the big-time in canyoning terms — a 250-metre climb before dropping into the gorge and, once in, there’s no way out except the bottom. Expect to be wet at the end. Very.

Apart from thrills, canyoners are rewarded with a privileged, up-close encounter with the beauty of this area. The snowfields around the Niger sit there permanently. Turpentine scrub, snow grass, hebes and blue tussock merge across the valley, framed by snow totara and the beech looming high. A green parakeet will chirrup its welcome, a kea will make its raucous call or a kaka will chortle like a forest clown.

Canyoning

I

WanakaTXTautumn_FNL.indd 170-171 29/06/11 9:30 AM

• 286 •

WANAKA • A TOAST TO WANAKA • ARTiSANS

• 287 •

WANAKA • A TOAST TO WANAKA • ARTiSANS

in 1974 the late Rolfe Mills had a hunch that he could grow grapes on the family farm, so he planted some experimental vines. Rolfe had noticed the vineyards on schist slopes in the Douro Valley in France and had gleaned enough climatic knowledge to be convinced grapes would grow in Wanaka. And deliver.

Viticultural experts disagreed. They could not envisage any self-respecting grape reaching ripeness at this southern latitude, where snow lay on the ground in winter and frosts were so common, but Rolfe was determined. He and his wife, Lois, planted a few rows on the steep bank at the back of the house and so this Central Otago subregion began. in 1982 the first commercial vineyard block was planted in pinot noir, riesling, gewürztraminer and sauvignon blanc — varieties most suited to the continental-like climate.

That he would take such a chance is hardly surprising. Rolfe, who died in 2000, came from a rich pioneering heritage. His grandfather was Percy Sargood, whose father, Frederick Sargood, founded the eminent Australasian merchant business Sargood, Son & ewen in the mid-1800s. By the early 1900s, Percy ran the business and bought Wanaka Station, a vast run that flanked the Upper Clutha basin, in 1912.

Now Rippon — named after Percy’s grandmother, emma Rippon — is run under the canny hand of Rolfe and Lois’ son Nick, who came back home after four years of winemaking in Burgundy, and his wife Jo, a winemaker in her own right. The 15-hectare vineyard has two distinct areas, Lakeside and the Hillside. in both, the vines are planted in decomposing schist soils but each block has a distinct character, bringing a unique taste and feel to the wines, which are mostly pinot noir and riesling.

Rippon is an artisan winery known for its special approach to the vines. As Jo explains, ‘We base our planting on biodynamics, the theory developed by Rudolf Steiner in the early twentieth century. The idea of it scares a lot of people but in a

Nick and Jo MillsThe glorious Rippon vineyard, set on the shore of Lake Wanaka, has been described as one of the most beautiful in the world. Its story is that of a determined visionary, who achieved the unthinkable.

WanakaTXTToastWanaka_FNL.indd 286-287 29/06/11 9:36 AM

• 286 •

WANAKA • A TOAST TO WANAKA • ARTiSANS

• 287 •

WANAKA • A TOAST TO WANAKA • ARTiSANS

in 1974 the late Rolfe Mills had a hunch that he could grow grapes on the family farm, so he planted some experimental vines. Rolfe had noticed the vineyards on schist slopes in the Douro Valley in France and had gleaned enough climatic knowledge to be convinced grapes would grow in Wanaka. And deliver.

Viticultural experts disagreed. They could not envisage any self-respecting grape reaching ripeness at this southern latitude, where snow lay on the ground in winter and frosts were so common, but Rolfe was determined. He and his wife, Lois, planted a few rows on the steep bank at the back of the house and so this Central Otago subregion began. in 1982 the first commercial vineyard block was planted in pinot noir, riesling, gewürztraminer and sauvignon blanc — varieties most suited to the continental-like climate.

That he would take such a chance is hardly surprising. Rolfe, who died in 2000, came from a rich pioneering heritage. His grandfather was Percy Sargood, whose father, Frederick Sargood, founded the eminent Australasian merchant business Sargood, Son & ewen in the mid-1800s. By the early 1900s, Percy ran the business and bought Wanaka Station, a vast run that flanked the Upper Clutha basin, in 1912.

Now Rippon — named after Percy’s grandmother, emma Rippon — is run under the canny hand of Rolfe and Lois’ son Nick, who came back home after four years of winemaking in Burgundy, and his wife Jo, a winemaker in her own right. The 15-hectare vineyard has two distinct areas, Lakeside and the Hillside. in both, the vines are planted in decomposing schist soils but each block has a distinct character, bringing a unique taste and feel to the wines, which are mostly pinot noir and riesling.

Rippon is an artisan winery known for its special approach to the vines. As Jo explains, ‘We base our planting on biodynamics, the theory developed by Rudolf Steiner in the early twentieth century. The idea of it scares a lot of people but in a

Nick and Jo MillsThe glorious Rippon vineyard, set on the shore of Lake Wanaka, has been described as one of the most beautiful in the world. Its story is that of a determined visionary, who achieved the unthinkable.

WanakaTXTToastWanaka_FNL.indd 286-287 29/06/11 9:36 AM

• 288 •

WANAKA • A TOAST TO WANAKA • ARTiSANS

• 289 •

WANAKA • A TOAST TO WANAKA • ARTiSANS

way it’s purely mechanical. Our only fertiliser is compost and the principle aim is to create vins de terroir [wines that reflect their environment].

‘The philosophy is actually very simple. By metabolising minerals into forms the vines can absorb, the soil’s micro-life provides the link between plants and earth. And really it’s just getting all the elements in sync: the site, the soil, the climate and the human element, of course. it’s a matter of listening to the land and making the vines work for themselves. if you push them they’ll work for you.’

To Jo it’s logical: ‘After all, if you ask the earth what it wants, it is not going to say “5000 vines per hectare”! So it’s a matter of putting something back to keep the balance right.’ The end result? Healthy fruit.

Jo is passionate about the land. A London lass, she got seriously interested in wine through Oddbins Wine Merchant’s wine tastings at university, and spent all her holidays putting herself through the wine trade’s exams and immersing herself in the world region. She planned to go to Spain and learn Spanish but instead landed a job with a small French wine firm so she could really learn the trade. And was on her way.

The whole Mills family is involved with Rippon in some way. Nick’s brother, David, is property manager; his sister Charlie is part of the vineyard team; Lois, 30 years after her and Rolfe’s dream was realised, now spends half the year in Burgundy and during harvest returns to mind an ever-increasing family.

Together the fourth-generation Mills duo is always looking at new developments and opportunities. They are planning a new winery that will enable them to bottle on-site. And a spectacular new tasting room made of rammed earth has just been finished. Jo explains: ‘Any new buildings must be of the land and in line with the whole philosophy of the winery.’ Naturally.

WanakaTXTToastWanaka_FNL.indd 288-289 29/06/11 9:36 AM

• 288 •

WANAKA • A TOAST TO WANAKA • ARTiSANS

• 289 •

WANAKA • A TOAST TO WANAKA • ARTiSANS

way it’s purely mechanical. Our only fertiliser is compost and the principle aim is to create vins de terroir [wines that reflect their environment].

‘The philosophy is actually very simple. By metabolising minerals into forms the vines can absorb, the soil’s micro-life provides the link between plants and earth. And really it’s just getting all the elements in sync: the site, the soil, the climate and the human element, of course. it’s a matter of listening to the land and making the vines work for themselves. if you push them they’ll work for you.’

To Jo it’s logical: ‘After all, if you ask the earth what it wants, it is not going to say “5000 vines per hectare”! So it’s a matter of putting something back to keep the balance right.’ The end result? Healthy fruit.

Jo is passionate about the land. A London lass, she got seriously interested in wine through Oddbins Wine Merchant’s wine tastings at university, and spent all her holidays putting herself through the wine trade’s exams and immersing herself in the world region. She planned to go to Spain and learn Spanish but instead landed a job with a small French wine firm so she could really learn the trade. And was on her way.

The whole Mills family is involved with Rippon in some way. Nick’s brother, David, is property manager; his sister Charlie is part of the vineyard team; Lois, 30 years after her and Rolfe’s dream was realised, now spends half the year in Burgundy and during harvest returns to mind an ever-increasing family.

Together the fourth-generation Mills duo is always looking at new developments and opportunities. They are planning a new winery that will enable them to bottle on-site. And a spectacular new tasting room made of rammed earth has just been finished. Jo explains: ‘Any new buildings must be of the land and in line with the whole philosophy of the winery.’ Naturally.

WanakaTXTToastWanaka_FNL.indd 288-289 29/06/11 9:36 AM