Walmart USA Apparel Quality Testing Manual - New … · Walmart USA Apparel Quality Testing Manual . ... internal testing, operator ... Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test

WM USA Apparel Manual Revised: November 2011

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Walmart USA Apparel Quality Testing Manual Issued May 2008 Revised November 2011


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Table of Contents 1. Introduction ...................................................................................................... 6

1.1. Color Process ................................................................................................. 7 1.2. Pre-Production and Production Testing ........................................................ 7 1.3. In-Store Quality Audit ...................................................................................... 7

2. Regulatory Compliance ............................................................................ 8 3. Testing Process for Apparel .................................................................. 9

3.1. National Brands Testing Process ................................................................... 9 3.2. Supplier Tier Testing Process ........................................................................ 9

3.3. In-Store Quality Audit Process ....................................................................... 10 3.4. Walmart Exception Orders .............................................................................. 11

3.5. Test Report Ratings ......................................................................................... 13

3.6. Defect Classification ....................................................................................... 13

3.7. Testing Turn-Around Time .............................................................................. 14

3.8. What to Submit ................................................................................................ 14

3.9. When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples .......................... 15

3.10. Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples .................... 15

3.11. Flammability Test Process for Childrens Sleepwear .............................. 16


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4. Childrens Apparel ....................................................................................... 18

4.1. Private Brand Garments .................................................................................. 18

4.2. Childrens Apparel Mechanical Hazards ........................................................ 18

4.3. Apparel Trim/Hardware ................................................................................... 19 4.3.1 Press Fasteners ....................................................................................... 19

Approved Press Fastener Suppliers

4.3.2 Zippers ...................................................................................................... 20 Invisible Concealed Zippers Zipper Pulls Zipper Pull Attachments Approved Zipper Suppliers

4.3.3 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders ..................................................... 23

Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers

4.3.4 D-Rings .................................................................................................... 23

4.4. Drawstrings, Cords & Ties (Functional and Decorative) .................................. 24 4.5. Adjustable Waistbands ................................................................................... 25

4.6. Sashes & Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) ........................ 25

4.7. Belts ................................................................................................................. 26

4.8. Bath Robes ....................................................................................................... 28

4.9. Fixed Bows ....................................................................................................... 28

4.10. Functional & Decorative Loops ................................................................ 29

Belt Loops Back Neck (locker) Loops Hanger Loops Hammer Loops

4.11. Hats/Caps ..................................................................................................... 30 Under-Chin Ties on Hats Under-Chin Straps on Hats

4.12. Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs .............................................. 32


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4.13. Neck Ties ...................................................................................................... 32

4.14. Toggles & Toggle Buttons .......................................................................... 32

Toggles Toggle Buttons Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) / Spring Loaded Toggles Decorative Application Functional Application

4.15. Button and Buttonsew ................................................................................ 34

Buttons Buttonsew

4.16. Hook & Loop Fastener Tape ....................................................................... 35

4.17. Thread Ends & Float Threads ..................................................................... 35

4.18. Decorative Trims & Embellishments ......................................................... 36

Appliqus & Embroidery Beads & Jewels Sequins Diamante (Rhinestones) & Metal Studs Pom-Poms & Fringe Fake (Faux) Fur Natural Feathers

4.19. Miscellaneous Requirements ..................................................................... 37

4.20. Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrens Bibs ........................................................ 37

5. Performance Specifications .................................................................. 38

5.1. General Requirements .................................................................................... 38

5.2. Colorfastness Properties ................................................................................ 39 5.3. Woven Fabrics ................................................................................................. 41

Woven Natural Cellulosic Woven Man-made Cellulosic Origin Woven Man-made Synthetic Woven Silk, Wool, Animal Hair Denim Woven Pile Fabrics


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5.4. Knit Fabrics ...................................................................................................... 46

Weft Knits Warp Knits Knit Undergarments Hosiery - Socks and Tights Sweaters

5.5. Leather/Suede Apparel .................................................................................... 50 5.6. Accessories ...................................................................................................... 51

Belts, Caps, Ear Muffs, Gloves, Hair Accessories, Hats, Mittens, Neckties, Scarves, Ski Headbands, Ski Masks, Stocking Caps, Suspenders and Pet Accessories

5.7. Products with Special Claims ......................................................................... 53 5.8. Zipper Performance Standards ...................................................................... 54

Appendix A ........................................................................................................... 55 Defect Type Classifications

Appendix B ........................................................................................................... 67

Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process

Appendix C ........................................................................................................... 68 Childrens Body Weight Tables

Appendix D ........................................................................................................... 69 Material Adoption Process (MAP) Appendix E ...75

Trim Suppliers Appendix F ........................................................................................................... 77 Mill Blank Suppliers Appendix G ........................................................................................................... 78 Color Manual


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WALMART Stores, Inc.

1. INTRODUCTION

This Walmart Apparel manual specifies materials, construction, and test procedures that have been developed by the Apparel Technical Team, various standards bodies, regulatory agencies, and independent labs. The objective of the test program is to ensure that Walmart apparel meets or exceed these performance standards as listed in this manual. Additionally suppliers must be involved in-depth with the manufacturing processes of their products including Quality Assurance, internal testing, operator training, in line inspection, root cause analysis of defects and corrective actions taken in the factory to stop non compliant product at the source. An increased focus on quality has been implemented at Walmart and we are committed to offering only the best quality products to our customers. You as a supplier are expected to deliver these defect free quality products and will be held accountable for allowing non-compliant product into the supply chain. This manual is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying. Irrespective of whether the supplier meets the requirements set forth in this manual, suppliers are still responsible for all aspects of the quality, safety and compliance of their merchandise. If you are in doubt as to the applicability of any law, standard, or regulation that applies to products that you intend to supply to Walmart, please seek advice from your legal counsel or Technical Representative.


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1.1 Color Process

The Walmart color testing process is managed by Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL) in conjunction with Walmart Associates. The color manual is published in Retail Link at Retail Link > Site Map > CTL Documentation USA > Color or at the following web address: https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rl_docs/adp/ENG/6F50B445F098422C938057168713F74C.pdf The manual will guide you through our color approval process from substrate submission to Lab Dip Electronic, Lab Dip, Shade Band Electronic, to Shade Band testing. Please refer to the Walmart Apparel Color testing manual for all color approval questions.

NOTE: The color approval process is not connected to the Pre-production and Production testing process. Color is only tested for color performance and not color matching during the Pre-production and Production Testing process. This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for Pre-production Testing and/or Production Testing.

NOTE: Color testing is done by CTL in either the Hong Kong Color Lab or the Bentonville Color Lab. Pre-production Testing and/or Production Testing can be done in any geographic location regardless of where the color is being approved.

1.2 Pre-Production and Production Testing

The purpose of Pre-Production testing is to assess performance against Walmart quality standards before production so that problems can be addressed and revised before proceeding to production. Pre-Production testing is required for all domestic and direct import products and should be completed 60 days prior to ship date. A passing report is your approval to cut garments and proceed to production. Production testing is required for all items regardless of label or supplier. The test should be performed at 10% completion of the production and 30 days before ship date. The purpose of the test is to verify that the materials and workmanship used in production meet or exceeds the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to the Gold Seal sample. Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3. 1.3 In-Store Quality Audit This phase of testing confirms that the mass produced apparel items meet or exceed the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to production sample. Only top quality items that pass testing will remain in store. Product that fails testing will be subject to withdraw. Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3.

https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rl_docs/adp/ENG/6F50B445F098422C938057168713F74C.pdf


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2. REGULATORY COMPLIANCE

Walmart is committed to providing our customers with safe products that comply with all appropriate regulations and standards. Walmart suppliers must comply with all laws, including Federal, State, and Local laws as required under the Supplier Agreement. Walmart reserves the right to monitor compliance through inspection, testing, or audits.

The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory and safety requirements for apparel. There is zero tolerance for critical regulatory failures that are discovered in our stores and non-compliant product will be withdrawn from the stores. Walmart Product Safety and Compliance regulatory requirements can be accessed through Retail Link filed under Retail Link > Site Map > Product Safety and Compliance Library or at the following web address:

https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rlFileUpload/main.aspx?topic=5&ukey=W4684

Suppliers should visit this site regularly to keep abreast of the latest changes and new Walmart requirements. This site is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying.

Walmart does not provide legal advice to its suppliers. Suppliers should seek their own legal counsel on how to comply with all laws applicable to their product.

For information on Product Safety & Compliance, please visit the following web sites:

Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act http://www.cpsc.gov/ABOUT/Cpsia/cpsia.html

California Air Resource Board Formaldehyde in Composite Wood Products http://www.arb.ca.gov/toxics/compwood/compwood.htm

Lacey Act

http://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant_health/lacey_act/index.shtml

Questions

[email protected]

https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rlFileUpload/main.aspx?topic=5&ukey=W4684http://www.cpsc.gov/ABOUT/Cpsia/cpsia.htmlhttp://www.arb.ca.gov/toxics/compwood/compwood.htmhttp://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant_health/lacey_act/index.shtmlmailto:[email protected]


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3. Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself. It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers. The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory. 3.1 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols. Note: The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise. No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color is used Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and exempt for high performing domestic

suppliers. Production Testing is required for all styles In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliers performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers. National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the Apparel Technical Team for resolution. In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the Apparel Technical Team. In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance. In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the Apparel Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores. Note: A second Production level test is required for all Childrens items which remain in stores longer than 6 months. 3.2 Test Performance Incentive Supplier Tiering is no longer applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel. It has been replaced with an in-store test performance procedure:

National Brand Suppliers with an acceptable quality scorecard of


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The exemptions will be valid as long as the in-store test fail percentage remains


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High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails.

- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest at

the direction of the Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands. High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to retesting

for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by the Apparel Technical team.

The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart below.

The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by pulling

equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country. The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per

acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below. For the purpose of High Sampling Retest, multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection.

The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard), Special Inspection Level S-4, Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard).

Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects:

acceptance/rejection Up to 10,000 pieces 32 pieces 2 / 3 10,001 to 35,000 pieces 50 pieces 3 / 4 35,001 to 500,000 pieces 80 pieces 5 / 6 500,001 and up 125 pieces 7 / 8 3.4 Walmart Exception Orders

Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy. These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process, while maintaining safety, quality and consistency of product. Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends. Note: Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order. Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style # for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable), purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders. All test results must be satisfactory to ship.


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Identification Type of Order Prefix

Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Graphic Tee GT

Note: Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply. Childrens garments will also be tested for CPSIA requirements. Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing

Order Verified by VP/ Senior

Category Director

*Color *Gold Seal (Fit)

*Aesthetic Pre-Production

Production In-Store

Fast Fashion A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting.

Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required

Pick Up Buy An order where goods already exist. **For National or licensed brand only. For private label & proprietary see Apparel Development Manual

Required Not required Not required

Required Not required Required Required

Test Order An order where units are small to test future buys.

Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required

Emerging Brand Brands new to Walmart.

Required Not required Not required

Required Required Required Required

Mill Blanks- Adults and Children

Not required

Not required

Not required


Graphic Tee- Adults and Children

Not required

Not required

Not required


Dot Com (this does not apply to add-on orders)

Not required

Not required

Not required

Required Not required Required Not required


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*Note: Gold Seal approvals only apply to Walmart Private/Proprietary Label Brands. Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart Private/Proprietary Label requirements:

https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rl_posting/view_review.aspx?docid=2797&ukey=W4083

*Note: The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults, kids, and baby. All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual. Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal. 3.5 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways: Pass, Marginal Pass or Fail. This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings. It will also determine future testing requirements. PASS: The sample has no Critical Regulatory, Critical Walmart, Major, or Minor Defects as defined in section 3.6 and as listed in Appendix A. MARGINAL PASS: All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards, as decided by the laboratory, will be rated Marginal Pass. Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods. In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue, these ratings could

result in future test failure. Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and implement a

running change in the manufacturing process for future orders improvement. Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating.

FAIL: The sample has Critical Regulatory, Critical Walmart, or Major Defects as defined in section 3.6 and as listed in Appendix A. 3.6 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect. Defect classification will determine the Pass, Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report. Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications:

Critical Regulatory Product that is non-compliant with government regulations. Critical Walmart Walmart requirements that are not covered by law. Major Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return

Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications.

https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rl_posting/view_review.aspx?docid=2797&ukey=W4083https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rl_posting/view_review.aspx?docid=2797&ukey=W4083


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3.7 Laboratories Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time

Standard Testing Turn-Around Time Suppliers should partner with the 3rd party testing facilities to determine appropriate turn times for testing. Certain products may require specialized testing protocols, and therefore may need extended time for testing. The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples. 3.8 The Suppliers Commitment - What to Submit

Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims, hardware, and attachments, along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores. A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical:

Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction Department Number

Pre-Production Retest Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical, major, and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the Apparel Technical Team. The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production. The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples. Production When 10% of garment production is complete, the supplier must schedule either BV or CTL to visit the factory and randomly pull and chop the test samples from the production line representative of all sizes and colorways. For each body style, the 3rd party must chop two garments of each colorway. The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size. Samples submitted by the supplier or factory without being sealed and chopped by a 3rd party will not be accepted. Note: Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure. (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process). Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team. Production Retest Production retests for Walmart critical, major, and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the Apparel Technical Team. The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service, require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment, retest, submit a CAP addressing the failure, or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action, etc. The order may not ship without a passing production test report.


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Premium Gift with Purchase Program A premium gift with purchase is defined as an item/gift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item. The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing. Once the premium gift product receives a passing test, the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item, the gift with the passing test report, and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory. Additional Suppliers Documentation The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable:

- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP).

- Supporting documentation for labeled claims, such as chemical free. - Organic Cotton Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton

Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product. Note: All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab. An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports, which have a two (2) year period. 3.9 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing. As per direction from Walmart, the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements. This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders, and if testing is not complete, the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows: Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to the

shipping date. Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the

shipping date. If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing 15

days prior to the shipping date, the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form.

3.10 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory. All suppliers, both Domestic and Direct Import, have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory. However, once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing, all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items, Production and Retest, must occur in the same facility.


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3.11 Flammability Testing Process for Childrens Sleepwear (16 CFR 1615/1616) This testing process applies to all childrens sleepwear items such as nightgowns, pajamas, or similar related items such as robes and loungewear, which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping. All fabric production units (FPU), all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment. Note: No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing. No exceptions are allowed. Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrens sleepwear flammability test. Submitting Samples for Childrens Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing. Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan Fabric Production Units (FPU) When submitting fabric for flammability testing, send at least

two (2) yards of the production quality fabric; at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5,000 yard unit. If the unit is made up of only one piece, at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece. Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end).

Note: If the 50x wash requirement applies, send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU. Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end.

Prototype Seam When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing, make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested. The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment.

Prototype Trim When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing, provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment.

Note: Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes.

The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below:

- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing or

attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric. If more than one row of trim is used on the garment, the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment.


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- Garments with Other Trim Configurations Prepare the specimens by sewing or attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric. Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen.

Note: For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment. The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment, using the same stitching or seam type.

Production Testing for Flammability When submitting production garments for flammability

testing, randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type.

Testing Application Form for Flammability A completed Testing Application Form must be

included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing. Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers.

Note: If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing, the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum).


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4. CHILDRENS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures. This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrens Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address: https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rlFileUpload/main.aspx?topic=5&ukey=W4684 4.1 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners, zippers, dungaree clips (hasps) thread, and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier. If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier, the testing laboratory will require documentation (i.e. invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier. For the approved list of trim suppliers, please refer to Appendix E. 4.2 Childrens Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrens apparel, such as zippers, drawstrings, fasteners, and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use, or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse.

For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size.

Size Age

0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs

Girls 4-6X / Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 / Boys 8-20 9 yrs & up

Note: For clarity, the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrens ages) when specifying requirements.

Small Parts Labeling Products with certain small part decorative trims and embellishments may need to have an additional hangtag attached to the garment. For childrens apparel sizes 46x (girls) / 47 (boys), the following hangtag must be attached to the garment if the garment contains:

- Small part embellishments such as rhinestones, beads, jewels, sequins, etc. OR - Cords/ties/belts made from metal chain.

https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rlFileUpload/main.aspx?topic=5&ukey=W4684


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Garments with functional hardware only (such as buttons, snaps, etc.), must not provide this hangtag. THE CHOKING HAZARD WARNING MUST NOT BE USED ON CHILDRENS APPAREL SIZES 0-5T. THE CHOKING HAZARD WARNING MUST NOT BE USED ON GARMENTS WITHOUT DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENTS OR METAL CHAIN. FUNCTIONAL COMPONENTS (such as snaps, buttons) ARE NOT DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENTS.

4.3 Apparel Trim/Hardware

4.3.1 Press Fasteners

Press fasteners used on childrens apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic.

Plastic press fasteners for all childrens apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from

an approved trim supplier, as listed in Appendix E.

Exception: Vinyl like wearing apparel (e.g. raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up. This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T.

Press fasteners used on childrens apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the knee

area, or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort.

POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE


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STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS / EYELETS Approved Press Fastener Suppliers All press fasteners must be from an approved source, as listed in Appendix E. Use of an

unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab. Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted. Exception: National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual, or as required by law.

4.3.2 Zippers

Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrens apparel sizes 0-5T.

Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a

bottom stop for childrens apparel sizes 0-5T. Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrens apparel sizes 0-5T.

Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off. Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the

examples below) are not permitted for childrens apparel sizes 0-5T.

Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent the

zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin).

Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types. If metal stops are used,

prongs must face away from the childs body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching. All top / bottom stops must be securely attached.


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Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisible/concealed zippers are not permitted for childrens apparel sizes 05T.

INVISIBLE / CONCEALED ZIPPER

Zipper Pulls

A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper. It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull.

Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrens apparel sizes 05T.

Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls), is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body the pull is clamped onto the ring.

Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body.

Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrens apparel sizes 05T.

Ring Pull Open Design Pulls

One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrens apparel sizes 4 and

up, providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch.

Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a bar

tack or similar secure attachment method.


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Elastic pulls are not acceptable on children's apparel sizes 0-6x (girls), and 0-7 (boys). For sizes where they are allowed, elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state.

Wadded/filled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrens apparel sizes 05T. Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrens apparel sizes 05T.

Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrens apparel sizes 0-6X (girls) or 0-7

(boys). Zipper pull attachments used on childrens apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum length

requirement indicated below.

Approved Zipper Suppliers

All zippers must be from an approved source, as listed in Appendix E. Zippers from any other sources are not permitted.

Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the

components shown below. Zipper components (e.g. top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled.

Position of Zipper Pull Attachment Maximum Length At the ends of long skirts or trousers 1 in

At the ends of long sleeves 1 in At center plackets 1 in All other locations 2 in


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Exception: National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual, or as required by law. 4.3.3 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders

There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider. This is to prevent potential injury during wear, as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp. All joins must be securely covered with fabric.

For childrens apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment.

Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and, therefore must be attached after metal detection.

Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source, as listed in Appendix E.

Exception: National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual, or as required by law.

4.3.4 D-Rings (attached on garments)

D-Rings are not permitted on childrens garments sizes 0-5T. D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrens apparel. All metal D-Rings used on childrens apparel or on items included with childrens apparel

must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector. This includes metallic finishes.

There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring. This is to prevent potential injury during wear

as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp. All joins must be securely covered with fabric.


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The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment.

D-Rings

4.4 Drawstrings, Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)

Access the Childrens Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address: https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rlFileUpload/main.aspx?topic=5&ukey=W4684

Definitions

Drawstring - Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel, casing, loops, eyelets, or similar, has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.

Continuous drawstring - Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment, has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening. Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring.

Cords & / Ties (functional) - Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material, which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.

Cords & Ties (decorative) Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes.

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4.5 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center back to

prevent the band from being pulled out.

4.6 Sashes & Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 inch in width. Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied. It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes are

untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment. Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be

removed.

Definitions

Sashes / Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top, which is intended to be tied in the back.


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The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches. (measured from the point

where they are to be tied).

Size 4 and up Sash & Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they

cannot be removed. The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the point

where they are to be tied).

It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes are

untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 4.7 Belts

Belts - General Requirements

Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed.

Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied. Buckles / D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to garments

intended for sizes 0-5T. Belts with buckles / D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for sizes 0-

5T, provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length.


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Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams, at a minimum,

to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied.

Belts Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)

Belt Type Garment Size

0-5T 4-20

Belts with Buckles / D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted

5 inches Belts with Buckles / D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches

Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches

Measurement Criteria

All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment.

Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied.

Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end.

Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole. For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (e.g. a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end).

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Belts without punched holes (e.g. braided belts, belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts with

punched holes around the entire belt; the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat. The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end.

4.8 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for belts. 4.9 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center. The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch, a heat

seal or laser cut. The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths.

05T Girls: 420 / Boys: 420 Loops Tails Loops Tails

Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3 3 3 5

Fixed Bows (located at the Hood, Neck, Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1 1 1 1

The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack, or from the exit point

as shown below:

Bartacks

No visible bartack, loops are measured from exit points.

Bartack at both sides of bow, loops are measured from bartacks.


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4.10 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops. The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end, the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment.

Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment. Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks. Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside of a

garment only. Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrens apparel sizes 0-5T. Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break away

under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C). Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrens apparel; however they must be designed in such a way

that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3" in length.

3 x 3 maximum with center bartack


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4.11 Hats / Caps Hat / Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (e.g. religious clothing). INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT

Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements:

Ties are not continuous.

Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length, when measured from the point of securement.

Ties are not constructed of elastic.

Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends. Pom-poms, tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties. Hats / Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrens hats / caps. Chinstraps must meet the following requirements:

Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin. The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each side of

the hat / cap. Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin. Hats / Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms, tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (e.g. chinstraps, ties).


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Decorative trim, when allowed, must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 4.18 of the manual. Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels Tassels used on hats for children, must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin. (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn).

PERMITTED

NOT PERMITTED

Decorative trim, when allowed, must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 4.18 of the manual.


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4.12 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood and

neck area.

The use of hook and loop tape, self fabric, snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as alternative

fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs.

4.13 Neck Ties Neck ties are allowed for all sizes.

For sizes 0-5T, the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C).

4.14 Toggles & Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrens apparel sizes 0-5T, must not be constructed of wood, cork, leather,

mother of pearl (shell), glass or other non-durable material. All metal toggles used on childrens apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass

through a metal detector. This includes metallic finishes. Toggles must only be used on drawstrings, cords or ties that have no free ends. In addition, free

ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop.


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Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort. Toggles in the knee

area are not allowed. Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to the

toggle button as possible, while still being functional. Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference.

Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) / Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative or

functional application. However, below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for, and also the method of attachment.

Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrens apparel as a decorative application.

The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords:

Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood, or Neck area. The cord must be securely attached to the garment. Elastic cords can only be used on childrens apparel sizes 12M and above. The pig nose/spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot

be removed from the garment. The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment.

The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 3/8 from the eyelet or buttonhole.


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Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrens apparel as a functional

application. The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords:

- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood, or Neck area.

- The pig nose (cord lock)/spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of

the cord so it cannot be removed.

- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely out of the garment.

- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3 when the cord is cinched to the body

and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended.

- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring. 4.15 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrens apparel sizes 0-5T, must not be constructed of wood, cork, leather,

mother of pearl (shell), glass or other non-durable material. Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrens apparel sizes 05T. Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrens apparel sizes 05T. Spare buttons are not permitted for childrens apparel sizes 0-5T. Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrens apparel sizes

0-5T.

3/8


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4.16 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrens apparel sizes 0-5T. Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener tape is

in direct contact with the skin. The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and

prevent potential irritation to the skin. 4.17 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrens apparel sizes

0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of inch. Thread ends in the hand/finger area of mittens/gloves must not be over inch for sizes 0-6M. For footed garments, socks, or booties intended for sizes 0-6M, with a seam around the sole, the

start / stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area. Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on

apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M.

Float Threads (0-6M)

Socks, Booties, or Footed Garments

Foot Area Not permitted

Non-Foot Area inch maximum length

Mittens

Hand / Finger Area Not permitted

Other Areas

(other than foot or hand area) inch maximum length


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4.18 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrens apparel sizes 0-5T. Beads or jewels used on other childrens apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal, glass, or

wood. Sequins For childrens apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around each

sequin, as shown below.

Sequins must not be constructed of metal. Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) / 4-7 (boys), which exhibit sequins that are tacked at 5

points, do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag. Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrens apparel sizes 0-5T. For sizes 4 and up, riveted items are considered Press Fasteners, and must follow requirements

listed in section 4.3.1 Note: Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) / 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins, beads and jewels, rhinestones and metal studs, must include the small part choking hazard hangtag, as outlined in section 4.2. Appliqus & Embroidery Appliqus and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy, and in direct

contact with the skin. Interlinings used on childrens apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to create a

small parts hazard. Pom-Poms & Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting / sweater yarns are not permitted on

childrens apparel sizes 0-5T.

Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining. Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components. Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring, cord or tie with free ends.


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Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrens apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to easily

pull out. Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of children's wearing

apparel or accessories. Note: Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement.

Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted.

Note: Feathers contained within fabric, or filled, as in outerwear, are acceptable. 4.19 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns, or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments

designed for children 09M. Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrens apparel unless it is properly covered with

a backing. Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes per

square inch. Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrens apparel

sizes 0-5T.

Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrens apparel sizes

0-5T. 4.20 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrens Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrens plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC.


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5. Performance Specifications 5.1 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel

Test Description Test Method / Reference Performance Requirements

Labeling

Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489

Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation.

Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20, AATCC 20A

Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations, as applicable. 100% fabrications: 0.0 % Fiber content blends: 3.0 %

Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134

Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC and/or CBP, as applicable.

Manufacturers Identification

16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303

Must include a label identifying the manufacturers name, registered trademark or registered identification number, as applicable.

Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301

Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label, as applicable. Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act.

Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrens) 16 CFR Part 1610

Class 1-Note: assess and test non-exempt fabrics only

Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance. Childrens Sleepwear Flammability

16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance.

Fabric Qualities / Construction / Workmanship

Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects, such as stains, holes, slub yarns, missed stitches, or other fabric defects.

Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples

Construction / Workmanship Visual Evaluation

Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage. Hems should be straight, uniform and consistent. Loose threads should be properly trimmed. Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance.

pH

pH AATCC 81 Whites 5.5 7.0 Dyed 5.0 8.5


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General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)

Test Description Test Method / Reference Performance Requirements

Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrens garments where metal component is in contact with skin)

EN 1811 0.5 mg/cm2/week

Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrens apparel. Natural feather boas are not allowed. Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrens apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket).

Note: For products intended for children, refer to the section 4 covering Childrens Apparel. 5.2 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers / All Fabrications

Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking

All Fabrics / All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)

AATCC 8 AATCC 116 for prints

Dry: Grade 4.0 min Wet: Grade 3.0 min

Denims, tie dyes, dip dyes, pigment prints, raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics



Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deep/dark navy, green, burgundy, maroon, purple, brown, black and red)



Dark Indigo denim (rinse, wash) AATCC 8


Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 3.5 min Wet Grade 1.5 min


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All Fibers / All Fabrications (continued)

Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness

Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only)

AATCC 61 2A 1B for hand wash

Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Staining: Grade 3.0 min Self Staining Grade 4.5 min

Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)

AATCC 135 / 150 per care instructions

Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Staining: Grade 3.5 min Self Staining Grade 4.5 min

Home Laundering: Denims, sulfur dyes, tie dyes, dip dyes, pigment prints, raised fiber surfaces, pile fabrics, dark colorways* for plain surface fabrics.

AATCC 135 / 150 per care instructions

Shade Change: Grade 3.5 min Staining: Grade 3.0 min

Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine

AATCC TS-001

Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min

Dry cleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Self Staining: Grade 4.5 min

Light AATCC 16 Option 3

Outerwear: 20 AFU, Grade 3.5 Swimwear: Neons 10 AFU, Grade 2.0 All other fabrics 20 AFU, Grade 3.5

Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Staining: Grade 3.5 min Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107

Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Staining: Grade 3.5 min

Swimwear Only Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min

Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Staining: Grade 3.0 min

Water AATCC 107 Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Staining: Grade 3.0 min *Very deep/dark navy, green, burgundy, maroon, purple, brown, black and red

Note: For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel, refer to Section 5.5 Leather/Suede Apparel.


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5.3 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton, Linen, Ramie, Hemp, Jute and Blends (50% or more)

Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd OR g/sq m) ASTM D 3776

As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order ( 5.0 %).

Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order ( 5.0 %). Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing

Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)

AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions

WARP FILL Cotton & blends: +1.0 3.0% +1.0 3.0% Other Natural Cellulosics and blends: +1.0 3.0% +1.0 3.0% Stretch fabrics (w/Spandex): +1.0 3.0% +1.0 4.0% Corduroy/Flannel:+1.0 4.0% +1.0 4.0% Terry,Basket: +1.0 4.0% +1.0 4.0%

Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage, Commercial Dry cleaning (1 cycle)

AATCC 158 AATCC R-003

WARP FILL Cotton & blends: +1.0 2.5% +1.0 2.5% Other Natural Cellulosics & blends: +1.0 2.5% +1.0 2.5%

Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation

General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance.

Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1 3.0% Maximum


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Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate, Lyocell, Modal, Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose), Rayon from Bamboo, Triacetate, Viscose and Blends (50% or more)

Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities / Construction




Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)

AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC TS-006

-5% X -5% +1% X +1%



-5% X -5% +1% X +1%




Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic, Aramid, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene), Polyester, Spandex, Vinal, Vinyon and Blends (50% or more)



As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order ( 5.0 %)

Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order ( 5.0 %) Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing

Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)

AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions

Length: +1.0 3.0% Width: +1.0 3.0%



Length: +1.0 2.0% Width: +1.0 2.0%


General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage, or other changes that affect the appearance.


Note: 50% synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard.


43

Woven - Predominantly Silk, Wool, Animal Hair and Blends (50% or more)






AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions

WARP FILL Silk and Blends: +1.0 4.0% +1.0 4.0% Wool and Animal Hair Blends: +1.0 3.0% +1.0 3.0%



WARP FILL Silk and Blends: +1.0 2.5% +1.0 2.5% Wool and Animal Hair Blends: +1.0 2.0% +1.0 2.0%




Woven Denim



As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order ( 5.0 %)

Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order ( 5.0 %) Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing

Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)

AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions

WARP FILL +1.0 3.0% +1.0 3.0% +1.0 3.0% +1.0 3.0% Stretch +1.0 4.0% +1.0 4.0% Denim



WARP FILL +1.0 2.0% +1.0 2.0% +1.0 2.0% +1.0 2.0%



Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1 3% Maximum


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Woven - Physical Performance

Woven - All Fibers / All Fabrications (except as noted) all values are minimums

Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)

Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf < 2.5 oz/sq yd 20 15 2.5 - 4.3 oz/sq yd 30 20 4.4 - 7.3 oz/sq yd 40 30 7.3 oz/sq yd 50 40

Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)

Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf < 2.5 oz/sq yd 1.5 1.0 2.5 - 4.3 oz/sq yd 2.0 1.5 4.4 - 7.3 oz/sq yd 2.5 2.0 7.3 oz/sq yd 3.0 2.5

Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683

Weight Seam lbf * 5%, < 10%- measure growth and recovery after 30 minutes and report both-growth 5% maximum > 10%- Measure recovery after 60 seconds-85% minimum

Denim (all values are minimums)


TENSILE TEST - ASTM D 5034 (Grab) RINSE AND DARK WASH

Weight (oz/sq yd) lbf- (Warp X Weft)

Chambray Fabric < 4.5 oz - 6.0 30x20

Denim 6.1- 7.9 50x30 8 - 9.8 80x40

9.9 - 11.9 90x50 > 12 100x65

TENSILE TEST - ASTM D 5034 (Grab) STONE/ENZYME, BLEACH WASH

Weight lbf- (Warp X Weft)

Chambray Fabric < 4.5- 6.0 24X15

Denim 6.1- 7.9 30x20

8 - 9.8 40x30 9.9 - 11.9 50x40

> 12 60 X 50


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Tearing Strength

ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf) Weight < 8.0 oz/sq yd 8.0 - 9.8 oz/sq yd 9.9 - 11.9 oz/sq yd 12.0 oz/sq yd Warp lbf 3.0 3.5 4.0 5.0 Fill lbf 2.0 2.5 3.5 4.0

TEAR TEST - ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)

RINSE AND DARK WASH Weight lbf- (Warp X Weft)

Chambray Fabric < 4.5 oz 2.5 X 2 4.6 - 6.0 3.5 X 2.5

Denim 6.1- 7.9 4X3 8 - 9.8 5X3

9.9 - 11.9 5 X 4 > 12 6.5X5

TEAR TEST - ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf) STONE/ENZYME, BLEACH WASH

Weight lbf- (Warp X Weft)

Chambray Fabric < 4.5 oz 2X2

4.6 - 6.0 2X2

Denim

6.1- 7.9 2.5X2 8 - 9.8 3.5X2

9.9 - 11.9 3.5X2.5

> 12 4X3.2

Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683

Weight Seam lbf < 8.0 oz/sq yd 20.0 8.0 oz/sq yd 30.0

Woven- Physical Performance (continued)

Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy, Terrycloth, Velvet, Velveteen, Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel (all values are minimums)


Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf < 2.5 oz/sq yd 20.0 12.0 2.5 - 4.3 oz/sq yd 28.0 20.0 4.4 - 7.3 oz/sq yd 32.0 24.0 7.3 oz/sq yd 40.0 32.0

Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)

Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf


46

5.4 Knit Fabrics- Weft Knit Apparel

Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities / Construction

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd OR g/sq m)

ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order ( 5.0 %). Physical Performance (minimum)

Bursting Strength

ASTM D 3786

Weight psi < 100 g/sq m (< 3.0 oz/sq yd): 30 100 g/sq m ( 3.0 oz/sq yd): 35

Stretch and Recovery (Spandex)

ASTM 2594 modified

In Stretch Direction Only Elastic Fiber Content: 1-5%-measure growth after 30 minutes-7% maximum >5%, < 10%- measure growth and recovery after 30 minutes and report both-growth 5% maximum > 10%- Measure recovery after 60 seconds-85% minimum

Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention AATCC 135 / 150 / 158 (length / width)

(1 dry clean, 1 hand wash, or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types (Maximum shrinkage performance standards)

Fiber Content Jersey, Double

Knit Pique

Interlock Rib Knits

Fancy Knits,

Pointelle, Birds Eye, Jacquard

Thermal/ Waffle

Apparel

Fake Fur, Fleece,

French Terry, Velour, Terry

Predominantly Cotton, Linen, Ramie, Hemp or Jute (50% or more)

Length: 6.0 % Width: 6.0 %







Predominantly Acetate, Lyocell, Modal, Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50% or more)








Predominantly Acrylic, Aramid, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50% or more)








Predominantly Wool, Animal Hair or Silk (50% or more)

Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length: 6.0 % Width: 6.0 %

Hand Washing or Dry cleaning (1 cycle)


Note: 50% synthetic blended with any other fibers, use the synthetic standard.


47

Warp Knits

Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)

Visual Evaluation


Minimal Shrinkage Performance Claim / Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions

AATCC 150 Length: 4.0 % Width: 4.0 %

Minimal Shrinkage Performance Claim / Garment Unwashed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions


Dimensional Stability Growth (maximum) All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions


Skewing

Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1

Fabric: 5.0% Max Tops and Shorts: 4.0 % Max Skirts, Pants, Dresses, Sleepwear: 4.0 % Max




Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing (maximum) Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)


Plain Knits Lace, Net and Mesh Knits Length 5.0 % 5.0 % Width 5.0 % 5.0 %




Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)

AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003




Skewing

AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1

Fabric: 4.0 % Max Tops and Shorts: 4.0 % Max Skirts, Pants, Dresses, Sleepwear : 4.0 % Max

Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only) Snagging Resistance- Activewear/Sportswear fiber content polyester, polyester blends- spandex, nylon

ASTM D3939 Class 3.0


48

Sweater Knits, All Fiber Contents


Fabric Weight (lb/dz) ASTM D 3776


Wale/Course Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec.12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order ( 5.0 %). Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing (maximum)







Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)

AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003




Skewing (cotton sweaters only)

AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1 4.0 % Maximum


49

Knit Undergarments/Underwear

Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 / 150 (length / width)

(3 machine wash cycles) (Maximum)

Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal/ Waffle

Predominantly Cotton, Linen, Ramie, Hemp or Jute (50% or more)

Length: 14.0 % Width: 14.0 %

Length: 10.0 % Width: 10.0 %

Length: 9.0 %

Width: 9.0 %

Length: 10.0 % Width: 10.0 %

Predominantly Acetate, Lyocell, Modal, Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50% or more)

Length: 14.0 % Width: 14.0 %

Length: 10.0 % Width: 10.0 %

Length: 9.0 %

Width: 9.0 %


Predominantly Acrylic, Aramid, Modac

Documents

Walmart USA Apparel Quality Testing Manual - New … · Walmart USA Apparel Quality Testing Manual . ... internal testing, operator ... Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test